L’appetit est le meilleur des cuisiniers.
Appetite is the best cook.
—French proverb
Every country around the Mediterranean has a vast repertoire of vegetable dishes that make very good main courses. Centuries of poverty as well as the shortage and expense of meat has led to the creation of a vast array of vegetarian dishes.
Many Mediterranean countries are Roman Catholic where the eating of meat is forbidden on Fridays and during Lent. The Greek Orthodox Church imposes an even larger calendar of feast days including Wednesdays, one week in June to celebrate St. Peter and St. Paul, 15 days in August prior to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, and the 40 days before Christmas, which is why so many vegetarian dishes—especially pies—are made in Greece.
Virtually the same vegetables grow from one end of the Mediterranean to the other, so it is not surprising that these dishes have much in common. In most Mediterranean countries, eggplants, zucchini, tomatoes, and peppers are combined with eggs, cheese, or bechamel sauce. There is also the same love of stuffing vegetables with rice or bread crumbs, herbs, nuts, and seeds. Each country shares a fondness for savory pastries (often paper-thin) filled with a mixture of cooked vegetables, eggs, and fresh white cheese (ricotta in Italy, feta in Greece, beyaz peynir in Turkey, and Jibneh in Lebanon and North Africa). Many of the dishes found in the chapter on vegetables also make good main courses if served with some bread and cheese on the side.
Parmigiana di Carciofi
This dish from Campania is must for all artichoke lovers. It consists of fried artichoke bottoms topped with tomato sauce, Fior di Latte cheese, and grated Parmesan, and baked in the oven. Fior di Latte is a fresh cheese made from cow’s milk that is similar to mozzarella. If it is not available, mozzarella may be used instead.
8 or 9 frozen artichoke bottoms, thawed
flour
2 eggs, beaten
vegetable oil for frying
1 recipe Tomato and Basil Sauce (see page 150)
6 ounces mozzarella or Fior di Latte cheese
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Dip the artichoke bottoms in flour and then in beaten egg. Fry in hot oil until golden on both sides. Drain on a paper towel. Arrange in the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish and spoon over the tomato sauce.
Top each artichoke bottom with a slice of mozzarella cheese and sprinkle a little grated cheese over the top. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 20 minutes or until the cheese is melted and the sauce is bubbling. Serves 3 to 4.
Savijača s Kupusum
Cabbage strudel makes a very good snack or light main course. As it is fairly low in protein, I like to sprinkle the top liberally with sesame seeds. Or you can serve it as they do in Croatia, with a bowl of yoghurt on the side.
About 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely sliced
1 small green cabbage (about 1½ pounds), shredded
¼ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted in a 300°F oven
¼ cup raisins
salt
freshly ground black pepper
3 sheets filo pastry, (16 × 12 inches), thawed
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
Heat 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy saucepan and add the onion and cabbage. Stir well. Cover, and cook over gentle heat for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender and starting to turn golden. Add the pine nuts and raisins and season with salt and black pepper. Set aside to cool.
Cover the work surface or table with a clean cloth. Lay a sheet of pastry over the cloth and brush lightly with some of the remaining olive oil. Place another sheet of pastry on top and repeat until all three sheets have been used up. Arrange the cabbage mixture over the third of the pastry closest to you. Carefully pick up the corners of the cloth closest to you and roll over once. Brush the top lightly with olive oil. Lift the cloth again and let the strudel roll over completely.
Brush the top lightly with olive oil. Pick up the cloth and the strudel and very carefully twist onto a well-greased baking sheet. Brush the top lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve hot. Serves 4.
Peynirli Tepsi Börek
Turkish böreği (savory pastries) come in all shapes and sizes. They are usually made with yufka (a paper-thin pastry similar to filo), but some böreği are made with flaky or puff pastry. This börek is very light and puffy and makes a very good main course or snack served with a cup of tea or coffee. If beyaz peynir is unavailable, feta cheese may be used instead.
FILLING:
1½ cups beyaz peynir or feta cheese, crumbled
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
a handful of fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
a handful of fresh dill, finely chopped
2 eggs, lightly beaten
freshly ground black pepper
12 sheets filo pastry, about 12 x 16 inches, or yufka
COATING FOR THE PASTRY:
¾ cup yoghurt
6 tablespoons melted butter
2 eggs, lightly beaten
To make the filling, place the feta cheese in a mixing bowl and mash with a fork. Add the herbs and eggs and blend well. Season with black pepper. To make the coating mixture, combine the yoghurt, melted butter, and eggs in a bowl and mix well.
