Chapter 3
Making Magic with Beads, Crystals, Pearls, and Stones
In This Chapter
Getting to know beads
Choosing your crystals
Identifying different types of pearls
Getting the scoop on stones
Finding and purchasing your beads, pearls, and gems
In its most basic definition, a bead is anything that can be strung or threaded. So whether I’m talking about pearls, stones, crystals, or plastic, on some level, these are all materials that can be turned into beads. However, not all purists agree. Those who work with gemstone beads, in particular, often turn their noses up at plastic beads because they prefer to work with beads made from natural materials.
Beads are usually the most important and costly things you need in making your jewelry. And given the vast array of beads available, including a variety of pearls, stones, and crystals from around the world, choosing what to buy is probably the hardest part of your entire design process!
In this chapter, I identify many of the beads, stones, and pearls available. I show you where to find them and how to get the most from their beauty and at the greatest value. I also give you the details on semi-precious stones and their fabled healing properties. Finally, you get to play around with various bead textures, colors, and shapes for a truly unique look — and one that may have the power to make you feel good, too!
Bead Basics
Whether you shop online or in a physical store, you’ll find an endless range of beads, from leaves, hearts, and other shapes, to shell beads and simulated gem strands, to lampwork, cat’s eye, dichroic, Italian glass, metal beads, and more. Choose beads that appeal to you based on their shape, size, color, or shimmer. The great thing about beaded jewelry is that if you put it together and don’t like how it looks, you can tear your piece apart and rework it. Experiment until you find combinations that work for you.
Identifying man-made beads
Here are descriptions for some of my favorite beads and favorite ways to use them to help you decide what’s best for your design:
Dichroic glass beads: Dichroic (pronounced die-crow-ik) glass literally means multicolored glass. It’s created by fusing layers of glass together in a vacuum and simultaneously depositing metal oxides in the glass. When you look at a bead, pendant, or other jewelry component made from dichroic glass, you can see many layers, textures, and colors, despite the smooth surface. These beads are shiny, vibrant, and an excellent choice for a pendant or central bead in your design.
Cat’s eye beads: You can recognize cat’s eye beads by their signature band of color in the middle of the bead. They usually contrast two colors (like red and orange or purple and white) in a dramatic fade from one to the other and back again. Their shimmering, dual luster creates a dramatic “eye” in the center of the bead, reminiscent of the eye of a cat. They pair well with metal spacers, stones, or pearls. Choose colors to complement a particular outfit or occasion for a customized look. These beads are available either in their natural state (carved from quartz) or man-made from glass.
Czech glass beads: Sometimes called Czech (pronounced “check”) pressed glass, this type of bead is available in just about any shape imaginable. Rather than being heated and shaped by hand, it’s heated and pressed into molds. In the lower quality beads, you’ll actually see a seam in the middle of the bead. Incidentally, you can find other styles of Czech beads including druk beads, which are slightly squished round beads in every size and color, and Czech fire-polished beads, which have a high shine. Some Czech beads sport a hand-painted design, like flowers or dots reminiscent of lampwork beads. You can always add these where you need a little glitter here and there.
Lampwork beads: Artists create these beads by heating glass canes with a torch and then wrapping the melting glass around a rod, called a mandrel, to shape it. The finished beads are annealed, subjected to high heat and then slowly cooled in glass kilns, specialized ovens, to improve their durability and strength. Lampwork beads, shown in Figure 3-1, often have swirling or raised designs in metallic or coordinating colors applied after the initial bead is formed, giving them a bumpy appearance. They are handmade and extremely popular for everything from earrings to necklaces and bracelets.
Photograph courtesy of Fire Mountain Gems and Beads™
Figure 3-1: Lampwork beads.
Metal beads: Metal beads are highly versatile. You can find any shape and style bead made from metal. Metal beads are made from pewter; brass; gold; sterling silver; gold or silver plate; vermeil (pronounced either ver-may or ver-mill), which are sterling silver electroplated with 22kt gold; and other base metals. There is no limit to the designs, styles, and combinations available in metal beads. Many metal beads come in simple, smooth, polished forms. Others, like Bali beads, are highly detailed with intricate shapes. You can find metal beads inlaid with precious and semi-precious stones that serve as excellent focal points for any design. Or use smaller round, saucer-shaped, or flower-shaped beads as spacers to complement larger beads of any shape. The price of metal beads varies by the type of metal used to create them and the time that goes into their creation. Handmade beads are more expensive than the machine-made version and are sometimes priced depending on their gram weight.
Cloisonné: Skilled artisans create each cloisonné piece using enameling techniques. They solder tiny tracts of precious metals onto the base bead to create a frame for the design, meticulously fill the frames with enameling powder, and fire the pieces again and again after each application to melt the powder and create the gorgeous designs. Finally, they are highly polished to reveal the final design. See Figure 3-2. Using a cloisonné bead gives any design an Asian feel. They make great choices for pendants or accents within a larger piece.
Spacer beads: Spacer beads are a key element in any design. They can be made out of just about anything, but they all share a common quality: They give the eye a break and let other beads take center stage. Their purpose is to separate or space out the core design elements. Without the break that spacer beads provide, you couldn’t appreciate the complete shape, design, or surface of the components. Almost anything can be used as a spacer bead, but typical spacer shapes include small round beads, doughnuts, flat flowers, and tiny tubes. Some spacers, like doughnuts, have a much larger stringing hole than other beads. Because they’re intended to be used between larger beads, don’t worry about them slipping off. Check out Figure 3-3 for examples of several spacer bead styles.
Seed beads: Seed beads are tiny beads used for looming, weaving, embellishing, and much more. They come in a range of sizes from tiny to extra super tiny. Okay, those aren’t the technical names, but they are really small. They are so small, in fact, that to string them you definitely want to use a needle. Because of their incredible consistency in size, the most popular brand of seed beads is Delica seed beads, which have a huge variety of colors, transparencies, and finishes. Sometimes, the stringing hole is lined with a different color, giving the bead a different look. You can also find cube, triangle, teardrop, bugle (tube), peanut, and hex-cut seed beads that can add a little more sparkle to your design. A relatively new seed bead style is the tila, a flat square bead with two stringing holes rather than one.
