Council Bluffs to California, 1854 Mary Burrell

INTRODUCTION

On May 31, 1854, Mary Burrell of Plainfield, Illinois, wrote in her diary, “My Birth day, aged 19.” She continued her entry for that day by writing about the scenery along the Platte River, “See some spots in the hill side occasionally which are as red as brick, sometimes rocky & red Beautiful scenery, splendiferous” This was a teenage writer for whom one day was dull and the next extra splendid — “splendiferous.” Her last entry, made on September 1st in the Green Valley of Sonoma County in California, read that they had ended a journey “which for care, fatigue, tediousness, perplexities and dangers of various kinds can not be excelled.”

Her sense of humor appears now and then. Here is part of her entry for June 2: “Some Indians came in our camp & one asked me if I was going to have a pappose. Ha! ha! ha! Much lightning & heavy thunder & large hail! tremendous time getting supper. Wet beds. ’Tis sublime, sublime.”

After they had been traveling along the Humboldt River1 through the deserts of present-day Nevada, she wrote, on August 5th, “I am Humbolted pretty badly these 2 or 3 days past.”

Her most unforgetable line was penned on August 15, “Would feel pretty well myself if I had not eaten so many beans. They make me feel so w----y.” ’Nuf said.

Lucy Foster Sexton, who was but a toddler during the journey, wrote a description of her friend, Mary Burrell, many years later:

Mary Burrell, the younger, was a lively, rosy-cheeked, good-looking girl who found a great deal to enjoy during the trip. She was quite accomplished as a musician. Like many others she kept a diary which was preserved by members of her family. Her engagement to Wesley Tonner was announced before they started westward. The neighbors wagged their heads wisely, and declared no engagement would stand the strain of so much hard work and worry underdisillusioningcircumstances. Butthey were mistaken; the young people were more deeply in love at the end of the journey than they were at the beginning, and the wedding followed their arrival in California. Unfortunately Mary Burrell Tonner died while still a young woman in her thirties.2

Mary was still alive on June 22, 1860, however, when the census-taker came by their home and recorded the following:

Wesley Tonner 30 m. b. Pa.

School Teacher b. Real Estate 1500 Personal 500

Mary Tonner 25 f. b. N.Y.

Carrie Tonner 4 f. b. Cal.

Mary Tonner 1 f. b. Cal.

Jennie Tonner 1/12 f. b. Cal.

Mary Burrell 62 b. Eng.

(The last-named person was Mary Tonner’s mother.)

The original manuscript of Mary Burrell’s diary is located in the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscripts Library, of the Yale University Library. They kindly supplied us with a microfilm of the diary and have given us permission to publish it here.

Accompanying the diary in the Yale collection is a letter written on September 10, 1854, ten days after Mary’s last diary entry. This letter written by Wesley Tonner tells the story of the same journey from a different perspective. It adds something special to the record of the same historical happenings. It is published by the permission of the Yale University Library.

PERSONNEL OF THE BURRELL GROUP OF THE PLAINFIELD WAGON TRAIN

Mrs. Mary Burrell, widow of George Burrell, an Englishman, who was listed in the 1850 Federal Census as 55 years old, a farmer, in Will County, Illinois, near the town of Plainfield. He had died sometime between 1850 and 1854, leaving her a widow. Mrs. Burrell was 54 years old at the time of the overland journey. In 1860, according to the census of that year, she was age 62 and living with her daughter, Mary Tonner and family in San Jose, Santa Clara County, California.

Edward Burrell was the brother of the younger Mary. His wife was Louisa (Hannibal) Burrell. The census of 1850 indicates that Louisa was not yet married, so the wedding must have taken place sometime between 1850 and 1854. She was 20 years old, born in England.

Wesley Tonner was Mary Burrell’s “affianced.” He was listed as a schoolteacher in the 1860 census of Santa Clara County, San Jose township, age 30 years. His future wife often referred to him while on the overland journey as “Wes.”

Isaac G. Foster was one of the leaders of the exodus from Plainfield, Illinois, to the Pacific in 1854. He had been over the trail in 1852. See the introduction to the diary of Marriett Foster Cummings, Volume IV of this set, pp. 117–119.

Grace Foster, wife of Isaac Foster, was born in Connecticut.

Eugene P. Foster was the 6-year-old son of Isaac and Grace Foster.

Lucy Foster was in her own words “barely able to toddle about” at the time of the journey. It was 71 years later that she wrote The Foster Family, California Pioneers (Santa Barbara, 1925), which has been an indispensible resource in learning about the Burrell and Tonner families.

Fred Foster was the baby born on the journey to Grace Foster.

William and Mary Hannibal were the parents of Louisa Burrell, the wife of Edward Burrell. According to the 1850 census of Plainfield, Illinois, William was a miller, age 40 in that year. Mary Hannibal was 37 at that time. They were both born in England.

Putnam (“Put”) Robson, was a nephew of Mrs. Mary Burrell. According to Lucy Sexton in The Foster Family book, p. 177, he “afterwards figured prominently in the social, political and business life of San Francisco.”

Isaac Harter was listed in the 1850 Plainfield census as a hired hand in the house of one I. C. Andrew, 17 years old, born in Ohio. Lucy Sexton wrote that he also became an active citizen of San Francisco (Ibid).

Silas and Oscar Wightman were brothers. They were the children of Mr. and Mrs. Josiah Wightman of Plainfield, Illinois.

“Old Holmes” and Mrs. Holmes are so-far unidentified.

“The boys,” none of whose surnames have been identified, were Elijah, Alexander, Frank and Stucky. (Foster Family, p. 180 and “Roster.”)

THE DIARY

April 27th One month since we left Plainfield [Illinois]. Arrived here at Council Bluffs the 16th, have been here since that time & are now making ready to cross the Missouri river tomorrow have spent the day in packing &c Wrote to Betsy, two sheets & a half

28th Had a fine ride on horse back on the new side saddle up on the bluffs, shall not get ready to cross the river today. Fine weather, beautiful country. Had music from the ship last evening. All in good spirits Elijah slept

29th Sunday, wrote to Margaret, had a fracus with the Indians. The emigrants killed 2. Wes1 got stabbed in the leg a little but not very seriously, got well frightened and left our old camp at dark & moved up to town. All slept in the tent, 8 of us.

30 Fine weather anticipate some difficulty with the Indians on account of the disturbance which occurred yesterday. No Indians to be seen today. Stewed apples, fried cakes, baked cakes & bread. After dinner started for St. Mary’s; arrived there & encamped near the Missouri river 12 miles from Council Bluffs. Boys kept guard.

[May] 1st removed from the Bluffs to St. Marys

May 2 Crossed the river on the ferry which cost $9.10. Good-bye to the states Saw old Sarpee2 & several Indians. About a mile from the ferry is the Belvieu mission & trading post. 7 log houses, a beautiful situation & delightful scenery, rolling prairie, with scattering groves, good roads fine weather, & good spirits if we are in Nebraska. Camped at noon near a little creek, got dinner, noon where there had been an Indian village Hitched up & within a few miles the Elk horn near a creek called the little Papea [Papillon] the Indians tried to make us pay toll at a little bridge, but we showed pistols & they let us pass. Mother gave the old squaw a silk tab off of a stock; she seemed very much pleased.