Place one sheet of the filo pastry over the bottom of a well-oiled baking dish and brush lightly with the coating mixture. Place another sheet of filo pastry on top and repeat until 4 sheets of pastry have been used. Pour half of the cheese filling over the top, making sure the whole surface is covered. Place a sheet of filo pastry over the top and brush lightly with the coating mixture.
Repeat until another 4 sheets of pastry have been used. Pour the remaining cheese filling over the top, making sure the whole surface is covered. Place a sheet of filo pastry on top and brush lightly with the coating mixture. Repeat until all the ingredients have been used up, ending with a generous layer of coating mixture. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve hot or cold. Serves 4 to 6.
Granada d’Auberginies
This light pudding is made with a mixture of fried eggplant, tomatoes, and egg, topped with bread crumbs and baked in the oven. It is usually served with light tomato sauce, but it is also very good on its own.
2 large eggplants, about 1½ pounds
about ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh marjoram
3 eggs, lightly beaten
salt
freshly ground black pepper
about ½ cup dry bread crumbs
Peel the eggplants and dice them into 1½-inch pieces. Heat ⅓ cup olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is softened. Add the eggplants and stir well so they are well coated in oil. Cover and cook over a gentle heat for 10 minutes or until they are tender and starting to turn golden, stirring from time to time so the vegetables cook evenly.
Add the tomato and herbs and cook, uncovered, for another 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. Set aside to cool slightly. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add the eggs. Mix well and season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Grease a shallow baking dish and dust with bread crumbs. Pour in the eggplant mixture and sprinkle the remaining bread crumbs over the top. Dribble over the remaining olive oil. Bake in a preheated 375°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the top is golden. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 4.
Pasticcio di Caponata
Eggplant caponata is usually served in Sicily as an antipasto, but it can also be made into a very tasty pie. Sometimes 1 or 2 chopped hard-boiled eggs are added instead of the pine nuts. It is usually served at room temperature.
SHORT-CRUST PASTRY:
3 cups whole-wheat pastry flour
½ teaspoon salt
6 ounces chilled, unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
3 or 4 tablespoons (or more) chilled white wine or water
FILLING:
2 large eggplants, about 1½ pounds
about ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, finely diced
1 cup canned plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
¼ cup green olives, pitted and sliced
¼ cup capers
¼ cup raisins
¼ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted in a 325°F oven
5 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
salt
freshly ground black pepper
To make the pastry, sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Add the butter and rub in the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs. Sprinkle over the wine. Work very quickly with your hand to form a soft ball, adding a little more wine if necessary. Wrap the dough in wax paper and set in a cool place for 1 to 2 hours before using.
To make the filling, dice the eggplants, unpeeled, into half-inch pieces. Heat ⅓ cup olive oil in a large frying pan and add the eggplants. Stir well so they are coated in oil. Cover and cook over gentle heat for 10 minutes or until they start to turn golden, stirring from time to time so they cook evenly.
Heat the remaining olive oil in another pan and cook the onion and celery over moderate heat until they are softened. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook, uncovered, for 8 to 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. Add the eggplant, olives, capers, raisins, and pine nuts and stir in the vinegar. Season with salt and black pepper. Simmer for 8 to 10 minutes to blend the flavors. Set aside to cool.
Meanwhile place the dough on a lightly floured work surface. Knead it briefly and divide into 2 parts, one slightly larger than the other. Roll the larger part into a circle about 12 inches in diameter. Carefully roll the dough around the rolling pine and unroll it onto a well-oiled flan case. Trim away any excess dough. Prick with a fork and pour in the caponata filling.
For the top crust, roll out the remaining dough into a circle about 11 inches in diameter. Place on top of the pie and trim away any excess dough. Press around the edges with your fingertips the top seal in the filling. Cut a few slits in the top to allow any steam to escape during baking. Bake in a preheated 375°F oven for 45 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve at room temperature. Serves 4.
Melitzanes Fournou me Tyri
This is the Greek version of Italy’s well-known pie—parmigiana di melanzane. It is made with feta instead of mozzarella, which gives it a slightly different texture and taste.
2 pounds eggplants
salt
extra virgin olive oil for frying
1 recipe Tomato and Onion sauce (see page 143)
½ pound feta cheese, crumbled
½ cup freshly grated Kefalotyri or Parmesan cheese
Trim the ends of the eggplants, but do not peel them. Cut lengthwise into slices quarter-inch thick and sprinkle with salt. Set in a colander for 1 hour to release the bitter juices. Wash off the salt and pat dry with paper towels. Fry in hot olive oil until golden on both sides. Arrange one third of the eggplant slices in the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish and cover with one third of the tomato sauce and top with one third of the feta cheese.