The higher the seed bead size number, the smaller it is. For example, the 11/0 seed beads are larger than the 15/0. Seed beads are sold by weight. For example, a 7.5-gram container of 11/0 seed beads contains approximately 1,600 beads and costs about $2. A 50-gram pouch has roughly 10,500 to 11,000 beads and costs in the neighborhood of $9.
Photograph courtesy of Fire Mountain Gems and Beads™
Figure 3-2: Cloisonné beads.
Photograph courtesy of Fire Mountain Gems and Beads™
Figure 3-3: Spacer bead examples.
Getting familiar with bead shapes
Many beads are cut into shapes. The shape of the beads you choose adds as much to the beauty of your work as the color or type of material you select. While you can find most of these bead shapes for most semi-precious stones, crystals, glass, and other mediums, most faceted styles, or styles with flat polished cuts added to them, were traditionally reserved for glass and crystal beads. But facets can be added to any stone. In fact, even pearls are available today as faceted beads. Facets are added to beads to increase shine and sparkle.
Here are descriptions of some common bead shapes. Check out Figure 3-4 to see the shapes in living color.
Round: As the name implies, this bead is shaped like a sphere and round all over.
Teardrop: The teardrop bead has one narrow, pointed end and one end that is wider and rounded. Teardrops can be flat or rounded on their front and back faces. The hole for teardrop beads is either drilled down through the center (lengthwise) or through the side near the top, which is referred to as side-drilled or top-drilled.
Oval: Oval beads are rounded beads that are narrow on the ends and wider in the middle. Look for flat ovals and rounded ovals. When looking at pearls, the ovals are often called rice-shaped.
Doughnut: Sometimes called rings, doughnuts are round and flat and have a large hole in the middle. This hole can be used as the stringing or threading hole, but often doughnuts are connected together with jump rings or wire so that they lie flat against the skin. Some doughnuts also have edge-to-edge holes so they can be strung and lay flat against the skin.
Illustration by Wiley, Composition Services Graphics
Figure 3-4: Some common bead shapes.
Tube: Tubes can be long, short, or anywhere in between. They are always longer than they are wide, and they are fairly narrow. Use them as spacers between beads of other shapes for interesting contrast.
Rondelle: Rondelles are kind of like squished round beads. They are flatter than round beads and are often, but not always, faceted. The facets add significant sparkle to an otherwise ordinary bead. Rondelle is the number-one selling crystal shape. You can pair them with bicone beads, cubes, or tubes for nonstop sparkle.
Bicone: Bicone beads are shaped like two cones stacked base to base. Both ends are narrow, while the center is wider. They are available in smooth or faceted styles.
Briolette: This is the fancy name for a faceted, rounded, teardrop-shaped bead. Some people call it a drop bead.
Cabochon: A cabochon, sometimes shortened to just cab, is flat on one side, but that flat side isn’t seen when the piece is worn. Instead, the flat side is affixed to a backing or wrapped in wire. Cabochons can be large or small and worn as pendants, used as dangles, attached to links of a bracelet, or used many other ways.
For video instructions on attaching bails to cabochons, take a look at the DVD that comes with the printed version of this book (or visit http://booksupport.wiley.com).
Cube: Cubes are great all-purpose beads. They are square-shaped and fully 3-D. Each of their six sides is the same size. Look for cubes with letters for fun name bracelets. You can also find crystal cubes that are hand-faceted. Most semi-precious stones come in cubes and look cool paired with crystals in earrings, necklaces, or bracelets. Some cubes are diagonally drilled, meaning they are drilled corner to corner rather than through the center.
Lentil: A lentil is a rounded bead that’s flat on one side, just like a split lentil that you make into soup. Crystal lentils are usually highly faceted, much like a rondelle on the rounded side. Choose them for projects like bracelets or necklaces that lay flat against the skin rather than items like earrings that dangle freely.
Most beads are center-drilled, meaning the hole is drilled directly through the thickest part of the bead exactly where you’d expect it to be, as shown in Figure 3-5a. Beads can be side-drilled (edge to edge) or center-drilled from top to bottom or front to back. Center-drilled beads are often used for earrings or for stringing on a necklace.
If you’re interested in creating a statement with a large center bead or a pendant, consider choosing a top-drilled bead instead. Top-drilled beads are drilled through the top or tip of a bead. Typically these beads have a point (like a bicone or teardrop), and the bead is drilled through this point, making the point the top of the bead. Top-drilled beads can be drilled front to back (Figure 3-5b) or side-drilled (Figure 3-5c).
Illustration by Wiley, Composition Services Graphics
Figure 3-5: Examples of stringing hole orientation.
Understanding bead sizes
Beads come in many different sizes, most often measured in millimeters (abbreviated mm). One inch is equivalent to about 25 millimeters. Check out Table 3-1 to find out how many beads you need to create your designs.
All the numbers in Table 3-1 are approximate. If your beads aren’t all the same size, the number you need varies. This chart is particularly helpful if you need to purchase a certain number of beads but the description lists strand length instead of the number of beads. So if you’re buying a 16-inch strand of 6mm beads, for example, you know you’re getting about 68 beads. If you need 100 beads for your design, you’d better get two strands.
When you’re working with larger beads, allow more room on your thread or wire for the finished piece if it will be worn close to the skin — for example, in a choker or bracelet design. A bead’s hole is often drilled in the middle of the bead, which means that a large bead offers more space between the thread going through the hole and your skin. Smaller beads take up less space. Make sure to measure the interior diameter of the necklace, rather than the length of the necklace, to make sure your piece will fit you. Take a look at Figure 3-6 to see how big an individual bead is.
Illustration by Wiley, Composition Services Graphics
Figure 3-6: Round bead sizes.
Using Crystals
Crystal is simply glass infused with a small amount of lead. The chemicals (generally metal oxides) used during the heating process (rather than dyes), determine the color of the crystal. Different chemicals absorb different wavelengths of visible light, and the human eye sees the opposite of the absorbed color. For example, if the chemical added absorbs red, you see a green crystal. Because a clear, colorless crystal contains no impurities, it’s tougher to make one than to make its colorful cousins. Even minor contamination introduced during the manufacturing process could change the clarity of the crystal.
