Oleg Voss discovered his culinary passions young during his high school days in Paris, yet he still tried to have a career in the supposedly more stable finance industry. In late 2007, he had a fleeting idea to open a schnitzel food truck in New York, but his career was about to take him to a position in Vienna. Then after the 2008 international banking meltdown, Oleg soon found himself jobless and headed back to New York. A Ukrainian immigrant himself, his family had come here soon after the Iron Curtain fell, and he’s certainly known rougher times. He decided to use his culinary degree from the renowned French Culinary Institute rather than get back into finance and opened Schnitzel & Things in 2009, despite his lack of experience in running a small business. “We’re a unique truck with a very different menu. We’re the only ones doing this.” And that worked to their advantage.
Shortly after the opening, people sought out Schnitzel & Things because not only were there delicious creations being served up by Oleg (with help from his mother’s recipes), but also you were served one of the most generous portions around town. Regulars came to expect their schnitzel of choice pounded thin, covered with Japanese panko breadcrumbs, and fried fresh to order, to be a plate of meat atop various vinegary salad sides of their choosing. A regular platter is big enough to induce a late afternoon nap. Even when a fan won free schnitzel for a month and ate at the truck every day, their generosity continued after the month was up. “I thought they would make me pay, but they were like, ‘whatever, here you go.’” Opening a brick-and-mortar shop was always in the works and happened in spring 2011. Most days, you can find Oleg’s mom working the stove in the back, making sure the customers are getting some of the most delicious Eastern European food around, including their take on traditional Austrian potato salad.
“Best experience of my life. We’re doing something right.”
Adapted from Oleg Voss’s recipe
Schnitzel is one of the most traditional Austrian dishes and here Oleg has added Japanese breadcrumbs, making it even crunchier than before. Don’t be shy when pounding out your pork filets with a mallet—you want your pork to get as thin as possible.
2 pork loin filets (about 5 ounces each)
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg
2 tablespoons whole milk
¼ cup dry panko (Japanese) breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons canola oil
Using a meat mallet or pounder, flatten the pork loin filets between 2 sheets of plastic wrap.
You will need 3 shallow bowls. In the first, combine the flour, salt, and pepper. In the second, combine the egg and milk, and then put the breadcrumbs in the third.
Coat the pork with the flour, then dip into the milk-egg mixture, and finally into the bread-crumbs, turning to coat.
In a large skillet on high heat, add the oil and add one pork schnitzel, frying each for approximately 2 minutes per side, or until cooked through. Serve immediately.
Adapted from Oleg Voss’s recipe
WARNING: This is not your mama’s potato salad—unless your mama is from Salzburg. While classic American potato salad recipes tend to be chilled and mayonnaise-intensive, Austrian potato salad is served warm in a tangy vinaigrette. This difference makes perfect for summer picnics when refrigeration is not possible.
3 pounds Yukon potatoes, sliced in thin rounds
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 shallots, peeled and finely diced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
6 springs fresh flat parsley, coarsely chopped
salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Add potatoes to a large pot and cover with water. Boil until tender, about 10 minutes.
In a small bowl whisk together olive oil, white wine vinegar, lemon juice, shallots, and garlic.
In a large bowl or serving dish dress potatoes with vinaigrette and sprinkle with parsley. Season with salt and ground black pepper to taste. It’s ready to go once made and still warm, but can be eaten cold. Store in an airtight container in the fridge.