17

Brooklyn’s Maritime Moorings

This route leads through Brooklyn Bridge Park to the waterfront neighborhood of Red Hook, surrounded by water on three sides. Bustling with longshoremen and dockworkers from the 1850s to 1950s, the neighborhood today maintains a relaxed, maritime vibe. This leisurely ride affords waterfront views, leads along cobblestone roads, brushes past homes and businesses with seaside decor, and abuts Civil War–era warehouses-turned-artist-galleries. It then offers ample opportunity to enjoy the sculpted piers and parks of Brooklyn Bridge Park.

Start: Fulton Ferry Landing, next to the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory

Length: 7.5-mile loop

Approximate riding time: 1.5 hours

Best bike: Hybrid or mountain bike

Terrain and trail surface: The Brooklyn Bridge Park Greenway is mostly made of brushed gravel. The streets in Red Hook are mostly paved, except Van Dyke and Beard Streets, which are cobbled. The terrain is flat.

Traffic and hazards: Much of this ride travels along a car-free greenway. The on-road portions run along bike lanes on roads with light traffic. The cobblestone streets can be tricky, though not impossible, to navigate with a road bike with slim tires. Wider tires will serve you well. Along Clinton Street, stay alert as you cross Hamilton Avenue underneath the BQE. The bikeway switches from the right to left side of the road.

Things to see: Fulton Ferry Landing, Brooklyn Bridge Park, Valentino Pier, Red Hook, Brooklyn Waterfront Artists Coalition, Waterfront Museum, Empire Fulton Ferry State Park

Maps: New York City Bike Map, Brooklyn Bridge Park Interactive Map: brooklynbridgepark.org; Southwest Brooklyn Industrial Development Corp. Red Hook Visitor’s Guide: sbidc.org

Getting there: By public transportation: Take the F subway to the York Street stop. Go west on York Street 0.3 mile. Turn left onto Front Street for 0.1 mile. Turn right onto Old Fulton Street. Fulton Ferry Landing is just ahead. Alternately, take the A or C subway to the High Street station. Exit onto Cadman Plaza. Bike north (downhill) along Old Fulton Street to Fulton Ferry Landing. GPS coordinates: N40 42.180’ / W73 59.669’

THE RIDE

Having served as a ferry landing site as early as 1642, Fulton Ferry Landing has a centuries-long history. Today, a former fireboat building on the landing houses the popular Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, and an offshore barge hosts chamber-music concerts. It’s also a main gateway to Brooklyn Bridge Park. To begin your journey, catch the Brooklyn Bridge Park Greenway southward, keeping to the left side of the greenway. (The right side is for pedestrians.) This leads alongside the open lawns and sculpted gardens of Pier 1 on your right, with occasional views of the East River just beyond. You’ll pass Squibb Park Bridge, a floating pedestrian ramp to Brooklyn Heights and then head past Pier 2, 3, and 4, still under development when last I biked it. Pier 5’s Picnic Peninsula and sports fields greet you farther south, as does Pier 6, where the greenway leads alongside beach volleyball courts and the Governors Island ferry launch pad. Hug the edge of the playgrounds on your left to round the bend and exit Brooklyn Bridge Park.

The Columbia Street bikeway up ahead then brings you past an amalgam of old and new establishments—from antiques shops to trendy ethnic restaurants to dimly lit dive bars. On your right, industrial cargo containers line the way, and the city skyline and Lady Liberty are visible in the distance. Imlay Street then takes you past warehouses and artist workshops and the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal. Up ahead, Van Brunt Street, the neighborhood’s main drag, is lined with spots that evoke the neighborhood’s maritime past—Bait and Tackle, Hope and Anchor, Dry Dock Wine and Spirits. At the end of cobbled Van Dyke Street, you’ll reach Valentino Park, where a pier affords unique views of Governors Island, the Statue of Liberty, and the New Jersey shore. The stately redbrick warehouses that abut the park served the shipping industry here in the nineteenth century.

Bike Shops

Dog Day Cyclery: 115 Van Brunt St.; (347) 799-2739

This small neighborhood bike shop provides full-service repairs, tune-ups, and sells a select selection of bike accessories.

Recycle-A-Bicycle: 35 Pearl St. (between Plymouth Street and John Street); (718) 858-2972

This Dumbo bike shop is dedicated to sustainable cycling practices. It refurbishes donated bikes (which are for sale) and educates community members through cycling events and classes—youth programs, adult education, and volunteer opportunities abound.