Because the lead is stabilized in the glass, crystals aren’t toxic. But because they can shatter if crushed or damaged, and the resulting pieces are very small and sharp, crystals should not be stored near children or pets. If children work with crystals, they should do so only with adult supervision.
Crystal beads come in numerous shapes, cuts, and sizes and are sold in packages of loose beads. You can also find individual crystals at any bead store. Their popularity has exploded recently because their colors range from topaz to sapphire. They are truly versatile design elements and can be used with anything including pearls, stones, and metals. They come with a variety of finishes, the most common being AB, which stands for Aurora Borealis, an iridescent clear coat that adds sparkle to a clear or flat color. One of my favorite shapes is the faceted bicone shape because it can be mixed with round beads for tremendous sparkle. Whether the beads are glued, strung on thread, set, or wrapped in metal, you can use crystals in a variety of ways.
Designing crystal jewelry
Combine various styles and shapes of beads, like rondelles and crystal encrusted spacers, to create an interesting look, or use crystals as end caps for an elegant touch. Let your creativity be your guide to create your own accessories, gifts for friends, or even merchandise to sell. Make the glamorous but simple Crystal Drop Earrings (Project 3-1) to try your hand at choosing and using crystals.
Project 3-1: Crystal Drop Earrings
Inspired by old Hollywood, drop (sometimes called dangle) earrings have been an evening fashion staple spanning several decades. Maybe it’s because their length makes your neck appear longer and the crystals make your face appear brighter. Choose any type or size stone or crystal based on your preference and your budget. For simplicity, I use the basic clear crystal teardrop with an AB (Aurora Borealis, or iridescent) finish. Check out Figure 3-8 for a peek at the finished project.
Tools and Materials
1 round-nose pliers
1 flat-nose pliers
1 wire cutter
2 11⁄2-inch-long plain or jeweled sterling silver headpins (wires with a flat head on one end)
2 4-inch-long sterling silver eyepins (wires with a tiny loop on one end)
2 sterling silver lever-back hinged earwires (I prefer these because if the earring becomes a bit heavy with all the dazzling crystals, the lever-back is a safer bet. If you prefer kidney-shaped or fishhook earwires, or even clip-ons, go for it.)
2 15×10mm crystal AB teardrops with a side-drilled hole
20–26 6mm diamond-shaped or bicone crystal beads in any color
1. Stack 10 to 13 bicone beads on one silver eyepin. I used 13 beads in each of my earrings because I wanted to go for the maximum sparkle to impress the other celebs at the award ceremony.
The more beads you use, the longer your earrings will be. You could use fewer than what’s called for if you have a shorter eyepin. A 2-inch eyepin, for example, holds about 8, so for both earrings, you’d need 16 beads in all.
2. On the straight end of the eyepin, take your round-nose pliers and gently form a small, open loop, while holding the beaded eyepin in your other hand. Don’t fully close the loop yet because you’ll need to connect it to the loop at the bottom of your earwire. Take a look at Figure 3-7a to see how this works.
3. Connect one earwire to the open loop you’ve just made with your eyepin. Figure 3-7b shows you how. Secure the loop closed with your flat-nose pliers; see Figure 3-7c.
Be gentle! When closing the “eye” of your eyepin, don’t squeeze the handle of your pliers too much or your “eye” will flatten and no longer be round in shape.
4. Slide the teardrop crystal onto a headpin. Trim any excess wire with the wire cutters, leaving about 1⁄4 inch of wire extending beyond the crystal. Form a small, open loop at the top with the remaining 1⁄4 inch with your round-nose pliers.
Illustration by Wiley, Composition Services Graphics
Figure 3-7: Creating crystal earrings.
5. Connect the open loop of your headpin to the bottom loop on your eyepin. Secure the loop closed (but not too tight) with your flat-nose pliers.
6. Repeat for other earring. Make sure you use the same number of bicone beads on this earring that you chose in the first one, so they’re the same length.
7. Hold earrings up to face, smile, and prepare Oscar acceptance speech.
Photograph by Andy Dismore
Figure 3-8: Crystal Drop Earrings.
I suggest using Austrian-made crystals by Swarovski because they’re the finest quality and provide the biggest bang for your buck. But if you’re looking to trim down your bead budget a bit, look for Czech crystals, which are nearly as nice and a bit cheaper. (Check out Chapter 17 for great places to get jewelry-making supplies.) I have a client who had a tight budget for her bridal jewelry. I used Swarovski crystals for the focal point teardrops but mixed Czech crystals and fresh water pearls for the bulk of the beadwork. This blending brought the price down quite a bit and still gave her a stunning necklace for her wedding.
Selecting the best crystals for your budget
While several glass and crystal bead brands exist, Swarovski Austrian crystals are considered the finest products of their kind because of their wide spectrum of colors, unbeatable quality, and precise cut. That said, a package of 100 6mm bicone crystal beads sets you back about $20, and a package of 4mm bicone crystal beads runs you about $12. I think the quality is well worth the extra few bucks. Of course, if you’re buying in large quantities, you can get that price down. I’m just giving you the high end of what to expect to pay in small quantities so you won’t be shocked at the checkout stand. If you try these beauties and love them, start shopping for the best prices. Use Table 3-2 to help you organize your pricing comparisons. I’ve included a couple examples to get you started.
The round and bicone shapes are the most popular and widely available crystals, but you can find crystals in a host of other shapes, including heart shaped, doughnut or ring shaped, teardrop, and cubes. Older cuts, colors, and patterns are often discontinued as other newer colors, coatings, shapes, and cuts are created. If you find one that’s unusual, and you really like it or use it often, stock up because it may not be around for long.
Sometimes a store even sells the last batch of antique crystals. Antique can mean that the beads are very old, or it can mean that the style has been discontinued, making them collectible. Get the full story from your seller so you know which you’re getting.
Cracking the crystal code
The name of the color for each Swarovski crystal represents the basic crystal color and the coating applied to the crystal, if there is one. By basic crystal color I mean the color of the glass itself. The coating is a surface finish that is applied to the glass to enhance its appearance.
