Sensational Salads

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mesclun

Mesclun is a Provençal term for a mix of many varieties of young red and green lettuces, arugula (rocket), endives, and chervil, either grown together or grown separately and then mixed in the salad bowl. Mesclun is traditionally served with a simple vinaigrette. There are endless variations using different vinegars, lemon juice, sprinklings of fresh herbs, and all different types of croutons and seasonings.

For the dressing:

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Salt and pepper

6 to 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

For the salad:

4 to 6 large handfuls of mixed mesclun greens

To make the dressing: Mix the vinegar, salt, and pepper and using a whisk blend in the oil to taste.

To make the salad: Toss the dressing gently with the mesclun greens and serve. Serves 4 to 6.


basic garden salad

One of the great things about a salad is that you can usually take whatever is in the garden, produce section, or farmers’ market and mix it in the bowl, from early spring to late fall—even in the winter if you have a cold frame or a little greenhouse. Most times the base of your salad will be a lettuce or some other neutral green. To determine quantities, figure on one large handful of greens per person. To the greens you can add all sorts of goodies like baby beet thinnings, wild chickweed, pea shoots, cooked vegetables, meats, nuts, and croutons. The list is almost endless. The following is a jumping-off-type recipe; the point is to let your imagination dictate what goes into your glorious salads.

For the dressing:

1½ tablespoons balsamic or rice wine vinegar

1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard

3 to 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon fresh dill or basil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

1 small head butter lettuce

1 small head Oak Leaf lettuce

1 small Belgian endive, base removed and leaves separated

1 small head of frisée

10 arugula (rocket) leaves

6 dill flowers

1 large red chard stem, cut into 2-in (5-cm) pieces

To make the dressing: In a small bowl, mix the vinegar, garlic, mustard, oil, and herbs; add salt and pepper to taste; and whisk until emulsified.

To make the salad: Combine the greens in a large bowl. Pour the dressing over the greens, and toss. Garnish with dill flowers and chopped chard stem. Serves 4.

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wild party salad

This salad has a festive feeling and a bright minty flavor. It can include a dozen varieties of greens, even wild ones like violets or miner’s lettuce, or a tamer mix of three or four lovely lettuces and baby spinach. Much depends on what’s available in your garden or at the market.

For the dressing:

5 tablespoons avocado oil

5 tablespoons chardonnay

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh mint

For the salad:

1 large head romaine lettuce

2 large heads leaf lettuce

1 large handful arugula (rocket), stems discarded

1 small bunch of young spinach

2 to 4 handfuls of greens, such as baby bok choy or chard, upland cress or watercress, violet leaves, miner’s lettuce, minutina, and chrysanthemum leaves, or other seasonal greens

½ cup (20 g) violet and violas, petals of calendula and chive blossoms, small florets of mustard or broccoli blossom

Garnish: whole calendula or viola flowers, florets of mustard or broccoli, and a few sprigs of whole greens

To make the dressing: In a small mixing bowl, combine the oil, wine, vinegar, salt and pepper, and mint. Stir the ingredients with a wire whisk. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

To make the salad: Wash the greens and dry them in a salad spinner or on paper towels. Tear the greens into bite-size pieces and place them in a very large serving bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Wash the edible flowers and put the stems in a glass of water or place the flowers between damp paper towels. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

To serve, remove the petals from the calendula and chive flower heads, break the mustard or broccoli flower heads into small florets, and set them aside. Stir the dressing, drizzle it over the greens, and toss lightly to coat the greens. Sprinkle the chive and calendula petals, mustard and broccoli florets, and whole viola or violet flowers over the salad. Garnish one side of the bowl with a cluster of whole calendula or viola flowers, mustard or broccoli florets, and a few whole greens. Serves 6 to 8.


watermelon spicy salad

This salad is a blend of traditional Thai flavors. The following recipe was inspired by a TV show I saw featuring chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. I missed writing down their recipe, so I tried to re-create it. Here is my re-creation.

For the dressing:

¼ cup (65 ml) fresh lime juice

¼ cup (65 ml) white grape juice

1 tablespoon nam pla (Thai fish sauce)

1 tablespoon chopped mint or cilantro

1 or 2 jalapeño peppers, minced

Garnish: mint or cilantro

For the salad:

1 small head Bibb lettuce

4 cups (600 g) watermelon cubes, seeded if necessary

16 to 20 small American shrimp, cooked

½ cup (65 g) chopped roasted salted peanuts

To make the salad: Line 4 individual salad plates with the Bibb lettuce leaves. Put 1 cup (150 g) of the water-melon cubes on each plate. Add the shrimp, and sprinkle the peanuts over the salad. In a small bowl, whisk together the dressing ingredients and distribute evenly over each plate. Garnish with sprigs of fresh mint or cilantro. Serves 4.


flower confetti salad

Chartreuse butter lettuces and the warm colors of flower petals can dress up an everyday salad or start off a festive meal. A salad can be especially dramatic when prepared at the table. Pick flowers as close to serving time as possible. Put the stems in a glass of water and refrigerate.

