THREE

Never Forget the Tire Iron

should point out that, contrary to popular belief, I’m not always completely to blame for my drunken shenanigans. And while I do make my best effort to be a professional at all times, sometimes my best just isn’t good enough. Alcohol is a slippery mistress. One day she brings out the charismatic charmer; the next, the irate hothead. All of which is to say that occasionally on booze junkets like the one I’m about to describe, I get wasted (my hosts’ fault entirely for overserving me, you understand) and wind up behaving in a manner polite society deems inappropriate or—as a former editor of mine at the Tribune Company observed moments before firing me—“completely and utterly assholish.”

For instance, when the cultured, respectable folks who organize the Pebble Beach Food & Wine Festival invited me to attend their second annual event back in 2009, it probably never occurred to them that things—and by things, I mean me—could spin so badly out of control. In their defense, they were not the first to make that mistake.

In my defense (though my attorney suggested I try a different approach if we wound up in court), I was out of my element. Pebble Beach is a long, long way from where I live—not only geographically but spiritually. Plus, I showed up battling a touch of the flu. Turns out NyQuil doesn’t pair all that well with fine wine.

In a preweekend informational e-mail, the Pebble Beach event organizers described the land to which I was about to journey as “where verdant valleys meet a pristine coastline, where there is often a chilly fog bank that can unexpectedly move in.” Then they suggested that a lightweight cashmere sweater wrapped around one’s neck is “a perfect accessory for most daytime events.”

Which perfectly sums up what I mean about being out of my element: In the places where I normally hang out, the only reasons you would have a cashmere sweater wrapped around your neck is if you were stealing it or being strangled.

But no matter. I graciously accepted their invitation and showed up at the appropriate time and place, showered and shaved and—as presentable as my Irish genes and ripped jeans would allow—pressed onward, for I am a professional. And as a professional, I make a point of carrying two things with me at all times: a notebook and a voice recorder. What happened that weekend is why I carry them. The following transcript reflects my best attempt at a true, real-time account.

WEDNESDAY, 12:30 P.M.—While I’m driving in on Highway 68 near Spreckels in Monterey County, my iPod shuffles from Winger’s “Seventeen” to Mozart’s “Symphony No. 40,” which is the road-trip soundtrack equivalent of a groin pull. Also, Spreckels? What the hell is that? I’d say it’s a pet’s name at best. But a farming community where hardworking folks live, pay taxes, and drive pickup trucks? These people should be allowed to live somewhere that doesn’t sound like a skin condition.

WEDNESDAY, 1:07 P.M.—After a five-hour drive north up the Grapevine, I check into the Monterey Hyatt under the name Arthur Bach. If you have to ask who that is and why I use that pseudonym, take a drink. If you don’t have to ask, take two. I certainly did, as I promptly kicked the weekend off with two snifters of single-malt Scotch. It just feels right in this highfalutin setting. (I actually remember this part!)

WEDNESDAY, 2 P.M.—The wonderful people from Pebble Beach Resorts have comped me a round of golf at the magnificent Links at Spanish Bay. As I stand on the tee box at the first hole and gaze out toward the white-capped Pacific Ocean, I can’t help but reflect upon how pissed God must still be at me for that time I made out with my eighth-grade girlfriend in the confessional at St. Albert’s. I mean, really, how else do you explain 65 mph winds blowing in my face no matter which direction I turn? I reach into my golf bag, dig out one of the airplane mini-bottles of booze I keep stashed inside (in this case, rum), and gulp it down in an attempt to compensate.

WEDNESDAY, 2:01 P.M.—I just hit a perfect drive. The ball went 17 yards. Gonna be a long day.

WEDNESDAY, 3:18 P.M.—The wind just loosened several of my teeth. Seven holes? I’m going to go ahead and call that eighteen. I bet Phil Mickelson never shot a 45 at Spanish Bay.

WEDNESDAY, 7:45 P.M.—I’m having dinner with my buddy Larry Olmsted, who wrote a wonderful book titled Getting Into Guinness. After pounding a rather stiff drink (my memory of what, exactly, is a bit fuzzy), I tell him I’ve got a feeling I may shatter some sort of world record myself this weekend. (There is actual, honest-to-God thunder at this point on the recording.)

WEDNESDAY, 10:45 P.M.—Why am I hugging Larry Olmsted?

THURSDAY, 8:22 A.M.—We’re about ten minutes away from the shotgun start of the celebrity chef/winemaker golf tourney, and I’m already on my third drink. Unless you count the Cristal. And the Stella. Does beer even count? I think I’ve found the problem with my methodology here. The problem is counting. In any case, the way I see it, if you play golf sober you are officially part of the problem.

