A kettle will not boil without its lid.
—Turkish proverb
Rice is a staple in most of the Mediterranean countries. It was first introduced to the Middle East from Asia around 1000 B.C., then the Arabs spread it across North Africa to Sicily and Spain in the eighth century.
Each country prepares rice in its own way. In Turkey and most of the Middle East, there is a preference for long-grain rice that is cooked like a pilaf. In Spain and Italy, they like to use short-grain or medium-grain rice for paella and risotti. The exact time of cooking depends on the type of rice used and the way it is cooked.
Couscous is the national dish of all the countries of the Magreb—Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, and Libya. It is made with semolina that is sprinkled with water and flour and hand-rolled until it forms granules. Traditionally, it is served for lunch on Fridays and for festivals and special occasions.
To prepare couscous the authentic way can be a lengthy process. First the couscous is placed in a wide shallow bowl, covered with water, and drained. It is then left for about 15 minutes to swell. The grains are then gently rubbed through the fingers to remove any lumps and transferred to the top of a couscousiere to steam over boiling water or a stew. Once the steam has penetrated all the way through the couscous, it is returned to the bowl and sprinkled with cold water. The whole process is then repeated (sometimes up to seven times) until the couscous is very light and fluffy. A little smen (a kind of clarified butter), butter, or olive oil is then mixed into the grain to enhance the flavor. It is then ready to serve.
Fortunately, most of the couscous available in this country are precooked and can be made very quickly and easily. Just follow the directions on the packet.
Roz Klaya
In Tunisia, rice pilaf is usually delicately flavored with spigol—a spice mixture based on turmeric, paprika, and a little powdered saffron. Serve it as an accompaniment to vegetable stews or tajines.
2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1½ cups long-grain rice
2½ cups boiling vegetable broth or water
¼ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon turmeric
a good pinch of powdered saffron
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan and cook the onion over a moderate heat until it is softened. Stir in the rice and cook for 2 minutes, or until the grains start to whiten. Add the boiling broth and spices and season with salt and black pepper. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes or until the rice is tender and small craters have appeared over the surface of the rice. Remove from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes before serving. Serves 4.
Risotto con Asparagi di Campo
This delicate risotto comes from the Veneto, where wild asparagus is much appreciated for its fine flavor. If it is unavailable, choose young tender asparagus with thin green spears instead.
About 4 cups vegetable broth or water
¾ pound wild or thin green asparagus
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons butter
1½ cups arborio rice
½ cup dry white wine
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Bring the broth to boil in a saucepan and keep just under the simmering point.
Trim the ends of the asparagus and remove any fibrous, inedible parts from the lower stalks with a sharp knife. Cut into 1-inch lengths. Heat the olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a heavy saucepan and cook the asparagus over a gentle heat for 10 minutes, taking care that it does not brown. Stir in the rice and cook for 1 minute. Add the wine, raise the heat, and when it has completely evaporated, add a ladleful of broth. Cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is almost evaporated.
Add another ladleful of broth and repeat until the rice is tender but still firm. The finished risotto should be slightly creamy. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining butter and half of the Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and black pepper and serve at once with the remaining grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Roz bil Tamar
This traditional Bedouin dish is much loved in Libya, where it is often made for weddings and other special occasions.
2 tablespoons butter or ghee
1½ cups long-grain rice
2½ cups boiling water
salt
freshly ground black pepper
GARNISH:
3 tablespoons butter
⅓ cup blanched almonds, cut in half lengthwise
½ cup dates, pitted and cut in half lengthwise
1 teaspoon rose water
Melt the butter and stir in the rice. Cook over a moderate heat for 2 minutes. Add the boiling water and seasoning to taste. Cover and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes or until the rice is tender and small craters have appeared over the surface of the rice. Remove from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes.
To make the garnish, melt the butter in a large frying pan and cook the almonds over a moderate heat until they start to turn golden. Add the dates and cook for another 2 or 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the rose water. Transfer the rice to a heated serving dish and spoon the date and almond mixture over the top. Serve at once. Serves 4.