Sprinkle over one third of the grated cheese. Repeat the layers, ending with the feta cheese and the remaining grated cheese. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 minutes or until the top is golden and the sauce is bubbling. Serves 4.
Tsaïzika
Tsaiżika is a Sephardic Jewish specialty from Larissa in central Greece, where it is traditionally served for the Sabbath dinner or lunch. Similar pastries are also found in various Jewish communities in Turkey, where they are called kol boreği. Tsaïzika is usually made into small individual coiled pastries, but one large pastry is much quicker and easier to prepare. Commercial filo, or phyllo, pastry is available in most Greek, Turkish, or Middle Eastern stores. It can be bought fresh or frozen. If you are using frozen filo pastry, it should be thawed in the refrigerator for about 2 hours before using.
FILLING:
2 medium eggplants, about 1½ pounds
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¾ cup feta cheese, crumbled
½ cup grated Kefalotyri or Parmesan cheese
2 eggs
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
4 large sheets filo pastry, about 16 × 12 inches
3-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
To make the filling, roast the eggplants under a hot grill until the skins are blackened all over and the flesh is tender. When they are cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh. If a little of the blackened skin is mixed in, it only adds to the flavor. Place the flesh in a bowl and mash with a fork. Add the olive oil and mix well. Mash the feta cheese with a fork and add to the eggplant mixture together with the grated cheese and the eggs. Blend well and season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper.
Place one sheet of filo pastry on a clean tea towel and brush lightly with olive oil. Cover with a second sheet of filo pastry and brush with oil. Place a quarter of the filling along the length of the pastry sheet nearest to you about 1 inch from the edge. Shape the filling into a long roll about 1½ inches thick. Fold over the edges to the right and left to seal the sides, then roll the pastry up like a log or strudel. Twist the log into a tight coil and place in the centre of a well-oiled baking sheet. Repeat with a second roll of pastry in the same way. Place the pastry rolls end to end and continue to roll it up like a snake, enlarging the pastry as you go. Brush the top with the remaining olive oil; and bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.
Melanzane Ripiene alla Napoletana
Any book on Mediterranean cooking would be incomplete without at least one recipe for stuffed eggplants. This one from Naples is one of my favorites. The addition of olives and capers gives the stuffing a delicious flavor that contrasts nicely with the blandness of the mozzarella cheese.
4 small eggplants, about ½ pound each
about 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon torn basil leaves
3 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
½ cup black Gaeta olives, pitted and slice
¼ cup capers
1 cup soft bread crumbs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
½ pound mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Place the eggplant in a saucepan of boiling water. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove and cut in half lengthwise. Scoop out the flesh, taking care not to damage the skins, to leave a shell about ⅛-inch thick. Chop the pulp coarsely. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the garlic and herbs over moderate heat for 2 minutes. Add the chopped eggplants and stir well.
Cover and cook over gentle heat for 10 minutes or until they are tender and starting to turn golden, stirring from time to time so they cook evenly. Add the tomatoes, olives, and capers and continue to cook, uncovered, for 5 more minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the bread crumbs. Season with salt and black pepper and mix well. Fill the eggplant shells with the mixture.
Top with slices of mozzarella cheese and sprinkle over a little grated cheese. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 minutes or until the tops are golden. Serve at once. Serves 4.
Torta d’Erbe, Pinoli e Uvetta
This torta or pie from Liguria is made with a mixture of herbs and greens such as spinach, borage, nettles, Swiss chard, beet greens, watercress, parsley, sorrel, or rocket. You can make up your own combination. Quagliata, or prescinsena as it is sometimes called, is a fresh cheese made in Liguria from cow’s milk. If it is unavailable, ricotta may be used instead. The dough used for torte is very similar to the dough used for filo pastry, but it is not rolled out so thinly. If you like, you can use fresh or thawed filo pastry instead. In general 3 or 4 sheets of filo pastry is sufficient for the base and 3 or 4 sheets for the top.
PASTRY FOR TORTE:
2 cups unbleached pastry flour
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
about ½ cup water or more
FILLING:
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 pound mixed greens and herbs
¾ cup ricotta or quagliata cheese
2 eggs plus I yolk
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons raisins
2 tablespoons pine nuts, lightly toasted in a 300°F oven
1 tablespoon sugar
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
To make the pastry, place the flour and salt in a mixing bowl and make a well in the center. Add the olive oil and enough water to make a smooth, elastic dough. The exact amount of water will depend on the absorbency of the flour. Shape the dough into 2 balls, one slightly larger than the other. Wrap in wax paper and let rest 1-2 hours in a cool place.
