RISOTTOS

In Italy, risotto has always been the staple food of the northern regions, where rice fields dominate the flat plains of the Po Valley. In traditional northern Italian families, a plate of risotto is served as a primo (starter) in place of pasta. It’s strange – although I was brought up in the south, where pasta ruled, my mother would often cook a type of risotto with plenty of vegetables, especially on the days when she was busy and didn’t have time to cook a lot.

Like pasta, risotto is nutritious, versatile, simple to prepare and quick to cook, often all in one pot! And, like pasta, if your cupboard is bare, a simple, basic risotto with butter and Parmesan makes nourishing comfort food. You can really add whatever ingredients you like to a risotto – my favourite is probably one with lots of veggies. The base of the risotto is usually made simply with a little finely chopped onion, and then I like to add whatever veggies I have – our family favourites are carrots and peas, which we always have in.

Risotto can also be made to impress, turning this humble grain into a meal fit for a king. Adding a little truffle butter or oil topped with shavings of truffle can be a real treat. Risotto rice goes so well with this highly prized fungus that in the regions of Italy where it is found – Piemonte, Umbria, Tuscany – it is quite normal to see this dish on the menus of local restaurants and trattorias.

The secret to a good risotto is the rice. Don’t try to make risotto with any old rice because it just won’t work. Try to buy the best you can afford – Italian delis will stock Carnaroli, Vialone Nano or a good Arborio. These short-grain varieties absorb liquid and release starch, making them ideal for creamy risottos. A good stock is important too, and I find a high-quality ready-made stock (bouillon) cube, or a ‘stock pot’ diluted in hot water, perfectly adequate. Once made, keep the stock hot by placing it in a pan over a low heat and gradually add a ladle or two at a time to the risotto, allowing the rice to absorb the liquid before adding more. Keep the heat under the risotto on low–medium and keep stirring all the time with a wooden spoon, to avoid the rice sticking to the bottom of the pan. Once cooked, take off the heat and beat in butter and Parmesan, if appropriate to the recipe, to give the risotto that extra creaminess.

RISOTTO CAPRESE

RISOTTO WITH TOMATO, MOZZARELLA AND BASIL

The ingredients for this risotto are taken from the classic Caprese salad – tomatoes, mozzarella and basil. Simple to make and extremely tasty, it’s often my go-to midweek meal for the family.

Cooking time: 30 minutes

Serves 4

40 g/1½ oz/2 generous tbsp butter

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 handfuls of basil leaves

260 g/9¼ oz cherry tomatoes, quartered

320 g/11¼ oz/1¾ cups risotto (Arborio) rice

100 ml/3½ fl oz/7 tbsp white wine

1.5 litres/52 fl oz/6½ cups hot vegetable stock (bouillon)

200 g/7 oz mozzarella, cut into small cubes

30 g/1 oz/⅓ cup grated Parmesan

Heat 20 g/¾ oz/1 generous tablespoon of butter and the olive oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the onion and a couple of the basil leaves and sweat for 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and continue to sweat for 1 minute. Stir in the rice, making sure each grain is coated in oil. Add the wine and cook until the rice has absorbed it. Then add a couple of ladles of hot stock, stirring with a wooden spoon until the rice has absorbed it all. Add a couple more ladles of stock and continue to cook in this way, stirring and adding more stock, for 17–20 minutes, until the risotto is cooked al dente.

Remove from the heat and add the remaining butter and mozzarella, stirring well until it has nicely melted into the risotto. Stir in the grated Parmesan and remaining basil leaves and serve immediately.

RISOTTO FESTIVO

CELEBRATION RISOTTO WITH PROSECCO, PRAWNS AND SCALLOPS

The perfect risotto for a special occasion! After you’ve added the prosecco into the risotto, have some glasses at the ready and share it among your guests. It’s such an easy dish to make that you too can afford to indulge in a glass while cooking! When adding the butter at the end, known in Italian as mantecare (‘to cook until creamy’), be careful not to mix too vigorously, to avoid the seafood breaking up. It won’t affect the flavour, but it does look prettier to have the seafood whole when serving.

