Sometimes, in the West, fish and seafood get a bad rap. Many people associate them with diet and sacrifice. Their obvious health benefits and low fat content do make them popular with dieters. And for people who have given up meat either for health or spiritual reasons, fish is the go-to substitute. It is rare that one hears of a celebratory meal with fish as a main course.
In countries surrounding the Mediterranean Sea, however, things couldn’t be more different. There, serving fish alone is a celebration, and seafood is at the heart of many holidays, from Christmas Eve in Italy to the Eid al Fitr in Egypt. During the Ottoman period (thirteenth to twentieth centuries) in Turkey, there were special chefs called balikci who prepared only fish.
The sea and its bounty have always been integral to the livelihood of the region. In addition to providing food, the Mediterranean Sea was an ancient highway that connected continents and enabled trade between countries. To this day, fishing, often even the oldfashioned kind, is an important profession for men in coastal towns, and it is taken very seriously. Fishermen in the region bring their catch to shore early in the morning. Restaurateurs and housewives buy something that was caught within a matter of hours, and cook it the same day. In addition, many fishermen use traditional methods that are more environmentally sound and beneficial to the community.
The reverence that Mediterranean peoples share for bodies of water was evident even in ancient times. Living in harmony with the sea was very important to the cultures of the region. Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans paid close attention to marine biology, as do their modern descendants—today’s Italian news, for example, reports on migratory patterns of fish on a weekly basis.
The ancient Egyptians used to worship a Nile god called Hapi. They believed he was responsible for the biannual flooding of the river that provided natural irrigation—therefore causing a wide variety of produce and grains to flourish. In order to thank Hapi for being so generous, the Egyptians held Nile festivals each July, during which time they forbade anyone to fish or remove anything from the water. Instead, special prayers and incantations were cast into the Nile in a sacred statement of gratitude. When sunset came and the festivities began, people were once again able to take from the Nile. To this day, fish and seafood are beloved foods in Egypt, often incorporated into holidays.
When Greek and Roman powers came to be in Egypt, the Egyptian reverence for the Nile was adapted to the Mediterranean, and many of the ancient deities were associated with the power of the water. With the rise of Christianity, Italians and other coastal dwellers transformed their ancient beliefs into Christian ones. Instead of gods, the locals assigned the Virgin Mary or various saints to their seashores. They would hold special vigils to give thanks to the water, often casting statues, prayers, and flowers onto the water to give thanks for its gifts, just the way the Egyptians had done millennia before. Even today, in many places in the Mediterranean, vigils are held, and communities congregate en masse to pray for fuller nets and to make safe trips.
The Mediterranean diet recommends eating fish and seafood often, at a minimum of two times per week. High in protein and low in calories, fish is an excellent choice for anyone trying to gain muscle, lose weight, or increase brain function. Fish is full of omega-3 fatty acids, which the body requires to function, yet cannot produce on its own. They are known to lower triglycerides and blood pressure, and reduce blood clotting and risk of stroke and heart failure.
Consuming fish as little as once a week promotes body wellness and positive health benefits. But a 2011 study found that a single extra serving of fish per week can reduce heart disease risk by 50 percent. According to Hypertension: Journal of the American Heart Association, women who didn’t eat fish regularly had 50 percent more heart problems, three times greater risk for disease, and higher blood fat levels than those who did.
In addition to omega-3s, seafood has essential nutrients such as zinc (immune-system support), potassium (heart health), selenium (anti-cancer protection), and iodine (for thyroid function), along with vitamins A (vision, organ function, immune support) and D (bone strength, nutrient absorption, disease prevention). Additional benefits of omega-3 and fish consumption have been shown to:
• potentially lower the risk of Alzheimer’s disease, dementia, and decreased cognitive function
• subdue the symptoms of ADHD (poor concentration, reading skills, and negative behavior)
• relieve and prevent asthma symptoms
• keep skin nourished and hair lustrous
• help reverse UV damage from sun exposure
• enhance mood, including depression, postpartum depression, and Seasonal Affective Disorder
• protect the vision of those suffering from Age-Related Macular Degeneration
• prevent inflammation and improve rheumatoid arthritis
With all of these healthful reasons to consume more fish, many still avoid it altogether for fear of mercury levels and unclean water. When purchasing fish, one has to take mercury levels, health benefits, and the water sources into account in order to make an informed decision. With no single guide currently available to analyze all three factors, the Environmental Defense Fund does produce a Seafood Selector, and Monterey Bay Aquarium created a Seafood Watch program that addresses mercury levels and water cleanliness. I am an advocate of the freshest local seafood possible, or imports from safe sources. I strongly encourage shoppers to educate themselves as much as possible to make the best choices and reap the most health rewards.
