Appendixes

Glossary

Aiko. Brand name for precision cylinder seed beads made by the Japanese manufacturer Toho.

Anneal. To heat glass or metal to remove internal stress. Annealing metal wire makes it soft and pliable. Annealing glass makes it tougher and more break-resistant.

Asymmetrical pattern. A pattern that is not the same on either side of a central line. In beading, the term is often used to describe the left and right sides of a necklace or bracelet.

Aurora borealis (AB). A permanent bead treatment or finish that gives a rainbow effect. May be applied to the outside of a bead or to the inside of a transparent bead.

Backstitch. A hand-sewing or bead embroidery stitch formed by taking a short stitch backward followed by a longer stitch forward. Often used to outline a design.

Ball-peen hammer. A hammer with a rounded face on one side of the head and a flat face on the other. Used for shaping, flattening, and hardening wire and other metals.

Bead board. An inexpensive design tool used for laying out beads to create a design, usually before stringing.

Bead cap. A curved cap, usually made of metal, used to frame or embellish a stone or glass bead in a jewelry design.

Bead cone. A cone-shaped jewelry finding, usually metal and generally used in pairs to hide the join at each end of a necklace where several strands of beads come together.

Bead reamer. Hand tool, also called a broach, used to ream out, or enlarge, bead holes. Works best on softer bead materials.

Bead release. Thick claylike liquid used to coat a steel mandrel or rod before a lampworked bead is formed around the rod. Prevents hot glass from sticking to the metal.

Bead soup. A term used to describe a mix of several types and/or colors of beads that will be used randomly in a design.

Bead tip. Small metal finding used to finish ends of a jewelry piece strung on thread. The cup of a bead tip holds the knotted thread end, and the metal arm is bent to attach the strand to the clasp.

Beadwork. The practice of connecting beads to one another or to fabric, using wire or a needle and thread. Term includes stringing, weaving, crochet, knitting, and embroidery done with beads.

Box clasp. A clasp or jewelry fastener constructed like a small box, usually with a metal tongue that slides into the box and stays securely closed until it is released.

Button-and-loop closure. A clasp or jewelry closure made by sewing or forming a button or ball at one end of the jewelry piece and a correctly sized loop of beads at the other. Loop fits over ball securely.

Cabochon (cab). A stone or glass piece without a hole, having a flat back and a curved or domed top, generally without facets. Usually oval or round in shape; often used in jewelry making.

Ceylon. Pearlized or luster coating on an opalescent bead.

Chain mail. A type of wirework in which jump rings are joined together in patterns to create a mesh fabric.

Charlotte (1X). A seed bead that has a single facet ground into its surface to add sparkle.

Chevron. A design that resembles an inverted “V.” Used on a traditional style of Venetian beads, where Vs are usually positioned around each end of the bead, near the holes.

Clasp. A fastener, usually metal, used to join the ends of a necklace or bracelet.

Cloisonné. An ancient technique in which enamel (powdered glass) is melted onto a metal base. The base is often divided into sections by thin metal strips to create designs.

Coil crimp end. A wire coil used to finish the end of leather or fabric cording and join it to a clasp or other finding.

Coin. A flat bead shape that resembles a coin. The bead hole may be positioned vertically through the disk or pierced through the top of the disk.

Combed designs. A type of lampwork design often found on traditional Venetian beads, in which a pick or other tool is dragged across hot glass stripes to create a feathered effect.

Couch/couching. A bead embroidery stitch often used for outlining, which can be executed using either one or two needles and threads.

Crocheted rope. A beaded rope formed by stringing beads on thread, often in patterns, then crocheting them in a spiral path, forming a tube.

Culling. Sorting through beads to separate thin, thick, or misshapen beads from other beads before beginning beadwork. Gives work a smoother, more uniform appearance.

Cushion bead. An extra bead placed at each end of a strung piece, after the crimp, to protect the beading wire from the sharp edges of the crimp tube.

Cylinder crimp. Small metal tube used for crimping and securing jewelry designs strung on flexible beading wire.

Dead-soft. Refers to jewelry wire that has been annealed or otherwise treated so it is soft, pliable, and easily bent.

Embroidery. Decorating fabric with designs using a needle and thread or yarn. Beads and sequins may be incorporated into the designs.

Embroidery hoop. A double frame of wood or metal used to stretch and hold fabric taut during embroidery or other handwork.

Eye beads. Ancient handmade bead designs made of layered dots of color that resemble an eye. Traditionally used for protection, especially for babies, these designs are still popular among modern lampwork artists.

