Iowa to the Columbia River Amelia Knight
INTRODUCTION
Saturday, Sept. 17 — In camp yet. Still raining. Noon. It has cleared off and we are all ready for a start again for some place we don’t know where. Evening. Came 6 miles and have encamped in a fence corner by a Mr. Lambert’s about 7 miles from Milwaukie. Turn our stock out to tolerably good feed.
A few days later my eighth child was born. After this we picked up and ferried across the Columbia River, utilizing a skiff, canoes and flatboat. It took 3 days. Here husband traded 2 yoke of oxen for a half section of land with ½ acre planted to potatoes, a small log cabin and lean-to with no windows. This is the journey’s end.
The above quotation from Amelia Knight’s “diary” was used by us in the introduction to this set of books in Volume I, page 12. We used it to illustrate the fact of pregnancy in the lives of women traveling overland, and it has been one of the most quoted statements about the overland journey by others as well. We estimate that we have used it in 8o-some speeches. It is magnificent! It is also incorrect.
The second paragraph in the quotation simply does not appear in the original manuscript which is in the University of Washington Library; however it is to be found in all heretofore printed copies.1 This means that some time between September 17, 1853, and 1928, when it was printed in the Transactions of the Oregon Pioneer Association, the extra paragraph was added.
The question arises, “Who wrote it?” We think it was not Amelia Knight herself because of all people she would know that the baby was born not “a few days later,” but the very next day, on September 18, 1853.
This corrected rendering of the diary in no way denigrates Lillian Schlissel’s statement: “What is not mentioned at all is the fact of another pregnancy. The diary must be read with this unstated fact in mind.”2
The lesson for all of us who do serious research in history is that one must always seek the original of any document. A copy, either in typescript or in print, cannot take the place of the actual primary document, whether diary or letter.
Amelia Stewart was a young lady from Boston, who, at age 17 met a young English-born medical student, age 26. They were married on September 18, 1834. Joel Knight had worked for some years as a traveling hatter when he decided to become a doctor.
Over the following years the family made two great moves westward: First they moved to the vicinity of Vernon, Van Buren County, Iowa, in March 1837. Their farm was on the south shore of the Des Moines River near the southeast corner of Iowa, which became a new state in 1846. They lived a short distance north of what became the Mormon Trail from Koekuk to Council Bluffs (Kanesville), i.e. from the Mississippi to the Missouri rivers. They must have seen thousands of travelers with their wagons on the trail in the years that they lived in Van Buren County.
When Amelia wrote her first journal entry on Saturday, April 1, 1853, the family was just beginning the long journey from the south shore of the Des Moines River to the north shore of the Columbia in the newly-named Territory of Washington. This new political entity was established by Act of Congress on February 10, 1853. The Knights began their journey west by following what was already called “The Old Mormon Trail.”
When Joel and Amelia settled on their new claim in Iowa in 1837, they already had one child, Plutarch, who was born in Boston on October 21, 1836. Over the next sixteen years in their new midwest home six more children were born. There were seven, therefore, who traveled over the Oregon Trail. When Amelia made her first diary entry on April 9th, she was three months pregnant. One might say that she had her hands full.
We are grateful to the University of Washington Library for making a photocopy of Amelia Knight’s original diary available to us. The firm, clear handwriting is so easy to read that we could copy it directly. There is a note with the photocopied diary from Dr. Edmond S. Meany, Professor of History, written to Chatfield Knight, telling him how careful the University would be with such an original manuscript. This note is dated October 13, 1934. There is another handwritten note appended which says “Chat Knight — aged 84, died 1934 — requested that diary and desk be given to the University of Wash, in response to letter written by Prof. Meany in 1934.”
We would also like to thank the Clark County Historical Museum, Vancouver, Washington, and particularly David Freece, museum director, and Lesla Scott, librarian, who have both been helpful.
Mrs. Mary Craine of Vancouver, a descendant of the Knights, has been encouraging and has gladly approved of our publishing of Amelia Knight’s journal.
CHILDREN WHO WENT WEST
WITH AMELIA AND JOEL KNIGHT:
Plutarch Stewart Knight (Oct. 21, 1836-Jan. 29, 1915), was age 17 in 1853. He was a big help to his father with the work of the wagon train. He attended Willamette University in Salem and later became a well-known Congregational minister. He was pastor of the First Congregational Church in Salem from 1867 to 1883. Knight Memorial Church in Salem is named after him. He and Eleanor Smith were married on April 21, 1861. He served as editor of the Oregon Statesman newspaper for a period. He also was Director of the Oregon School for the Deaf. Oregon Statesman Illustrated Annual, (Salem, 1893), p. 17; H.O. Lang, History of the Willamette Valley (Portland, 1885), p. 809.
Seneca Knight (1838-Jan. 8, 1873), was age 15 in 1853. Amelia characterizes him with the words, “Seneca, dont stand there, with your hands in your pockets, get your saddles and be ready.” He became a farmer and stockman. He was evidently a single man and died at the home of his mother.
Frances Amelia Knight (1841-April 1, 1927), was 14-years-old in 1853. She married a widower, Nathan Pearcy, a Virginian, in 1865. There were two small children by his first wife, Fanny. They were Fanny, age 7, and Nathan, Jr., age 5. Pearcy moved her into his beautiful home on Pearcy Island, at the confluence of the Willamette and Columbia rivers. They lived there until moving to Portland in “about 1879.” They had famous peach orchards and livestock on their river-bottom with its rich alluvial soil. But the floods came, and the homestead went back to bulrushes. There was still enough of the house left in 1928 for the Portland Oregonian to run a story in its Mar. 25 edition, “Old, Forlorn Pearcy Home Once Scene of Happiness.” Nathan died in Portland on May 30, 1903. Frances lived on for another 24 years, and died also in Portland.
Jefferson Knight (1842-Oct. 18, 1867), was 11-years-old in 1853. He took up farming with his father on their donation land claim on the north bank of the Columbia, ten miles up the river from Vancouver, Wash. He died of drowning in the river near the homestead.
Lucy Jane Knight (1845-May 15, 1877), was age 8 in 1853. She started the long journey with the mumps (entry for April 11). Lucy and Almira were filled with fear when they saw the first Indians on Apr. 29 and ran to hide in the wagon. She was lost on Aug. 8, having wandered behind the wagon train. Emigrants in another train picked her up and returned the frightened little girl to her family. In 1865 Lucy married an energetic Swiss steamboatman and boat builder, John Jacob Wintler, who came to the Vancouver area via the Panama Canal route in 1857. She lived for only 12 years after her marriage. In that time she bore 6 children.
Almira L. Knight (1848–?), age 5 in 1853; grew up in Clark Co., Wash.; married W.B. Patterson.
Chatfield Knight (1851-Dec. 27, 1934), age 2. Received much attention from his mother on the westward journey. She mentions him being sick and how he “fell out of the wagon, but did not get hurt much,” (July 17). He lived a long life in Washington State and donated the diary to the University of Washington, Library.
Wilson Carl Knight (Sept. 18, 1853-Sept. 6, 1886), was the baby born near the Lambert farm, just out of Milwaukie, Oreg., at the end of the westward journey. There is a handwritten note in the Clark County, Washington, Historical Museum saying that he had been of delicate health over much of his early life and went to New York for special treatment. It seemed to help as his health improved. In New York State he married Esther Nelson. He inherited the family homestead on the bank of the Columbia, ten miles upstream from Vancouver. He died of consumption on Sept. 6, 1886.
There was another son, Adam, who was born in 1855 and lived until 1928.