For the dressing:

2 tablespoons rice-wine or champagne vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon frozen white grape juice or apple juice concentrate

3 or 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

For the salad:

1 large or 2 small heads of Bibb lettuce

1 large handful of mixed baby greens

6 to 8 organically grown edible flowers such as nasturtiums, calendulas, violas, pansies, rose petals, or borage flowers

To make the dressing: In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, salt, pepper, and juice concentrate. Whisk in the oil until blended.

To make the salad: Wash the lettuce and baby greens and dry them in a salad spinner or gently pat them dry with paper towels. In a large salad bowl, break the lettuce leaves into bite-size pieces and add baby greens. If not serving immediately, cover the bowl lightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Wash the flowers gently, lightly pat them dry with paper towels, and gently pull off the petals. In a small bowl, stir the petals to mix the colors and make a confetti. You should have about cup (15 g) of loosely packed petals.

Stir the dressing, pour 3 or 4 tablespoons over the lettuce and greens, and toss. Add more dressing if needed, but be careful not to overwhelm the salad. Divide the salad equally among four salad plates. Scatter a small handful of flower-petal confetti over each individual salad and serve. Serves 4.


garden bouquet salad with lemon-herb vinaigrette

Here’s an elegant and exotic salad from Renee Shepherd of Renee’s Garden.

For the dressing:

1 small scallion (green onion), chopped fine

1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard

2 or 3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon dry white wine

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

1 tablespoon minced chive flower petals or chopped fresh chives

¼ teaspoon salt

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

¾ cup (190 ml) olive oil

For the salad:

2 small heads radicchio (or red-leaf lettuce as a second choice)

2 handfuls mâche (corn salad)

2 small heads Bibb lettuce

12 to 14 leaves (2 handfuls) young arugula (rocket) or watercress

2 or 3 fresh sorrel leaves

¾ cup (30 g) fresh green and purple basil leaves

½ cup (20 g) calendula petals

¼ cup (10 g) borage flowers

To make the dressing: With a whisk, combine all the ingredients except the oil. Slowly whisk in the oil, beating continually until the mixture is thoroughly blended. Season to taste. Refrigerate until ready to use.

To make the salad: Wash and dry the greens. Reserve 6 to 8 leaves of radicchio or red lettuce. Tear the remaining radicchio, mâche, Bibb lettuce, arugula, and sorrel into bite-size pieces and combine them with the basil leaves in the center of the salad bowl. Line the outer edges of the bowl with the reserved radicchio or red lettuce. Sprinkle the calendula petals and borage flowers around the outside border.

Stir the dressing again and pour it over the salad after presenting it at the table. Serves 6.

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riot of color salad

How about a really colorful salad for a special occasion? Use your imagination and the prettiest edible flowers from your garden.

For the dressing:

1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar

3 to 4 tablespoons sunflower oil

1 tablespoon clover or wildflower honey

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

1 large head romaine lettuce

1 head butter lettuce

1 small head frisée

4 to 6 young leaves of yellow chard

About a dozen organically grown edible flowers such as yellow and blue violas, purple pansies, nasturtiums, yellow calendulas, and red dianthus

To make the dressing: In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, sunflower oil, honey, salt and pepper. Set aside.

To make the salad: Arrange the romaine lettuce, butter lettuce, and chard leaves on a large colorful platter. Separate the flowers into petals, reserving some whole. Sprinkle the greens with flower petals and garnish with the whole blossoms. Bring the salad to the table and let diners dress their own salad. Serves 4.

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tangelo and kiwi salad with orange blossoms

This citrus salad is lovely to look at, and the flavors are both familiar yet slightly different. Taste your citrus petals before adding them to the dressing. Expect some bitterness, but if they are very harsh try blossoms from another tree. The point of adding a few citrus blossoms to the dressing is to infuse the tangelo juice with a lovely aroma and to deepen the citrus flavor.

6 medium tangelos, divided, or 3 tangelos and 1 cup (250 ml) of bottled fresh tangerine juice

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

5 lemon, tangerine, or orange blossoms, divided

1 tablespoon honey (optional)

2 kiwifruit

To make the salad: Squeeze 3 of the tangelos and put the juice (or the bottled tangerine juice) in a medium bowl. Add the lemon juice and the petals of 3 of the orange blossoms. If the tangelos are not very sweet, add a tablespoon of honey. Peel and section the remaining 3 tangelos, peel and slice the kiwifruit, add them to the juice mixture, and stir to cover the fruit. Refrigerate for a few hours.