To make the filling, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large saucepan and cook the greens and herbs over a moderate heat for 5 minutes or until they are tender. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain, squeeze dry, and chop coarsely. In a bowl, combine the ricotta, eggs, Parmesan cheese, raisins, pine nuts, and sugar. Mix well. Add the chopped greens and herbs and season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper.
Roll the dough out into 2 circles about one-sixteenth of an inch thick. Place the larger circle over the bottom of a well-oiled baking sheet about 12 inches in diameter. Spread the filling over the top. Cover with the second sheet of dough. Press around the edges with your fingertip to seal in the filling. Brush the top lightly with the remaining olive oil and bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.
Prassopita me Elies
There are many versions of prassopita in Greece. This one is made with bechamel sauce and black olives, which gives it a delicious savory flavor. I like to use Amfissa olives which have a slightly sweet taste, but any other black olives may be used instead.
FILLING:
3 pounds leeks, including the dark green tops
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1½ cups bechamel sauce, see page 213
½ cup grated Kefalotyri or Parmesan cheese
2 eggs plus 1 yolk
½ cup Amfissa or any other black olives, pitted and sliced
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
½ pound filo pastry, thawed
about ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
2-3 tablespoons sesame seeds
To make the filling, trim the ends of the leeks and cut in half lengthwise. Wash carefully and remove any grit that collects between the leaves. Cut into 1-inch lengths. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and add the leeks. Cover and cook over moderate heat for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they are tender and starting to turn golden. Meanwhile prepare the béchamel sauce. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. Transfer to a mixing bowl and stir in the grated cheese, eggs, egg yolk, leeks, and olives. Season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper.
Place a sheet of filo pastry over the bottom of a well-oiled baking dish and brush lightly with olive oil. Repeat until two-thirds of the pastry is used up. Spread the filling over the top. Place another sheet of pastry over the filling and brush lightly with oil. Repeat until all the pastry is used up. Brush the top lightly with oil and sprinkle over the sesame seeds. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 6 to 8.
Cotolette di Funghi
This dish comes from the Veneto where it is usually made with porcini or ovoli mushrooms, but it is also very good with large field mushrooms. The cutlets consist of slices of Fontina cheese sandwiched between two mushroom caps that are dipped in batter and deep-fried. They are usually served with fried potatoes and a glass of red wine on the side.
16 large field mushrooms
about ½ pound fontina cheese
2-3 eggs, lightly beaten
salt
freshly ground black pepper
dry bread crumbs
oil for deep frying
Remove the caps from the mushrooms. Wash them carefully and wipe dry. Cut the cheese into slices about the same size as the mushrooms.
Place each slice between two mushroom caps. Dip in beaten egg, then bread crumbs, and deep-fry until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.
Quiche Provençale
This creamy onion tart is delicately flavored with tomatoes and herbs. If you like, you can use half yoghurt and half single cream instead of the crême fraïche.
SHORTCRUST PASTRY:
1¾ cup unbleached pastry flour
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ pound chilled butter, cut into small cubes
1 egg yolk
1-2 tablespoons iced water
FILLING:
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1½ pounds onions, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
a pinch of thyme
2 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
2 eggs
1 cup crème fraiche
salt
freshly ground black pepper
To make the pastry, sift the flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the butter and rub in the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs. Add the egg yolk mixed with 1 tablespoon of iced water and sprinkle over the mixture. Work very quickly with your hand to form a soft ball, adding a little more water if necessary. Wrap the dough in wax paper and set in a cool place for 1 to 2 hours before using.
Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface and knead it briefly. Roll into a circle about 12 inches in diameter and eight of an inch thick. Carefully roll the dough around the rolling pin and unroll it onto a well-buttered 8- to 10-inch pie dish. Trim away any excess dough and flute the edges with a fork. Prick the bottom with a fork in a few places.
Cover the dough with a sheet of foil and fill with dried beans—this prevents the pastry from puffing up while baking. To partially bake the flan case, preheat the oven to 400°F and bake the pastry for 8 to 10 minutes. The pastry should have slightly shrunk away from the case. Take out of the oven and remove the tin foil and dried beans.
To make the filling, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onions, garlic, and herbs over a gentle heat for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the onions are very soft and starting to turn golden. Add the tomatoes and season with salt and black pepper. Cook for 5 more minutes. Set aside to cool. Beat the eggs with the crème fraiche and add to the onion mixture. Pour into the partially baked flan case and bake in a preheated 375°F oven for 30 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.