3 Passed many teams; fine farming country. As we neared the Elk Horn on a large plain & was a beautiful sight. Could see the Platte river 12 miles distant seemingly on the top of a plain it glistened & looked delightful to the beholder, plenty of timber & side hills, ravines &c. camped the east side of the Elk Horn ready to cross in the morning. Fine stream & bordered with timber

4. Crossed the Ferry about noon after Put [Putnam] had found the old cow about 12 miles back. Washed, baked ginger snaps. Shook hands with several Pawnee Indians, & Bid them Good Bye. Very dusty & sandy. Camped near the Platte in sight of 35 waggons & several hundred cattle.3 Saw an Indian village at the left & 20 or 30 Indians

5 Fine morning, little frost last night, sweet sleep. Left the Platte in the morning travelled about 17 miles

6 Fine day; passed many hundred cattle plenty of dust & sand, made some nut cakes in the morning & baked. Encamped near the River Platte or Elk Horn, I know not which. Washed after dark some things & took a refreshing wash before going to bed. Always sleep sound no matter how much noise is going on among the boys. No one sick

May 7. Very dusty, tremendous wind got blown over while eating my dinner. Victuals full of sand. Came up with Isaac Foster & wish to join his company on account of getting clear of watching quite so often. Although it is Sunday still we are traveling. We see but little regard paid to the Sabbath in this part of the world. One would not know when the Sabbath came from appearances and conduct of our neighboring emigrants. Dont have any trouble with the Indians. Saw Mrs Holmes Put & I stood guard till 1 o’clock. Saw a wolf but did not shoot him for fear of awaking the company thinking it was Indians. Windy.

May 8 Still very windy & cool. Saw 2 Antelopes across the creek but was not in shooting distance; cream colored looked like Deer About noon we thought our time had come. We came to a small creek which was bridged, but very narrow & sideling. Ed crossed safe & drove up on the hill. Alexander came next with 4 horses & covered waggon, but did not come down on the bridge square & the horses got frightened. The wagon fell over into the drink but lodged on a fallen tree, which drew the horses all in also Ed had come back for a drink & was there to witness the catasrophe. Frank Wes & Ed were at work immediately. Alexander had been through out beyond all the horses & with considerable difficulty swam ashore. Water was 8 or 10 feet deep, besides the mud at the bottom. Ed seized the ax & cut the tongue off which assisted the horses some. They came to the surface. Kept their heads out, but got entangled in the harness. That was soon cut loose. Plunging & splashing was kept up. Ropes were procured & fastened round their heads. Wes & Ed were in the water up to their waists & In great danger of being drawn in by the kicking of the horses. One poor horse was so much encumbered with the harness & so far gone that before assistance could be rendered he had breathed his last. Blood rushed out of his mouth; he looked for help but it was impossible to relieve him, & assist 3 others which were in the mud & water as much as he was. The others were saved after a few moments, but they were very helpless & bruised & cut. Mother & Mrs Hannibal were running & shouting for the cow drivers to come back, but they did not see or hear for some time & when they were made to understand that we were in trouble, they thought it that Indians had attacked us. It was a very lucky move that mother got out of the wagon before they went down the hill or she would have been thrown in the water also & drowned before assistence could have been rendered. We felt like returning thanks to God for her narrow escape & that it was no more than it was, or might have been. The wagon was soon unloaded, & got out. No damage done, except the tongue & one bow broken, & dashboard split. One carpet was wet which had Isaac’s [Harter] clothing in. All this time Louisa was over the hill in the first wagon asleep, & tired of worrying for Ed to come back with a cup of water untill the fracus was nearly over with. The boys which were driving the cows got there after the horses were all out. Got straightened round & encamped over the hill; mended up the harness & tongue, washed off the horses, & tended to greasing their bruises. Very windy. Isaac Foster passed us but crossed the same creek at a ford without any difficulty We washed & made 2 fruit cakes; had mush & milk for supper, good grass — We passed some old ruins which had been burnt down Nothing remained but chips & burnt logs; there had been a fence of logs driven down close together all round the houses built of logs, also where there had been some corn fields & fences. Nothing remained which would indicate that there had been any improvements, though, at this day, but Ed saw them there when he passed before. We are nearing the place where Mathus dwelt once & buried Marcellus.4 Still see no Indians.

9 Windy & cool, not quite ready to start yet, but will get away about noon, I think. Traveled 17 miles; awful windy. I expect we passed near the place where Mathus lived & where Marcellus was buried, but not having any loose horse, we could not search it out. Saw where the village had been & sod fences. Crossed some very fine prairie & deep ravines or hollows. Camped near the Loup Fork Saw a grave on the top of a mound down on the river bottom. Mr. Roe of Wisconsin buried in 1849 the day before Ed got there. Was shot by the Indians Passed a piece of country which looked very much like a burying ground; as many as 2 or 3 hundred graves visible. It must have been a Battle Field, I think some remains of a village & in the river bottom were some sod fences thrown up. (Had a Prairie hen for supper).

10. Fine day; crossed the Loup Fork about noon. Spent the forenoon in shoeing cows Very bad river to cross, thought we should be drowned in crossing. The sand kept changing & sometimes we would go down 2 or 3 feet & then up again. 6 horses on a wagon & a tight match at that. Could not find grass or water. Camped near a well, good water but little of it. In company with Foster.

11 Sandy road, no water until we camped at noon near a small creek called Prairie creek near a grave. Had to cross the creek again. Very bad hole, got stuck. Was pulled out with oxen. Deep mud, & camped about 2 miles beyond it

12 Rained & very cold. Camped about 2 o’clock on Wood River or Prairie Creek. I do not know which, & washed, baked & wrote to Betsy. Still raining

13 Got to Wood River.5 Crossed the toll bridge price .50 for wagon & .01 cts for cows. Grocery here& things to sell to emigrants, trade stock &c. Dr Clarke hospital here Very cold in the morning. Lost ½ a day in trading, &c. Sold the old corn wagon for $5.00 & the lame cow for $7.50. Saw many cattle & horses. As many as 100 wagons passed here. Put the letters in the office but the office is nothing but a tent.

14 Fine day. Heavy dew last night. We all eat hearty & feel well & in good spirits. Going to Cal is not as hard after all the talk. See Fosters company every day & Zumwalts company — Sam Gilson also — Sunday again but it is less like Sunday than ever. I rode horse back all the afternoon & drove cows. Camped late & had heavy thunder & shock lightning, right smart sprinkle of rain. I reckon, near the river.

15. Louisa wont elevate in time for breakfast. The boys saw some antelopes & wolves, & one white wolf. Shot at one but did not hit it. Camped on Buffalo Creek. Had a heavy thunder shower, sharp lightning. Towards 2 o’clock it commenced blowing & raised the tent.

16. Still raining & very cold. Started about noon. Hailed a little & blew tremendously at times. Camped near a creek Good feed & slough water

17. Clear weather, but cold. Camped near the Platte. Did not watch the stock. Childs grave 11 months Rode horse back all the after noon. Feel stiff & lame

18. passed the Pawnee Swamps Good feed at noon. Sand hills. Did not watch.

19. Awful muddy roads. Got sloughed twice we had to wade through in the fore noon. No wood or water scarcely; used slough water & Buffalo chips & willow sprouts to cook dinner. Rode horse back in the afternoon on old David without a bridle. Jumped a hole. Killed a skunk which madé Isaac [Harter] sick. Encamped at the foot of the bluffs. Good feed & water, no wood; burn dry grass & chips.

