Italy is blessed with a wonderful variety of vegetables, and each region has its own locally-grown varieties which, in season, are excellent for the traditional dishes of that particular area. The Mediterranean climate and the difference between the cooler north and warmer south makes it ideal for growing all sorts of different produce – the north has its root vegetables and the south its tomatoes, (bell) peppers, aubergines (eggplants) and more.
Italians don’t just eat veggies as a side dish, although there is always seasonal veg or salad served at the table – we make wonderful main course dishes out of them too. Born from the cucina povera, in the days when poor people had to make do with the few ingredients they had available to them, wonderful dishes were created. Vegetables were often filled with leftovers and stale bread and made into substantial main courses – these dishes are still popular today and have become real delicacies.
Vegetables are quick to cook, are very versatile and can be made into delicious side dishes and main meals in no time. They provide lots of vital nutrients and vitamins and, quite frankly, I don’t know how I could live without them.
Even though I prefer to eat seasonally – not only are veggies more economical that way, but they taste better too – we are lucky to find all sorts of produce available at almost any time of the year, which makes cooking dishes much easier. And when you’re really under pressure time-wise, you can buy pre-prepared veg, such as trimmed green beans or chopped peppers, which can just go straight into the pan and save much preparation time.
Italians often have frittata for an evening meal (usually as a main course after a plate of pasta or soup). Frittata is nutritious, quick and easy to make, and can be enjoyed cold the next day as a panino – in between some bread. Serve with Oregano-Infused Mixed Tomato Salad (see here) for a healthy supper.
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Serves 4
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 large cipollotti (extra-large spring onions/scallions), finely chopped
12 mint leaves
300 g/10½ oz frozen peas
1 tbsp water
8 eggs
2 tbsp milk
1 tbsp breadcrumbs
40 g/1½ oz/generous ½ cup grated Pecorino
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Heat the olive oil in a large, non-stick frying pan (skillet) set over a medium heat. Add the onions and a couple of mint leaves and sweat for 2 minutes. Stir in the peas and water and cook for 2–3 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated and the peas are tender.
Meanwhile, combine the eggs, milk, breadcrumbs, Pecorino, the remaining mint leaves, and some salt and pepper. Pour the eggy mixture over the peas and cook as you would an omelette, turning halfway through, until set firm and golden. If you find you can’t turn the frittata over, place under a hot grill (broiler) for a few minutes, until golden and cooked.
This quick, delicious vegetable stew can be served as an accompaniment to meat dishes or can be eaten as a main course with some steamed rice or bread. If you are in a hurry, most of these vegetables can be found ready-chopped in lots of supermarkets.
Cooking time: 25 minutes (not including veg prep)
Serves 4
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 small red onion, finely sliced
1 small carrot, finely chopped
½ red (bell) pepper, finely chopped into thin strips
½ yellow (bell) pepper, finely chopped into thin strips
½ green (bell) pepper, finely chopped into thin strips
200 g/7 oz ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
100 g/3½ oz fine green (French) beans, trimmed
200 g/7 oz courgettes (zucchini), finely sliced
200 g/7 oz aubergine (eggplant), finely chopped into small cubes
1 medium-sized potato, peeled and cut into small chunks
2 rosemary sprigs
2 thyme sprigs
1 tsp black peppercorns
200 ml/7 fl oz/scant 1 cup vegetable stock (bouillon)
½ handful of parsley, roughly chopped
Heat the olive oil in an extra-large saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the onion and sweat for 2 minutes. Stir in all the other vegetables, rosemary, thyme and peppercorns and cook for 1 minute or so, to allow the flavours to infuse. Pour in the stock, cover with a lid, and cook for 20 minutes.
Check the stew about 5 minutes before the end of the cooking time. If you find there is still too much liquid, increase the heat and cook uncovered, so that the liquid can reduce slightly. Remove from the heat, stir in the chopped parsley and serve.
Courgettes (zucchini) can be quite bland, so cooking them in a little tomato sauce gives them the kick they need to make a tasty side dish. It can be served with meat dishes or by itself with some crusty bread.
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Serves 4
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
50 g/1¾ oz/⅓ cup diced pancetta
500 g/1 lb 2 oz courgettes (zucchini), cut into small chunks
6 basil leaves
200 g/7 oz canned chopped tomatoes
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the onion and pancetta and stir-fry for about 4 minutes, until the onion has softened and the pancetta has coloured a little. Stir in the courgettes and basil and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, season with some salt and pepper, cover with a lid and cook over a low heat for about 10–15 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the courgettes are tender.
Pane Carasau, also known as Carta di Musica, is a crispy, unleavened flatbread, which was made for Sardinian shepherds to take with them to the mountains to eat during their working day. Its crispiness makes it a light alternative to bread, and its long shelf life makes it an ideal store-cupboard ingredient. You can find it in your local Italian deli.
