Life and Death on the Oregon Trail Celinda Hines

INTRODUCTION

[August] 20th Saturday … 10 Oclock Saw a commet very plain in the SW …

[August] 23 Tuesday … The commet shown very brilliantly in the evening …

It took the perceptive eye of a bright young woman to see what few others observed in the August sky in 1853. Celinda Hines was in what is now southern Idaho.

One other woman mentioned it in her diary: Hannah King jotted down on August 28th: “Memo, first saw a Splendid bearded Comet on the 22nd of August— 1853.” [See page 217.]

Another 1853 journal writer, William Hoffman, noted on August 25th, “A comet has appeared in the west for a week past having a considerably long tail. At times it appears very brilliant.”1

There were four observable comets in 1853. This one is designated by astronomers as “1853 III.” It was scientifically described by Wilhelm Klinkerfues of Gottingen University. In late August it could be seen by the naked eye with a tail reaching over twelve degrees in length. It is known as “The great comet of 1853.”2 One wonders why more wagoneers did not observe and mention this phenomenon.

The Celinda Hines diary was published in the Transactions of the 46th Annual Reunion of the Oregon Pioneer Association in 1918.3 Since then it has been quoted often in articles and books about the overland trail. The original handwritten document is in the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library of Yale University. We are grateful for the permission to use it. The reader will note that there are many gaps of several words at a time throughout the document. According to George H. Himes, Secretary of the Oregon Pioneer Association, in a note at the end of the published diary, it “was almost destroyed by fire many years ago before it was placed in my custody.”4 The 1918 printed edition is also at odds when compared with the original manuscript. We have deferred to the original manuscript and sought to copy it as accurately as possible.

The Hines overland party was basically a family affair. Three Hines brothers: Gustavus, Jedediah and Harvey, and their families, headed for Oregon from New York State in the spring of 1853.

Another brother, Joseph Wilkinson Hines, and his wife, Elizabeth, went by sea, sailing from New York and crossing the Isthmus of Panama. They then sailed north to San Francisco and on to Portland.5

The elected leader of the overland party was Gustavus Hines. His wife was Lydia (Graves) Hines. Accompanying them were Lucy Ann Lee, the 11-year-old orphaned daughter of the late Reverend Jason and Lucy Lee, pioneer Methodist missionaries to the Pacific Northwest.6

The youngest brother was Harvey Kimball Hines. His wife was Elizabeth (Graves) Hines. She and Lydia (Gustavus’ wife), had the same maiden name, but were not sisters.7

The oldest of the brothers was Jedediah (Diah) Hines. He and his wife Eliza were the parents of Celinda, the author of the diary. Celinda describes vividly her father’s death (he drowned in the Snake River in present-day southern Idaho).8 Eliza Hines was now a widow. Four years after her arrival in Oregon, the Oregon Statesman of Salem announced her marriage to Fielding Lewis of Linn County, Oregon, on August 18, 1857. The same newspaper reported her death on January 26, 1859, at age 49.10

Two young women, Martha & Julia, are often mentioned in Celinda’s diary. She went for numerous walks with them. Martha and Julia were sisters of the Hines wives. Martha Graves was the 19-year-old sister of Elizabeth (Mrs. Harvey) Hines. Julia Graves was the 17-year-old sister of Lydia (Mrs. Gustavus) Hines. In Oregon, both women met their future husbands: Martha was married in January 1854 to a well-known carpenter-builder of Portland, Abram Walts.11 Julia became the wife of an attorney, Chester A. Terry.12

Celinda, herself, mentions a “Mr. Shipley” in the last pages of her diary. She met him in Portland at the newly-founded Methodist Academy and Female Seminary.13 She writes on October 3rd, “Mr. S. is principal of the academy here.” She never mentions that the same day was her 27th birthday. Then on October 7th she writes, “Attended singing school in the evening. Mr. Shipley teacher Pleasant.” They were both members for the next months in the choir of the Methodist Church. She was a soprano, and he had sung bass in a traveling singing group in the east called “The Ohioans.”14 Adam Randolph Shipley and Celinda Elvira Hines became man and wife on September 30, 1854.15 He became United States Postmaster of Portland on November 4, 1854.16 Celinda resigned as teacher at the Portland Academy after her marriage.

Adam Shipley and Calvin S. Kingsley conducted a commercial enterprise, “Adam R. Shipley, and Company,” dealing in books and stationery from 1852 to 1862,17 when the Shipleys sold out and moved to a 1000-acre farm they purchased just south of Oswego (now Lake Oswego) in Clackamas County.18 Their farm stretched out from the Tualatin River northward for a mile among rough, rolling, timbered hills. The land was not suited to large acreages of grain, but it was fine for growing fruit trees and grapes in particular. They also kept bee hives in quantity.19

Adam was a well-known horticulturist. He became the principal authority on grape culture in Oregon. In the 1860’s he imported from the eastern states some 45 varieties of American and European grapes. When asked by a friend in the Horticulture Society to name the best three varieties for the Willamette Valley he said, “If I were setting out three hundred grapes to-day, I would first set one hundred Concords, then another one hundred Concords, then another one hundred Concords,” adding, “that is, to make money.”20 Celinda Shipley supposedly developed a method for preserving grapes in pottery jars: The hot fruit was sealed with sealing wax.21 Of course, preserves and jelly, as well as raisins, were also produced.

This pioneer couple had eight children, two of whom died at birth. The six who lived were Milton K., b. 1858; Cora E. (Struble), b. i860; Lester A., b. 1862; Celinda A. (Miller), b. 1865; Alphonso W., b. 1868; and Randolph C., b. 1873.22

Adam Randolph Shipley died on July 14, 1893;23 Celinda Elvira Hines Shipley died on March 10, 1905, age 78.

THE DIARY

5th [May] thursday Very pleasant. All right at the camp. It took almost all day to ferry the teams & cattle across Some of the cattle swam the river & one cow got mired but at length we were all safely landed in Nebraska at Little St Louis. I purchased a pair of shoes as cheap as I could in NY. We went out a mile & camped for the night plenty of grass good water. Julia sick all the others well.

6th friday A M. pleasant P M rainy. Some cattle of Mr. Leonard’s1 & one of our mules gone. We started on & left them Uncle H & pa remained Mr. Stateler2 who by the way is a missionary at West Port3 & brother in law of Mr Leonard — and his wife having come so far with us & Mr S’ horse having gone off with the mule Mrs S & pa remained with the wagons Uncle H. & Mr. S. hunted for the lost Mr. S did not return at night & Mrs. S. Uncle H. & pa stayed all night in the wagon having no supper nor any covering except the wagon cover although it was very cold & rainy. We went out on the prairie about six miles ahead & pitched our tents. Water & no wood

7th Saturday Pleasant, but cold as winter Uncle H came no news as yet. He went back with pa’s breakfast and with the intention should not the mule be found to go back to the Shawnee mission4 & purchase another but during his absence the indian White Crow had bought him back. They payed him $1.00 & then came to the camp. Mr. L had not yet found his cattle A very intelligent Delaware chief came to the camp. He wore a beautiful wampum belt exceeding every thing I had ever seen of the kind. He advised us to take the divide route instead of the government road by Ft Leavenworth as it is they say a better road. Uncle G captain

8 Sunday Weather cold. Some Californians camped near Jonny Cakes5 house lost one of men

9th Monday Cold. Started about half past eight. Found the road bad. Collins wagon got almost tipped over Julia Martha & I rode Charles wagon. M jumped out every bad place. We went about 15 m camped in a beautiful place Crossed the [unreadable]

10th Tuesday Pleasant Found some bad road in the morning afterwards it was good Scenery delightful went about 13 miles, wood & w

11th Wednesday Pleasant, road good except crossing ravines scenery delightful

12th Thursday Rainy Crossed the Grasshopper in a ferry. The wagons had to be unloaded & let down the bank with ropes it being too steep and high on both sides and the river so deep that we could not ford it. It took all day to cross it. It rained most of the time. We stopped at an indian house. The woman was very good looking. She wore a broad-cloth blanket round her for a skirt [shirt?] a calico sash round her waist & broad cloth pants trimmed with ribands. Her feet were small & she wore what looked to be tin ornaments for dress & steel ones — in her ears which resembled eight or ten small keys

13th Friday One cow not to be found Passed over a level prairie good road most of the way camped near a ravine Plenty of wood & water

14th Saturday Pleasant. Road good with the exception of a number of ravines which we had to cross before noon. We were obliged to stop at one while the men constructed a bridge as we could not cross without. In the P M. we were on a level prairie road good. Just before night we intersected the southern road which crosses the Kansas at the upper ferry camped near the junction.

15th Sunday Very pleasant. The Co. all but Mr. Leonard wishing to camp over Sunday did so but Mr. L left He having a good many cattle & but three men & two wagons none at least expressed sorrow at his departure In the P M Martha Julia Charles & myself walked out had a very pleasant time. All were alarmed at our prolonged stay

16th Monday rained in the P M & hailed the largest I ever saw Pleasant. Passed the catholic mission of the Pottawatamies6 Found there to our surprise quite a pleasant looking village there. Country — rolling prairie consequently many ravines. The worst one bridged. Went about 17 miles (Cross creek)

17th Tuesday Warm. Crossed the Vermillion bridged — Overtook a Co. of Californians: one lady & maid in the Co. & a drove of cattle. Camped in a delightful place near which was a grave The bones have been dug up. H. A. Blinn Michigan died [unreadable] 27 1852 — three marks on the board [unreadable] was very rainy

18th Wednesday Very cold Country uneven Crossed the Little Vermillion See dead cattle every day along the road. Saw two men who were 50 miles behind their Co. gave them some sea bread. Overtook another Co. of Californians with a drove Camped near a ravine Traveled 24 miles

19th Thursday Very pleasant & warm. Saw Mr. Leonard about a mile & a half ahead [crossed?] Salt creek the banks of which are very high. The oxen were not detached from the wagons but ropes were hitched to the wagons to let them down. All crossed over in safety Soon after we arrived at the Middle Fork of the Blue. Aunt Lydia, Julia Lucy Ann & myself were in Charles wagon as we were going down the bank the wagon tipped over none were much hurt but L A & myself being behind the others & the things coming upon us we could not move I could stir neither hand nor foot. Julia & Aunt jumped out in the mud & water. L A. & I remained until the cover was removed & some of the things taken out Every one was very much frightened. Some Californians were near & assisted us. The wagon was injured a little The contents of the provision chest were mostly emptyed into the stream. But on the whole but little damage was done The wagon was reloaded & we proceeded Camped near the Blue Made the acquaintence of a Mr Ferguson7 a Santa Fe trader who had lived ten years in Mexico & crossed the plains six times. We could not cross the river for high water Mr F’s Co. were making a raft.

