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Cultures and Coasts—Historic Ocean Parkway to Coney Island
This ride journeys along the nation’s oldest bike path, leading you from the greens of Prospect Park to the blues of the Atlantic Ocean at Coney Island. The protected greenway passes through the diverse neighborhoods of Kensington, Midwood, and Gravesend, where you’re as likely to see a hijab as a tichel. The beach boardwalk then leads you past Coney Island’s century-old rides and Brighton Beach’s Little Odessa.
Start: The southwestern exit/entrance to Prospect Park at Park Circle
Length: 18.7-mile loop (partial)
Approximate riding time: 2.5 hours
Best bike: Hybrid, road, or mountain bike
Terrain and trail surface: The trail is paved throughout except for the boardwalk along Coney Island peninsula. The 3.3-mile boardwalk is made of wooden planks. The terrain is flat.
Traffic and hazards: The Ocean Parkway Greenway crosses multiple heavily trafficked intersections. Stay alert, especially for vehicles turning right. Although traffic lights govern these crossings, southbound traffic turning right has the go at the same time as you (when you are going straight)—drivers are often oblivious to cyclists to their right. The same is true for northbound traffic turning left. Along Ocean Parkway Greenway, also stay alert for pedestrians. Although a metal rail separates the pedestrian path from the bike path, people often cross the divide, so be prepared to stop. Slow down toward the southern end of this bike path (especially south of Avenue T) where tree roots protrude through the pavement. The on-road stretch along Neptune Avenue has moderate traffic. Although you’ll be on an on-road bike lane, stay especially alert on this stretch.
Things to see: Ocean Parkway Greenway, Wonder Wheel, Cyclone, Nathan’s Famous, Brooklyn Cyclones, Coney Island, New York Aquarium, Brighton Beach, Manhattan Beach Park, Coney Island Museum
Map: New York City Bike Map
Getting there: By public transportation: Take the F or G subway to the Fort Hamilton Parkway stop. Exit the station and go north half a block on Prospect Avenue. Turn right onto Greenwood Avenue and go 3 blocks (about 500 feet). Turn right onto Prospect Park Southwest. Park Circle lies just ahead. GPS coordinates: N40 39.093’ / W73 58.301’
THE RIDE
Ocean Parkway carries historic weight when it comes to cycling culture in this country. Stretching 5 miles from the tranquil greens of Prospect Park to the excitement of Coney Island, Ocean Parkway boasts the country’s first bike path, inaugurated in 1894. The parkway itself was designed years earlier, in 1866, by the acclaimed landscape architects Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux (who were also responsible for Brooklyn’s own Prospect Park). They intended the Parkway to resemble grand European boulevards and designated different “lanes” for different types of travel. The central lanes were for horse carriages out for leisurely drives. These lanes were flanked by tree-lined pedestrian promenades, which were in turn framed by service roads for local traffic.
In 1894, after concerted efforts by cyclists and sports buffs, the western pedestrian promenade was split into two adjoining lanes to give bikers their own 5-mile pathway linking park to beach. The speed limit for cyclists was initially set at 12 miles per hour to prevent the most enthusiastic bikers from wreaking havoc en route. On inauguration day, 10,000 cyclists, along with bike police, took to what was then a crushed limestone path to celebrate this newfound reprieve from the long-standing equestrian hazards on the corridor. (Horse carriages and horse droppings had until then reportedly been cause for cyclist complaint.)
Today equestrianism is no longer a serious obstacle. You might come across a small group of horses—and riders—from nearby Kensington Stables as you navigate around Park Circle, but the remainder of your trip should be equine-free. Follow the bikeway counterclockwise around Park Circle, crossing the Fort Hamilton Parkway access roads, and then turning right, following the bikeway along the northern edge of Ocean Parkway. The bikeway then mounts the sidewalk to continue south. You’ll cross Church Avenue up ahead to then swivel right and cross Ocean Parkway, catching the greenway along the southbound median on the other side, where you’ll go south. Keep to the left of the hip-high divider.
On the journey southward, you’ll cycle through a wide array of cultures—Orthodox Jewish families out for a stroll; Eastern European men engrossed in backgammon; Pakistani women chatting under the trees. The buildings en route are just as varied—synagogues, single-family houses, pre-war brick apartment buildings, yeshivas, luxury high-rises, and more. You’ll first cycle through Kensington, where pre-war brick apartment buildings are the norm. South of Avenue I you’ll then enter Midwood, a predominantly Jewish, and increasingly Orthodox, neighborhood. Washington Cemetery, Brooklyn’s largest Jewish graveyard, extends westward up ahead just south of Avenue J. Then, after crossing Kings Highway, you’ll enter Gravesend, one of the original six towns of Brooklyn. Stay alert especially south of Avenue T, where tree roots protrude the pavement in spots.
The New York Aquarium mural, along the Coney Island boardwalk.
After crossing Shore Parkway and Coney Island Creek, you’re greeted by an unmistakable beach-town vibe. The creek once separated Coney Island—a true island at the time—completely from the mainland, but landfills have since made it a peninsula. At its southern end the greenway then descends you onto Surf Avenue, which leads westward toward Coney Island’s amusement parks where the iconic Wonder Wheel and Cyclone roller coaster stand tall up ahead. Just opposite the Stillwell Avenue subway terminal sits another Coney Island landmark: Nathan’s Famous, New York’s most acclaimed hot dog eatery. Then, after passing the Brooklyn Cyclones’ minor league baseball stadium up ahead, turn left onto West 21st Street to reach the boardwalk.