This quick, pizza-type recipe makes a great snack when time is precious or for when impromptu guests appear. The addition of potatoes makes it quite filling, but you could use any of your favourite pizza toppings. When serving, I find a sharp pair of kitchen scissors the best tool to cut it with, as the bread is quite crispy.
Cooking time: 20–25 minutes (including prep)
Makes 2 large pizzas
600 g/1 lb 5 oz potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
sea salt
1 red onion, finely sliced
a pinch of oregano
100 g/3½ oz cherry tomatoes, quartered
extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
2 large pane carasau (from your local Italian deli)
100 g/3½ oz mozzarella, roughly chopped
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
Place the sliced potatoes in a saucepan of salted boiling water and cook for 5–6 minutes, until tender, but not falling apart. Drain well, taking care not to break them.
Meanwhile, prepare the other ingredients. Combine the sliced onion in a bowl with a little seasoning of salt and oregano. Mix the tomatoes in a bowl with a little salt and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.
Place each pane carasau on a large flat baking tray (cookie sheet) and drizzle each with a little extra-virgin olive oil. Place the sliced potatoes on top, followed by some onions, mozzarella, and tomatoes, finishing off with another drizzle of olive oil. Place in the hot oven for 6–8 minutes, until the mozzarella has melted, and serve immediately.
This is an alternative but wonderful way to serve roast potatoes. The Parmesan and polenta mixture adds a nice crunchiness, and the roasted rosemary is delicious to eat, as well as giving the dish a fantastic flavour. To cook this even more quickly, chop the potatoes into smaller chunks. It makes a lovely accompaniment to steaks and meat cutlets.
Cooking time: 30–35 minutes
Serves 4–6
1 kg/2 lb 4 oz potatoes, peeled and cut into small chunks
50 g/1¾ oz/¾ cup grated Parmesan
100 g/3½ oz/⅔ cup polenta flour (cornmeal or maize flour)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
needles of 2 rosemary sprigs
Preheat the oven to 200°C fan/220°C/425°F/gas mark 7.
Place the potatoes in a large saucepan of water, bring to the boil and parboil for 5–6 minutes.
Meanwhile, combine the Parmesan and polenta flour with some salt and pepper in a bowl, and set aside.
Drain the potatoes well and let them steam-dry for a minute or so over a low heat to eliminate the excess moisture.
Add the olive oil to a roasting (oven) dish, add the potatoes and mix well to coat the potatoes in oil. Add the Parmesan mixture and mix again, until the potatoes are well coated. Scatter in the rosemary and drizzle with some more olive oil.
Place in the hot oven and roast for about 25 minutes, until cooked through and golden.
I love cauliflower and enjoy cooking it in many different ways. Roasting this root vegetable is now becoming popular in Italy, and exotic spices are often used as flavouring. This is my own version, using Italian ingredients and some paprika. For an added kick, you could substitute the paprika with dried chilli (hot red pepper) flakes. Quick and simple to prepare, it makes a lovely side to meat dishes, or, if you’re like me, it’s delicious to eat on its own!
Cooking time: 30 minutes (including prep)
Serves 4–6
500 g/1 lb 2 oz cauliflower florets
2 bay leaves, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, left whole and squashed
2 tsp smoked paprika (pimentón)
sea salt
juice of 1 lemon
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
Combine all the ingredients in an ovenproof dish and roast in the hot oven for 25 minutes, until cooked through.
The slightly sweet and sour flavour of the vinegar and sugar here gives a nice kick to the vegetables, and the saffron adds a hint of colour. This makes a lovely accompaniment to grilled meat, but is also delicious eaten on its own.
Cooking time: 25 minutes (including prep)
Serves 4
5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, left whole and squashed
1 large red onion, finely sliced
120 g/4¼ oz celery heart, sliced
300 g/10½ oz rainbow chard, sliced
250 g/9 oz turnips, peeled and diced
170 g/6 oz long-stemmed broccoli, trimmed
3 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 tsp granulated sugar
a pinch of saffron strands
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a small frying pan (skillet) set over a low heat. Add the garlic and onions and gently sweat for about 7 minutes.
At the same time, in a larger frying pan set over a medium–high heat, heat the rest of the olive oil, add the celery, rainbow chard, turnips and broccoli and stir-fry for about 10 minutes.
Combine the white wine vinegar, sugar and saffron, pour over the vegetables and allow to cook off. Stir in the onion (discard the garlic), and heat through for a final minute, before serving.
This recipe is so typical of the days of cucina povera, when poor people made do with whatever ingredients were available to them, and bread was often used to make a meal go further. Simple, but nutritious, this can be served as a side dish to meat, but is just as delicious eaten as a main course.
