A taera negra a fa bon gran.
Black earth makes good wheat.
—Genoese proverb
Although pasta is usually associated with Italy, it is also made in most countries around the Mediterranean, especially in Croatia, most of the Greek islands, Provence, and Catalan, Spain. Pasta is also much appreciated by the Turks. Manti (a kind of ravioli) was known in Turkey as early as the twelfth century. Pasta is also prepared in North Africa, especially in Libya (which was briefly under Italian rule) and Tunisia, where it is usually served with hot, spicy sauces.
To cook pasta, allow at least 4 quarts of water and 2 teaspoons salt to 1 pound of pasta. Cook the pasta until it is al dente—just tender, but still firm.
Pasta All’Uova
Most cooks in Italy agree that the best pasta all’uova is produced using 90 to 100 grams flour (about % cup) to 1 egg. If the dough is too wet, add a little more flour. If it is too dry, add a teaspoon or so of water. The thickness can also vary. As a general rule, it is paper thin for lasagne and tagliatelle and slightly thicker for piccagge and fettucine.
2 cup sunbleached white flour
3 large eggs
½ teaspoon salt
Place the flour in a mound on a large wooden board or work surface and make a deep well in the center of the flour. Drop in 1 egg at a time and add the salt. Beat the eggs lightly with a fork and gradually add some of the flour. Then with your hands, slowly incorporate more flour until it forms a soft ball. Knead the dough well for about 10 minutes, or until it is smooth and elastic.
Wrap the dough in a damp cloth and allow it to rest for 20 to 60 minutes. Then divide it in half. Keep one half of the dough wrapped. With a long thin rolling pin, roll out the remaining dough on a floured work surface, making quarter turns to form a rectangle. Stretch and roll the dough repeatedly until it is very thin.
Repeat with the other half of dough. If you are making ravioli, use it right away. If making long pasta, allow the dough to dry out for 15 minutes, or until it is no longer sticky, before cutting. Makes about 1 pound.
Taggiaen Verdi
In Liguria, green noodles are often made with a mixture of borage and spinach, which gives them a distinctive flavor. They are usually served with a mushroom and tomato sauce, but they are also very good simply dressed with melted butter, Parmesan cheese, and a grating of nutmeg.
DOUGH:
2 ounces borage
¼ pound spinach
2 ¼ cups unbleached white flour
2 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
MUSHROOM AND TOMATO SAUCE:
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ small onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 teaspoon fresh marjoram
¼ cup dry white wine
3 cups ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons butter
freshly grated Pecorino Sardo or Parmesan cheese
To make the noodles, wash the borage and spinach well and cook in a covered saucepan for 7 to 8 minutes or until tender. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain well and squeeze dry. Chop finely.
Place the flour in a mound on a large wooden board and make a deep well in the centre. Place the chopped vegetables, eggs, and salt in the well and gradually work in some of the flour. Then, with your hands, slowly incorporate more flour until it forms a soft ball, adding a little more flour if it is too soft. Knead the dough for about 10 minutes and proceed as for pasta all uova on page 129.
Roll the dough out very thinly and leave to dry out for 15 minutes. Roll up and cut into ¼-inch-wide noodles. Unfold and spread them out on a large cloth to dry out.
To make the sauce, soak the mushrooms in warm water for 30 minutes or until softened. Drain and chop coarsely. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion, garlic, and herbs over moderate heat for 2 or 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes or until tender. Pour in the wine, raise the heat, and cook until it is evaporated. Add the tomatoes and cook for a further 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken.
Cook the noodles in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until they are tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Dot with butter and pour over the sauce. Toss lightly and serve with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Reuchta bil Tomatem wa Filfil
Tunisians are fond of egg noodles, which are made in all shapes and sizes. The most common are hlelem (very fine noodles which usually appear in soups), reuchta (which vary from ¼ to 1 inch in width), and noissars (little square egg noodles). Reuchta are usually served with a hot spicy tomato sauce that often includes roast peppers or tiny peas.
DOUGH:
2 cups flour
3 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
SAUCE:
4 sweet red peppers
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1-2 small red chili peppers (to taste), cored, seeded, and chopped
2 tablespoons torn basil leaves
1 teaspoon paprika
1-2 teaspoons harissa, to taste
1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped salt
1 tablespoons butter
To make the egg noodles, follow the directions for pasta all’uova on page 129. Roll the dough out very thinly and leave to dry for 15 minutes. Roll up and cut into ½-inch-wide noodles. Unfold and spread the noodles out on a large cloth to dry.