A serving size of fish is 3.5 ounces (100 g). I’ve developed quick-cooking recipes with maximum flavor and health benefits that win over even the toughest critics. With these simple, flavorful, and healthful recipes, seafood will become an easy go-to meal for a busy weeknight. For safety reasons, cook seafood to an internal temperature of 145°F (63°C) for 15 seconds, or until flaky, opaque, and no longer translucent.
Moroccan–Style Grilled Tuna/Samak bil ChermoulaWhen we think of Moroccan cuisine, lamb, couscous, and tajines usually come to mind. Bordering both the Mediterranean Sea and Atlantic Ocean, however, Morocco offers a wonderful array of flavors from the sea. This recipe features chermoula sauce, a Moroccan classic that tastes great on both chicken and fish. If you prefer to make this dish in the oven, instead of grilling it, simply place the fish in a greased baking dish, top with chermoula, cover with aluminum foil, and bake in a 425°F (220°C) oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until cooked through.
2 tablespoons (2 g) finely chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons (8 g) finely chopped parsley
6 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 lemon, juiced and zested
3 tablespoons (45 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4 tuna steaks (4 ounces, or 115 g each)
Yield: 4 servings
In a medium bowl, mix the cilantro, parsley, garlic, salt, paprika, and lemon juice and zest together. Whisk in the olive oil.
Place the fish in a glass baking dish and pour half of the chermoula sauce over the top. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to marinate for 1 hour.
Preheat grill to medium-high heat.
Grill the fish, turning once, until firm, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a platter, spread with the remaining chermoula sauce, and let stand for 5 minutes to absorb the flavors.
Psari Plaki means “baked fish” in Greek. This recipe is a traditional Greek-style fish that is baked with a variety of savory ingredients—making it a perfect meal in one. Popular throughout Greece nowadays, this dish is made from a wide variety of fish including salted cod, sea bass, mullet, halibut, and red snapper. For convenience, fish fillets can be substituted, and freshwater fish from lakes, such as trout, is also often used.
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra olive oil, plus 1 teaspoon, divided
1 bunch of fresh parsley, chopped
4 medium Yukon gold potatoes (2 pounds, or 910 g), cut into wedges
2 Cubanelle peppers, sliced into rings
2 medium tomatoes, diced
3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped, plus 2 additional cloves, chopped, if using whole fish
1/4 cup (16 g) fresh oregano, finely chopped, or 1 tablespoon (3 g) dried
1 whole fish such as cod or red snapper (2 1/2 pounds, or 1.1 kg), scaled and gutted
or
6 cod, red snapper, sea bass, or halibut fillets (1/3 pound, or 152 g, each)
1 medium tomato, halved and cut into slices
2 tablespoons (16 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
Unrefined sea salt or salt
Freshly ground pepper
Yield: 6 servings
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease the bottom of a large baking dish with 1 teaspoon olive oil. Place a handful of freshly chopped parsley, potatoes, pepper slices, diced tomatoes, 3 cloves garlic, and 1 tablespoon (4 g) oregano on the bottom of the pan, layering each one on top of the other.
If using a whole fish: Season the fish (inside and out) with salt and pepper and fill the cavity with remaining garlic, parsley, and oregano. Place the fish on the bed of herbs and vegetables, and arrange the slices of tomatoes around the fish.
