Why cooking with soy?

I have always believed that what we do in this world should reflect our greatest passions.

I love food and I enjoy anything to do with food; not only eating and cooking it, but also learning about food and its nutritional benefits—even shopping. I also enjoy sharing recipes and passing on my cooking skills. That is why I have been a chef for over a decade and have taught cooking for nearly 20 years, both in Japan and Australia.

I love almost all foods, but I have a special passion for tofu. There might be food out there that is tastier than tofu and some people think tofu is bland and so avoid it. But tofu is a healthy food—it is low in fat and calories, has zero saturated fat, it’s cholesterol-free, rich in protein and provides bone-healthy minerals, like calcium, potassium and magnesium. The benefits of tofu are many and easy to find.

I have a strong passion for health and place a high value on it. So I love that tofu can be so versatile and yet deliver the benefits I need for a healthy life. You can eat it plain, deep-fried, stir- fried, steamed, grilled or stewed. You can use it to make sauces, dressings and desserts. You can change the shape of it—slice it, dice it, grate it, purée it, crumb it—there are so many choices.

Tofu and other soy products have been widely used in Asian cuisine for more than a thousand years and yet they can be used in any type of cuisine—European, Middle Eastern and South American—as you will discover in this book.

In 2007, I started Healthy Soy Cooking to help inspire healthy living and to teach innovative ways to cook with tofu and other soy products such as edamame, miso, soy sauce, soymilk and more.

Since then I have been creating various soy dishes; and not just for Japanese styles, but also for other cuisines I learnt through my commercial cooking days, working in various restaurants. This is the book where I can finally share with you the recipes that I have been teaching and creating for almost 20 years.

So here’s hoping I can inspire you to eat and live healthily, and open up your world to the magic of these healthy and tasty soy dishes!

The story of soy

Go natural

Soybeans are a kind of bean that is used in many various kinds of foods, ranging from soy milk, soy sauce, miso, and tofu. Soybeans are also commonly included in vegetarian and vegan diets due to their nutrient rich nature, and also because of their versatile texture. Soy has been included in Asian cuisine for many hundreds of years, and has more recently entered Western cuisine.

The health benefits of soy

Soy is commonly known as a healthy food. As it can be used as a meat substitute, it is highly nutritious with many health benefits, such as:

1. High in fibre

2. High in protein

3. Free of cholesterol and lactose

4. Low in saturated fat

5. Prevents bone loss

6. Source of omega-3

7. Good source of isoflavones

8. Contains high amount of phytoestrogens, which can help with menopausal symptoms

9. Source of antioxidants

10. Good source of estrogen, which strengthens bones and also lowers cholesterol

The history of soy

Soybeans first originated in China, and were later cultivated in Japan and other Asian countries. Soybeans were first grown in Asia for their seeds, which were used for fermented, dried and fresh foods in Asian diets. Soy features as a primary product in many Asian cuisines, and especially in Japan. Japanese cuisine features soybeans in many forms, incorporating them into their cuisine on a daily basis.

In the early 20th century, soybeans began to be cultivated in America and were initially used as a manure. It was only after the 1940's that soybeans began to be grown as a food product in America. Today, the US is the largest manufacturer of soybeans in the world, along with Brazil, Argentina, India and China also producing large amounts. Soybeans and soy by-products are now readily available in many supermarkets in Western nations. Despite this, the majority of the soybeans produced in the US are GMO. There is a lot of controversy around GMO food, and particularly GMO soybeans. Conflicting arguments about the nature of soy will be explored in the text below.

Japan: The soy country

In Japan, soy is eaten every day in many different ways. Soy sauce is the most common seasoning used in Japan. Soy is consumed in many common food dishes in Japan, such as miso (fermented soybean paste) soup, which is one of the most common national dishes in Japan and is consumed on a daily basis, and very commonly, even more than once a day. In addition to tofu, there are also many other kinds of tofu by-products eaten in Japan, which include aburaage, natto, okara, edamame, atsuage and kinako, which are just a few of them. A fermented soy product like natto is eaten as part of a traditional Japanese breakfast or lunch every day.