Fagottini della Nonna
Fagottini (little bundles) are sweet or savory stuffed pancakes. In this recipe, they are filled with spinach and ricotta, topped with tomato sauce and grated cheese, and gratinéed in the oven.
PANCAKE BATTER:
1½ cups unbleached white flour
a pinch of salt
3 eggs
about 2 cups milk (or half milk, half water)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
FILLING:
¼ pound spinach
1 cup ricotta
1 egg
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 recipe Tomato and Basil Sauce, see page 150
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
To make the pancakes, place the flour and salt in a bowl. Make a well in the center and drop in the eggs. Gradually add the milk, beating constantly, to form a batter the consistency of single cream. Allow to stand for 30 minutes before using.
Heat a little olive oil in a 6-inch heavy frying pan. When it is hot, pour in 2½ to 3 tablespoons batter. Quickly tilt the pan in all directions so the batter evenly covers the pan. Cook for about 1 minute on each side. Set aside and repeat until all the pancake batter is used up.
To make the filling, wash the spinach carefully and cook in a covered saucepan for 5 minutes or until tender. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain and chop coarsely. Set aside to cool.
Combine the ricotta, egg, and grated cheese in a bowl. Add the chopped spinach. Blend well. Season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Spoon a little filling into the centre of each pancake and roll them up. Arrange the pancakes in a single layer in a well-greased shallow baking dish. Spoon over the Tomato and Basil Sauce and sprinkle the grated cheese over the top. Baked in a preheated 400°F oven for 15 minutes or until the pancakes are heated through and the cheese is melted. Serve hot. Serves 4 to 5.
Mehshi Flehfleh bil-Zeit
In Lebanon, vegetables cooked bil-zeit (in olive oil) are always made without meat. The stuffing usually contains split chickpeas, which have been soaked overnight and skinned. I prefer to use cooked and drained chickpeas, which have a much softer consistency. Sumac is a brownish purple spice with a tangy, lemony flavor that is widely used in cooking throughout the Middle East.
8 red, green, or yellow peppers
¾ cup long-grain rice
½ cup cooked and drained chickpeas
½ pound ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
3 green onions, thinly sliced
½ cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
½ cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
2 teaspoons sumac
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon allspice
juice of ½ lemon
⅔ cup extra virgin olive oil
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Slice the tops off the peppers and reserve. Remove the pith and seeds. To make the stuffing, wash the rice thoroughly and drain well. Place in a mixing bowl with the chickpeas, tomatoes, onions, herbs, and spices. Pour in the lemon juice and ½ cup olive oil and mix well. Season with salt and black pepper. Stuff the peppers three-quarters full with the mixture, leaving enough room for the rice to swell during cooking. Place the reserved caps on top.
Arrange side by side in a saucepan large enough to hold the peppers in one layer. Pack them tightly so they remain upright during cooking. Pour in enough hot water to come within 1½ inches of the tops of the peppers. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 40 to 50 minutes or until the rice is tender and the peppers are soft. Set aside to cool slightly. Arrange on a serving dish and serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 4.
Tortino di Patate
A tortino is a kind of pie that is usually made without pastry. They are always made with chopped or puréed vegetables and make a very good light lunch or supper dish. This one from Naples is made with mashed potatoes, eggs, mozzarella, and Parmesan cheese.
2 pounds potatoes
6 tablespoons butter
2 large eggs
about ¼ cup milk
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
6 ounces mozzarella cheese, sliced
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Cook the potatoes in lightly salted boiling water for 20 minutes or until they are tender. Drain and peel when they are cool enough to handle. Force through a sieve into a mixing bowl and add 4 tablespoons butter, the eggs, and milk. Mix well and season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. The mixture should be fairly soft.
Grease a baking dish with the remaining butter and dust with half of the Parmesan cheese. Pour in half of the potato mixture and cover with slices of mozzarella. Pour in the remaining potato mixture and sprinkle the remaining Parmesan cheese. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 minutes or until the top is nicely browned. Serve hot. Serves 4.
Latkes
Potato latkes or pancakes are one of the best known and delicious of Jewish specialties. Traditionally they were served for Channukah (the Festival of Lights) but today they are made in Israel throughout the year. They can be served as an appetizer, snack, or main course. Some cooks add a tablespoon or two of flour with the eggs.
1½ pounds potatoes
1 medium onion, finely grated
2 eggs, lightly beaten
salt
freshly ground black pepper
olive oil for frying
Peel the potatoes and grate them finely. Place them in a mixing bowl with the onions. Add the eggs and mix well. Season with salt and black pepper. Heat a thin layer of olive oil in the bottom of a heavy frying pan. Drop two or three heaping tablespoonfuls of the mixture at a time into the hot oil and flatten with a fork.