Eyepin. A short length of wire with an eye or loop at one end, used for hanging a bead or other small object.

Felted beads. Small spheres made of felted wool that can be strung, embroidered with smaller beads, and worn in jewelry designs or used for embellishment.

Fiber or ribbon beads. Beads made from wrapped or twisted yarn, braid, or ribbon and secured with stitching or glue. Can be strung in jewelry designs or used for embellishment.

Figure-eight clasp. Simple metal jewelry closure made from wire shaped into a nearly closed letter “S,” or a slightly open number “8.” Used with a ring on each end.

Filigree. Metalwork with delicate, open designs that can resemble lace.

Fire-polished (FP). Type of faceted glass bead made in the Czech Republic. After being machine-faceted, beads are heated in a hot oven to glaze the edges.

Fishhook. Type of oval clasp or jewelry closure with a hook on one end that resembles a fishhook.

Flamework. Also called lampwork, a method of wrapping and layering melted glass to form individual beads, using a torch with a flame of fuel, such as propane or natural gas, plus pure oxygen to create a hotter flame.

Focal bead. Larger bead often made of glass, stone, woven beadwork, or metal, used at the center or focal point of a necklace or bracelet design.

French coil. Fine, coiled wire that’s cut into short lengths and used to protect the thread or other stringing material where it passes through the clasp or ring.

French ear wire. J-shaped wire finding used in making earrings for pierced ears.

French-beaded flowers. Method of stringing seed beads on wire and shaping the wire to form petals, flowers, leaves, and other naturalized forms.

Galvanized. Electroplated metal or other coating used as a finish on the outside of a bead.

Gross (GR). A group of 12 dozen or 144 pieces.

Gunmetal. Dark gray or nearly black finish often used on base metal findings.

Half-round. Refers to a shape of wire that is semicircular when viewed in cross-section.

Hank. A unit of measurement for Czech seed beads on strands. Usually includes 12 strands, but a hank of special, larger, or expensive beads may contain 10 strands or even 6.

Headpin. A short length of wire with a flat head, ball, or other decorative shape at one end to prevent beads from falling off.

Hook-and-eye clasp. A simple clasp or jewelry closure, usually made of wire or other metal, that has a hook at one end and a loop or eye at the other.

Iris. An iridescent metallic coating used as a finish on glass beads.

Jump ring. A small round or oval loop of wire that’s used for joining jewelry clasps and other components together.

Knot cup. See Bead tip.

Lampwork. See Flamework.

Lariat. A longer necklace style, often without a clasp, that is typically worn wrapped around the neck with the ends looped over one another, or with one end passed through a loop on the other end.

Lever-back. A style of metal earring finding for pierced ears often made of sterling silver or gold-filled, with a springloaded back that folds open and closes securely.

Lobster claw. A type of simple metal clasp with a springloaded arm that opens and shuts securely.

Loom weaving. Creating fabric using warp threads strung on a loom, and passing alternately through them with weft threads. When beads are strung on the weft threads, beaded fabric is created. One bead sits between each warp thread, and the second pass of the needle locks each bead in place.

Loomwork. Weaving on a loom, which can include seed beads strung on the warp threads and woven into the fabric, as described above.

Luster/lustre. A high-gloss bead finish.

Mandrel. A metal object or rod used to shape a piece. Often used in wirework and to create the hole in a lampworked bead.

Mass (MA). A group of 1,200 pieces. Often used in wholesale packaging of Czech glass beads.

Memory wire. Steel wire that has been hardened so it has a “memory” or retains its shape. Available in loops of various diameters for jewelry making.

Micro-crimps. Tiny 1mm crimps used to hold beads in place in floating or illusion jewelry designs.

Mille. A group of 1,000 pieces; from the Latin word for the number 1,000.

Nacre. The iridescent inner layer of certain mollusk shells. When built up in layers around a tiny object or irritant, nacre forms a pearl.

Niobium. A rare gray metal sometimes used in jewelry making. Can be heated and anodized to create a range of bright colors. Desirable for those allergic to other metals.

Pewter. Metal alloy of tin that can include other metals such as antimony, copper, and lead.

Picots. A series of decorative loops along the edge of a fabric or ribbon, which can be woven or embroidered with thread or beads.

Planish. To create a smooth or shaped finish on metal by striking it lightly with a hammer.

Polymer clay. A malleable material that can be shaped into beads, pendants, and other decorative objects, and then heated in an oven to cure and harden it.

Pounding block/bench block. A small, smooth block of steel that supports wire and other metalwork during hammering, flattening, and shaping.

