How TO
GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR yard

The first step to horticultural know-how is gaining an understanding of your soil as well as your “hardiness zone.” These factors will determine what you can grow and how best to go about doing it.

Know Your Soil

Soil is a blend of mineral (or rock) particles in different sizes—ranging from coarse sands to finer silts and clays—combined with an amount of organic matter. The soil in each garden is unique, and it determines how moisture is absorbed and retained, how easily roots can grow into the earth, and the supply of vital plant nutrients present.

The composition and texture of soil is one of many factors to consider. For example:

• Extremely sandy soil will not hold water or nutrients well.
• If soil is dense in clay, it will be difficult to work and your plants will struggle.
• A loamy mix (roughly equal amounts of sand, clay, and silt) is the best environment for growing most plants (and also vegetables).

Test

A soil test will pinpoint any deficiencies and indicate which nutrients will turn the soil into a good growing medium (called fertile). It can also tell you the soil’s pH. You can perform a test yourself using an inexpensive kit, or contact your local cooperative extension for assistance or to find a service to do it for you (sometimes for free).

The ideal pH for your soil depends on your plants:

• Most vegetables, flowers, and turfs prefer slightly acidic to neutral soils (pH 6 to 7).
• Rhododendrons, azaleas, hollies, and magnolias flourish in moderately acidic soil (pH 5 to 6).
• Soils in rainy areas tend to be acidic, while those in arid regions are sometimes more alkaline, or basic. Applying lime is one way to raise the pH (making the soil less acidic); applying sulfur lowers the pH.

Remedy deficiencies

Adding organic matter generally makes the soil looser and airier, which enhances its ability to absorb water. As a result, the soil will retain necessary nutrients as well as moisture between waterings. While organic matter occurs naturally in soil, you can supplement that by adding compost, available at garden supply stores and nurseries—or by making your own (see pages 208–209).

Feed

Fertilizers are used to boost the soil’s nutrient content. Overfeeding or supplying the wrong balance of nutrients can be more harmful than not fertilizing at all.

• When shopping, check the three-number ratio on the label, such as 5-10-5 or 10-10-10. This describes the content by percentage of the three principal plant nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (often abbreviated as NPK).
• Use liquid fertilizers for a quick boost; granular ones break down more slowly, providing a more gradual, long-lasting release.

Protect

Mulch is a porous layer of material that, when spread a couple inches thick on soil, keeps weeds at bay, locks in moisture, prevents erosion, and boosts the quality of the soil (without the need for harsh chemicals). It also keeps the soil cool and moist in warm weather, cutting down on the need for watering. Mulch comes in many forms, including shredded bark, pine needles, and gravel—all sold at garden centers. Larger-grade mulch works best under trees and shrubs, finer grades for perennial and vegetable beds.

Know Your Zone

Professional and home gardeners alike rely on the USDA’s plant hardiness zone map (available online) to identify which plants thrive in their locations. The zones on the map indicate temperature. Generally, you can confidently grow plants that are hardy in your zone. In protected spots of the yard, you may push the limits to a zone or so less hardy, but you chance that the plants may not survive the winter.