Cook over gentle heat until they are golden on both sides. Serve hot. Serves 4.
Moussakas me Melitzanes me Patates
Moussakas is one of Greece’s most famous dishes. It usually includes meat, but there are also many vegetarian versions. This one, made with eggplant and potatoes, is especially good. For a variation, you can substitute zucchini for the eggplants.
2 large eggplants, about 1½ pounds
salt
extra virgin olive oil for frying
1 pound waxy potatoes
1 large onion, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh oregano
1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
¾ cup grated Kefalotyri or Pecorino cheese
6 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
2 ½ cups hot milk
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 egg yolks
Trim the ends of the eggplants and cut into quarter-inch thick slices. Sprinkle with salt and set in a colander for 1 hour to release the bitter juices. Wash off the salt and pat dry with a paper towel. Shallow-fry in hot oil until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels. Meanwhile cook the potatoes in plenty of lightly salted water for 20 minutes or until they are tender. When they are cool enough to handle, peel and slice fairly thinly.
Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is softened. Add the oregano and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook for about 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. Set aside. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a heavy saucepan and stir in the flour. Cook for 1 minute without browning.
Pour in a little hot milk and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon over moderate heat, until the mixture is free from lumps. Gradually add a little more milk until all the milk is incorporated and the sauce is very smooth and creamy. Season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Simmer for 2 or 3 more minutes. Set aside to cool slightly. Add the egg yolks and blend well.
Arrange about one-third of the potatoes over the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish. Cover with a third of the fried eggplant. Spoon over about one-third of the tomato and onion sauce and sprinkle with grated cheese. Repeat the layers ending with a layer of tomato and onion sauce and grated cheese. Pour the bechamel sauce over the top and sprinkle over the remaining grated cheese. Dot with the remaining butter. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until the top is golden and the sauce is bubbling. Serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.
BECHAMEL SAUCE:
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons milk
2½ cups hot milk
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a heavy saucepan and stir in the flour. Cook for 1 minute without browning. Pour in a little hot milk and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon over a moderate heat, until the mixture is free of lumps. Gradually add a little more milk until all the milk in incorporated and the sauce is very smooth and creamy. Season with nutmeg, salt and black pepper. Simmer for 2 to 3 more minutes.
Kibbeh Batata
Vegetarian kibbeh are usually made with potatoes, pumpkin, or lentils and a mixture of burghul, nuts, herbs, and spices. They can prepared in numerous ways—boiled, baked, grilled, fried, or eaten raw. In this recipe, they are made into torpedo-shaped balls, stuffed with an onion and pine nut filling, flavored with pomegranate syrup, and deep-fried. Pomegranate syrup is made from the juice of sour pomegranates. It is highly prized in the Middle East for its sweet and sour flavor. If it is unavailable, you can use 1 or 2 teaspoons of lemon juice instead.
1 pound floury potatoes
½ cup fine burghul (cracked wheat)
¼ cup flour
1 tablespoon fresh basil, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon allspice
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
oil for deep frying
1 to 2 lemons, cut into wedges, for serving
FILLING:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
3 tablespoons pine nuts
1 teaspoon pomegranate syrup
pinch of cinnamon
pinch of allspice
salt
freshly ground black pepper
To make the kibbeh, soak the cracked wheat in a bowl of cold water for 15 minutes. Rinse thoroughly under cold water and drain well.
Boil the potatoes in plenty of lightly salted water for 20 minutes or until they are tender. Drain and remove the skins when they are cool enough to handle. Place in a mixing bowl and mash with a potato ricer. Add the cracked wheat, flour, basil, and spices and mix well. Season with salt and black pepper. Set aside.
To make the filling, heat the olive oil in a small frying pan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is lightly browned. Add the pine nuts and cook until they start to turn golden. Stir in the pomegranate syrup and spices and season with salt and black pepper. Cook for 1 or 2 more minutes.
Moisten your hands with cold water and shape the potato mixture into balls the size of an egg. With your index finger, punch a hole into the top end of each ball. Place a teaspoonful of the filling into the hole, then seal shut with your fingers. Carefully shape the balls into a torpedo shape and deep fry in hot oil until golden. Serve hot with lemon wedges on the side. Serves 4.
Qofte Patatesh me Spinaq
These little rissoles are light and delicious. They are usually made with djathë (a fresh white cheese similar to Turkish beyaz peynir or Greek feta).