To serve: divide the fruit among four serving dishes. Pour the tangelo juice over the fruit and garnish with the remaining citrus blossom petals. Serves 4.

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rainbow slaw

This slaw is fairly low in calories for a party dish, and it’s packed with nutrition. Serve it with grilled meats or as part of a buffet.

For the dressing:

Juice of 1 lemon

⅔ cup (170 ml) white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

¾ teaspoon celery seeds

⅓ cup (85 ml) vegetable oil

3 or 4 tablespoons frozen apple juice concentrate

Freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

8 cups (800 g) finely sliced green cabbage (1 large head)

1 cup (35 g) thinly sliced chard leaves

2 cups (300 g) finely sliced carrots

1 small sweet onion, thinly sliced

1 cup (50 g) thinly sliced red chard stems

To make the dressing: In a small bowl, mix together the lemon juice, vinegar, salt, celery seeds, oil, apple juice concentrate, and pepper (to taste) and stir until the ingredients are fairly well blended.

To make the salad: Place the cabbage in the bottom of a large salad bowl. Creating a decorative pattern, arrange the chard leaves, then the carrots, then the onions, and finally the chard stems.

Pour the dressing over the slaw and serve. The salad may be refrigerated for a few hours, but the dressing separates, and the red chard stems lose some of their color if the salad sits too long. Serves 8 to 10.


oriana’s cabbage salad

This recipe could also be called Latin Coleslaw; it was given to me by my young neighbor, Oriana Mendy. She says it tastes best when made using tomatoes from a friendly neighbor.

½ medium green cabbage, finely shredded

3 or 4 ripe tomatoes, diced

1 large ripe avocado, cut into ½-in (13-mm) cubes

3 or 4 scallions (green onions), finely sliced

¼ to ⅓ cup (5–10 g) chopped fresh cilantro

Juice of 1 lime

Salt

Place the cabbage, tomatoes, avocado, and scallions in a large bowl. Sprinkle the cilantro, lime juice, and salt (to taste) over the cabbage mixture and gently stir to combine the ingredients. Serve immediately in a large bowl or prepare individual serving plates. Serves 4.

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romano bean salad with grilled tuna

This mid-summer treat is great with crusty bread, and just right for a light fancy lunch.

For the dressing:

½ cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

3 to 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

½ small red onion, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon salt

1 medium red bell pepper

1½ lbs (725 g) green and gold Romano beans, sliced 1 in (2.5 cm) on the bias (about 4 cups)

Optional: 3-in (8-cm) sprig of fresh winter savory

8 to 10 leaves butter or leaf lettuce

½ to ⅔ lb (250–340 g) fresh yellow-fin tuna fillet

To make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper together until they emulsify. Set aside.

To make the salad: Put the onion slices into a small bowl, cover them with cold water, and add the salt. Mix together and let them sit for 1 hour to remove some of the bite.

Meanwhile, roast the pepper over the flame of a gas stove, or under a broiler until charred. Place the charred pepper into a brown paper bag and let it cool. When it is cool enough to handle, remove the seeds, scrape off the skin, and cut the pepper into ½-inch (13-mm) strips. Set them aside.

Steam the beans with the (optional) savory over simmering water about 5 minutes or until just tender. Drain the beans, discarding the savory. Shock the beans in ice water until they are chilled and drain again. Drain the onion slices. Arrange the butter lettuce leaves on a serving platter or in a large flat bowl. Arrange the beans, onion slices, and peppers over top.

Meanwhile, preheat the grill. Brush the tuna with 1 tablespoon of the dressing mixture. Over high heat, grill the tuna to medium rare for about 7 minutes on each side. Cut the fish on the bias into ½-inch (13-mm) thick slices and arrange them on the vegetables. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the tuna and the vegetables. Serve immediately. Serves 4.


spicy and sour squid salad

Chef Areeawn Fasudhani, of the Khan Toke Thai House in San Francisco, created this lovely dish. Note that nam pla, listed among the ingredients, is a salty fish sauce commonly used in Thai cooking. It is bottled like soy sauce and is available in Asian markets.