THE DIARY
Saturday April 9th 1853. Started from home about 11 oclock, and travel 8 miles and camp in an old house, night cold and frosty —
10, Sunday M, Cool and pleasant, roads hard and dusty, evening came 18½ miles and camp close to Mr Fulkersons house
11, M. morn, Cloudy and signs of rain, about 10 o’clock it begins to rain, at noon it rains so hard we turn out, and camp in a School house after traveling 11½ miles, rains all the afternoon, and all night very unpleasant, Jefferson and Lucy have the mumps, poor cattle bawl all night
12, T, morn, Warm and sultry, still cloudy, road, very muddy, travel 10 miles and camp in Soap creek bottom creek bank full, have to wait till it falls —
13 W, Noon, Fair weather, have to overhaul all the wagons and dry things, Evening still in camp
14th Quite cold little one crying with cold feet, sixteen wagons all getting ready to cross the creek, hurry and bustle and get breakfast over, feed the cattle, and tumble things into the wagons, hurrah boys all ready, we will be the first to cross the creek this morning, gee up tip and tyler1 and away we go the sun just rising Evening we have traveled 24 miles to day, and are about to camp in a large prairie without wood, cold and chilly east wind, the men have pitched the tent, and are hunting something to make a fire, to get supper, I have the sick headache and must leave the boys to get it themselves the best they can —
15th Cold and cloudy wind still east bad luck last night, three of our horses get away, supper they have gone back, one of the boys have gone back after them, and we are going on slowly Evening Henry has come back with the horses all right again, came 17 miles to day roads very bad and muddy cold and cloudy all day it is begining to rain, the boys have pitched the tent, and I must get supper —
16th Campt last night 3 miles east of Chariton point in the prairie, made our beds down in the tent in the wet and mud, bed clothes nearly spoiled. Cold and cloudy this morning, and every body out of humour, Seneca is half sick, Plutarch has broke his saddle girth, Husband is scolding, and hurriing all hands (and the cook) and Almira says She wishes she was home, and I say ditto, Home sweet home — Evening we passed a small town this morning called Charitan point, the sun shone a little this affternoon came 24 miles to day, and have pitched our tent in the prairie again, and have some hay to put under our beds, corn one dollar per bushel, feed for our stock cost 16 dol, to night —
17th Sunday It is warm and pleasant, we are on our way again traveling over some very pretty rolling prairie, corn is up to 3 dollars a bushel, travel 20 miles to day, and have campt in the prarie, no wood to cook with, have to eat cold supper, have the good luck to find corn at 80 cts a bushel
18th, Cold breakfast the first thing, very disagreeable weather, wind east, cold and rainy, no fire, we are on a very large prarie, no timber to be seen as far as the eye can reach, Evening have crossed several very bad streams to day, and more than once have been stuck in the mud, we pass Pisga this afternoon, and have just crossed Grand river, and will camp in a little bottom, plenty of wood, and we will have some warm supper I guess came 22 miles to day, my head aches, but the fire is kindled and I must make some tea, that will help it, if not cure it —
19th, Still damp and cloudy, corn very scarse and high travel 20 miles and camp.
20th Cloudy, We are creeping along slowly, one wagon after another, the same old gait, and the same thing over out of one mud hole and into another all day crossed a branch where the water run into the wagons, no corn to be had within 75 miles, came 18 miles and camp
21st Rained all night, is still raining I have just counted 17 wagons traveling ahead of us in the mud and water, no feed for our poor stock to be got at any price, have to feed them flour and meal travel 22 miles today —
22nd Still bad weather, no sun, traveling on mile after mile in the mud, travel 21 miles and cross Nishnabotna and camp on the bank of it
23rd Still in camp, it rained hard all night, and blew a hurrican almost, all the tents were blown down, and some wagons capsized, Evening it has been raining hard all day, every thing is wet and muddy, One of the oxen missing, the boys have been hunting him all day. Dreary times, wet and muddy, and crowded in the tent, cold and wet and uncomfortable in the wagon no place for the poor children, I have been busy cooking, roasting coffe &c to day, and have came into the wagon to write this and make our bed —
24th Sunday, The rain has ceased, and the sun shines a little, must stay in camp and dry the bed clothes no feed for the stock but what little grass they can pick, after noon found the ox, and lost our muley cow must wait and find her
25th Rather cold but the sun shines once more, still feeding the cattle and horses on flour, one of our horses badly foundered, On our way again at last, found our cow with a young calf, had to leave the calf behind then travel on a while, and came to a very bad sideling bridge to cross over a creek, came 18 miles —
26th Cold and clear found corn last night at 2 dollars a bushel, paid 12 dollars for about half a feed for our stock, I can count 20 wagons winding up the hill ahead of us, travel 20 miles and camp —
27th A nice spring morning, warm and pleasant the road is covered with wagons and cattle, paid $2, 40cts for crossing a bridge, travel 25 miles to day and camp on a creek (called keg) about 10 miles from the Bluffs —
28th Still in camp, pleasant weather, we will stay here a few days to rest and recruit our cattle, wash cook ect.
29th Cool and pleasant, saw the first indians to day Lucy and almira afraid and run into the wagon to hide, Done some washing and sewing to day —
30th Fine weather spent this day in washing, baking and overhauling the wagons, several more wagons have campt around us
Sunday May 1st Still fine weather, wash and scrub all the Children
2nd Pleasant evening, have been cooking, and packing things away for an early start in the morning, threw away several jars, some wooden buckets, and all our pickels too unhandy to carry, Indians came to our camp every day begging money and something to eat children are getting used to them
3rd Fine weather, Leave Loudenback and his team this morning, and are on our way again, travel 6 or 7 miles and camp on pony creek, here Plutarch is taken sick
4th Weather fair, travel 4 miles to day passed through Kanesvill, and camp in a lane, not far from the Missouri river, and wait our turn to cross no feed for the stock, have to buy flour at 3½ per hundred to feed them
5th We crossed the river this morning on a large steamboat called the Hindoo,2 after a great deal of hurrahing and trouble to get the cattle all aboard, one ox jumpt overboard, and swam across the river, and come out like a drowned rat The river is even with its banks, and the timber in it, which is mostly cotton wood is quite green, Cost us 15 dollars to cross, after bidding Iowa a kind farewell, we travel 8 miles and camp about noon among the old ruins of the Mormon Town3 we here join another company, which will make in all 24 men, 10 wagons, and a large drove of cattle have appointed a Captain, and are now prepared to guard the stock, 4 men watch 2 hours, and then call up 4 more, to take their places, so by that means no person can sleep about the camp, such a wild noisy set was never heard.
6th Pleasant, we have just passed the Mormon graveyard,4 there is a great number of graves on it, the road is covered with wagons and cattle, here we passed a train of wagons on their way back, the head man had been drowned a few days before, in a river called Elk horn while getting some cattle across, and his wife was lying in the wagon quite sick, and children were mourning for a father gone and with sadness, and pitty, I passed those who perhaps a few days before had been well and happy as ourselves, came 20 miles to day, —
7th Cold morning, thermometer down to 48 in the wagon no wood, only enough to boil some coffee, good grass for the stock, we have just crossed a small creek, with a narrow indian bridge across it, paid the indians 75 cnts too, my hands are numb with cold — Evening travel 23 miles and camp on Elk horn bottom close to the river, it is very high and dangerous to cross —
8th Sunday morning. Still in camp waiting to cross, there are three hundred or more wagons in sight, and as far as the eye can reach, the bottom is covered, on each side of the river, with cattle and horses, there is no ferry here, and the men will have to make one out of the tightest wagon bed, (every camp should have a water proof wagon bed for this purpose) every thing must now be hauled out of the way head over heels (and he that knows where to find any thing will be a smart fellow) then the wagons must be all taken to pieces, and then by means of a strong rope stretched across the river, with the tight wagon bed atached to the middle of it, the rope must be long enough to pull from one side to the other, with men on each side of the river to pull it, and in this way we have to cross every thing a little at a time, women and children last, and then swim the cattle and horses, there were three horses and some cattle drowned at this place yesterday while crossing, It is quite lively and merry here this morning, and the weather fine, we are campt on a large bottom, with the broad deep river on one side of us, and a high bluff on the other
9th Morning cold within 4 degrees of freezing, we are all on the right side of the river this morning it took the men all day yesterday to get every thing across which they did all safe by working hard, we are now on our way again Evening we have driven a good ways out of the road to find grass and camp after traveling 22 miles
10th Cold thermometer down to 30 in the wagon ground froze last night, came 20 miles and camp.
