Paper for the Patterns
Computer or photocopy machine paper (20-weight) works quite nicely. It is easy to find and reasonably priced. It holds up very well when you have to pick out any sewing mistakes. However, it is difficult to see through when you are arranging the fabric in the correct position, so you will need access to good light.
Typing paper is thinner and a little more transparent than computer paper. It is less durable than the computer paper but is easier to remove. Again, you will need to use a shorter stitch length and larger needle. It should go through the photocopy machine fine, but if you have problems with the photocopy machine jamming, you will need to use regular 20-weight computer/photocopy machine paper.
Vellum is a high grade of tracing paper used by architects and artists. While Simple Foundations Translucent Vellum (C&T Publishing) is a little more costly, it is worth the price. Because it is translucent, it makes lining up the fabric pieces a breeze. Vellum is very easy to remove. Once more, you will need to use a larger needle and a shorter stitch. If you have problems with the photocopy machine jamming, you will need to use regular 20-weight computer/photocopy machine paper.
Another great option is Carol Doak’s Foundation Paper (C&T Publishing). It is easy to remove, the price is right, and it doesn’t curl when you iron it.
Examination paper found in a doctor’s office is very lightweight and readily available if you have a generous doctor. Examination paper works great with the needle-punching technique (page 8). You can use a slightly larger stitch, and it is easy to remove.
Freezer Paper (New York Beauty Templates)
Freezer paper is great for making templates for piecing. Draw the shape (including seam allowances) on the dull side and cut out with paper scissors. Press (dull side up) onto the right side of the fabric and cut out. Your template can be used several times.
Rotary Cutter, Rotary Cutting Mat, and Rotary Cutting Ruler
In addition to your rotary cutter for fabric, you may also want to have a separate rotary cutter just for paper, since paper dulls blades faster than fabric. Use only mats and rulers specifically for use with rotary cutters.
Just like rotary cutters, use one pair of scissors for paper and another pair for thread and fabric. This helps keep your fabric tools in excellent condition.
Pins
You have two options:
You can use heavier-weight pins that bend less as you pin the fabric onto the paper pattern; however, these do not allow the paper to lie flat when aligning seams. Or, you can use lighter-weight pins that bend more easily but allow the paper to lie flatter.
Thread
You will want to use a quality cotton thread. You can either match it to the project you are working on or use a neutral gray or tan.
Extrafine Seam Ripper
Because you will be using a smaller-than-usual stitch length, you will need a very sharp seam ripper.
Tape
Sometimes you will need to pick out seams. Because the stitch length is smaller than usual, this can sometimes cause the paper to tear on the sewn line. You can use removable tape sparingly to create a temporary bond to hold the pieces together, but never use a hot iron directly on the tape—it will melt. You can also use Sewer’s Fix-it Tape (by Nancy’s Notions), which can be ironed over. If the pieces of paper are overlapped, as in the Pineapple border pattern, you can use Roxanne Glue-Baste-It.
Mini Iron
This is a great tool to have right next to your sewing machine for pressing each sewn seam. It uses a lot less energy than a traditional iron and gets plenty hot.
Add-A-Quarter Ruler
These special rulers have a ¼” lip that makes it very easy to trim seam allowances when paper piecing.
Surgical Tweezers
These sharp-nosed tweezers are very helpful when removing the tiny pieces of paper that can be caught in the seams after the majority of the paper is torn away.