½ lb (250 g) cleaned and sliced squid (about 1 cup)

1 tablespoon finely chopped lemon-grass

2 tablespoons lime juice

1½ tablespoons nam pla (Thai fish sauce)

1 tablespoon sliced shallots

1 teaspoon chili powder, or finely chopped hot peppers to taste

1 teaspoon finely chopped coriander root (if available)

1 teaspoon chopped scallion (green onion)

1 teaspoon cilantro

Lettuce or cabbage leaves

10 mint leaves

Sprigs of fresh cilantro

Dip the squid into boiling water for 30 seconds; drain, then put it in a bowl. Season with the lemongrass, lime juice, nam pla, shallots, chili powder, coriander root, scallions, and cilantro. Toss lightly. Place the mixture on a serving plate next to lettuce or cabbage; decorate with the mint and cilantro leaves. Serve immediately. Eat by scooping up squid and juices together with the lettuce or cabbage leaves. Serves 2 as salad or 4 as appetizer.


jody’s sprout salad

Jody is my garden manager and a longtime sprout enthusiast. This is her wonderful salad.

For the dressing:

teaspoon salt

1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped

¼ cup (65 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

¼ teaspoon Dijon-style mustard

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the salad:

1 medium head leaf lettuce

1 small bunch spinach

1 small bunch baby red chard with stems, or ½ lb (250 g) mixed baby greens

1 cup (100 g) assorted sprouts: radish, mung, sunflower, alfalfa, or other sprouts, rinsed and drained

½ cup (40 g) slivered almonds, chopped

Garnish: nasturtium flowers and leaves

To make the dressing: In a small bowl, pour the salt over the chopped garlic and crush it with a fork to make a paste. Add the oil, vinegar, mustard, and pepper. Whisk the ingredients together until the mixture is creamy.

To make the salad: Wash and spin-dry the lettuce, spinach, and chard. Tear the leaves into bite-size pieces and place them in a large salad bowl. Sprinkle the sprouts on top. Dress and toss the salad. Garnish with nasturtium flowers and leaves. Serves 6 to 8.


spinach and watercress salad with savory mayonnaise

Robin Sanders and Bruce Naftaly at Le Gourmand restaurant in Seattle contributed this cool autumn and early spring recipe. You can add cold, moist poached chicken to this salad—it goes very well with the sage in the dressing. If you prefer a lighter flavor, substitute safflower, peanut, or corn oil for half the olive oil. In winter, use dried calendula petals as a garnish. All the ingredients except the greens must be around 70°F (20°C).

For the dressing:

2 egg yolks

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, divided

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage (optional)

1 cup (250 ml) kalamata (or other virgin) olive oil

⅓ cup (85 ml) glace de viande (dark-brown reduced brown stock)

For the salad:

A generous amount of spinach and watercress leaves for each serving in a 2:1 ratio (or substitute young nasturtium or arugula [rocket] leaves for the watercress)

Garnish: calendula petals

To make the dressing: In a large bowl, use an electric beater on medium-high speed or a whisk to beat the egg yolks well. Add 1 tablespoon of the vinegar, and the salt, pepper, and sage (if desired). While beating, very slowly add the oil and the remaining vinegar by droplets until half the oil is used; add the rest in a slow stream. Beat in the glace de viande. Remove the dressing to a storage or serving container using a rubber spatula. Refrigerate if you will not be using it immediately.

To make the salad: Warm the dressing to room temperature by beating it in a bowl before tossing it with the greens. Dress the greens to taste and garnish with calendula petals. You may have more dressing than you need; refrigerate the remainder. Serves 8 or more.

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radicchio and mâche with figs and hazelnuts

This salad is rich and filling, with a nice balance of bitter and sweet. For a party presentation, line the bowl with the radicchio, layer the mâche on top, and sprinkle on nuts and figs. Dress the salad at the table and toss.

For the dressing:

¼ cup (65 ml) hazelnut or extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

1 small head radicchio

3 cups (120 g) mâche (corn salad)

5 dried figs, divided

¼ cup (2 oz/60 g) hazelnuts

1 tablespoon baking soda

To make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper.

To make the salad: Tear the radicchio into bite-size pieces. In a large salad bowl, mix it with the mâche. Coarsely chop two of the figs and add them to the salad; halve the remaining three figs and set them aside.

To peel the hazelnuts, bring 2 cups (500 ml) of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the baking soda. Boil the hazelnuts for 5 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Drain and rinse the nuts, and rub off the skins with your fingers. Place the hazelnuts on a cookie sheet and roast them for 10 minutes, or until they’re a light brown. Cool the hazelnuts, chop them coarsely, and add them to the salad.

Pour the dressing over the salad and toss lightly. Garnish with the fig halves and serve. Serves 4 to 6.

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endive salad with oranges and pistachios

This salad is lovely on a buffet table or served as part of a light luncheon.

