When Dennis Kum taught himself to cook at age nine the reason was simple: “I didn’t like my mom’s cooking,” he says. From an early age, Dennis gravitated to Asian cuisine. “We don’t have that in my house. My parents are actually from South America—Guyana—so I grew up eating curry, dal soup (which is like a split pea soup), pepper pot (which is like an oxtail stew). When I first went out to a Chinese restaurant, wow, this tasted really good.” Dennis went to the library and checked out a stack of Chinese cookbooks. “I went and got the books, and I was cooking my own General Tso’s Chicken at home.” Soon he was making dinner for the whole family. “I got really fat. Really, really fat,” he says with a laugh.
These days, Dennis cooks for a much bigger crowd aboard Big D’s Grub Truck, a school bus–yellow food truck that takes its name from Dennis’s longtime nickname. When Kogi BBQ hit the streets of Los Angeles in late 2008, offering Korean-Mexican fusion cuisine like short rib tacos and kimchi quesadillas, food lovers across the country took notice. The Kogi phenomenon didn’t escape Dennis’s attention. He’d long been playing with Asian flavors in unconventional dishes and quickly dreamed up a menu that would feature Korean-esque beef, chicken, and pork tacos that could also be served up pseudo-banh mi–style as hefty grinders. Rounding out the menu is a mix of Asian, Latin, and Southern sides ranging from Old Bay–or Sazón- seasoned crinkle cut fries to pork and chive dumplings to fried yucca with a Sriracha-infused dipping sauce. “They didn’t have anything in New York at the time. I was actually scheduled to open in September [2010], and then I had some delays. The truck was actually sitting in the lot all done for three-and-a-half months. And then Korilla came out.” Being first to market, Korilla took the bragging rights of introducing Korean tacos in New York, but Dennis doesn’t mind. He sees himself as more of a fusion truck than solely a Korean taco truck.
Dennis developed the recipes for the truck in his own kitchen, testing and honing them at dinner parties. Friends were invited to come and eat, but there was a catch—they had to bring a bottle. “I get to cook, you get to enjoy it, and we can all get drunk,” Dennis says. As much as Dennis loves the spicy pork and the fries—“I’m always picking at the fries, it’s just right there”—he’s careful not to indulge all the time. With that in mind, Dennis developed their ginger chicken recipe as an alternative for customers looking for a healthier street food lunch. The tender grilled chicken is dressed in ginger sauce instead of mayo, then served with plenty of fresh chopped cilantro.
Dennis loves the interaction with regular customers. “I like when they come back—you know their names, you know their orders. It just feels really good. “Big D’s fans are loyal and dedicated. “There are a few customers that actually if the weather is nice they’ll take the train down. They’ll come down to FiDi, they’ll come down to Flatiron … one time they took a cab.” Dennis loves the immediate reaction from the customers. “This guy came down from his office just to tell me how much he enjoyed it.”
At times the crowds can be overwhelming. “Certain areas—we’ve been doing the World Financial Center—they’re not used to waiting outside for their food, so they get very impatient. I’m looking at them and I feel bad. Me as an owner at the window, it’s like sometimes I don’t want to look. I’d rather be in the back because my stress level is through the roof.” The lunch rush at the WFC is massive. Just how busy is the truck? Here’s what they got through in a typical day: “85 orders of dumplings, 8 bags of fries, 40 pounds of bulgogi, 32 pounds of spicy pork, 60 pounds of chicken thighs, 110 sandwiches, 2 cases of tortillas—that’s WFC in two hours. They come in one shot. By 1:30, it’s dead.”
“I like what I do, except for the whole parking hassle.”
Adapted from Dennis Kum’s recipe
Sweet, salty, and spicy—not to mention crispy from the little fried cheesy bits—these pancakes hit so many satisfaction points, you’ll find yourself going in for a second helping. Unlike regular pancakes these don’t need any syrup. On the truck Dennis serves them with a side of strawberry jam, but they’re perfect on their own. This recipe calls for two types of cornmeal. Masa harina is treated with lime and is different from regular yellow cornmeal, it’s typically found in the international aisle at grocery stores or grouped in with Latino specialty items. This recipe requires both. You can’t substitute one for the other.
¾ cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup masa harina
¼ cup cornmeal
cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder pinch of salt
1 cup whole milk
2 large eggs
¼ cup vegetable oil, plus more for oiling the pan
1 cup canned corn, drained
cup canned jalapeño peppers, chopped
2 cups cheddar cheese, shredded
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, masa harina, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Set aside. Blend milk, eggs, and oil in a small bowl. Pour the milk mixture into the flour mixture and mix with a large spoon until incorporated, then stir in corn until just incorporated. Heat a large, lightly oiled griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. When the griddle is hot, pour the batter onto the heated surface 
cup at a time. Once pancakes begins to bubble, sprinkle each with jalapeños and ¼ cup cheese. Brown for 1 or 2 minutes on each side. If cakes are browning too fast, turn down the heat a little. Serve immediately.