11th Evening, it has been very dusty, yesterday and to day the men all have their false eyes5 to keep the dust out, we are traveling up platte river bottom, the north side we have been near the river several times, it is a beautiful river about a mile across, full of Islands and sand bars as far as the eye can reach the road is covered with teams Plutarch is well and able to drive, came 23 miles
12th Thursday noon, beautiful weather, but very dusty, we are campt on the bank of Loop [Loup] fork waiting our turn to cross, there are 2 ferry boats running, and a number of wagons ahead of us, all waiting to cross, have to pay 3 dol a wagon, 3 wagons, and swim the stock, travel 12 miles to day, we hear there are seven hundred teams on the road ahead of us, evening wash, and cook this afternoon, —
13th It is thundering and bids fair for rain, crossed the river very early this morning before breakfast, got breakfast over after a fashion, sand all around us ankle deep, wind blowing, no matter hurry it over, them that eat the most breakfast, eat the most sand, we are all moving again slowly — Evening came 24 miles to day, finding we can get along faster and more comfortable alone, we left all company this morning and have campt alone, our company passed us while at supper and said good evening, and campt a little ahead of us —
14th Had a fine rain last night, laid the dust, cool, and the sun shines this morning, we see very few indians, did not see more than a dozen Pawnees, we are now in the Souis country, passed the sand bluffs, travel 5 miles and obliged to stop and camp on the prairie near a large pond of watter, on acount of the high winds and some rain, wind so high that we dare not make a fire, impossible to pitch the tent, the wagons can hardly stand the wind, all that can find room are crowded into the wagons, those that cant have to stay out in the storm, some of the boys lost their hats
15th Sunday morn, Cool and pleasant after such a storm, travel 18 miles and camp —
16th Evening we have had all kinds of weather to day this morning was dry dusty and sandy, this afternoon it rained hailed and the wind was very high, have been traveling all the afternoon in mud and water up to the hubs, broke chains, and stuck in the mud several times, the men and boys are all wet and muddy, hard times but they say misery loves company, we are not alone on the bare plaines, it is covered with cattle and wagons, we have come to another muddy branch, we will cross it and find a camping place, good grass for the stock and thats one good luck we have, travel about 20 miles, the wind is getting higher
17th Tuesday morning, we had a dreadful storm of rain and hail last night, and very sharp lightning, it killed 2 oxen for one man, we had just encampt on a large flat prairie, when the storm commenced in all its fury, and in two minuets after the cattle were taken from the wagons, every brute was gone out of sight, cows, calves, horses all gone before the storm like so many wild beasts. I never saw such a storm the wind was so high, I thought is would tear the wagons to pieces, nothing but the stoutest covers could stand it, the rain beat into the wagons so that every thing was wet, and in less than two hours, the water was a foot deep all over our camping ground, as we could have no tent pitched, all hands had to crowd into the wagons and sleep in wet beds, with their wet clothes on, without supper, the wind blew hard all night, and this morning presents a dreary prospect, surrounded by water, and our saddles have been soaking in it all night and are almost spoiled, had little or nothing for breakfast our cow (rose) came up to be milked, the men took her track, and found the stock about 4 miles from camp, start on, and travel about two miles, and came to dry creek, so called because it is dry most of the year I should call it water creek now, as it is out of its banks and we will have to wait till it falls, no wood within 8 miles, raining by spells,—
18th Wen [Wed.], Still in camp, very high winds again last night blew some of the tents over, Cold and windy this morning and not a stick of wood to make a fire, trying to dry the bed clothes between showers, the creek is falling —
19th Thurs, morn, Clear, all getting ready to cross the creek afternoon crossed dry creek this morning and have traveled 10 miles, and come to wood creek, and are up a stump again, it is also very high, and we will have to cross it as we did Elkhorn, in a wagon bed, and swim the stock, just got things packed away nice this morning, now they must all be tumbled out again, well, there is plenty of wood, and I will spend the afternoon in cooking —
20th Friday morn, crossed wood creek last night, and got loaded up a little after dark, and drove out 3 or 4 miles where we found a good camping place, We are now traveling between Platte river and wood creek, plenty of water and grass, not much wood and that cotton wood travel 21 miles.
21st Sat, We have just crossed deep dry creek, it had a little muddy water in it, Very warm it is the first day the cattle have lolled, thermometer up to 92 in the wagon, good grass, bad water, and no wood, came 20 miles
22nd, Sunday, fine weather, crossing branches, and mud holes all day, traveled about 18 miles —
23rd, Monday the road is covered with droves of cattle, and wagpns, no end to them, dry and dusty all day, travel 20 miles and camp on the bank of Platte river, plenty of wood, by wading across to the islands for it,
24th Stay in camp to day, to wash and cook, as we have a good camping ground, plenty of wood, and water & good grass weather pleasant, I had the sick headache all night, some better this morning, must do a days work, husband went back a piece this morning in search of our dog, which he found, with some rascles who were trying to keep him,-—
25th Wendsday, It is raining, we have got our washing, and some cooking done, and with a bunch of wood tied on each wagon (for the purpose of making coffee, as we will not see wood again soon) we are ready for a start as soon as the rain holds up — evening it has been cold and rainy all day, only travel 12 miles and camp,—
26th Thursday Evening it rained all the fornoon, cleared off at noon, we started and traveled about 14 miles over marshy wet ground, while the team were creeping along I went up on a high bluff, and had a splendid view of platte and her beautiful timbered Islands
27th Friday Cloudy and wind cont. we are now traveling along the edge of platte, it is so wide here, we can just see timber the other side, it must be 2 miles across travel 20 miles to day —
28th Saturday travel 18 miles to day, over very sandy ground passed a lot of men skining a buffalo, we got a mess and cooked some for supper, it was very good and tender it is the first we have seen, dead or alive, —
29th Sunday quite warm, came 15 miles very sandy, and bad traveling for the cattle, it will be 175 miles before we see timber again, we haul a little dry wood along to make coffee and tea,—
30th Monday it has been cloudy and cool to day, and better roads, traveled 23 miles
31st Tuesday evening, travel 25 miles to day, when we started this morning, there were 2 large droves of cattle and about 50 wagons ahead of us, and we either had to stay poking behind them in the dust, or hurry up and drive past them, which was no fool of a job to be mixed up with several hundred head of cattle, and only one road to travel in, and the drivers threating to drive their cattle over you if you attempted to pass them, they even took out their pistols, husband came up just as one man held his pistol at Wilson Carl,6 and saw what the fuss was, and he said boys follow me, and he drove our team out of the road entierly, and the cattle seemed to understand it all, for they went in the trot most of the way, the rest of the boys followed with their teams, and the rest of the stock, I had rather a rough ride to be sure, but was glad to get away from such a lawless set, which we did by noon, the head teamster done his best by whiping and holloing to his cattle, he found it was no use and got up into his wagon to take it easy, we left some swearing men behind us, we drove a good ways ahead, and stopt to rest the cattle and eat some dinner, while we were eating we saw them coming, all hands jumpt for their teams, thinking saying they had earned the road too dearly to let them pass us again, and in a few moments we were all on the go again, very warm to day, thermomenter at 98 in the wagon at one oclock, toward evening there came up a light thunder storm which cooled the air down to 60, we are now within 100 miles of ft. Laramie,—
June 1st It has been raining all day long, and we have been traveling in it, so as to [be] able to keep ahead of the large droves, the men and boys are all soaking wet and look sad and comfortless, the little ones and myself are shut up in the wagons from the rain, still it will find its way in, and many things are wet, and take us all together we are a poor looking set and all this for Oregon. I am thinking while I write, Oh Oregon you must be a lovely country, came 18 miles to day
2nd Thursday morning. It has cleared off pleasant after the rain and all hands seem bright and cheerful again, we are going along the same old gait. Evening traveled 27 miles to day passed Court house rock, and chimney rock, both situated on the other side of the river, and have been in sight for several days, we have campt oposite chimney rock —
3rd Friday morn. We had another hard blow, and rain last night, looks some like clearing off this morning, Evening came 21 miles to day and have campt about oposite to Scotts bluffs, water very bad, have to use out of platte most of the time, it is very high and muddy —
4th Saturday More rain last night, is raining some to day, the roads are very bad, nothing but mud and water, came 16 m
5th Sunday Very warm. Slow traveling, several of the oxen have sore necks, caused by traveling in the rain, came 18 miles to day, and are campt near platte, where we have wood, and plenty of grass for the stock —
6th Monday. Still in camp, husband and myself being sick (caused we suppose by Drinking the river water, as it looks more like dirty suds, than anything else) we concluded to stay in camp, and each take a vomit, which we did, and are much better; the boys and myself have been washing some to day, the prickly pear grows in great abundance along this platte river road.—