¼ pound spinach
1 pound floury potatoes
1 egg
1 cup grated feta cheese
salt
freshly ground black pepper
flour
extra virgin olive oil
Wash the spinach carefully and cook in a covered pan for 5 minutes or until it is tender. Squeeze dry and chop finely.
Cook the potatoes in lightly salted boiling water for 20 minutes or until they are tender. Drain and peel when they are cool enough to handle. Force through a sieve into a mixing bowl.
Add the eggs, cheese, and spinach and blend well. Season with salt and black pepper. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Shape into small rissoles about 1½ inches in diameter. Flatten them slightly and dredge in flour. Heat a little olive oil in the bottom of a heavy frying pan and fry the rissoles, in batches, until they are golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.
Lou Tian de Cougourdo
All kinds of vegetables are made into tians in Provence, especially eggplants, spinach, artichokes, zucchini, and pumpkin. A tian is named after the shallow earthenware dish in which it is cooked. Like its relative, the gratin, the tian is usually topped with bread crumbs or grated cheese and baked in the oven until the top is nicely browned.
1 pumpkin, about 2 pounds
½ pound spinach
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
¼ cup arborio or short-grain rice
3 eggs, lightly beaten
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Peel the pumpkin, cut in half, and remove the seeds. Cut into cubes and steam for about 20 minutes, or until tender. Drain and purée in a food processor. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Wash the spinach carefully and cook in a covered saucepan for 5 minutes or until it is tender. Drain and chop finely. Stir into the pumpkin purée.
Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the onions over a moderate heat until they are translucent. Add the garlic and parsley and cook for another 2 or 3 minutes. Add the pumpkin mixture and blend well.
Meanwhile, cook the rice in plenty of lightly salted boiling water for 10 to 15 minutes or until it is almost tender. Rinse under cold water to remove the starch. Add to the mixture together with the eggs and ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Blend well and season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Pour into a well-oiled shallow baking dish and sprinkle the remaining grated cheese over the top. Dribble over the remaining olive oil. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.
Tortino di Zucca
The Italian zucca refers to various large squash and gourds as well as pumpkin. They have thick, smooth, or knobby skins and flesh that varies from bright yellow to orangey-red. In Emilia-Romagna, where this recipe comes from, the zucca has a deep orange flesh with a slightly sweet flavor.
1 pumpkin, about 2 pounds
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ pound mushrooms, thinly sliced
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons single cream
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
about ¾ cup dry bread crumbs
Peel the pumpkin, cut in half, and remove the seeds. Cut into cubes and steam for 20 minutes or until tender. Force through a sieve or purée in a food processor. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add half of the butter. Heat half of the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the mushrooms over a moderate heat until they are tender. Add to the pumpkin purée together with the eggs, cream, and the Parmesan cheese. Blend well and season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper.
Grease a shallow baking dish with the remaining butter and dust it with bread crumbs. Pour in the pumpkin mixture and sprinkle the remaining bread crumbs over the top. Dribble over the remaining olive oil. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 minutes or until the top is nicely browned. Serve hot. Serves 4.
Spanakopita me Sousami
Variations of spanakopita are made all over Greece. During Lent, the eggs and cheese are usually omitted and the pie is simply filled with spinach, spring onions, and dill. Sometimes a little béchamel sauce is added or a mixture of semolina and cream. On the island of Crete, it is often made with mizithra (a kind of cottage cheese made from the whey of goat’s milk). In the villages, wild mountain greens such as dandelion, sorrel, or vlita (wild amaranth) is often substituted for the spinach, in which case the pie is called hortopita. This classic version of spanakopita is topped with sesame seeds, which not only increases the nutritional value, but also enhances the flavor.
2 pounds spinach
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
6 green onions, thinly sliced
a handful of fresh dill, finely chopped
1 cup feta cheese, crumbled
3 eggs
a grating of nutmeg
freshly ground black pepper
½ pound fresh or thawed filo pastry
about 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons sesame seeds
Wash the spinach carefully and cook in a covered saucepan for 5 minutes or until tender. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain and chop coarsely.
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the green onions over a moderate heat until they are softened. Add the spinach and cook gently for 2 or 3 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Mix the feta cheese and eggs together in a bowl. Add the spinach mixture and season with nutmeg and black pepper. There is no need to add any salt as the feta cheese is salty enough.
Brush a large baking dish with oil. Place a sheet of filo pastry over the top and brush lightly with oil. Repeat with two-thirds of the filo pastry. Spread the filling over the top and cover with a sheet of filo pastry. Brush lightly with oil. Repeat until all the filo pastry is used up. Sprinkle the sesame seeds over the top. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 6 to 8.