To make the sauce, roast the peppers under a hot grill until they are blackened all over. Wash under cold water and remove the skins. Cut into quarters and remove the core and seeds. Slice thinly.
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is softened. Add the garlic and chili and cook for 2 minutes. Add the basil, paprika, harissa, chopped tomatoes, and red peppers, and salt to taste. Cook, uncovered, over low heat for 15 minutes or until the vegetables are tender and the sauce starts to thicken.
Cook the egg noodles in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until they are tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Dot with butter and pour over the sauce. Toss lightly and serve at once. Serves 4.
Piccagge con Tocco di Articocche
This recipe comes from the Riviera di Ponente, which lies between Savona and the French border. Piccagge are long thin ribbons of pasta similar to fettucine that are only found in Liguria.This sauce is also very good served with rice.
DOUGH:
2 cups unbleached white flour
2 large eggs
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1-2 tablespoons dry white wine
½ teaspoon salt
ARTICHOKE SAUCE:
4 medium artichokes
½ lemon
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
½ cup dry white wine
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons butter
freshly grated Pecorino Sardo or Parmesan cheese
To make the piccagge, follow the directions for pasta all’uova on page 129, adding the olive oil and white wine with the eggs. Roll the dough out very thinly and leave to dry for 15 minutes. Roll up and cut into ¼-inch-wide noodles.
Cut off the tops of the artichokes and remove all the inedible leaves. Trim the stems. Slice the artichokes in half and remove the fuzzy chokes. Slice the remaining hearts very thinly. Rub all over with the lemon to prevent them from discoloring.
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion, garlic, and parsley over moderate heat for 3 minutes. Add the artichokes, cover, and cook over gentle heat for 8 to 10 minutes. Add the wine and seasoning. When it is boiling, cover and simmer until the vegetables are tender and sauce is reduced.
Cook the piccagge in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Dot with butter and pour over the sauce. Toss lightly and serve with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Fettucine, Piselli, e Fave
This recipe comes from Le Marche where it is made in springtime with young tender peas and broad beans.
DOUGH:
2 cups unbleached white flour
3 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
PEA AND BROAD BEAN SAUCE:
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 baby carrot, chopped
1 cup fresh shelled peas, or frozen petit pois
1 cup shelled and skinned broad beans, or frozen baby broad beans
½ cup dry white wine
5 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese
To make the tagliatelle, follow the directions for pasta all’uova on page 129. Roll the dough out very thinly and leave to dry for 15 minutes. Roll up and cut into ¼-inch-wide noodles.
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan and cook the onion, garlic, celery, and carrot over gentle heat for 10 minutes without browning. Add the peas, broad beans, and wine and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes or until the vegetables are tender and the liquid is evaporated. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook for 10 minutes or until the sauce is thickened.
Cook the tagliatelle in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Pour over the hot sauce and serve with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Macaronia me Horta
Wild greens such as vlita, a member of the amaranth family, zachos (sow thistle), and wild chicory are widely used in cooking all over Greece. Young tender dandelion leaves, sorrel, turnip tops, mustard greens, or rocket all make good substitutes.
DOUGH:
2 cups unbleached white flour
3 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
SAUCE:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 small red chili pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
1 pound wild greens, stalks removed, and coarsely chopped
2 ounces Elitses or Gaeta black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
TOPPING:
freshly grated Kefalotyri or pecorino cheese
To make the egg noodles, follow the directions for pasta all’uova on page 129. Roll the dough out very thinly and leave to dry for 15 minutes. Roll up and cut into ⅛-inch-wide noodles. Unfold and spread them out on a large cloth to dry.
To make the sauce, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the garlic and chili pepper for 1 minute. Add the greens and olives. Cover and cook over a moderate heat for 7 to 8 minutes or until the green are tender.
Meanwhile cook the noodles in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until they are tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Cover with the greens and toss lightly. Serve at once with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Penne alla Vesuviana
This recipe comes from the Bay of Naples, where it is made with the finest ingredients—pure white mozzarella made from buffalo’s milk, Gaeta olives, capers preserved in salt (well rinsed), and San Marzano tomatoes. Traditionally, this dish is served without any grated cheese.
