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Exploring Alexandria, Virginia | Where to Eat in Alexandria, Virginia | Where to Stay in Alexandria, Virginia

A short drive (or bike ride) from Washington, Alexandria provides a welcome break from the monuments and hustle and bustle of the District. Here you encounter America’s colonial heritage. Founded in 1749 by Scottish merchants eager to capitalize on the booming tobacco trade, Alexandria became one of the most important colonial ports and has been associated with the most significant personages of the colonial, Revolutionary, and Civil War periods. In Old Town this colorful past is revived through restored 18th- and 19th-century homes, churches, and taverns; on the cobbled streets; and on the revitalized waterfront, where clipper ships docked and artisans displayed their wares. Alexandria also has a wide variety of small- to medium-size restaurants and pubs, plus a wealth of boutiques and antiques dealers vying for your time and money.

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Getting Here and Around

Take either the George Washington Memorial Parkway or Jefferson Davis Highway (Route 1) south from Arlington to reach Alexandria. TIP Stop at the Alexandria Visitors Center at Ramsay House (221 King Street) for a 24-hour free parking permit good at any two-hour metered spot. You can get one even if you’re visiting from elsewhere in Virginia.

The King Street/Old Town Metro stop (about 25 minutes from Metro Center) is right next to the Masonic Memorial and a 10-block walk on King Street from the center of Old Town. TIP There’s a free King Street Trolley between the King Street station and the Torpedo Factory Art Center daily from 11:30 am to 10 pm.

Tours

Old Town Experience runs walking tours that leave from the Alexandria Visitors Center 10:30 am Monday through Saturday and 2 pm Sunday; tickets are $15. Another tour operator, Footsteps to the Past, also leads tours from the visitor center at 1:30 pm Monday through Saturday; tickets are $15. Alexandria Colonial Tours leads guided walks of historic Alexandria by reservation. Ghost-and-graveyard tours (reservations not required) are conducted Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights, although in summer you can also take a tour on Wednesday and Thursday nights. Tours are nightly in October. Specialty tours include African-American history and faith and heritage.

Essentials

Visitor Information

Alexandria Visitors Center.
Ramsay House, 221 King St. | 22314 | 703/746–3301, 800/388–9119 | www.visitalexandriava.com.

Exploring Alexandria, Virginia

Top Attractions

Appomattox Confederate Statue.
In 1861, when Alexandria was occupied by Union forces, the 800 soldiers of the city’s garrison marched out of town to join the Confederate Army. In the middle of Washington and Prince streets stands a statue marking the point where they assembled. In 1885 Confederate veterans proposed a memorial to honor their fallen comrades. This statue, based on John A. Elder’s painting Appomattox, is of a lone soldier glumly surveying the battlefields after General Robert E. Lee’s surrender. The names of 99 Alexandria Confederate dead are carved on the base. | Washington and Prince Sts., Old Town | 22314.

Boyhood Home of Robert E. Lee.
This childhood home of the commander of the Confederate forces of Virginia is a fine example of a 19th-century Federal town house. The house is privately owned and not open to visitors. | 607 Oronoco St., Old Town | 22314.

Carlyle House.
Alexandria forefather and Scottish merchant John Carlyle built this grand house, completed in 1753 and modeled on a country manor in the old country. Students of the French and Indian War will want to know that the dwelling served as General Braddock’s headquarters. The house retains its original 18th-century woodwork and is furnished with Chippendale furniture and Chinese porcelain. An architectural exhibit on the second floor explains how the house was built; outside there’s an attractive garden of colonial-era plants. | 121 N. Fairfax St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/549–2997 | www.carlylehouse.org | $5 | Tues.–Sat. 10–4, Sun. noon–4, guided tour every 1/2 hr.