20th Friday Thirteen head of cattle were missing 7 of our work oxen They were found P M. Mr F’s raft went down stream. River continued to rise. We washed in a ravine. People camped [unreadable] direction waiting for the water to fall Impossible to cross unless it did

21st Saturday Very warm Concluded to go north to the ferry about 7 miles came to a ravine which we could not cross went round came to a crossing I rode Mr. F’s pony across the water Charles wagon run against a tree in consequence of the breaking of a chain. Detained a little but no damage done Mr. F’s Co with us I drove loose stock part of the way Camped about two miles from the ferry in a beautiful place This week our route has been over a rolling prairie beautiful to behold. We frequently see wolves or those who guard do & 7 rattle snakes have been seen by the Co since we started We find Leeach [leek?] lillies & star of Bethlehem wild here Wagon run over Mrs Bryant’s8 foot

22nd Sunday It rained hard in the night We got up [unreadable] tent Morning cold Martha & Mr Miner9 & I took a walk after noon

23rd Monday Remained in camp because our turn had not yet come to cross the Blue Many camps in sight. Mr Jones Co from Kansas has arrived

24th Tuesday Struck our tents & went to the ferry. Many wagons were before us some who were booked before us & some who were not I should think there were a hundred wagons in sight during the day The river was falling but yet very high It was almost impossible to swim cattle but we had no difficulty with ours we all crossed in safety & camped on the other side We were now in the Pawnee country

25 Wednesday Pleasant Started early & traveled about 24 miles across a rolling prairie Passed four graves. Mr Jones Co joined us in the morning five wagons Mr Collins left at noon Uncle Harvey drove his team. He was angry at Uncle Gustavus Camped on [unreadable] prairie Saw 2 wolves a. m.

26 Thursday It rained some in the night Morning pleasant & warm. Crossed a number of ravines Passed them all in safety. Camped after crossing a very bad place where we saw a wagon which was broken. Two companies in sight Saw three graves

27th Friday Very pleasant & warm Crossed Otter creek A M. In the P M. crossed Little Sandy having about noon crossed the Big Sandy Saw five graves See dead cattle often. Saw some elk homes Encamped [unreadable] the Little Sandy Heard a pack of wolves barking near by Two camps in sight

28th Saturday Cloudy Crossed some 15 ravines before noon when in crossing one one of the hind wheels to Uncles large wagon broke all of the spokes coming out No other damage was done On examination it was found that the spokes in all the wheels were loose. We camped to repair it Some timber was found not far off which was thought would answer the purpose

29th Sunday About ten at night I was awakened by a violent storm of rain Water poured in torrents & we were soon drenching with rain. We succeeded in keeping some of our clothes & bedding comfortably dry After about an hour the rain abated in a measure (although it continued raining some all night) after which we lie down as best we could & I slept most of the time till morning which the storm having ceased was cold & cloudy Mr Long10 who was a wagon maker went to work at the wheel the others assisting as much as they could. Mr Jones being a blacksmith set the tire & before night all was repaired Many trains passed during the day After tea M J & myself went to see a grave It was a young lady The body had been dug up by wolves Bones & clothing were scattered around. Prickley pears wild

30th Monday Pleasant Arrived at the Blue or rather the Republican Fork Our route lies up the river 50 miles. The country is level but we have as many ravines as we did where the prairie was more rolling Saw two antelopes A M.

31st Tuesday Rainy. Mr. Jones Co & ours came to the conclusion that we could go faster & get along better separate so our Co. that is Mr. Judson, Mr Bryant and their families together with ourselves went on & left them It stopped raining before noon. At noon Mr Jones Co. came up The country is rather level Camped near the river

June 1st Wednesday We had a stampede in the night but they went only a short distance It rained in the night I rode on horse back all the A M. like it much Crossed a very bad stream all got over well Camped near it Rained very hard during supper

2nd Thursday Cold Two young men of Messrs Martin & Miner’s acquaintance on their way to California came They had lost six horses worth about 1400 $ We traveled about 25 miles Country level. Roads good. Camped within sight of the Platte or rather the forest skirting it.

3rd Friday [unreadable] pleasant Rains some after noon. Passed Ft Kearny about four O’clock Camped about 2 miles beyond. People are forbidden to camp within three miles of the Ft. No wood & nothing but rain water standing in puddles on the prairie.

4th Saturday The men went to the Ft. in the morning to shoe the horses & mules. Government has a blacksmith shop there for the accommodation of emigrants but at present there is no smith Aunt E. M. J. and I went with pa in the [unreadable] There are four [unreadable] two small ones built of wood The barracks are made of mud There is a store where they sell about the same as in Kansas. There are sixty soldiers there They have no fortifications & it was probably built more for the accommodation of emigrants & to awe the indians than for a defence. The seargeant invited us to his house where we were pleasantly entertained. The captain11 informed pa that there had passed here 85000 head of cattle & 8000 men who were crossing the plains this year also that most of the emigration [unreadable] Oregon Took up camp after dinner & started up the Platte Our route lies up the river to South Fork on the south side Many go on the north The road is level being between the bluffs & the river. The Bluffs are very high & picturesque The river ranks among the first class as to width but is very shallow as indicated by the many islands with which it is filled. The water partakes of the same laxative properties of the Mo. & Miss.

5th Sunday Road not very [unreadable] water but from the river Camped about the middle of the P M. I rode on horseback It rained & was very windy I saw five snakes

6th Monday Pleasant Saw some of the most beautiful Cactus I had ever seen Camped near the river in a very pretty place

7th Tuesday Pleasant Road leads along by the river. Scenery pleasant Camped not far from the river. No wood

8th Wednesday It rained in the night and we got very wet Scenery pretty Camped near the bluffs After tea we went out on to a very high one. Scenery delightful The [unreadable] in a chain but each [unreadable] be a mountain by itself being disconnected from its neighbor while between & around lie the sweetest little vales imaginable From the summit of the one we ascended the river is to be seen for miles No scenery I had ever beheld bears any comparison to it. They seem to be of sand formation with neither rocks or stones to be seen. On the perpendicular side of one we saw many names written Saw a new kind of cactus.

9th Thursday Pleasant Road very good. The Bluffs are now on the other side of the river We drove to the crossing of the South Fork Camped by a very good spring preparatory to crossing the river Many were camped Among the rest [unreadable] We took another [unreadable]

BOOK 2

June 10th 1853 Made preparation to cross the Platt by fording or rather the South Fork The river is about a mile & a quarter wide in low water it is shallow but now it was high water Yet it was thought that we could cross without raising the wagon beds as was usual in such times We drove to the river & as our turn came — for there were many waiting They put all the oxen on the wagons Ten yokes were attached to one of our wagons Mr Long and Martha, Julia & myself rode across Water came into the box some but we had no difficulty in getting across. The men waded to drive the teams They went back with them & hitched on to the other wagons. Pa following with the mules In the river a chain broke which detention caused the mules to become so restless as to be almost unmanageable & in the meantime a team which had been trying to get ahead ran against the carriage & almost upset it. They however got through without any very serious difficulty We drove on about five miles & camped near a good spring. We unpacked the wagon & dry out the things as they needed airing much Saw the first drive of sheep I had seen Pa packed our wagon so that our family might sleep in it We did so& found it very comfortable

11th Saturday Our road lie along by the river & was very good At noon we came where there had been two buffalo killed The head of one was there it was very large. In the P. M. Mr Miner came hurrying to us with news that he had killed one buffalo & wounded another The women got out of the carriage & took out the things & the men started for some buffalo meat They did not get up to the camp until nearly dark Mr Smithers killed a badger & as our camp was in a prairie dog village some one killed a dog Their bark resembles that of a puppy but they look more rats Mother & I washed [In margin:] Before noon a fine buffalo came near I saw him distinctly

12th Sunday Arrangements were made for us girls to ride in the other wagon so we arranged our seats accordingly Road very good We had no water for dinner In the night it rained and hailed

13th Monday In the A. M. the road lay along by the river P M. arrived at a good spring the road soon leaves the bottom & leads upon the bluffs which are here of a rocky formation which seems to be a mixture of sand & lime In about three miles we came to Ash hollow so called from the ash trees which grow there. We had looked to this place as one where we should have plenty of wood & water Another road comes in here & we saw some companies which we had not before. Every Co but Mr Caulie’s which we had seen were now behind us The glen is very picturesque rocks rise almost perpendicular two hundred ft or more We had scarcely encamped in a prettier place

14th Tuesday Warm & pleasant The men set the tire on one wagon wheel before starting The road lies along by the river We see many trains on the other side who started from Council Bluffs In the afternoon we came into a hollow & saw many trains just before us Camped near the river, after tea Martha Julia, Lucy Anna, Gustavus & myself went on the bluffs It was some distance and they were hard to ascend but the scene which was unfolded to our view amply repaid us for our fatigue. We saw three antelopes & two wolves Castle Bluff was near but we had not time to visit it & we thought by the looks that we could not ascend the dome if we were to go there

15th Wednesday Our route was mostly near the river& in the A M. the road was very sandy In the P M. it was better We passed a number of trains Weather very pleasant Came in sight of some trees but did not near them Camped on the bank of a stream Had a fine time washing

16th Thursday The weather was fair We soon came in sight of Courthouse rock About noon we came near it & within about 4 miles the nearest point where the road approaches to it It is a massive pile of rocks on the level prairie & not even a stone in miles of it It is very appropriately named from its appearance We soon after came near a Sioux village. It consisted of 25 Lodges made of buffalo hides with poles projecting at the top Many of the inhabitants came out to see us. Most of the males had no clothing but a sort of apron. They are the most pleasant agreeable looking indians I haveeverseen. They can not talk with us. At night we came to Chimney rock which had been visible to us for 15 miles. It is a pillar of rock & sand 250 ft. in hight & wholly detached from the neighboring hills. We camped near the river about two miles from the rock. After tea uncles, Mr Long, Julia Martha & I went to see it by moonlight The sight was awfully sublime The sides of the base on which the pillar rests are so steep that it was with the utmost difficulty we could climb up it at all. We however succeeded in climbing up some distance. We found it covered with names We got back to the camp about 10 O’clock

17th Friday Warm. All day the scenery was most enchanting intirely surpassing in loveliness & originality any thing I had ever beheld. Bluffs the most picturesque and resembling to the life some old castle of ancient times. About noon we came to Scotts Bluff which much resembles an old fortification It takes its name from the circumstance of a Mr. Scott & Co. traders who were robbed by the indians Mr S was wounded. On reaching this place he was unable to travel farther. His companions remained with him until they could stay no longer They & he Knew that he could survive but a short time. He begged them to leave him & they did so. Afterwards human bones were found there, supposed to be his remains. Went up the valley about 6 miles & camped in a most romantic spot near a spring brook. Martha & I went to find a spring Mr. Martin & Mr. Long went with us. We went on up the ravine expecting any moment to find the spring at length we came upon what we supposed to have once been a trading post There were several log buildings connected together in them were remnants of wagons & other things which emigrants would want In one had been a blacksmith shop. The whole was now deserted. Near by was one of the most beautiful springs I have ever seen. The scenery here is most romantical. At length we tore ourselves away from this delightful retreat & returned to camp. Our people had been much concerned about us. They knew not that the men were with us & thought perhaps we were lost.