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh oregano
3 cups canned plum tomatoes, forced through a sieve or puréed in a food processor
¾ pound penne or other short macaroni
24 black Gaeta olives
2 tablespoons capers
½ pound mozzarella cheese, diced
2 tablespoons torn basil leaves
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the garlic and oregano for 2 minutes. Add the puréed tomatoes and cook over a moderate heat for 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. Season with salt and black pepper.
Cook the penne in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until tender but still firm. Drain, and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Pour over the remaining olive oil and add the olives, capers, diced mozzarella, and basil. Toss lightly and serve at once. Serves 4.
Maccarons amb Bolets
This dish from Catalonia is usually made with rossinyols (Cantharellus gambosa)—wild mushrooms that are similar to the French chanterelle. If they are not available, any other quality mushroom may be used instead.
1 pound chanterelles or other quality mushrooms
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
¾ pound short macaroni, such as ziti or penne
freshly grated Manchego or pecorino cheese
Wash the mushrooms and cut them into 2 or 4 pieces. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion over a moderate heat until it is translucent. Add the parsley and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook, uncovered, until they are tender and any liquid they have given off has evaporated. Add the tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. Season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper.
Cook the macaroni in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until it is tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Pour over the sauce, toss lightly, and serve at once with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Trenette Avvantaggiate con Fagiolini e Pesto
Trenette avvantaggiate are a specialty of Genoa. They are long flat egg noodles about ¼-inch-wide that are made with a mixture of whole wheat and white flour. They are usually served with green beans and pesto. Sometimes a couple of peeled and diced potatoes are added in which case the green beans are reduced by about one third.
DOUGH:
1⅓ cup unbleached white flour
⅔ cup whole wheat flour
3 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
SAUCE:
¾ pound green beans
2 tablespoons butter
1 recipe Pesto Sauce
freshly grated Pecorino Sardo or Parmesan cheese
To make the egg noodles, combine the flours and place on a large wooden board or work surface. Proceed to make the pasta all’uova on page 129. Roll the dough out very thinly and leave to dry out for 15 minutes. Roll up and cut into ¼-inch-wide noodles.
Trim the green beans and cut them in half. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to the boil. Add the green beans and cook for 8 to 9 minutes, or until they are almost cooked. Add the egg noodles and continue to cook until they are tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Dot with butter and pour over the pesto sauce. Toss lightly and serve with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Orecchiette con Patate e Ruchetta
This dish comes from Apulia where more potatoes are grown than in any other region of Italy. The combination of potatoes and pasta is surprisingly light and well worth trying.
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 small red chili pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped
2 tablespoons torn basil leaves
1 tablespoon fresh oregano
1½ pounds ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
½ pound waxy potatoes, peeled and diced
1 bunch rocket, trimmed and cut into strips
¾ pound orecchiette
freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the garlic, chili, basil, and oregano for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and season with salt and black pepper. Cook, uncovered, over moderate heat for 10 minutes or until the sauce is thickened.
Cook the potatoes in a large pot of lightly salted water until they are half cooked. Add the rocket and orecchiette and continue to cook until the pasta is tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Pour over the sauce, toss lightly, and serve with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Fideus Campesinos
Fideus or fideos are short strands of pasta, 1 to 2 inches long, similar to vermicelli. Unlike most pasta, they are not cooked in a large pot of water and drained. Instead, they are cooked like paella or risotto until they are tender and all the liquid is absorbed. This method of preparing pasta is also found in parts of Greece and Turkey, where it was probably introduced by Sephardic Jews after they fled the Inquisition.
1 pound zucchini
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
5 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
¼cup black olives, pitted and sliced
½ teaspoon paprika
½ cup dry white wine
3½ cups water
¼ teaspoon powdered saffron, dissolved in a little hot water
salt
freshly ground black pepper
4 cups vermicelli, broken into 1½-inch lengths
Trim the ends of the zucchini and slice them thinly. Heat the olive oil in a large casserole or paella pan and cook the garlic and parsley over moderate heat for 1 minute. Add the zucchini and continue to cook until they are golden on both sides.
Add the tomatoes, black olives, and paprika and cook until the sauce is reduced. Add the wine, water, and saffron liquid, and season with salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil. Add the vermicelli and simmer for about 10 minutes or until it is tender and all the liquid is absorbed. Stir often to make sure the vermicelli does not stick to the pan. Serves 4.