For the dressing:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

2 Belgian endives

1 cup (30 g) young spinach leaves

2 oranges

1 cup (90 g) red seedless grapes

¼ cup (35 g) shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped

To make the dressing: Combine the oil, vinegar, orange juice, salt, and pepper.

To make the salad: Pull apart the endive leaves. Wash and spin-dry them. Arrange the leaves in a concentric circle on a serving plate. Intersperse the spinach leaves. Peel the oranges and cut them into slices. Arrange the oranges on the endive and spinach leaves. Add the grapes and sprinkle on the pistachios. Drizzle dressing over the greens and grapes. Serves 4.

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hearty greens with pears, blue cheese, and chives

Serve this salad as a first course or increase the quantities by 50 percent and use it as the centerpiece of a luncheon menu.

For the dressing:

¼ cup (65 g) nonfat yogurt

⅓ cup (45 g) crumbled blue cheese

1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard

½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon curry powder

3 tablespoons snipped chives

1 teaspoon honey

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

4 large handfuls of mixed salad greens: lettuces, spinach, mâche (corn salad), endive, and radicchio

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 ripe, medium Comice or Bartlett pears

8 thin triangular slices of blue cheese

Garnish: chive leaves and blossoms

To make the dressing: In a small bowl, stir gently the yogurt, blue cheese, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, curry powder, chives, and honey to combine. Add salt and pepper to taste. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

To make the salad: Wash and dry the greens in a salad spinner or on paper towels. Just before serving, set out four large salad plates. Put a handful of greens on each plate. Into a small bowl, pour the lemon juice and 4 tablespoons water. Cut each pear into - to ½-inch (8–13-mm) thick slices and dip the slices into the lemon water to prevent them from browning. Arrange four to six slices of pear on top of the greens on each plate. Place two slices of blue cheese on the side of each plate. Garnish with chive leaves and blossoms. Pour the dressing in a serving bowl. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

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tangy salad with roasted garlic dressing

This salad appeals to mustard- and garlic-lovers alike. The greens are primarily members of the tangy mustard family, and the richness of the roasted garlic rounds out the flavors and gives body to the dressing.

For the dressing:

4 roasted garlic cloves (see right), peeled

1 raw garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon mustard powder

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Dash of salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

1 small head romaine lettuce

1 small head frisée

1 small bunch watercress

1 small handful tatsoi leaves

1 small handful red mustard leaves

Garnish: mustard or nasturtium flowers

To roast the garlic: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Place 1 whole head of garlic on a baking pan and roast it for 20 or 30 minutes, or until it’s soft. Cool the garlic. The pulp can now be squeezed out to use in the dressing. (Extra roasted garlic can be served as a spread for rustic bread.)

To make the dressing: Into a small mixing bowl, squeeze the roasted garlic pulp. Add the raw garlic and mustard powder and work them into a smooth paste with a spoon. Gradually stir in the olive oil and vinegar. Add salt and pepper to taste. Beat the mixture with a wire whisk until the ingredients emulsify.

To make the salad: Wash and dry the greens in a salad spinner or on paper towels. Tear the leaves into bite-size pieces and arrange them in a large salad bowl. Before serving, stir the dressing again, pour it over the greens, and toss. Garnish with the mustard or nasturtium flowers. Serves 4.

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garden celebration salad

This dish is a busy assembly project and takes lots of bowls, but it requires little in the way of technique. It provides plenty of room for creativity and makes a spectacular party salad. Some of the vegetables work best when cooked, others when raw. As with any good garden recipe, the ingredient list is fluid and can be varied by the season and by what’s in the garden or market. The salad has 5 layers of colors, each layer with a slightly different flavor combination. Suggested vegetables and herbs for the orange/gold layer include slivered carrots, chopped orange peppers, gold beets, and sliced gold tomatoes; for the yellow layer: yellow zucchini, wax beans, chopped yellow peppers, and sliced yellow tomatoes. For the green layer choose among: chopped lettuces, cabbages, baby spinach, snow pea pods, scallions, and any of the herbs: parsley, chives, basil, fennel, or savory. For the red layer I suggest: red beets, tomatoes, and peppers; and for the purple layer: chopped red cabbage, magenta radicchio, and blue potatoes.

I’ve given directions for stacking the prepared vegetables in a glass trifle bowl to reveal the colors through the sides of the bowl, but the same ingredients can be laid out on a large colorful platter instead. If you use a clear glass bowl, the moisture from the vegetables will condense on the bowl when you add hot ingredients or when you bring it out of the refrigerator. Let the bowl stand at room temperature before serving time to give the condensation time to evaporate.

