You can add some character to a board by sanding random corners and edges heavier, giving it a rustic feel.
You can add some character to a board by sanding random corners and edges heavier, giving it a rustic feel.
Have a pattern or project in mind before you choose your board, so you can plan the size of the board accordingly. It’s a good idea to print out your pattern beforehand to use as a sizing reference.
Look for a surface that won’t be terribly difficult to nail into and that can hold the nails in place. My favorite is pine wood; I like the weight, the feel, and that beautiful grain! One thing to look out for when choosing your piece are knots. Personally I like the look of knots, but nailing into one can be a challenge; I’ve bent nail after nail learning this. However, if you have your board planned out so your pattern works around them, knots can be a nice addition to your art.
Start with a piece of wood that has one of your dimensions already done for you. For example, if you’re making a string art design that will be 8" (20.5cm) wide by 24" (61cm) tall, you’ll start with a 1" (2.5cm) thick wood board that measures 8" (20.5cm) × 6' (1.8m)—or whatever length you have, longer than 24" (61cm)—and cut it to 24" (61cm) long.
Important note: When you buy a board—for example, a 1" × 10" (2.5cm × 25.5cm)—the board is never actually 10" (25.5cm) wide; it’s usually about 9.5" (24cm). This is because when the board is first rough sawn from the log, it is that size, but the drying and planing of the board reduces it. You’ll notice in the projects in this book that I’ll show the actual size of the board we are using, but I’ll refer to the board by the size it’s sold as.
Once your piece is cut, you’ll want to sand the edges to give it a finished look. If you have an electric sander, this is a quick step, but sanding by hand works fine, too. Starting with medium-grit sandpaper, sand the edges and front to smooth.
Follow up with fine-grit sandpaper until your board is clean and smooth to the touch. Be sure to dust the board clean of sawdust after, so it doesn’t get trapped in your stain and create clumps.
Choose your stain or paint color with your project string colors in mind. Contrasting colors always make for great impact, making your string art more noticeable from a distance. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific stain. A foam brush comes in very handy at this point for application, especially with oil-based stain.
I usually apply two coats of stain. See how you like the color after each coat has been given time to set. Dry time is usually twenty-four hours for oil-based stains and only a few hours for water-based. Again, consult your stain manufacturer’s instructions to be sure.
Once your piece is dry, add a clear coat for a more finished look. One coat is usually enough, but take a look after it dries. The nice thing about water-based clear coat is that it dries so fast. If you used paint, many brands have a finish in them already and may not need a clear coat.
You may be tempted to add the hanging hardware at this stage—don’t. You’ll want the board to sit flush on a table when you are hammering in your nails later.
With the board finished, you’re ready to start your artwork.