7th Tuesday. Rained some last night, quite warm to day. Just passed fort Laramie, situated on the opposite side of the river; This afternoon we passed a large villiage of Siou indians, numbers of them came round our wagons, some of the women had moccasins, and beads, which they wanted to trade for bread. I gave the women and children all the cakes I had baked, husband traded a big indian a lot of hard crackers for a pair of moccasins, and after we had started on, he came up with us again, making a great fuss, and wanting them back (they had eat part of the crackers) he did not seem to be satisfied or else he wished to cause us some trouble, or perhaps get into a fight, however we handed the moccasins to him in a hurry, and drove away from them as soon as possible, several lingered along watching our horses that we tied behind the wagons, no doubt with the view of stealing them, but our folks kept a sharp lookout, till they left, we had a thunder storm of rain and hail, and a hard blow this afternoon, have traveled 18 miles, and are campt among the black hills, they are covered with Cedar, and pine wood, sand stone, lime stone, and pure water —
8th Wendsday It is a pleasant morning after the rain, every thing looks fresh and green, we are traveling through the black hills, over rocks, and stones, there is some splendid scenery here, beautiful vallies, and dark green clad hills, with their ledges of rock, and then far away over them you can see Larimie peak, with her snow capt top; evening came 16 miles to day, had another shower this afternoon, and have campt in a lovely spot, plenty of wood, water, and good grass
9th Thursday, came 18 miles to day; weather warm, had a slight shower in the afternoon, campt without wood or water, but good grass.—
10th Friday It has been very warm to day thermometer up to 99 at noon, traveled 21 miles over a very rough road, and have campt on the bank of the platte river, wild sage brush to burn, which makes a very good fire, when dry, very poor grass, here one of our hands left us (Benjamine Hughs)
11th Saturday, The last of the black hills, we traveled this forenoon over the roughest and most desolate piece of ground that was ever made (called by some the Devils grater) not a drop of water, not a spear of grass to be seen, nothing but barren hills, bare broken rocks, sand and dust, quite a contrast to the first part of these hills we reached platte river about noon, and our cattle were so crazy for water, that some of them plunged headlong into the river with their yokes on, travel 18 miles and camp —
12th Sunday morn, we are traveling on in the sand and dust it is very dusty, and the road is covered with teams and droves of cattle, the grass is very poor, mostly gone to seed — Evening came about 17 miles and have campt near the bank of platte, the boys have driven the cattle on to an Island where they can get grass, and I have just washed the dust out of my eyes so that I can see to get supper, —
13th Monday evening. This has been a long, hard days travel came 30 miles through sand and dust, and have campt opposite the old upper ferry on platte, tomorrow we will come to the first poison water, there will be no more good water for about 25 miles, we will also leave platte river in the morning for good —
14th Tuesday evening we started this morning at day break to travel our long, dry, dusty days travel, the dust and sand has been very bad — passed the Avenue rocks this afternoon, traveled 31 miles and are about to camp, there is not less than 150 wagons campt around us, but we have left most of the droves behind, and no end to the teams, had a great deal of trouble to keep the stock from drinking the poison or alkali water, it is almost sure to kill man or beast who drink it —
15th Wendsday came 19 miles to day, passed Independence rock this afternoon, and crossed Sweet water river on a bridge paid 3 dollars a wagon and swam the stock across, the river is very high and swift, there is cattle and horses drowned there every day; one cow went under the bridge and was drowned, while we were crossing belonging to another company, the bridge is very rickety and must soon break down, we are campt 2 miles this side of the bridge near the river. —
16th Thursday We are now traveling up sweet water valley between two mountains, one of them being covered with snow, sweet water is a clear cool and beautiful stream, and close to its margin lies the road, this morning we passed the devils gate, came 16 miles, and have campt on the bank of Sweet water, no wood, nor grass, on this side of the river
17th Friday Concluded to stay in camp and rest the cattle a day or two, swum the cattle and horses across the river where there is plenty of good feed, we also get our wood from the other side, the best swimmers go over, and cut a light cedar log, and swim back with it, have been sewing and cooking to day. the mosquitoes are very bad here cut the first cheese to day
18th Saturday Still in camp, overhauling the wagons, cooking sewing patching, ect, ect, had a very hard blow and a slight sprinkle of rain this afternoon —
19th Sunday. On our way again, traveling in the sand and dust sand ankle deep, hard traveling, came 18 miles and camp on the bank of sweet water again, and swim the cattle over to feed —
20th Monday evening, came 22 miles to day, passed good water once, passed a good deal of poison water, and have campt in the mountains weather warm and pleasant —
21st Tuesday evening, we have traveled over a very rough rocky road to day, over mountains, close to banks of snow. — had plenty of snow water to drink, husband brought me a large bunch of flowers, which he said was growing close to the snow, which was about six feet deep, travel 16 miles to day, and have campt on the mountains about seven miles from the summit, we are traveling through the south pass, the wind river mountains are off to our right, among them is Fremonts peak, they look romantic covered with snow.
22nd Wendsday morning, very cold water froze over in the buckets, thermometer down to 30, the boys have on their overcoats and mittens, Evening it snowed a little through the day, the road has been very dusty, but smooth and level as a turnpike came 18 miles and camp about ½ mile from the pacific springs we left sweet water this morning —
23rd Thursday, cold again this morning, water froze over, came 27 miles and campt on the bank [of] little Sandy river after dark
24th Friday noon, came from little Sandy, to big Sandy, 7 miles, and camp for a day or two to rest the stock, good grass, and water here, Henry Miller7 left us this morning we started with five hands, and have only two left —
25th Saturday Still in camp, washing, cooking, and sewing &c. Weather very pleasant —
26th Sunday morning, we are on our way again traveling in the dusty dust, we must go 17 miles or more without water or grass, evening all hands came into camp tired and out of heart, husband and myself sick, no feed for the stock, one ox lame, camp on the bank of big Sandy again —
27th Monday morn, Cold cloudy and very windy, more like November than June, I am not well enough to get out of the wagon this morning, the men have just got their breakfast over, and drove up the stock, all hurry and bustle, to get things in order, its children milk the cows all hands help yoke these cattle the d—Is in them, Plutarch: I cant I must hold the tent up, its blowing away, hurrah boys, who tends these horses; Seneca, dont stand there, with your hands in your pockets, get your saddles and be ready Evening, traveled 18 miles to day, and have campt on the bank of Green river, and must wait our turn to cross on a ferry boat, no grass for the poor cattle, all hands discouraged, We have taken in 2 new hands to day, which will make us full handed again, —
28th Tuesday evening, still in camp, waiting to cross nothing for the stock to eat, as far as the eye can reach it is nothing but a sandy desert, and the road is strewed with dead cattle, and the stench is awful, one of our best oxen too lame to travel, have to sell him for what we can get, to a native for 15 dollars; (all along this road we see white men living with the indians, many of them have trading posts, they are mostly french, and have squaw wives,) have to yoke up our muley cow in the ox’s place —
29th Wendsday morn, Cold and cloudy, the wagons are all crowded up to the ferry, waiting with impatience to cross, there are thirty or more to cross before us, have to cross one at a time, have to pay 8 dollars a wagon, 1 do for a horse or cow, we swim all our stock, Evening we crossed the river about 3 oclock, then traveled 10 miles, and campt close to slate creek, it is cold enough to sit by the fire —
30th Thursday evening. Traveled 20 miles to day, and have campt in the mountains, near a clear cold spring of good water, grass plenty, and dry sage brush to burn, the children have climed a mountain to see the sun set
July 1st Friday, We had a fine shower last night, which laid the dust and freshened the grass, it is cold this morning, almost freezing, We are now ascending a steep mountain, now we are at the top — all around us we can see the snowy mountains, and down below is a beautiful green valley, and a small Indian villiage. Evening travel 18 miles to day, crossed hams fork of Green river this afternoon, and have campt half way up a steep mountain
2nd Saturday evening we have been traveling up and down steep mountains all day came about 15 miles, and camp, within 2 miles of Bear river close to a good spring. —
3rd Sunday Bad luck this morning, soon after starting one of our best oxen took sick, and in less than an hour he was dead, suppose he was poisoned with alkali water, or weeds, turned out the old ox and started on. crossed Smiths fork of Bear river on a bridge paid 1 dollar a wagon, it is a very rappid stream, and hard to swim stock over, we then came over some very rough ground, the worst we have seen, nothing but rocks to travel over, close under a steep mountain, water and grass plenty, also wood, we will stay here till after the fourth, two of oxen quite lame.—
4th of July, Monday it has been very warm to day, thermometer up to no and yet we can see banks of snow almost within reach, I never saw the mosquitoes as bad as they are here Chat has been sick all day with fever, partly caused by mosquitoe bites, the men have been shoeing one of the lame oxen the first one they have tried to shoe the other ones foot is too much swelled.