20. Warm. Saw 4 antelopes, Lizards, blue snake, beautiful flowers, purple peas like sweet peas, pleasant smell, & a kind of Dock or sorrell with a blossom in the shape of a pie plant seed but great deal larger & reddish seed within it like the Pie Plant. Ascended the bluff which is very sandy.

21 Started, & soon found a sulphur spring; smelt of sulphur some. Looked up the stream a little & saw 7 others boiling up out of a bed of white sand. Very sick, water cool, but smelt of sulphur took a chase after 2 antelopes but it amounted to nothing Sunday today — Camped for the rest of the day at noon & laid over to rest on Rattle Snake Creek. Killed one & a blow snake, besides 3 others of a different kind. Had a thunder shower. The Platte is ¼ of a mile south west of us & is lined with high bluffs on the other side which are scattered with cedar or pine

22nd Clear & pleasant in the morning. Killed a Prairie Dog as large as a good sized Gopher Very warm in the afternoon. Crossed the bluffs which were very sandy. We still follow along the foot of the bluffs near the Platte

23. Saw plenty of Prairie Dogs & snakes; very warm. Trading Post the south side of the Platte. First the gnats or musketoes troubled the boys much, poisened stings which raised up in lumps whereever they were bit — Very painful in deed. They have see Prickley Pears, many flowers [unreadable] as of old but more pink shade. Woman encamped near us with 7 or 8 children going to Cal

24. Very warm. Gnats as thick as ever. Crossed more sand hills — beautiful scenery, flowers Came in sight of Chimney rock, but I missed seeing it not knowing which was it until it was too late. We are now at ancient Bluff ruins. Went up on one hill which looks to be about ¼ a of a mile from our camp, but before I got to it it was a mile & a half, I should guess. On the top is a plat of grass & moss of different kinds, beautiful. Prickly pears & at the out edge a few feet it is paved with beautiful stones & flat rock nearly as smooth as a floor. An Indian tent is near us, trading The boys have bought some moccasins.

25 Did not travel in the forenoon but spent the time in rambling among the ruins, rocks, prickly pears, &c. Isaac, Wesley, Frank, Ed & wife & myself all on horse back; rode around the mountains nearly all the forenoon. Some timber, red cedar growing in the rocks. The trees are very much twisted. Swallows in abundance living in the rocks; owls & hawks. (& an hour come gone so I guess) Traveled nearly 21 miles.

26. See Chimney rock at a distance & bluff. Had the sick head ache in the afternoon very bad

27. Saw Scotts Bluff — west of Chimney Rock. Tried to draw it off on paper. See teams & cattle for 4 or 5 miles in length. This world is all a cattle show, sure enough. Passed many. Rode horse back & got caught in a shower. Had to lope to the wagons in short order. Baked till 12 o’clock at night

28. Raining Sunday. See Laramie Peak. The clouds could be seen mid-way on the Peak. Encamped in a beautiful little grove of cottonwood — most delightful.

29 Wrote to Betsy. Got to Ft Laramie. Two-story house made of Adobe. Wigwams in abundance. 5 Indian squaws came & begged for meat & bread, two men also, and in the afternoon 5 men came I played on the melodeon for them. They were pleased & wanted Hannibal to dance. Got some cows shoed. Made fruit cakes, washed &c

30. Put’s birth day Got into the Black Hills, which look beautiful to the traveler Plenty of cedar & pine trees. Stony way. Got a drink out of a spring which came gushing out from under the hill. Camped on the Platte late after traveling 27 miles over mountains more delightful than any we have seen before.

31. My Birth day, aged 19. See some spots in the hill side occasionally which are as red as brick, sometimes rocky & red Beautiful scenery, splendiferous Commenced writing a kind of journal for Betsy. Camped near nice springs near an I ndian trading establishment for the night & again lay down our wearied limbs to rest.

June 1 Nothing of any importance took place that I remembered of. Very windy & dusty. Bought some fresh antelope of a trader. At noon had a heavy hail storm — while eating in the open air, then rain. In 2 hours the ground was as dry as ever.

2nd Have not got out of sight of Laramie Peak yet. Could see at sun rise plenty of snow on the top of it. Spent the forenoon in shoeing cows near a trading establishment Some Indians came in our camp & one asked me if I was going to have a pappoose. Ha! ha! ha! Much lightning & heavy thunder & large hail! tremendous time getting supper. Wet beds. ’Tis sublime, sublime.

3rd Passed some strange looking hills like pyramids. Bad road among them, fine weather after the shower. Think we have got through the Black Hills. Had some mush & milk for supper & a fuss also about milk & vomiting up supper over the left

4 Sunday. What a sight we have seen today; we met 402 Indians, or more. I am certain of this many fori counted them besides ponies & dogs, & plenty of children about 2 to a man & 3 ponies to a person & 5 dogs half wolf. They had their tent poles fastened on to the ponies on each side, & the provisions &c packed on his back, & on those poles. Dogs were loaded also. We met them on the hills Very bad roads & we could see them for 3 miles. Were about 2 & ½ hours in passing them. They were Souix [Sioux], had weapons but were very friendly. Were either moving back into the Buffalo country or going to war with the Pawnees — we could not find out which. Their ponies were decorated with leather coverings & beads worked on them, with many strings cut of leather attached to the edge. Feathers on the horses heads, sometimes a bell on the neck, & a red string or something fastened to the tail, near the cropper. This sight was astonishing, equal to 50 caravans or circuses.

5. Still see nearly the same thing, nothing strange. Saw a dead horse which had got frightened & his rope & had failed & 6 broken his neck. I now by the request of the boys & mother take the charge of cooking into my own hands, which is my part. They are fond of clean victuals.

6. Got to Uta Ferry about 2 o’clock Indians visited us again. Bought a raw-hide for shoes for the cows Drove cows in the afternoon, encamped late.

7 Tried to get an early start to reach the watering place before day as we get no water in less than 26 miles from the Platte. Had a hail storm & rain at noon. Passed Rock Avenue & alkali swamps, Mineral lake which looks black if disturbed. Encamped within a mile of water which is impregnated with sulphur. Very weary, late, no wood, plenty of sage brush & grease wood which is but a shrub.

8 Delightful day. passed some graves & climbed Prospect Hill; got tired before I reached the top & hung on to Isaac’s coat tail Camped at noon near a wide stream clear as crystal. Put washed my head. Reached the Sweet Water at night near Independance Rock. Oh, yes, saw a lake of Alkali all crusted over like a frozen pond with Saleratus some which we gathered.

9 Rode David At the rock of granite (?) with Wes & Put all around it were names without number but none which I could recognise as being acquainted. About noon we came up to the Devil’s Gate & it is a Devilish Gate in earnest & Rode Nell down to it & saw the river come rushing through, the rock on each side is 400 feet high & you could throw a stone across at the top. Camped near a blacksmith shop quite an establishment hewed logs & shingled with mud Hailed & rained all the afternoon

10 a very unpleasant occurence, girls rode with wet under clothes all the forenoon, camped at noon near a mountain of rocks which stands out very distinctly, we see nothing but rocky mountains on either side and snow on the tops of some

11 Very sandy road up hill & down saw some Snake Indians trading. Traveled near 30 miles pushed on over sandy roads & horses gave out & it was dark before we reached water, all tired & hungry. [In margin: The snow capped mountains. Fremont Peak] Been raining hard. The ground all wet. Sublime.