18th Saturday Very warm Drove to Horse creek Over a high valley Passed some indian villages Camped near one. Pear cactus very thick & troublesome

19th Sunday Rained some in the night P M Saw some indians chasing buffalos. It was said that there were 50 in the herd. They succeeded in killing a number of them The chase was very interesting to us. [In left margin:] Remained in camp

The indians had nothing but halters on their horses. One was killed a little way across the creek from us We went to see it Mr. Martin & Mr Long carried us across A very small boy insisted in swimming it seemingly an expert as his father We examined some bows & arrows with which they killed them The Sioux gave Charles a quarter & offered him another but he took but one. Martha & I took off our shoes and waded back. Many Sioux came to the camp that day for food. I wrote a letter to cousin Licotta Higgins Mr Martin wrote in my album Our horses were stampeded but they got them again

20th Monday Pleasant Passed some sioux villages & also some trading posts mostly temporary ones Camped near a gorge. We have had no water but river water & no wood since leaving the cold spring near the old trading post

[June] 21st Tuesday Warm & pleasant. Went to within two miles of Laramie Fork which we could not ferry as there were 150 wagons ahead of us in waiting. Camped near the river

22nd Wednesday Cold & windy Hailed some Remained in camp all day Uncles exchanged the mules for a heavy wagon, three yokes of oxen & two cows giving $200 to boot. Uncle G took the new wagon, Harvey the broken one & fixed their beds in them

23 Thursday Went to the ferry Uncles sold the carriage & harness. We crossed without difficulty — Made the acquaintance of a Mr. Donaldson of St. Louis going to California. Soon arrived at the Ft. Stopped for noon near it. It is on the north Side of Laramie river & is overlooked on the north by a hill where stands the burying ground I visited the Ft. & was much surprised at seeing no fortifucations. There are at present 64 soldiers We made an acquaintance of the quarter-master Mr Flemming12 a young gent but 9 months from West Point — a native of Erie Pa. He walked to the camp with us making himself very agreeable I received 3 letters one from Marie Wightman one from R E Prescott & one from R E Robinson. Camped near a pond of water

[June] 24 Friday Warm Came to the Black Hills Laramie Peak has been in sight for a week Some of the road was very rough, some very good. Landscape wild & romantic On the bluffs we were by cedar & pine trees. Was advised by a trader to take a cut off thereby shunning the Black Hills & also 20 miles where there was neither wood or water. He represented that by going this new way we should have good water at intervals of 4 or 5 miles also a better road & 30 miles nearer. We took it At noon a man gave us some ice We camped near a small clear stream in a bed of larkspur the most beautiful

Saturday Warm. Country peculiar Passed Horse creek a beautiful stream before noon. Heard a waterfall near the the crossing I walked about 5 miles P M Passed a place where the Platte passes through the mountains. Camped near the river about 2½ miles from the gorge

26 Sunday Pleasant Some of our neighbors (Traders) killed an antelope Charles went and got some meat. After dinner We went to see the gorge. The scenery surpasses for grandeur sublimity & peculiarity any thing we have yet seen on the road The river passes through what seems to be a natural fissure in the earth I should think 700 feet in height We went to the top of the bluff. How grand how magnificant Several miles of the road with teams & camps. The river & its various windings with its valley & bluffs on either side Laramie Peak in the distance with its snow capped crest was before us in all the grandeur of which a landscape can be possessed We returned to camp & found we had an addition to our company in a little boy named Labonte Judson13 Mr Leonard had arrived He had left his company they were all right

[June] 27th Monday Morning pleasant. We went out to the hills. The wind soon commenced blowing a perfect gale. Sand blew with such violence as to be painful even to our hands. We were almost blinded. The country was a barren waste of sand hills covered with short stunted grass. Towards night passed the Labonte Were much refreshed at the sight of trees & water Went 4 miles & camped near a beautiful stream skirted by trees.

28 Tuesday Pleasant Not so windy as yesterday. Country barren Shall be very glad to get through the Black Hills. Camped at noon by a beautiful stream Camped at night in a retired place by a stream Gustavus came near being lost. He went after a pail of water & lost the camp

29th Wednesday Pleasant Came on to the river. Have got through the Black Hills. The road is better now Camped near the river. Uncle H caught a rabbit & a [unreadable]

[June] 30 Thursday Warm. I rode on horseback A M. Crossed some very bad places. Snow in sight on the bluffs all day. Camped near a ravine. Uncles, Mr Martin & Mr Miner went on to the bluffs & stayed all night Passed Mud creek [unreadable] We heard wolves howling in the night nearer & Louder than I had ever before heard.

1st July Friday Warm I engraved my name on a rock near our camp. Hunters return unsuccessful. Crossed the North Platte on a bridge paying six dollars a wagon & 1 shilling a head for loose stock. 5 miles very sandy some of the time we could not see the heads of the oxen Camped near the Platte

2nd Saturday Pleasant. Passed the Rocky pass about noon, afterwards passed alkali swamps Camped near the Willow springs

3rd Sunday Warm & pleasant. I rode on horse back in the A M. Mr. Miner & Mr Martin for company. P M crossed Wire creek also Greese wood creek. Like wise Bad slue & Alkali region Camped near Independence rock.

[July] 4th Monday Very warm Saw a buffalo chase in the morning The water in a ravine near by seems to proceed from snow in the mountains as it flows by day and ceases by night We got up an independence dinner all the company eating together Very pleasant.

5th Tuesday Warm & pleasant but for the dust 6 miles from camp came to Independence rock which is a large oval mass of primitive rock alone on the prairie 6 miles from this is the Devils Gate the place where the Sweet Water river passes through the mountains which are composed of solid primitive rock. The passage is nearly straight through the mountain. The rocks on either side are Between three & 400 ft. in height perpendicular. How the water ever found a passage through this granite is very strange Our road lies up the Sweet Water We camped on the southern bank having crossed it in the morning near Independence rock. Fuel Grease Wood

6th Wednesday Warm Road up the river Very sandy. Country barren Sweet Water mountains lie parallel with the river on the north & near it. On the south they are farther off They are one continued chain of granite rock Camped near the river. Drove the cattle on the other side. Fuel sage The men went over the river on the mountains, made a fire. Alkali all around south of the river

7th Thursday Pleasant Men caught some fish in the morning & we had some for dinner. Crossed the Sweet Water three times in the P M. The first time the crossing was good, but at the next we had to raise the things in the wagon & the next was still worse Mr. Bryant came near upsetting his wagon Camped near the river where we were nearly encompassed by mountains of granite We were on the north side of the river— on the south side the mountains are of a different formation sand I should think

8th Friday Rather cold & windy Camped at noon at Ice Springs. It is said that by digging two or three ft. under ground ice may be found. It rained very hard during our stay there so no one tried it. Before noon we came in full view of the Rocky mountains. Some of the Co. had seen them two days before. We camped at night on the south side of the river having crossed it in the morning. We were in sight of the mountains

9th Saturday Warm & pleasant Crossed the river once. The bluffs on either side of the river are of a grand formation & seem to have been thrown up by water We made but one drive & camped on the north side of the river in a beautiful glen

[July] 10th Sonday Warm & pleasant. Uncle Gustavus preached at 1 O’clock After tea all but Mr. & Mrs Judson & Messrs Miner & Nelson14 went on an adjacent bluff to view the scenery The valley was at our feet with its river so serpentine that although near yet we could not trace its various windings Many camps were strewed along its banks Bluffs the most picturesque reared themselves on every hand while the snow capped Rocky mountains pierced the clouds in the distance

11 Monday Pleasant Passed one Co. who had lost two persons a man & a woman who left an infant also lost 88 head of cattle. And another company who by the sinking of a boat lost 3 wagons & all their provisions & some of their clothing & have since broke two wagons one yesterday. Camped at noon at Strawberry creek Saw strawberries in Bloom Passed Willow creek in P M. Camped on the Sweet Water for the last time after crossing some indians came to the camp. One came riding up to another & pitched upon him seemingly with the intention of doing him harm — pulling his hair & threatening him with an axe above his head We thought that perhaps it was but a maneuvre to attract our attention so that others might have an opportunity to steal Mr. Bryant interfering they soon went away. The men guarded the cattle all night so we are among the Black Feet having left the Crows. Wolves howled terribly near camp.

12th Tuesday Pleasant but windy. Went 10 miles to South Pass then 3 to Pacific Springs near which we camped for dinner Road good all the way Soon after dinner a wagon just ahead of our train was upset but no material damage done. The same train have had two men killed by lightning. We drove till late without finding water but at length Came to Dry Sandy where we found some water & camped. Fuel sage Uncle H & Mr Bryant drove the cattle away to feed & remained with them all night. The water is very poor

13th Warm & pleasant. Road good but sandy soil much of it has been, producing nothing but sage. We have seen no grass of any consequence since we left Ft Laramie on the road passed. Little sandy P M 12 miles from where we started Camped on the Big Sandy 4 miles further In the P M saw some mountains in the distance covered with snow

14th Thursday Warm & pleasant Were detained in the morning by the cattle crossing the river Took the road leading down the river although it is some farther; on account of the Green river desert Which by the most direct road is 50 miles across & no water Down the river it is 17 miles We went 27 miles & camped on Big Sandy Charles, Mr. Miner & Nelson went away with the cattle & stayed all night. The Desert is a rolling prairie producing nothing but sage

[July] 15 Friday Pleasant. Went to Green or Colorado river over the desert Camped near a slew from the river no grass for the cattle which have had nothing to eat since morning Saw a N Y. Co.

16th Saturday Pleasant Crossed the river on the ferry paying $6.00 a wagon. They had to drive the cattle some ways up the river to swim them They were loth to swim & it was necessary to drive them in with a drove to get them across consequently we were detained a good part of the day. But notwithstanding the cattle were very tired & hungry having traveled at least 27 miles the day before we were under the necessity of driving 10 miles before camping in order to find grass Camped on Slate creek

[July] 17th Sunday Went about 4 miles & camped for the day on the creek Passed the day very pleasantly Towards night it rained a little but it soon cleared off very pleasantly Found some very pretty specimens of petrified wood

18th Monday Pleasant Concluded to take into our Co a family with one wagon who had been with us two days Another Co of two wagons wished admission but our Co declines. In the P M. uncle G went to find a camp he came back with the report that there was trouble with the indians ahead The story went thus: Two packers from Oregon to the states were overtaken & followed by 8 indians or people disguised as such who tried to entice them away into a ravine by saying there were emigrants there who wished to see them, being unsuccessful in their efforts they attempted to drive off one of their pack mules One of the white men told them that they must desist & stop following them. The indians said they would not & followed them for ten miles One of the indians drew a pistol which the white man saw & dexterously aiming his rifle shot but not till after the ball which the indian shot grazed his breast — On firing the packer saw the blood spirt from the indians side & the other packer fired but they supposed without doubt that the first shot mortally wounded him The indians rode off & the packers came & it was said that 800 or more were in pursuit & people were going on as far as possible to camp for fear of them. We camped near a small stream on a side hill, several camps being near thinking if we were attacked we could all combine & resist it as we supposed the indians would take revenge on the emigrants as we were among the Snakes who are a blood thirsty nation. Soon after our stop these same packers came up & wished shelter & protection for the night Some were in favor of retaining them & some were not but uncle concluded on the whole as there were a number of women & children & few men in the train it was best not to keep them but had no objections to them remaining at either of the other camps if they were willing to keep them It seems the story was in the main true except that there were not more than 12 in pursuit Yet it was expected that the whole nation would soon be in arms A camp near by kept the packers & all prepared to resist should an attack be made. No women but 20 men in the camp

19th Tuesday We woke pleasantly surprised to find ourselves so happy & that we had not been molested. Mr. Judson was well acquainted with one of the packers. He went in the same Co when Mr J crossed the plains 2 years ago He says that the packer is a fine man & would harm no one without provocation Several of the emigrants saw the affray & justify the packers They concluded to return with the emigrants at least until they should meet others with whom they could join so as to make it safe to proceed. Indians came around in the morning spying to find where they were & soon after starting others came up Our road was hilly just before noon they had to double team to ascend a very steep hill I went around to get some snow & saw one of the packers. He appeared rather disconsolate but fearless & very pretty. In the P M. we ascended Quaking asp hill also passed Poplar grove on the top of the Green river mountains The Co in which the 2 men had taken refuge was near us. The Co. consisted of 21 men well armed & no ladies

