A Scenic Journey to the Sognefjord
While Oslo and Bergen are the big draws for tourists, Norway is first and foremost a place of unforgettable natural beauty. There’s a certain mystique about the “land of the midnight sun,” but you’ll get the most scenic travel thrills per mile, minute, and dollar by going west from Oslo rather than north.
Norway’s greatest claims to scenic fame are her deep, lush fjords. Three million years ago, an ice age made this land as inhabitable as the center of Greenland. As the glaciers advanced and cut their way to the sea, they gouged out long grooves—today’s fjords.
The entire west coast is slashed by stunning fjords, and the Sognefjord—Norway’s longest (120 miles) and deepest (1 mile)—is tops. Anything but the Sognefjord is, at best, foreplay. The seductive Sognefjord has tiny but tough ferries, towering canyons, and isolated farms and villages marinated in the mist of countless waterfalls.
A series of well-organized and spectacular bus, train, and ferry connections—appropriately nicknamed “Norway in a Nutshell”—lays Norway’s beautiful fjord country before you on a scenic platter. With the Nutshell, you’ll delve into two offshoots of the Sognefjord, which make an upside-down “U” route: the Aurlandsfjord and the Nærøyfjord. You’ll link the ferry ride to the rest of Norway with two trains and a bus: The main train is an express route that takes you through stark polar scenery above the tree line. To get from the express train down to the ferry, you’ll catch an old-fashioned slow train one way (passing waterfalls and forests) and a bus the other way (offering fjord views and more waterfalls). All connections are designed for tourists, explained in English, convenient, and easy. At the start of the fjord, you’ll go through the town of Flåm (a transit hub), then pass briefly by the workaday town of Aurland and the hamlet of Undredal (by taking the Nutshell trip segments at your own pace, you can visit the latter two fjord towns on your own; all are described in this chapter).
This region enjoys mild weather for its latitude, thanks to the warm Gulf Stream. (When it rains in Bergen, it just drizzles here.) But if the weather is bad—don’t fret. I’ve often arrived to gloomy weather, only to enjoy sporadic splashes of brilliant sunshine all day long.
Recently the popularity of the Nutshell route has skyrocketed. And the 2005 completion of the longest car tunnel in the world (15 miles between Flåm and Lærdal) rerouted the main E-16 road between Bergen and Oslo through this idyllic fjord corner. All of this means that July and August come with a crush of crowds, dampening some of the area’s magic. Unfortunately, many tourists are overcome by Nutshell tunnel-vision, and spend so much energy scurrying between boats, trains, and buses that they forget to simply enjoy the fjords. Relax—you’re on vacation.
Even the blitz tourist needs a day for the Norway in a Nutshell trip. With more time, sleep in a town along the fjord, and customize your fjord experience to include sights outside the Nutshell.
Day 1: The Nutshell works well as a single day (one-way between Oslo and Bergen in either direction, or as a long day trip from either city). Those with a car and only one day should leave the car in Oslo and do the Nutshell by train, bus, and boat. If you’re using public transportation and want to make efficient use of your time, organize your trip so that it ends in Bergen, or return to Oslo on a night train (sleeping through all the scenery you saw westbound).
Day 2: If you have enough time, spend the night somewhere on the Sognefjord—either along the Nutshell route itself (in Flåm or Aurland; accommodations listed later), or in another, even more appealing fjordside town (such as Balestrand or Solvorn).
With More Time: The Sognefjord deserves more than a day. If you can spare the time, venture off the Nutshell route. You can easily connect to some non-Nutshell towns (such as Balestrand) via the handy express boat. Drivers can improve on the Nutshell by taking a northern route: From Oslo, drive through the Gudbrandsdal Valley, go over the Jotunheimen Mountains, then along Lustrafjord to Balestrand; from there, you can cross the Sognefjord on a car ferry (such as Kaupanger-Gudvangen) and drive the Nutshell route on to Bergen. For more tips, see the “Beyond the Nutshell” sidebar.
The most exciting single-day trip you could make from Oslo or Bergen is this circular train/boat/bus/train jaunt through fjord country. Everybody does this famous trip...and if you’re looking for a delicious slice of Norway’s scenic grandeur, so should you.
Local TIs (listed throughout this chapter) are well-informed about your options, and they sell tickets for various segments of the trip. At TIs, train stations, and hotels, look for souvenir-worthy brochures with photos, descriptions, and exact times (a sidebar later in this chapter has sample schedules).
Route Overview: The basic idea is this: Take a train halfway across the mountainous spine of Norway, make your way down to the Sognefjord for a boat cruise, then climb back up out of the fjord to rejoin the main train line. Each of these steps is explained in the self-guided tour, below. Transportation along the Nutshell route is carefully coordinated. If any segment of the journey is delayed, your transportation for the next segment will wait (because everyone on board is catching the same connection).
The route works round-trip from Oslo or Bergen, or one-way between those two cities (going in either direction). Doing the Nutshell one-way between Bergen and Oslo is most satisfying—you’ll see the whole shebang, and it’s extremely efficient if you’re connecting the two cities anyway. Doing the Nutshell as a round-trip from Bergen is cheaper, but it doesn’t include the majestic train ride between Myrdal and Oslo. Conversely, even though the round-trip from Oslo doesn’t go all the way to Bergen, it still includes all the must-sees (the Voss-Bergen leg is the least thrilling anyway).
When to Go: The Nutshell trip is possible all year. In the summer (late June-late Aug), the connections are most convenient, the weather is most likely to be good...and the route is at its most crowded. Outside of this time, sights close and schedules become more challenging. Some say the Nutshell is most beautiful in winter, though schedules are severely reduced (and you can’t do it as a day trip from Oslo). It’s easy to confirm schedules, connections, and prices locally or online (latest info posted each May on www.ruteinfo.net).
Express Boat to Balestrand and Bergen: If you don’t want to do the entire Nutshell route, take note of the very handy and speedy express boat connecting this area (Aurland and Flåm) with two other worthwhile destinations: Balestrand (on the Sognefjord’s northern bank) and Bergen. While this boat misses the best fjord (Nærøyfjord), many travelers use it to craft their own itinerary that escapes the Nutshell rut.