THURSDAY, 8:32 A.M.—We’re starting on hole thirteen. And I’m rapidly approaching drink number thirteen. This is not a good sign.

THURSDAY, 9:14 A.M.—One of my randomly assigned playing partners, a nice if somewhat skittish man from San Francisco who I’ll call Marlon, pulls me aside and says, “Hey, man, remember—Pebble Beach is hallowed ground.” Not sure if this is meant to inspire or discourage me from dropping trou on the sixteenth tee box. I drink a vodka-lemonade instead.

THURSDAY, 9:30 A.M.—Five holes in and I’m starting to hit my stride. Unfortunately for the rest of the team, my stride looks a lot like Mel Gibson during a roadside sobriety test.

THURSDAY, 10:26 A.M.—Just bumped into famed chef Thomas Keller. I told him I was a professional scribe for an esteemed publication and that I’ll be visiting New York City soon and wouldn’t mind dropping by his acclaimed restaurant Per Se to see if it lives up to the hype. On the house, of course, I added with a wry grin. Keller sort of smiled too, but was clearly uncertain as to whether I was kidding or just a raging asshole. Not at all sure myself at this point, actually.

THURSDAY, 12 P.M.—I may need to change my pants. I just thwacked a golf ball to within two feet of the pin on the par-3 seventh here. If there’s a more beautiful hole in golf, I’d like to make love to it.

THURSDAY, 12:01 P.M.—Marlon just slapped me on the ass and shouted, “You can be my wingman anytime!” Not that there’s anything wrong with that, mind you. Some of my best friends quote Tom Cruise movies.

THURSDAY, 2 P.M.—Too God-many-fucking-ass drinks to the wind, and we’re at an awards ceremony at Club XIX, which overlooks the stunning eighteenth green. How’d we do? Well, we didn’t come in first, but we didn’t disgrace ourselves either. Regardless, I am choosing to pretend I’ve won. So this is what it feels like to be Jack Nicklaus. Hordes of attendees are now falling over one another to get at … OK, at Thomas Keller, who’s looking cool as a cucumber in his wraparound shades. The guy’s like Bono with a skillet. I’m convinced it’s only a matter of time before dry cleaners, like chefs, get their due on reality TV and become international superstars. Hopefully, booze writers are right behind those Martinizing bastards in line.

THURSDAY, 4:30 P.M.—Back at my hotel room. Officially lost count of how much alcohol I’ve consumed. I wonder if Jack Nicklaus ever gets bedspins?

THURSDAY, 7:35 P.M.—The opening-night gala at the Inn at Spanish Bay is a saturnalia of gustatory delights. Among the many well-known chefs strutting their stuff are Tom Colicchio, Michelle Bernstein, Alex Stratta, Roy Yamaguchi, and Nancy Silverton—which is to say, the cream of America’s culinary crop. The wines on hand also represent the best of what our great nation has to offer: Big Basin Rattlesnake Rock syrah, a medium-bodied gem from the Santa Cruz Mountains; Symmetry, a delightfully spicy fruit bomb from Rodney Strong; and Oliver’s Blend from Skipstone, the boutique Alexander Valley winery. Its symphony of plums, berries, and currants is so profoundly delicious, it damn near moved me to tears. Cab-merlot blends with intense mid-palates get me every time.

THURSDAY, 8:43 P.M.—The highlight of my evening just happened. I met Morgan Leigh Norman, daughter of golfer/wine mogul Greg Norman and gorgeous enough to render me speechless. As you’ve gathered by now, it takes a lot to render me speechless.

THURSDAY, 11:22 P.M.—Back in the hotel room, everything’s become awfully fuzzy. And squishy. No problem. I’m a professional. And professionals make notes before they pass out. I hereby note that for my money Pierre Seillan of Vérité in Sonoma County is making the finest wines in the U.S. right now, but we all know how I’m a sucker for that Bordeaux-style business. Oh, and I also note what good fun it was running into Ted Allen, of Queer Eye for the Straight Guy fame. I think he told me he’s got a new show on the Food Network. Good fun. Must set TiVo. Why am I suddenly using phrases like “Good fun”? At this point my speech becomes a bit garbled. Must have been a problem with the voice recorder. What’s that? The Au Bon Climat paired well with the risotto? Or was that pudding? No, it was pillows. Pillows filled with fromage blanc and herbs made by Chris Kostow of Meadowood in Napa. Pillows. Fromage. Viognier. Oh, yeah, the Skipstone Viognier was nice too. Ooh, Top Gun is on cable. I’m gonna watch me the shit out of some Top Gun. I should use “saturnalia” somewhere in here—that’s a good foodie word. And “gustatory.” People say “gustatory” all the time here. Dammit, where’s Morgan Leigh Norman’s business card?