When the basic color of the glass is clear and colorless, the name of the color starts with the word Crystal. The popular bead color called Crystal AB, for example, has the word Crystal because it’s made from clear, colorless glass, followed by AB for the Aurora Borealis coating. The AB coating gives crystals the iridescent rainbow appearance.
Many colors are then followed up with the shape of the bead to identify the name of the exact bead you’re looking at. So the Crystal AB bicone is a clear crystal with an Aurora Borealis coating shaped like a bicone, or diamond.
Who doesn’t want a piece of jewelry custom-made for them? Maybe you’re not ready to bend someone’s name in wire and mount it on a necklace, but you can whip up a quick pair of earrings featuring your best friend’s birthstone. Use Table 3-3 to customize jewelry by matching the color of crystals to specific birthstones. Often the name of the color is the same as the name of the genuine gemstone, making it pretty easy!
Table 3-3 Getting Creative with Birthstones
|
Month |
Stone |
Crystal Alternative (Stone Color) |
|
January |
Garnet, rose quartz |
Siam, garnet, or rose (deep to light red) |
|
February |
Amethyst, onyx |
Amethyst or jet (light purple or black) |
|
March |
Aquamarine, red jasper |
Aquamarine (very pale blue) |
|
April |
Diamond, rock crystal |
Crystal AB (clear) |
|
May |
Emerald, chrysoprase |
Emerald (dark green) |
|
June |
Moonstone, pearl |
Light topaz, smoky topaz, or light tan or pearl |
|
July |
Ruby, carnelian |
Siam or garnet (rich deep red) |
|
August |
Peridot, aventurine |
Peridot (light green) |
|
September |
Sapphire, lapis lazuli |
Sapphire or Montana sapphire (dark blue) |
|
October |
Tourmaline, opal |
Smoky topaz (dark tan-purple) |
|
November |
Citrine, topaz |
Topaz or Colorado topaz (tan) |
|
December |
Zircon, turquoise |
Light sapphire or topaz (light blue or orange-red) |
Rather than buying a few packs of different-colored crystals, consider buying a single large assorted pack. You can experiment with different combinations of colors and finishes, plus you generally get a better price per bead. Assortments are a great way to get started using any new product.
Wisdom on Pearls
Pearls are no longer a jewelry accessory you store in a box waiting for your next wedding invitation. And they’re not just available in only a few select strand lengths, with few pearl sizes. They have definitely come into their own. They run the gamut in terms of color, size, and shape. They’re hot, trendy, and classic all at the same time.
Also, because the price of pearls has been dropping for the last several years, you don’t need to wait to inherit some from your great aunt’s third cousin. With the current supply of freshwater pearls, it’s entirely possible that you could afford some of your very own right now. And even if you can’t buy the genuine article now, you can use excellent glass faux pearls in many of your designs.
The pearl is unique because it’s the only gem grown inside a living organism. Technically, they’re organic gems rather than gemstones because they come from living organisms. Natural pearls are formed when an irritant — a piece of shell, a scale, or a grain of sand — becomes lodged inside an oyster or mollusk. The irritant becomes the pearl’s nucleus, or center, as it’s coated over several years with layers of nacre, or lustrous outer shell, inside the oyster. The size and shape of the nucleus and the region of the ocean where the mollusk lives all affect the final size, color, and shape of the pearl.
Natural pearls are pearls that are made without any interference from people. They are extremely rare and expensive because overfishing and pollution plague the beds known for producing natural pearls. Instead, most pearls are cultured, or helped along by people. Check out the Cultured pearls section later in this chapter for the full story.
Never use jewelry polish meant for stones or silver to clean your genuine pearls. Pearls are too porous and may decompose or peel. Instead, simply use a little liquid soap and water. Treat your pearls with care, and they should last a lifetime. The natural oils in your skin may change the color of the pearls over a long period of time, but that only adds to their luster and beauty.
Natural pearls vary greatly in price, depending on their shape, size, and color; see Table 3-4. A 6–7mm semiround freshwater pearl with a decent off-white luster runs about $15 a strand, but don’t expect every pearl to be exactly the same size and shape. That’s the beauty of nature — it’s not supposed to be perfect. If you want perfectly round pearls, be prepared to pay at a minimum $50 a strand.
Check out the Gemological Institute of America, or GIA (www.gia.edu), for information about pearls and other gemstones. GIA has an app for the iPad (with other versions coming soon) called Gems & Gemology to educate consumers on the latest info on gems, pearls, and stones.
Faux pearls
For beginning jewelry-making purposes, machine-made faux pearls are often easier to work with than natural pearls because their sizes and holes are so uniform. Start with a package of faux glass — not plastic — pearls found at any crafts store. (Glass pearls are only slightly more expensive than plastic, but the jewelry you create with them is heavier and more professional looking.) Glass pearls come in many sizes, shapes, and colors. While pink, ivory, and white glass pearls are widely available, you may also look for glass pearls with a metallic finish or ones with facets, depending on your taste.
Glass pearls come in sizes similar to freshwater and cultured pearls; refer to Figure 3-6 for common round bead sizes. Their care and cleaning is pretty much the same as natural pearls, but don’t expect faux pearls to last forever. They’re simply glass beads with a pearlized coating, so over time, the coating will start to peel.
If you run a strand of pearls across your teeth, genuine pearls have a sandy or grainy feel. Faux pearls are smooth.
Cultured pearls
In pearl lingo, the word “culture” has nothing to do with class, refinement, or yogurt with acidophilus. It simply means that pearl farmers have helped the process along by inserting an irritant into the shell of the oyster or mussel. The animal then secretes the nacre that forms around the irritant, creating the pearl. Naturally occurring pearls are extremely rare due to overfishing and pollution. Most pearls are cultured and grown in farms where they are nurtured and protected.
You may notice that some of the holes in cultured pearls are very small, so purchase a bead reamer, a tool designed to slightly and gently increase the diameter of a bead’s hole, just in case you get a few pearls that won’t fit through your thread or wire. See Chapter 2 for details on other tools to keep in your workshop.
Freshwater and saltwater pearls
Freshwater pearls grow in mussels, while saltwater pearls grow in oysters. Typically, the shape difference of the shell itself has accounted for shape differences between the two types of pearls. However, Chinese farmers are increasingly producing round freshwater cultured pearls in huge numbers, driving down the cost.