Tagliatelle alla Contadina
In this recipe from Tuscany, the tagliatelle are cooked together with borlotti beans and potatoes and served with a light tomato and onion sauce with grated cheese on the side.
¾ cup dried borlotti beans
1-2 sage leaves
a sprig of rosemary
½ pound waxy potatoes, peeled and diced
1 pound egg noodles
1-2 tablespoons butter
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
TOMATO AND ONION SAUCE:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh marjoram
1½ pounds ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Soak the beans in cold water overnight and drain. Bring to a boil in plenty of unsalted water with the sage and rosemary. Cover and simmer for 1½ to 2 hours or until the beans are tender. Drain well and remove the rosemary.
To make the tomato sauce, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the garlic, onion, and herbs over a moderate heat for 5 minutes or until the onions are softened. Add the tomatoes and season with salt and black pepper. Cook for a further 15 minutes or until the sauce is thickened.
Meanwhile cook the potatoes in plenty of lightly salted boiling water. Five minutes before the end of cooking, add the borlotti beans and the egg noodles and cook until they are tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Dot with butter and pour over the hot sauce. Toss lightly and serve at once with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4 to 5.
Linguine con Ovoli e Salsa di Noci
Ovoli mushrooms (Amanida caesarea) are highly prized in Italy for their fine flavor. They usually grow under oak or chestnut trees and are easily distinguished by their bright orange caps. Although they are generally eaten raw, they do occasionally appear in sauces for pasta, like this one from Liguria.
¾ pound ovoli or other quality mushrooms
2 ounces freshly shelled walnuts
1 garlic clove, crushed
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 or 4 tablespoons water
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 pound linguine
2 tablespoons butter
Trim the ends of the mushrooms and cut them into fairly thick slices.
To make the walnut sauce, place the walnuts, garlic, and parsley in a mortar and pound with a pestle to form a coarse paste. Alternatively, you may place the ingredients in a blender or food processor. Add the Parmesan cheese and mix well. Gradually dribble in the olive oil and enough water to make a smooth, creamy sauce. Season with salt and black pepper.
Cook the mushrooms in a large pot of lightly salted boiling water until they are half cooked. Add the linguine and cook until tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving dish. Dot with butter and pour over the sauce. Toss lightly and serve at once. Serves 4.
Tagliatelle con Patate e Cavoli
This traditional peasant dish from Tuscany could not be easier to prepare. The egg noodles are cooked together with the potatoes and black cabbage and served dressed with fruity extra virgin olive oil and grated cheese.
1 pound Tuscan black cabbage
½ pound waxy potatoes, peeled and diced
1 pound egg noodles
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
freshly ground black pepper
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Remove the ribs from the black cabbage and cut into thin strips.
Bring the potatoes and cabbage to a boil in a large saucepan of lightly salted boiling water. Cook for 15 minutes. Add the egg noodles and cook until tender but still firm.
Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Pour over the olive oil and season with plenty of black pepper. Toss lightly and serve with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Lasagnette coi Funghi, Fave, e Melanzane
This dish has a lovely combination of textures and flavors. Lasagnette are egg noodles about half an wide. They are sometimes called taglierini in Sicily.
2 small eggplants, about 1 pound
salt
extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh oregano
1½ small red chili pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped
½ pound mushrooms, sliced
1½ pounds ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
16 black olives, pitted and sliced
1 tablespoon capers
1 cup fresh shelled and skinned broad beans, or frozen baby broad beans
1 pound egg noodles
freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese
Trim the ends of the eggplants and dice into ½-inch pieces. Place in a colander and sprinkle with salt. Set aside for 1 hour to release bitter juices. Fry in hot oil. Drain on paper towels and keep warm.
Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the garlic, oregano, and chili for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and cook until they are tender. Add the tomatoes and cook over moderate heat for 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. Add the olives and capers and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Bring the broad beans to boil in a large pan of lightly salted boiling water. Cook for 10 minutes. Add the egg noodles and cook until they are tender, but still firm. Drain and transfer to a heated serving bowl. Pour over the sauce and toss lightly. Top with the fried eggplant and serve with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Fakomatso
This dish is a cross between a stew and a pasta dish. It is made with lentils and orzo (small pellets of pasta a little larger than a grain of rice). The orzo are not cooked like pasta in a separate pan of boiling water. Instead, they are simmered with the lentils in an onion and tomato sauce until they are tender.
