Major Grapes & Secret Aliases: What’s in the Bottle & What To Expect
Do you remember the first time you bought a beer you’d never tried before, or even heard of? Maybe it was a bock, or a bitter, or a Belgian dubbel or a barley wine. It might have been an IPA or an ESB or perhaps an Irish amber or a Dortmunder export. And you may have been delighted with your purchase, discovering a beverage that was new, different and delicious. Or maybe not. If you were expecting a clean, clear swallow of pilsner-like purity and instead got a smoky, meaty mouthful of märzen rauchbier, you may have wondered how a beer could taste like a ham sandwich toasted over a burning tire and why such a thing should even exist.
Had someone given you a heads-up and provided you with advance info as to what those beers were all about, it might have led to a better tasting experience or at least kept you from slowing down your experimentation when nothing seemed to be what you had expected. So it follows that a brief look at grape types and wine styles should assist the novice guzzler in choosing the wines he or she is most interested in trying and most likely to enjoy.
It should also prevent confusion about what’s actually in the many types of wine that don’t name the grape or grapes used to produce them. Most of these are Old World wines (European) that have long been named for their place of origin or production. New World wines, on the other hand (practically everything other than European), are typically labeled varietally, so as a consumer you have a head start on judging what’s being poured into your glass.
Because while the manner and location of growing wine grapes—how densely together the vines are planted, how severely they’re pruned, how much water they’re given, what kind of soil they’re planted in, etc. (collectively known as viticulture)—and the way in which they’re fermented and aged—in an open or closed container, with natural or introduced yeast, at high temperature or low, aged in oak barrels or stainless steel (collectively known as viniculture)—have a major impact on the way a wine tastes, the biggest determinant of wine flavor is the variety of grape from which it’s made.
While on the subject of New World vs. Old, it’s helpful to understand that New World wines tend to be more fruit-driven, often with higher alcohol levels, while Old World examples strive for a more restrained commingling of multiple elements, including the fruit but also incorporating minerality, balance, terroir, etc. Neither style is right or wrong, though many people do prefer one over the other. And New or Old World labels aside, there are winemakers in Australia or America who favor an Old World approach and winemakers in Europe who are just as committed to showcasing the wine’s fruit.
Just as certain cultivars of hops are referred to as the noble hops—specifically Hallertau, Tettnanger, Spalt, and Saaz, each named for the region or city where they are primarily grown—and so designated as they’re used more for their aromatic effects than as bittering agents in beer, so too does the wine world have its noble varietals.
In truth, this designation isn’t much used anymore, for a variety of reasons, but it typically refers to grapes capable of producing not just good but great wines, and of being successfully grown in multiple regions and terroirs. Though many “authorities” insist on including Chenin Blanc, Sémillon and/or Syrah on the list, all will agree that Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir comprise the six classic noble grapes.
The Most-Likely-To-Encounter White Varieties
- Chardonnay—easily grown, a worldwide favorite, relatively high alcohol, not overly aromatic; shows green apple, pear, grapefruit and notes of honey when sourced from a cool climate; mango, melon, peach and pineapple with a definite fullness when grown in warmer climes. The white grape mostly likely to be oak-aged, which adds a layer of smokiness, butterscotch, and toast as well as deepening the hue to a lovely golden yellow.
- Riesling—prefers a cool climate, best examples from Germany, Austria, Alsace, Australia, Washington state. Dazzling acidity and crisp flavors are its hallmark. Seldom oaked, pale color, very aromatic, may smell of petrol and wet slate, can be sweet, off-dry or dry, with a quite minerally character. Peach, green apple, lime, grapefruit, and lychee are common descriptors.
- Sauvignon Blanc—has great personality, best from the Loire Valley of France, New Zealand, Italy, South Africa, Australia, Chile, and the U.S., medium-pale straw color, has a wonderful herbal freshness, high notes of cut grass, green pepper and kiwi. The best are also minerally and complex.
- Pinot Grigio—also known as Pinot Gris, not widely grown outside Italy, Alsace, and the U.S., mainly Oregon, good acidity, low alcohol, can be pale, even with hints of pink, and muted both in nose and mouth. When treated with respect, as in Alsace, it tends to deeper color and a richer, slightly spicy, honeyed character.
- Sémillon—at its best in the Bordeaux region of France, a small amount is grown in Australia (of very good quality), South Africa, the U.S. Can be quite viscous. Dry versions are fresh and citrusy with a hint of nuttiness when young, acquiring a marvelous golden-orangey hue and a waxy, butterscotch quality with age. It’s as a dessert wine, however, infected with noble rot (the fungus Botrytis cinerea that concentrates the grapes’ sugars) that Sémillon reaches its highest expression.