In places in Japan such as izakayas, there are always many different kinds of tofu dishes on the menu. The three most commonly consumed soy products in Japan are tofu, miso and soy sauce. These three products are consumed on a daily basis for most Japanese people. Although these soy products are so commonly consumed in Japan, Japan is not a big consumer of soy milk, which differs highly from Western nations who consume lots of soy milk.

In contrast with Western nations, Japan eats most of its soy products in a whole form. In Japan there are also shops that specialise in selling tofu and tofu products, so people have the option of buying freshly made tofu every day. Japan has one similarity with Western nations in that Japanese people consume many soy products on a daily basis. As soy is used in many processed foods, many people in Western nations are consuming soy products unknowingly every day. Soy is one of the essential staples of the Japanese diet, but Japanese people consume soy in different ways than Western nations, which may account for the health differences between the two.

As Japanese people do not consume soy in its processed form, they are more likely to receive many of the health benefits of soy. As the Japanese soybean products are largely made from the whole bean, people who consume soy in this way are less likely to suffer from negative effects. Like any other beans, it is said that consuming soy causes digestion problems. Eating fermented soy products, such as miso, can actually aid digestion though, so a good suggestion would be to try these kinds of soy products first.

Another important thing to consider when thinking about the differences between the rate of cardiovascular diseases in Western nations and Japan is that Japan consumes soy products in moderation.

If you are choosing to include soybeans in your diet, it is best to go organic if you can, or look for labels that state non-GMO soybeans are used. Choosing fermented soybean products such as natto, tempeh, or miso is also a good option.

The controversies about soy

Have you heard that soy is bad for you?

It has been claimed often in the media that soy is not healthy for people to consume, and may in fact damage your health. However, there are also articles that claim that soy is a healthy food product, and should be consumed.

Soy is a controversial topic in the media because there are conflicting arguments about this food product. It has been said that soy is both good and bad for you. This can be confusing, but it is best to educate yourself about both of the arguments and decide for yourself.

The reason why many people believe that soy is bad for you is because there are many kinds of bad soy available, and less good kinds of soy being grown now. In addition to the bad kinds of soy which include GMO and processed soy, many people are developing soy allergies in response to the GMO or processed kinds of soy which furthers the argument that soy is not good for you. However, the evidence provided will hopefully convince you whether or not consuming soy is a lifestyle choice you should consider.

Bad soy: the most common GMO

In the US, over 90% of soybeans are genetically modified. Genetically modified foods often do not contain the nutrients of the genuine food. Not only that, many GMO (genetically modified organisms) foods are sprayed with herbicides which can damage health. GMO foods are considered to be very controversial in the media, and it has been argued that genetically modified foods may cause diseases such as cancer. This is one of the contributing factors in the argument that soy is bad for you.

Despite this, several studies have shown that natural soybeans are actually very nutritious and contain many health benefits.

GMO soy is hidden everywhere

Due to the spread of soy being used in so many processed foods, many people all over the world are consuming GMO soy products unknowingly. The consumption of these GMO soy products often causes allergies, which explains the high rate of allergies to soy in Western nations, while Asian countries have very low rates of soy allergies.

Also, 85% of soybeans manufactured in the US are used to make soybean oil. To extract oil from soybeans, chemicals are used, which remove the health benefits of the soybeans, as well as making soybean oil dangerous to consume. After removing the oil, the leftover soy has chemical residue as well as lessened nutritional benefits.

After making soybean oil, the leftover soybeans are used in other processed products, such as:

1. diet shakes

2. chocolate

3. soy milk

4. commercial baking products

5. protein bars

6. biscuits

7. protein powder

8. commercial cereals

9. some brands of commercial breads found in supermarkets

Are you drinking GMO soybean meal + oil + water = soy milk?