Here are several one-day options for doing the Nutshell in the summer (late June-late Aug). Confirm specific times before your trip (www.ruteinfo.net).
Oslo-Bergen: Train departs Oslo-8:05, arrives Myrdal-12:44; Flåmsbana train departs Myrdal-13:27, arrives Flåm-14:25; boat departs Flåm-15:10, arrives Gudvangen-17:30; bus departs Gudvangen-17:45, arrives Voss-19:00; train departs Voss-19:37, arrives Bergen-20:54.
Bergen-Oslo: Train departs Bergen-8:40, arrives Voss-9:54; bus departs Voss-10:00, arrives Gudvangen-11:10; boat departs Gudvangen-11:45, arrives Flåm-14:10; Flåmsbana train departs Flåm-16:05, arrives Myrdal-17:03; train departs Myrdal-17:53, arrives Oslo-22:45.
Day Trip from Oslo: Train departs Oslo-6:43, arrives Myrdal-12:01; Flåmsbana train departs Myrdal-12:11, arrives Flåm-13:05; boat departs Flåm-13:20, arrives Gudvangen-15:30; bus departs Gudvangen-15:40, arrives Voss-16:55; train departs Voss-17:08, arrives Oslo-22:45.
Day Trip from Bergen: Train departs Bergen-8:40, arrives Voss-9:55; bus departs Voss-10:00, arrives Gudvangen-11:00; boat departs Gudvangen-11:45, arrives Flåm-14:10; Flåmsbana train departs Flåm-14:40, arrives Myrdal-15:30; train departs Myrdal-17:01, arrives Bergen-19:05.
Variations: If you spend a night (or more) on the fjords, you have many options other than the speedy itineraries outlined above. One popular variation is to take the express boat from Bergen to Balestrand for an overnight, then plunge into the Nutshell the next day (or vice versa—do the Nutshell partway, then boat to Bergen; for express boat information, see here).
Eating: Options along the route aren’t great—on the Nutshell I’d consider food just as a source of nutrition and forget about fine dining. You can buy some food on the fjord cruises (50-75-kr hot dogs, burgers, and pizza) and the Oslo-Bergen train (50-100-kr hot meals, 150-kr daily specials). Depending on the timing of your layovers, Myrdal, Voss, or Flåm are your best lunch-stop options (the Myrdal and Flåm train stations have decent cafeterias, and other eateries surround the Flåm and Voss stations)—although you won’t have a lot of time there if you’re making the journey all in one day. Your best bet is to pack a picnic lunch. While some hotels sell a sack lunch assembled from their breakfast buffet, many will let you snag a sandwich for free if you ask politely. Or you can plan ahead and buy picnic fixings at a grocery store to bring along.
The Fjord Tours package deals are easy to book—they’ll save you time as well as a little money. If you have a railpass, or if you’re a student or a senior (and therefore eligible for discounts), you’ll save money doing the Nutshell on your own—if you don’t mind the hassle (described on the next page).
Fjord Tours sells the Nutshell package and other package trips at all Norwegian State Railways stations, including Oslo and Bergen, or through their customer-service line in Norway (tel. 81 56 82 22, www.fjordtours.no).
The costs of the Nutshell packages are as follows:
• One-way from Bergen or Oslo-1,480 kr
• Round-trip from Oslo via Voss (but not Bergen)-2,030 kr
• Round-trip from Oslo via Bergen-2,310 kr
• Round-trip from Bergen via Myrdal (but not Oslo)-1,090 kr
• Round-trip from Flåm-740 kr
They also sell a “Sognefjord in a Nutshell” tour, which takes an express boat from Bergen to Flåm, then picks up the Nutshell route from there (round-trip back to Bergen-1,305 kr; one-way to Oslo-1,690 kr; runs only May-Sept).
Unless you have a railpass or are eligible for student or senior discounts, you’ll pay roughly the same to do the Nutshell on your own as you would with a package tour (see prices above).
Railpass Discounts: If you have any railpass that includes Norway, the Oslo-Bergen train is covered (except a 50-kr reservation fee for second class; free for first-class passholders); you also get a 30 percent discount on the Myrdal-Flåm Flåmsbana train (195 kr). You still have to pay full fare for the boat cruise (285 kr) and the Gudvangen-Voss bus (98 kr). Your total one-way cost between Oslo and Bergen: about 578 kr with a first-class pass, 628 kr with a second-class pass.
Buying Tickets: You can get Nutshell train tickets at the train station in Oslo or Bergen. In summer, it’s smart to reserve the Oslo-Myrdal segment in advance (see below). Get your Flåmsbana ticket at the first Flåmsbana station you come to (either in Flåm or in Myrdal); purchase your fjord-cruise ticket on the boat or from the TI in Flåm (or reserve ahead in peak season; see below); and buy the tickets for the Gudvangen bus on board from the driver. If you’re a student or senior, always ask about discounts.
Reservations: At peak season (July-Aug), the Oslo-Bergen train—especially the segment between Oslo and Myrdal—can fill up well in advance: It’s very important to reserve a seat at least a week ahead: Dial 81 50 08 88 or 23 15 15 15 (from the US, call 011-47-81-50-08-88 or 011-47-23-15-15-15), and press 9 for English. It can be difficult to get through to this number in peak season—keep trying. Once connected, you can make a seat reservation (works for railpass holders, too). After booking your seat, you’ll be given a reservation number to use to pick up and pay for your ticket at the train station in Norway. It’s also possible to obtain a seat reservation by sending an email to help@nsb.no with specifics about the ticket you need. Unfortunately, at this time, tickets cannot be purchased online from the US. Be sure to ask about cancellation policies before you book.
The Flåmsbana train is tricky: If several big cruise liners come into Flåm, a few departures of this train can sell out—but likely not the ones you’ll need for a Nutshell connection. You can only buy Flåmsbana tickets for a specific departure at one of the Flåmsbana train stations (i.e., in Flam or Myrdal). The only exception is for those buying the Nutshell package, which includes a Flåmsbana ticket for the departure you’ll need.