Cooking time: 40 minutes (including prep)
Serves 2–4
1 hispi (spring or sweetheart) cabbage, roughly chopped into thick strips
sea salt
100 g/3½ oz country-style bread, such as sourdough
125 g/4½ oz mozzarella
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 garlic clove, left whole
a few pinches of paprika
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
Cook the cabbage in salted boiling water for about 7 minutes, then drain (keeping a ladle or so of the cooking water).
Meanwhile, chop the bread into cubes, and roughly slice the mozzarella, and set aside.
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan (skillet) set over a medium heat. Add the garlic and sweat for a minute or so. Add the drained cabbage to the pan, seasoning with a little salt and a pinch of paprika, and stir-fry for 4 minutes.
Place the cooked cabbage, bread cubes and mozzarella in an ovenproof dish, add a ladle of cooking water, a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of paprika, and bake in the hot oven for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile heat the grill (broiler).
Remove the dish of baked cabbage from the oven and place under the hot grill for 4 minutes, until golden-brown. Serve immediately.
A delicious bake of chard, eggs and cheese, the English title of this recipe sums up the fact that you can enjoy this dish at any time of day! Very quick and simple to prepare, it makes a nutritious breakfast as well as a light supper. Be careful not to add salt to the creamy mixture, because the olive paste tends to be quite salty already. If you prefer, you could omit the olive paste and serve the toasted bread with a little salt and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil instead.
Cooking time: 20 minutes (including prep)
Serves 4
400 g/14 oz rainbow chard, washed and trimmed
sea salt, for the cooking water
butter, for greasing
small jar of black olive paste
4 eggs, carefully separated (try to keep the yolks whole)
100 ml/3½ fl oz/7 tbsp double (heavy) cream
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
40 g/1½ oz/generous ½ cup grated Parmesan
slices of sourdough bread, to serve
4 × 15-cm/6-in round terracotta dishes
Preheat the oven to 160°C fan/180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.
Add the chard to a saucepan of salted boiling water and cook for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, grease 4 × 15-cm/6-in round terracotta dishes with butter and spread a little of the black olive paste, to taste, in the bottom of each.
Whisk together the egg whites, double cream, black pepper and grated Parmesan, until well combined and creamy.
Drain the chard and divide between the terracotta dishes, overlapping the leaves if necessary to fit into the dishes. Pour over the creamy mixture and bake in the hot oven for 7 minutes. After this time, remove from the oven and carefully add an egg yolk on top of each dish. Return to the oven for 2–3 minutes, until the egg is cooked but still soft.
Lightly toast the bread slices, spread with a little of the olive paste and serve with the egg and chard bakes.
In Southern Italy, where escarole – a type of lettuce – is widely grown, it is quite common to serve it like this. The idea originated in the days of cucina povera (peasant cooking), when local vegetables would be filled with whatever ingredients were available, to make the meal go further. These crunchy Gem lettuces can be served as a starter, side or main.
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Serves 2–4
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 garlic clove, left whole
½ fresh red chilli, finely chopped
100 g/3½ oz/1¾ cups shop-bought breadcrumbs
30 g/1 oz pine nuts
salt and freshly ground black pepper
60 g/2¼ oz/½ cup mixed green and black stoned (pitted) olives, sliced in half or in quarters, depending on size
2 Gem lettuces, as large as you can find
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
Heat a frying pan (skillet) over a low-medium heat, add the olive oil, then add the garlic and chilli and cook for 1 minute, being careful not to let them burn. Add the breadcrumbs and pine nuts and cook for 3 minutes, until lightly toasted. Remove from the heat, discard the garlic clove, then stir in the olives. Season with a little salt and pepper.
Slightly open each Gem lettuce and fill with the breadcrumb mixture, tucking it down in the centre and in between the leaves. Place each lettuce on a sheet of baking (parchment) paper, drizzle all over with some olive oil, then wrap the lettuce up tightly in the paper – like a huge boiled sweet (hard candy)! Place on a baking tray (cookie sheet) and bake in the hot oven for 8 minutes.
Remove from the oven and carefully open the parcels. Slice the lettuces in half lengthways and serve.
I remember seeing this dish made at a farmhouse in Puglia – the green beans were freshly picked from their garden and the eggs were fresh from their chickens. I remember thinking it was such a simple recipe, but the flavours were out of this world. I have tried to recreate it for this book. Although it is typically served as a side dish to meat, I could quite happily eat a bowlful with some country bread.
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Serves 4
500 g/1 lb 2 oz green (French) beans, trimmed
1 generous tbsp butter
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 egg, lightly beaten
juice of ½ lemon
Cook the beans in boiling water for 10–15 minutes, until tender, then drain.
In a large frying pan (skillet), heat the butter and olive oil over a high heat, add the drained beans, season with salt and pepper and stir-fry for 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium, then add the beaten egg and lemon juice, stirring well. Remove from the heat and serve immediately.