Puntil (punty). A metal or glass rod used during glassmaking for supporting and manipulating hot glass.

Rocaille. Refers to the Rococo period (French, eighteenth century). Often used to describe silver-lined transparent seed beads.

Sharps. General sewing needles with a sharp point, medium length, and relatively narrow eye that are often used for beading.

Single-crochet (SC). A basic crochet stitch formed by holding the working loop on the hook, inserting the hook into the next loop or stitch, wrapping the yarn over the hook, pulling a loop through it, wrapping yarn over the hook again, and pulling it through both loops on the hook. In the UK, this stitch is called a double-crochet.

Sliding tube clasp. A metal clasp or jewelry closure that consists of two tubes, one that slides inside the other, with a pressure fit. Often designed as a multistrand clasp with two to six rings on each side, or with a bar on each side.

Slipknot. A simple knot formed by making a loop, passing the top end of the loop behind it, and pulling it through to form another loop. The size of the second loop can be adjusted by pulling on the end of the cord or thread.

Slipstitch. A basic crochet stitch formed by holding the working loop on the hook, inserting the hook into the next loop or stitch, wrapping the yarn over the hook, and pulling a loop through both loops on the hook.

Snap clasp. A type of metal clasp or jewelry closure with a ring on one end and a ball protrusion on the other. The ring is placed over the ball and snapped into place, held by a patented, spring-loaded inner ring. Also called a ball-and-socket or a trailer-hitch clasp.

Spacers. Beads that are wider than they are tall from hole to hole, so they work well when strung between larger beads, adding narrow slices of color and pattern.

Split ring. A small, round or oval wire loop that’s formed from two wraps of thin wire, like a tiny key ring. Used for joining jewelry clasps and other components together securely.

Split ring pliers. A special tool designed to hold a split ring securely open while a ring or other jewelry component is inserted into it.

Spring-ring. A simple jewelry clasp that is opened by pushing back on a small, spring-loaded lever that slides along the circle and is generally used with a jump ring or split ring. When the lever is released, the opening springs shut.

Temper. Refers to the relative hardness and strength of metal. In glasswork, refers to a heat treatment that toughens the glass by reducing internal stress.

Tigertail. Generic name for inexpensive beading wire made from three to seven strands of steel.

Toggle. A jewelry clasp, usually made of metal but also can be beaded, that consists of a ring or other open shape at one end and a strong post at the other. The clasp is fastened by inserting the post through the ring.

Toho. Japanese seed bead manufacturer.

Troy weight. An ancient system of measurement. In the present day, the troy ounce is still used in the pricing of precious metals, and is about 10 percent heavier than the standard avoirdupois ounce.

Tube crimps. See Cylinder crimp.

Tumbler. Piece of electric equipment used for polishing and hardening metal and smoothing stone.

Vermeil. Sterling silver plated with gold.

Warp. The vertical threads in a woven fabric, which are the threads strung on the loom.

Weft. The horizontal threads in a woven fabric, which are woven back and forth across the warp. In bead weaving, the beads are strung on the weft thread.

Wire guard/wire protector. A small metal horseshoe-shaped finding strung at each end of a piece of jewelry where the beading wire passes through the clasp. Protects the wire from wear and ensures that the loop is the correct size.

Zipping up. Slang term that refers to the process of joining the two ends of a strip or section of peyote stitch using needle and thread. The “up-beads” of one end fit into the down spaces of the other, like a zipper.

Resources

BEADING BOOKS

There are thousands of beading books to choose from today. Learn more about beading by exploring topics that interest you.

All-Around Useful Books

Bateman, Sharon. Findings & Finishings: A Beadwork How-To Book. Interweave Press, 2003.

Blakelock, Virginia L. Those Bad, Bad Beads. Virginia L. Blakelock, 1988.

Dairy Barn Cultural Arts Center. The Best in Contemporary Beadwork: Bead International 2002. Dairy Barn Cultural Arts Center, 2002.

Deeb, Margie. The Beader’s Guide to Color. Watson-Guptill Publications, 2004.

Dubin, Lois Sherr. The History of Beads: From 30,000 B.C. to the Present. Harry N. Abrams, 2004.

Durant, Judith and Jean Campbell. The New! Beader’s Companion. Interweave Press, 2005.

Fischer, Sandi (Ruby). Beading with Ruby. Ruby’s Jewelry Design & Beadwork, 2002.

Lark Books, eds. 500 Beaded Objects: New Dimensions in Contemporary Beadwork. Lark Books, 2004.

Mann, Elise. The Bead Directory: The Complete Guide to Choosing and Using More Than 600 Beautiful Beads. Interweave Press, 2006.