It’s smart to reserve ahead for the Flåm-Gudvangen fjord boat trip. You don’t need a reservation for the Gudvangen-Voss bus.
Tiny Flåm—in the heart of Nutshell country—is an increasingly popular destination for huge cruise ships. If your cruise is stopping in Flåm, you can do the middle part of the Nutshell loop in a day, but it helps to know a few pointers:
• Plan your day in advance (using this chapter), disembark as early as possible, and head straight for the train station (a short walk from the dock). Many ships arrive around 8:00; Flåm’s TI and train-station ticket office both open at 8:15; and the first Nutshell fjord boat sets sail at 9:00—leaving you a narrow window of time to confirm schedules and book tickets. Stragglers may get stuck in long lines and (literally) miss the boat.
• The Nutshell loop is practical for cruisers only if done counterclockwise: Flåm-Gudvangen boat, 9:00-11:25; Gudvangen-Voss bus, 11:40-12:55; Voss-Myrdal train, 13:10-14:00; Flåmsbana train from Myrdal to Flåm, 14:43-15:27 (these are 2013 times; confirm locally). The opposite direction (Flåm-Myrdal-Voss-Gudvangen-Flåm) returns to Flåm too late for most cruise ships.
• The same “package vs. on your own” considerations, explained earlier, apply to cruisers. Unless you’re eligible for student, senior, or railpass discounts, book the Flåm round-trip package (at the Flåm TI).
• If you’d rather not do the full Nutshell on your day in port, you could do one or two legs: For example, cruise to Gudvangen, then bus back to Flåm; or simply go for a round-trip ride on the Flåmsbana to Myrdal and back (this popular-with-cruisers option often sells out—get your tickets as quickly as possible on arrival in Flåm).
If you only have one day for this region, it’ll be a thrilling day. The following segments of the Nutshell route are narrated from Oslo to Bergen. If you’re going the other way, hold the book upside down.
This is simply the most spectacular train ride in northern Europe. The scenery crescendos as you climb over Norway’s mountainous spine. After a mild three hours of deep woods and lakes, you’re into the barren, windswept heaths and glaciers. These tracks were begun in 1894 to link Stockholm and Bergen, but Norway won its independence from Sweden in 1905, so the line served to link the two main cities in the new country—Oslo and Bergen. The entire railway, an amazing engineering feat completed in 1909, is 300 miles long; peaks at 4,266 feet, which, at this Alaskan latitude, is far above the tree line; goes under 18 miles of snow sheds; trundles over 300 bridges; and passes through 200 tunnels in just under seven hours.
Here’s what you’ll see traveling westward from Oslo: Leaving Oslo, you pass through a six-mile-long tunnel and stop in Drammen, Norway’s fifth-largest town. The scenery stays low-key and woodsy up Hallingdal Valley until you reach Geilo, a popular ski resort. Then you enter a land of big views and tough little cabins. Finse, at about 4,000 feet, is the highest stop on the line. From here, you enter the longest high-mountain stretch of railway in Europe. Much of the line is protected by snow tunnels. The scenery gets more dramatic as you approach Myrdal (MEER-doll). Just before Myrdal, look to the right and down into the Flåm Valley, where the Flåmsbana branch line winds its way down to the fjord. Nutshell travelers get off at Myrdal.
Cost: Note that the Nutshell route includes only part of this train ride (as a day trip from Oslo, for instance, you take the Oslo-Myrdal and Voss-Oslo segments). Here are the one-way fares for various segments: Oslo-Bergen-815 kr, Oslo-Myrdal-650 kr, Myrdal-Voss-113 kr, Myrdal-Bergen-278 kr, Voss-Bergen-184 kr. You can save money on these fares if you book in advance at www.nsb.no.
Remember, second-class railpass-holders pay just 50 kr to reserve, and first-class passholders pay nothing. If you have a second-class railpass or ticket, you can pay 90 kr to upgrade to “Komfort” class, with more legroom, reclining seats, free coffee and tea, and an electrical socket for your laptop (reserve ahead or ask the conductor when you board; free for first class).
The process that created the majestic Sognefjord began during an ice age about three million years ago. A glacier up to 6,500 feet thick slid downhill at an inch an hour, following a former river valley on its way to the sea. Rocks embedded in the glacier gouged out a steep, U-shaped valley, displacing enough rock material to form a mountain 13 miles high. When the climate warmed up, the ice age came to an end. The melting glaciers retreated and the sea level rose nearly 300 feet, flooding the valley now known as the Sognefjord. The fjord is more than a mile deep, flanked by 3,000-foot mountains—for a total relief of 9,300 feet. Waterfalls spill down the cliffs, fed by runoff from today’s glaciers. Powdery sediment tinges the fjords a cloudy green, the distinct color of glacier melt.
Why are there fjords on the west coast of Norway, but not, for instance, on the east coast of Sweden? The creation of a fjord requires a setting of coastal mountains, a good source of moisture, and a climate cold enough for glaciers to form and advance. Due to the earth’s rotation, the prevailing winds in higher latitudes blow from west to east, so chances of glaciation are ideal where there is an ocean to the west of land with coastal mountains. When the winds blow east over the water, they pick up a lot of moisture, then bump up against the coastal mountain range, and dump their moisture in the form of snow—which feeds the glaciers that carve valleys down to the sea.
You can find fjords along the northwest coast of Europe—including western Norway and Sweden, Denmark’s Faroe Islands, Scotland’s Shetland Islands, Iceland, and Greenland; the northwest coast of North America (from Puget Sound in Washington state north to Alaska); the southwest coast of South America (Chile); the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island; and on the continent of Antarctica.
As you travel through Scandinavia, bear in mind that, while we English-speakers use the word “fjord” to mean only glacier-cut inlets, Scandinavians often use it in a more general sense to include bays, lakes, and lagoons that weren’t formed by glacial action.
Schedule: This train runs three to five times per day (overnight possible daily except Sat). The segment from Oslo to Myrdal takes 4.75-5.5 hours; going all the way to Bergen takes 7-7.5 hours.