You’ll notice a substantial price difference between saltwater and freshwater pearls. Saltwater pearls are much more costly to produce for a couple reasons:
Most oysters produce one or two saltwater pearls each, whereas freshwater mussels produce as many as 40 to 50 pearls each.
The freshwater beds are much easier to keep uncontaminated and unpolluted than saltwater beds, which ensures a larger harvest of freshwater pearls.
Pearl quality
No internationally recognized standard exists for grading pearls, but you may see or hear pearls described as A, AA, or AAA pearls. Because there’s no consistency in the grading, one company’s AA pearl is another company’s A pearl. For the most part, letters like A or AA are marketing descriptions and don’t accurately describe pearl quality.
As a rule, the richer the luster and more perfectly round (or less bumpy the shape), the more expensive the pearl. Here’s a list of considerations when selecting pearls for jewelry making:
Color: The traditional pearl is white, but it’s not typical for pearls to be white straight from the mollusk. In most cases, standard white pearls have been bleached, usually with light. Pink, lilac, and peach are all naturally occurring colors for pearls.
In addition to the overall color of the pearl, they sometimes have an overtone color. White pearls, for example, often have a slight pink or slight green tint. Even black pearls can have an overtone.
Orient: Orient describes whether or not the pearl has an iridescent quality or appearance. The pearl’s orient allows the pearl to appear to change colors slightly as the light hits it.
Luster: Luster describes the pearl’s shine or sparkle. The higher the luster, the sharper the reflection you’ll see in the pearl’s surface.
Size: Size is probably the most objective attribute. You can easily measure a pearl and determine its size (refer to Figure 3-6 to see actual bead sizes). As a range, 3mm pearls are fairly small and 8mm pearls are fairly large. Any pearl over 8mm is extremely large and rare.
Shape: The round shape is the most recognizable and popular pearl shape, but don’t overlook the amazing variety of shapes in your jewelry designs:
• Potato: Semiround, symmetrical
• Rice: Oval shaped, symmetrical
• Button: Round on one side but squished flat on the opposite side, symmetrical
• Teardrop: Symmetrically aligned from side to side, but more narrow and pointed on one end, and wider and rounder on the other
• Stick: Pointed, somewhat jagged, nonsymmetrical
• Baroque: Irregularly shaped, nonsymmetrical
The symmetry of the shape of the pearl is incredibly important to its value. If a pearl has symmetry it means if you draw a line down the middle of the pearl, both sides look the same. Check out Figure 3-9 for a peek at a variety of pearl shapes.
Surface quality: The smoother and more blemish-free the surface of a pearl, the higher the value. A blemish is a little dent or mark on the surface of the pearl. Pearl surface quality can range from smooth to heavily blemished.
Nacre: The pearl’s nacre is the coating secreted by the mollusk around the irritant to create the pearl. The thicker the nacre, the higher the price of the pearl. Because some pearls are cultured by placing a bead in the mollusk as an irritant, the nacre may be thin even if the pearl itself is big. This situation can be a problem because a thin nacre can chip much more easily than a thick one, greatly diminishing the appearance of the pearl over time.
Photograph courtesy of Fire Mountain Gems and Beads™
Figure 3-9: The wide variety of pearls creates endless design possibilities.
Buy what you like. So many of the criteria used to price pearls are subjective, so your opinion definitely matters.
Working with Stones
What would-be-princess or wanna-be pirate hasn’t pictured a treasure box overflowing with gems and gold pieces? Maybe that dream can’t actually come true for most of us, but you can create a little piece of that fantasy for yourself by crafting jewelry from gems and stones.
Identifying stones and gems
While there are thousands of stones and gems, many with similar names and colors, I’ve listed some of the most popular ones here. As you visit bead stores or go to bead shows, you’ll keep discovering new stones. In fact, entire books and catalogs focus on describing different stones.
Here’s the list of fairly common gems and stones you should be able to find at your local bead store or online bead vendor:
Agate: Agate is a semi-opaque stone available in many colors, including blues, greens, yellows, pinks, and black. Agate typically has stripes of color variations or blends that make it an interesting addition to any jewelry piece. Its mixture of vibrant colors blends well with pink and white pearls.
If blue is your color, blue agate is a must-have for you. In its natural form, this agate is often gray. If you’re creating jewelry that resembles the water or sky, try combining this semi-translucent stone with a variety of other blue beads — like various shapes and shades of Austrian crystals. Enhance it by mixing it with other cool colors such as greens and lavenders. Blue agate is often used to create Intaglia cameos, or cameos carved from the back that have a smooth top.
Amazonite: For cool and calm, think amazonite. These blue-green beads add a sense of tranquility to all your jewelry. For a distinctive look, try it with black onyx or combine it with red-streaked green and white bloodstone or green and blue crystals.
Amber: A semi-transparent, yellow-gold soft stone, amber gives off a delicate, sweet smell when rubbed or warmed. In fact it can actually burn. Amber is actually fossilized tree resin, and it’s been used in medicines, jewelry, and religious artifacts for thousands of years. Use it to warm up any design from teardrop earrings to a choker. Mix it with onyx or carnelian for a taste of fall anytime.
Amethyst: The most popular quartz is probably amethyst, which ranges from a light lilac to a deep purple, the color of royalty. It’s a rich and popular multipurpose gemstone. Most people think of it as a stone with exceptional spiritual power. This highly valued quartz works well in pendants and earrings or in a strand of beads or briolettes. Faceted amethyst with tiny pearls is also a beautiful combination.
Ametrine: A delicate blend of quartz containing both amethyst and citrine, ametrine is beautiful. It’s a newer gemstone, discovered less than 40 years ago. Depending on how the gem is cut, you can have either more purple with a splash of yellow, or vice versa. Choose beads for what appeals to you, and you can’t go wrong.
Apatite: Apatite is usually bright sea green but can also be found in yellows, blues, browns, and purples. Its name means “to deceive” because many early merchants often mistook it for more valuable stones like peridot. It’s used less often than other gems in jewelry making because it’s not as hard as other stones. Use it carefully in pieces that won’t receive daily wear.