For the garlic vinaigrette:

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

½ cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup (65 ml) white wine vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper and salt

For the honey vinaigrette:

¼ cup (65 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon honey

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

teaspoon red pepper flakes

For the salad:

1 lb (500 g) yellow zucchini, sliced

1 lb (500 g) yellow wax beans cut in 2-in (5-cm) sections

1 medium yellow sweet pepper, chopped

1 lb (500 g) green zucchini, sliced

1 lb (500 g) green beans cut in 2-in (5-cm) sections

4 tablespoons chopped scallion (green onion) greens

½ teaspoon minced fresh savory

1 small red cabbage, shredded

1 medium red sweet pepper, chopped

3 red paste tomatoes, sliced

⅓ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 medium orange sweet pepper, chopped

3 orange paste tomatoes, sliced

3 medium golden beets, steamed 30 minutes, peeled and sliced

To make the vinaigrettes: In two separate bowls, whisk together the ingredients for each of the vinaigrettes and set them aside.

To prepare the salad layers: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. First cook the yellow zucchini, then the yellow wax beans for 3 minutes each, or until just tender. After each batch is done remove the vegetables from the cooking water with a slotted spoon and refresh them for a couple of seconds in a bowl of ice water to keep their color. Drain the vegetables and put them in a small bowl. Add the yellow pepper and toss with ¼ cup (65 ml) of garlic vinaigrette.

Repeat the process with the green zucchini and green beans. When the vegetables are at room temperature, toss the contents of the bowl with ¼ cup (65 ml) more of garlic vinaigrette. Set aside to marinate for about 10 minutes, then sprinkle with the scallions and savory.

Mix the shredded red cabbage with the remaining garlic vinaigrette and set it aside.

In a fourth bowl, combine the red pepper, red tomato, and red pepper flakes.

In a fifth bowl combine the orange peppers, the orange tomatoes, and the golden beets.

To assemble the salad: You will need a glass bowl 5 inches (15 cm) wide and 8 inches (20 cm) deep. A traditional footed trifle bowl works well. Each layer of vegetables needs to be about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick.

Build the salad by first layering the marinated yellow vegetables 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep on the bottom. On top of this create a green layer. Create the third, purple layer with the red cabbage.

Cover with the red layer and finally the orange layer. Glaze the top of the salad with the honey dressing. Serve immediately. Serves 12 to 14 for a buffet.


henry’s salad with vietnamese coriander

Henry Tran is both a friend and landscaping contractor with whom I work. He has helped me identify a number of Vietnamese greens and herbs over the years and generously shared the traditional ways they are used in Vietnam. The following is one of his salad suggestions.

For the dressing:

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh Vietnamese coriander (rau ram)

½ teaspoon finely chopped mint or spearmint

teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

Pinch of salt

teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger root (optional)

For the salad:

2 teaspoons sugar

1 small Vidalia, Maui, or other sweet white onion, sliced paper thin

6 cups (450 g) butter lettuce, washed and dried

Garnish: 4 sprigs fresh Vietnamese coriander

To make the dressing: In a small mixing bowl, combine the rice vinegar, soy sauce, Vietnamese coriander, mint, chili flakes, salt, and the ginger, if being used.

To make the salad: Pour 1½ cups (375 ml) of water into a medium bowl. Add the sugar and stir until it has dissolved. Separate the onions into rings and add them to the bowl. Allow the mixture to sit for 30 minutes.

In a large bowl, toss the lettuce with the dressing, coating the leaves well. Divide the lettuce among four plates. Drain the onions. Divide and place them atop each serving. Garnish each salad with a sprig of Vietnamese coriander. Serves 4.

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fennel salad with red peppers

This is a basic fennel salad to which I have added the bright colors of red peppers and their wonderful depth of flavor.

For the dressing:

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons chicken stock

1 tablespoon honey

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the salad:

2 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed (1½–2 lbs/725 g–1 kg)

2 red bell peppers, thinly sliced

Garnish: fennel leaves

To make the dressing: In a small bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, chicken stock, honey, salt, and pepper and whisk them thoroughly. Set aside.

To make the salad: Wash and, if necessary, remove the tough stringy outer layer of the fennel bulbs. Set aside a few of the light green inner leaves for a garnish. Very thinly slice the fennel on a mandolin or using a sharp knife. (You should have about 1 quart/1 liter of wafer-thin slices.) To prevent discoloring, immediately dress the fennel and mix well. Allow to marinate by refrigerating for at least 2 hours before serving.

To serve, drain the fennel slightly, reserving the extra liquid. Place the fennel on a large serving plate, arrange the sliced peppers over the fennel, drizzle with the reserved dressing, and garnish with the fennel leaves. Serves 3 to 4.