Reservations: In peak season, get reservations for this train at least a week in advance.
The little 12-mile spur line leaves the Oslo-Bergen line at Myrdal (2,800 feet), which is nothing but a scenic high-altitude train junction with a decent cafeteria. From Myrdal, the train winds down to Flåm (sea level) through 20 tunnels (more than three miles’ worth) in 55 thrilling minutes. It’s party time on board, and the engineer even stops the train for photos at the best waterfall, Kjosfossen. According to a Norwegian legend, a temptress lives behind these falls and tries to lure men to the rocks with her singing...look out for her.
The train line is an even more impressive feat of engineering when you realize it’s not a cogwheel train—it’s held to the tracks only by steel wheels, though it does have five separate braking systems. Before boarding, pick up the free, multilingual souvenir pamphlet with lots of info on the trip (or see www.flaamsbana.no). Video screens onboard and sporadic English commentary on the loudspeakers explain points of interest, but there’s not much to say—it’s all about the scenery.
While the grass is always greener on the other side of the train, if you’re choosing seats, you’ll enjoy slightly more scenery if you sit on the west-facing side of the train (on the left going down, on the right going up).
Cost: 280 kr one-way (railpass holders pay 195 kr), 380 kr round-trip. You can buy tickets only at the Flåmsbana stations in Myrdal or Flåm (not at other train ticket offices in Norway—though if you book the whole package in Oslo or Bergen, you can reserve a specific train). If you’re in a rush to make a tight connection, you can try to buy them on board (but if the train is sold out, the ticket-takers may send you back to the ticket office).
Schedule: The train departs in each direction nearly hourly.
Reservations: This train can get jammed with travelers, particularly when multiple cruise ships are in Flåm. On trains going from Myrdal down to Flåm, you can always squeeze in, even if it’s standing-room only. However, trains ascending from Flåm to Myrdal can sell out. You can buy advance tickets for a particular train (though not reserve a specific seat) at the Flåmsbana ticket office in either Flåm or Myrdal, or—if you’re booking the full Nutshell—at the train stations in Oslo or Bergen. In practice, this is a concern only for those wanting to leave Flåm to Myrdal in the morning; if possible, buy your ticket the night before to avoid the possibility of sold-out trains—or get to the ticket office early in the morning (it opens at 8:15).
The Flåmsbana train deposits you at Flåm, a scenic, functional transit hub at the far end of the Aurlandsfjord. If you’re doing the Nutshell route nonstop, follow the crowds and hop on the sightseeing boat that’ll take you to Gudvangen. With minimal English narration, the boat takes you close to the goats, sheep, waterfalls, and awesome cliffs.
You’ll cruise up the lovely Aurlandsfjord, motoring by the town of Aurland (a good home base, but your boat may not stop here unless you ask), pass Undredal, and hang a left at the stunning Nærøyfjord (“Narrow Fjord”). The cruise ends at the apex of the Nærøyfjord, in Gudvangen.
The trip is breathtaking in any weather. For the last hour, as you sail down the Nærøyfjord, camera-clicking tourists scurry around the drool-stained deck like nervous roosters, scratching fitfully for a photo that will catch the magic. Waterfalls turn the black cliffs into bridal veils, and you can nearly reach out and touch the cliffs of the Nærøyfjord. It’s the world’s narrowest fjord: six miles long and as little as 820 feet wide and 40 feet deep. On a sunny day, the ride is one of those fine times—like when you’re high on the tip of an Alp—when a warm camaraderie spontaneously combusts between the strangers who’ve come together for the experience.
Cost: For the whole route (Flåm-Gudvangen), you’ll pay 285 kr one-way (143 kr for students with ISIC cards; 390 kr round-trip).
Schedule: In summer (May-Sept), boats run four to five times each day in both directions. Specific departure times can vary, but generally boats leave Flåm at 9:00, 13:20, 15:10, and 18:00 (with an additional 11:00 departure from late June to late August); and leave Gudvangen at 10:30, 11:45, 15:45, and 17:40 (with an additional 13:30 departure from late June to late August). Frequency drops off-season. The trip takes about two hours and 15 minutes.
Reservations: If your itinerary hinges on a specific departure, it’s smart to reserve the boat trip in advance: You can email booking@fjord1.no, book online at www.fjord1.no, or call 55 90 70 70 by 14:00 one business day before.
Other Ways to Cruise Nærøyfjord: While most visitors thunder onto the state-run ferry described above, consider taking a trip on a Sognefjorden Cruise ship, or a thrilling ride on little inflatable FjordSafari speedboats.
Nutshellers get off the boat at Gudvangen and take the bus to Voss. Gudvangen is little more than a boat dock and giant tourist kiosk. If you want, you can browse through the grass-roofed souvenir stores and walk onto a wooden footbridge—then catch your bus. Buses meet each ferry, or will show up soon. (It’s smart to confirm this in advance if you plan to take the last boat of the day, which arrives in Gudvangen at about 17:20—the ferry crew can call ahead to be sure the bus waits for you). While some buses—designed for commuters rather than sightseers—take the direct route to Voss, buses tied to the Nutshell schedule take a super-scenic detour via Stalheim (described below). If you’re a waterfall junkie, sit on the left.
First the bus takes you up the Nærøydal and plunges you into a couple of long tunnels. Then you’ll take a turnoff to drive past the landmark Stalheim Hotel for the first of many spectacular views back into fjord country. While some buses stop at the hotel for a photo op, others drive right past. Though the hotel dates from 1885, there’s been an inn here since about 1700, where the royal mailmen would change horses. The hotel is geared for tour groups (genuine trolls sew the pewter buttons on the sweaters), but the priceless view from the backyard is free. If your bus pauses here, snap your classic photo, then stop in the living room to survey the art showing this perch in the 19th century.
Leaving the hotel, the bus wends its way down a road called Stalheimkleiva, with a corkscrew series of switchbacks flanked by a pair of dramatic waterfalls. With its 18 percent grade, it’s the steepest road in Norway.