If using fillets: Season with salt and pepper and lay on top of vegetable mixture. Arrange the slices of tomatoes around the fish.
Add the remaining 1/4 cup (60 ml) of olive oil, flour, and paprika into a small bowl or measuring cup and whisk vigorously to incorporate. Pour the mixture over the fish. Pour 1/2 cup (120 ml) of water over all the herbs and vegetables on the sides of the pan.
Season with salt and ground pepper, and bake 40 to 45 minutes for whole fish or 20 to 25 minutes for fillets, or until the fish is opaque and flakes easily when pierced with a fork. Carefully remove the fish from the baking dish and serve each plate with a fillet of the fish on top of a bed of vegetables. Spoon the sauce from the baking dish over the top and sides to finish.
Italian Halibut with Grapes and Olive Oil/Pesce al forno con l’uvaCreative chefs in Italian coastal regions sometimes replace grapes for the tomatoes in a dish called pesce in acqua pazza or “fish in crazy water.” It’s called crazy water because crushed red chilies give the cooking water a kick. Typically, freshly caught sea bream is used, although I have substituted halibut for its easy access and high omega-3 content in this recipe. It’s said that this dish can transport someone from a rainy day in London to the sunny Italian Riviera.
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4 boneless halibut fillets, 4 ounces (115 g) each
4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 small red chile pepper, finely chopped
2 cups (300 g) seedless green grapes
A handful of fresh basil leaves, roughly torn
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Yield: 4 servings
Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add the halibut, followed by the garlic, chile pepper, grapes, basil, and the salt and pepper. Pour in 1 3/4 cups (410 ml) of water, turn the heat down to medium-low, cover, and cook the fish until opaque, or for 7 minutes on each side.
Remove the fish from the pan and place on a large serving dish. Raise the heat, cook the sauce for 30 seconds to concentrate the flavors slightly. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. Pour sauce over the fish.
Sicilian Swordfish Bundles/Involtini di pesce spadaSwordfish is one of the most traditional fish in the southern Italian diet. Although it can be eaten at any time of year, it is often a part of the Feast of the Seven Fishes custom celebrated on Christmas Eve (see Mediterranean Tradition).
4 tablespoons (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup (226 g) chopped boxed tomatoes, such as Pomi brand
1 cup (226 g) strained boxed tomatoes, such as Pomi brand
4 tablespoons (36 g) toasted pine nuts, divided
2 tablespoons (5 g) freshly chopped basil
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt, divided
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Dash of crushed dried red chili flakes
2 boneless swordfish fillets (3/4 pound, or 340 g), placed in freezer for 30 minutes for easier slicing
2 tablespoons (6 g) Fresh Bread Crumbs (see page 182)
2 tablespoons (15 g) grated Pecorino Romano
2 tablespoons (18 g) raisins, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes and drained
1 tablespoon (10 g) finely chopped onion
2 tablespoons (8 g) chopped fresh, flat-leaf Italian parsley, divided
1/4 cup (22 g) finely chopped fennel
2 anchovy fillets, chopped
Yield: 4 servings
Heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until it releases its aroma, 30 to 60 seconds—do not let garlic turn brown.
Stir in the chopped and strained tomatoes, 2 tablespoons (18 g) pine nuts, basil, 1/4 teaspoon salt, pepper, and chili flakes, stir, and cover. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes.
With a filleting knife, carefully and neatly slice the swordfish fillets crosswise once into about 1/8-inch (3 mm) thick slices. Cut each piece in half to make 4 pieces.
Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of olive oil, bread crumbs, Pecorino, raisins, remaining pine nuts, remaining salt, onion, parsley, fennel, and anchovies in a small bowl, and mix well to combine.
Place the fish pieces on a work surface covered with waxed paper or on a large plastic cutting board, and spread 1 tablespoon (12 g) of the bread crumb mixture on each piece of fish. Press down firmly with your hands, so that the filling sticks.
Carefully tuck in the sides of fish. The sides must be firmly tucked in so that the filling doesn’t escape. Starting at the wide end, roll up the fish, completely encasing the filling. Use toothpicks or skewers to secure the rolls.