Aquamarine: Sparkling light blue to blue-green aquamarine is a strong stone. Few of these stones are actually mined and found naturally in their signature color. Instead, paler, duller stones are heated until the desired color is reached, or they are dyed (though the dyed forms may be somewhat brittle). Use it in rings, pendants, or exquisite ankle bracelets.
Aventurine: Because aventurine is a hard stone, it’s popular with stone carvers and, therefore, is an excellent resource for beads, cabochons, and other types of decorative components. The colors range from light to medium green, although some forms of aventurine are also available in reds, blues, grays, and oranges. It contains small flecks of mineral inclusions, giving it extra sparkle. A poor-man’s jade, green aventurine has a look similar to jade without the cost.
Black onyx: The natural color of onyx is a creamy mixture of beige, brown, and off-white. For beads, it is seldom sold in its natural state and instead is generally dyed black. This is a great stone for making men’s jewelry, and it also looks wonderful with sterling silver.
Blue topaz: Assigned as a birthstone to November or December (depending on whom you ask), blue topaz is a form of quartz and comes in light to medium shades of blue. It’s a favorite of fine jewelers who include it in high-end gold jewelry, most often as a faceted set stone. But you can also find blue topaz beads for your own designs. One word of warning, however: Because these stones are often color treated, don’t leave dyed quartz in bright light or it will fade.
Carnelian: Like many gemstones, carnelian is normally treated to darken its color, which ranges from light orange to dark burgundy. The darker the stone, the more you can bet it’s been color enhanced. The darker shades of carnelian are also more popular with gemstone bead enthusiasts. Personally, I prefer those that border on the brown rather than the burgundy.
Citrine: The citrine gemstone is a birthstone for the month of November. It’s a form of quartz and is normally a translucent light to dark yellow color.
Coral: Coral is an organic gem created by animal organisms from the ocean. Its colors range from light orange to dark red. It can be very expensive. Some coral is not legally farmed, so faux coral is a good alternative. Faux coral is normally made from glass or resin.
Emerald: This is a precious stone, so emerald beads can be very pricey. It’s also a delicate stone, so it can fracture fairly easily. Another favorite of fine jewelers, you’ll normally find faceted emeralds in gold jewelry. However, some vendors also sell emerald beads.
Fluorite: When you purchase fluorite beads, you’ll notice that they don’t come in just one color. In fact, if you buy them by the unfinished strand, you’ll see that even on one strand, the colors vary from light to dark purple, light to dark green, and off-white. Look for similar pairs of beads to make funky earrings. Or string various colors together with spacer beads to show off the variety available.
Garnets: Garnet is the birthstone for January. While you’ve probably seen this stone used in fine jewelry before, it’s also a very popular and fairly inexpensive gemstone used for beads. It comes in a variety of colors, but you’ll most often find garnet beads to be dark red to burgundy.
Hematite: Dark and shiny, hematite is an iron ore. It’s dark gray, and to some people it looks black. Along with round beads in different millimeters, hematite beads are also available in a variety of shapes such as stars, hearts, cubes, moons, and tubes. I use hematite teardrops often for earrings or pendants.
Iolite: Originating from the mineral cordierite, iolite is a violet blue gemstone often with ribbons and flecks of other colors. It’s recently surged in popularity. Some of the areas where this gemstone is mined include Sri Lanka, India, and Burma. Pair it with rose quartz or freshwater pearls to create a delicate bracelet or pair of earrings.
Jade: Reminiscent of the Orient, jade is a very hard stone and has been used for centuries for carving. Dark green is the most common form of jade, but it also comes in other colors such as lavender, yellow, and orange.
Jasper: This highly prized gemstone of the ancient world is still popular today. It’s found in many different colors, but each displays ribbons of color, which make it a favorite of lapidary artists, or jewelry stonecutters. Look for cabochons, pendants, and beads in various shapes made from this beautiful stone.
I use chunky brecciated (pronounced breh-chee-ay-ted) jasper nuggets to make the Statement Stone and Chain Bracelet on the DVD that accompanies the printed version of this book (and at http://booksupport.wiley.com for e-readers). Take a look at the video for a simple technique to make a bold accessory.
Lapis lazuli: This is a beautiful blue stone with flecks of pyrite infused throughout. The darker the color, the higher the quality of the lapis lazuli. It looks really nice when combined with southwestern-related stones such as malachite and turquoise. I personally prefer to pair lapis lazuli with sterling silver, rather than gold, findings and spacers.
Mother-of-pearl: This is actually a form of shell, and while it’s available in its natural color (a mixture of beiges), most beaders like to use the white variety of mother-of-pearl beads, which have been bleached to a pearly white color. If you want the look of pearls without the price, these are a good economical alternative to consider.
Peridot: The birthstone for those born in August, peridot is a form of olivine, and its richest deposits come from the island of Zagbargad. Legends claim that this pale green stone was a favorite of Cleopatra.
Rock crystal: Clear quartz is commonly called rock crystal. Though it can be found in a number of different types of beads, including beautiful pendants, it’s also very popular as chip beads, which are (as the name implies) small chips of stone with holes in them.
Rose quartz: Very often rose quartz, which is a light pink, is color-treated because in its natural form it’s a very pale pink color. As with most quartz stones, you don’t want to leave it in bright light or the color will fade.
Serpentine: In bead form, serpentine is usually light green, but this stone also comes in yellow, brown, and black. It’s mined all over the world, including in Italy, Canada, and Russia.
Tanzanite: Tanzanite is named after the location where it was discovered, Tanzania in East Africa. It’s a beautiful purple color with overtones of blue. Tanzanite is tough to get and extremely expensive because civil war has ravaged Tanzania for decades. If you want the look of tanzanite, look for other stones, like zoisite, that are heated to create a version of tanzanite.
Tiger’s eye: Tiger’s eye is an earthy-colored stone with streaks of light to dark brown and golden yellows throughout. A few areas in which it is found include Australia, South Africa, and North America. This is an excellent stone to use with natural fibers such as leather and hemp.