After winding your way down into the valley, you’re back on the same highway. The bus goes through those same tunnels again, then continues straight on the main road through pastoral countryside to Voss. You’ll pass a huge lake, then follow a crystal-clear, surging river. Just before Voss, look to the right for the wide Tvindefossen waterfall, tumbling down its terraced cliff. Drivers will find the grassy meadow and flat rocks at its base ideal for letting the mist fog their glasses and enjoying a drink or snack (be discreet, as “picnics are forbidden”).
Cost: 98 kr, pay on board, no railpass discounts.
Reservations: Not necessary.
The Nutshell bus from Gudvangen drops you at the Voss train station, which is on the Oslo-Bergen train line. Nutshellers should catch the next train out. A plain town in a lovely lake-and-mountain setting, Voss lacks the striking fjordside scenery of Flåm, Aurland, or Undredal, and is basically a home base for summer or winter sports (Norway’s Winter Olympics teams often practice here). Voss surrounds its fine, 13th-century church with workaday streets—busy with both local shops and souvenir stores—stretching in several directions. Fans of American football may want to see the humble monument to player and coach Knute Rockne, who was born in Voss in 1888; look for the metal memorial plaque on a rock near the train station.
Voss’ helpful TI is a five-minute walk from the train station—just head toward the church (June-Aug Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00, Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 12:00-19:00; Sept-May Mon-Fri 8:30-17:00, Sat 9:00-15:00, closed Sun; facing the church in the center of town at Vangsgatan 20, mobile 40 61 77 00, www.visitvoss.no).
Drivers should zip right through Voss, but two miles outside town, you can stop at the Mølstertunet Folk Museum, which has 16 buildings showing off farm life in the 17th and 18th centuries (60 kr; mid-May-Aug daily 10:00-17:00; Sept-mid-May Mon-Fri 10:00-15:00, Sun 12:00-15:00, closed Sat; Mølstervegen 143, tel. 56 51 15 11, www.vossfolkemuseum.no).
The least exciting segment of the trip—but still pleasantly scenic—this train chugs along the valley between the midsize town of Voss (described above) and Bergen. For the best scenery, sit on the right side of the train if coming from Oslo/Voss, or the left side if coming from Bergen. Between Voss and Dale, you’ll pass several scenic lakes; near Bergen, you’ll go along the Veafjord.
Cost: The train costs 184 kr between Voss and Bergen and is fully covered by railpasses that include Norway.
Schedule and Reservations: Unlike the long-distance Oslo-Bergen journey, this line is also served by more frequent commuter trains (about hourly, 1-1.25 hours), and reservations aren’t necessary.
Voss-Oslo Train: Note that if you’re doing the Nutshell round-trip from Oslo, you should catch the train from Voss (rather than Bergen) back to Oslo. The return trip takes 5.5-6 hours and costs 735 kr; reservations are strongly recommended in peak season.
Flåm (sometimes spelled Flaam, pronounced “flome”)—where the boat and Flåmsbana train meet, at the head of the Aurlandsfjord—feels more like a transit junction than a village. But its striking setting, easy transportation connections, and touristy bustle make it appealing as a home base for exploring the nearby area.
Most of Flåm’s services are inside the train station, including the TI (see below), train ticket desk, pay Wi-Fi, public WC, cafeteria, and souvenir shops hawking overpriced reindeer pelts (cheaper in Bergen). Just outside the station, the little red shed at the head of the tracks serves as a left-luggage desk (25 kr, daily 8:00-19:45, on your right as you depart the train, ring bell if nobody’s there), and displays a chart of the services you’ll find in the station. The boat dock for fjord cruises is just beyond the end of the tracks. Surrounding the station are a Co-op Marked grocery store (with a basic pharmacy and post office inside, Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-18:00, shorter hours off-season, closed Sun year-round) and a smattering of hotels, travel agencies, and touristy restaurants. Aside from a few scattered farmhouses and some homes lining the road, there’s not much of a town here. (The extremely sleepy old town center—where tourists rarely venture, and which you’ll pass on the Flåmsbana train—is a few miles up the river, in the valley.)
At the TI inside the train station, you can purchase your boat tickets and load up on handy brochures (daily May and late Sept 8:15-16:00, June-mid-Sept 8:15-20:00, closed Oct-April, tel. 57 63 21 06, www.visitflam.com or www.alr.no, very helpful Vladimir). The TI hands out a variety of useful items: an excellent flyer with a good map and up-to-date schedules for public transit options; a diagram of the train-station area, identifying services available in each building; and a map of Flåm and the surrounding area, marked with suggested walks and hikes. Answers to most of your questions can be found posted on the walls and from staff at the counter. Bus schedules, boat and train timetables, maps, and more are photocopied and available for your convenience. To get online, buy a Wi-Fi voucher at the TI counter (20 kr/1 hour, 40 kr/3 hours, 50 kr/day).
Flåm’s village activities are all along or near the pier.
The Flåm Railway Museum (Flåmsbana Museet), sprawling through the long old train station building alongside the tracks, has surprisingly good exhibits about the history of the train that connects Flåm to the main line up above. You’ll find good English explanations, artifacts, recreations of historic interiors (such as the humble schoolhouse up at Myrdal), and an actual train car. It’s the only real museum in town and a good place to kill time while waiting for your boat or train (free, daily 9:00-17:00).
The Torget Café is attached to a fjord “panorama” movie (55 kr, 23 minutes).
I’d skip the pointless and overpriced tourist train that does a 45-minute loop around Flåm (95 kr).
The pleasantly woody Ægir Bryggeri, a microbrewery designed to resemble an old Viking longhouse, offers tastes of its five beers (125 kr; also pub grub in the evening).
The TI hands out a map suggesting several walks and hikes in the area, starting from right in town.
If you want to linger, consider renting a boat to go out on the usually calm, peaceful waters of the fjord. You can paddle near the walls of the fjord and really get a sense of the immensity of these mountains. You can rent rowboats, motorboats, and paddleboats at the little marina across the harbor. If you’d rather have a kayak, Njord does kayak tours, but won’t rent you one unless you’re certified (tel. 91 32 66 28, www.njord.as).