Slowly remove lid from tomato sauce and add the rolls into simmering sauce. Cover and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, turning once, or until fish is cooked through.
Transfer the fish to a serving platter, remove skewers, and top with the remaining sauce.
Trout Cooked in Parchment/Trota al cartoccioMoist and flavorful, this easy-to-clean cooking method is popular all over Italy. Trout is one of the fish with some of the highest amounts of omega-3s.
4 (4 ounces, or 115 g, each) trout fillets
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
8 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped
1/2 cup (30 g) finely chopped fresh parsley
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
1/3 cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
Freshly ground pepper
Lemon wedges
Yield: 4 servings
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Combine the garlic, sage, parsley, lemon zest and juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Cut four pieces of parchment paper—each more than double the size of the trout.
Place 1 trout on top of each piece of parchment and equally distribute 1/4 of garlic herb mixture on each fish. Brush any remaining garlic herb mixture over the fish and fold the parchment over the fish. Fold and crimp the edges to seal tightly and place in a baking dish.
Bake about 10 minutes, until fish is cooked through. Remove from the oven, and serve with lemon wedges, allowing guests to open their own individual packages at the table.
Citrus–Marinated Salmon with Fennel Cream/Salmone agli agrumi con crema di finocchioOrange and salmon are a match made in heaven. The sweet citrus flavors combine with the rich, oily textures in the salmon for a healthful dish that seems too decadent to be good for you. Fennel and yogurt are two popular Mediterranean ingredients that are as virtuous as they are delicious.
2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) orange juice
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
Freshly ground pepper
4 salmon fillets (4 ounces, or 115 g, each), skin-on
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced (reserve fronds)
1/2 sweet onion, thinly sliced
1 cup (230 g) plain Greek yogurt
2 oranges, 1 zested, 1 thinly sliced
Yield: 4 servings
In a small bowl, whisk the olive oil, orange juice, salt, and pepper together until emulsified.
Place the salmon fillets in a glass baking dish and pour marinade over the top. Allow to marinate for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
Scatter fennel and onion around the sides of the salmon, and cover the baking dish with aluminum foil. Bake until the fish flakes easily with a fork and is opaque in color, 20 to 25 minutes.
While the fish is baking, combine the Greek yogurt with 2 tablespoons (6 g) fennel fronds, finely chopped, and orange zest.
Remove the fish from oven and place on a serving plate. Dollop each with about 1/4 of yogurt mixture and garnish with orange slices.
Mussels in Tomato–Saffron Broth/Moules ProvencalesIf you’ve never made mussels before, you’ll be surprised at how easy it is. Buy the freshest mussels possible, preferably the day you’re using them. If your local purveyor only sells muscles in a mesh bag, buy more than you need, as the bags make it seem as if all the mussels crammed into it are closed (living), but this isn’t always the case. Scrub mussels with a clean kitchen brush and rinse under cold water. Use only mussels that are closed and have no cracks. (If a mussel is only slightly open, tap it on the kitchen counter; if it closes up within a minute or two, it is safe to use.)
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fresh thyme
2 teaspoons fresh oregano
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed in a mortar to release aroma
1/4 teaspoon saffron
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon fresh orange zest
1/2 pound (225 g) tomatoes, peeled and diced
2 cups (475 ml) Seafood Stock (see page 183)
1/2 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper
1 pound (455 g) fresh mussels, scrubbed and beards removed
1/4 cup (15 g) fresh parsley, finely chopped, for garnish
Yield: 4 servings
Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the thyme, oregano, fennel, saffron, garlic, and orange zest, and cook, uncovered, until the garlic begins to release its aroma, 1 to 2 minutes.
Stir in the tomatoes, stock, salt, and pepper, and bring to a boil over high heat.
