the stuffing (or dressing)

Stuffing cooks inside the bird; dressing bakes in a dish. Stuffed birds take longer to cook but will have more flavor from the stuffing. Dressing develops a crispy topping during baking—and there’s none of the worry about food safety; you can also make it ahead.

classic options: Here are just three of the most traditional versions to try.

• Sausage stuffing: A great all-purpose option that’s made with day-old bread (sandwich bread, baguette, challah) and chock-full of sausage, herbs, and apples or pears (and sometimes chestnuts). This is the one to cook in the bird, as it gets very moist and flavorful.
• Cornbread dressing: This Southern staple is typically baked outside the bird. Bake the cornbread with nuts and dried fruit mixed right in, then freeze it up to a month. The day of, toss with aromatics and bake in a buttery dish. (Vegetarians will thank you.)
• Oyster dressing: For the characteristic crunch, cook this in a shallow layer, never inside the bird. It’s traditionally made with saltines—and a must-have on many tables throughout the Northeast and New England.

food-sAfety concerns: Because you are starting the stuffing in a raw turkey, you must heed certain steps to ensure proper cooking.

• Always allow stuffing to come to room temperature before putting inside cavity, and do so right before putting the turkey in the oven.
• Avoid overstuffing. A 12- to 15-pound turkey can hold 8 to 10 cups of stuffing; a 16- to 20-pound bird can hold up to 12 cups.
• The stuffing needs to reach 165°F; if doing so means the bird will be overcooked, remove the bird from the oven when it is ready, then scoop stuffing right away into a greased baking dish to cook until it is a safe temperature.
• If you cook the stuffing inside the turkey for the duration, wait 20 minutes before removing it from the bird; this will allow the temperature to continue rising.

The Sides

Lean toward ease and contrasting tastes, textures, and colors—and seasonal flavors.

A good formula to follow is one or two of each of the following: green vegetables (Brussels sprouts and green beans, for example); starchy vegetables (such as mashed potatoes and roasted squash wedges); and sweet-tart cranberry relishes and other fruit chutneys.

The Pies

For many people, the pies are what they are most thankful for. Here are some easy ways to tweak the all-time favorites.

crust: Instead of a rolled-out pie dough, make a less fussy press-in-the-pan crumb crust with crushed gingersnaps for pumpkin pie, chocolate wafers or pecan sandies for pecan pie, and buttery shortbread for apple.

filling: For pumpkin pie, use pureed flesh from a roasted pumpkin or other squash (butternut or kabocha) in place of the canned variety. For apple pie, line the pie shell with sea-salted caramel before adding the fruit; use melted dark chocolate to line pecan pie.

topping: Infuse heavy cream with cinnamon sticks, cardamom pods, or star anise; chill before whipping. Or sweeten the cream with maple syrup in place of sugar while beating.

Gravy 101

1. While turkey is resting, pour pan drippings into a fat separator; let stand until fat rises to surface. (Or use a large glass measuring cup and skim fat from top with a spoon.)

2. Bring 1½ cups stock to a boil in roasting pan over two burners, scraping up browned bits from bottom of pan with a wooden spoon. Whisk together another 1 cup stock and 3 tablespoons flour; stir into pan. Boil until thickened and reduced, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in defatted pan juices; cook until heated through. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot, in a gravy boat.