CHAPTER 5

NOW MORE THAN EVER

But now to my dinner . . .”

Or so began Hale’s extravagant description of the kind of celebration she hoped would soon be a national pastime. She knew exactly how to lay out an “excessive table.” Hale had, in fact, described in spectacular detail that very species of table seven years earlier in her novel Northwood; or, A Tale of New England, in which the better part of an entire chapter is devoted to a thanksgiving dinner.

First, she delves into decadent detail about the table in the parlor: “A long table, formed by placing two of the ordinary size together . . . covered with a damask cloth.” She extols the whiteness and texture of the cloth, noting that everyone in the family would get to enjoy the fine linen: “every child having a seat on this occasion; and the more the better, it being considered an honor for a man to sit down to his Thanksgiving supper surrounded by a large family.”

Despite the fact that earlier in the chapter Hale claims that “the description of a feast is a kind of literary treat, which I never much relished,” she makes an exception “as this was a Thanksgiving entertainment, one which was never before, I believe, served up in style to novel epicures, I may venture to mention some of the peculiarities of the festival.”

She then launches into descriptions of the food that were beyond indulgent:

“The roasted turkey took precedence on this occasion, being placed at the head of the table; and well did it become its lordly station, sending forth the rich odor of its savory stuffing, and finely covered with the frost of the basting. At the foot of the board a sirloin of beef, flanked on either side by a leg of pork and loin of mutton, seemed placed as a bastion to defend innumerable bowls of gravy and plates of vegetables disposed in that quarter. A goose and pair of ducklings occupied side stations on the table; the middle being graced, as it always is on such occasions, by that rich burgomaster of the provisions, called a chicken pie.” She describes that pie as “wholly formed of the choicest parts of the fowls, enriched and seasoned with a profusion of butter and pepper, and covered with an excellent puff paste, is, like the celebrated pumpkin pie, an indispensable part of a good and true Yankee Thanksgiving.”

Hale did not stop there. There were “plates of pickles, preserves, and butter,” as well as seasonings, wine, a “huge plum pudding, custards and pies of every name and description ever known in Yankee land. . . . [S]everal kinds of rich cake, and a variety of sweetmeats and fruits.” Currant wine. Ginger beer. Tumblers and sideboards and conversation and thanks.

The four food pillars of Thanksgiving—turkey, cranberries, stuffing, and pumpkin pie—already had a foothold in American cuisine. Native Americans had long eaten cranberries, fresh and dried. In addition to their vitamin C, they contain benzoic acid, a natural preservative, making them ideal for storage. Stuffing, or “forcemeat” (from the French farce), was an established culinary practice in England and continental Europe that had made its way to the tables of settlers on this continent. Eating fowl had a long tradition in many parts of the world, from the finest of tables—sixty-six were served up to Catherine de Medici in 1549—to the simplest of settlements, eaten wild or domesticated. And pie from pumpkin also had a history in England. In North America the gourds grow well and are harvested in late summer or early fall—making them ripe for the holiday. A recipe for the treat can be found in America’s earliest known cookbook, American Cookery, published by Amelia Simmons in 1796.

But until Hale put pen to paper in 1827, no American writer had ever deigned to describe in such deliciously effusive detail the components of a Yankee thanksgiving.

Her characters sat around a table to delight in the kind of over-the-top and magnificent feast that would eventually grace tables across the United States each November. However, despite the various proclamations to date, both state and national, there was still no nationally established thanksgiving holiday in November. And Hale’s book was utter fiction.

Whether she realized it or not, Hale was positioning herself as a domestic arts goddess, an arbiter of not just manners but, she hoped, traditions that transcended differences. The foods eaten, the setting, and the decor of the table were critical, as was the idea of giving thanks together, as a nation. She wanted to take what had been an ad hoc, regionally malleable event and transform it into a national holiday.

She would need to petition those in a position to help her. People in power. Elected officials. In the meantime, the “editress,” as she often called herself, would continue to preach to her readership in the pages of Godey’s Lady’s Book. The magazine made a fine pulpit, its circulation increasing by the thousands each year under Hale’s editorship. Magazines were precious commodities and often shared by and among friends. Considering that a subscriber might share their “book” with five neighbors, Hale could easily have been preaching her thanksgiving gospel to an audience of hundreds of thousands of readers, in a time when the country’s population totaled just over seventeen million.