[July] 20th Wednesday Weather good Road hilly Two long hills to go up & 2 very bad ones to descend. I walked almost all day Camped near Bear river. Some indians came to camp & peeked into the wagons to see if the two men were there, a trader came after they went away he told us that the indians would not tell him what they were around for but that doubtless they were spies & that their object was to kill these men if they could find them. He also said that indians were coming together from different parts & that they were numerous as two or three tribes had joined together & they would visit every train as they had understood they were returning — until they found them & that any one in the tribe would know them if they should see them We knew not whether the trader was sincere or whether he was trying to get some information. The packers camped near

21st Thursday Warm & pleasant No one molested last night Crossed the river on a bridge also three other streams. Road very hilly but not as bad as yesterday Near night we had a long hill to ascend & then to descend, the descent was so bad in one place that they had to find a road for themselves We went a short distance & camped by the river We were annoyed very much by mosquetoes which were the largest I had ever seen. I do not remember where we have camped before when other camps were not in sight 22nd Friday Remained in camp till near noon to recruit the cattle. A company of packers came along & we ascertained that the two fugitives had joined them & as the Co is large we think they are out of danger Uncle & Charles having a few words Charles left & went to Mr. Bryants. Mr. Martin took his place — We went on & it looking like rain camped near a slou it soon rained a perfect torrent. We had to strain the water before using it Grass was excellent. No wood

23 Saturday Pleasant Crossed some bad slues from the river Part of one road was hilly Camped at noon near a fine spring Called I believe White Mound spring It commencing to rain we camped near the river in a very pleasant place

[July] 24 Sunday Pleasant Remained in camp all day. Uncle H preached at 4 oclock. it commenced raining & rained a few minutes After tea Charles left to find another Co for Oregon

25th Monday Pleasant Our road was up the basin we had a number of slues to cross & at about 11 Oclock we arrived at the far famed Soda Springs The first one we visited was clear & the water equalled the best soda water it was very strong It boiled up out of the solid rock — as they all do — & in its ebullitiouns resembles the slakeing of lime Placing the face near the surface the vapor has the same effect which the inhaling of hartshorn15 produces. Two other springs were near which resembles the other except for the color of the water which is of another color. Two hills of soda are near. We camped for noon two miles ahead near the steam boat springs. We passed one spring on the bank of the river Steam-boat spring is so called from the noise of its ebullitions resembling that of a steam boat pipe — as some fancy — This one is very clear and boils up about a foot above the surface it is strong with soda Near this is another small one the waters of which does not at present run over the surface consequently it is dirty it is said to resemble steam boat whistle These springs are near the river. They all come out of a basin of solid rock which where the water flows over is of a copperas color Many rocks around are of a deep yellow color In the P. M. we passed the basin spring Soda water bubbles up into a natural reservoir of stone which is a great curiosity P M. passed through a volcanic region. There were large holes in the ground & rocks had been thrown up some times for rods in length, small one Near here the California route leaves the Oregon trail but some of the California emigrants go up to Ft Hall We went up the bottom & camped near a small stream we drove till after dark for water
[Written in margin] We camped near a place stones looked as if they had been burned

26 Tuesday Road yet leads up the basin Passed a great many slews Camped near a stream near the termination of the valley. This basin is productive. Have seen very little sage since we have been in it

27th Wednesday Pleasant Our road led through a kanyon over the dividing ridge between the waters of Salt lake & those of the Columbia The road to the summit was through a grove of poplar trees & shrubbery The trees were small but the grove was the largest we have seen for a long time The road in the main was good but there were a great many bad places to cross. The descent was better. There were few trees & the grass in some places was a perfect meadow Large rocks were seen on the sides of the mountains perfectly isolated with grass all around them Mr. Martin came near upsetting uncle G’s wagon in crossing a stream Some of the streams were large & very bad to cross. Springs would gush out of the mountains & large streams would flow from them we camped on the bottom near a stream Grass wood & water plenty —

28th Thursday. Left Ft Hall about 19 miles to the north thereby saving 16 miles — it is said that the road is better We were in sight of the Three Butes all day They are three mountain peaks rising high above the chain. We almost: suffered with dust & want of water Near night we came to the Port Neuf river which we had to ford it is large & deep we had to raise our wagon beds. Ft Hall trading post is near

The commander of the Ft. Mr. McArthur16 is very agreeable We camped about a mile on near a fine spring The men from the post came to see us Chas. Co were near

29 Friday Our road was through sage brush Before noon it lead along the Port Neuf river sometimes over hills & then along the river bottom Crossed the Bannoc. Went down into the bottom & camped near the river by a spring. The Ohio Co & the Co where Charles is camped with us. The mosquitoes were very annoying. Heard the Falls

[July] 30 Saturday Pleasant but very dusty. Road lay along by Lewis River a good deal of the way Before noon we came to the American Falls of Lewis river. The falls are not perpendicular but the water dashes & foams down rocks making a grand sight After noon we crossed Falls creek so named from the many cascades in it Some very pretty ones are in sight of the road We traveled in Co. with Charles Co. P M. Towards night we crossed Rock creek Crossing very bad & rocky. The creek is very rocky Camped near Lewis river Some very pretty cedar trees were near Different from any I had ever seen. Grass was very poor —

31st Sunday Pleasant Went a few miles & camped not far from the river between some hills Martha Julia & myself went upon a hill under some trees by ourselves This is the first day since we came in sight of the Rocky mountains that we have not seen snow & I think the first since we came in sight of Laramie Peak.

1st Aug. Monday Pleasant Camped at noon at Raft River Went a mile on the bottom in the morning & then went on to the second bottom trees except on the mountains & no shrubs but sage only on Raft river After noon went over a desert of sage Stopped for tea about 5 Oclock went on until dark but found no water. We had water for ordinary purposes but the cattle had had none since noon & it had been very dusty Found good grass & camped among the sage not a tree or shrub in sight Very warm [Note in margin:] On Raft river the last California trail leaves the Oregon road.

2nd Tuesday Pleasant By getting some water of Mr Beak17 got breakfast before starting but could not wash the dishes Went on through the desert which is 16 miles long Came to a creek & camped Remained two or three hours baking — getting dinner &c. Found a wagon there P M. went on towards night after going I believe about 11 miles came to the river which is here very large went on a ways & camped off from the river No water except from the river & what we had in our casks Saw snow

3 Wednesday Pleasant with a very refreshing breeze It would be very pleasant riding but for the dust. Sage part of the way but in the flat of Goose creek Grass willows & rushes. Stopped for noon near Goose creek Camped for night on the river

[August] 4 Thursday Road rocky some of the way Warm & very dusty Camped for noon on Dry branch for night on Rocky creek The banks are rocky & look like a great chasm or crevice in the earth Some packers camped with us one from Hastings Mr. Holcomb18 —

5th Friday Suffered much with the dust Camped on Rocky creek for dinner Crossed the creek here crossing good. Camped on the creek at night. Aunt Lydia was very sick

Saturday Very dusty — Camped for noon on Lewis river The banks are very steep Also on the river at night. A great ways to water & down a very steep bank. Some rapids near. Wolves howl

Sunday Pleasant remained in camp all day almost impossible to get water on acount of the banks of the river being so high & difficult to ascend. The river seems to have worn away the sand & dirt & to have formed a channel far below the surface of the ground. There were some very fine rapids.above & below us. Martha Julia & myself went down to the river to cook Mr Martin went with us Indians were around almost all day. We bought some very [unreadable] of them. They dry [unreadable] very bad but we were obliged to remain to rest the cattle.

8th Monday Went about five miles to a creek & camped. Good grass about two miles on the bluff. Good water handy to get at. Julia Martha & I went to the creek to wash There was a warm spring about half a mile up the ravine Mister Long came to see us A family camped near us — one wagon. some fine rapids were near in the river

[unreadable] Tuesday Remained in camp [unreadable] the men put [unreadable] the wagon wheel of uncle Harveys wagon which was broken before Pa found a cow. One of Mr Bryants oxen died They did not know he was sick We went about 7 miles & camped on the river. Some part of the road was dangerous Saw some very fine falls from streams on the north side of the river the first was a perpendicular fall of many feet in height most of the others issued out of the banks of the river & falling several ft. flowed [into?] the river. There were [unreadable] of them all [unreadable] interesting [unreadable] Saw some large lizards.

10th Wednesday Went to the ferry a short distance. This family that were with us Mr. Russel lost an ox in the morning Mr. Beal left our company. Mr Russel had 3 yokes of oxen & one span of horses Their Ladies have walked nearly all of the way. Saw at the ferry a horse which had been bitten by scorpions dying. A short distance below the ferry is Salmon Falls They are perpendicular [unreadable] but not very high [unreadable] very scraggy [unreadable] very pretty and interesting. Crossed the ferry paying $6.00 per wagon They paid $10.00 to some men for swimming the cattle over on account of the difficulty of doing so for the swiftness of the current and the width of the river & also the weakness of the cattle Went about 4 miles & camped in a valley by a small stream very beautiful sage wood & water [in margin:] Bad & rocky road

[August] 11th Thursday Pleasant. Remained in camp until after noon [unreadable] very well. Alta19 very sick. I stayed with them last night. Julia & I washed for Mrs. B[ryant] & Martha baked for her. Went about 6 miles road hilly went down a very fast hill then up one. Camped on Rock creek Did not get into camp till after dark. Road — through sage brush.

12th Friday Crossed the two Rocky creeks The ladies went below where a natural bridge crosses the south creek. The banks of the stream are perpendicular [unreadable] I should think water comes down in a waterfall just above the bridge and then foams & dashes over under & between huge rocks making a grand sight. The water is nearly 20 ft. deep I should judge Just below the bridge the other stream comes in. We went a short distance & crossed by the assistance of Mr. Long who was with us. Traveled about 15 miles & camped near a small stream Grass excellent I sat up with aunt Elizabeth to cook & slept with [unreadable]

13th Saturday Warm & dusty [unreadable] stream Good grass & water Willows for fuel. Mountain wheat higher than my head Captain Brant20 [Grant] & co. from Ft. Vancouver called & made us a visit. Captain took tea with us. He had been to Ft Hall to dispose of some government property — Also to Salt Lake He brought us a few potatoes 14th Sunday Warm & pleasant Remained in camp. In the P M. one wagon came & camped near [unreadable] of the ladies was [unreadable] Miss Harrison [unreadable] many seasons in Oswego & its society. Towards eve a Mr. Rowley21 & a Mr. Cook from a Ohio train came & made us a visit Mr. C. has formerly lived in Adams. Gustavus sick

[August] 15 Monday Warm & dusty I rode on horse back in the AM. for Gustavus who was not much better than yesterday. Several trains traveled near us in one was a lady who was recently married, her husband had near Pacific springs I hear set her out of the [unreadable] giving her her [unreadable] Another Co took her in & like her very much The husband says she was ugly to his children she being his second wife. Went through sage 8 miles Stopped for noon in a bad place on a high hill. Had to go down a steep long hill for water. Went about 4 miles & camped in a valley Grass good, also water. Charly came to see us. They have lost 4 yokes of oxen in 3 days. Mr. Bryants [unreadable] sick yet Two of our [unreadable] rattle snakes in the vicinity [In margin:] Nelson found [unreadable] scorpions by his

[August 16, Tuesday] Pleasant. Before noon went up some very long hills Numerous hills were in sight which were very precipitous & flat on the top The top strata seemed to be of rock which looked as if it was laid up by the hand of man on the sides & on the top& with equal thickness. The hills were very high & seemed as if formed of [unreadable] Our road was the [unreadable] Camped for night [unreadable] 6 miles before [unreadable] Saw some trees which were a welcome sight to us. They were the black thorn berries sweet where the heat was almost intolerable several camps were very near. Went about 4 miles Gustavus was sick. I rode for him the horse stumbled & threw me off. Camped in the vicinity of numerous pools which I should think proceeded from a stream underground Sprinkkled some in the PM.