12. Recruited all the forenoon. Lightened our loads considerably, threw away the side saddle & men’s saddle & blankets, some other clothing & traps, dinner box &c. walked mainly all the afternoon. Encamped on the Sweet Water a most splendid & delightful camp

13. What awful rocky hills we have to pass over, so many flowers that fill the atmosphere with a very pleasant odor, camped at noon near a icy cold spring the boys had very unpleasant feelings concerning Ed who had been complaining about the walking

14. We are on the Rocky Mountains& expect to go through the South Pass today camped at noon off of the road a piece near the Sweet water, where there was some traders encamped or living. Rained some. Is very cold. Air is very rare & rather difficult to breathe, cannot hardly discern that we are in the south pass or near it. We have been ascending gradually for some few days past & now will soon see the waters of the Pacific running in the opposite direction. Pass through about 2 oclock saw it at some distance a flag erected at the summit. Found a blacksmiths shop got a cow shod. Encamped near Pacific Springs ground surrounding very miry. Bad watching, very cold

15 Rainy all day, nearly, extremely cold. Tremendous time getting dinner. No stream near but rain, which came down plentifully. Traveled about 19 miles & camped without water or wood. Got some water out of the road. Cold cold cold

16 White frost. Sun shines, still see snow covered mountains. Baked at night till 11 o’clock & had some conversation with will, he being reminiscent.

17 Saw a new grave. P. Jewet or Levitt from London Mo. Traveled 17 miles without water Encamped on the big Sandy.

18 Ferried Green river at $5.00 pr wagon & 50 cts a head for horses. Swam the stock; swift current; quite an establishment here; court room, groceries, pies & cakes. Beer, dwelling houses, black smiths shop &c. Last year 11 men were drowned in trying to drive stock across on horseback; 7 at one time. Camped a mile or two down the river, & took dinner, then followed down 4 or 5 miles farther & stoped for the night First rate feed

19 15 miles without water. See many Californians packing home on mules & ponies

20 Many sand or clay bluffs, one in the shape of a church bell. Crossed Ham’s Fork, which is a very pretty stream.

21 Traveled about 18 miles without wood or water; very warm. Encamped on Black Fork; good camp; got dinner & spent the rest of the day in washing & baking pies & bread

22. Passed Fort Bridger. Stony road; camped at noon on a small stream. The ground surrounding is totally covered with Grass-hoppers. Could not set for them hopping into the dishes. Stayed all night near near a soda spring on one side & a hill on the other covered with cedar Had a concert, & company came in

23. Trav’led over hills & down gulches. Saw an antelope. Reached Bear River at night. Bought at a station a dollar’s worth of potatoes (about a peck)

24. This mountain air is very difficult to breathe; can not get enough scarcely into the lungs. Very warm & sultry. A woman near by camped started lying in a bed sick with mountain fever. Crossed the bridge free of charge the keeper knowing that we would ford it if we could not pass free & make a road for many others to see & follow. Rained again good

25. Crossed a mountain 2 miles up & 2 down. Many Utah Indians visited our camp at noon. Real imposers on emigrants, beggers Swapped an old white shirt fora pocket looking glass. We now follow along down Echo Creek Small caves in the Rocky mountains on either side of our road. Stucky is taken sick with the mountain fever We nearly all feel a little under the weather Mountain springs Sunday

26. Travelling on. Our sick is better Can see 12 different kinds of flowers within ½ a mile Some trading stations. Mother is taken sick. Oh Dear me! what if we all get sick! Reached Weber river Ferry.

27. She is no better; got some medicine of a company, a box of Lobelia; gave her 3 doses Did not start on till noon when she was some better after being washed with salaratus water, which eases the pain in the back. Many are having the mountain fever here in the Bear river mountains She took 5 pills at night.

28 Rolling on again. Awful roads in this canyon. Mother is better. On the recovery. Many new flowers & very fragrant The mule teams are ahead of us carrying merchandise to S. L. City & they bother us very much traveling so slow 6 mules on a wagon & stubborn at that We were at last obliged to stop for the night being blocked in by the mules. No feed at all. Tied the horses to trees & slept on the side hill

29 Descended the long hill which we have had such a time in ascending. Very dangerous. Came within 14 miles of G. S. L. City & encamped for the day. Washed & baked & wrote to Betsy part of a letter.

30 Entered the Great City; beautiful houses of Adobes; gardens well watered by a mountain stream made to flow along each side of every street, making water very convenient for irrigation, house water. The city is about 4 miles square and has about 25000 inhabitants. The buildings are neat but economically built

[This written by Wesley Tonner]
The Temple is quite a work. They are about building the foundation for a new Temple. I think it will encompass half an acre. They are also about constructing a wall around the city of clay — 12 ft high and 6 ft through at the base. We had a brief interview with Gov Young and Suite. (See letter enclosed.)

[Mary Burrell continues:]
The valley is improved north & south of the city. He is a pleasant man

July 1st Spent the first part of the day running through town. Was treated by Wesley to soda water & ice cream & cakes, quite a rarity here in this wilderness. Towards evening started out, passed a spring so hot it would boil an egg. Encamped on the mountain edge. Ed’s wagon ran down into the gulch

2 Sunday. Travelled through thick settlements Grain looked well. Wheat in bloom. Corn looked well. Grass hard to find, it being fenced up. Happened to good camp about 2 o’clock & stopped to recruit, when Frank & Mrs Hannibal had an explosion the result of which was dissolution (See note at back of book written by Wesley Tonner)

3 Remained in the same place throughout the day [The following in parentheses crossed out: (but it did not seem at all like the 4th & 5th of July to us)]. Wes had his shirt torn off by the boys. Very warm. Hannibals bought a yoke of oxen for $140, and Ed bought 2 yokes for $125 per yoke.

[The following is written inside the back cover:]
July 3rd encamped 20 miles from the city. Mary sitting in the wagon Seeing her mother doing the same Ike [Isaac?] Standing at the wagon foolin. Stucky laying in the tent singing Put & Frank gone for good water. Ed gone to buy oxen. Louisa doing I dont know what. Myself sitting on the edge of the wagon box until it hurts me and what am I doing? Writing this nonsense —

4 Rolled on with the Bulls hearing the shouts of the drivers & the continued crack of the Buck skin when applied to the sides of said Bulls which had but little effect in spite of the physical energy which was displayed by said drivers Traveled through brush & over hills but small in comparison to those which we had passed before. Wes lost the pistol in chasing after Franks mare, & after dinner Isaac & he went back to hunt it. Returned about 4 o’clock with the lost pistol, unexpectedly. I washed meantime. Stayed all night there. In the eve two Indians came. Put sold them his old coat for 50 cts. He put it on & called himself an Emigrant Shot off his pistol much to our surprise, but knowing it had not taken effect we had considerable fun with him. [In margin: Bought a yoke of oxen.] Very windy in the night.

5 Passed over Weber River toll bridge and Ogdensburg. Bought eggs Forded Ogden River (there was a toll ferry).

6 Passed some Hot Springs, some like copperas,7 at least in color; tasted salt. Bought some more cheese of very old woman & children are after us to trade butter & cheese & eggs for groceries or old clothes.