Many people switch from regular dairy such as cow's milk to soy milk in search of a healthier option, or simply to lose weight, but this can sometimes be even unhealthier and less nutritious. The reason for this is not because soy milk is unhealthy in general, but because many kinds of soy milk use GMO soybeans or GMO soybean meal to produce soy milk, which is not nutritious at all and is likely to damage your health.

Usually the packaging will say soybeans on the label, but this generally means that soybean meal has been used. Soybean meal is the by-product of soybean oil, and is not always a healthy choice, as it can be mixed with other ingredients.

Soy milk is another example of the vast difference between the ways in which Asian and Western countries consume soybeans. Asian countries use only whole soybeans to produce soy milk. Western countries use soybean powder and sometimes even GMO soybean powder to produce soy milk.

Asian soy milk has a strong bean flavour and almost tastes like drinking tofu. Because of this it is not very popular in Western countries, and unlike Western soy milks, it also needs to be refrigerated. In Western countries, the nature of soy milk differs vastly as the majority of Western soy milk is vacuum sealed, does not need to be refrigerated, and has a long shelf life, as well as containing additives such as sugar or oil.

Soybeans have natural oil, but chemicals are often used to extract the oil, which then creates soybean powder. Soybean powder is a by-product of soybean oil. 80% of soybeans are used to produce soybean oil. Soybean powder does not contain any natural fat, so various oils are added to make it creamy.

Even if soy milk says organic, it still does not mean it is the healthiest option, as some “organic” soy milks do not use whole soy beans.

The kinds of soy milk that are primarily made with GMO soybeans or soybean oil do not contain any nutritional benefits, and have a very different taste to soy milk that is produced in South East Asia. There are few Western brands that produce soy milk with whole or organic soybeans. Such brands will usually state on the packaging whether they have been used or not. Reading the ingredients listing on the labels will help to prevent consuming unhealthy soy milk.

The difference between soy in Asian countries and soy in Western countries

In Western nations, soy is actually used in almost every processed product that we consume, such as bread, cakes, fast food and drinks. The kinds of soy that are used in processed foods are generally grouped in the category of bad soy because it is very difficult to find out if the soy used is GMO or not. Aside from this, in the off-chance that the soy that has been used is non-GMO, it will be in a highly processed and filtered down form that will have greatly reduced the amount of nutrients that the soybeans originally had.

Another negative aspect of soy is that it is a very common allergen. Despite this, there are many people who have an undiagnosed allergy to soy and continue to eat it. Some of the symptoms of soy allergies can include diarrhoea, hives, and skin disorders such as eczema. However it is notable that allergies to soy have increased as GMO soy is becoming more and more common. GMO soy products can be found in many processed foods.

In the US most of the soybean crops are used to make soybean oil, which is extracted from soybeans using a chemical solvent called hexane. Using chemicals to extract oil from soybeans leaves a chemical residue on the soybeans, so both the soybean oil and soybean residue is tainted.

Despite soy being such a common allergen, people in Asian countries very rarely have allergies to soy. Allergies to soy are much more common in Western countries. This is likely to be due to the different nature of the soybeans consumed in Western and Asian countries.

Whole soybeans VS Processed soy beans

In comparison with Asian countries, Western nations rarely ever eat whole soybeans. The majority of soy consumed in Western countries comes from highly processed forms of soy that are used in many products. This can come in the form of soybean meal, or isolated soy protein, which is a further processed product of soybean meal. As soybean meal and isolated soy protein are cheap to produce, this accounts for why soy has made its why into so many food products.

However, Asian countries also do not always use whole soybeans. It is common for many well known soy sauce brands not to use whole soybeans in their sauces. Many Asian soy sauce brands use soybean meal to make their soy sauce. However, soybean meal made from real soybeans is still better off than consuming soy sauce made from GMO soybean meal. The most nutritious soy sauce you can consume is one that uses whole soy beans and sea salt, without GMO soybeans.

Unfermented VS fermented soybean products

To add further to the discussion about soybeans, you may want to consider between consuming soybean products and fermented soybean products.