17th Wednesday Some part of the day was [unreadable] & very pleasant. It [unreadable] some. From all [unreadable] could get we supposed we had two 15 mile drives before us & we were much surprised at noon on coming to a fine stream Camped late near a sulphur spring. Other springs were near. It rained in the evening.

[August] 18th Thursday In about 4 miles we came to some hot springs. The water was boiling hot. It was with difficulty we succeeded in washing our hands There were [unreadable] and streams flowed from them. They were to us a great curiosity. Camped for dinner near a fine stream. A violent shower of rain came on to gladden our hearts. Camped for night near Barrel spring Valley beautiful. Very high bluffs were on either side The stream delightful Black thorn trees a little up the gorge Grass good. Valley covered with mountain wheat Have seen [unreadable] or train for two [unreadable] some Road [unreadable]

19th Friday Road hilly stony in the morning but good the rest of the day. The hills were very peculiar Huge rocks being on the top of the ground each one seemingly disdaining the acquaintance of his neighbor. Some were I should think nearly 50 ft. in height. The hills all day were of this character Camped for noon [unreadable] no water, [unreadable] covered with snow on the south west. Passed through less sage & more grass camped for night near a number of springs Some were impregnated with iron Grass up the kenyon eleven ft. in highth. Mountain wheat hear very high

20th Saturday The road for almost two miles was through kenyon [unreadable] willow & rose bushes Very pleasant. Passed two fine streams before noon Road hilly Hills covered with grass. Much prefer a hilly road as it is not so monotonous. We are anxiously looking forward to see where the road goes & what we are coming to next. Camped for noon near some springs A Co. came & camped near Glad to have company again. Went [unreadable] Boise river [unreadable] did not [unreadable] went about 15 miles 10 Oclock Saw a commet very plain in the SW Found a scorpion near our fire

21st Sunday Pleasant Started on before breakfast as we had no water. Crossed over three bottoms before reaching the river The first is covered with sage. The second with sage. The second with woods The 3 with grass. The river is skirted most of the way with Balm of Gilead Poplar & [unreadable] trees & bushes of [unreadable] We were truly refreshed by the sight of a grove of trees again. Went about 6 miles before reaching the river. On camping we moved our cooking utensils, victuals &c to an adjacent grove where were plenty of wood & water & withal a delightful shade which none know better how to appreciate than those who have traveled in dust & sage their eyes [unreadable] by the sight of a tree for weeks [unreadable] if they chance to see one it is on some adjacent mountain O we enjoyed this beautiful retreat. Taking grass, wood, water & every thing into consideration I think we have never had a more pleasant camp. From the invitation of a gentleman uncles went to a neighboring camp to hold meeting in the evening We went with them [unreadable] 60 persons were [unreadable] Had a very pleasant [unreadable]

[August] 22 Monday Went about 10 miles down the river before dinner road good but dusty — PM went about 6 more Met Mr Marsh from Michigan, brother in law of L F Devendorf. He & another gentleman Mr Walter have a cart & one span of horses. Camped by the river in a beautiful place grass excellent [In margin:] Road through grass

23 Tuesday Pleasant. Mr. Marsh came to see us in the [unreadable] bad hill to ascend in the morning Road went along on the bluffs until noon then struck down on to the river thence on the bluff & down to the river at night. On the bluffs were some sage & some weeds & some grass. Our camp at night was the best we have had on the road. Grass grew luxuriously all about. We were close to the river as pretty a stream [unreadable] ever saw with a [unreadable] as clear as crystal. Mr Marsh came & took tea with us & Mr Walter also. The commet shown very brilliantly in the evening [In margin:] indians came to the camp at noon we bought some fish of them

24 Wednesday Pleasant but uncomfortably warm as it has been since we have been on the Boissee. In the morning a great many indians came to camp with fish which they wished to exchange for clothing. We bought a number. The Salmon [unreadable] here are [unreadable] indians (the Diggers) cannot understand the Eng. language. They understand & use the words swap & no swap, which words they make use of in trading. We occasionally meet one with whom Uncle G & his family can converse in the Chinook dialect & jargon used by the indians of western Oregon These indians are dressed in any old clothing they can [unreadable] the emigrants Some [unreadable] others are fully clad. They seem most anxious to get shirts & socks. They seem to be better clad than the Sioux but from the fact of not having seen many with clothing of their own manufacture which is a shirt — I should think that aside from what they get of emigrants they wear at least no more than that nation, [unreadable] similar to yesterday [unreadable] AM. Camped [unreadable] Went about miles before dinner Crossed the river after dinner & went down about 6 miles & camped on the north bank (north west) in a very pretty place. It seems so delightful to be among grass & near trees & bushes. Had a fine bath in the river

[August] 25th Thursday Warm as usual. Much inconvenience from dust Went about 8 miles before [unreadable] Camped on the river [unreadable] more after dinner and camped on the river. Had a very fine camp. This is the most beautiful river I have seen. In all the distance we have come down it there has not been a single tributary to it

26th Friday Pleasant. Went about a mile & a half to the ferry. Crossed the wagons in safety But in swimming the cattle we soon found our troubles had but now commenced [unreadable] with much [unreadable] swim at all but at length they were all safely over. Pa who rode a horse, as he had not done before & assisted in driving them By some cause or other he went too far down the river his horse rared with him & saying ‘I must take care of myself got off He endeavored to get hold of the horse — as he let go of the bridle — but being on the lower side the currant took him down & the horse swam out of his reach. He [unreadable] to an island but finding [unreadable] strong turned to the [unreadable] dont be scared I am [unreadable] He soon sank [unreadable] in heart Most of the men were near but none of them dared go in the danger was too great Uncle G swam in & got out pa’s hat. They had previously hallowed for assistance & some indians went with a canoe but to no purpose The men came & informed us of the distressing calamity of which we had heard nothing I will not attempt to describe our distress & sorrow for our great Bereavement22 But I know that our loss is his gain that he is yet [unreadable] & he loves [unreadable] watch over me & continue to guide me An indian chief being with us with whom uncle G could talk in the Chinook dialect— took several of his men who were expert swimmers & divers & made every exertion to get the body but were unsuccessful. With hearts overflowing with sorrow we were under the necessity of pursuing our journey immediately as there was no grass for the cattle where we were. Messrs Marsh & Walter being with [unreadable] services were engaged [unreadable] Marsh drove our team & went about a mile camped on a river It seems that Pa had a presentment that something was to happen as he had often spoken of his dread of crossing at this crossing Wolves howled

[August] 27th Saturday Took water with us & went about 15 miles to Malheur river & camped, road pretty good mostly through sage Our camp was in a very pretty place but all was sadness to me

28th Sunday Very pleasant Remained in camp The men [unreadable] nearly all [unreadable] The new road [unreadable] the Willamette valley above Oregon city saving 150 miles distance leaves the old trail near this place. But from all we can learn it is not at present a feasible route except for packers because no wagons have been through. A trading post is near kept by a Mr Turner. He went to Oregon two years ago in the same co with Mr Judson. They wintered at Salt Lake. The mormons got something against him & he was obliged to hide himself [unreadable] Mr Judson [unreadable] when no one [unreadable] two of his associates betrayed him He was taken back to the city & tried & was acquitted

29th Monday Pleasant Went about 2 miles & crossed the Malheur river Took water & went on Camped for noon under a bluff. Went on until after dark some time no water after crossing the river in the morning made 25 miles Road rather hilly Camped by a small stream

30 Tuesday Warm & dusty Went over hills to Burnt river [unreadable] & in trying to extinguish the flames uncle G Aunt L & Julia burnt their hands quite bad Crossed the river twice after noon After the first crossing the road led through under a canopy of bushes which would have been delightful had we not been looking out for dangerous places all the time. Went till after dark again Camped near the river. It was dark & rainy. Lightning played around the mountain tops which rose several hundred feet on all sides of us.

[August] 31 Wednesday It was cloudy & cool which was very fortunate on account of hilly bad roads Stopped for noon on the river Crossed the river (Burnt) nine times Our road was the most intricate of any day since we started Sometimes crossing the river & then recrossing immediately thence through a beautiful grove of poplars & Balm of Gileads then perhaps over a steep high hill & then to the river & then through a thicket of bushes Sumach [unreadable] cherry so dense that [unreadable] through them [unreadable] In the PM. towards night we left that branch of Burnt river which we had been travelling up nearly all the afternoon & crossed over a very high steep hill & camped on a small stream. Have heard birds sing occasionally since we came to the Boise river

1st Sept. Thursday No so warm as it has been very pleasant. Road better than yesterday but hilly before noon came on to a flat through which runs Burnt river Camped on the river at noon Went up the valley. Road good Camped at night in the valley [unreadable] Made about 15 miles [unreadable] crossing of Snake river we [unreadable] cattle Many are [unreadable] while some are stopped

2nd Friday Pleasant with a cool breeze from the mountains. Went up the valley a short distance which had here become quite narrow Then taking water struck over the hills the first of which was long & steep to the valley of Powder river. When on the hills we first beheld the Blue mountains proper, Although we had been traveling amid spurs of them for several days. These mountains are mostly covered with timber & appeared as we [unreadable] them even more grand [unreadable] than the Rocky [unreadable] Camped by a little river among the hills for dinner. Ascended soon more hills first saw the mountains & after descending some long ones came on to the valley of Powder river. There we found sage again Camped in the valley where there was some grass but no water. [In margin:] Went 20 miles

3rd Saturday It rained considerable in the night but it having ceased we started on before breakfast for water Mountains looked magnificant Soon were nearly enveloped in dense clouds while around others smaller clouds hovered in all a delightful placidity [unreadable] delightful scenery & but for the casualty which one week ago deprived me of my only earthly parent, how well might I have enjoyed it Went 5 miles to a slue where we breakfasted. We then went to the river 8 miles & camped for the night. A family with one wagon came & camped near The man crossed the plains 2 years since & getting out of provisions at the first crossing of Snake river went all the remainder of the way with nothing but fish & such game as they could [unreadable] In the evening some indians came offunreadable] some peas & potatoes paying $ 1.00 for 4 qts of peas & the same for one mess of potatoes. Afterwards two others came of whom we purchased salmon These Kayuse indians seem rather intelligent and often well dressed

[September] 4th Sunday Pleasant. Went 10 miles to water & camped for the day Road good with some hills. Mr Gray the gentleman from Oregon23 whom I first saw at St Louis came up & camped with us. He had a drove of sheep. He had a baggage [unreadable] teams & a light wagon drawn by horses [unreadable] oxen he was obliged to leave his heavy wagon. He then bought horses & is packing through & takes his carriage for the ladies. His sheep are some ways behind.

