CHAPTER 12

POMP AND CHANGING CIRCUMSTANCE

In 1876, just three years before Hale’s death, the first Thanksgiving Day football game was played between Yale and Princeton, for the American Intercollegiate Football Association championship—though the game still evidenced its rugby roots. In the years to come, those two teams soon became Thanksgiving Day regulars, and it was not long before numerous high school and college football teams began to hold games on the holiday. It may not have been what Hale envisioned, but traditions evolve, often in unexpected ways and for unpredictable reasons.

In Sarah Josepha Hale’s own lifetime, the celebration and tradition of thanksgiving had morphed between and conflated cultural, ancient, religious, and secular customs. Establishing a national day—not a date—associated with giving thanks allowed for increased coalescing around what was becoming a newly fixed, yet increasingly malleable tradition. In addition to her campaigning for the holiday itself, Hale’s endless hostessing tips and descriptions for how one might best celebrate—whether discussing the overladen table in her novel Northwood, or sharing her white wine vinegar dressing for fish or “soodjee” with the readers of the Lady’s Book—further codified the event.

Some concepts surrounding a thanksgiving commemoration eventually became somewhat less frequent however, including the issuance of presidential proclamations for days of thanksgiving other than the one that now fell at the end of November. The custom of proclaiming days of fasting and prayer, or thanksgivings for various military achievements, slowly ebbed and fell away without much notice, like the last few scraps off a turkey’s carcass. President Benjamin Harrison, in April 1889, issued a proclamation of thanksgiving to honor the centennial of George Washington’s inauguration. The thanksgiving proclamations that remained, year after year, were those pertaining to the holiday Hale had envisioned.

In the 1890s, the media took note of the cultural landscape of the day, some noting that in years past the holiday might have been given scant notice, whereas it was now a main fixture on the calendar. The celebration of the holiday also became a reflection of the nation’s changing population. The turn of the century saw a drastic increase in immigrant communities throughout the country, especially in major metropolitan areas.

In honor of Thanksgiving Day in 1897, the Chicago Tribune highlighted varying celebrations among the different ethnic groups within their city. “Alien Residents of Chicago Feel Spirit of Thanks” was the title of just one article on a two-page spread in the newspaper. “Foreign born citizens of America will see to it that the observance of Thanksgiving . . . does not pass away. . . . Investigation shows that if the old-time ‘rejoicing after the harvest’ is losing any of the essence of praise and gratitude, it is losing it among the very people who express the fear that it may be lost. As the American loosens his grip upon this feast of his fathers, the foreigner tightens his grasp and last hold on that which he considered good.” The newspaper shared stories from a local fisherman—“Peg” Ecks—who caught his dinner in Lake Michigan and “dined in solitude on the Lake Shore within the shadow of millionaires’ homes.” Editors also visited the Polish, Italian, Swedish, German, French, and “Bohemian” communities, describing how each chose to celebrate in their adopted home. “There are three kinds of Bohemians in Chicago . . . ,” the editors wrote, “the Hussites, the Catholics, and the Free Thinkers, but one and all will celebrate this semi-religious and purely American festival of Thanksgiving.”

The publication further captured the evolution of the day, writing, “I have noticed the growth of the Thanksgiving spirit, in a holiday sense, among the Bohemians and among other people of foreign birth. It may seem passing strange one day if the life of the festival depends upon those to whom its spirit was at one time thought foreign.”

Not to be left out, the non–meat eaters of the city celebrated as well, and the menu at the Vegetarian club of the University of Chicago included mock turtle soup with quenelles, chartreuse of cranberries, and potatoes en pyramid with mushrooms.

Of course, one of the key tenets of Hale’s holiday, as well as thanksgivings and harvest festivals since time immemorial, remained intact: the concept of gratitude. And by the turn of the twentieth century, charity, too, became even more closely associated with the thanksgiving holiday and was encouraged as a means of celebrating the day.

“While we all give thanks, truly and from grateful hearts, ‘let us scatter beams of sunshine,’” wrote the editors of the New Education in their November 1898 edition. The stated aim of the monthly publication out of New York City was “inspiration,” its motto “Not what we promise—but what we do.” Subscriptions were one dollar a year and advertising rates three dollars per column inch. The publication featured book reviews and language lessons, readings in geography and advice on writing, poetry, and history. With regard to Thanksgiving Day, the opening editorial reminded readers to remember those who had gone to the “land of perpetual thanksgiving” since the previous year. “Can we not put aside our pleasures for an hour or two, and ‘weep with those who weep’ at this, their first lonely Thanksgiving Day? . . . And let us all try to see the bright side more, the dull one less, and to emphasize the blessings instead of always mentioning the afflictions which must drop into every life, and which we must not, therefore, expect to escape. But even these have a bright side, if only we will learn to look for it. . . . Let us be thankful . . . to develop the ‘bettermost’ side of ourselves, and at the same time not forget those who need our help. . . . And finally, let us be doubly grateful for the troubles that we have escaped!”