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duck breast salad

This is truly an elegant salad and perfect for an intimate dinner party. It is best served as a first course and then followed by a seafood entrée.

The duck is succulent and tender if cooked to medium rare and begins to get drier and tougher as it approaches thoroughly done.

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

2 boneless duck breasts (1 lb/500 g total), skin and fat removed

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

For the greens:

1 small heart of romaine

3 cups (90 g) lightly packed spinach

2 cups (75 g) lightly packed mâche (corn salad)

1 small head frisée

For the dressing:

1 shallot, minced

1 tablespoon dry sherry

1 tablespoon red currant jelly

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic or sherry vinegar

¼ teaspoon fresh thyme

Preheat the oven to 450°F (235°C).

On a flat surface, break up the peppercorns into a coarse grind by rubbing them with the bottom rim of a small cast-iron frying pan. Rub the broken peppercorns into the sides of both duck breasts and season the meat with salt. Heat the vegetable oil to quite hot in a heavy cast-iron frying pan. Add the duck and cook one side for about 2½ minutes, or until brown. Turn the breast over and place the frying pan in the oven. Roast the duck for 6 to 8 minutes, or until medium rare.

While the duck is cooking, arrange the greens on a large platter, cover, and refrigerate.

Remove the duck from the frying pan and place on a cutting board to rest. Put the frying pan over medium heat, add the shallots, and sauté until they’re soft, about 3 minutes. Deglaze the pan with 2 tablespoons water and the sherry. Add the red currant jelly and simmer until the jelly has melted. Transfer the sauce into a bowl, add the olive oil, vinegar, and thyme. Whisk until blended.

Remove the platter of greens from the refrigerator. Slice the duck breast on a diagonal into thin slices. Slide a long spatula under one of the sliced breasts and fan the slices out over the arranged greens. Repeat the process with the other breast. Drizzle the still-warm dressing over the duck and some of the greens. Serve immediately. Serves 4.


caesar salad

Tijuana, Mexico, was the unlikely birthplace of this famous salad. It remains one of the best treatments for crisp, fresh romaine. Worcestershire sauce, not anchovies, was part of the original recipe. They are both listed here as optional; use one or the other.

For the dressing:

5 or 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, pressed

4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce (optional)

Dash of Tabasco sauce

4 to 6 anchovy filets, diced and mashed (optional)

For the salad:

1 large head romaine lettuce

1 egg, boiled 1 minute

½ teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

½ cup (50 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Garlic croutons

To make the dressing: In a large salad bowl, combine the olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and Tabasco. Add the anchovy filets, if you’re using them, and blend them well into the dressing.

To make the salad: Add the romaine to the dressing and toss. Crack the egg into the salad; sprinkle the salad with salt, pepper, and Parmesan cheese; and toss again until all the leaves are well coated. Add the croutons and toss one final time. Serves 6.


cool white salad

This recipe was created especially for me by Carole Saville, who designs culinary gardens for restaurants and writes herb books. While not traditional, it captures the spirit of Mexico.

For the dressing:

2 tablespoons lime juice

¼ teaspoon cumin

Salt to taste

Freshly ground white pepper to taste

Pinch cayenne pepper

6 tablespoons corn oil

1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped fine

For the salad:

1 large or 2 small jícamas

Garnish: slices of sweet white onion; sliced orange halves

To make the dressing: In a mixing bowl, combine lime juice, cumin, salt, white pepper, and cayenne pepper. Slowly whisk in the oil until the dressing is emulsified. Add cilantro and mix again.

To make the salad: Peel the jícama and cut it into thin matchsticks. Pour dressing over jícama and mix well. Garnish with onions and orange. Chill salad in the refrigerator. Serves 6.

Note: Jícama, a native of tropical America, is a crispy, sweet root vegetable commonly eaten raw.

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tomato and basil salad

This recipe is a regular summer feature on the menu of John Downey’s restaurant in Santa Barbara when local farmers bring John luscious ripe tomatoes and fragrant basil.

For the dressing:

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 garlic clove, minced

½ cup (20 g) coarsely chopped fresh basil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Garnish: green peppercorns (optional)

For the salad:

4 large ripe garden tomatoes, sliced

1 small sweet red onion, thinly sliced

To make the dressing: Combine the oil, vinegar, garlic, basil, and salt and pepper in a small bowl.

To make the salad: Place the tomatoes in a shallow pan. Pour the dressing over the tomatoes and let them sit for about 30 minutes, then remove them with a slotted spoon. Arrange the tomatoes on four serving plates. Divide the onion slices among the plates, garnish with peppercorns, and serve. Serves 4.