But the main reason people come to Flåm is to leave it—see some options below. Because Aurland and Flåm are close together (10 minutes away by car or bus, or 20 minutes by boat), I’ve also listed attractions near Aurland, below.
The most scenic fjord I’ve seen anywhere in Norway is about an hour from Flåm (basically the last half of the 2-hour Flåm-Gudvangen trip). There are several ways to cruise it: You can take the state-run ferry, described earlier as part of the Norway in a Nutshell trip (4.5-hour round-trips departing Flåm in peak season at 9:00, 11:00, and 13:20, 390 kr; these should also stop in Aurland—make sure the crew knows if you want to get off, and that the cruise ends in Gudvangen). Or you can consider two other Flåm-based options:
Sognefjorden Sightseeing & Tours—This private company runs trips from Flåm to Gudvangen and back to Flåm, using their own boats and buses (rather than the public ones on the “official” Nutshell route). If the Nutshell departures don’t work for you, consider these trips as an alternative. Their main offering, the World Heritage Cruise, is a boat trip up the Nærøyfjord with a return by bus (335 kr, 2.5-3 hours, multiple departures daily mid-May-mid-Sept). They also do a variation on this trip with a 45-minute stop in the village of Undredal for lunch and a goat-cheese tasting (630 kr, June-Aug only); a bus trip up to the Stalheim Hotel for the view (290 kr, or combined with return from Gudvangen by boat for 510 kr); a bus ride up to the thrilling Stegastein viewpoint (otherwise impossible to reach without a car, 190 kr, mid-May-mid-Sept); and more. For details, drop by their office inside the Flåm train station, call 57 66 00 55, or visit www.visitflam.com/sognefjorden.
▲▲FjordSafari to Nærøyfjord—FjordSafari takes little groups out onto the fjord in small, open Zodiac-type boats with an English-speaking guide. Participants wear full-body weather suits, furry hats, and spacey goggles (making everyone on the boat look like crash-test dummies). As the boat rockets across the water, you’ll be thankful for the gear, no matter what the weather. You’ll get the same scant information and stops as on the slow ferry, except that Safari boats stop right under a towering rock cliff—a magnificent experience. Their two-hour Flåm-Gudvangen-Flåm tour focuses on the Nærøyfjord, and gets you all the fjord magnificence you can imagine (590 kr). Their three-hour tour (700 kr) is the same as the two-hour tour, except that it includes a stop in Undredal, where you can see goat cheese being made, taste the finished product, and wander that sleepy village. They run several departures daily from June through August (fewer off-season, kids get discounts, tel. 99 09 08 60, www.fjordsafari.no, Maylene). They also offer a 1.5-hour “mini” tour that costs 490 kr and just barely touches on the Nærøyfjord...so what’s the point?
For the best single-day, non-fjord activity from Flåm, take the Flåmsbana train to Myrdal, then hike or mountain-bike along the road (part gravel but mostly paved) back down to Flåm (2-3 hours by bike, gorgeous waterfalls, great mountain scenery, and a cute church with an evocative graveyard, but no fjord views). The Flåm TI rents mountain bikes (50 kr/hour, 250 kr/day) as does the local youth hostel. It costs 90 kr to take a bike to Myrdal on the train. You can hike just the best two hours from Myrdal to Berekvam, where you can catch the train into the valley. Pick up the helpful map with this and other hiking options (easy to strenuous) at the Flåm TI.
This humble but magical cluster of four centuries-old farms, realistically accessible only to drivers, is perched high on a ridge, up a twisty gravel road midway between Flåm and Aurland. Laila Kvellestad runs this low-key sight, valiantly working to save and share traditional life as it was back when butter was the farmers’ gold. (That was before emigration decimated the workforce, coinage replaced barter, and industrialized margarine became more popular than butter—all of which left farmers to eke out a living relying only on their goats and the cheese they produce.) Until 1919 the only road between Aurland and Flåm passed between this huddle of 27 buildings, high above the fjord. First settled in 1522, farmers lived here until the 1990s. Laila gives 45-minute English tours through several time-warp houses and barns at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00 (50-kr entry plus 30 kr for guided tour, June-mid-Sept daily 10:00-17:00, tel. 48 12 51 38, www.otternes.no). It’s wise to call first to confirm tour times and that it’s open. For an additional 65 kr, Laila serves a traditional snack with your tour (pancakes with coffee or tea), but you must book in advance.
To reach these sights, you’ll first head along the fjord to Aurland. Of the sights below, the Lærdal Tunnel, Stegastein viewpoint, and Aurlandsvegen “Snow Road” are best for drivers. The Borgund Stave Church can be reached by car, or by bus from Flåm or Aurland.
For more specifics on driving through the Lærdal Tunnel or on the Aurlandsvegen “Snow Road,” see next page.
Drivers find that this tunnel makes connecting Flåm and Lærdal a snap. It’s the world’s longest road-vehicle tunnel, stretching 15 miles between Aurland and Lærdal as part of the E-16 highway. It also makes the wonderful Borgund Stave Church (described on the next page) less than an hour’s drive from Aurland. The downside to the tunnel is that it goes beneath my favorite scenic drive in Norway (the Aurlandsvegen “Snow Road,” described next). But with about two hours, you can drive through the tunnel to Lærdal and then return via the “Snow Road,” with the Stegastein viewpoint as a finale, before dropping back into Aurland.
With a car and clear weather, consider twisting up the mountain behind Aurland on route 243 for about 20 minutes for a fine view over the Aurlandsfjord. A new viewpoint called Stegastein—which looks like a giant, wooden, inverted number “7”—provides a platform from which you can enjoy stunning views across the fjords. Immediately beyond the viewpoint, you leave the fjord views and enter the mountaintop world of the Aurlandsvegen “Snow Road.” When you finally hit civilization on the other side, you’re a mile from the Lærdal tunnel entrance and about 30 minutes from the fine Borgund Stave Church.
About 16 miles east of Lærdal, in the village of Borgund, is Norway’s most-visited and one of its best-preserved stave churches.