Bourani
Bourani derives from the Persian boorani, which originally meant a “Persian salad.” In Persia today it refers to various vegetables dishes with yoghurt. The dish was then adopted by the Turks, who added rice. When the Turks introduced it to Greece, the yoghurt was omitted.
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced into small pieces
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
2 cups long-grain rice
3 cups boiling water
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based saucepan and cook the onions, red pepper, and garlic over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley and cook for a further 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook for 10 minutes or until the sauce is thickened. Add the rice and boiling water and season with salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes or until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed. Serves 4.
Riži-biži
The Dalmatian version of this famous Venetian dish usually includes tomatoes. Sometimes toasted fennel seeds are added for additional flavor.
about 4 cups boiling broth or water
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 cups freshly shelled peas, or frozen petit pois
1 teaspoon sugar
2 canned plum tomatoes, forced through a sieve or puréed in a food processor
1½ cups arborio rice
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Bring the broth to a boil in a saucepan and keep just below the simmer point. Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is softened. Add the parsley, peas, and sugar and simmer for 3 minutes.
Add the tomato purée and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the rice and seasoning and stir well so each grain is well coated. Add a ladleful of broth and cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is almost evaporated. Add another ladleful of broth and repeat until the rice is tender but still firm and the liquid is evaporated.
The finished risotto should be creamy. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and half of the Parmesan cheese. Serve at once with the remaining cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Rezz bil-S’banegh
This dish is traditionally prepared for Lent in both Syria and Lebanon. It may be served hot or cold. If it is served cold, it is always made with extra virgin olive oil rather than butter.
2 pounds spinach
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1½ cups long-grain rice
a grating of nutmeg
¼ teaspoon allspice
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2½ cups boiling water
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Wash the spinach and cut into very thin strips. Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepan and cook the onion over a moderate heat until it starts to turn golden. Add the spinach and cook for a further 5 or 6 minutes or until it is tender. Stir in the rice and spices and season with salt and black pepper.
Add the water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes or until the rice is tender but still moist. Remove from the heat and set aside for 5 minutes. Serve hot or cold with lemon wedges on the side. Serves 4.
Nohutlu Pilav
Legend has it that one of the great pashas of the Topkapi Palace would have golden nuggets made to look like chickpeas hidden in this pilaf. Any guest fortunate enough to find a golden chickpea would be allowed to keep it for good luck.
3 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil
1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1½ cups long-grain rice
1 cup cooked and drained chickpeas
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon allspice
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2½ cups hot water
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan and cook the leek and parsley over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the rice and cook for 2 or 3 minutes or until the grains start to turn white. Add the chickpeas and spices and season with salt and black pepper. Pour in the hot water and bring to a boil.
Cover and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes or until the liquid is absorbed and small craters have appeared on the surface of the rice. Remove from the heat and let stand at the back of the stove for 5 minutes before serving. Serves 4.
Lahanorizo
This simple peasant dish was traditionally prepared on Wednesdays and Fridays when the eating of meat was forbidden by the Greek Orthodox Church. It is usually served with lemon wedges, but it is also very good sprinkled with a little grated Kefalotyri or pecorino cheese.
1 small green cabbage (about 2 pounds)
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 pound plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup long-grain rice
1½ cup boiling water
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Trim the bases of the cabbage and shred it coarsely. Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepan and add the onion and cabbage. Cover and cook over moderate heat until the vegetables start to turn golden, stirring from time to time so they cook evenly. Add the tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes.
Season with salt and black pepper. Add the rice and stir well. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes or until the rice is tender but still moist. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving. Serve with lemon wedges on the side. Serves 4 to 6.
Riso e Pave
This recipe is a specialty of Bari in Apulia, where it is often called by its dialect name of graneriso e fafe. Broad beans were a staple of the peasants of southern Italy for so many centuries that they were nicknamed carne del poveri—“the meat of the poor.” Today they are often called the queen of vegetables.