Her personal life in the early days after moving to Philadelphia—even in the wake of her son David’s death—was fruitful. Her family had suffered a loss but was growing as well. Her daughter Frances Ann married Philadelphia physician and naval surgeon Dr. Lewis Boudinot Hunter, grandson of Declaration of Independence signer Richard Stockton. This aspect of her son-in-law’s lineage must have surely pleased Hale, to whom the Union meant so much. “Mary’s Lamb” appeared in print yet again, this time in My Little Song Book, and its popularity continued to grow. The seeds of a former crusade—her desire to see the completion of the Bunker Hill Monument—came to fruition. Though her initial outreach to readers raised only $3,000, Hale had not been deterred. She had organized a fair at Quincy Hall that lasted seven days, where women sold crafts, jams, baked goods, and more. Hale created a special publication for the fair—aptly titled “The Monument”—full of short poems and anecdotes, which raised more than $500 on its own. By the end of the fair, not only had Hale’s venture raised $30,000 in sales, but its success inspired other deep-pocketed donors, bringing the total raised to well over $50,000. Those who had initially scoffed at the idea that women could raise the required sum where men had failed were suitably chastened. Hale attended the monument’s dedication—thirteen years after she first began raising awareness and money for it.

The middle of the century brought a profusion of activism around the area of women’s rights. The Woman’s Rights Convention—the first of its kind—was held in 1848 in Seneca Falls, New York. This was driven by the efforts of Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Quaker preacher Lucretia Coffin Mott, Mary M’Clintock (who along with Mott organized the Philadelphia Female Anti-Slavery Society), Martha Coffin Wright (who also ran a station on the Underground Railroad), and Quaker activist Jane Hunt. The overlap between the abolitionist movement and the women’s rights movement was significant, with abolitionist, statesman, and author Frederick Douglass speaking at Seneca Falls as well. Hale did not attend or cover the event.

“We have said little of the ‘Rights of Woman,’” Hale wrote sometime after the convention. “Her first right is to education in its widest sense—to such education as will give her the full development of all her personal, mental, and moral qualities. Having that, there will be no longer any questions about her rights; and rights are liable to be perverted to wrongs when we are incapable of rightly exercising them. . . . The Ladys Book . . . was the first avowed advocate of the holy cause of women’s intellectual progress; it has been the pioneer in the wonderful change of public sentiment respecting female education, and the employment of female talent in educating the young. We intend to go on, sustained and accelerated by this universal encouragement, till our grand aim is accomplished, till female education shall receive the same careful attention and liberal support from public legislation as are bestowed on that of the other sex.”

As tirelessly as Hale may have advocated, in action and voice, for women’s education and marital rights, she stopped far short of being a suffragette. Hale would never lobby for the blanket rights of women. Not long after the Seneca convention, she wrote a column titled “How American Women Should Vote.” In it, Hale describes a woman—unnamed, and quite possibly fictional—with a husband and six sons. The woman explains, “I control seven votes; why should I desire to cast one myself?” Hale concludes, “This is the way American women should vote, namely, by influencing rightly the votes of men.”

In the pages of her magazine, she not only supported education for women but also pressed for the advancement of women in fields where they were still unwelcome, such as medicine. She mocked reports of male students complaining about feeling uncomfortable studying alongside women, and that women could not always be relied upon to be available due to their responsibilities at home. Hale heralded Elizabeth Blackwell, the first woman to receive a medical degree in the United States, when she graduated in 1849.

Hale in theory and in practice might seem rather contrarian. In appearance, she was ever the Victorian: her side curls, bustles, crinoline, and pantalets. And yet in her pages, alongside elaborate instructions for broiling meat or using dress patterns, she would protest inequities against women in the fields of education and property rights. She was, in her way, almost subtle—and perhaps more subversive. She used her fictional writings and her ladies’ publication to rally for change, and supported other women as a growing force in the media.