Christ Church.
George Washington and Robert E. Lee were pew holders in this Episcopal church, which remains in nearly original condition. (Washington paid quite a lot of money for pews 59 and 60.) Built in 1773, this fine example of an English Georgian country-style church has a Palladian window, an interior balcony, and an English wrought-brass-and-crystal chandelier. Docents give tours during visiting hours. | 118 N. Washington St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/549–1450 | www.historicchristchurch.org | $5 donation suggested | Mon.–Sat. 10–4, Sun. 8:45–1.

Gadsby’s Tavern Museum.
The two buildings that now make up this museum—a circa-1785 tavern and the 1792 City Hotel—were centers of political and social life. George Washington celebrated his birthdays in the ballroom. Other noted patrons included Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, and the Marquis de Lafayette. The taproom, dining room, assembly room, ballroom, and communal bedrooms have been restored to their original appearance. | 134 N. Royal St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/746–4242 | www.gadsbystavern.org | $5 | Nov.–Mar., Wed.–Thurs. and Sat. 11–4, Fri. 11–4 and 7–9:30, Sun. 1–4, last tour at 3:45; Apr.–Oct., daily 10–5, , last tour at 4:45; tours 15 mins before and after the hour.

George Washington Masonic Memorial.
Because Alexandria, like Washington, D.C., has no really tall buildings, the spire of this memorial dominates the surroundings and is visible for miles. The building overlooks King and Duke streets, Alexandria’s major east–west arteries. Reaching the memorial requires a respectable uphill climb from the King St. Metrorail and bus stations. From the ninth-floor observation deck (reached by elevator) you get a spectacular view of Alexandria and Washington, but access above the first and mezzanine floors is by guided tour only. The building contains furnishings from the first Masonic lodge in Alexandria. George Washington became a Mason in 1752 in Fredericksburg, and became charter master of the Alexandria lodge when it was chartered in 1788, remaining active in Masonic affairs during his tenure as president, 1789–97. | 101 Callahan Dr., Old Town | 22314 | 703/683–2007 | www.gwmemorial.org | $5; $8 guided tour (includes observation deck) | Daily 9–4; 1-hr guided tour of building and observation deck daily at 10, 11:30, 1:30, and 3.

Lee-Fendall House.
At historic Lee Corner at North Washington and Oronoco streets, the Lee-Fendall House was built in 1785; over the course of the next 118 years it was home to 37 members of the Lee family and served as a Union hospital. The house and its furnishings, of the 1850–70 period, present an intimate study of 19th-century family life. Highlights include a splendid collection of Lee heirlooms, period pieces produced by Alexandria manufacturers, and the beautifully restored, award-winning garden. | 614 Oronoco St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/548–1789 | $5 | Wed.–Sat. 10–4; Sun. 1–4; sometimes closed for private events.

Lyceum.
Built in 1839 and one of Alexandria’s best examples of Greek Revival design, the Lyceum is also the city’s official history museum. Over the years the building has served as the Alexandria Library, a Civil War hospital, a residence, and offices. Restored in the 1970s for the Bicentennial, it has an impressive collection including examples of 18th- and 19th-century silver, tools, stoneware, and Civil War photographs taken by Mathew Brady. | 201 S. Washington St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/838–4994 | www.alexandriahistory.org | $2 donation suggested | Mon.–Sat. 10–5, Sun. 1–5.

Ramsay House.
The best place to start a tour of Alexandria’s Old Town is at the Alexandria Visitors Center at Ramsay House, the home of the town’s first postmaster and lord mayor, William Ramsay. The unusually helpful staff hands out brochures, maps for self-guided walking tours, and 24-hour permits for free parking at any two-hour metered spot. You can also use a free computer station to plan your travels. | 221 King St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/746–3301, 800/388–9119 | wwwvisitalexandriava.com | Guided tours $10–$15 | Jan.–Mar. daily 10–5; Apr.–Dec. daily 10-8; tours Mon.–Sat. 10:30 and 1:30, Sun. 2.