Cooking time: 30 minutes

Serves 4

40 g/1½ oz/2 generous tbsp butter, plus an extra knob (pat) to serve

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

2 shallots, finely chopped

320 g/11¼ oz/1¾ cups risotto (Arborio) rice

125 ml/4 fl oz/½ cup prosecco

1.3 litres/44 fl oz/5½ cups hot vegetable stock (bouillon)

12 scallops

12 king prawns (jumbo shrimp)

a handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped

Heat the butter and olive oil in a large saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the shallots and sweat for 1 minute. Stir in the rice, making sure each grain is coated in oil. Add the prosecco, increase the heat and allow the alcohol to evaporate. Then add a couple of ladles of hot stock, stirring with a wooden spoon until the rice has absorbed it all. Add a couple more ladles of stock and continue to cook in this way, stirring and adding more stock, for 17–20 minutes, until the risotto is cooked al dente. About 5 minutes before the end of the cooking time, stir in the scallops and king prawns. Remove from the heat, mix in the extra knob of butter and the parsley, and serve with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

RISOTTO AI CALAMARI E ZAFFERANO

CALAMARI AND SAFFRON RISOTTO

This risotto makes a lovely meal at any time and the saffron gives it a nice yellow colour. The addition of lightly toasted pine nuts gives the dish a nice crunch, contrasting with the soft calamari (squid). I like to add a pinch of dried chilli (hot red pepper) flakes to mine, to give it an extra kick!

Cooking time: 25–30 minutes (not including prep)

Serves 4

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

2 small shallots, finely chopped

400 g/14 oz calamari (squid), sliced into rings

320 g/11¼ oz/1¾ cups risotto (Arborio) rice

150 ml/5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cup white wine

1.5 litres/52 fl oz/6½ cups hot vegetable stock (bouillon)

a few saffron strands, diluted in a little of the vegetable stock

30 g/1 oz/2 tbsp butter

a handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped

50 g/1¾ oz/⅓ cup pine nuts (optional)

2 tsp dried chilli flakes (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan set over a high heat, add the shallots and sweat for 1 minute, then add the calamari and stir-fry for 4 minutes. Stir in the rice, making sure each grain is coated in oil. Add the wine and cook until the rice has absorbed it. Reduce the heat to medium and add a couple of ladles of hot stock, stirring with a wooden spoon until the rice has absorbed it all. Add a couple more ladles of stock and continue to cook in this way, stirring and adding more stock, for about 20 minutes, until the rice is al dente.

Remove from the heat, add the diluted saffron strands, butter and parsley, and mix well.

Heat a small frying pan (skillet), add the pine nuts and cook for 1 minute or so until toasted.

Divide the risotto between 4 bowls, top with the toasted pine nuts and chilli flakes, if desired, and add a final drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil to serve.

RISOTTO AL ZAFFERANO CON PORCINI SECCHI

SAFFRON RISOTTO WITH DRIED PORCINI

This traditional Milanese classic, with the addition of dried porcini mushrooms, is delicious and a must for any mushroom lover. In season, you could make this dish with fresh porcini, but dried are so easily obtainable from Italian delis and supermarkets that I always keep a packet in my store cupboard.

Cooking time: 35 minutes

Serves 4

50 g/1¾ oz/⅓ cup dried porcini mushrooms

a couple of saffron strands

1 small onion

2 generous tbsp butter

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

320 g/11¼ oz/1¾ cups risotto (Arborio) rice

100 ml/3½ oz/7 tbsp white wine

1.5 litres/52 fl oz/6½ cups hot vegetable stock (bouillon)

50 g/1¾ oz/¾ cup grated Parmesan, plus extra for serving

Soak the dried porcini and saffron strands in a little warm water and set aside for about 10 minutes, for the porcini to soften.

Meanwhile, finely chop the onion and prepare the other ingredients.

Heat 1 generous tbsp of butter and the olive oil in a medium, heavy-based saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the onion and sweat for a couple of minutes. Stir in the softened porcini (keep the soaking liquid) and stir-fry for 1 minute. Stir in the rice, making sure each grain is coated in oil. Add the white wine and the reserved porcini soaking liquid and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the liquid has been absorbed by the rice. Add a couple of ladles of hot stock and cook, continuously stirring, until absorbed. Continue adding stock and cooking in this way for 17–20 minutes, until the risotto is cooked al dente.

Remove from the heat, mix in the remaining butter and grated Parmesan and serve immediately, with an extra grating of Parmesan, if desired.