About 4 cups vegetable broth or water
1½ cups shelled broad beans or frozen baby broad beans
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
¾ cup canned plum tomatoes, forced through a sieve or puréed in a food processor
2 tablespoons torn basil leaves
1½ cups arborio rice
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons butter
freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese
Place the shelled beans in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes or until they are tender. Drain and set aside. Bring the stock or water to a boil in a saucepan and keep to just below the simmer. Heat the olive oil in another saucepan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is translucent.
Add the beans and tomato purée and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the basil, rice, and a ladleful of hot stock. When the liquid is almost evaporated, add another ladleful of stock. Repeat until the rice is tender, but still firm. This will take about 25 minutes. Stir in the butter and season with salt and black pepper. Serve at once with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Risotto coi Funghi
You can use any combination of wild mushrooms—porcini, oyster mushrooms, morels or chanterelles—for this elegant risotto from the Veneto.
about 4 cups vegetable broth or water
¾ pound mixed wild mushrooms
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 shallots, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1½ cups arborio or vialone rice
½ cup dry white wine
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Bring the broth to boil in a saucepan and keep just below the simmering point. Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth and remove any sand or grit. Slice fairly thinly. Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepan and cook the shallots over moderate heat until they are softened. Add the garlic and parsley and cook for a further 2 minutes.
Add the mushrooms and cook for 10 minutes or until they are tender. Add the rice and stir well. Season with salt and black pepper. Pour in the wine, raise the heat, and cook until it is evaporated. Add a ladleful of broth and cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is almost evaporated. Add another ladleful of stock and repeat until the rice is tender but still firm. The finished risotto should be slightly creamy. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and half of the Parmesan cheese. Serve at once with the remaining Parmesan cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Prassorizo
This simple country dish makes a very good light lunch or supper. Serve it with a dollop of Greek yoghurt or slices of feta cheese on the side.
2 pounds leeks
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 celery stalks, thinly sliced
½ small red chili pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
4 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1½ cups long-grain rice
2 ½ cups boiling vegetable broth or water
Trim the ends of the leeks, cut into 1½-inch lengths, and wash away any dirt that collects between the leaves. Heat the olive oil and cook the onion and celery over moderate heat for 3 minutes. Add the leeks and chili and stir well. Cover and cook over moderate heat for 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are softened.
Add the tomatoes and cook, uncovered, for a further 10 minutes or until the liquid is evaporated. Add the rice and stir well. Pour in the water and season with salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes or until the rice is tender but still moist. Set aside for 5 minutes before serving. Serves 4.
Roz Mefacuar bil-Khodra
In Tunisia and Libya, rice is often steamed, like couscous, in the top of a couscousiere, while the vegetables are stewed underneath. If you do not have a couscousiere, you can steam the rice in a colander lined with muslin, set inside a saucepan. The vegetables can be varied according to the season.
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 sweet red peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into strips
1 small red chili pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
1 teaspoon harissa,
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 cup cooked and drained chickpeas
1 cup hot water
2 medium zucchini, trimmed, and cut into ½-inch-thick rounds
1½ cups long-grain rice
2 tablespoons butter or ghee
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in the bottom of a couscousiere or large saucepan and cook the onion, garlic, and peppers for 2 minutes. Add the harissa, spices, tomatoes, and chickpeas and stir well. Pour in the hot water and bring to a boil. Wash the rice and place in the top of a couscousiere, or in a colander lined with muslin, set inside a saucepan. Cover with a tight-fitting lid. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes.
Add the zucchini to the stew and stir well. Cut the butter into small pieces and add to the rice. Season with salt and black pepper and fluff up with a fork. Continue to cook for a further 15 or 20 minutes or until the vegetables and rice are tender. Arrange the rice in the center of a heated serving dish and surround with the vegetable stew. Serves 4.
Safranli Pilav
This pilaf is sometimes called sari pilav (yellow pilaf) because of its beautiful color. Sometimes the raisins and pine nuts are omitted.
2 tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1½ cups long-grain rice
2½ cups hot water
½ teaspoon saffron threads, soaked in 2 tablespoons water
3 tablespoons raisins
3 tablespoons pine nuts
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon allspice
a pinch of cloves
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan and cook the onion over a moderate heat until it is softened. Stir in the rice and cook over a gentle heat until it starts to whiten. Pour in the water and add the saffron, raisins, pine nuts, spices, salt, and black pepper.
Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes or until the liquid is evaporated and small craters have appeared on the surface of the rice. Remove from the heat and take of the lid of the saucepan. Place a napkin over the top and replace the lid. Let stand at the back of the stove for 5 minutes before serving. Serves 4.
Riso con la Zucca
This delicious, creamy risotto comes from the Veneto, where it is usually made with zucca gialla (yellow pumpkin). Sometimes the risotto is cooked in milk, or half milk and half water, instead of the broth.
4 cups vegetable broth or water, approximately
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 pound pumpkin flesh, diced
1½ cups arborio rice
salt
freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons single cream
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Bring the broth to a boil in a pan and keep just below the simmering point. Heat the olive oil and butter in a heavy saucepan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is softened. Add the pumpkin and stir well.
Cover and cook over gentle heat for 15 to 20 minutes or until the pumpkin is tender and reduced to a purée. Stir in the rice and season with salt and black pepper. Add a ladleful of stock and cook over gentle heat until most of the liquid is absorbed, stirring from time to time to prevent the risotto sticking to the pan.
Add another ladleful of stock and repeat until the rice is tender but still firm. Remove from the heat and stir in the cream, parsley, and ¼ cup grated cheese. Serve at once with additional grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Risotto Verde
This recipe comes from the Marche, where it is usually made with a mixture of wild herbs and greens such as rocket, chicory, dandelion, Swiss chard, spinach, beet greens, parsley, basil, marjoram, or oregano, and wild mushrooms.
About 4 cups vegetable stock or water
½ pound mixed herbs and greens
½ pound fresh porcini or other wild mushrooms
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
1½ cups arborio rice
½ cup dry white wine
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Bring the stock to a boil in a saucepan and keep it just below the simmering point. Wash the herbs and greens carefully and cook in a covered saucepan over a moderate heat for 5 to 7 minutes or until they are tender. Drain and chop coarsely.
Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth and remove any sand or grit. Slice fairly thinly. Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepan and cook the onion over a moderate heat for 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for a further 10 minutes or until they are tender. Stir in the rice and cook for a further 2 minutes. Pour in the wine. Raise the heat and cook until it is evaporated. Add the chopped greens and a ladleful of stock. Season with salt and black pepper.
Cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is almost evaporated. Add another ladleful of stock and repeat until the rice is tender but still firm. The finished risotto should be slightly creamy and most of the liquid evaporated. Stir in the butter and half of the Parmesan cheese and serve with the remaining Parmesan cheese on the side. Serves 4.
Rezz bil Sha’riyeh
Rice with vermicelli is made all over the Middle East from Egypt to Turkey. The exact proportion of rice to vermicelli can vary. It is usually served with a vegetable stew and some yoghurt on the side.
1½ cups long-grain rice
3 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil
½ cup vermicelli, broken into ½ inch lengths
2½ cups hot water
a pinch of cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
Rinse the rice under cold water and drain well.
Heat the butter in a heavy saucepan and add the vermicelli. Cook over moderate heat until it is golden brown. Stir in the rice and cook for another 2 minutes or until the grains are well coated in butter. Pour in the stock and add the cinnamon, salt, and black pepper.
Bring to boil. Cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes or until the rice and vermicelli are tender but still firm and the liquid is evaporated. Remove from the heat and take off the lid off the saucepan. Place a napkin over the top and replace the lid. Set at the back of the stove for 5 minutes before serving. Serves 4.
Fritelle di Riso
These tasty croquettes from Modena are usually served with a simple salad of red chicory dressed with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and a glass of Lambrusco wine.
About 4 cups vegetable stock or water
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1¼ cups arborio rice
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon butter
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 egg plus 1 egg white
dry bread crumbs
vegetable oil for frying
Bring the stock to a boil in a large saucepan and keep just below the simmering point. Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepan and cook the onion over a moderate heat until it is softened. Stir in the rice and cook for 1 or 2 minutes. Add a ladleful of stock and cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is almost evaporated. Add another ladleful of stock and repeat until the rice is tender and the liquid is evaporated.