Samejima, Takako. Bead Fantasies: Beautiful, Easy-to-Make Jewelry. Japan Publications Trading, 2003.

———. Bead Fantasies II: More Beautiful, Easy-to-Make Jewelry. Japan Publications Trading, 2005.

———. Bead Fantasies III: Still More Beautiful, Easy-to-Make Jewelry. Japan Publications Trading, 2006.

———. Bead Fantasies IV: The Ultimate Collection of Beautiful, Easy-to-Make Jewelry. Japan Publications Trading, 2006.

Stringing

Campbell, Jean. Getting Started Stringing Beads. Interweave Press, 2005.

Hogsett, Jamie. Stringing Style: 50+ Fresh Bead Designs for Jewelry. Interweave Press, 2006.

Off-Loom Weaving

Barsky, Galina, and Varvara Konstantinov. Netting All the Way. Jewelry by Varvara, 2004.

Benson, Ann. Classic Bead-weaving: New Needle Techniques & Original Designs. Sterling Publishing, 2004.

———. The New Bead-weaving: Great Projects with Innovative Materials. Sterling Publishing, 2005.

Campbell, Jean. The Art of Beaded Beads: Exploring Design, Color & Technique. Lark Books, 2006.

Campbell, Jean, ed. Beadwork Creates Beaded Bags: 30 Designs. Interweave Press, 2003.

———. Beadwork Creates Beaded Rings: 30 Designs. Interweave Press, 2004.

———. Beadwork Creates Bracelets: 30 Designs. Interweave Press, 2002.

———. Beadwork Creates Earrings: 30 Designs. Interweave Press, 2005.

———. Beadwork Creates Necklaces: 30 Designs. Interweave Press, 2002.

Campbell-Harding, Valerie. Beaded Tassels, Braids & Fringes. Sterling Publishing, 2001.

Cook, Jeannette, and Vicki Star. Beading with Peyote Stitch: A Beadwork How-To Book. Interweave Press, 2000.

Cypher, Carol Huber. Mastering Beadwork: A Comprehensive Guide to Off-Loom Techniques. Interweave Press, 2007.

Davis, Jane. A Beader’s Reference. Krause Publications, 2003.

Elbe, Barbara. Forever in Beads: Memories & Nature Transformed into Beads. BEE Publishing, 2002.

Fitzgerald, Diane. The Beaded Garden: Creating Flowers with Beads and Thread. Interweave Press, 2005.

———. Beading with Brick Stitch. Interweave Press, 2001.

———. More Zulu Beadwork. Beautiful Beads Press, 1999.

———. Netted Beadwork: A Beadwork How-To Book. Interweave Press, 2003.

———. Zulu-Inspired Beadwork: Weaving Techniques and Projects. Interweave Press, 2007.

Hector, Valerie. The Art of Beadwork: Historic Inspiration, Contemporary Design. Watson-Guptill Publications, 2005.

Konstantinov, Varvara. Coraling Technique: Step-by-Step Instructions for Making Ten Original Design Necklaces, Bracelets and Earrings in the Most Popular Russian Beading Technique. Jewelry by Varvara, 2003.

Loh-Kupser, Amy. Patterns for the Beadfuddled Beader, Volume 1: Peyote Beading Patterns; also Volumes 2, 3, and 4. Amy Loh-Kupser, 2000–2001.

Prussing, Christine. Beading with Right-Angle Weave: A Beadwork How-To Book. Interweave Press, 2004.

Star, Vicki. Beading with Herringbone Stitch: A Beadwork How-To Book. Interweave Press, 2001.

Wells, Carol Wilcox. The Art & Elegance of Bead Weaving. Lark Books, 2002.

———. Creative Bead Weaving: A Contemporary Guide to Classic Off-Loom Stitches. Lark Books, 1998.

Loom Weaving

Pierce, Don. Beading on a Loom. Interweave Press, 1999.

———. Designs for Beading on a Loom. Donald Pierce, 2001.

Knitting, Crochet, and Embroidery with Beads

Barry, Bethany. Bead Crochet: A Beadwork How-To Book. Interweave Press, 2004.

Benson, Ann. Designer Beadwork: Beaded Crochet Designs. Sterling Publishing Co., 2005.

Bertoglio-Giffin, Judith. Bead Crochet Ropes. Bead Line Press, 2002.

———. Patterns & Graphing for Bead Crochet Ropes. Bead Line Press, 2004.

Chin, Lily. Knit and Crochet with Beads. Interweave Press, 2004.