1½ cups small brown lentils
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
4 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 quart water
¾ cup orzo
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Soak the lentils for 2 hours and drain. Heat the olive oil in a pan and cook the onions over a moderate heat until they start to turn golden. Add the tomatoes and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the lentils and 1 quart of water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 50 to 60 minutes, or until the lentils are tender. Add the orzo and seasoning. Simmer for a further 20 minutes, adding a little more hot water, if necessary, to prevent them from sticking. Serve hot. Serves 4.
Beyaz Peynirli Makarna
This dish can be made in just about as much time as it takes to cook the noodles. It is especially good served with a large leafy salad and a bowl of black olives on the side. Beyaz peynir is a fresh white cheese that is usually made with cow’s milk. If it is unavailable, feta cheese may be used instead.
½ pound egg noodles
3 tablespoons butter
6 ounces beyaz peynir or feta cheese, crumbled
Cook the noodles in plenty of lightly salted water until they are tender but still firm. Drain. Melt the butter in a large pot and add the egg noodles. Stir well. Add the cheese and cook over a gentle heat for 2 or 3 minutes or until the pasta is heated through and the cheese is melted. Serve at once. Serves 2 to 3.
Krafi de Albona
Krafi de Albona is the old Italian dialect name for these cheese-filled ravioli from Albona in Istria. The touch of sweetness goes very well with the dressing of melted butter and grated cheese. Pujine is a fresh white cheese similar to ricotta.
DOUGH:
2 cups unbleached white flour
3 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
FILLING:
1½ cups ricotta or pujine cheese
1 egg
2 tablespoons raisins
2 teaspoons sugar
a grating of nutmeg
SAUCE:
½ cup butter, melted
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
To make the filling, place the ricotta, egg, raisins, sugar, and nutmeg in a bowl and mix well. To make the ravioli, follow the directions for egg noodles on page 129. Roll the dough out to 2 very thin rectangles of equal size. Place a teaspoonful of the filling over one of the sheets at regular intervals about 2 inches apart. Cover with the other sheet of dough. Using your fingertips, press well around each mound. Cut the ravioli into 2 inches squares with a pastry knife or ravioli wheel.
Line them up on a lightly floured board or tray, making sure they do not touch, and leave for 15 minutes to dry. Cook the ravioli in plenty of lightly salted boiling water for 5 or 6 minutes or until they are just tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a heated serving dish. Pour over the melted butter and serve at once with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Agnolotti alla Sarda
These delicious little ravioli are filled with a mixture of roasted eggplant, fresh Pecorino cheese, egg yolks, and ground walnuts. They are usually served with a light tomato and basil sauce and grated cheese. If fresh Pecorino is unavailable, ricotta may be used instead.
DOUGH:
1½ cups semolina or unbleached white flour
2 eggs
¼ teaspoon powdered saffron dissolved in a little warm water
a pinch of salt
FILLING:
1 medium eggplant about ½ pound
extra virgin olive oil
¾ cup fresh Pecorino or ricotta cheese
2 egg yolks
¼ cup freshly shelled walnuts, finely ground in a blender
3 tablespoons freshly grated Pecorino Sardo or Parmesan cheese
salt
freshly ground black pepper
TOMATO AND BASIL SAUCE:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
a handful of fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
To make the pasta, follow the directions for pasta all’uova on page 129 adding the saffron liquid with the eggs.
To make the filling, bake the eggplant in a preheated 375°F oven for 40 minutes or until it is tender. Remove from the oven and cut in half. Scoop out the flesh and mash with a fork. Combine the fresh Pecorino Sardo cheese and egg yolks in a bowl. Add the mashed eggplant, walnuts, and grated cheese and mix well. Season with salt and black pepper. To make the sauce, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the garlic over moderate heat until it starts to turn golden. Add the tomatoes and cook for a further 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. Add the basil and seasoning to taste and simmer for 1 or 2 more minutes.
Roll the dough out to two very thin rectangles of equal size. Place teaspoonfuls of the filling over one sheet of dough at regular intervals about 1½ inches apart. Cover with the other sheet of dough. Using your fingertips, press well around each mound. Cut the ravioli into 1½-inch squares with a pastry or ravioli wheel. Line them up on a lightly floured board or tray, making sure they do not touch, and leave for 10 to 15 minutes to dry.