Continuing onward to Pier 41, you’ll find Civil War–era warehouses that today house an array of merchants—from Steve’s Famous Key Lime Pies (try one—they’re famous for a reason) to a glassworks shop. For a visit to the Waterfront Museum, housed on a barge from 1914, lock your bike and head down the narrow Red Hook Waterfront Garden pathway. Then, continuing en route along cobbled Van Dyke and Beard Streets, you’ll reach another idiosyncratic waterfront spot at the end of Van Brunt Street. The Brooklyn Waterfront Artists Coalition occupies 25,000 square feet of artist galleries in the Civil War–era warehouses on your left, and a waterfront esplanade to the right leads past an old trolley car to a waterfront cafe (operated by Fairway Market) and sculpted gardens. It’s a lovely spot for a break. Dismount and walk your bike to explore. (Biking prohibited.)

To proceed, head eastward toward the hulking Ikea store and turn right onto Erie Basin Park esplanade just before getting there. Bike along this waterfront path, snaking past a water taxi stop, waterside lounge chairs, manicured gardens, and sculpted green spots. You’ll then follow the bike route onto Columbia Street, leading toward the Red Hook playing fields on your right. The spot attracts New Yorkers from near and far on summer weekends with an array of street food vendors—El Salvadoran, Columbian, Guatemalan, and more (try some).

Continuing en route, you’ll go north on Clinton Street. Use caution as you pass underneath the BQE, where the bike lane swings to the left side of the road. This soon brings you back to the Brooklyn Bridge Greenway, which you’ll follow all the way back to Fulton Ferry Landing. Before ending your journey, head north to check out Empire Fulton Ferry Park, just north of the Brooklyn Bridge. In the park you’ll find open lawns, waterfront picnic spots, and Jane’s Carousel, a historic carousel from 1922 that now lives in a Jean Nouvel–designed glass pavilion. Return to your starting point from here.

Miles and Directions

0.0Bike south along the Brooklyn Bridge Park Greenway.

0.7Hug the edge of the playground on your left to follow the greenway as it turns left just ahead.

1.4At Degraw Street, turn right to continue on the bikeway.

1.5Turn left onto Van Brunt Street.

1.7Turn right onto Summit Street.

1.8Turn left onto Imlay Street.

2.2Turn left onto Pioneer Street, followed by a right onto Van Brunt Street.

2.5Turn right onto Van Dyke Street.

2.7 Enter Valentino Park to your right and walk your bike onto the pier for bay views. (Biking prohibited.) To continue, exit the park onto Van Dyke Street and return eastward.

2.8Turn right to access Pier 41 (follow the signs to Steve’s Authentic Key Lime Pie). Explore the pier esplanade to the left of Steve’s or lock up your bike to visit the Waterfront Museum, via the Waterfront Garden pathway. To continue en route, return to Van Dyke Street, turning right to go east. Make a quick right onto Conover Street.

2.9Turn left onto Beard Street.

3.0Turn right onto Van Brunt Street. Enter the pier area straight ahead. Dismount your bike to explore. (Biking prohibited.) To continue, go north on Van Brunt Street.

3.3Turn right onto Beard Street.

3.5Turn right before Ikea to access the Erie Basin Park esplanade. Follow the esplanade as it veers left and behind Ikea along the water.

4.0Exit Erie Basin Park and turn left onto Columbia Street (unmarked).

4.3Turn right onto Bay Street.

4.6Turn left onto Clinton Street.

4.9 Cross Hamilton Avenue (underneath the expressway) to continue along Clinton Street. It veers left and immediately right. Use caution and look behind you before following the bike lane from the right to left side of the road.

5.7Turn left onto Kane Street.

6.1Cross Columbia Street to mount the bikeway (sidewalk) on the western side of the street. Turn right, heading north along bikeway. Follow the bikeway back to Brooklyn Bridge Park.

7.2Arriving back at Fulton Ferry Landing, veer right to follow the bikeway onto Old Fulton Street.

7.3Turn left onto Front Street, followed by a quick left onto Old Dock Street. Enter Empire Fulton Ferry Park. Dismount your bike and explore on foot. To continue, exit the park via Old Dock Street for a quick right onto Water Street.

7.5 Arrive at your starting point.

RIDE INFORMATION

Local Events/Attractions

Brooklyn Waterfront Artists Coalition: 25,000 square feet of artist space in a Civil War–era warehouse. 499 Van Brunt St.; (718) 596-2506; bwac.org

Steve’s Authentic Key Lime Pie: One of Red Hook’s culinary claims to fame comes in single-serving size or regular pie size. 204 Van Dyke St.; stevesauthentic.com

Waterfront Museum: Located on a century-old barge, the museum hosts exhibits that help highlight the city’s maritime history. 290 Conover St.; (718) 624-4719, ext. 11; www.waterfrontmuseum.org

Restrooms

Start/end: Restrooms are located in the park building next to the start of the Brooklyn Bridge Park Greenway.

Mile 3.1: There are restrooms at Fairway Market at the end of Van Brunt Street.