7. Hannibal bought another yoke of oxen $125, Nooned where the mosquitoes were abundant very very numerous. Reached 2nd Bear River ferry. Had the sick head ache

8. Crossed the Ferry at $4.00 pr wagon Were obliged to go 8 miles out of the road to cross a small stream which has brackish water. Nooned near the crossing. Filled the tin can with the water & were obliged to use it for tea, as we could find no other water.

9 Started before sun rise or breakfast & went about 4 miles. Found water & had breakfast & now are 3 miles from where we camped night before last on account of the bad crossing of that small stream of brackish water. Traveled about 17 miles & encamped near some brackish springs. Nearly all sick for want of good water. Very warm & dusty

10. Went 14 or 15 miles & reached a mountain stream. Nooned & went 8 miles further to a good cool stream

11. Many Indians came & were very troublesome, begging, & ready to steal if a chance was offered. Got away without any damage being done. Took water from the sink of Deep Creek, & nooned among the sage We Encamped at Pilots Springs in a desert place.

12. Through a grove of cedar Crossed several streams coming from the snow mountains Good cool water. Threatened rain at noon Thundered, sprinkled a little. Encamped on a nice stream of soft water, very clear & washed after dark.

13 Expected to reach the junction of the roads but did not. Nooned in a wild wheat field. The grain was very high; up to the horses heads. Many swarms of grass hoppers which eat grass and grain out of the heads.

14 Passed the junction in the forenoon Ironed. No water except a small puddle to wash hands in. From the time we struck the junction till we encamped we saw 7 dead cattle.

15 Saw 8 or 9 more dead cattle. Awful roads, hilly, 5 miles descent, the last hill being very steep & dangerous Emigrants need to let wagons down by ropes wound round the alder trees at the top of the hill. A mountain stream runs below as cold as ice water. In 2 miles we struck Goose Creek & nooned Rolled on 4 miles perhps & Hannibals wagon wheel broke off at the axel in crossing a small run. Mended it with a cedar stick.

16 Goose creek valley is the place for thieves it seems. We were told this morning that 100 head of cattle were stolen 5 miles ahead of us last night & in the attempt 3 men were shot, 2 badly wounded emigrants, & a few miles back 4 horses were driven off before the guards face & eyes. Night before last 7 were stolen Still we escape. Foster came up with us with a shout! hurrah! have had an addition of a son.8 Lay by 3 days only. Wightman & wife have left them. Dined with us. The Hannibals wagon in order to start. Traveled about 5 miles & encamped with many others. Nothing was heard of the Indians as was anticipated Those cattle are found & they are now in search of the stolen horses

17 Had another pudding made of wild currants. Traveled about 30 miles Almost a desert: nothing but Sage hills, very strong. Encamped in Thousand Spring Valley in a field of wild grain. Poor feed, ’tis so coarse & dry. No Inds

18 Went on a short distance when two men leading horses came running back with the intelligence that about 20 Indians had chased him back & he was oblige to fly or have his horses taken from him. He roused 15 or 20 armed men & went forward ready for them but when they arrived at the spot the Indians came running to make peace saying that the horses had got frightened at them, when they came to ask for something to eat; said they were good Indians. Shuishones — wanted to shake hands. Previous to the last meeting they had one Indian on a Pony up on the hill to take items & report to the rest who were awaiting to hear the report; but the report no doubt was that there was a vary large train close at hand & were making preparations to give them powder & bullets without delay; & thus they were baffled in their expectations. ’T is expected they will attack some small party that may come along and as I write 60 Indians are camped back 2 or 3 miles So we know not but we may [blot] attacked this night There are 19 or 20 men here tonight to defend [blot] going to guard at a time

19. No harm done. No Indians appeared as was feared. Saw 7 on the road. Springs gushing out of the road-side under a rock. First rate camp at night. Still another arrangement on the cooking. Mother bakes while I cook in week about with Louisa.

20. Hore frost. Started early & went through the canyon safely — very rough roads. A warm spring comes bubbling up from under a rock as large as a wash tub Got started thinking Indians were among the stock, but they were squaws. Encamped on the head waters of Humbolt

21 Good roads, fine feed, very dusty. Foster & [blot] shot several ducks & divided with us; fish plenty in the stream. Saw Mr Pervis of Joliet; sent [blot] address to Plainsfield [blot] him. Camped in a perfect meadow [blot] intended to have a concert but it turned into a supper of Ducks.

22. Ive got my old customers to deal with again, as usual could not get dinner. Finished the first knitted sock for Wm [Hannibal] which I commenced the 19th Fosters men shot 2 geese & gave us one Had a jaw with Stucky for calling me a liar, which did not set very well on my rennet9

23. Passed some of Zumwalts train; camped with loose cattle. Came to the forks of road; one led over the mountains, the other through the canyon crossing the Humbolt 6 or 7 times, very deep. Went the latter route which is 20 miles shorter Blocked up the wagon boxes, avoided the worst crossing & camped.

24. Had our goose for breakfast Traveled on. Crossed the river 3 times in the forenoon. Mrs. Hannibal got left because she would not get into the wagon quick enough Ed had to bring her on horse back. Very warm nooning. Did not cross again. Encamped near the mountain early. Plenty of wild currents. Had a concert in the evening.

25 Went over the mountain a stretch of 20 miles with out feed or water. Mountain very high but not very steep; very warm & fatiguing to man & beast Saw a “flying cloud”10 along with 3 or 4 young men in Co. Very good looking but badly dressed. Reached Gravelly Ford & encamped. Mrs. Foster has the sick head ache

26 Ed went to the upper ford & left a notice on a board for Cub11 that he had crossed to the South side of Humbolt the 26th. Left about ½ past 10 o’clock & traveled about 15 miles or less & stopped for the night. Bought 4 nice Salmon trout of some nearly naked Indians for a loaf of bread & some crackers. We ate the whole 4 for our supper. Splendid One Indian stole Joes fish hook & has followed on after him threatning to shoot if not delivered. He gave it up & ran for life.

27. I am going to cook the rest of the way through if my health permits. Ascended some very high hills. Some had been volcanoes & there were lumps of lava as large as my head tumbling down the mountain side which was much steeper than the roof of a house. Rained some last night. No water at noon Encamped near a Tule swamp where there were heaps upon heaps of mosquitoes, horrible to tell. A spring was at the left of the road; the water was sweet, quite sweet, — we feared it was poisonous as it made some of the boys feel strange

28. Left this miserable place & traveled about 12 miles & when we came to the river where we camped for the night the boys took a bath, while we washed & boiled ham good feed —

29. started in the midst of a large train of emigration. Nooned without water except what we packed. Traveled about 20 miles when we passed a good spring to the left of the road at the foot of a high mountain. Passed on about two miles further and encamped beside a slough.

30 Went on without any good water. Passed through a dry canyon a few [blot] of which were very rocky Traveled about 20 miles & came to the river once more & camped having about 3 pints of service berries picked for a Dumpling which went well. They are very tart.