Tourmaline: The term tourmaline doesn’t refer to one type of stone but rather a group of ten different minerals. When purchasing tourmaline beads, you’ll find them most often available in pink, orangey red, blues, and green. Tourmaline is beautiful in pendants and earrings.
Turquoise: Turquoise is used in much of the jewelry made in the Southwest, which is understandable because deposits of turquoise are located across the western part of the United States. Because it is a soft, porous stone, many turquoise beads are labeled as “stabilized,” meaning the turquoise has been treated with resin to help keep the stone from breaking apart when it is carved into beads and other shapes.
While beauty is in the eye of the beholder, the actual identification of a gemstone is not. Scientists and jewelers send stones through rigorous tests to identify and classify them, to make sure that if it looks like a citrine and walks like a citrine, it is actually a citrine.
If some of the stones in this list are outside your budget, consider looking for glass versions that mimic the patterns and colors you like. They are often priced much lower but still look professional and beautiful. But remember, you can’t sell them as the genuine article if they’re glass. Check out the next section, Choosing stone components, for tips on how to make good purchases.
Choosing stone components
A component is a bead, charm, or small piece of a larger jewelry piece. Don’t be confused by terms thrown around in bead and gem stores to describe stones. Gemstones can be called natural, genuine, simulated, synthetic, composite, or any combination of these terms.
Here’s the key to understanding common gemstone terms before buying stone components and gemstones:
Natural gemstones are just that, 100 percent natural. They may have been cut and polished, but other than that, their beauty was created without interference from humans. Natural gemstones haven’t been treated, heated, dyed, or otherwise altered by people.
Genuine gemstones start out as natural gemstones, but they may have been treated to enhance their appearance. For example, they may have been treated with heat or radiation to change or enhance their color, or small cracks in them may have been filled with epoxy, resin, or wax. (It’s the gemological equivalent of filling dings in your car’s windshield.) When any of these treatments have been applied, they are no longer natural gemstones. They are still real gems, but not natural gems.
Treating gemstones isn’t a fraudulent practice. It’s recognized as a legitimate procedure in the industry. Treatments allow more of us to own gemstones because it rescues stones that would otherwise not be sellable. If naturally “perfect” stones were the only ones available, most people couldn’t afford them.
Simulated gemstones are sometimes called imitation stones. These stones are usually made from glass that’s colored to mimic the genuine article. They can be a beautiful addition to any jewelry piece at a fraction of the cost. Watch out for simulated stones mounted in a setting that may have either foil or paint behind it, to change its appearance. Ask the jeweler about the mounting, and if you have any doubts, have the jeweler remove the mounting so you can examine the stone on its own. A cubic zirconia, or CZ, is an example of a simulated stone.
Synthetic gemstones are grown in a lab. In fact, they’re sometimes called lab-grown stones. They aren’t dug out of the ground. They are created by heating minerals and components to precise temperatures. Synthetic gemstones share the same physical, chemical, and optical properties of natural gemstones. In fact, in order to use the synthetic label, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) requires that the stone be identical in every way to the natural version. Many synthetic gems are tough to detect unless you’re an expert.
A composite stone is a smaller piece or slice of a desirable, genuine stone that’s been combined with a larger chunk of an inexpensive or imitation gemstone. In the case of opals, sometimes thin slices of opal are placed on top of cheaper quartz pieces. These stones can be beautiful; just make sure you know what you’re getting and pay an appropriate price for it.
Not all genuine stones are valuable. Poor quality stones are lurking out there (at inflated prices), so beware. Get the facts about a specific gem before you buy it. Buy pricey gemstones labeled natural only from an experienced jeweler or store you trust. If you’re buying a stone for its beauty rather than its traditional value, let your eye be your guide: If the price seems fair and you like the stone, go for it.
As in any other industry, supply and demand drives gemstone prices up and down. While every stone and bead is different, you can expect to pay from $5 to $200 for a 16-inch strand of 5–6mm polished round natural gemstone beads or chips and $3 to $10 for an imitation strand. If you are not set on a particular stone but want a particular color, you can still create a gemstone necklace at a reasonable price. Refer to Table 3-3 for tips on stone substitutions to get the look you love for a lot less.
Sourcing Your Beads, Pearls, and Stones
If you haven’t already done so, soon you’ll want to start acquiring your own personal stash of beads, stones, gems, and pearls. Take it from me, it’s addicting. And to feed that addiction — er, I mean hobby — thousands of stores, websites, and catalogs market to beaders, jewelry makers, and crafters of all ages and abilities. My best advice is to start out small and get a feel for what kinds of beads you want to work with, what kinds of projects you want to make, and what design elements work for your projects. Check out the following sections for my tips on finding and buying your beads in many different locations.
Finding beads in stores
Get started by going to your local bead store, bead show, or crafts fair. Check out the beads, stones, and pearls. Take your time, touch the beads, feel their weight, and check out the variations in color and quality. Browse the bins of loose beads and pendants; run your fingers through the dangling strands. Look through the glass cabinets and view the expensive stuff. If you’re like me, in no time, you’ll be a bead nut.
Michaels (www.michaels.com), Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft (www.joann.com), and Hobby Lobby (www.hobbylobby.com) are national crafts store chains that devote entire sections of their stores and websites to beading and jewelry making. Along with all the necessary tools and storage things you need, they carry packets and strands of semi-precious stones and freshwater pearls, as well as plenty of simulated glass and plastic beads for fun. They are a great resource if you just want a small quantity to try things out.
When selecting individual beads, look for focal point pieces for your creations and choose items that appeal to you. You may see an individual bead in the store and have it inspire your design. So, walk around bead stores. Check out the carved quartz or jade pendants, Italian glass rosettes, faceted briolettes, and crystal or gemstone drops. Refer to Figure 3-4 for a representation of different shapes and cuts of stones. And be sure to check out the Identifying man-made beads section earlier in this chapter for information on the different kinds of beads available and my recommendations for how to use them.
Buying in bulk via the Internet
When you’re ready to do some serious buying and feel confident about what you want, it’s always cheaper (and more convenient) to buy in bulk. If you’re buying from a website, many have free shipping with a $50 to $100 minimum order, so buying in bulk can pay off. You can often get more beads at a lower price per bead, plus you often save on the shipping costs.