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salade niçoise

This classic salad is from the south of France; olives and anchovies betray the Mediterranean influence. The beauty of the dish is in its arrangement, which can be done on a serving platter or individual plates.

For the dressing:

4½ tablespoons red wine (or balsamic) vinegar

2 teaspoons salt, plus extra

Freshly ground black pepper

2 small garlic cloves, finely minced

10 to 12 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon

For the salad:

3 to 5 medium potatoes

1 lb (500 g/3 cups) fresh snap beans, trimmed

20 to 24 peeled baby boiling onions or a jar of pickled onions

1 head butter lettuce, washed, dried, and chilled

3 ripe tomatoes, quartered

1 cup (225 g) quality canned or grilled yellowfin tuna, chilled

3 hard-boiled eggs, halved

½ cup (70 g) Mediterranean-style olives

Garnish: Tarragon or other fresh herbs and approximately 6 canned anchovy filets

To make the dressing: In a small bowl mix the vinegar, salt and pepper, and garlic. Whisk in the oil. Add the tarragon and stir. Refrigerate.

To make the salad: Boil the whole potatoes until just tender. Drain and rinse them in cold water and slip off the skins. While they’re still warm, cut them into -inch (3-mm) slices and in a bowl gently toss with about cup (85 ml) of the vinaigrette. Set aside.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a little salt and the beans and boil them until just tender-crisp, about 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the beans from the water, run cold water over them to stop the cooking, and drain.

Add the baby onions to the boiling water and blanch them until they’re tender, about 7 minutes. Drain them.

In a small bowl toss the blanched beans and onions (if they aren’t pickled) with enough dressing to coat. Just before serving, toss the lettuce leaves with dressing to coat and arrange them on a platter or plates. Arrange the potatoes, beans, onions, tomatoes, tuna, eggs, and olives in distinct clusters on the lettuce, drizzling on the remaining vinaigrette and garnishing with fresh herbs and the anchovy filets. Serve with French bread. Serves 6.

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crab and asparagus salad with fancy greens and sorrel dressing

This is a show-off dish fit for the fanciest “do.” Fresh, fresh crab; fresh, fresh asparagus; and fresh, fresh greens all deserve this special pastry presentation.

For the puff pastry shell:

6 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup (100 g) flour

4 eggs

For the dressing:

1 cup (250 ml) mayonnaise

¼ cup (65 ml) yogurt

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

1 garlic clove, minced or pressed

1 tablespoon grated onion

¾ cup (30 g) sorrel, finely chopped

½ teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

For the salad:

1 lb (500 g) asparagus

1 medium head romaine lettuce

1 lb (500 g) Alaska king crab meat (about 3 cups)

½ lb (250 g) mixed young greens such as mâche (corn salad), baby butter lettuce or spinach, and tatsoi

To make the pastry: Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C).

In a 2-quart (2-liter) saucepan, bring 1 cup (250 ml) water to a boil over high heat. Add the butter and salt. As soon as the butter has melted, take the pan off the heat and add the flour all at once. Using a wooden spoon, stir the mixture quickly until the flour is completely blended. Put the pan back over medium-high heat and beat the dough until it comes away from the sides of the pan and forms a loose ball. Remove the pan from the heat. Let it cool for 5 minutes. Stir in the eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly after each addition. The dough will appear to break apart with each egg but will reform with vigorous stirring. The eggs should be completely incorporated and the dough smooth and glossy.

Spoon the dough into a buttered 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan and spread it evenly over the bottom and up the sides a few inches. Bake for 40 minutes. Turn off the oven. Prick the pastry with a wooden pick in at least a dozen places and leave it in the oven to dry for 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and let it cool completely. Remove the sides of the pan. (This pastry shell may be made up to a day ahead.) Wrap the pastry loosely in aluminum foil and store it in a warm, dry place. Before using, crisp it in a 400°F (205°C) oven for 5 minutes.

To make the dressing: Blend all the dressing ingredients in a small bowl. If the dressing is too thick, thin it with a tablespoon or so of cream or milk.

To make the salad: Wash the asparagus and cut the spears into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces on a diagonal. Cook the asparagus in boiling water for 4 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Wash, dry, and separate romaine lettuce leaves. Set aside six of the tender inside leaves and coarsely chop the rest. You should have about 2 cups (150 g), chopped.

Combine the asparagus, crabmeat, and chopped romaine lettuce in a bowl. Mix with 1 cup (250 ml) of the dressing and refrigerate for up to 1 hour. Just before serving, place the pastry shell on a very large platter and fill it with the crab mixture. Surround the pastry shell with the remaining romaine leaves and the assorted young greens. Pour the remaining dressing in a small pitcher to be used on the greens. Serves 6.