5th Tuesday Noon, we are campt on top of a mountain to noon and rest awhile, it is warm, but there is a good breeze up here, Chatfield is sick yet had fever all night, Evening crossed 2 creeks to day, one with a bridge over paid 1 dollar a wagon to cross, travel 15 miles over a very hilly road and camp near the sulpher springs situated in a small prairie, surrounded by mountains
6th Wendsday evening traveled 20 miles to day and camp near a spring (in mosquito valley) there is plenty of good grass all along Bear river valley traded a cow and calf to day for a steer to yoke up with the odd one, and find after useing him half a day, that we have been cheated, as he cant stand it to travel —
7th Thursday evening, We have traveled 20 miles to day, all up hill and down, it has been very warm and dusty, we have campt about half a mile off from the road close to a splendid spring of limestone water, in a beautiful pine and cedar grove, while I am writing we are haveing a fine little shower, which is a great treat, our poor dog gave out with the heat and sand so that he could not travel, the boys have gone back after him, it has cleared off and I must get supper —
8th Friday morn. Verry pleasant, found our dog last night; we have just left the Soda Springs, after regaling ourselves and quite romantic, we then come on a few miles and stopt at Steamboat Spring, a great curiosity, situated near the bank of Bear river, it spouts up about a foot and a half, out of a hole in the solid rock it is about warm enough to wash in, I put my hankerchief in to wash, and it drew it under, in a moment it came up again, and I took better care of it, Afternoon after traveling 14 miles, we have campt near a spring, to rest a lame man, and a sick man, a lame Ox, and a lame dog, ect, grass plenty left Bear river this forenoon —
9th Saturday We passed the forks of the emigrant road yesterday noon, after leaving the California road, we find the grass much better, as most of the large droves are bound for California; Noon came 10 miles and have campt on Shoshanee creek, in this part of the country the water is all hard not fit to wash with, got our thermometer broke here —
10th Sunday evening, Travel 9 miles this forenoon, and came to Port neuf creek, paid 1 dollar for crossing it on a very rough bridge, then we stopt awhile to noon in a small bottom then travel 8 miles up a mountain, and camp near the top close to a very large spring of clear cold water, running from under a snowy mountain,—
11th Monday morn, We will now descend the mountain, pleasant weather, but the roads dusty, evening we have forded Rosses creek, and one more small creek to day, came 15 miles and camp by a small creek.—
12th Tuesday Noon, came 12 miles, crossed Rosses creek again this morning, on a bridge, paid 25 cents a wagon and we have just crossed Port neuf river on a ferry boat, paid 2 dollars a wagon, and swam the stock, we are now in sight of the the three Butes, Evening came 10 miles this afternoon, crossed Panack [Bannock] creek, and have campt this side of it, we are now traveling down the bank of Snake river. —
13 Wendsday afternoon, we have just been spending an hour at the American Falls on Snake river, there are several falls on this river, the river is wide, and deep, and very swift in places, we should cross it and keep down on the other side, but there is no ferry boat, and we have no way to cross it, therfore we must keep down on this side, with very little grass, while on the other side there is plenty, travel 22 miles and camp.—
14th Thursday It is dusty from morning till night, with now and then a sprinkling of gnats and mosquitoes, and as far as the eye can reach it is nothing but a sandy desert, covered with wild sage brush, dried up with the heat, however it makes good fire wood; evening I have not felt well to day, and the road has been very tedious to me, I have ridden in the wagon and taken care of Chatfield till I got tired, then I got out and walked in the sand, and stinking Sage brush till I gave out, and I feel thankful that we are about to camp after traveling 22 miles; on the bank of Raft river, about dark, river high.—
15th Friday evening, last night I helpt get supper, and went to bed, to sick to eat any myself, had fever all night, and all day. it is sundown, and the fever has left me, and I am able to creep round and look at things, and brighten up a little, the sun has been very hot to day, remained in camp nearly all day waiting for the river to fall, we forded the river late this afternoon by raising the wagon beds a foot, to prevent the water from running in, we have encamped about half a mile from the same place, the bottom here is full of poison water.
16th Saturday evening we came 16 miles over a very rough rocky road, without water, then rested 2 hours, and travel 4 more, and have campt near Swamp creek. —
17th Sunday, we are traveling through the digger Indians country but have not seen any yet, we crossed Swamp creek this forenoon, and Goose creek this afternoon, goose creek is almost straight down, and then straight up again, several things pitched out of the wagons into the creek, travel over some very rocky ground, here Chat fell out of the wagon, but did not get hurt much, came 26 miles to day, and camp after dark near the bank or Snake river
18th Monday traveled 22 miles crossed one small creek, and here campt on one called Rock creek it is here the indians are so troublesome, this creek is covered with small timber and thick under brush, a great hiding place, and while in this part of the country the men have to guard the stock all night, one man traveling ahead of us, had all his horses stolen and never found them as we know of. (I was very much frightened while at this camp, and lie awake all night — I expected every minite we would all be killed, however we all found our scalps on in the morning), there is people killed at this place every year.
19th Tuesday came 15 miles crossed Rock creek about noon in the midst of all the dust, we had a nice little shower, which laid the dust, and made the traveling much better, campt about 3 oclock, close to a Canon in Rock creek.
20th Wendsday evening, dry traveling to day, no grass, water very scarce, stopt at noon to water at a very bad place on Snake river, 1½ mile or more a steep bank or precipice, the cattle looked like little dogs down there, and after all the trouble of getting the poor things down there, they were so tired they could not drink and was obliged to travel back, and take the dusty road again, we are still traveling on in search of water, water
21st Thursday morn, very warm, traveled 25 miles yesterday and campt after dark ½ mile from Snake river — Crossed Salmon river about noon to day, and are now traveling down Snake river, till we reach the ferry afternoon came 12 miles, and have campt close to the ferry, our turn will come to cross in the night, have to pay 4 dollars a wagon, cross on a ferry boat, and swim the Stock which is a very hard job, on such a large river, Indians all round our wagons.
22nd Friday, crossed the river before daybreak, and found the smell of carrion so bad, that we left as soon as possible the dead cattle were lying in every direction, still there were a good many getting their breakfast among all the fags, I walked of among the rocks, while the men were getting the cattle ready, then we drove a mile or so, and halted to get breakfast; here Chat had a very narrow escape, from being run over, Just as we were all getting ready to start Chatfield the rascal came round the forward wheel to get into the wagon, and at that moment the cattle started, and he fell under the wagon, somehow he kept from under the wheels, and escaped with only a good, or I should say bad scare, I never was so much frightened in my life, I was in the wagon at the time putting things in order, and supposed Frances was taken care of him. After traveling 6 miles, we have encampt for the day, on the bank of a creek, full of springs, a fine place to wash, and rest the cattle, plenty of good grass, afternoon rained some.—
23rd Saturday, We took a fresh start this morning with every thing in order, for a good days drive, travel about 5 miles, and here we are, up a stump again, with a worse place than we have every had before us, to be crossed, called Bridge creek. I presume it takes its name from a natural bridge which crosses it, this bridge is only wide enough to admit one person at a time, a frightful place, with the water roarring and tumbling ten or 15 feet below it this bridge is composed of rocks and all round us, it is only place to cross over and is nothing but a solid mass of rocks, with the water ripping and tearing over them here we have to unload all the wagons and pack every thing across by hand, and then we are only on an Island there is a worse place to cross yet, a branch of the same, have to stay on the Island all night, and wait our turn to cross, there is a good many campt on the Island, and there are camps on each side of it. there is no chance to pitch a tent, as this Island is a solid rock, so we must sleep the best way we can, with the water roaring on each side of us; The empty wagons, cattle, and horses, have to be taken further up the river and crossed by means of chaines and ropes, the way we cross this branch, is to climb down about six feet on rocks, and then a wagon bed bottom will just reach across, from rocks to rocks, it must then be fastened at each end, with ropes on chains, so that you can cross on it, and then we climb up the rocks on the other side, and in this way every thing has to be taken across some take their wagons to pieces, and take them over in this way—
24th Sunday evening, crossed the river this morning, and got loaded up, then traveled 16½ miles without water, then we came to a creek of poisen water in the bottom, did not dare to stay there, came on a mile and a half, to a spring in the bottom and have campt, the Indians are very bad here, have to keep watch all night.