Hale and her role in the custom were not mentioned in that lengthy editorial, nor in the extensive spread in the Tribune. But as the twentieth century dawned, distance increased from Lincoln’s proclamation, the tradition seemed firmly fixed on the November calendar, and the media began to look back at what they thought were the origins of the holiday. Lincoln was most often credited, but Sarah Josepha Hale’s name was eventually included in these backward glances.

A two-page spread in a November 1916 issue of the Journal and Tribune out of Knoxville, Tennessee, announced: “Thanksgiving Proclamations of Our Presidents: The Evolution of Thanksgiving Documents from George Washington’s Quill Pen Proclamation to President Wilson’s Call to Thanksgiving Written by Himself on a Typewriter.” The newspaper offered a survey of sorts of the holiday over the years, stating, “Our Thanksgiving Day belongs to all the people of our land, of whatever creed or race.” The article asserted that the holiday’s roots reached back to Holland in 1575, where the “English pilgrims” lived before traveling to what would become Massachusetts. The piece also devoted a significant section to Hale and asserted there was much to be thankful for in 1916, as the United States had avoided the “ravages of war.” In five months, that would all change.

President Woodrow Wilson’s 1916 Thanksgiving Day proclamation referenced the conflict already tearing Europe apart. “In the midst of our peace and happiness,” Wilson wrote, “our thoughts dwell with painful disquiet upon the struggles and sufferings of the nations at war and of the peoples upon whom war has brought disaster without choice or possibility of escape on their part. We cannot think of our own happiness without thinking also of their pitiful distress.”

By the following April, the United States declared war on Germany.

No one had seen anything like the Great War in their lifetime, and all corners of the nation felt its effects. Thanksgiving itself, during wartime, was tweaked by many to reflect the current struggle. The United States Food Administration—headed by Herbert Hoover—had already established a number of food-saving efforts, including “meatless Monday” and “wheatless Wednesday” (both of which maintain popularity in America today). USFA posters and propaganda insisted “Food will win the war,” and implored families to sign petitions stating they would adhere to the restrictions. As the holiday approached, the agency and the media urged citizens to “Hooverize” their thanksgivings, in order to better reserve supplies and food stores for troops and allies overseas. Businesses and hotels complied as well. One newspaper in Santa Barbara, California, offered menus that could be tailored to these patriotic suggestions. The menus were “guaranteed,” the paper promised, “to do justice to the occasion and at the same time conserve the food most needed for the successful prosecution of the war.”

Similar advice was found in publications across the country, and the suggestions were variations on common culinary themes: No granulated sugar in the cranberry sauce or in pies—use brown sugar or molasses instead. No meat “in the making of your soup.”

So when the holiday in that war-torn year came around, the press suggested stuffing the turkey with oysters or chestnuts to save bread. Making plum pudding egg-free. Ice cream was suggested for dessert, and though it fell on what one newspaper described as “ice-creamless Thursday,” it was assumed that an exception would be made for the holiday.

In his proclamation of 1917, President Wilson wrote that stopping to give thanks was a “custom we can follow now even in the midst of the tragedy of a world shaken by war and immeasurable disaster, in the midst of sorrow and great peril, because even amidst the darkness that has gathered about us we can see the great blessings God has bestowed upon us, blessings that are better than mere peace of mind and prosperity of enterprise.”

One year hence, in November 1918, the war was over. Germany and the allies signed their armistice agreement on November 11.

One reader wrote to the New York Times on Armistice Day, likening the day’s rejoicing to a thanksgiving, calling it the “most spontaneous, and, on the whole, the most generous in spirit of any within the memory of the present generation.” The letter continued, “Should not the spirit of this day be perpetuated? Would not humanity be the better for a universal holiday consecrated to international ideals, to brotherly love among peoples? . . . Is there not a place at this season of the year for a holiday devoted to the feeling of thanksgiving and of human brotherhood, and can these feelings be associated with any event better than with that to to-day, when peace, we hope permanent, has been given to the world?”

Wilson’s proclamation for Thanksgiving Day 1918 was issued on November 16, just five days after the signing of the armistice.

“It has long been our custom to turn in the autumn of the year in praise and thanksgiving,” the president began. “This year we have special and moving cause to be grateful and to rejoice. God has in His good pleasure given us peace.”

It was a lot to be thankful for, in America and far beyond her shores, but despite the coming cessation of hostilities, the world did not enjoy freedom from concern that year. There was yet another foe to be bested, one that had been ravaging citizens across the globe since January.