5th Monday Pleasant. Went about 7 miles to Grande Ronde This is a fertile valley 8 miles across & 20 miles long entirely encompassed by mountains & watered by Grande Ronde river The road comes in from the south & goes out at the west Camped for [unreadable] a valley & near the trading post. We were thronged with indians nearly all on ponies. It reminded me very forcibly of an old fashioned general training They had plenty of money $50.00 gold pieces which they probably got by selling horses to emigrants After dinner we went 8 miles to the other side of the valley Camped near a pretty mountain stream. Indian lodges near. Thronged with indians during our stay. Some belong to the Kayuses some to the Nez Perces. At our noon camp [unreadable] perce chief with whom [unreadable] some acquaintance He seemed very pleasant & spoke Eng. with such a pleasing awquardness as to amuse us very much Others were there who had seen uncle. Before noon we met many mostly women on ponies who said they were travelling to the Shoshone country. They had peas with them for food which they would swap for flour or bread. One proposed to swap her baby for, a shirt. These indians here seem more intelligent & happy than any we have seen

6th Tuesday Pleasant. Remained in camp till noon The men [unreadable] wagon boxes [unreadable] wagon & ours & lightened loads as much as possible Uncles bought each of them a horse with their saddles One woman wished me to swap a gold ring for an old brass thimble We went on after noon The road was very hilly. The hills covered with timber Firs Pines & a little spruce. The trees are some distance apart The. ground covered with a little grass & rose bushes &c. Went 8 miles & camped in a ravine. Very lonesome Mr Miner left on foot

[September 7] Wednesday [unreadable] Cool breeze every after noon [unreadable] very delightful with the exception of being hilly The road was smooth & nice The forest beautiful. The ground is covered with grass. The trees are far apart Often large places entirely devoid of them. Frequently small patch of little trees nearly of a size looking very beautiful. Our night camp was on an open space covered with little stones & some grass. There was no water but we had come prepared for our noon camp which [unreadable] [in margin:] we being alone sounded very lonesome

8 Sept. Thursday Pleasant Went twelve miles without water. Road bad. Very hilly & in some places stony. Forest more interesting Sometimes the road was very bad winding around trees &c. Camped at night at Lee’s Encampment. Ritchie’s train near.24 Mr. Bailey one of the men who was with Mr. Leonard came on says Mr. L is going through on foot as are many others We have lost 4 oxen in all up to this time

9th Friday Pleasant. Some part of the way the road was good but hilly but much better than yesterday. Went 17 miles without water Had no dinner. Before night we came out of timber & were on hills covered with bunch grass Came on to the Umatilla valley & camped on a branch of that river Several trains were near also a trading post

10th Saturday Pleasant went 5 miles to the river then about 2 miles on where we dined Went down 8 miles & The road was not on the river but the country is a rolling prairie. Camped on the river at night Timber a spicies of poplar Dr Hills train near

11th Sunday Crossed the river on starting Uncle H’s wagon upset no one hurt Nothing injured except some things [unreadable] Left the river in about 1½ miles and went on to the prairie again carried water with us Dined on the prarie about 4½ miles from the river. Went 9 miles on the river again road good

[September] 12th Monday Went about 5 miles, crossed the river, then struck over to a creek ten miles Road good. Camped for noon 6 miles from starting. Saw at the river a house — The Ind. agency25 — the first building which looked like civilization since Laramie Country rolling

13th Tuesday Went 18 miles over a rolling country without water except what we carried for culinary purposes— Road good Scenery pretty Camped for night by a spring. I have drank more unhealthy water never muddier [unreadable] camps near. Wind blew very hard all the PM. Dust very oppressive Sand blew into the tent during supper so as to cover the dishes. Rained at night

14th Wednesday Road very much as yesterday if any thing more hilly Not so windy as yesterday No water. Made 18 miles Camped on a creek. A trading post was near kept by a gentleman from Oswego County. 18 graves near Several camps around. Have passed trading posts nearly every day since we left Grand Ronde

15th Thursday Several horses & cattle were missing & we remained in camp till after dinner when all were found. Went about 10 miles. Very hilly. Road good. Cold & windy. Scenery pretty when on the hills. Made a [unreadable]

[September] 16th Friday Went about a mile & over hills & then came into a valley went up it 9 miles to a spring then struck over the hills to John Days river The descent to the river is steep & rocky in some places but smooth most of the way Dined by the river then crossed & ascended a very bad hill. Very long & rocky much more so than any we had passed before The river is about 3 [unreadable] from the spring. Went two miles from the river & made a dry camp. After ascending the hill we came to two roads one leading to the upper & the other to the lower ferry of the DeShoots river We took the lower road because the river is sometimes fordable at the lower ferry

17th Saturday Rather cold. Road hilly but good. Went 15 miles without water Camped near [unreadable] of very impure water A trading post near by flour 25 a pound First came in sight of Mount Rainir

18 Sunday Pleasant Went 5 miles to the Columbia down it about 2 then we forded the DeShoots near its mouth. It is a large river & very rapid. Before crossing we very unexpectedly met Uncle Joseph Hines who was sent out as a missionary after we left N Y.26 he left N Y May 20th with his family who are now near Portland all well. He ascertained from Mr Grey who had arrived at P our whereabouts & came out to meet us. We were almost oveijoyed at so unexpected a meeting Uncle J piloted us across the river (an indian had just done the same for him) The current was so strong that it was almost impossible to guide the oxen & prevent them from going down stream We came very near upsetting in the river in very deep water & the current was so strong We went out 4 miles & camped near a stream Our road was very hilly Mr Marsh left us this morning but is still in the train

19th Monday Pleasant Went about 7 miles over hills & then down the river 3 to the Dalls. It had been our intention to cross the cascades but uncle J advised us to go by the Dalls [unreadable] our wagons & go ourselves down the river and send the cattle & horses down the pack trail which goes along near the river. In the eve. we went to a store & found a Mr Newell with whom Uncle G was acquainted in Oregon.27 Dr N was the first man who crossed the plains with wagons. He said he often wished his wagons would break so that he might have an excuse for leaving them but they did not & he came with them, a thing which we have often spoken of as being impossible. The Dr treated us very kindly & gave us some apples

[September] 20th Tuesday Very warm. The men had engaged a barge to take us to the Cascades & we put our things on board & went on our selves but it began to leak & we were obliged to get off also to remove our baggage Dr Newell told us if we would leave the baggage until the next day & go down on the steam boat he would be responsible for there safe arrival in a day or two. Marsh & Walter with them [unreadable] Martin Judson [in margin: Uncle Joseph went with the cattle] Accordingly we took what provision & clothing was necessary & repaired on board the steam boat Allan28 which was already crowded with passengers It is a poor apology for a boat very small having no cabin & we were obliged to seat ourselves as best we could on the floor or whatever we could find to sit upon. This is the only steam boat which plies between the Dalls & the Cascades. It was brought here last spring from the Sacramento being the first steam boat which ever run on that river Were about 7 hours running down (50 miles) The scenery was very romantic indeed. The banks of the river are mostly perpendicular rocks from one to a hundred feet in height. This river is not so wide as the Ohio but much deeper and unlike that river the waters of the Columbia are clear & pure. We landed on a stony beach after dark but succeeded in finding a sandy place & made our camp. We had brought our beds but had no tents so we made our beds under the star-spangled arch of heaven & thought no one could wish a more magnificent canopy

[September] 21st Wednesday In the morning we found we were very fortunate in the selection of a camp ground as it is the only place near the landing which is level & uncovered by stones Many were less fortunate. A boat came in before noon laden with emigrants who camped around us. There are several barges that pass between The Dalls & this place. Few boats except those of the Hudson’s Bay Co. run over the Cascades This Co. run over the Cascades losing it is said about one boat in ten Our baggage not come

22nd Thursday Pleasant Walked out to see the scenery which is very romantic We are entirely hemmed in by the Cascade Mountains some of the immediate peaks of which some of our party judge to be 1000 ft in heighth. There is a mountain on the north side of the river river some distance from it. The side next to the river of which is perpendicular & clearly shows the action of water & I should think that this perpendicularity was caused by the Columbia’s first bursting through the mountains & that the channel of the river was once near its base All the mountains here are covered with fir trees some very densely others more sparingly. The Cascades here are rapids nothing in comparison to the rapids at Niagara. The indians say — some of the oldest — that they can remember a time when there were no cascades here & they ran their canoes through the mountains, that they were caused by land-slides from the mountains. There are three stores here a bakery & boarding house & there is a wooden rail road between here & the lower landing 5 miles. At night the steam boat came in towing the barge on which were our wagons & luggage. All were safe. It sprinkled some in the evening

23rd Friday Messrs Judson, Marsh & Walter came with some of the cattle The others were behind — they thought that they would not be here in a day or two as there is so much danger of losing the trail as there are so many diverging from the right one. They had taken provision for but two days the length of time we were informed it would take to come down but we have ascertained it usually takes five but provision is to be obtained at the ferry

24th Saturday It rained in the night & the temporary tent which uncle H had put up leaked & we became very wet not many of our things were wet but the bedding. Called at one of the stores & the merchant gave us some peaches which were truly a rarity as we have been deprived of fruit all summer Some of the emigrants left to day. They make the portage of 5 miles & then take a boat again Uncles G & H started this morning to meet those with the cattle The would [have] went yesterday but were obliged to put the wagon together which had been taken apart at The Dalls

25th Sunday Warm & pleasant I was sick all day. Our party received several calls from gentlemen stopping here & I am informed that the land in this vicinity is nearly all taken

26th Monday Another barge came in loaded with emigrants. Dr. Hill & Mr Richey among the rest. Messrs Bryant & Judson with their families left this morning About noon Uncle H. & J. came uncle J has the ague & fever so they came down the river. They think the cattle will be here to day. It seems that they were induced to cross at the upper ferry & the road was so bad that it delayed them two days. They came before dark & a tired Co they were

[September] 27th Tuesday Very warm. Uncle J had the ague & fever which detained us here to day Had an invitation to attend a party at the boarding house.

28th Wednesday Very warm We started for the lower Cascades early. There is a wooden rail road 2½ miles down. The highway is very bad. We were obliged on that account to go all the way on foot. We arrived there without any accident. The walk down was delightful Were it not for our anxiety about the teams it would have been truly enchanting. The scenery is exceedingly wild Mountains towered 100’s of feet above us & the river now rolling in terrific madness now as placid as a sleeping infants brow. Camped at the Lower Cascade for the night. A gentleman presented us a water melon There is one public house here, a two story frame one — Steam boat Multnomah29 came up [in margin:] Four sail boats were in.