FRIDAY—My voice recorder has not a single entry from Friday, though I do have this written in my notebook: “Never forget the tire iron.” If you know what that means, please get in touch.

SATURDAY, 10:17 A.M.—Fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck. I lost my wallet. This fucking sucks.

SATURDAY, 12:30 P.M.—Some guy just passed me at the Lexus Grand Tasting and said, “Nice work last night. Did you get her number?” Then he winked. I don’t recall ever meeting this joker in my life. And whose number? Was it Morgan Leigh Norman? For the love of all that’s good and holy let it be her, and let the answer be yes. Must check BlackBerry.

SATURDAY, 12:31 P.M.—The only Norman saved in my phone is Norman Mailer. And that’s a dude from my kickboxing class, not the brilliant dead demigod. That guy never picks up anyway.

SATURDAY, 1:04 P.M.—I have a new favorite chef! David Pasternack of the seafood joint Esca in Manhattan, winner of the 2004 James Beard Foundation Award for Best New York Chef, but what’s more appealing than his cooking is his attitude. No bullshit, just pure New York vitality. And a sense of humor to boot! I tell him I’m a professional scribe for an esteemed publication and that I’ll be visiting New York City soon and that I wouldn’t mind dropping by his acclaimed restaurant to see if it lives up to the hype. “On the house, of course,” said with a wry grin (I use this line a lot, as you may have gathered). He comes back with “Hell yeah, brotha!” It’s good to be back in my element.

SATURDAY, 4:26 P.M.—A woman from the front desk just called up to my room. Turns out my wallet was right where I left it: in the room of someone named Kris. “They left it at the front desk for you,” she says. Out comes the BlackBerry again. There it is—a Kris who wasn’t there before. No last name, though. A 310 area code. I hope she’s hot.

SATURDAY, 4:28 P.M.—I have not reached the desk yet, but a thought has occurred to me. “Kris” could very easily be “Chris.” As in Christopher. As in a dude. Was I that drunk on Friday? In all likelihood. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, mind you. Some of my best friends are occasionally drunkenly gay. Now I’m trying to recall the front desk woman’s exact words. Did she say “she” left it? Probably, right?

SATURDAY, 4:29 P.M.—The front desk woman says the wallet was there when she came on duty and she has no idea of the gender of the person in question. But there’s a note inside. “You dropped this, hot stuff. Great time last night. Had to head back to L.A. See you there, neighbor!” The handwriting is neat, but not too neat. And what does she (I hope) mean, “neighbor”? Is that a figure of speech, like when somebody calls you “cowboy” even though you’re from Philly or “homey” even though you’re white?

(Editor’s note: The remaining entries from Saturday have been omitted by request of the Crown Publishing Group’s legal department.)

My memory picks up again Sunday morning, what with the long drive ahead of me. Checkout time. What an amazing weekend. At least, I think. Oh, look, it’s that guy from the Grand Tasting, the one who asked me about the phone number. Greg? Gary? Yes, Gary! He’s more distinguished than I remember, at least judging from the cashmere sweater wrapped around his neck.

“Hi, Gary. What’s up, man? Hey, this is kind of a weird question, but I was just wondering who it was you were talking about when you asked if I got her phone number.”

He squints at me quizzically through the dark circles under his eyes.

“I’m really sorry, but I don’t recall meeting you,” he croaks. “It was a loooong weekend, you know.”

“Indeed it was,” I say, smiling and feeling whole again as Gary wraps an arm around his trophy wife and walks gingerly toward a courtesy Lexus, which will presumably take him to the airport.

Me? I jump in my 4Runner and gun it back toward L.A. Somehow, several days have passed and the deadline for my weekly Playboy.com column went whooshing by. Not a good thing, but not disastrous, either. At least I can use the weekend’s events as my next topic. If only I could remember them.

In the end, even though I didn’t technically bring back any memories from my little jaunt to Pebble Beach, I did emerge with one thing—a big fucking hangover. And the blinding rays of—ouch—sunshine streaming through my windshield and piercing straight into my pounding skull as I zoom down the Pacific Coast Highway aren’t helping, either. Luckily, as a professional, there’s no hangover I can’t cure. And now, I impart this invaluable wisdom to you.