31. Was so slow in starting that many trains got ahead of us & we took their dust all day. Touched the river at noon, but could not alight for the slough which runs along each side of the River many mosquitoes —

[August] 1. Very sandy, hard for teams, warm, many dead cattle, as often as 2 in one miles distance. We are troubled with to many slow trains ahead & behind & we are obliged to travel among them & be afflicted with their dust Got more service berries & had a concert in the evening. The boys mowed grass for a bed

2. Nooned near a slough, just no place at all to noon; no grass whatever to be got by the cattle. Crossed them over a mud hole & nearly mired them in going over & coming back. Went a little farther & encamped near the river & made a willow bridge for the stock to cross over to get grass & cut grass for the horses which are tied to the wagon for fear of getting sloughed Sold a table spoon full of acid to a trader for $2 for his mules. Got lots of service berries on the bank

3 Rolled on through the deep sand from 4 to 5 inches deep, traveled about 4 miles & stopped to rest for the long stretch tommorrow. — 18 or 20 miles without grass or water. Had some fiddling & dancing, washing, baking, knitting, reading old compositions of Ws’ [Wesleys’], scholars & more than all, more than all. [The following words are crossed out: “stuck my nose in where I had no business”]

4. Left the river traveled 9 miles then came to a fresh stream, filled our kegs traveled 3 miles & encamped on the river. Animals very tired.

5. Found that two of Hannibals oxen was missing. After hunting for them nearly all the forenoon concluded they were stolen. Traveled about 8 miles & encamped on the river where 6 horses got stuck in the river. Sold old Susan for $15, went 7 miles & encamped. I am Humbolted pretty badly these 2 or 3 days past.

6. Sunday. Travled short distance & nooned after which we travled on till night and had to stop without grass within about 5 miles of the meadows

7 Started early. Soon arrived at the meadows. Nooned. Bad water. See many bull-rushes growing in the water. Travled about 9 miles & encamped in a large plain of alkali. Good grass but poor water. Enough to kill every thing. Waded in & cut grass to carry on to the desert. Foster lost his [unreadable] steer. We all feel under the weather.

8th Left this stinking place, & reached the head Lake about noon where the boys again waded up to their waists to get grass. Foster lost another steer. We then started on about sun down filled our kegs with pretty good water. Rolled on the desert leaving the Lake. About 9 o’clock reached some stores all lighted up which looked like a circus or citylike. Were halted by old Holmes, who persuaded us to encamp until his wife’s train should come up so that we could travel together. Said Cub was not there nor would be. Well, he directed us to a slough & it being after dark could not see what kind of a place it was, how many dead cattle & horses. Here Foster lost a fine ox which he brought from Plainfield or Kanesville This slough is an outlet to the Lake 10 miles apart. Our two companys were rather under the weather but we did not take any notice of it.

9 A trader came along & gave us some directions how to treat the one horse which had become swollen about the neck & head. Applied turpentine & camphor outwardly while he poured laudanum down his throat. We soon saw that others were swelling fast. In 10 minutes 16 horses were swollen, all except Hannibals two & the two which we got of Halstead. We applied turpentine to all which removed it immediately but put the horses into torment. We soon sent for the trader & he hastened to our relief. Removed the horses & camp also to a running stream, an outlet of the Lake. Put the horses into it & all hands poured water upon their heads & necks then made a kind of paddle, a piece of board filled with tacks and slap this into the swellings. Well, Well we worked till noon & we started on the desert again, but the two iron greys died. The evening was fine arrived at the slough about 9 o’clock. Here we watered and fed our stock and to our pleasurement found that the horses were better. Traveled on briskly until daylight, when we stopped again and fed ourselves work cattle & horses, during the night we left the road on the desert.

10th. Started on and soon struck the sand. 12 miles of Sandy road, got half way through and stopped again and fed and watered, got to Carson river and watered. Here are a number of trading posts that have assumed the name of “rag town”.12 No grass here. Traveled up the river about 3 miles to willow town. Here we encamped for the night at a Smith-Shop purposing to have wagons repaired. During this day we lost one fine ox. I would also insert here that we struck the river about half past 2 o’clock —

11th Remained here having the wagons repaired until near evening, when we rolled out and traveled about three miles encamped on good grass. Stock doing well —

12th Collected the stock and to our astonishment found that our best horse (“Bill”) has again taken the swelling in his breast We used every means in our power to save him. Spent the whole day, but alas! he died about evening. During this day we lost a good cow also

13th Traveled about 16 miles across desert and encamped on good grass during the night another cow died

14 Traveled 8 miles across a desert nooned on good grass, moved on and encamped near night on the opposite side of the river near a company of Pyute Indians, grass good —

15th Traveled considerable distance (meantime crossed the river) encamped for the night, good grass during the night two cattle died, one of our’s & one of Foster’s. Would feel pretty well myself if I had not eaten so many beans. They make me feel so w----y

16 Started in pretty good season crossed a 10 mile desert & after passing along the river 1 mile camped in good grass 2 Californians stayed with us. Had a concert

17. Found that during the night 2 of Fosters cows had died & one of the horses had taken the swelling. 7 miles brought us to clear creek, passing what is called Gold Canyon or the first diggings. In the afternoon came to some ranches. Fine country for farming Fences made of pine trees & sawed boards, log houses — pretty comfortable We now are in Carson’s Valley.

18. During the night the boys attended a dance. Black horse died last night & Foster & us parted. Came up with him at noon & was surprised to see Cummings13 & Mather [?] who had come to meet Foster. Numerous springs in the valley.

19. Traveled about 8 miles and encamped near the mouth of the Canyon at a very large spring of clear cold water. Several houses near. One butcher shop bought 40 lbs of veal. The boys [unreadable] at raking and binding. Rested ready for the Cannon & Pistol in the morning. Carsons Valley is about 50 miles in length N. & S. & about 20 in width. There are several beautiful farms which are well watered by Carson’s River, & its numerous tributaries running from the snow mountains. These small streams are very convenient for farmers who have milk cows by causing the cold water to run through their milk houses, keeping the mik or butter very cool & nice. There are mountains on either side & are covered with heavy Pine which is being sawed will amply supply the inhabitants of the valley for years. A saw mill is now partly complete which will be of great service to the inhabitants. There is a grist mill also in progress & I will here insert that a small saw mill is now in operation at the mouth of the Canyon. Emigrants here can purchase fresh provisions & all kinds of vegetables, as well as fresh animals. Undoubtedly Gold mines exist in these aged mountains & will yet be discovered though not yet very extensively worked. At the base of these mountains there is a fine grass where numerous herds of cattle graze.

[August] 20. Sunday. Spent the day in traveling through worst of Canyons, distance through 5 miles. Were nearly all day in going that short distance. Encamped in Hope Valley with Foster. Rained in the night. Put taken sick by eating berries.

21. Raining still. Started early & soon came to Red Lake (or a small lake) at the foot of the first range of mountain summits of the Sierra Nevada mountains here we were delayed by teams ahead of us being stuck, having 16 yoke of oxen on. Still raining & very cold. On ascending it is very dangerous as wagons continues run back when they get as far up as Slippery Rock, which is 13 or 14 feet in length & very difficult for cattle to keep from falling. Descent is not as bad. ’Twas nearly dark before we reached a camping place in Red Lake Valley which is surrounded by mountains, some capped with snow. Grass very short.