[September 29] Thursday After dinner went on board the steam boat Peytona30 on which we had previously conveyed our things & went down 30 miles to Sandy [River] The trip was delightful Rocky islands rear their craggy peaks far above the surface of the water. There is a high rocky precipice called Cape Horn The scenery is very beautiful here. When some more than half way down we were startled by the intelligence that the boiler was empty. The fire was immediately put out & the boiler refilled. Had this not been discovered when it was we should probably been the victims of an explosion. When nearly down we were somewhat frightened by the captains rushing up to the pilot in great agitation who seemed also to be much excited the cause of which we knew not [printed copy ends here] but it seemed the boat struck a snag & was in danger Camped at the Sandy Found a Mr. Crosby31 there who invited us all to his house

30th Friday Mr. C came with oxen to take our wagons & other things up there Here we sat in a chair for the second time since leaving Missions. Slept in our wagons. One of Uncle Gustavus appointments is here

1st Oct. Saturday Very pleasant. We were camped near Mr. Crosby’s. Country very fine Every kind of vegitable grows large. Melons plenty. Cattle came this morning all well Concluded to remain over sabbath

2nd Sunday held meeting Mother not well Mr. Martin left for Portland Went to see Mr. Russels people who were camped near. Mrs. C[rosby] has taken [unreadable word: could be “Bonney” or “Benney”] Eliza’s horse

3rd Monday Started for Portland with two wagons & two yokes of oxen on each Road not very good on account of the close proximity of the trees. The land is all taken on the road. We took the things out of the wagons. Went to the parsonage with our baggage Uncle G had left his at Sandy There we met Rev C S Kingsley32 who invited us to his house where we went were very pleasantly entertained Mr. Sfhipley] is principal of the academy here. Mr. & Mrs. Dryer called33

4th Tuesday Remained at Mr. Kingsleys. This is a very pleasant location overlooking the city. Mount Hood rears its snow capped summit in the distance. I engaged to teach for Mr Kingsley [unreadable] a week & board. Went down to the parsonage which is a very fine house. The ship on which our boxes were shipped has arrived and is discharging her cargo. Uncle H’s boxes are out now Mr. Miner came

[October] 5th Wednesday Aunt Lydia, Julia & Lucy Anna started for Oregon city intending to stop at Mr. Durhams34 Where aunt Elizabeth is. I went into school Liked it very much. The girls are in my department and the boys in Mr. K’s. Went to singing school

6th Thursday Pleasant. Like school as well as yesterday. Uncle H’s people went to house keeping. I went to prayer meeting in the evening Uncle Joseph & family are at uncle Harveys Gustavus earned $2.00

7th Friday Every thing pleasant in school Mother is sick and has been since she has been here. Took calomel to day Aunt Elizabeth has the ague. Gustavus spent $2.00 shopping. I went to uncle Harvey’s. Saw uncle G’s family for the first time. Uncle G house. I can do better teaching at Oswego. Attended singing school in the evening. Mr. Shipley teacher Pleasant, [unreadable] Julia.

8th Saturday No school to day I went to uncle Harvey’s & opened our boxes which have been out a day or two Every thing comes out right Nothing damaged. Went down town for the first time. Was surprised at the business aspect of the place [unreadable] returned to Oswego

[October] 9th Sunday Attended church AM. Much pleased with the looks of the congregation Did not attend in the evening on account of rain. Mother a little better Messers Marsh & Walter came to see us

10th Monday Uncle H’s people went to Oswego Rather rainy this morning Gustavus splitting wood here

11th Tuesday Commenced raining a little before noon.

EPILOGUE

There was another family who accompanied the Hines’ 1853 wagon train: the Judsons, Holdon A. and his wife Phoebe Goodell Judson. About 72 years later in 1925, Phoebe Judson’s reminiscences of her life was published in Bellingham, Washingon. Part of the work described in intimate detail the overland experience. The book was called A Pioneer’s Search for an Ideal Home. We have republished below selections from the Judson book that add to the knowledge of Celinda Hines’ experience of the journey:

It is the oft repeated inquiry of my friends as to what induced me to bury myself more than fifty years ago on this far-off corner of the world, that has determined me to take my pen in hand at this late day.

Did I come around the Horn, cross the Isthmus, or come across the plains? Was 1 not afraid of the Indians, and much more they ask. So I have decided to answer them all and singly by writing a short history of our pioneer life, and to affectionately dedicate my book to the memory of the late Holden A. Judson, my dear husband, who journeyed with me for half a century in the wilderness.

This will be but a condensed narrative of events which I shall endeavor to recall out of the mists of the past, written with no attempt at literary display, containing no fiction, but simply a record of the homely, everyday incidents of a plain woman, who has now exceeded her three score years and ten, and who has roughed it in the early fifties on the extreme northwestern frontier … [p. 7]

 

Our pioneer story begins where love stories (more is the pity) frequently terminate, for Holden Allen Judson and Phoebe Newton Goodell had been joined in the holy bonds of matrimony three years before we decided to emigrate to the vast and uncultivated wilderness of Puget Sound, which at that time was a part of Oregon.

Little did I realize how much it meant when I promised the solemn, but kindly faced, minister in the presence of a large assembly of friends, to obey, as well as to love, the one whom I had chosen for a partner through life, for the thought of becoming a pioneer’s wife of only seventeen summers, romantically inclined, should have chosen from among her suitors one possessing a spirit of adventure.

Mr. Judson was five years my senior. Seldom were two more congenially mated to travel the rough voyage of life. Both were endowed with vigorous health, fired with ambition and a love of nature.

Our childhood days were spent together in the little town of Vermillion, Ohio, located midway between Cleveland and Sandusky, on the shores of Lake Erie, on whose beaches we strolled, and on whose blue waters we sailed in company, little dreaming our future lives were destined to be passed together on the far away shore of Puget Sound … [pp. 7–8.]

My parents had already found a home on the banks of the Willamette, in Oregon.

The parting with my husband’s parents and only sister was very affecting, as he was their only son and brother, and our little two-year-old Annie their idol … [pp. 9–10.]

 

Gustavus Hines was elected captain; we could not have made a better choice. As a leader, he was qualified by experience, and his personal appearance and manners commanded our admiration and respect, inspiring our little band with hope and courage. When leading the train, mounted on a magnificent gray horse, I looked upon him more as a general than a captain — often mentally comparing him to General Winfield Scott. On him devolved the duty of selecting our camping places. On Saturday he was particularly careful to select a suitable situation for our Sabbath encampment, which would afford water and grass for our cattle, these being of the first importance … [p. 11]

 

We reached La Bonta [LaBonte] Creek on Saturday, a little before sundown, and made our encampment on its banks, among the cottonwood trees, one of the most charming spots of the whole route, where we found good water, grass and wood — which was greatly appreciated.

The Sabbath dawned most serenely upon us, a bright, lovely morning, the twenty-sixth of June. I am certain of the date, for the day was made memorable to me by the birth of a son.

Monday morning our party were so considerate of my welfare, and that of the “new emigrant,” that they proposed remaining in camp for a day or two. I assured them that we were both very comfortable, and, though reluctant to leave this most beautiful spot (the romantic birthplace of our baby boy) I urged them to proceed with the journey.

The next morning we found the name of Platte La Bonta inscribed on our wagon cover. The name was suggested by the captain in commemoration of the birthplace on La Bonta Creek, in the Platte valley.

The name did not exactly suit me, so we compromised by adopting half of it, adding his grandfather’s name, Charles! so the little fellow took his place in the ranks of life under the name of Charles La Bonta Judson … [p. 39.]

The captain decreed that our wagon should lead the train (although it was not our turn), saying if “our wagon was obliged to halt the rest would also.”

It proved the roughest day’s journey through the Black Hills. The wind blew a perfect gale, and while going down some of the rough sidling hills it seemed that the wagon would capsize; but I had little to fear, for Mr. Judson had become an expert in handling his team. Some of the ladies remarked that “he drove over the stones as carefully as though they were eggs.”

When we halted for our noon lunch the ladies hurried to our wagon with anxious inquiries. Are you alive? etc. I quieted their fears by informing them that little “Bonta” and I were doing finely — that Annie held on to her little brother with both hands while going down the steepest hills, for fear that he would roll out of bed among the pots and kettles. Mr. Judson had buttoned and tied the wagon covers down so closely that I could not get a peep out, and I suffered but little inconvenience from the wind and dust … [pp. 40–41.]

I was able to sit in the little rocking chair my kind husband had thoughtfully purchased for my comfort the last thing before starting on our journey … [p. 42.]

The oldest couple were good Jedediah Hines (who was called “Diah” for short), and his devoted wife, who was always by his side while he drove the team. When he got into the wagon to rest, she did also, but not before. The influence of these loving spirits was felt as a benediction by all in our little band.

Usually on the Sabbath Captain [Gustavus] Hines or his youngest brother, Harvey Hines, preached us a short discourse, of a nature to cheer our drooping spirits. The three brothers took turns in leading our daily devotional exercises of the camp. This family altar in the solitude of the wilderness was very impressive … [pp. 58–59.]

When we reached Fort Boise we found that our wagons must be ferried over the Snake river at the exorbitant price of eight dollars per wagon. The families were safely ferried over, and we made hasty preparations to have dinner ready by the time the swimming of the stock should be accomplished. Having replenished our stock of provisions at the fort, we were enabled to provide a better bill of fare than usual; and as this was the last crossing of this dreaded river we were all in the best of spirits, hoping soon to be out of the Snake river region.

Dinners were ready, and had been waiting for some time, when Mrs. Diah and Harvey Hines, becoming uneasy at the delay, and fearful that some accident had happened, started to go to the river and were met by a messenger with the shocking intelligence that one of our number was drowned.

From a fearful premonition, or spiritual perception, Mrs. Diah Hines cried, “Oh, it is my husband, I know it is Diah.” Yes, her husband was drowned in the treacherous stream. His horse had thrown him, while helping to swim the stock, and he probably was hurt, as he did not come to the surface.

It was with much difficulty that the loving wife who was so suddenly overwhelmed with anguish was kept from throwing herself into the river. As I again recall this pathetic incident of our journey, I find myself again weeping in sympathy with the stricken ones.

Each felt his loss a personal loss, for he was not only a loving husband, affectionate father and brother, but possessed as social and genial a nature as ever animated the human form.

There was no food here for our stock, and, though our sorrowful hearts longed to linger a while near the watery resting place of our beloved friend, we were obliged to proceed on our journey, meditating on the mysteries of death, of which we only see the dark side. Could the veil, or shadow, of material nature be lifted we would witness the transition, and what appears so fearful would then be as glorious to us as to the angels in heaven … [pp. 62–63.]

1 A.S. Taylor and W.M. McKinney, “Squire Hoffman’s Comet,” Idaho Yesterdays, III, No. 2 (Summer, 1959), pp. 2–4.

2 Gary W. Kronk, Comets, A Descriptive Catalogue (Washington, D.C., 1984), p. 44. Professor Donald B. Brownlee, Astronomy Department, University of Washington, Seattle, correspondence.

3(Portland, 1918 ), pp. 69–125.

4 Ibid., p. 125.

5 Joseph Wilkinson Hines, Touching Incidents in the Life and Labors of a Pioneer on the Pacific Coast Since 1853, (San Jose, California, 1911 ), passim.

6“Rev. Gustavus Hines,” Howard M. Corning, Dictionary of Oregon History (Portland, 1956 ), p. 114.

7 Ibid., “Rev. Harvey K. Hines,” pp. 114–15.

8 See entry for August 26, below, pp. 115.

9 September 8, 1857, p. 3, col. 6.

10 Ibid., Feb. 2 2, 18 59, p. 3, col. 1.

11 “Abram Walts,” Obituary, giving facts of life and family, Pacific Christian Advocate, Dec. 23, 1886.

12 The Chester Terrys are listed in the Marion Co., OR, federal censuses for 1860 and 1870.

13 “Pioneer Seat of Learning: The Portland Academy and Female Seminary,” Oregon Native Son, II (Nov., 1900), pp. 286–94.

14 The story of the Methodist choir is told in Joseph Gaston, Portland, Oregon, Its History and Its Builders (Chicago, 1911 ), pp. 408–10.

15 Oregon Statesman, Oct. 10, 1854, p. 3, col. 1.

16 Lewis A. McArthur, “Earliest Oregon Postoffices as Recorded at Washington,” Oregon Hist. Qtly., XLI (March, 1940 ), p. 57.

l7 The Adam R. Shipley and Co., papers: correspondence, invoices and legal documents, 1852-63, are in the University of Oregon Library, Ms. 947.