Cook the ravioli in plenty of lightly salted water for 4 to 5 minutes or until they are just tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a heated serving dish. Pour over the sauce and serve at once. Serves 3 to 4.
Raviolis
In Corsica ravioli is usually stuffed with a mixture of fresh brocciu cheese, spinach, and wild herbs such as frigula (borage), insalatone (lamb’s lettuce), or puleghin (wild mint). If brocciu is unavailable, pecorino may be used instead.
DOUGH:
2 cups unbleached white flour
3 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
FILLING:
½ pound spinach
¼ pound lamb’s lettuce
¼ pound borage
1 cup ricotta
1 egg
¼ cup freshly grated dried brocciu or pecorino cheese
2 tablespoons finely chopped mint
SAUCE:
1 recipe “Tomato and Basil Sauce”
freshly grated aged brocciu or pecorino cheese
Wash the spinach, lamb’s lettuce, and borage and cook in a covered saucepan for 5 to 7 minutes over moderate heat or until they are tender. Squeeze dry and chop coarsely. Combine the chopped greens with the ricotta, egg, grated cheese, and mint in a mixing bowl and season with salt and black pepper. Blend well.
To make the dough, follow the directions for pasta all’uova on page 129. Allow the dough to rest and roll out into two very thin sheets. Place teaspoonfuls of the filling over one sheet of the dough at regular intervals about 2-inches apart. Cover with the other sheet of dough and press well around each mound. Cut the ravioli into 2 inch squares with a pastry or ravioli cutter. Line them up on a lightly floured board or tray in one layer and leave for 15 minutes to dry.
Cook the ravioli in plenty of lightly salted boiling water for 4 to 5 minutes or until they are just tender. Transfer to a heated serving bowl. Pour over the hot tomato sauce and serve at once with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Pansôti di Zucca
Pansôti means “pot-bellied” in Ligurian dialect. They are usually triangular in shape and contain slightly more filling than most ravioli—about 1 heaping teaspoonful. They are also very good served with pesto.
DOUGH:
2 ¼ cups unbleached white flour
3 eggs
1-2 teaspoons dry white wine
FILLING:
1 pound cooked pumpkin
½ cup ricotta
1 egg yolk
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
SAUCE:
½ cup butter, melted
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
To make the pasta, follow the directions for pasta all’uova on page 129, adding the wine with the eggs. To make the filling, combine the cooked pumpkin, ricotta, egg yolk, and Parmesan cheese in a bowl. Mix well and season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper.
Roll the dough out into thin sheets, one at a time. Cut the first sheet into 2¼-inch squares and place 1 heaping teaspoonful of the filling in the centre of each square.
Fold over diagonally to make triangles. Using your fingertips, press along the edges to seal. Repeat with the remaining sheets of dough. Line the pansôti up on a lightly floured board or tray, making sure they do not touch, and leave for 15 minutes to dry.
Cook the pansoti in plenty of lightly salted boiling water for 5 to 6 minutes or until they are just tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a heated serving dish. Pour over the melted butter and serve at once with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Ma’karoni bil-Batinjan
This dish consists of layers of cooked macaroni, fried eggplant, tomato sauce, and grated cheese. In Lebanon, they use Kashkavan or (Romanian Kashkaval)—a hard yellow cheese that is usually made from ewe’s milk. If it is unavailable, Greek Kasseri or Gruyere cheese may be used instead.
2 large eggplants, about 1½ pounds
salt
vegetable oil for frying
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
a few thyme leaves
1½ pounds ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
freshly ground black pepper
¼ pound short macaroni, such as penne or ziti
1½ pound Kashkaval, Kasseri, or Gruyère cheese, grated
Trim the ends of the eggplants and cut into rounds about ¼ inch thick. Sprinkle with salt and set in a colander for 1 hour to release the bitter juices. Wash off the salt and pat dry. Fry in hot olive oil until golden on both sides. Drain on a paper towel.
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion, garlic, and thyme over a moderate heat until it is softened. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken.
Cook the macaroni in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until it is tender but still firm. Arrange a layer of fried eggplant in the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish. Cover with a layer of macaroni and tomato sauce and sprinkle over some grated cheese. Repeat until all the layers are used up, ending with the grated cheese on top. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven, until the top is golden and the sauce is bubbling. Serves 4.