Season with salt and black pepper. Stir in the butter and Parmesan cheese. Transfer to a mixing bowl and set aside to cool. Add the egg and mix well. Shape into croquettes the size of a walnut. Beat the remaining egg white until stiff. Dip the croquettes in the egg white and roll in bread crumbs. Deep-fry in hot oil until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels and serve hot. Serves 4.
Risu a Palermitana
This delicious timballo or pie from Palermo consists of layers of fried eggplant, risotto, tomato sauce, and grated cheese.
2 or 3 large eggplants, just over 2 pounds
salt
about 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 cup arborio rice
about 3 cups boiling vegetable broth or water
1 recipe Tomato and Basil Sauce
1 cup freshly grated Caciacavallo or pecorino cheese
Trim the ends of the eggplants and cut into rounds about a quarter-inch thick. Sprinkle with salt and set in a colander for 1 hour to release the bitter juices. Wash off the salt and pat dry. Fry in hot olive oil until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels.
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy saucepan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is translucent. Stir in the rice and cook for 1 minute, so each grain is well coated in oil. Add a ladleful of stock and cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is almost evaporated. Add another ladleful of stock and repeat until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed.
Arrange a layer of fried eggplant in the bottom of a baking dish. Cover with ⅓ of the rice and spoon over one third of the tomato and basil sauce. Sprinkle one third of the grated cheese over the top. Repeat the layers until all of the ingredients are used up, ending with the grated cheese. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 25-30 minutes or until the top is golden and the sauce is bubbling. Serves 4.
Paella de Verduras
Paella is named after the shallow, round metal or earthenware pan in which it is cooked. Paella originated in the region around Valencia, but today it is made all over Spain. Traditionally, it is cooked outdoors over an open fire, but it can also be made very well on top of the stove, if necessary, over two burners. Paella is always made with short-grain rice similar to arborio, which resembles the rice grown in Valencia.
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 Spanish onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 cup shelled peas, or frozen petit pois
1 cup tiny green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths
2 red peppers, cored, seeded, and diced
3 artichoke hearts, cooked and cut into quarters
2 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 teaspoon paprika
2 cups short-grain or arborio rice
10 saffron threads, lightly toasted and dissolved in 2 cups of hot water
about 4½ cups boiling vegetable stock or water
1 cup dry white wine
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a paella pan or large frying pan (about 15 inches in diameter) and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is softened. Add the garlic, parsley, peas, green beans, peppers, artichoke hearts, and tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes. Add the paprika and stir well. Add the rice and cook for 1 or 2 minutes so each grain is well coated. Combine the saffron liquid, stock, and wine and season with salt and black pepper.
Add about one third to the rice and bring to the boil. Cook over gentle heat until it has been absorbed. Add another third and repeat until the rice and vegetables are tender and the liquid is absorbed, adding a little more stock if necessary. Remove from the heat and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Serves 4 to 6.
Seksu
If saffron is not available, you can use turmeric instead. Couscous is also very good garnished with toasted almonds or pine nuts, chopped dates, or raisins that have been soaked in hot water and drained.
2 tablespoons butter or ghee
3 shallots, finely chopped
2 cups couscous
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon ginger
½ teaspoon powdered saffron
2¼ cups boiling water or vegetable broth
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Melt the butter in a saucepan and cook the shallots over moderate heat until they are softened. Add the couscous, cinnamon, coriander, and ginger and stir well. Add the saffron dissolved in the boiling water and season with salt and black pepper. Remove from the heat.
Cover with a tight-fitting lid and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff up with a fork and serve at once garnished with chopped parsley. Serves 4.
Seksu Kar’a
This dish is spicy and exotic with just a hint of sweetness. Instant couscous makes it very quick and easy to prepare.