- Chenin Blanc—France, South Africa, made in every style from bone-dry to sweet dessert, aggressive acidity but with surprising fullness and texture, very long-lived, best enjoyed within a couple of years of vintage or after 10 years or more, shows more mineral and flowers than fruit, tremendous complexity when mature.
- Gewürztraminer—Alsace, Italy, Germany, Austria, Canada, U.S., a wine you either love or don’t, hugely aromatic. The best have gigantic aromas of roses, orange blossom, spices, perfume. Very viscous, medium coppery-yellow color, could sometimes use more acid, a dramatic, enticing varietal when well made.
- Grüner Veltliner—Austria, Austria, and Austria, aka “Groovy,” undergoing a surge in popularity, pale-yellow with greenish highlights, high acidity, good mouth feel, a bit peppery, may show lentil or green pea, citrus, or honey; a wine-bar favorite.
- Albariño—Spain, Portugal, wonderfully light, good acidity and alcohol, apricots, citrus, white peach, quite aromatic, can finish with a touch of bitterness.
- Viognier—all about the aromatics, France, Australia, U.S., high alcohol, low acidity, full-bodied, effusive, perfumey nose of violets, peaches, apricot, very floral, best enjoyed within a year of release.
The Most-Likely-To-Encounter Red Varieties
- Cabernet Sauvignon—the king of varietals, France, Italy, U.S., Australia, Chile, and to some degree nearly everywhere else, likes good sunlight, can be bold or elegant, medium- to full-bodied, dark-hued, excellent tannic structure, good aromas, black currant, black cherry, dark berries, hints of graphite, cedar, cigar box, mint, green pepper, immensely popular and widespread.
- Pinot Noir—traditionally about elegance and delicacy, France, U.S. (California, Oregon), Australia, at its best in cooler climes, lighter-hued, has noticeable acidity, light- to medium-bodied, perfumey, barnyard, red fruit and spice, supple mouth feel, rich flavors, cherry, strawberry, blackberry, tea.
- Merlot—plush, fleshy, the “second” red grape of Bordeaux and much of the world, dark color, moderate tannins, tends toward the low end of the acidity scale, very fruity, plums, cocoa, even a touch earthy, known for its velvety, silky texture.
- Syrah/Shiraz—Syrah in its French homeland, Shiraz in South Africa, Australia, and either one in South America, U.S. and the rest of the world; deep-hued, brooding, big-shouldered, big tannins, full-bodied, can have gorgeous, almost flowery aromas, shows meaty black-pepper notes, rich, dark fruit, chocolate, a succulent, characterful mouth feel.
- Sangiovese—the “blood of Jove,” Italy’s most widely planted red grape, medium-hued, develops an orangey rim, lovely fresh flavors of red cherry, sour cherry, cranberries, a bit of earthiness, tea and spices, even suggestions of chocolate and orange on the finish, great acidity, an ideal food wine.
- Zinfandel—quintessentially Californian, kissing cousin to Italian Primitivo, usually good tannins and acidity. Often with very high alcohol, so balance and sweetness can be problems. Dark-hued, bursting with raspberries, blackberries, cinnamon, baking spices, even prunes or raisins. Enjoy young.
- Tempranillo—Spain’s main squeeze, goes by half a dozen regional names, also in Portugal, Argentina, deep-colored, neither overly alcoholic nor tannic, can have lovely aromatics, raspberries, dark cherries, cocoa, coffee, tobacco, plums, commonly oak-aged, adding vanilla, dill and spice notes.
- Nebbiolo—icon of Piedmont, northern regions of Italy, produces some of the world’s greatest wines, hugely tannic, acidic, needs age to soften and reach its drinking peak, complex, distinctive nose, roses, cherries, tar, forest floor, leather, mushrooms, exotic, powerful.
- Cabernet Franc—the cool-climate Cabernet, Bordeaux and the Loire Valley in France, Italy, U.S., Chile, New Zealand; spicy, violets, raspberry, medium color and body, often used as a blender, lithe and tasty, tends to leanness in cooler vintages.
- Garnacha/Grenache—Garnacha in its homeland of Spain, Cannonau in Sardinia, Grenache in France, Australia and elsewhere; juicy, flashy, high alcohol, low tannins and acidity, likes warm weather and dry soil, may show pepper, coffee and olives along with distinct raspberry, strawberry, black currant, not for long aging, also makes excellent rosé.
