12
Liberty State Park—A Waterfront Tour
This ride travels along riverfront promenades in Manhattan and New Jersey, offering splendid views of the water and the city skyline along the way. It leads to Liberty State Park, south of Jersey City, and returns to Manhattan via tranquil ferry ride. (There’s also a return option via PATH train.) The journey can be adapted to suit distinct levels of cycling comfort. The long version of the route crosses the Hudson River from Manhattan via the George Washington Bridge and returns via ferry to the World Financial Center in Lower Manhattan. This option requires some on-road cycling in New Jersey where traffic is moderate to heavy at times, so considerable road-cycling comfort is required. The short version of the route is a leisurely jaunt that ambles almost exclusively along New Jersey’s riverfront esplanade and greenways in Liberty State Park. Traffic is scarce to nonexistent on the short version of the route, making it accessible to less experienced cyclists, too.
Start: West Harlem Piers, on the Hudson River at West 125th Street (long option) / Hoboken Transit Terminal in New Jersey, at mile 15.4 in the directions (short option)
Length: 28.7-mile loop (long option) / 20.4 miles one-way (truncated long option, ending in Battery Park City in Lower Manhattan) / 5 miles one-way (short option, from Hoboken to Liberty State Park, ending in Lower Manhattan via ferry)
Approximate riding time: 4 hours (long option); 1.5 hours (short option)
Best bike: Road, hybrid, or mountain bike
Terrain and trail surface: The trail is smoothly paved along most of the route. The riverfront route along New Jersey’s waterfront is made of smooth bricks. Part of the riverfront esplanade is a wooden boardwalk. The long version has one steep ascent to reach the George Washington Bridge in Manhattan along the bikeway. It then has one sweeping descent in New Jersey, leading south from the George Washington Bridge along Hudson Terrace and River Road. The short version is flat.
Traffic and hazards: The long version of this route leads along River Road and Port Imperial Boulevard in New Jersey, where traffic is moderate to heavy. Stay alert. Weekend mornings are the best time for finding lighter traffic. Both versions travel along New Jersey’s riverfront esplanade, where bikes and pedestrians share the pathway. Go slowly and yield to pedestrians. Also, keep an eye out for Canada geese, who like to populate portions of the esplanade. To get from the riverfront to Liberty State Park, the ride travels along Grand Street, where traffic is light. Check the Liberty Landing Ferry schedule before taking this route to make sure the ferry is running.
Things to see: George Washington Bridge, New Jersey riverfront, Manhattan riverfront, Manhattan skyline, historic Jersey City, Liberty State Park
Maps: New York City Bike Map, Liberty State Park map accessible at www.libertystatepark.org
Getting there: By public transportation: Take the A, B, C, or D subway to the 125th Street subway station. Bike west along West 125th Street until you reach the waterfront (long option).
To start in Hoboken, take the PATH train to the Hoboken Transit Terminal. Exit the station to the south (short option). GPS coordinates: N40 49.209’ / W73 57.583’ (West Harlem Piers, long option); N40 44.127’ / W74 01.652’ (Hoboken Transit Terminal, short option)
THE RIDE
To commence your journey, head north from the West Harlem Piers through the open fields of Riverbank State Park, with the George Washington Bridge looming large up ahead. A sweeping riverfront journey carries you all the way to the foot of the bridge, where the Little Red Lighthouse sits on an outcropping in the bridge’s shadows. From here, a steep uphill climb leads you across the Henry Hudson Parkway and through Washington Heights. You’ll then access the George Washington Bridge bikeway from the south, along Cabrini Boulevard. Use your lowest gear to access the narrow, two-way ramp (with hairpin turn). On the bridge itself, keep right and stay alert for oncoming and passing cyclists. Enjoy some of the best views in town from the bridge crossing—the Palisades, the city skyline, and the Hudson River. When you reach New Jersey, you’ll be in Fort Lee, where you’ll glide downhill, going south toward the entrance to Palisades Interstate Park. This is where your road route begins along River Road, so stay alert. Running parallel to the riverfront, River Road takes you from Fort Lee to Edgewater, where small homes with a waterfront vibe sit next to sprawling strip malls and high-rise condos, giving the area a patchwork feel. Before reaching the Edgewater golf range, turn left onto Archer Road for an optional riverfront side trip that offers respite from the constant hum of traffic along the main road. The riverfront path hugs the rear of the golf range and numerous shopping complexes. With tranquil benches and piers, the esplanade feels miles removed from the humdrum of business on the other side and offers pleasing views of Manhattan’s Riverside Church across the river. When the esplanade ends, return to River Road via the parking lot of the City Place shopping area to continue south via the main route.