Hangovers and How to Beat Them

I have always lived violently, drunk hugely, eaten too much or not at all, slept around the clock or missed two nights of sleeping, worked too hard and too long in glory, or slobbed for a time in utter laziness. I’ve lifted, pulled, chopped, climbed, made love with joy and taken my hangovers as a consequence, not as a punishment.

Those words by John Steinbeck are one of the most honest assessments I’ve seen of the perils and pleasures of what I call The Life Gigantic. And that last bit—about hangovers being a consequence rather than a punishment—has helped sustain me through many a morning curled up next to the toilet on a cold bathroom floor, shaking, sweating, and swearing to all that is good and holy that I would Never. Ever. Drink. Again.

Yeah, right.

After many years of making a living by indulging in mass quantities of adult beverages, I’ve come to understand that while one is suffering the ill aftereffects of overconsumption, the urge to promise yourself you’ll never drink again can be overwhelming. But for incorrigible louts and inveterate pleasure-seekers like me, “I’m done with booze” is to drinking as “just the tip” is to one-night stands—a bald-faced lie, and one that should be dispensed with, provided everyone in the room is prepared to act like an adult. Which is to say, admit that they like to drink and fuck far too much to stop anytime soon.

So to those who are ready to grow up and admit that morning-after vows of sobriety are bullshit, yet who still wish to avoid future pain on the magnitude of that which I suffered following my Pebble Beach bender, never fear. There is an antidote.

Now, in scientific terms, when you’re trying to cure a hangover what you’re doing is trying to counteract the unpleasant physiological effects of acetaldehyde, the misery-inducing substance that alcohol turns into after holding court in your liver for a while. Since we’re living in the real world here, we’re going to ignore the fact that the best way to prevent a hangover is to avoid it in the first place by taking commonsense steps such as avoiding excessive amounts of brown liquors and sweet, sugary concoctions (let alone sweet, sugary concoctions made with brown booze), downing a glass of water after every other alcoholic beverage, eating lots of carbs prior to drinking (to slow down the rate of alcohol absorption), and—yawn—moderation.

For the sake of reality we’re also going to acknowledge that when strong drink is involved, the chances of a practicing imbiber remembering to use said hangover-prevention measures are on par with the chances of him remembering he’s married. So let’s get our heads out of our asses and forget about this prevention crap. The hangover is going to happen, so here are my hard-earned, lab-tested solutions for what to do about it.

1. Don’t Panic

First of all, realize there’s more to surviving a wicked hangover than making false promises and memorizing passages from lesser-known Steinbeck novels (the quote above is from Travels with Charley, by the way). For instance, anyone who regularly awakens with five angry midgets playing grabass behind their eyeballs is familiar with the following checklist: wallet, cell phone, car keys, hat, pants, outgoing cell-phone call log. But once you’ve secured the basics and satisfied yourself that the previous evening didn’t end in complete and utter disaster, it’s time to do something about the midgets—sorry, little people—and their horrible, horrible games.

When in the throes of a particularly acute hangover—say, one precipitated by excessive consumption of Southern Comfort—it’s possible that some parts of your body may claim temporary independence. The key here is to remain calm. You can ride this out. Remind yourself that your right eye has its reasons for not opening, and that your left hand will almost certainly be able to grasp things again tomorrow. In rare instances your bowels may go rogue. Hey, I’m not here to judge, but if that happens, you’re beyond my help. All you can do is pray to God you’re in a hotel room with enough cash in your wallet for a Hail Mary tip and chalk it up as fodder for your memoirs.

2. Smoke ’Em If You Got ’Em (And Have Nothing Else to Do That Day)

If legendary stoner Jeff Spicoli taught us anything in that memorable scene from Fast Times at Ridgemont High where he gleefully whacks himself in the skull with a checkered Vans sneaker, it’s that getting baked makes you virtually invulnerable to head trauma. I mean, seriously, if cancer patients use the sticky icky to mitigate the ill effects of chemotherapy, what chance does a hangover have?

3. Retox

There are many theories regarding the origin of the phrase “hair of the dog,” but they all amount to the same thing. To avoid the aftereffects of a night of binge drinking (or what sticklers and losers might call alcohol withdrawl), you’re going to have to start drinking again the next morning. Wonderful long-term strategy; see you at Betty Ford. But the dirty secret of this method is that it works. Just bear in mind that the trick is to drink enough to cure the hangover but not get hangover-worthy again. You’re aiming for a nap-worthy buzz here. Get really, really drunk and you will experience the Double Hangover. And friends, I have met the Double Hangover. I know the Double Hangover. You do not want the Double Hangover.