RISOTTO DI CAROTA E SEDANO RAPA

CARROT AND CELERIAC RISOTTO

Carrot and celeriac is a match made in heaven and is one of my partner Liz’s favourite food combinations. In fact, she came up with this idea for a risotto when we had some leftover celeriac and we have been making it ever since – we now purposely buy celeriac to make this dish! Grating the vegetables not only makes them quick to cook, but helps them mush nicely into the risotto. This makes a perfect one-pot meal for a mid-week family supper.

Cooking time: 30 minutes (not including veg prep)

Serves 4

50 g/1¾ oz/3½ tbsp butter

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and grated

200 g/7 oz celeriac, peeled and grated (weight after prep)

340 g/11¾ oz/scant 2 cups risotto (Arborio) rice

100 ml/3½ fl oz/7 tbsp white wine

1.5 litres/52 fl oz/6½ cups hot vegetable stock (bouillon)

40 g/1½ oz/generous ½ cup grated Parmesan, plus extra for serving

a handful of parsley, finely chopped

Heat 25 g/1 oz/1½ tablespoons of butter and the olive oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the onion, carrots and celeriac and sweat for 4–5 minutes. Stir in the rice, making sure each grain is coated in oil. Add the wine and cook until the rice has absorbed it. Then add a couple of ladles of hot stock, stirring with a wooden spoon until the rice has absorbed it all. Add a couple more ladles of stock and continue to cook in this way, stirring and adding more stock, for 17–20 minutes, until the risotto is cooked al dente.

Remove from the heat, add the remaining butter and Parmesan, and mix well with a wooden spoon. Stir in the parsley and serve immediately, with an extra sprinkling of Parmesan, if desired.

RISOTTO CON LENTICCHIE

LENTIL RISOTTO

This is a super, nutritious one-pot meal. Try to get Castelluccio lentils from Umbria, which should be available from good Italian delis. Not only do they cook quickly, but they taste delicious. If you can’t get them, then use small brown or green lentils that don’t require pre-soaking. If you are really pressed for time, use good-quality organic canned lentils, which, once drained, you can add about halfway through making the risotto.

Cooking time: 30–35 minutes

Serves 4–6

250 g/9 oz/1½ cups Castelluccio lentils

40 g/1½ oz/2 generous tbsp butter

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

100 g/3½ oz pancetta, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, left whole

1 rosemary sprig

1 celery stick, finely chopped

1 carrot, finely chopped

100 g/3½ oz canned chopped tomatoes

250 g/9 oz/1½ cups risotto (Arborio) rice

1.5 litres/52 fl oz/6½ cups hot vegetable stock (bouillon)

30 g/1 oz/scant ½ cup grated Parmesan, plus extra for serving

Place the lentils in a saucepan, cover with water, bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 20 g/¾ oz/1 generous tablespoon of butter and the olive oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan set over a high heat. Add the pancetta and sauté for 2 minutes, then reduce the heat to medium, add the garlic, rosemary, celery and carrot and sweat for 4 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and cook for about 3 minutes.

By this time the lentils should be cooked. Drain the lentils and add to the mixture in the pan. Stir in the rice, making sure each grain is coated in oil. Add a couple of ladles of hot stock, stirring with a wooden spoon until the rice has absorbed it all. Add a couple more ladles of stock and continue to cook in this way, stirring and adding more stock, for 17–20 minutes, until the rice is al dente and the lentils are cooked.

Remove from the heat, discard the garlic, if you like, then stir in the remaining butter and Parmesan. Serve immediately with extra grated Parmesan, if desired.

RISOTTO CON VONGOLE E PEPERONI MISTI

RISOTTO WITH CLAMS AND MIXED PEPPERS

For this recipe, I urge you to get the freshest and best clams you can; the liquid exuded from them gives the risotto its rich, delicious flavour. For speed, you can buy ready-sliced mixed peppers. The resulting dish is a colourful feast for the eyes and treat for the palate. A lovely dish to serve for a relaxed supper with friends, it is perfectly accompanied by a cold, crisp white wine such as a Greco di Tufo from Campania, or a Lugana from Lake Garda.