As you access the boardwalk, take note that boardwalk cycling is permitted from 5 to 10 a.m. only. Then, heading west along the boardwalk, you’ll pass several large-scale public housing projects before reaching the gated community of Sea Gate at its western end. You’ll here make a U-turn to return eastward along the boardwalk. Check out the fishing pier on your left, where you can mingle with weatherworn fisherpersons and gaze out to cargo ships that dot the horizon. You’ll pass Coney’s amusement parks, with countless beachfront food stalls, arcades, and souvenir shops lining the way. In summer, it can get rambunctious, but it’s a great place to satisfy a childhood craving for Italian ice or caramel corn. For a more tranquil beach-side experience, continue eastward, past the vibrant sea-themed mural along the New York Aquarium, to Brighton Beach, where the crowds are less crazed. Often called “Little Odessa” for the many residents from the Ukranian town of that name, you’ll find signs of their culture throughout the neighborhood. Take a quick detour down Brighton 2nd Street to Brighton Beach Boulevard, where you can stock up on fresh fruit and savory piroshky at one of innumerable food stalls. Then return to the boardwalk for a break on one of the beachside benches.
To proceed en route, continue your journey eastward until you reach the end of the boardwalk. Here, a short on-road stretch brings you to Manhattan Beach Park, originally built as an exclusive resort for wealthy beach lovers. To explore, dismount and walk your bike. (Biking prohibited.) Glancing seaward from the park’s shore, you can spot Breezy Point, the western tip of Queens, on Rockaway Peninsula. Also visible in the distance is the Marine Parkway-Gil Hodges Memorial Bridge, a vertical lift bridge that opened in 1937 to provide easy access from Brooklyn to the Rockaways.
Continuing en route, you’ll cycle along Coney Island peninsula’s northern shore at Sheepshead Bay, where ship masts clang gently offshore. Then, stay especially alert going westward along Neptune Avenue. The road gets quite busy at times, and cars pay cyclists little heed. When you reach Ocean Parkway, you’ll retrace your route northward to your starting point.
Kings Highway
In August of 1776, during the Revolutionary War, British troops marched to battle—the Battle of Brooklyn—along Kings Highway, eventually leading to the retreat of the Continental Army at Brooklyn Heights.
MILES AND DIRECTIONS
0.0 Go counterclockwise around Park Circle along the bike path.
0.1 After crossing Fort Hamilton Parkway, turn right, following the bikeway onto Ocean Parkway. After about 250 feet, mount the sidewalk to your right to continue along the bikeway.
0.7 Traverse Church Avenue to swivel right and use the pedestrian signal to reach the west side of Ocean Parkway. Make a quick left on the other side onto the greenway along the southbound median of Ocean Parkway.
5.6 Dismount the sidewalk to your right and turn right (west) to continue onto Surf Avenue.
6.7 Turn left onto West 21st Street. Access the boardwalk ahead. Biking on the boardwalk is only permitted from 5 to 10 a.m. Turn right to explore the western end of the boardwalk.
7.6 At the end of the boardwalk, make a U-turn to return eastward.
8.6The pier is on your right.
9.9Optional: Turn left onto Brighton 2nd Street to purchase snacks on Brighton Beach Boulevard. Then return to the boardwalk to enjoy before continuing east.
10.3 At the end of the boardwalk, turn left onto Brighton 14th Street. Veer quickly right to continue onto Brighton 15th Street.
10.5Turn right onto Brighton Beach Avenue, followed by a quick right onto Corbin Place, and a quick left onto Oriental Boulevard.
11.1Manhattan Beach Park is on your right. Turn right to enter the park and dismount your bike to explore. (Biking prohibited.) To continue en route, return to Oriental Boulevard, continuing eastward.
11.6Turn left onto Oxford Street.
11.7 Turn left onto Shore Boulevard.
12.6Turn right onto West End Avenue, followed by a quick left onto Neptune Avenue.
13.4 Cross Ocean Parkway to reach the western side of the parkway. Turn right (north) onto the greenway, retracing your route northward.
18.0Turn right at Church Avenue to cross Ocean Parkway. Then swivel left to cross Church Avenue. Continue northward along the greenway along the left side of the road.
18.5 Bike counterclockwise around Park Circle.
18.7 Arrive at your starting point.
RIDE INFORMATION
Local Events/Attractions
Coney Island Museum: The museum exhibits a quirky mixture of Coney Island memorabilia. 1208 Surf Ave.; (718) 372-5159; www.coneyisland.com/programs/coney-island-museum
Deno’s Wonder Wheel Amusement Park: Home of the nearly century-old Wonder Wheel. 3059 W. 12th St.; (718) 372-2592; www.wonderwheel.com
Luna Park NYC: Home to the landmarked Cyclone roller coaster. 1000 Surf Ave.; (718) 373-5862; www.lunaparknyc.com
New York Aquarium: Home to, among others, sea otters, walrus, penguins, and shark. Surf Avenue and West 8th Street; www.nyaquarium.com
Restaurant
Nathan’s Famous: Historic hot dogs, crunchy corn dogs, famous fries; outdoor seating; located a block from the beach, with a stall directly on the boardwalk, too. 1310 Surf Ave. (at Stillwell Avenue), Coney Island; www.nathansfamous.com
Restrooms
Start/end: There are restrooms at the Tennis House on Parkside Avenue. Go clockwise around the traffic circle and exit to your left onto Parkside Avenue. Go 440 feet and the Tennis House will be on your right.
Mile 8.6/9.9: Comfort stations along the boardwalk have restrooms.