Stir, add in the mussels, cover, and cook for 7 to 10 minutes, until the mussels are open completely. Resist the urge to open the cover and check the mussels often. Each time you release steam it adds on to the cooking time and could yield tough mussels. I usually check the first time by carefully removing the lid with the steam releasing away from me. If mussels aren’t open, I quickly recover them, and allow them to cook for a few more minutes.
When mussels are ready, they are completely open. If you have some open mussels and other closed ones, remove the cooked ones with a ladle and allow the rest to continue to cook. If any still refuse to open after 10 minutes, discard them.
Taste the broth, and adjust salt and pepper if necessary. Pour into individual cups or bowls, and add mussels. Sprinkle the tops with fresh parsley. I like to serve it with toasted bread crostini slathered with Aioli Herb Sauce (page 95).
Sizzling Rosemary Shrimp over Polenta/Gamberi al rosmarino con polentaThink of this recipe as the Mediterranean cousin of shrimp and grits. The savory, flash-sautéed shrimp taste great on their own as a tapa along with the Olive, Almond, and Goat Cheese Tapas (page 101), or tossed into spaghetti or linguine with olive oil and lemon zest. Serving them over polenta, a traditional staple in Italy since the sixteenth century, rounds out the meal.
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 pounds (680 g) prawns or jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 teaspoons freshly chopped rosemary
Dash of crushed red chili flakes
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups cooked polenta (see page 182)
Yield: 6 Servings
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and stir. Add the prawns or shrimp, rosemary, chili flakes, salt, and pepper.
Cook, uncovered, for about 2 minutes per side, or until prawns or shrimp turn pink. Spoon the polenta onto a serving platter evenly, and flatten with the back of a spoon. Place prawns or shrimp on the top of the plate and serve immediately.
Greek Island–Style Stuffed Calamari with Rice and Herbs/Yemisto Kalamari me VoutiroBaby squid are surprisingly simple to prepare. If you’ve only eaten fried calamari, you’ll love this light, healthful version with its flavors are straight from the Aegean Islands. The tender texture of the calamari in this unique dish lends itself to a straightforward cooking style. You may also cook full-size squid this way, but you will need to increase the filling quantities and cooking time.
2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
1 pound (455 g) fresh spinach
1/4 cup (50 g) short-grain rice
2 tablespoons (8 g) freshly chopped parsley
2 tablespoons (15 g) freshly chopped dill
1 teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
Freshly ground pepper
Dash of crushed red chili flakes
1 pound (455 g) baby squid, tentacles removed, and cleaned
2 cups (475 ml) Vegetable or Seafood Stock (see page 183)
Yield: 4 servings
Heat 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of olive oil in a large, wide skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes.
Add the spinach, rice, parsley, dill, salt, pepper, and red chili flakes and cook for 1 minute. Take the mixture off the heat and allow to cool slightly.
Stuff the calamari three-quarters of the way full with stuffing. Secure the top with a toothpick, leaving a little bit of room between the toothpick and the top of the stuffing for the rice to expand while cooking.
Heat the remaining olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Brown the calamari on all sides.
Add the stock, cover, and simmer on low until cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender to the bite and the calamari are cooked through. Serve warm.
Citrus–Marinated Scallops/Capesante marinate al limoneThis delicious and impressive dish can be cooked in minutes and served as an appetizer or main course. These scallops also taste great when tossed into a salad or pasta, rice, and other grain-based dishes. In the United States, scallops are sometimes soaked in the preservative trisodium phosphate (TSP), which makes them weigh more, and consequently cost more. TSP also makes scallops exude moisture as they cook, thereby causing them to steam rather than sear properly. Look for scallops labeled dry, that is, not soaked in TSP.
Juice and zest of 2 lemons
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Unrefined sea salt or salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 clove garlic, minced
1 1/2 pounds (680 g) dry scallops, side muscle removed
Yield: 4 servings
In a large shallow bowl or baking dish, combine the lemon juice and zest, olive oil, salt, pepper, and garlic. Mix well to combine. Add the scallops to the marinade; cover and refrigerate 1 hour.
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Drain the scallops and place them in skillet. Cook 4 to 5 minutes per side, until cooked through.