Cooking time: 35 minutes

Serves 4

1 kg/2 lb 4 oz clams

300 ml/10½ fl oz/1¼ cups white wine

1 garlic clove, left whole

a handful of parsley, finely chopped, with a few sprigs reserved whole

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

2 banana shallots, finely chopped

400 g/14 oz mixed green, red and yellow (bell) peppers, thinly sliced

340 g/11¾ oz/scant 2 cups risotto (Arborio) rice

600 ml/21 fl oz/generous 2½ cups hot vegetable stock (bouillon)

Place the clams, 150 ml/5 fl oz/scant ⅔ cups white wine, garlic and a few whole sprigs of parsley into a large, heavy-based saucepan, cover with a lid and cook over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes, until the clam shells have opened.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in another large saucepan set over a medium heat, add the shallots and sweat for a couple of minutes. Increase the heat, add the peppers, and stir-fry for 3 minutes.

Drain the clams, reserving the cooking liquor, and set both aside. Discard any clams that have not opened.

Stir the rice into the pan with the peppers, making sure each grain is coated with oil. Add the remaining white wine and cook until it is absorbed. Add the liquor from the clams, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until it has been absorbed. Add a couple of ladles of hot stock, stirring with a wooden spoon until the rice has absorbed it. Add a couple more ladles of stock and continue to cook in this way, stirring and adding more stock, for 17–20 minutes, until the rice is al dente.

At the end of the cooking time, stir in the clams. Serve immediately, with the finely chopped parsley and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

RISOTTO AI QUATTRO FORMAGGI

RISOTTO WITH 4 CHEESES

This has to be one of my favourite comfort foods. It’s an ideal recipe to make when you have lots of pieces of leftover cheese in the fridge. The cheeses I have used are all typically Italian, but you can of course use whatever you have to hand – I find Cheddar is always such a perfect choice.

Cooking time: 25–30 minutes

Serves 4

50 g/1¾ oz/3½ tbsp butter

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

350 g/12 oz/2 cups risotto (Arborio) rice

100 ml/3½ fl oz/7 tbsp white wine

1.5 litres/52 fl oz/6½ cups hot vegetable stock (bouillon)

50 g/1¾ oz Taleggio, roughly cut into small cubes

50 g/1¾ oz Dolcelatte, roughly cut into small cubes

50 g/1¾ oz/¾ cup grated Pecorino

50 g/1¾ oz/¾ cup grated Parmesan

a handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped (optional)

Heat 25 g/1 oz/1½ tablespoons of butter and the olive oil in a medium, heavy-based saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the onion and sweat for a couple of minutes. Stir in the rice, making sure each grain is coated in oil. Add the wine and cook until the rice has absorbed it. Then add a couple of ladles of hot stock, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the rice has absorbed it all. Add more stock and continue to cook in this way for 17–20 minutes, until the risotto is cooked al dente.

Remove from the heat, add the remaining butter and all the cheeses, and mix well until the Taleggio and Dolcelatte have nicely melted. Serve immediately, with a little chopped parsley, if desired.

RISOTTO CON SALSICCIA

SAUSAGE RISOTTO

This simple risotto makes a fantastic mid-week meal for all the family to enjoy. Ensure you get good-quality Italian pork sausages, available from good Italian delis. My favourite ones are the fennel-infused variety, but for a milder flavour go for luganica (a long, narrow sausage from northern Italy), or ask your deli to see what they have.

Cooking time: 30 minutes (not including prep)

Serves 4

40 g/1½ oz/2 generous tbsp butter

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 small red onion, finely chopped

needles of 2 rosemary sprigs

300 g/10½ oz Italian pork sausages, skins removed and meat crumbled

325 g/11½ oz/1¾ cups risotto (Arborio) rice

100 ml/3½ oz/7 tbsp white wine

1.5 litres/52 fl oz/6½ cups hot vegetable stock (bouillon)

40 g/1½ oz/generous ½ cup grated Parmesan

Heat 20 g/¾ oz/1 generous tablespoon of butter and the olive oil in a large saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the onion and sweat for a minute or so, until softened. Add the rosemary and sausage meat, increase the heat to high, and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes, until sealed. Stir in the rice, making sure each grain is coated in oil. Add the wine and cook until the rice has absorbed it. Reduce the heat to medium, and add a couple of ladles of hot stock, stirring with a wooden spoon until the rice has absorbed it all. Add a couple more ladles of stock and continue to cook in this way, stirring and adding more stock, for 17–20 minutes, until the rice is al dente.

Remove from the heat, add the remaining butter and the Parmesan, mix well and serve at once.