As you continue south, the steep cliffs of the Palisades tower overhead on your right and the river makes intermittent appearances on your left. When the road forks and River Road becomes Port Imperial Boulevard, traffic tends to increase, so remain alert. After 0.5 mile, turn left onto Riverwalk Place, which leads through a shopping complex to the riverfront. The lookout at the end of Riverwalk Place offers grand views of the George Washington Bridge in the north, the Manhattan skyline across the water, and downtown Jersey City in the south. The riverfront esplanade leads all the way south to Jersey City from here, jutting right and left to follow the contours of the land and passing numerous marinas and recreational spots along the way. (There’s an empty lot and shopping complex or two en route, too.) To stay on the riverfront promenade, just hug the river as closely as possible whenever the pathway splits, and yield to pedestrians along the way, especially as you get farther south and foot traffic increases. Take note that the riverfront path was disrupted at a few short spots (about 0.3 mile total) when I last rode it. If this remains the case, you’ll follow on-road segments for brief spurts, before returning to the esplanade as soon as possible.
Heading south, you’ll soon come to the Port Imperial ferry terminal and then brush up against the backside of handsomely maintained, terraced duplex apartments. Although this is a public esplanade, it feels singularly private. Then, after passing ball fields on your right and veering along a forest of chord grass, the esplanade discontinues for a short stretch. Take the sidewalk to your left along Port Imperial Boulevard before resuming the promenade along Harbor Boulevard just south of here. After passing Lincoln Harbor, you’ll circumnavigate Weehawken Cove. On the south side of the cove sits the Hudson Tea Building, a former Lipton tea warehouse that has been transformed into a residential complex. Farther south, after passing Hoboken’s 14th Street ferry terminal, cycle around Maxwell Place Park, a ledge of land that pokes out into the Hudson. At Frank Sinatra Drive, the promenade is interrupted for a short stretch again, so take the road southward until you reach Sinatra Park. The park and drive are two of many Hoboken sites named for the famed singer and actor who was born and grew up in a Hoboken apartment not far from here.
Views of Midtown Manhattan from New Jersey at Riverwalk Place.
Continuing south, a marked bike lane greets you on the esplanade, separating cyclists from walkers. Follow the bike lane past riverfront benches, outdoor cafés, and Pier A Park to reach the Hoboken Transit Terminal. The current transit terminal was built in 1907 and is today a national historic landmark. Dismount your bike, walk through the terminal, and emerge on the other side, where you can hop on your bike once more to continue south on the esplanade. (This is where the short version of this route begins.)
Just south of here at Newport, the esplanade leads inland along Pavonia Avenue and next to the Newport Financial Center, an area bustling with businesspeople and bedecked with sleek office high-rises. A wooden waterfront boardwalk then takes you south alongside more cafes with outdoor seating and riverfront benches. The boardwalk circumnavigates the Harborside Financial Center, a business complex that juts out into the water. On the south side of the complex, you’ll reach Exchange Place, the core of Jersey City’s financial center. Cycle past the pier and continue south toward the Paulus Hook historic district and 9/11 memorial at Grand Street. The benches along the way here are lovely spots to take a break and watch the river flow by before heading to Liberty State Park.
The last part of your New Jersey journey leads you away from the waterfront to reach Liberty State Park along Grand Street. Along the way, cycle past a blend of long-standing, low-slung pubs and houses, and shiny new business high-rises. Enter Liberty State Park via the small bridge at the end of Jersey Avenue and explore the park at your leisure. Along with open fields, picnic spots, bikeways, and playgrounds, you’ll find the former terminal of New Jersey’s Central Railroad, built in 1889, still standing tall along the waterfront. The Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, and downtown Manhattan all seem within arm’s reach from the river promenade, and Jersey City’s Colgate Clock decorates the waterscape to the north. Dating back to 1924, the clock marks the site of the former Colgate-Palmolive & Company.
When you’ve explored enough, catch the ferry at Liberty Landing to return to Manhattan. (Alternately, you could bypass the ferry and instead retrace your route back to the Hoboken Transit Terminal, where you can catch the PATH train back to Manhattan.) The ferry deposits you at the World Financial Center at Battery Park City. From here, either call it quits or return to your starting point via a straight shot north on the Hudson River Greenway.
MILES AND DIRECTIONS
0.0Head north along the bikeway from the West Harlem Piers.
0.1Turn right onto West 135th Street, followed by a quick left to continue along the bikeway, running parallel along the Henry Hudson Parkway overhead.
0.7Follow the bikeway as it veers left and underneath the parkway to continue north along the water.
1.6Veer right to follow the bikeway.
2.4Go under the George Washington Bridge to go uphill.
2.5Cross the wooden railway bridge, duck under the parkway overpass, and turn sharply right, going steeply uphill. The path then makes a sharp left and veers north again. It’s steep.
2.8Use the ramp to cross Henry Hudson Parkway. Go slowly so you can make a quick right upon exiting the ramp.
2.9Turn left onto West 181st Street, going uphill.
3.1Turn right onto Fort Washington Avenue.
3.3Turn right onto West 177th Street.
3.4Turn right onto Cabrini Boulevard.
3.5At the end of Cabrini Boulevard, turn left onto the sidewalk to access the ramp for the George Washington Bridge on your left. The sidewalk and ramp are narrow, so go slowly, and the ramp makes a sharp hairpin turn, which can be tricky to navigate. As you cross the bridge, stick to the right side of the bike pathway and slow down to circumnavigate the bridge pillars. It’s nearly impossible to see oncoming cyclists.