Soybeans also contain phytates, which binds minerals and reduces their ability to be absorbed. However, many vegetables and so-called healthy foods contain phytates, such as nuts, spinach, and cocoa yet this does not stop people from eating them or being proclaimed as healthy foods. Although phytates are present in soybeans, phytates are removed when soybeans are fermented. Once they have been fermented, the soybeans also contain probiotics which aid digestion. Therefore it is much more nutritional to consume fermented soybeans than in any other form.

Aside from the controversial debates about soy listed above, when soy is consumed as a whole product, it has many health benefits.

Isoflavones: the female hormone

All kinds of soybeans, whether processed or natural, contain isoflavones. Isoflavones are a compound that is naturally occurring in many vegetables that can act as estrogen in the body when consumed by humans. Isoflavones are highly beneficial for people, as they counteract the symptoms of menopause in women, strengthen bones, and have been said to reduce the growth of cancerous cells. Isoflavones contain antioxidants and are highly beneficial for health.

Because of the health benefits of isoflavones, isoflavone supplements became popular. However, these isoflavone supplements are too strong and concentrated for the body to process. Isoflavone supplements are also not as effective or beneficial because isoflavones work best when they are natural or eaten with a healthy diet and in conjunction with other nutrients.

Despite the nutritional nature of isoflavones, there is debate about whether they can cause female characteristics in men. There is also some research that suggests isoflavones may cause cancer, so there is lots of contradictory evidence about whether isoflavones are really healthy or not.

Types of soy to avoid

1. easier to digest than unfermented soy

2. Soy products that are not made from whole soybeans

3. Isolated soy protein, which is processed from soybean meal-This soy by-product is highly refined and used in many kinds of processed foods

4. GMO soy beans- GMO food products are very controversial as they are not natural foods

5. Soybean oil – made with chemicals and is therefore unnatural and may damage health

6. Lecithin- a product which is made from soybean oil, and is included as a binder in many processed foods, such as chocolate

7. Supplement forms of soy- soy is most potent when consumed in its whole form, that is, found in food

Fermented soy products: the king of soy

Although soy is already very healthy, fermented soy is the healthiest kind of soy product to consume. Some reasons to choose fermented soy over non-fermented are:

1. easier to digest than unfermented soy

2. increased mineral content

3. no phytates

4. reduces cholesterol

5. do not contain a sugar molecule

6. promotes cardiovascular health

7. enhances intestinal and digestive tract health in some people

8. can protect against cancers

9. increases hyaluronic acid in the body- good for joints and supple skin

Conclusion

In short, the arguments that have been made against soy are numerous, but there are also many counter-arguments as to why you should consider eating soy. Like with many other foods, it is best to be cautious and read the labelling of soy products carefully to ensure that you are getting the best kind of product and not eating something loaded with preservatives and additives.

A good form of evidence is to consider that the various Asian countries that consume soy products on a daily basis yet have no health problems surrounding soy in comparison with people in Western countries. Also keep in mind that any kind of food, not just soy, should be eaten in moderation.

How can you enjoy soy and be healthy?

1. Like many foods, soy is best enjoyed in moderation

2. Try both unfermented and fermented soy products to see which one suits you

3. Avoid processed foods containing processed soy

4. Avoid using oils containing soybeans

5. Read labels to check for 'whole soybeans' and 'organic whole soybeans' or 'non-GMO'

How to read recipes

A note about measurements

1 teaspoon = 5ml (⅛fl oz)

1 tablespoon = 20ml (¾fl oz)

1 cup = 250ml (9fl oz)

All recipes are either vegan or have vegan cooking options. For me, having a food restriction is a challenge. Even though I am not vegan, I really admire vegan people giving up all animal products, and I also feel strong compassion for those who can’t eat certain foods because of allergy or disease.

Those who are vegan, lactose intolerant or who have egg allergies can enjoy all the recipes in this book, and 95 per cent of the recipes are either gluten-free or have a gluten-free option. You will find the following options in the book:

And for vegetarian and non-vegetarian people who might still want to use dairy products and eggs, there are vegetarian suggestions for vegan recipes, to give you a wider range of options. I want this book to be accessible to everybody, so even though I prefer to avoid dairy products when cooking, I still give recipe options with dairy for those who prefer that.