- Gamay—only major grape vinified primarily by the carbonic maceration process, a hallmark of modern Beaujolais. Bright purplish-red, low tannin, high acid, light- to medium-bodied, aromas and flavors of raspberry, strawberry, bubble gum, bananas, works well as a warm-weather quaffing wine.
- Malbec—aka Côt or Auxerrois, originally a blending grape in Bordeaux, main varietal in Cahors (also in France), has found worldwide acclaim in Argentina, dark, almost black-hued, good acid, prominent tannins, lush, fruity, mulberry, blackberry, violets.
This section could go on for hundreds of pages, as there are literally thousands of grape varieties used to make wine in various parts of the world. Even the experts regularly come across grape types they’ve never heard of. And not only haven’t they heard of them, but they often can’t tell whether the grapes produce red wines or white.
As a newcomer to the world of wine, never feel embarrassed or lacking in knowledge because someone throws an unknown wine or grape name at you. Just tell them that you’ve never tasted that particular varietal and ask where the grape comes from and how it might best be described. In the end, that’s how we all learn.
The grape varieties listed and briefly described above will cover the bulk of what you’ll encounter. Now when a bottle says Malbec or Merlot or Pinot Noir, you’ll have an idea of what to expect. If the varietal name isn’t on the wine’s front label, look on the back. Wines, especially blended wines, will often give you grape types and percentages on the bottle’s back label.
New World wines are usually identified by varietal, making your task easier. However, for many wines from Spain, France, Italy and other regions, the wine name may have nothing to do with the grapes within. The section that follows provides an alphabetical list of common wine names and the grape varieties they comprise. So read, drink, and be merry!
Common Wines and Their Varietal Components
- Amarone (Italy)—Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara, dried
- Barbaresco (Italy)—Nebbiolo
- Barolo (Italy)—Nebbiolo
- Beaujolais (France)—Gamay
- Bordeaux, Left Bank (red, France)—Cabernet Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot
- Bordeaux, Right Bank (red, France)—Merlot, with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon
- Bordeaux (white, France)—Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc
- Brunello di Montalcino (Italy)—Sangiovese
- Burgundy (red, France)—Pinot Noir
- Burgundy (white, France)—Chardonnay
- Cava (Spain)—Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo
- Chablis (France)—Chardonnay
- Champagne (France)—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France)—Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and up to ten other allowable varieties
- Chianti (Italy)—Sangiovese, may include a percentage of Canaiolo, Colorino and other minor grapes
- Chinon (France)—Cabernet Franc
- Condrieu (France)—Viognier
- Cornas (France)—Syrah
- Côte-Rôtie (France)—Syrah, may contain a small percentage of Viognier
- Côtes du Rhone (France)—Grenache, Syrah, varying amounts of Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault, and others
- Crozes-Hermitage (France)—Syrah
- Gavi (Italy)—Cortese
- Gigondas (France)—Grenache, Syrah and/or Mourvèdre and others
- GSM (Australia)—Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre
- Hermitage (France)—Syrah
- Jumilla (Spain)—Monastrell, Garnacha
- Langhe Rosso (Italy)—Nebbiolo, Barbera and/or Cabernet Sauvignon
- Meritage (U.S.)—a Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and/or Malbec, Petit Verdot
- Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Italy)—Montepulciano
- Morellino di Scansano (Italy)—Sangiovese
- Port (Portugal, sweet)—Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão—
up to 80 allowable varietals - Pouilly-Fumé (France)—Sauvignon Blanc
- Pouilly-Fuissé (France)—Chardonnay
- Priorat (Spain)—Garnacha, Cariñena and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah
- Ribera del Duero (Spain)—Tempranillo and/or Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon
- Rioja (Spain)—Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo
- Rosso di Montalcino (Italy)—Sangiovese
- Sancerre (France)—Sauvignon Blanc
- Sauternes (sweet, France)—Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
- Savennières (France)—Chenin Blanc
- Sherry (Spain)—Palomino; Pedro Ximénez for sweet styles
- Soave (Italy)—Garganega
- Taurasi (Italy)—Aglianico
- Tokaji (sweet, Hungary)—Furmint
- Vacqueyras (France)—Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and others
- Valpolicella (Italy)—Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
- Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Italy)—Sangiovese
- Vouvray (France)—Chenin Blanc
And so many others. But this will provide a good start, whether you want to look for a specific type of wine or discover your own personal favorites.
