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SLAPSAUCE

Food

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An apple pie without the cheese is like the kiss without the squeeze

(1929)

British food is often unfavourably compared with the cuisines of other nations. But why on earth should this be?

dribble-beards (Scotland 1829) long strips of cabbage in broth

dog and maggot (UK military forces) biscuits and cheese

chussha-wagga (Worcestershire) inferior cheese

druschoch (Ayrshire) any liquid food of a nauseating appearance

HORSE FODDER

Dr Johnson famously described oats as ‘a grain which is in England given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people’. Turnips on the other hand have long sustained people on both sides of the border. In the dialect of north-east England they have been known as bagies, naggies, narkies, nashers, snadgers, snaggers, snannies, snarters, tungies and yammies. In Scotland they’re called neeps, as in bashed neeps (mashed turnips) the traditional accompaniment to haggis.

KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL

Pig-months (19C) are those months in the year which have an ‘r’ in their name: that is, all except the summer months of May, June, July or August, when it was traditionally considered unwise to eat pork (or shellfish). But however safe your ingredients, correct preparation is essential:

spitchcock (1675) to prepare an eel for the table

bonx (Essex) to beat up batter for pudding

engastration (1814) the act of stuffing one bird into another (the result is called a turducken)

sclench (Shropshire) to check water at its boiling point, by dashing cold water into it

swinge (Newfoundland 1896) to burn the down off sea-birds after plucking the feathers

CAT’S PRAYERS

Fancy names abound for different types of food, whether they be barely edible, plain or thought of as a delicacy:

Boston strawberries (US late 19C) baked beans

call-dog (Jamaican English 1943) a fish too small for human consumption (so one calls the dog to eat it)

first lady (US drugstore jargon 1930s) spare ribs (Eve was made from Adam’s rib)

scuttle-mouth (1848) a small oyster in a very large shell

pishpash (Anglo-Indian) a slop of rice-soup with small pieces of meat in it

bobby-jub (Yorkshire) strawberries and cream

dandyfunk (nautical jargon 1883) a ship’s biscuit, soaked in water, mixed with fat and molasses, and baked in a pan

spadger (Tudor–Stuart) a sparrow; something small and tasty (sparrows were an Elizabethan delicacy)

armored cow (US army slang 1940s) canned milk

honeymoon salad (US diner jargon) lettuce alone (i.e. ‘let us alone’)

Adam and Eve on a raft (US diner jargon) two fried eggs on a piece of toast

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PLUS ONE

Whatever you put on your table, you can be fairly sure that there’ll be someone around to hoover it up:

smell-feast (1519) one who haunts good tables, a greedy sponger

cosherer (1634) someone who feasts or lives upon the industry of others

slapsauce (1573) a person who enjoys eating fine food, a glutton

hodger (US slang) a guest who eats all of the host’s food and drinks all of the host’s drinks

STOP PINGLING

Perhaps the best you can hope for is reasonable table manners:

dooadge (Yorkshire) to handle food in a messy way (often said of children)

mimp (1861) to play with one’s food

pingle (Suffolk) to move food about on the plate for want of an appetite

sword swallower (Australian slang) someone eating from his knife, especially among shearers

yaffle (1788) to eat or drink especially noisily or greedily

… or at least guests who aren’t fussy eaters:

pica (1563) a strong and unnatural craving for unsuitable food (such as chalk), which occurs during pregnancy

omophagist (1884) a person who eats raw flesh

pozzy-wallah (Tommies’ slang 1914–18) a man inordinately fond of jam

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POST-PRANDIAL

And then, hunger sated, you have the opportunity to sit back, digest and relax. Just keep an eye on all your guests…

rizzle (1890) to enjoy a short period of absolute idleness after a meal

nooningscaup (Yorkshire 18C) the labourer’s resting time after dinner

dando (19C) one who frequents hotels, eating-houses and other such places, satisfies his appetite and decamps without payment

WORD JOURNEYS

omelette (17C from French via Latin) a thin flat blade

pittance (13C from Latin via Old French) originally a pious request; then (14C) donations to monastic orders on a person’s death to be spent on food and wine to be served on the anniversary of the donor’s death; then (16C) these diminished to the extent of meaning a sparing allowance

bulb (17C from Ancient Greek via Latin) an onion

companion (18C from Latin) someone who eats bread with you