Many of the ingredients used in this book are listed in the glossary, to give you brief explanations of particular food or products you may not have encountered before.

Ingredients — healthy choice

I highly recommend using the unrefined forms of sugar, oil and salt—all ingredients we use on a daily basis. It is critical to know that the refined forms of these ingredients don’t have quality nutrients. This is especially the case for many processed oils in plastic bottles that are normally sold in supermarkets, as they contain trans fat, which is harmful to the body.

But I don’t want you to feel that cooking from this book is too much hassle! So please use what you’re comfortable with and adjust to suit yourself. I understand that everybody is on a different eating journey so please choose ingredients that suit you the best right now, and be mindful about how you can plan and adjust for the future.

My message here is that if you could slowly use a couple of extra dollars to put better quality ingredients in your body and actually give yourself more nutrition, then it will pay off and you will save a lot more in the longer term. It is a fabulous investment for yourself and your family and will enhance how you feel about yourself. Many people start to watch what they eat when they get sick; so consider preventing unnecessary sickness by treating your body and mind with care, instead of being forced to look for a cure later on.

Over the last 10 years, I have made small changes—such as changing first the salt I use, then sugar, then cooking oils—which have transformed and improved my diet, while maintaining the taste. You are what you eat and I really believe that everybody deserves good health. This book will help you to achieve it.

Grating

In my recipes, I use the term 'finely grated' when I want the ingredient to be grated using a Japanese-style grater, a special type of grater that grates to a fine mush. In the photo below, you can see a Western-style grater and the end product—food grated in a long shape. The Japanese grater on the right, which is mainly used for condiments like ginger and daikon (radish) in Japan, grates very finely.

So that you know which grater I have used, I have used the word ‘grate’ for the long-shaped grater, and ‘finely grated’ for the very fine grating. For 'finely grated', use a Japanese grater (available from an Asian grocery or $2 shop), a microplane or the finest side of the stainless steel grater.

Not just traditional Japanese cuisine

There are quite a few Japanese dishes in this book because of my background, but even the Japanese recipes aren't all traditional.

The Japanese dishes you see in other countries are only one aspect of Japanese eating culture. Dishes such as teriyaki chicken, sushi and tempura are not always as healthy as many people think. They often contain a lot of refined sugar, salt and oil. In the old days, when sugar was not refined, it was okay as there were no desserts after the meal. But these days, most restaurants use refined sugar, salt and oil. So having a bento box with tempura and teriyaki in a Japanese restaurant with ice cream for dessert might not make you healthy or lose weight.

Having said all this, it is very true that Japanese cuisine is healthy; the secret is that we don’t just eat what is often served up in Japanese restaurants in other countries. At home, Japanese people eat lots of alkaline food including soy. For example, we eat various types of seaweed, which is highly alkaline. Seaweed is rich in minerals yet has almost zero calories. We also eat fermented soy products, such as miso, natto and soy sauce, which are even better than other soy products. Japanese people also eat smaller portions of many dishes and do not necessarily eat a lot of desserts.

A typical afternoon or morning tea treat would be some dumplings with red beans or soybean powder, with no oil and maybe a small amount of sugar, served in a small portion. This is unlike many Western-style desserts that are full of dairy, white sugar and white flour. Thankfully our culture of desserts in the West is changing now, but it has been unhealthy for quite a while.

In the Japanese recipes in this book, I have reduced the sugar. I have also cut down the amount of oil or used oven methods instead of deep-frying. When sugar is used, I suggest it be unrefined sugar or unrefined natural sweeteners such as agave syrup, which are normally not used in Japanese cuisine wherever a sweet taste was required.

In my cooking I also use cold-pressed oil and sea salt. I do list some vegetables that would not appear in a traditional Japanese dish, because these vegetables are more widely available outside of Japan and contribute beautifully to a real fusion of cultures.