22 Gathered up & one cow was missing Climbed up the second ridge which was steep & lengthy but not as rough as the first. Very cold. Passed just at the foot of a large snow bank which was melting some. In ascending we found 48 different kinds of flowers, some very pretty. Encamped a short distance west of the summit on very risky ground, rocks upon rocks. Drove the stock on the hill side; very cold, very windy, very damp and very uncomfortable. &c

23 Still rattling over rocks, up & down hills, some very steep, very thick timber. Pine & Balsom. No feed scarcely. Encamped at Tragedy Springs, among a drunken gang. Saw the effects of Liquor to our hearts content. Frosty.

24 Left Tradgedy Spring traveled to two miles beyond Sleek Springs road very hilly but not so rough as formaly Drove the cattle one mile to poor grass

25 Traveled to Camp Creek, nooned. killed a rattlesnake traveled about 4 miles when we came to a cut-off leading to Diamong Springs. We took this road and shortly encamped, feed close to road, roads very dusty These mountains are well timbered, air quite cool, nights exceedingly so.

26 Left Alder creek, good road till noon, when we reached Sly Park being the first Ranch we saw in Cal. here we nooned. In the after noon we traveled several miles and encamped on Whiskey Flat diggins

27 Traveled (Sunday) to Diamond Sprs. Nooned. after noon traveled Mud Sprs and encamped on [?] grass

28 Traveled through mining country until noon when we came in sight of Sac. Valley. Nooned near the old Mormon Station. In the evening encamped in the valley —

29 In the afternoon passed some pretty good farming country arrived in Sac. City in the Evening

30. Stopt at noon, ferried the Sac. River traveled about 12 miles and encamped on Pooter [Putah] creek. Bad water

31 Traveled through farming country, encamped in Ulati valley.14 tolerable grass.

Sept. 1st Started in good season passed through Suisun valley, over a ridge to Green Valley.15 Here we stopped at C. Burrell —16 thus ending a journey which for care, fatigue, tediousness, perplexities and dangers of various kinds can not be excelled.

LETTER OF WESLEY TONNER
FROM SAN JOSE TO ILLINOIS

September 10, 1854

Dear Friends

I at length have the pleasure of informing you of our safe arrival in this far-off Country. Without stopping here to tell you anything about this country I will refer you back to where I last wrote you which was at S. L. City We remained there about one day and would have been pleased to remain longer, but our time would not permit. This is a beautiful little city placed at the foot of the Wasatch mountains. For water facilities it exceeds perhaps any thing in the world — being watered by streams of fresh water flowing from the mountain and made to run along each side of every street. The buildings are neat but economically built. The City has about 8000 inhabitants besides a great number that live out in the farming portion of the country. The Lake lies about 30 miles n. w. of the city We passed it in leaving at the city. I have never yet told you that we had a melodian and violin with us. With the aid of these instruments we had many concerts, and made many an evening which would have been dull and lonesome pass off as but a moment. And Itell you there would be no small noise when us Cowdrivers would join in the Chorus Boys carry me long — Lily dale, Young folks at home, Old Folks at Egg Hill &c. Sometimes we would have visiters from other camps young boys for instance who had left dear Bro’s & Sisters at home — and when we were engaged in singing and playing these mourneful melodies — the tears could be seen starting from the eyes of these little prodigals if you will allow me the word. Our Melodian got considerably abused and we concluded to sell it to the Mormons. Some of the Brethren told us that Gov. Young would be likely to buy it. So we soon all but the old lady jumped into the wagon and “took a ride” to the Gov’s. Without much regard paid to ettiquete we soon entered the office and made known the object of our visit. The Gov said he was well supplied with music. (So I thought from he has fifty wives.) However some one called for a song and one of our feminines played, and the Cowdrivers sung until we had sang all we knew and more too. We then sold the melodian at a good profit. I will here leave the Mormon subject until I see you when I can tell you much more than I have and with more ease. This is Sunday and I must stop writing and get ready to go to meeting. Meeting is over I have returned home Home did I say? Yes, although among strangers I am treated as kindly as if I had brothers Sisters & Parents here, but it is not the same. —

Now follow me if you please (in mind) over a worthless country until you arrive at Goose Creek abut 180 miles from the City This is a perfect “Hell hole” for stealing cattle, fighting the emigrants &c. During this season not less than 150 horses have been stolen on this stream in a distance of only 20 miles, as this is the distance we travel on it. As an instance of matters at this place, I will relate to you the preceedings of one night while we were there. Previous to this you must be aware that the Road to Cal is now lined with Trading Posts, kept by Frenchmen mostly, who I believe are to a man worse for stealing than the Indians. A man on a mule attempted to drive our horses out of camp. But I happened to be standing guard on said night & as soon as I saw the chap & stopped him in his wild cause by making towards him with a Revolver cocked and in my hand, He pretended to be on the hunt of some Packers and asked a question to that effect which I answered immediately and he passed on. I wish I had shot the rascal & I would have done it had he not spoken when he did — About one hour after this, just before the moon arose to put a stop to his fun, this rascal returned — passed our camp at some distance & at the camp below us where they were not guarding drove out four horses and escaped with them doubtless in the same way he wanted to steal ours. The same night the Indians undertook to steal from a camp 5 miles above us, which resulted in a fight in which two of the emigrants got wounded one shot in the neck the other in the arm. I believe they both got well

Pass over another space of country and you will find it about the 9th of August at the Sink of the Humboldt. This sink is now nothing more than a lake about 10 miles squ filling the valley from the base of one mountain to the base of the other. The sink has broken out lately, forming an outlet or slough which makes the real desert about 10 miles shorter than formerly This though is a grave yard for cattle. The night before we started on the desert, and next morning all horses were sick with what is called an incurable disease. Two died and the rest we cured for the time being, but a few days after three more died with a return of the disease. Out of 49 horn cattle we got 35 of them through and that by frequently trading off lame ones for others. Carson valley is pleasant. Crossing the Sierra Nevada mountains is too hard a task to put down on paper. On the 29th of Aug. we entered Sac[ramento] City in the evening — Remained all day and left next day at noon. Crossed the Sac. River and traveled west until we reached Green Valley. Situate in the Eastern Border of the Coast Range Mountains about 11 miles N. E. of Benicia. Here we stopped with our cattle. Our joy at the thoughts that are ever no more to drive cattle through alkali dust, guard them amidst the bites of venomous insects, through storm and through rain &c, was inexpressible I forgot to tell you that we bought 3 Yoke of oxen before we left S. L. settlements and put them to one wagon, thereby giving our poor jaded horses a chance to recruit some [In margin: “And I am now as good an oxdriver as can be scared up”] On the 4th [of September] some of us started for San Jose by public conveyance. It costs about 12 or 15 cts. per mile to travel in this country. $ 1.00 per meal While riding in the stage in coming to this place I paid 50 cts for a pie. And it was no great scratch pie neither. Boarding is from 8 to $10 per week. Wheat is worth from 1½ to 2 c per pound. Wages for common labor from 2 to $5 per day and 40 to $50 per month, and very hard it is to get employ at all. IIntend working at the carpenter business for about $4.00 per day and board myself. Since I have been here I have been stopping with a Brotherinlaw to the man I came with They are bully folks, very clever indeed. He is in his disposition very much like Bro Bill. They are just as clever to the other boys.