PUMPKIN STEW OR SOUP:
3 large carrots
1½ pound piece of pumpkin
3 tablespoons butter
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon turmeric
a pinch of powdered saffron
4½ cups hot water
2 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup raisins
½ cup cooked and drained chickpeas
salt
freshly ground black pepper
COUSCOUS:
2 tablespoons butter
3 shallots, thinly sliced
2 cups couscous
salt
freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon powdered saffron
2¼ cups boiling water or vegetable broth
Cut the carrots in half lengthwise then cut into 3-inch lengths. Peel the pumpkin, remove the seeds, and cut into 3-inch chunks. Melt the butter in a large saucepan and cook the onions over a gentle heat until they are lightly browned and caramelized. Add the spices and water and bring to a boil. Add the carrots and sugar and simmer for 15 minutes.
Add the pumpkin, raisins, and chickpeas and seasoning to taste. Simmer for a further 15 minutes or until the vegetables are just tender. The stew should be fairly thin—almost a soup. About 10 minutes before the end of cooking, start to prepare the couscous.
Follow the directions for saffron couscous on page 183, omitting the spices. When it is ready to serve, fluff up with a fork and pile onto a large serving dish. Shape into a mound. Remove the cooked vegetables and chickpeas with a slotted spoon and arrange over the top. Serve at once with the soupy sauce on the side. Serves 4.
Asfuru
This simple dish comes from the Kabylie, the richest agricultural region in Algeria. It is always made with fruity extra virgin olive oil, rather than smen (a kind of clarified butter). If you like, you can add a teaspoon or two of sugar to the peas and carrots while they are cooking to bring out their sweetness. Asfuru is usually served with a glass of leben (a kind of fermented milk) or buttermilk on the side.
½ pound young tender shelled peas, or frozen petit pois
½ pound young tender carrots, diced
2¼ cups vegetable broth or water
2 cups couscous
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
salt
Steam the vegetables over boiling water for 15 minutes or until they are tender. Bring the vegetable broth to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the couscous and stir well. Remove from the heat.
Cover with a tight-fitting lid and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff up with a fork. Drizzle over the olive oil and season with salt. Transfer to a heated serving dish and shape into a mound. Serve at once. Serves 4.
Keksu bil-Filfil
Tunisian couscous is usually flavored with paprika, garlic, and chili, instead of the exotic mix of spices used in Morocco. The couscous grains are often spiced with bharat, a subtle mixture of spices made from dried rosebuds (Rosa damascus), cinnamon, cloves, and black pepper. Dried rosebuds are available in most Middle Eastern stores and in the herbal tea section of most health stores. If you like your food very spicy, you can garnish the couscous—as they do in Tunisia—with roasted chili peppers.
VEGETABLE STEW OR SOUP:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon harissa,
1 tablespoon tomato paste, diluted in a little hot water
6 red or green sweet peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into quarters
½ cup cooked and drained chickpeas
2 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered
4 cups hot water
salt
GARNISH:
4-6 red chili peppers
COUSCOUS:
2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 teaspoon bharat
2 cups couscous
2¼ cups boiling water or vegetable broth
salt
To make the vegetable stew, heat the olive oil in a saucepan and cook the onion over moderate heat for 2 minutes. Add the paprika and harissa and stir well. Add the diluted tomato paste, peppers, chickpeas, potatoes, and hot water and salt to taste. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes or until the vegetables are just tender. The stew should be fairly thin, like a soup.
To make the garnish, roast the chili peppers under a hot grill until they are blackened all over. Cut in half lengthwise and remove the core and seeds. Set aside.
About ten minutes before the end of cooking, start to prepare the couscous. Melt the butter in another saucepan and cook the shallots over a moderate heat until they are softened. Add the bharat and couscous and stir well. Pour in the boiling water and season with salt. Remove from the heat.
Cover with a tight-fitting lid and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff up with a fork and pile onto a heated serving dish. Shape into a mound. Remove the vegetables and chickpeas from the stew with a slotted spoon and arrange over the couscous. Garnish with roasted chili peppers and serve at once with the remaining soupy sauce on the side. Serves 4.
BHARAT
10 dried rosebuds
1 tablespoon cinnamon
2 or 3 doves
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the ingredients in a mortar and grind with a pestle until they form a fine powder. Store in an airtight jar.