Let’s say you design jewelry using primarily crystals and pearls. Consider buying the following items in bulk:
Clear AB crystals of any size (but get as many 4mm and 6mm as you can afford, because smaller quantities of these sizes get expensive very quickly)
Pearls, both cultured and faux, in a variety of shapes and colors
Findings, including jump rings, earwires, headpins, crimp beads, clasps, and any other basics (see Chapter 2)
Miscellaneous beads, plus glass beads, seed beads, and metal spacer beads, in neutral colors and shapes
Stringing materials, including metal wire and nylon thread (See Chapter 2 for ideas)
Consider your own projects and designs when you make your own list of items to buy in bulk. If you are interested in honing your skills in Native American jewelry, purchasing some turquoise beads in bulk, for example, may be a perfect solution for you.
Avoiding common mistakes: Take it easy!
Just because it’s cheaper to buy in bulk doesn’t mean you have to buy more than you need, so measure out what your needs are first! If you’re starting a jewelry-making business, find a balance with your cash flow (the amount of money coming in versus the amount of money going out). Because jewelry making and beading is so fun, it’s easy to forget that you need to sell your creations to get money to buy more supplies. For more information on starting a jewelry business, take a gander at Chapter 16.
If you order something and change your mind, consider saving it for later. You may need it. But if you really hate it, by all means send it back fast, before you lose track of it in your growing beading inventory.
Buyer beware. Many items, especially beads, may not be returnable, so choose a reputable vendor and ask about its return and refund policy before giving your credit card number. Ask if the vendor refunds shipping costs as well. Many vendors don’t, even if they do accept returned merchandise.
Keep all your beads in the original packaging until you’re sure you are keeping them. It’s tough to sort through subtle size and color differences among beads after they get mixed up, and most bead vendors won’t take returns if you’ve opened the bulk packaging.
As always on the Internet, make sure the website you visit offers a secure order form before you give any personal information. If it makes you feel more comfortable, get the customer service number from the website and call them directly. I have used many of the vendors listed in this book, and they offer great service.
If you have a bead budget, stick to it. Promise you’ll only spend $50 and no more because like anything else, jewelry making can be addictive. Take it from a bead nut!
Getting the most for your money
Buying in bulk always gets you the best price; but again, don’t buy excessively more than you need. I don’t want to hear about the 10 metric tons of crystals sitting in your attic for the next half-century if you’re not going to at least enjoy them! (Worst case, your grandkids can always sell your beads on eBay.)
Always read the fine print in the catalog or on the website, or else call and ask customer service for details that could impact your buying. Many beads and stones look alike and have similar names, and it can be confusing. For example, hemalyke is the simulated (manmade) version of the natural semi-precious stone hematite. If you want (and pay for) the genuine article, make sure you get it.
Going to bead and gem shows
After your hobby kicks into high gear, visit a local bead show. If you’re traveling for business or pleasure, conduct an Internet search ahead of time to see if any shows are taking place in that area. And definitely don’t forget to look in jewelry- and bead-related magazines; most big shows post ads in them months ahead of time.
Going to shows is a great way to look for unusual or centerpiece beads. You get a chance to look at a wide variety of beads to find the perfect ones for future projects. Take a look at Project 3-2, Floating Stone Drop Necklace, later in the chapter for an easy way to use a perfect stone.
Finding shows
Finding shows may be easier than you think. Here are my ideas for finding them:
Do a search on the Internet for “bead and gem shows [your city]” and see what’s in your area.
Check out the events listings in your local paper; it may mention bead and gem shows. Sometimes the bead show is combined with an antiques mart, crafts fair, or art festival.
Look for updates and notices about shows in your local crafts and bead stores. Ask the staff for details.
The Tucson Gem and Mineral Show is the largest of its kind in the world. It's held over a long weekend every February. Check its website (http://tgms.org) for show dates and events.
International Bead and Gem Fest takes place in 30 cities across the country, with an estimated 80 shows annually. Check out the schedule at www.intergem.net.
Bead Fest (www.beadfest.com) is held four times a year in different cities in the United States. It combines a bead show with workshops, classes, and exhibits. Check the website for dates, locations, and detailed class descriptions.
Check out your local bead society. Conduct an Internet search for “bead society [your state]”. Many state bead societies have upcoming nearby shows listed on their websites.
Making the most of your time at the show
To avoid wasting time, check the show schedule guide and exhibit map before cruising the show floor. It’s beautiful to see so many gems in one place and fun to talk to all the distributors, but these shows can be massive and very tiring, so plan your route and have fun.
Sometimes ads and websites for the shows offer coupons to print from your computer or cut out from the paper. You may score reduced admission, a free bag of crystals, or a storage jar for your beads. Go to the show early to see the fullest inventory.
Project 3-2: Floating Stone Drop Necklace
For something dramatic but understated, a floating stone drop necklace is an easy project to create, something fun to wear, and an item you’ll have for a long time.
Depending on your budget and level of confidence, choose any size stone as your centerpiece, such as a 2-inch smooth aventurine or a faceted rose quartz briolette, with a center-drilled hole. Choose a stone with a large enough hole to accommodate a double thickness of your stringing material. Check out Figure 3-11 to see the finished project.
Tools and Materials
1 flat-nose pliers
Scissors
Satin cord, silk ribbon, or thin leather cord, cut to desired necklace length
1 large center-drilled center stone (use a bead reamer if thread or cord doesn’t fit through hole)
1 large (but smaller than the center stone) accent bead, also center-drilled
1. Thread one side of the cord through the smaller accent bead. I used a silver bead and leather cord in my project. Situate the bead so that the cord is evenly divided on both sides of the bead. See Figure 3-10a.
2. Thread two sides of the cord through the large center bead so that the small bead sits directly underneath the larger center bead and both sides of the cord are equal length. See Figure 3-10b.
Illustration by Wiley, Composition Services Graphics
Figure 3-10: Situating your beads.
3. Secure the cord around the toggle clasp by tying and knotting it. Trim away any excess cord.
4. Close the clasps, put the necklace around your neck, and feel the calming energy take effect.
Photograph by Matt Bowen
Figure 3-11: Floating Stone Drop Necklace.