25th Monday morning. Bad luck this morning to start with, a calf took sick and died before breakfast, soon after starting one of our best cows was taken sick and died in a short time, presume they were both poisened with water or weeds, left our poor cow for the wolves, and started on, Evening it has been very warm to day, traveled 18 miles and have campt right on top of a high round sand hill, a fine mark for the indians, we have also got on to a place, that is full of rattlesnakes, one of our oxen sick.
26th Tuesday very warm, and terrible dusty, we raised a long tedious mountain this forenoon, crossed one little creek about noon, all the water we have seen to day, it is near night, and we are still traveling on, and urging our poor tired cattle on till we find water, it looks as if it never rained in this region, it is so dry and dusty, we have been jumping and jolting over rocks all day, and are now about to camp near a creek of clear cold water traveled 17 miles —
27th of July Wendsday, another fine cow died this afternoon, came 15 miles to day, and have campt at the boiling Springs, a great curiosity, they bubble up out of the earth boiling hot, I have only to pour water on my tea and it is made; there is no cold water in this part, — (This band and myself, wandered far down this branch, as far as we dare, to find it cool enough to bath in, it was still very hot, and I believe I never spent such an unesy, sleepless night, in my life, I felt as if I was in the bad place, I still believe it was not very far off — I was glad when morning came and we left.)
28th Thursday noon Filled all the empty vessles last night with water, to cool for the stock, have traveled 12 miles to day, and have campt in the prairie, 5 or 6 miles from water, Chat is quite sick with Scarlet fever.
29th Friday came 18 miles over some very rocky road and camp by a spring, Chat is some better —
30th Saturday Travel 16 miles over a very hilly, but good road, and camp by a stream of water and good grass, it has been very warm to day.
31st Sunday morning, cool and pleasant, but very dusty, came 12 miles and camp about 1 oclock not far from Boise river, we will stay here a day or two and rest, and recruit our cattle —
August 1st Monday Still in camp, have been washing all day, and all hands, have had all the wild currants we could eat, they grow in great abundance along this river, there are three kinds, red, black, and yellow, this evening another of our best milk cows died, cattle are dying off very fast all along this road, we are hardly ever out of sight of dead cattle on this side of Snake river, this cow was well and fat an hour before she died. — Cut the second cheese to day —
2nd Tuesday noon traveled 12 miles to day, and have just campt on the bank of the Boise river, the boys have all crossed the river, to gather currants, this river is a beautiful clear stream of water running over a stony bottom, I think it the prettiest river I have seen as yet, the timber on it is balm of gilead,8 made a nice lot of currant pies this aftenoon.
3rd Wendsday evening, traveled 18 miles, and have campt about one half mile from the river, plenty of good grass.
4th Thursday evening. We have just crossed Boise or Reids river, it is deep fording, but by raising the wagon beds about a foot, and being very careful we are all landed safe, and about to camp not far from the bank of the river, have traveled 20 miles to day, have also seen a good many Indians and bought fish of them, they all seem peaceable and friendly. —
5th Friday, We have just bid the beautiful Boise river with her green timber, and rich currants farewell, and are now on our way to the ferry on Snake river; evening traveled 18 miles to day, and have just reached Fort Boise, and campt, our turn will come to cross, sometime tomorrow, there is one small ferry boat running here, owned by the Hudsons Bay Company have to pay 8 dollars a wagon, our worst trouble at these large rivers, is swiming the stock over, often after swimming nearly half way over, the poor things, will turn and come out again, at this place however, there are indians who swim the river from morning till night it is fun for them, there is many a drove of cattle that could not be got over without their help, by paying them a small sum, they will take a horse by the bridle or halter, and swim over with him, the rest of the horses all follow, and by driving and hurraing to the cattle they will most always follow the horses, sometimes they fail and turn back; this fort Boise is nothing more than three mud buildings, its inhabitants, the Hudsons bay company a few french men, some half naked indians, half breeds &c
6th Saturday afternoon, got all safe across the river by noon, and it being 15 miles, and have just reached Malheur river and campt, the roads have been very dusty, no water, nothing but dust, and dead cattle all day, the air filled with the odor from dead cattle,
Augst 8th Monday morn, we have to make a drive of 22 miles, without water to day, have our cans filled (here we left unknowingly our Lucy behind, not a soul had missed her untill we had gone some miles, when we stopt awhile to rest the cattle; just then another train drove up behind us, with Lucy she was terribly frightened and so was some more of us, when we found out what a narrow escape she had run. She said she was sitting under the bank of the river, when we started, busy watching some wagons cross and did not know we were ready. I supposed she was in Mr Carls wagon, as he always took charge of Frances and Lucy and I took care of Myra and Chat, when starting he asked for Lucy, and Frances says “shes in Mother’s wagon.” as she often came in there to have her hair combed. — it was a lesson to all of us.) Evening it is nearly dark and we are still toiling on till we find a camping place the little ones have curled down, and gone to sleep without supper, wind high, and it is cold enough for a great coat and mittens. —
9th Tuesday morning early, came into camp last night at nine oclock, after traveling 19½ miles, with enough water in our cans to make tea for supper, men all tired and hungry, groped round in the dark, and got a supper over, after a fashion, we are now on our way to Birch creek, which is 2½ miles from our camp, Halted at Birch creek and got breakfast, then started on and traveled as far as Burnt river 17 miles and camp …
10th Wendsday, traveled 12 miles, crossed burnt river 5 times, and have campt on the bank of it about 4 oclock in the aftenoon, to repare the wagons some — Evening cold.
11th Thursday, frost this morning, three of our hands got discontented, and left us this morning to pack through, I am pleased as we shall get along just as well without them, and I shall have three less to wait on, — Evening came 10 miles to day, and crossed burnt river 4 times, and have campt near a small spring, about 3 miles from the river.
12 Friday, Came 12 miles to day crossed burnt river twice, lost one of our oxen, we were traveling slowly along, when he dropt dead in the yoke unyoked and turned out the odd ox, and drove round the dead one, and so it is all along this road we are continually driving round the dead cattle, and shame on the man who has no pity for the poor dumb brutes that have to travel, and toil month after month, on this desolate road. I could hardly help shedding tears, when we drove round this poor ox who had helped us along thus far, and had even given us his very last step. We have campt on a branch of Burnt river. —
13 Saturday Travel 5 miles this morning, then stopt to water at a spring; it is near night we are still traveling on, through dust and sand, and over rocks, untill we find water, had none since this morning.
14th Sunday morn, Campt last night after dark after traveling 15 miles in a large bottom, near some puddles of very poor water found out this morning that it needed straining Afternoon, after traveling 10 miles we have campt on the bank of Powder river about 1 oclock another ox sick, we will rest here untill morning —
15th Monday, traveled 11 miles, crossed Powder river three times (Powder river is a small clear stream) and have campt on a small creek, about 12 miles from the Grand round Valley. —
16th Tuesday, Slow traveling on account of our oxen having sore feet, and the roads being very rocky, passed the Silvery springs, traveled 12 miles, and now we have a long steep rocky hill to descend into the Valley it is a mile long, very steep and rocky from the top of this hill, we could see a band of Indian horses in the Valley below, and being mostly white, they looked like a flock of chickens, after reaching the bottom of this hill with a good deal of difficulty, we find our selves in a most lovely Valley, and have campt close to a spring, which runs through it, there are also two or three trading posts here, and a great many fine looking Kayuse Indians riding round on their handsome ponies.—
17th Wendsday evening, crossed the Grand round Valley, which is 8 miles across, and have campt close to the foot of the mountain, good water, and feed plenty, there are 50 or more wagons campt around us, Lucy and Myra have their feet and legs poisoned, which gives me a good deal of trouble, bought some fresh Salmon of the Indians this evening, which is quite a treat to us, it is the first we have seen. —
18th Thursday Morn Commenced the ascent of the Blue Mountains it is a lovely morning, and all hands seem to be delighted with the prospect, of being so near the timber again, after weary months of travel, on the dry dusty sage plains, with nothing to relieve the eye; just now the men are holloing, to hear their echo ring through the woods. — Evening travel 10 miles to day up and down steep hills, and have just campt on the bank of Grand round river, in a dense forest of pine Timber, a most beautiful country;
19th Friday quite cold morning, water froze over in the buckets; travel 13 miles, over very bad roads, without water after looking in vain for water, we were about to give up as it was near night, when husband came across a company of friendly Kayuse Indians about to camp who showed him where to find water, half a mile down a steep mountain, and we have all campt together, with plenty of pine timber all around us. the men and boys have driven the cattle down to water and I am waiting for water to get supper, this fornoon we bought a few potatoes of an Indian, which will be a treat for our supper.