Borgund’s church comes with one of this country’s best stave-church history museums, which beautifully explains these icons of medieval Norway. Dating from around 1180, the interior features only a few later additions, including a 16th-century pulpit, 17th-century stone altar, painted decorations, and crossbeam reinforcements.
The oldest and most authentic item in the church is the stone baptismal font. In medieval times, priests conducting baptisms would go outside to shoo away the evil spirits from an infant before bringing it inside the church for the ritual. (If infants died before being baptized, they couldn’t be buried in the churchyard, so parents would put their bodies in little coffins and hide them under the church’s floorboards to get them as close as possible to God.)
Explore the dimly lit interior, illuminated only by the original, small, circular windows up high. Notice the X-shaped crosses of St. Andrew (the church’s patron), carvings of dragons, and medieval runes.
Cost and Hours: 75 kr, buy tickets in museum across street, daily mid-June-mid-Aug 8:00-20:00, May-mid-June and mid-Aug-Sept 10:00-17:00, closed Oct-April. The museum has a shop and a fine little cafeteria serving filling and tasty lunches (70-kr soup with bread, tel. 57 66 81 09, www.stavechurch.com).
Getting There: It’s about a 30-minute drive east of Lærdal, on E-16 (the road to Oslo—if coming from Aurland or Flåm, consider taking the scenic route via the Stegastein viewpoint, described above). There’s also a convenient bus connection: The bus departs Flåm and Aurland around midday (direction: Lillehammer) and heads for the church, with a return bus departing Borgund in mid-afternoon (240-kr round-trip, get ticket from driver, about 1 hour each way with about 1 hour at the church, bus runs daily May-Sept, tell driver you want to get off at the church).
My recommended accommodations are away from the tacky train-station bustle, but a close enough walk to be convenient. The first two places are located along the waterfront a quarter-mile from the station: Walk around the little harbor (with the water on your left) for about 10 minutes. It’s more enjoyable to follow the level, waterfront dock than to hike up the main road.
$$$ Flåm Marina and Apartments, perched right on the fjord, is ideal for families and longer stays. They offer 10 new-feeling, self-catering apartments that sleep 2-5 people each. All units offer views of the fjord with a balcony, kitchenette, and small dining area (Db-1,195 kr June-mid-Sept, less off-season, 320 kr more for each additional adult, check online or ask about specials for longer stays, no breakfast, café open during high season, boat rental, laundry facilities, next to the guest harbor just below Heimly Pensjonat—see next, tel. 57 63 35 55, www.flammarina.no, booking@flammarina.no).
$$ Heimly Pensjonat, with 23 straightforward rooms, is clean, efficient, and the best small hotel in town. Sit on the porch with new friends and watch the clouds roll down the fjord (Sb-895 kr, Db-1,045 kr, view Db costs 100 kr more in summer, extra bed-325 kr for adult or 225 kr for child, includes breakfast, cheaper Oct-May, Db rooms are mostly twins, try to reserve a room with a view at the standard price, bike and car rental, tel. 57 63 23 00, fax 57 63 23 40, www.heimly.no, post@heimly.no). The budget annex out back has more rooms that share bathrooms (D-510 kr, sheets and towels-100 kr/person, breakfast-95 kr).
$-$$ Flåm Youth Hostel and Camping Bungalows, voted Scandinavia’s most beautiful campground, is run by the friendly Håland family, who rent the cheapest beds in the area (hostel: bunk in 4-bed room-210 kr, S-340 kr, D-550-580 kr; newer, fancier building: bunk in 4-bed room-275 kr, Db-755 kr; cabins-700-1,100 kr; sheets and towels-60 kr, showers-10 kr, 10 percent discount for members, no meals but kitchen access, laundry, apple grove, tel. 57 63 21 21, www.flaam-camping.no, camping@flaam-camping.no). It’s a five-minute walk toward the valley from the train station: Cross the bridge and turn left up the main road; then look for the hostel on the right.
Dining options beyond your hotel’s dining room or kitchenette are expensive and touristy. Don’t aim for high cuisine here—go practical. Almost all eateries are clustered near the train station complex. Hours can be unpredictable, flexing with the season, but you can expect these to be open daily in high season. Places here tend to close pretty early (especially in shoulder season)—don’t wait too long for dinner.
The Flåmsbrygga complex, sprawling through a long building toward the fjord from the station, includes a hotel, the affordable Furukroa Café (cafeteria with 50-65-kr cold sandwiches, 100-150-kr fast-food meals, and 200-225-kr pizzas), and the pricey Flåmstova Restaurant (235-kr lunch buffet, 325-kr dinner buffet, plus other menu options at dinner). Next door is their fun, Viking-longhouse-shaped brewpub, Ægir Bryggeri (145-165-kr pub grub after 16:00). Torget Café, with seating in old train cars, is under new management that prides itself on using as many locally sourced and organic ingredients as possible (65-75-kr sandwiches, 160-195-kr main dishes).
A few miles north of Flåm, Aurland is more of a real town and less of a tourist depot. While it’s nothing exciting (Balestrand is more lively and appealing, and Solvorn is cuter), it’s a good, easygoing fjordside home base. And thanks to its location—on the main road and boat lines, near Flåm—it’s relatively handy for those taking public transportation.
Getting There: Aurland is an easy 10-minute drive or bus trip from Flåm. If you want to stay overnight in Aurland, note that every train (except the late-night one) arriving in Flåm connects with a bus or boat to Aurland. Eleven buses and at least four ferries link the towns daily in summer (bus-33 kr, 10 minutes; boat-85 kr, 20 minutes). The Flåm-Gudvangen boat doesn’t have a scheduled stop at Aurland, but they’re usually willing to stop there if you ask—so it’s possible to continue the Nutshell route from Aurland without backtracking to Flåm. Boat tickets bought at the Aurland TI come with a reservation (helpful on the busiest days in July and August, when the boats can fill up in Flåm). The Bergen-Balestrand-Flåm express boat stops in Aurland.