Orecchiette con i Funghi
Orecchiette are the most popular form of pasta in Apulia. They are shaped like concave disks or little ears. In this recipe, they are dressed with a wild mushroom and tomato sauce. Mozzarella and grated cheese, and baked in the oven until the cheese is melted and the top is golden.
¾ pound mixed wild mushrooms
¼ extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh oregano
1½ pounds ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 pound orecchiette
½ pound mozzarella, diced
1 cup freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese
Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth to remove any dirt or grit, and cut into fairly thin slices. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion, garlic, parsley, and oregano over a moderate heat for 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook until they start to give off their juices. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook for 15 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. Season with salt and black pepper.
Cook the orecchiette in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until tender but still firm. Drain and transfer to a well-oiled shallow baking dish. Pour over the tomato sauce and top with the mozzarella and ¾ cup grated cheese. Mix gently with a fork. Sprinkle over the remaining grated cheese and bake in a preheated 350°F oven until the cheese is melted and top is golden. Serves 4.
Tian de Gnocchi a la Niçarde
In Provence, potato gnocchi are made with or without eggs. As a general rule, there is no need to add eggs if using waxy potatoes such as Desiree. Floury “old” potatoes such as King Edwards, however, usually need some egg in order to prevent them from falling apart.
GNOCCHI:
2 pounds floury potatoes
2 egg yolks
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
about 1¾ cups unbleached white flour
TOMATO COULIS:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 shallots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
a few thyme leaves
a pinch of sugar
salt
freshly ground black pepper
TOPPING:
⅔ cup Gruyere cheese, grated
Scrub the potatoes and bring to a boil in lightly salted water for 20 minutes or until they are tender. Drain and remove the skins when they are cool enough to handle. Force through a sieve onto a lightly floured work surface or board. While the potatoes are still warm, add the egg yolks and mix well. Season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Gradually work in just enough flour to make a soft dough. Too much flour will make the gnocchi heavy.
Roll the dough out into long cylinders about the thickness of your finger, then cut into 1-inch lengths. Press eachgnocco against the prongs of a fork. This helps them to hold the sauce.
To make the sauce, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and add the shallots and garlic. Cook over moderate heat for 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, thyme, and sugar and cook for a further 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. Season with salt and black pepper. Cook the gnocchi in plenty of lightly unsalted boiling water. Salted water can make the gnocchi stick together. The gnocchi will float to the surface just before they are cooked.
Cook for 2 or 3 more minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a well-oiled shallow baking dish. Sprinkle with half of the Gruyère cheese and pour over the sauce. Mix gently with a fork. Sprinkle over the remaining grated cheese and bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes or until the top is golden. Serves 4.
Lazanje u Pećnici
Lasagne is one of the many pasta dishes that the Dalmatians adopted from the Italians. In this recipe, it is layered with Swiss chard, pujine cheese, béchamel and tomato sauce, and grated cheese. Pujine is a fresh white cheese similar to ricotta.
DOUGH:
2 cups unbleached white flour
3 eggs
¼ teaspoon salt
FILLING:
1 pound Swiss chard or spinach
1 recipe bechamel sauce
1 recipe Tomato and Basil Sauce
1½ cups ricotta or pujine cheese
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
To make the lasagne, follow the directions for pasta all’uova on page 129. Allow it to rest, then roll out thinly. Cut into rectangles about 4½ by 7 inches.
To make the filling, wash the Swiss chard and cut away the stalks. Cook in a covered saucepan over moderate heat for 5 minutes, or until the Swiss chard is tender. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain and chop coarsely.
Cook 6 sheets of lasagne at a time in plenty of lightly salted boiling water for 3 or 4 minutes, or until just tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and rinse under cold water. Lay the lasagne flat on a towel. Repeat until all the lasagne are cooked.
Arrange a layer of lasagne over the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish. Spoon a little ricotta over the lasagne and cover with a layer of chopped Swiss chard. Spoon over a little bechamel sauce and then some tomato sauce. Sprinkle some grated cheese over the top. Repeat the layers until all the ingredients are used up, finishing with lasagne, bechamel sauce, and grated cheese. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 to 40 minutes or until the top is golden and the sauce is bubbling. Serves 4 to 6.