Torpedo Factory Art Center.
Torpedoes were manufactured here by the U.S. Navy during World War II. Now the building houses the studios and workshops of about 160 artists and artisans. You can observe printmakers, jewelry makers, sculptors, painters, and potters as they create original work in their studios. The Torpedo Factory also houses the Alexandria Archaeology Museum, which displays artifacts such as plates, cups, pipes, and coins from an early tavern, and Civil War soldiers’ equipment. If digging interests you, call to sign up for the well-attended public digs (offered once a month from June to October). | 105 N. Union St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/838–4565 | www.torpedofactory.org | Free | daily 10–6, Thurs. 10–9.

Worth Noting

Alexandria Black History Museum.
This museum, devoted to the history of African-Americans in Alexandria and Virginia, is at the site of the Robert H. Robinson Library, a building constructed in the wake of a landmark 1939 sit-in protesting the segregation of Alexandria libraries. The federal census of 1790 recorded 52 free African-Americans living in the city, but the port town was one of the largest slave exporting points in the South, with at least two highly active slave markets. | 902 Wythe St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/838–4356 | www.alexblackhistory.org | $2 | Tues.–Sat. 10–4.

Athenaeum.
One of the most noteworthy structures in Alexandria, this striking Greek Revival edifice at the corner of Prince and Lee streets stands out from its many redbrick Federal neighbors. Built in 1852 as a bank (Robert E. Lee had an account here) and later used as a Union commissary headquarters, then as a talcum powder factory for the Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary, the Athenaeum now houses the gallery of the Northern Virginia Fine Arts Association. The Washington School of Ballet also offers dance classes here. This block of Prince Street between Fairfax and Lee streets is known as Gentry Row, after the 18th- and 19th-century inhabitants of its imposing three-story houses. | 201 Prince St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/548–0035 | www.nvfaa.org | Free | Thurs., Fri., Sun. noon–4, Sat. 1–4.

Captain’s Row.
Many of Alexandria’s sea captains once lived on this block, which gives visitors the truest sense of what the city looked like in the 1800s. The stone pavement is not original, but nicely replicates the stones laid down during the Revolution, taken from ships sailing to America and used to balance the vessels during the passage. | Prince St. between Lee and Union Sts., Old Town | 22314.

Friendship Fire House.
Alexandria’s showcase firehouse dates from 1855 and is filled with typical 19th-century implements, but the resident Friendship Fire Company was established in 1774 and bought its first engine in 1775. Among early fire engines on display is a hand pumper built in Philadelphia in 1851. Most everything can be seen through the windows even when the firehouse is closed. | 107 S. Alfred St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/746–3891 | oha.alexandriava.gov/friendship | Suggested donation $2 | Sat. and Sun. 1–4.

Lloyd House.
A fine example of Georgian architecture, Lloyd House was built in 1797 and is owned by the City of Alexandria and used for offices for the Office of Historic Alexandria. The interior has nothing on display so it is best admired from outside. | 220 N. Washington St., Old Town | 22314.

Old Presbyterian Meeting House.
Except from 1899 through 1949, the Old Presbyterian Meeting House has been the site of an active Presbyterian congregation since 1775. Scottish pioneers founded the church, and Scottish patriots used it as a gathering place during the Revolution. Four memorial services were held for George Washington here. The tomb of an unknown soldier of the American Revolution lies in a corner of the small churchyard, where many prominent Alexandrians—including Dr. James Craik, physician and best friend to Washington, and merchant John Carlyle—are interred. The original sanctuary was rebuilt after a lightning strike and fire in 1835. The interior is appropriately plain; if you’d like to visit the sanctuary you can borrow a key in the church office, or just peek through the many wide windows along both sides. | 321 S. Fairfax St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/549–6670 | www.opmh.org | Free | Weekdays 8:15–4:15.

Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary.
Once patronized by Martha Washington and the Lee family, the Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary is among the oldest apothecaries in the country (the reputed oldest is in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania). Some believe that it was here, on October 17, 1859, that Lt. Col. Robert E. Lee received orders to lead Marines sent from the Washington Barracks to help suppress John Brown’s insurrection at Harpers Ferry (then part of Virginia). The shop now houses a museum of apothecary memorabilia, including one of the finest collections of apothecary bottles in the country. In fact, they have so many that curators are still processing them all. TIP Tours include discussions of Alexandria life and medicine, as well as the history of the family that owned and ran the shop for 141 years. Tours designed especially for children are available. | 105–107 S. Fairfax St., Old Town | 22314 | 703/746–3852 | www.apothecarymuseum.org | $5 | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sat. 10–5, Sun. and Mon. 1–5; Nov.–Mar., Wed.–Sat. 11–4, Sun. 1–4.

Where to Eat in Alexandria, Virginia

More than 50 restaurants participate in Alexandria’s biannual restaurant weeks in January and August, offering either a three-course meal for $35 or dinner for two at $35.

Eamonn’s A Dublin Chipper.
$ | IRISH | A nod to his native Ireland, this fish-and-chips joint is Chef Cathal Armstrong’s latest addition to his growing Old Town Alexandria empire—he also runs the acclaimed Restaurant Eve and Majestic Café. This 20-seat, counter-service chipper-with-attitude serves up crispy cod and fries with your choice of seven different sauces from classic tartar to curry. Down it with a pint of Guinness or an Irish soda and finish with a piping hot fried Mars bar, a weird-but-wonderful dessert that’s the perfect end to a battered meal. TIP When the pirate flag is flying and a blue light glows at an unmarked door, head upstairs to the PX, a 21st-century speakeasy operated by Armstrong and his wife. | Average main: $10 | 728 King St. | Arlington | 22314 | 703/299–8384 | www.eamonnsdublinchipper.com.

Las Tapas.
$$$ | SPANISH | A big, bright, authentic Spanish restaurant, Las Tapas specializes in, what else? There are 59 tapas on the menu, such as tortilla espanola, plus substantial entreés, including five kinds of paella. Indeed, Paella Valenciana is the signature dish in this friendly restaurant. Order a jug of the red, white, or specialty sangrias to accompany your meal. Then sit back and watch the flamenco dancers, who perform Tuesday through Thursday nights; Friday and Saturday nights bring Spanish guitar music. | Average main: $30 | 710 King St. | 22314 | 703/836–4000 | www.lastapas.us.

Le Refuge.
$$ | FRENCH | At this local favorite, run by Jean François and his wife Françoise for 25 years, enjoy lovingly prepared, authentic French country fare with beaucoup flavor; popular selections include trout, bouillabaisse, garlicky rack of lamb, frogs’ legs, and beef Wellington. Polish it all off with an order of profiteroles or crème brûlée. | Average main: $25 | 127 N. Washington St. | 22314 | 703/548–4661 | www.lerefugealexandria.com | Closed Sun.

Majestic Café.
$$ | AMERICAN | An art deco facade remains, but the stylish interior brings a modern sensibility to a 1930s-era landmark. The cooking style is rustic American, with an emphasis on simplicity, seasonal products, and comfort food—home-style meat loaf and mashed potatoes, Amish chicken two ways, and fried green tomatoes with burrata cheese and basil puree. On Sunday, in addition to the regular menu, the café offers a special family-style dinner for $22 per person, including dessert. Themes for these dinners include “Summer Lovin’” and “The Harvest.” The Majestic is about eight blocks from the Metrorail. | Average main: $25 | 911 King St. | 22314 | 703/837–9117 | www.majesticcafe.com | Station: King St.

Rocklands.
$ | BARBECUE | This homegrown barbecue stop is known for its flavorful pork ribs smoked over hickory and red oak. Sides like silky corn pudding, rich mac ’n’ cheese, and crunchy slaw are as good as the meats, which cover everything from beef brisket and chopped pork barbecue to chicken and fish. The family crowd comes for dinner, but the place also does takeout. There is another branch in Arlington at 3471 Washington Boulevard. | Average main: $16 | 25 S. Quaker La. | 22314 | 703/778–9663 | www.rocklands.com.