From Aurland’s dingy boat dock area, walk one block up the paved street into the heart of town. On your right are the Rimi and Spar supermarkets (handy for picnic supplies) and Aurlandskafeen, the best restaurant in town (at the bridge). To your left is the Vangsgården Guest House and, behind it, Aurland Fjordhotel. To reach the TI, go straight ahead and bear right, then look behind the white church (800 years old and worth a peek). The bus stop, with buses to Flåm, is in front of the TI.
The TI stocks English-language brochures about hikes and day trips from the area, offers free Internet terminals, and hosts a small history exhibit (June-Aug Mon-Fri 8:30-17:00, Sept-May Mon-Fri 8:30-15:30, closed Sat-Sun year-round; behind the white church—look for green-and-white i sign; tel. 57 63 33 13, www.alr.no).
(6 kr = about $1, country code: 47)
$$$ Aurland Fjordhotel is big, modern, and centrally located. While it has a business-hotel vibe, most of its 30 rooms come with gorgeous fjord-view balconies (Sb-995 kr, Db-1,490 kr, Tb-1,785, prices lower off-season, check website for deals, includes breakfast, free Wi-Fi, tel. 57 63 35 05, fax 57 63 36 22, www.aurland-fjordhotel.com, post@aurland-fjordhotel.com, Steinar Kjerstein).
$$ Vangsgården Guest House, closest to the boat landing, is a complex of old buildings dominating the old center of Aurland and run from one reception desk (free Wi-Fi in main building, tel. 57 63 35 80, www.vangsgaarden.no, vangsgaarden@alb.no, open all year, Astrid). The main building is a simple, old guesthouse offering basic rooms and a fine old-timey living room (Sb-600 kr, Db-1,050 kr). Their old-fashioned Aabelheim Pension is Aurland’s best koselig (cozy)-like-a-farmhouse place (same prices). And lining the waterfront are their six adorable, recently renovated, wood cabins, each with a kitchen, bathroom, and two bedrooms (1,250 kr for 2-6 people, sheets-65 kr/person, book 2 months in advance). The optional 80-kr breakfast is served in a delightfully homey dining room. The owners also run the Duehuset Pub (see “Eating in Aurland,” later) and rent bikes for 200 kr/day.
$$ Skahjem Gard is an active farm run by Aurland’s former deputy mayor, Nils Tore. He’s converted his old sheep barn into seven spick-and-span family apartments with private bathrooms and kitchenettes, each sleeping up to four people (700 kr for studio, 800 kr with separate bedroom; sheets and towels-70 kr/person, free Wi-Fi, two miles up the valley—road #50, follow Hol signs, tel. 57 63 33 29, mobile 95 17 25 67, www.skahjemgard.com, nskahjem@online.no). It’s a 25-minute walk from town, but Nils will pick up and drop off travelers at the ferry. This is best for families and foursomes with cars.
$ Winjum Huts, about a half-mile from Aurland’s dock, rents 14 basic cabins on a peaceful perch overlooking the majestic fjord. The washhouse/kitchen is where you’ll find the toilets and showers. Follow the road uphill past the Aurland Fjordhotel; the huts are after the first hairpin curve (350-500 kr for up to 4 people, 2-bed apartment-900-1,200 kr, sheets-50 kr/person, showers-10 kr/5 minutes, no food available—just beer, tel. 57 63 34 61 or 41 47 47 51).
Aurlandskafeen is a basic little café/diner serving the best-value food in town from its inviting cafeteria line. It’s a block from the main square, at the bridge over the river. Sit upstairs or on its riverside terrace (95-kr daily plates, open daily 10:00-21:00—provided there are customers, shorter hours off-season, tel. 57 63 36 66).
Duehuset Pub (“The Dove’s House”), run by Vangsgården Guest House, serves up decent food in the center of town (190-240-kr pizzas big enough for four, 155-240-kr main dishes; June-Sept daily 15:00-23:00; Oct-May Fri-Sun 18:00-23:00, closed Mon-Thu).
The Aurland Fjordhotel is your only alternative for splurges (195-kr main dishes, 65-kr starters, 240-295-kr dinner buffet, daily 19:00-22:00, shorter hours off-season, bar open later, tel. 57 63 35 05).
For cheap eats on dockside benches, gather a picnic at the Spar or Rimi supermarkets (both open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-18:00, closed Sun).
This almost impossibly remote community is home to about 75 people (and 400 goats). A huge percentage of the town’s former population (300 people) emigrated to the US between 1850 and 1925. Undredal was accessible only by boat until 1988, when the road from Flåm opened. There’s not much in the town, which is famous for its church and its goat cheese, but I’ll never forget the picnic I had on the ferry wharf. While appealing, Undredal is quiet (some say better from the boat) and difficult to reach—you’ll have to be patient to connect to other towns. For more information on the town, see www.undredal.no.
Undredal has Norway’s smallest still-used church, seating 40 people for services every fourth Sunday. The original church was built in 1147 (look for the four original stave pillars inside). It was later expanded, pews added, and the interior painted in the 16th century in a way that resembles the traditional Norwegian rosemaling style (which came later). You can get in only with an overpriced 15-minute tour (60 kr, mid-June-mid-Aug daily 9:30-18:30, less in shoulder season, closed Oct-April, tel. 95 29 76 68).
Undredal’s farms exist to produce cheese. The beloved local cheese comes in two versions: brown and white. The brown version is unaged and slightly sweet, while the white cheese has been aged and is mild and a bit salty. For samples, visit the Undredalsbui grocery store at the harbor (Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat 9:00-15:00, Sun 12:00-16:00, shorter hours and closed Sun off-season).
The 15-minute drive from Flåm is mostly through a tunnel. By sea, you’ll sail past Undredal on the Flåm-Gudvangen boat (you can request a stop). To get the ferry to pick you up in Undredal, turn on the blinking light (though some express boats will not stop).
This sleepy town can accommodate about eight visitors a night. $$ Undredal Overnatting rents four modern, woody, comfortable rooms and two apartments. The reception is at the café on the harbor, while the accommodations are at the top of town (Db-740 kr, apartments start at 990 kr, sheets-60 kr/person, breakfast-90 kr, tel. 57 63 30 80 or 57 63 31 00, www.visitundredal.no, visit@undredal.no).