Now, most seasoned drinkers have their preferred hair-of-the-dog remedy (I once knew someone who swore by the dubious method of chasing three PBRs with a shot of Jäger), but my advice to those with an uncommonly well-stocked bar is to go with an amazingly curative shot of the digestif Fernet-Branca. It’s a bitter, aromatic spirit made with lots of soothing herbs. Best tool for the job by a mile.

For those who prefer the classics, of course, there’s always the mother of all morning-after drinks, the Bloody Mary. This delightful libation (which has the added benefit of containing at least two of your daily required servings of vegetables—practically salad in a glass) was invented at the King Cole Bar in New York City’s St. Regis Hotel, and the good folks there were kind enough to provide us with their original recipe for the “Red Snapper,” which they still serve. To wit:

1 oz. vodka

2 oz. tomato juice

1 dash lemon juice

2 dashes salt

2 dashes black pepper

2 dashes cayenne pepper

3 dashes Worcestershire sauce

Lemon wedge, for garnish

Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously. Strain over ice cubes. Garnish with a lemon wedge.

Now, the proportions here are dainty (so double ’em), and I prefer a celery stalk (and wouldn’t discourage you from adding celery salt and Tabasco, if you’re asking). That said, I completely understand if you’re too hungover to make it out to brunch and all you have in your fridge is Cheez Whiz and mustard. Basically, if it’s booze and you can keep it down, drink it. If that means three parts vodka and one part prayer, shaken over ice, I’m not going to call the cocktail police on you.

4. Hydrate

You’ve heard it before, but water really will flush the bad stuff out of your bloodstream—it helps you pee out the poison, if you will. So drink tons of liquids, and maybe pop a few analgesic tablets for good measure. Then, posthaste, you should …

5. Have Sex

Ideally with someone besides yourself. It won’t be the best lay of your life (and may be only barely tolerable for your generous and understanding—or equally hungover—partner), but it’ll get the blood pumping. Really. Sex will actually kill pain by increasing the amount of oxygen in the body. In lieu of a willing partner, you can always take matters into your own hand. Now, wash up and follow that with a heaping plate of …

6. Bacon, Eggs, and Toast

First off, yum. Second off, bacon and eggs are full of protein, which breaks down into amino acids. You need those. Third off, bacon has grease. Your body wants a little greasy love right now. Fourth off, toast is starch, and that horrible mess in your stomach wants something to soak its horribleness into. And if you’re having all that, you should probably toss in a little …

7. Coffee

The magical caffeine in coffee will constrict the blood vessels in your brain, making them hurt less. I don’t know why this works, but it does. Which is why I’d also recommend a …

8. Cold Shower

Cold water also constricts your blood vessels, but without dehydrating you or throwing a wrench into your naptime plans. Added bonus: If you suddenly feel like you’re about to vomit up the huge, greasy meal I just implored you to consume, you’ll be in the right room.

If you’ve had coffee, pot, booze, water, sex, bacon, and a cold shower and are still hungover, then I put it to you that you do not actually exist. Either that or you’re Charles Bukowski. That dude’s been dead sixteen years and he’s still hungover.

Freudian Flip”

CREATED BY JONATHAN POGASH

1 oz. Bols Genever

3/4 oz. Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot Liqueur (from Austria)

1 whole egg

1/2 oz. demerara syrup*

Rinse of Zirbenz stone pine liqueur (also from Austria)

Nutmeg, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, dry hump … I mean shake all ingredients (that means shaking without ice) except for the Zirbenz, for as long as your arms can handle it. Then add ice, and switch arms if you need to, and then shake again with all the vigor you can possibly drum up. Your palms should stick to the shaker tin at this point. When this occurs, strain ingredients out into a fancy cocktail glass that has been rinsed with the Zirbenz. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.

“This drink is reminiscent of the flips, nogs, and other fancy drinks served during the heyday of the cocktail: the nineteenth century. It’s a creamy, frothy, milky, refreshing kind of drink that sits nicely on the palate and goes down smoothly. Um … that sounds weird now that I’m reading it back to myself. Scratch that. Let’s try this again. The egg, when combined with the strong force of the Genever, enters the body, slowly coating the throat and falling into the belly, where they meet and become one. Um … hmm … that sounds kind of odd too. Screw it! Just slurp it up, will ya?”

*Demerara syrup is equal parts demerara sugar dissolved in water.

JONATHAN POGASH is a cocktail educator, bartender, and drinks consultant. His Web site, TheCocktailGuru.com, will tell you everything you need to know about him—if you’re interested, of course. And why wouldn’t you be? You like to drink, right?