Clarke, Amy C., and Robin Atkins. Beaded Embellishment: Techniques & Designs for Embroidering on Cloth. Interweave Press, 2002.

Cypher, Carol Huber. Hand Felted Jewelry and Beads: 25 Artful Designs. Interweave Press, 2006.

Davis, Jane. Bead Embroidery: The Complete Guide. Krause Publications, 2005.

Lehman, Linda, and Shelley Grant. Bead Crochet Jewelry: Tools, Tips, and 15 Beautiful Projects. Schiffer Publishing, 2004.

Neiman, Mary Libby. Bead Crochet Basics: Beaded Bracelets, Necklaces, Jewelry and More! Design Originals, 2004.

Ogura, Yukiko. Bead Embroidery. Japan Publications Trading, 2007.

Wirework and French-Beaded Flowers

Chandler, Linda L., and Christine R. Ritchey. Getting Started Making Wire Jewelry and More. Interweave Press, 2005.

———. Woven Wire Jewelry: Contemporary Designs and Creative Techniques. Interweave Press, 2004.

Fisch, Arline. Textile Techniques in Metal: For Jewelers, Textile Artists & Sculptors. Lark Books, 2003.

Jones, Linda. Making Colorful Wire & Beaded Jewelry: 35 Fabulous Designs. Interweave Press, 2006.

Lareau, Mark. All Wired Up: Wire Techniques for the Beadworker and Jewelry Maker. Interweave Press, 2000.

Nathanson, Virginia. Making Bead Flowers and Bouquets. Dover Publications, 2002.

Peterson, Irene. Silver Wire Jewelry: Projects to Coil, Braid & Knit. Lark Books, 2005.

Ryan, M. T. Glamorous Beaded Jewelry: Bracelets, Necklaces, Earrings, and Rings. Dover Publications, 2006.

Wiseman, Nancie M. Crochet with Wire. Interweave Press, 2005. ———. Knitting with Wire. Interweave Press, 2003.

BEADING AND RELATED MAGAZINES

Art Jewelry

Bead & Button

Bead Style

Beadwork

Jewelry Crafts

Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist

Ornament

Step by Step Beads

Step by Step Wire Jewelry

Stringing

NATIONAL SHOWS

Bead & Button Show

Interweave Beadwork Bead Expo

Tucson Show Guide

The Whole Bead Show

BEADERS OF INTEREST

Judith Bertoglio-Griffin

Ingrid Gold-bloom Bloch

Ruby Fischer

Douglas W. Johnson

Jennifer Maestre

Kate Fowle Meleney

Laura Willits

BEAD SHOPS AND SUPPLIERS

Before ordering by mail, be sure to support your local bead shops! We list just a few of the many, with city locations in parentheses.

Ands Silver

Anne Choi

Antelope Beads

Argentium Silver Findings

Armour Products

Artbeads

Artgems

Astral Beads

Auntie’s Beads

Austin Gem and Bead

Ayla’s Originals

Barking Rock Farm

Bead Cats

Bead Gallery

The Bead Monkey

The Bead Shop

Bead Spinner Lady

Bead Stopper

Beadalon

Beadazzled

Beaded Images

Beaded Impressions

beadFX

Beading Bees

The Beadin’ Path

Beads East

Beadworks

Beadwrangler

Beautiful Bead

Bella Venetian Beads

Bobby Bead

Canada Beading Supply

Caravan Beads

Castleander Beads

Cochenille Design Studio

Corina Beads

Cynthia Rutledge

D & I Beads

Design Originals

Diana Friedberg

Don Pierce

Donegan Optical Company

Dremel

Empyrean Beads

Etchall

FindingKing

Fire Mountain Gems

Foxden Designs

Fusion Beads

General Bead

Green Girl Studios

Helby Import Co.

i-bead

Intercal

James Smircich

Jewelry Supply, Inc.

Just Beads

Kimdoly

Knitty

Land of Odds

Le Beaderie

Liliana Bead

Lilly’s Bead Box

Lima Beads

Marcia Katz

Mill Hill

Mirrix Tapestry and Bead Loom

Miyuki Beads

Moondance Designs

Nina Designs

Nordic Needle

Ornamentea

Ott-Lite

Out On A Whim

Paramount Wire

Pellon Consumer Products

Pema Arts

Rio Grande

Rishashay

Roessler Glass

School of Beadwork

Shepherdess

Shiana

Shipwreck Beads

SoftFlex Co.

Sweet Creek Creations

Toho

ToolGS

U Bead It

Via Murano

Vintaj Natural Brass Co.