Taverna Cretekou.
$$$ | MODERN GREEK | Whitewashed stucco walls and colorful macramé tapestries bring a bit of the Mediterranean to the center of Old Town. On the menu are exohikon (lamb baked in a pastry shell) and fish sautéed with artichokes, and the extensive wine list includes only Greek choices, such as the special Taverna Cretekou made near Kalamata. In warm weather you can dine in the canopied garden. TIP Thursday evenings bring live music, and if you are so moved, plates for breaking are free for the asking—opa! A buffet brunch is served on Sunday. | Average main: $27 | 818 King St. | 22314 | 703/548–8688 | www.tavernacretekou.com | Closed Mon.

Vermilion.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Be sure to make reservations because foodies flock here for a taste of Chef Anthony Chittum’s award-winning modern American menu. This upscale establishment puts an emphasis on the casual with its exposed brick walls, ceiling beams, and gas lamps. Chittum favors locally sourced, sustainable ingredients, though quality trumps local here so you may find an Alaskan halibut on this Mid-Atlantic menu alongside a braised short ribs and caramelized onion crespelle. Vermilion is also one of the area’s favorite weekend brunch spots. Tuesday and Wednesday evenings bring live music to the first-floor lounge. | Average main: $37 | 1120 King St. | 22314 | 703/684–9669 | www.vermilionrestaurant.com | No lunch on Tues.

Where to Stay in Alexandria, Virginia

Embassy Suites Old Town Alexandria.
$$ | HOTEL | Adjacent to Alexandria’s landmark George Washington Masonic Memorial, this all-suites hotel sits across the street from the Metro station and around the corner from the Amtrak station. A free shuttle is available to transport you to the scenic Alexandria riverfront, which has shops and restaurants. The cooked-to-order breakfast is complimentary, as is the cocktail reception every evening. There’s also a playroom for children. Pros: large rooms; across from Metro station. Cons: outside city; small pool that is often crowded; popular with school groups. TripAdvisor: “always good,” “worked for us,” “great location.” | Rooms from: $269 | 1900 Diagonal Rd. | Old Town | 22314 | 703/684–5900, 800/362–2779 | Breakfast.

Hotel Monaco Alexandria.
$$$ | HOTEL | There’s a fine line between history and modernity in Old Town Alexandria, and Hotel Monaco reflects that spirit in luxurious guestrooms where traditonal Americana takes on a sharp, contemporary look. Teal woodwork and overstuffed couches make the lobby an inviting place for a complimentary cup of coffee or glass of wine. Pros: central location to Old Town sights; guests enjoy a complimentary wine happy hour in the lobby between 5 and 6. Cons: thin walls mean you might hear conversations in adjoining rooms or barking dogs in the hallway. TripAdvisor: “service and comfort,” “a beautiful hotel,” “great location and fancy rooms.” | Rooms from: $299 | 480 King St. | 22314 | 703/549–6080 | www.monaco-alexandria.com | 241 rooms, 10 suites | No meals | Station: King St.

Morrison House.
$$$ | HOTEL | The architecture, parquet floors, crystal chandeliers, decorative fireplaces, and furnishings here are so faithful to the Federal period (1790–1820) that the hotel is often mistaken for a renovation rather than what it is: a structure built from scratch in 1985. Some rooms have fireplaces and four-poster beds, and all come with bathrobes and a pack of fresh-baked cookies on your pillow. The highly regarded Grille restaurant serves American contemporary cuisine. Pros: in the heart of Old Town, about a 15-minute walk from the train and Metrorail stations; modern building with historic charm. Cons: can be a little pricey; fireplaces are decorative only. TripAdvisor: “great service,” “perfection,” “friendly staff and a clean room.” | Rooms from: $299 | 116 S. Alfred St. | 22314 | 703/838–8000, 800/367–0800 | www.morrisonhouse.com | 42 rooms, 3 suites | No meals | Station: King St.

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