20th Saturday, Cold all day, came n miles, and camp about two oclock, in a pine and fir forest close to a small stream of poor water, grass very scarce, 15 miles more and we will leave the blue mountains.
21st Sunday morn Cold, after a great deal of trouble to find all our cattle, we got started about 11 oclock and travel 4 miles then stopt to noon, not far from a spring, then travel 3 or 4 miles and turned out to let the cattle feed an hour feed very scarce, Evening we are descending a long mountain it is nearly dark came 12 miles, and still traveling
22nd Monday morning, I began to think last night we would never get to the foot of the mountain it was 4 miles long, however we came into camp after nine oclock at night and find ourselves in the Umahtilah Valley, a warmer climate, more like summer, no feed for the poor stock, we are now traveling on the Nez perces plains, warm weather and very dusty, came 12 miles and camp at a spring ½ mile from the Umahtilah river, grass all dead but the stock eat it greedy for fuel willows and some little sage brush.
23rd Tuesday very warm, grass all dead, the dust is worse than ever to day. I can hardly see the toung [tongue] cattle
24 Wendsday Morn, traveled 20 miles yesterday and came into camp after dark on the bank of the Umahtilah river, numbers were campt around us, no feed for the poor stock; it is quite warm, came 5 miles this morning, and have just stopt at the Indian agency to fill our cans at the well, Evening after filling our cans with water, we came on and stopt to noon, and let the cattle pick dry grass as it is too warm to travel in the middle of the day then come 10 miles, and crossed Butter creek then came a mile up the creek, and have encampt near a good spring, and as there is no feed near the road, the men have driven the stock a mile and a half out to dry bunch grass.
25th Thursday We will remain in camp to day, to wash, and rest the cattle, it is 18 miles to the next water, cotton wood and willows to burn, we will start this evening and travel a few miles after dark it is too hot and dusty to travel in the heat of the day. campt about nine oclock in the dry prairie
26th Friday afternoon, came 6 miles last night and 12 to day, and have just reached a small spring, where we can only water one ox at a time, by dipping up buckets full, this spring seems to rise out of the ground, and then fall again right off. we will camp here, and drive the cattle a mile to feed, a good many Indians campt around us, bought Salmon of them for supper and breakfast, sage brush to burn,
27th Saturday, Came 5 miles and stopt at the well spring about noon, and watered the stock, then drove them out to grass, this well spring is not much better than a mud hole, we will remain in camp till evening, our cattle are weak and in order to save them, we travel slowly and rest during the heat of the day. 15 miles to the next water.
28th Sunday, Started last night about sun down, and drove 5 miles, and found tolerable good grass, to turn the cattle out to. Started very early this morning and drove as far as Willow creek, 10 miles and camp again till evening, plenty of willows to burn, but no running water it is standing in holes along the creek and very poor, it will be 22 miles before we get water again.
29th Monday, traveled 10 miles last night, and 12 to day and have campt about 1 oclock on Rock creek weather very warm, and dust bad.
30th Tuesday, travel 7 miles this morning, crossed Rock creek 4 times, and have just crossed John Days river, and encampt on the bank of it about 1 oclock, not far from a trading post, here husband sold an ox that was unable to work for 25 do., we will make the best of this river, as it is 25 miles to the next, Our camp is in a very pretty Valley, or glade, surrounded by hills and our cattle and horses are feeding among the hills, a mile or two distant, and close to us lies the river, a beautiful clear stream, running over a gravelly bottom.
31st Wendsday morn Still in camp, it was too stormy to start out last evening, as intended, the wind was very high all the afternoon, and the dust a fine sand so bad we could hardly see thundered, and rained a little in the evening, it rained and blew very hard all night, is still raining this morning, the air cold and chilly, it blew so hard last night as to blow our buckets and pans from under the wagons, and this morning we found them (and other things which were not secured) scattered all over the valley, one or two pans came up missing, every thing is packed up ready for a start, the men folks are out hunting the cattle. The children and myself are shivering round and in the wagons, nothing for fires in these parts, and the weather is very disagreeable. Evening got a late start this morning, traveled about a mile and was obliged to stop, and turn the cattle out on account of rain, at noon it cleared off we eat dinner, and started, came up a long, and awful rocky hollow, in danger every moment of smashing our wagons, after traveling 7 miles, we halted in the prairie long enough to cook supper, split up some of the deck boards of our wagons, to make fire, got supper over, and are on our way again, cloudy and quite cold all day —
Sept 1st Thursday morn, traveled 8 miles last night, and encampt in the prairie without wood or water — Afternoon after traveling 11 miles and descending on a long hill, we have encampt not far from the Columbia river, made a nice dinner off of fried Salmon, quite a number of Indians are campt around us, for the purpose of selling Salmon to the emigrants —
2 Friday Came 5 miles this morning, and are now crossing the Fall (or Deshutes as it is called here) river on a ferry boat, pay 3 dollars a wagon, and swim the stock, this river is very swift and full of rapids. Evening travel 5 miles this afternoon ascended and descended a long steep hill, crossed Olneys creek and have campt on the hill close to it, cold weather, and no wood, pretty good grass —
3rd Saturday Morn cool and pleasant had a fine shower last night which laid the dust and makes the traveling much better — here husband (being run out of money) sold his sorrel mare (Fan) for 125 dollars, Evening Traveled 17 miles to day crossed Olneys (or the 15 mile creek) 7 times and have encampt on the bank of it we are near the timber once more …
4th Sunday Morning Clear and bright, had a fine view of Mount Hood, St Hellens and Jefferson this evening traveled 15 miles to day without water, after descending a long, steep, rocky, and very tedious hill we have campt in a Valley on the bank of Indian creek, near some French men who have a trading post, there are also a good many indians encampt around us no feed for the cattle to night. 15 miles more will take us to the foot of the mountains.