Before leaving Kanesville or Council Bluff city we got into a bitter scrape with the I ndians. Perhaps you heard of it, and perhaps not. I would have told you about this before this, but I was afraid it would make mother feel more uneasy about me while traveling through an Indian country and not chance for writing often

You are aware that we were encamped while there on a little stream a few miles south of the City. There was one other camp on this stream about ¾ of mile above us. On Sunday the last day of April (I believe it was) n Indians attacked said camp without any cause and banished them away from the camp shooting at some of the emigrants causing them to fly to our camp for rescue. We boys each of us mounted a horse with what arms we had & proceeded to the Seat of War. I had the day before bought a Colts Revolver & soon found a good chance to use it. When got near the camp we found the Indian in possession and one Indian laying groaning that had been wounded in the scuffle before the emigrants fled. There were but three of us to do any thing and we found that our Pistols could not compete with the Rifles of the Indians. Meantime we sent a messenger to town for reinforcements. We tried to get the indians on the run by keeping a proper distance and firing with pistols into camp. They soon began to run each one his own way. We kept sight of them as well as we could for we did not dare go too close lest he would pick us off our horses with his rifle. You will perceive that we had lost sight of them all by this time except one. Another fellow and myself kept watch on this fellow until the force would come from town. We cast our eyes at the prairie & saw coming mounted on horse one of the Indians we had started and was coming too full flight with rifle in hand. We thought it our safest plan to wheel which we did, and made for camp. Indians after us. When we got near the camp we met a reinforcement from town. — and the Indian now wheeled running towards the Indian we had been watching. His horse could out strip ours, but followed as close as we could and when we again got sight of them they were both on that horse. We urged our horses and when we got within about 300 yds. they stopped their horse and both fired into our crowd which now numbered about 20 horseman. Now was our time when we knew their guns were both empty. And then commenced a chase which was worth seeing, the fellows then had the best horse, foremost. We ran across that Missouri bottom I should think about two miles. When we came up pretty close to them. My horse was the fastest except a mule which led our van. As soon as a fellow thought he was close enough he would shoot. Soon the formost Indian fell dead from his horse pulling with him the other one. This one had draw a Butcher knife and empty gun to fight with, and he done well for he came near getting into timber and escaping in spite of us. [Following scratched out: “from the fact that we have now”] nearly all our guns empty. While trying to drop the villain with my revolver he ran up and gave me a dig in the leg with his knife, before I could wheel the horse. We killed these two and the one that was wounded, afterwards died. So we heard none of our crowd were hurt any except myself and that but slight. There was some talk of having us arrested — a man told me so the next day in Kanesville. Itold him they might crack away. However they thought best to leave it alone I guess. I do not think there was any wrong about it. I fought for my rights, and tried to kill them lest they might attack our camp we knew not when.

We understood afterwords that the Indian Chief said we had served them right, that they had no business to cross the Missouri and molest the emigrants. We also heard that there was a reward out for those that had a hand in killing the Indians, & that orders were sent to Laramie to stop us there. But we traveled on unmolested and not afraid. If any body had tried to take us after we were on the Plains they would have got reward with our Pistols for here we had the law in our own hands. I have received but one letter here instead of about six 6 as I expected. When you write direct to San Jose City, Cal.

Yours as ever Wesley Tonner.

The letter I received was from Tom.

1 For a perceptive treatment of this river see Dale L. Morgan, in “The Rivers of America” series, The Humboldt, Highroad of the West (New York, 1943).

2 Lucy Foster Sexton, The Foster Family, California Pioneers, (Santa Barbara, 1925), p. 180.

1 This fracas is described in much more detail by Wesley Tonner in his letter of September 10, 1854, which follows the diary.

2 This was Peter A. Sarpy, a 50-year-old man of the American Fur Company. He had been in charge of the post at Bellevue, the oldest town in Nebraska. Anticipating that Nebraska would soon become a territory of the United States he had set up a post office in 1850. His hat was the mailbox. Dorothy Weyer Creigh, Nebraska, A Bicentennial History (New York, 1977), p. 51; Lilian L. Fitzpatrick, Nebraska Place names (Lincoln, 1967), p 124; John E. Wickman, “Peter A. Sarpy,” LeRoy R. Hafen, Edit., The Mountain Men and the Fur Trade, IV (Glendale, CA, 1966), p. 283—96.

3 The Missouri Valley newspapers reported over and over again during the spring of 1854 that thousands of head of livestock were being driven over the plains that year. There were cattle, sheep, horses and mules in vast numbers. Louise Barry, The Beginning of the West (Topeka, 1972), pp. 1200–01.

4 Here she is writing on the site of the Grand Pawnee Village that had been destroyed by the Sioux not long previous. In her reference to Mathus and Marcellus we are reminded that in reading and interpreting any 19th century educated person, one had better keep handy Smith’s Smaller Classical Dictionary, for classical studies made up a major part of education in those days. Here Mary Burrell is evidently referring to M. Claudius Marcellus, who in 40 B.C. was murdered by his own close attendant, P. Magius Chilo. She seems to be comparing the killing of Indians by their Indian brothers.

5 This trading post would eventually become the pioneer town of Wood River, but not until 1869. Lilian L. Fitzpatrick, Nebraska Place Names (Lincoln, 1960), p. 70. The “Dr Clarke” mentioned here as running a hospital was probably George W. Clarke, an Indian agent, who would be placed in charge of the Pottawatomie Agency in present Kansas. Louise Barry, The Beginning of the West: Annals of the Kansas Gateway to the American West, 1840–1854 (Topeka, 1972), pp. 1191 and 1201. Elizabeth Myrick also mentions “Dr. Clark the United States Indian Agent” in her entry for May 25.

6 There were several pioneering Zumwalt and Gilson families in early California. We have not been able to sort these out. Colusa County became the locale for several Zumwalt families. Willis S. Green, History of Colusa County (San Francisco, 1880), p.

7 Copperas is not a copper compound, as one might expect, hut an iron salt, ferrous sulfate. It is green in color.

8 Fred Foster was the baby. Lucy Foster Sexton, The Foster Family, California Pioneers (Santa Barbara, 1925), p. 80.

9 Rennet, which is obtained from a calves’ stomach, is used to separate the curd from the whey in the making of cheese. Evidently what she means here that her stomach was upset.

10 In Mary Burrell’s day the clipper ship was the equivalent of today’s space shuttle. The Flying Cloud was a ship built by master shipbuilder Donald Mckay. It was launched in 1851 and sailed around the Horn from New York to San Francisco in 89 days. She is evidently referring here to an extra-fast covered wagon.

11 “Cub” was the nickname of Cuthhert Burrell, her father’s brother, who had preceded them to California and was settled in Green Valley, Sonoma County. He is listed in the 1860 Federal Census as a farmer, 58 years old, born in England. The y expected him to come out to meet them.

12 “Rag towns” cropped up all along the trail, the incipient towns. Some of them grew up to maturity, others became ghost towns.

13 This was William Cummings, the husband of Mariett Foster Cummings, whose diary appears in this series, Volume IV (California Trail, 1852) pp. 117–168, especially pp. 117–119.

14 Ulatis Creek in Solano County is named for the Ululato Indians who once lived in the neighborhood. Erwin G. Gudde, California Place Names (Berkeley, 1969).

15 This was their first California destination. The beautiful Green Valley was named, not for the lusciousness of its growth, but because a Spanish official got sick there and vomited “green.” Ibid., p. 128.

16 See footnote 11, above.