18 There is a reference to this in a fascinating collection of documents that describe the lives of the Shipley family. This collection is in the Oregon State Supreme Court Records in the State Archives in Salem Case No. 02426. In 1872, German-born neighbor, John Franke, visited them. He was talking to Adam and Celinda in the “library” of their house when he brought up the subject of wanting Adam to help him to write a will. Adam agreed to do so, and, when he had finished writing the first part with a form book, he asked John who would receive the property. John answered that he trusted the Shipleys the most, and all was to go to them. Reluctantly Adam wrote up the will, and Celinda and several others invited signed as witnesses. Upon the death of John Franke on Dec. 10, 1889, the will was probated. Then in 1892, Franke’s brother, Adolph Franke from Prussia, appeared and challenged the will, claiming Franke was not mentally sound when the will was made. The case was tried in the “County Court of the State of Oregon for the County of C lackamas,” and the will was found valid. It was appealed in the Oregon Supreme Court, which also allowed it to stand. This record has been most useful in dealing with dates and other aspects of the Shipley family’s life. Both Celinda and Adam said they moved to the farm in 1862. For the Supreme Court decision see Oregon Reports, XXII (San Francisco, 1926), pp. 104–05.

19 Ibid.

20 J.R. Cardwell, “First Fruits of the Land: A Brief History of Early Horticulture in Oregon,” Oregon Hist. Qtly., VII (March, 1906), pp. 2 8–51, especially p. 3 1.

21 Mary Goodall, Oregon’s Iron Dream, A Story of Old Oswego (Portland, 1958 ), pp. 123-24.

22 Ibid., see also L. and W. Brown, Genealogical Index to the Clackamas County, Oregon, Probate Records from 1845 to 1910 (Oregon City, 1974 ), p. 107.

23 Ibid.

1 Joseph and Mary Leonard settled in Linn Co., Oregon. He was a “shoe-maker, plasterer, farmer.” Leah Collins Menefee, Comp., Immigration Rosters of the Elliott Cut-Off: 1853 & 1854(Albany, Or., 1984), p. 36

2 The Rev. Lerner B. Stateler and his wife, Melinda, were teachers at the Shawnee Methodist Mission. Louise Barry, The Beginning of the West (Topeka, Kansas, 1972 ), P-334-

3 Westport Landing, Mo., had been established as a fur trading post at the confluence of the Kansas and Missouri rivers in 1821. It was incorporated as the town of Kansas in 1850, later to be Kansas City.

4 With in a few miles west and northwest of Westport were three missions to the Shawnee Indians. They represented three denominations: Methodist, Baptist, and Society of Friends (Quakers).

5 Solomon Johnnycake was an influential Delaware Indian leader, Barry, op. (it., p. 225.

6 The Catholic Mission of the Pottawatamies was founded in 1848 at the site of present St. Marys, KS. On the grounds were two half-finished log houses. Barry, op. ril., pp. 773–74.

7 This was probably J.M. Ferguson. Barry, p. 1005. Op. ril.

8 Mary, wife of Charles Wesley Bryant. They were from Wyoming Co., N.Y. They settled near present-day Lake O swego and had two children, Alta and Lee. The Bryants lived to celebrate their 60th wedding anniversary. He is reputed to have brought the first red clover seed to Oregon on his 1853 journey. Genealogical Material in Oregon Donation Land Claims, II (Portland, 1959 ), claim # 3250, p. 39 (Hereafter designated at Genealogical Material). Leslie Scott, History of the Oregon Country, III (Cambridge, Mass., 1924 ), p. 342. Wedding anniversary noted in undated clipping in scrap book, Oregon Hist. Soc.

9 In a “List of Immigrants to Oregon,” printed in the Portland Oregonian on Oct. 29, 1853, B. and J. A. Minor are mentioned. The list had been sent to the newspaper by Thomas K. Williams at the” Utilla [Umatilla] Agency,” just east of present Pendleton.

10 This was Charles Long, who is usually called simply “Charles” by Celinda. His name is in no Oregon records that we have seen. Possibly he went on north or south as was often the case with single men.

11 This would have been Cape. Henry W. Wharton, 6th Infantry. He was in command at F t. Kearny from 1851–57, serving “with distinction.” Merrill J. Matte s, The Great Platte River Read, Neb. State Hist. Soc. Pubs., XXV (Lincoln, 1969 ), pp. 107-08, 224.

12 This was Lt. Hugh B. Fleming. LeRoy R. Hafen, Fort Laramie and the Pageant of the West, 1834-1890 (Glendale, Ca., 1938) pp. 210, 233–34.

13 Phoebe Judson, this baby’s mother, told the story of the event in her own reminiscent book, A Pioneer’s Search for an IdeaI Home (Bellingham, Wash., 1925 ) pp. 39-42. Her words are quoted in full in an epilogue following this diary.

14 Ibid., pp. 6-7. Phoebe Judson tells how her husband, Holden A. Judson, hireda “young Scandinavian” to help drive the team, but neither she nor Celinda Hines ever give anything but his last name, “Nelson.”

15 Ammonium carbonate, an ingredient of smelling salts, was made by chemically breaking down stag antlers and subsequent distillation. Hence the term “hartshorn.”

l6NeilI McArthur managed Fort Hall for the Hudson’s Bay Co. from 1851 to 1854. The fort was abandoned in 1856. Louis S. Grant, “Port Hall Under the Hudson’s Bay Company, 1837–1856,” Ore. Hist. Qtly. XLI, No. 1 (Mar. 1940 ), 34–39.

17 Although she definitely spells it “Beak” here, on Aug. 10 it appears as “Beal.” This was Taven or Beale, who arrived with his wife, Judith M. (Hutchins) in Oregon on NOV. 1, 1853. Their Donation Land Claim was # 1462, in Linn Co. Genealogical Material, III (Portland, 1962 ), p. 104. See also Leah C. Menefee, Immigration Rosters of the Elliott Cut-Off:1853 & 1854 (Albany, Or., 1984 ), p. 3.

18 Thomas Holcomb and his wife, Susan, arrived in Oregon in September and settled on claim # 4181 in Polk Co. on April 15, 1854. They were from North Carolina. Genealogical Material, II ( 1959), p. 84.

19 This was the child of Charles and Mary Bryant. See fn. 8.

20 The best portrayal of the life of this colorful Hudson’s Bay Co. trader is in Merle Wells ’ The Mountain Men and the Fur Trade (Glendale, Ca., 1972 ), Vol. IX, pp. 165–86. Richard Grant had just retired from a life of service to the “Great Company.” He had been in charge of Ft. Hall for ten years and was planning to set up as an independent trader at Ft. Loring, a former army post not far from Ft. Hall.

2l Henry and Rosetta P. Rowley from Ohio arrived in Oregon in October and settled on claim # 1557 in Clackamas Co. on Jan. io, 1855. Genealogical Material, I ( 1957 ), p. 63.

22 Another version of this tragedy in the Hines family is in Judson, A Pioneer’s Search for an Ideal Home, op. cit., pp. 58–63. This is quoted in full in our epilogue to the Hines diary.

23 William H. Gray was an old-timer in Pacific Northwest history. He had already made two overland journeys and returned east. The 1853 journey with the large flock of sheep here mentiond is best approached through Rebecca Ketchum’s journal: “From Ithaca to Clatsop Plains,” Oregon Hist. Qtly., LXII, No. 3 (Sept. 1961), pp. 237–87; also LXII, No. 4 (Dec. 1961), pp. 337–402. She was an articulate member of the Gray company. The editors of her journal were L. M. Kaiser and Priscilla Knuth. Gray planned to take the sheep to Astoria at the mouth of the Columbia, but the vessel in which he was transporting them capsized, and he lost the entire flock in the Columbia River.

24 The Ritchie clan was special. In charge of the wagons was Matthew D. Ritchie, age 25. He and his wife, Mary, had been living in Iowa and were now headed west with children: Adam, age 3, and Sarah, a baby. But the key family figure was Elizabeth Ritchie, Matthew’s mother. According to the land records, her husband had died in February, 1848, in Iowa. “He had several wagons and teams and plans forgoing to Oregon and she came as soon after that as she could.” Another son, James, 25-year-old, accompanied her. Genealogical Material, In (1957), claims #508, # 1413. and II (1959), #2626. The mother and James settled in Linn Co; Matthew and family in Lane Co.

25 The Portland Oregonian listed in its Oct. 20, 1853, issue, Thomas K. Williams as agent at the “Utilla [Umatilla] agency.” This was a former Methodist mission a few miles east of present Pendleton at the western border of today’s Umatilla Indian Reservation. See also Edward Hill, The Office of Indian Affairs, 1824–1880, Historical Sketches (New York, N. Y., 1974), pp. 125 & 128.

26 This was a fourth Hines brother, another Methodist minister, who, with his wife, Elizabeth, had come to Oregon by ship in 1853. On June 20 they had sailed on the steamer, Illinois, from New York to the Isthmus of Panama. On the Pacific shore they boarded the Golden Gate which took them to San Francisco. From there they sailed on the Columbia to “the prospective metropolis” of Portland, where they arrived in late Ju ly. He went on up the Columbia to The Dalles and on by horseback to the Deschutes River, where he met his brothers and their families. Later the Joseph Hines family moved to San Jose, California, where they lived out their lives. Joseph W. Hines, Touching Incidents in the Life and Labors of a Pioneer on the Pacific Coast Since 1853 (San Jose, 1911 ), passim.

27 This was the famous trapper, Robert Newell. He was called “Doc” not because he was a real doctor, but because he had a knack for helping those with health problems in the wilderness, especially in the use of natural herbs. LeRoy R. Hafen, “Robert Newell,” The Mountain Men and the Fur Trade, VIII (Glendale, Ca., 19 7 1), pp. 251–76.

28 This was a small propeller type steamer brought up the lower Columbia on the deck of a sailing vessel. She was hauled over the portage at the Cascades and worked the upper river between there and The Dalles. Celinda’s description is quite apt. T. C. Elliott, “The Dalles-Celilo Portage, Its History and Influence,” Oregon Hist. Qtly., XVI, no. 2 (June, 1914), p. 163.

29 This was a 108-foot side wheeler built in Oregon City. It sailed the Columbia below the Cascades. Randall W. Mills, Stern-Wheelers up the Columbia (Palo Alto, Ca., 1947), p. 189.

30 This steam scow operated in 1853 between the Cascades and the mouth of the Sandy River. There was a good wagon road between the Sandy and Oregon City by then. Earl K. Stewart, “Transporting Livestock by Boat,” Oregon Hist. Qtly., L, no. 4 (Dec. 1949), p. 252.

31 John Crosby was listed in the 1850 census as a “Dr. of Medicine” born in Ireland. His land claim was in Clackamas Co. He signed it with an “X”. He was evidently a highly educated “physician.” Genealogical Material, I (1957), claim #729. He had a wife, Rachel, and two children.

32 The Rev. Calvin S. Kingsley was the first principal of the Portland Academy started by the Methodists in 1851. Surrounded by high trees, the school was quite a way out of the little village. A cow path led downtown. Mrs. C. M. Cartwright, “Early Days in Oregon,” Oregon Hist. Qtly., IV, no. 1 (March, 1903), pp. 66–67.

33 Thomas Jefferson and Nancy Dryer. He was founding editor of the Portland Oregonian newspaper. He served several terms in the State Legislature and was a member of the Oregon State Constitutional Convention in 1857. Howard M. Corning, Dictionary of Oregon History (Portland, 1956), p. 77.

34 Albert Alonzo and Marianda White Durham were founders of Oswego, Oregon (now Lake Oswego). It was named for a county in their native state, New York. He was a pioneer lumberman, ran a saw mill. They had traveled to Oregon in 1847. Leslie Scott, History of the Oregon Country, II, (Cambridge, Mass., 1924), p. 271.