5th Monday forenoon, passed a sleepless night last night, as a good many of the indians campt around us were drunk and noisy and kept up a continual racket, which made all hands uneasy, and kept our poor dog on the watch all night, I say poor dog because he is nearly worn out with traveling through the day, and should rest all night, but he hates an Indian and will not let one come near the wagons if he can help it, and doubtless they would have done some mischief but for him ascended a long steep hill this morning which was very hard on the cattle, and also on my self as I thought I never should get to the top although I rested two or three times, after traveling about two miles over some very pretty rolling prairie, we have turned our cattle out to feed awhile, as they had nothing last night — Evening traveled about 12 miles to day and have encampt on a bra[n]ch of Deschutes, and turned our cattle and horses out to tolerable good bunch grass —
6th Tuesday Still in camp, washing and overhauling the wagons to make them as light as possible to cross the mountains Evening after throwing away a good many things and burning up most of the deck boards of our wagons so as to lighten them, got my washing and some cooking done, and started on again crossed 2 branches, traveled 3 miles, and have campt near the gate, or foot of the Cascades Mountains, (here I was sick all night caused by my washing and working too hard)
Septbr 7th Wendsday, first day in the mountains came 16 miles to day, crossed Deshutes or a branch of it 4 times and have encampt on the bank of it, bought flour at 20 cts per pound to feed the stock —
8th Thursday Traveled 14 miles over the worst road that was ever made up and down very steep rough and rocky hills, through mud holes, twisting and winding round stumps, logs, and fallen trees, now we are on the end of a log, now bounce down in a mud hole, now over a big root of a tree, or rock, then bang goes the other side of the wagon and woe to be whatever is inside, (there is very little chance to turn out of this road, on account of the timber and fallen trees, for these mountains are a dense forest of pine, fir, white cedar, or redwood, the handsomest timber in the world must be here in these Cascades Mountains) many of the trees are 300 feet high and so dense as to almost excude the light of heaven and for my own part I dare not look to the top of them for fear of breaking my neck — we have campt on a little stream called Sandy, no feed for the stock except flour and by driving them a mile or so, they can get a little swamp grass, or pick brush —
9th Friday, Came 8½ miles crossed Sandy 4 times, came over corduroy roads, through swamps, over rocks and hommochs, and the worst road that could be immagined or thought of, and have encampt about 1 oclock in a little opening near the road, the men have driven the. cattle a mile off from the road to try and find grass, and rest them till morning, we hear the road is still worse on ahead; There is a great deal of laurel growing here which will poison the stock if they eat it, (there is no end to the wagons, buggys ox yokes, chains, ect that are lying all along this road some splendid good wagons just left standing, perhaps with the owners name on them; and many are the poor horses and mules, oxen, cows, &c, that are lying dead in these mountains, afternoon, slight shower —
10th Saturday pleasant, Noon we have just halted in a little valley at the foot of Big Laurel hill to rest ourselves and poor weary cattle an hour or so we dare not rest long in these mountains for fear of a storm, which would be almost certain to kill off all our stock, although the poor things need it bad enough, after what they have gone through with this forenoon, it would be useless for me with my pencil to describe the awful road we have just passed over (let fancy picture a train of wagons and cattle passing through a crooked chimney, and we have big laurel hill) after decending several bad hills, one called little laurel hill, which I thought as bad as could be but in reality it was nothing to this last one called Big Laurel, it is something more than ½ mile long, very rocky all the way, quite steep, winding, sideling deep down and muddy, made so by a spring running the entire length of the road, and this road is cut down so deep that at times the cattle and wagons are almost out of sight, with no room for the drivers except on the bank, a very difficult place to drive also dangerous, and to make the matter worse, there was a slow poking train ahead of us, which kept stopping every five minuits, and another behind us which kept swearing, and hurrying our folks on, and there they all were, with the poor cattle all on the strain holding back the heavy wagons on the slippery road, (the men and boys all had their hands full, and I was oblidged to take care of myself and the little ones as best I could, there being no path or road except the one where the teams traveled, we kept as near the road as we could, winding round the fallen timber and brush, climbing over logs, creeping under fallen timber, sometimes lifting and carrying Chat, at others holding my nose to keep from smelling the carrion.) I must quit as all hands are getting ready to travel again — Evening came 10 miles to day crossed Sandy river once and have campt by it about dark fed the stock flour, and cut down Alder for them to browse on nothing else for them, poor things, kept them yoked and tied all night, (here I was sick all night and not able to get out of the wagon in the morning.) —
11th Sunday evening traveled 12 miles to day, crossed Sandy (or Zig Zag) river once and have encampt close to a spring branch, and drive the cattle ½mile from the road to feed on swamp grass, the road has been a very little better to day although we came down some very bad hills, also through mud holes —
12th Monday evening came 12 miles to day, crossed Sandy once ascended thru very steep hills, passed over the devils back bone, they call it here — We also passed over some very pretty country to day, we stoped to noon at a beautiful spot, it was prairie interspersed with strips of pretty fir timber, with their branches sweeping the ground, to the left of us was a deep ravine; with a clear stream of water meandering through it, (this pretty place was along towards the end of the old fellows back bone) passed one new made claim this evening, and have encampt near a small stream of clear water — it is three miles to the first farm —
13th Tuesday Noon, ascended three very steep muddy hills this morning, drove over some muddy mirey ground, and through mud holes, and have just halted at the first farm to noon, and rest awhile, and buy feed for the stock; paid 1½ dollars per hundred for hay; — price of fresh beef 16 and 18 cts per pound butter ditto 1 dollar, eggs 1 dollar a dozen; onions 4 and 5 dollars per bushel, all too dear for poor folks so we have treated ourselves to some small turnips at the rate of 25 cts per dozen, got rested and are now ready to travel again — Evening traveled 14 miles to day, crossed Deep creek, and have encampt on the bank of it, a very dull looking place, grass very scarse, We may now call ourselves through, they say; and here we are in Oregon making our camp in an ugly bottom, with no home, except our wagons and tent, it is drizzling and the weather looks dark and gloomy, here old man Fuller9 left us, and Wilson Carl remains —
14th Wednesday still in camp, raining and quite disagreeable
15th Still in camp, and still raining. I was sick all night
16th Still in camp, rain in the forenoon, and clear in the afternoon — wash some this forenoon —
17th Saturday morning in camp yet, still raining — Noon it has cleared off and we are all ready for a start again, for some place we dont know where Evening came 6 miles, and have encampt in a fence corner by a Mr Lamberts10 about seven miles from Milwaukie, turned our stock out to tolerable good feed —
Oregon T Saturday evening Sept. 17th, 1853.
1 Transactions of the Oreg. Pioneer Assoc., 56th Annual Reunion (Portland, 1928), pp. 38–54; Clark County Sun, Vancouver, Wash., Oct. 24, 31; Nov. 28; Dec. 5, 12, 19, 26, 1930; Fort Vancouver Hist. Soc., Clark County History, VI (1965), pp. 36–56.
2 Lillian Schlissel, Women’s Diaries of the Westward Journey, (New York, 1982), pp. 199–200.
1 Oxen were often given names. Here they were named for the battle cry of the 1840 election of President William Henry Harrison and Vice-President John Tyler: “Tippecanoe and Tyler Too.”
2 According to the Missouri Republican of St. Louis in its edition of May 11, 1853, the Hindoo was “still engaged in ferrying emigrants across the river at Council Bluffs,” but the “larger portion” had set out for the West. The Hindoo left for St. Louis on May 13. Louise Barry, The Beginning of the West (Topeka, 1972), p. 1146.
3 In the fall of 1846 the great migration of Mormons had crossed the Missouri and spent the cold months at their “Winter Quarters,” now part of greater Omaha, Nebr. Leonard J. Arrington and Davis Bitton, The Mormon Experience (New York, 1979), pp. 97–98.
4 Ibid. Some 200 persons had died at the 1846–1847 Mormon Winter Quarters.
5 Goggles
6 Wilson Carl was a single man, a wagoneer for the Knights. He settled in Yamhill Co., Oreg., an accomplished carpenter. Some say the town of Carlton was named for him, but there is some disagreement about this. On May 26, 1856, he and Mary Stout were married. Joseph Gaston, Centennial History of Oregon, II (Chicago, 1912), pp. 906–911. The Knights thought enough of him to name their son, born on September 18, 1853, on their arrival in the Portland area, for him, Wilson Carl Knight. See Introduction, above, p. 34.
7 Henry Miller was a 21-year-old man from Ohio. He settled on a claim in Coos Co., Oreg., on June to, 1854. He was still single at that time. Genealogical Material in Oregon Donation Land Claims, III (Portland, 1962), #1831, p. 131.
8 This was the black cottonwood, a poplar. Charles R. Ross in Trees to Know in Oregon (Corvallis, 1967 ), p. 61, describes it as a “friend of the pioneers.” He says, “To pioneers on the Old Oregon Trail the cottonwood was the most important tree. For nearly 1000 miles of their journey it was the only shade tree to be found.” It was called “Balm of Gilead because when the spring buds burst, it emits a refreshing balmy odor. See fn. 13, p. 298, Volume V of this series.
9 Several Fullers traveled overland in 1853. The only one, according to land records, who might be termed an “old man” would have been Joel Fuller, born in 1803. H is wife was Rebecca. They had been married on Jan. 1, 1824. They brought with them a family of several children and settled on Claim # 3148 in Marion Co. Genealogical Material, op. cit., II (Portland, 1959 ), p. 34.
10 Joseph H. and Mary Lambert lived near Milwaukie, Oreg., on the west bank of the Willamette, several miles southeast of Portland. He was a noted nurseryman and originated the Lambert Cherry. Howard M. Corning, Dictionary of Oregon History (Portland, 1956), p. 140.