4.8Go through the gate at the end of the bridge. Then turn left onto the sidewalk on the east side of Hudson Terrace, going downhill along the bike route.
5.2At the entrance to Palisades Interstate Park, stop to check for oncoming traffic. Then cross to the west side of Hudson Terrace/River Road to continue south along what becomes River Road.
7.6For a short riverfront side trip, turn left onto Archer Road (option described below). Alternately, and following the subsequent main route description and mileage, continue straight.
9.9When the road forks, stick to the left arm to continue straight. River Road becomes Port Imperial Boulevard.
10.4Turn left onto Riverwalk Place.
10.6At the end of the road, access the circular pavement plaza and take the riverfront promenade heading south to your right.
11.7Cross Carlyle Court and continue along the riverfront on the other side. Residential buildings will be on your right.
12.1Veer to the left of the playground and ball field, continuing along the water.
12.5Turn left to continue along the riverfront route along the road a short stretch.
12.6Turn left to head down to the water again along the bikeway along Harbor Boulevard.
13.6Turn left along the waterfront route along 15th Street, to continue toward the water. Follow the route as it veers along the water along Frank Sinatra Drive.
14.1Follow the waterfront route as it turns left and then right to circumnavigate Maxwell Place Park along the water.
14.3There’s a short interruption in the waterfront greenway, so you have to take the road. Turn left onto Frank Sinatra Drive.
14.6Access the waterfront route on your left, along the east side of Frank Sinatra Drive.
14.7Descend from the promenade once more to continue on Frank Sinatra Drive a short stretch.
14.9Enter Sinatra Park on your left and retake the waterfront route.
15.0Access the painted bike lane along the waterfront route.
15.4When you hit the Hoboken Transit Terminal, dismount your bike and walk it through the transit terminal. This is where the short version of the route begins. Exit on the south side to retake the waterfront route, continuing south. Follow the path as it veers along the water’s edge, snaking left and right along the contours of the land.
15.8Follow the route along 14th Street/Park Lane South a short bit to make a quick left, following the waterfront route.
15.9The waterfront route turns left to go down to the river. When I last took the route, the waterway was interrupted here a short stretch. If that’s the case, continue straight to head south on River Road and veer down to the water as soon as you can.
16.3After passing the Newport ferry terminal, follow the riverfront route to the right.
16.4Follow the route as it goes inland along Pavonia Avenue 1 block.
16.5Retake the Hudson riverfront route to your left. Continue south, following the contours of the land along the riverfront route.
17.4Follow the waterfront route left as it circumnavigates the outcropping.
17.7When you hit the 9/11 Memorial at Exchange Place, turn right onto Grand Street, heading west and away from the water.
18.6Turn left onto Jersey Avenue to go south.
18.9Follow the path across the small bridge.
19.1Cross Audrey Zapp Drive to turn left onto the bikeway along the south side of the drive, heading toward the waterfront.
20.0When you reach the waterfront, explore the park at your leisure. When you are ready to continue, go north along the waterfront and follow the bikeway as it turns left to continue west.
20.4Take the Liberty Landing Ferry across the river to the World Financial Center.
20.4Back in Manhattan, head north along the waterfront along the edge of Battery Park City.
20.7Turn right to continue along the waterfront.
20.9Turn left to take the Hudson River Greenway all the way back to your starting point at the West Harlem Piers.
25.0Enter Riverside Park South and veer right to continue along the bikeway (not along the water’s edge), running directly underneath the Henry Hudson Parkway.
27.0Continue north along the Cherry Walk.
28.7Arrive at your starting point at the West Harlem Piers.
Option Archer Road Riverfront
0.0Turn left onto Archer Road.
0.1At the end of the road, access the riverfront promenade on your right, hugging the edge of the water.
1.2Exit the riverfront promenade by descending through the parking lot and taking the road called Promenade.
1.4Just before hitting River Road at the end of the road, turn left to go through the City Place parking area. (Turning left onto River Road ahead isn’t possible.) Veer left through the parking area in front of the hotel.
1.5 Turn right to exit the parking onto City Place.
1.6Turn left to continue south along River Road. (Add 0.7 mile to your mileage from here southward.)
RIDE INFORMATION
Local Event/Attraction
Liberty State Park is a 1,200-acre oasis of green that is perfect for biking, boating, bird watching, picnicking, crabbing, fishing, and more. You can also join an eco-tour by kayak (pre-registration required), explore the historic railroad terminal of New Jersey’s Central Railroad, learn about the site’s ecology at the Liberty Science Center, or simply take in the singular views of the city skyline, Ellis Island, and Statue of Liberty across the Hudson.
Restrooms
Mile 2.3: There are restrooms in the park building just south of the George Washington Bridge in the park of the Little Red Lighthouse.
Mile 14.9: There are restrooms in the park building at Frank Sinatra Memorial Park.
Mile 19.8: There are restrooms in the park building at Liberty State Park.
Mile 23.0: There are restrooms on your left at Chelsea Piers at West 22nd Street in Manhattan.
Views of Midtown Manhattan from New Jersey near Lincoln Harbor.