Polpettone di Bietole
In other parts of Italy, a polpettone is a meat loaf, but in Liguria it is a kind of gratin or pie without pastry. It usually made with puréed vegetables, eggs, Parmesan cheese, and quagliata or prescinsena, a fresh cheese made from clabbered milk. If it is unavailable, ricotta may be used instead.
1 pound Swiss chard or spinach
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh marjoram
1 pound potatoes
3 large eggs
¼ cup ricotta or quagliata cheese
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 or 3 tablespoons butter
about ½ cup dry bread crumbs
Wash the Swiss chard and remove the stalks. Cook in a covered saucepan over a moderate heat for 5 minutes or until it is tender. Drain and chop finely. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is translucent. Add the herbs and cook for another 3 or 4 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring the potatoes to boil in lightly salted water for 20 minutes or until they are tender. When they are cool enough to handle, force through a sieve into a mixing bowl. Add the Swiss chard, onion mixture, eggs, ricotta, and Parmesan cheese and mix well. Season with salt and black pepper.
Grease the bottom and sides of a shallow baking dish with butter and dust with bread crumbs. Pour in the Swiss chard mixture and top with the remaining bread crumbs. Dot with the remaining butter. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until it is nicely puffed and the top is golden. Serves 4 to 6.
Palacinke Nadjevene Povrćem
The vegetables used for the filling vary according to the season. Tiny peas or green beans in spring, eggplant or zucchini in summer, or a little diced carrot, potato, or celeriac in winter.
PANCAKE BATTER:
1¾ cups flour
pinch of salt
3 eggs
about 1¾ cups milk (or half milk, half water)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
FILLING:
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
½ pound mushrooms, thinly sliced
2 cups fresh shelled peas or frozen petit pois
TOPPING:
2 cups béchamel sauce (see page 213)
2 tablespoons sour cream
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons butter
To make the pancakes, follow the directions for pancakes on page 207. To make the filling, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the garlic over moderate heat for 1 minute. Add the parsley and cook for 2 or 3 more minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until they are tender and any liquid is evaporated.
Meanwhile bring the peas to a boil in lightly salted water and cook until they are tender. Drain and add to the mushroom mixture. Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes to blend the flavors. Spoon a little filling into the center of each pancake and roll them up. Arrange the pancakes side by side in one layer in the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish.
Prepare the béchamel sauce as directed on page 213, and stir in the sour cream. Pour the sauce over the pancakes and sprinkle over the grated cheese. Dot with butter. Bake in a preheated 400°F oven for 15 minutes or until the pancakes are heated through and the cheese is melted. Serves 4 to 5.
Torta Di Verdura
Liguria is famous for its wide variety of vegetable tortes or pies. This one, which is made with spinach, potatoes, leek, and artichokes, is one of my favorites. The dough for torte is similar to that for filo pastry but it is not rolled out as thinly. If you like, you can use fresh or thawed filo pastry instead, which makes it very quick and easy to prepare.
PASTRY FOR TORTE:
2 cups unbleached white flour
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
about ½ cup water or more
FILLING:
½ pound spinach
½ pound floury potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 eggs
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced
4 frozen artichoke hearts, thawed
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
To make the pastry, follow the directions for pastry for torte on page 201. To make the filling, wash the spinach and cook in a covered saucepan over moderate heat for 5 minutes or until tender. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain, squeeze dry, and chop coarsely.
Bring the potatoes to a boil in lightly salted water and cook for 20 minutes or until they are tender. Drain and force through a sieve into a mixing bowl. Add the eggs and Parmesan cheese and mix well. Add the chopped spinach and season with salt and black pepper.
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the leek over moderate heat until it is softened. Add the artichokes and continue to cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until they start to turn golden.
Set aside to cool slightly, then add to the spinach mixture. Roll the dough out into two circles about one-sixteenth of an inch thick. Place the larger circle over the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish about 12 inches in diameter. Spread the filling over the top and cover with the second sheet of dough. Press around the edges with your fingertips to seal in the filling. Brush the top lightly with the remaining olive oil.
Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 40 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.
Callabacines Rellenos con Acelgas
There are dozens of recipes for stuffed zucchini in Spain. This one from Andalusia makes a very good light main course or you can serve it, as they do in Spain, as a separate course on its own. Manchego is a hard cheese made from ewe’s milk that is widely used in Spanish cooking. If it is unavailable, Parmesan may be used instead
6 medium zucchini
½ pound Swiss chard
1 egg
½ cup grated Manchego or Parmesan cheese
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 recipe béchamel sauce (see page 213)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Trim the ends of the zucchini and cut them in half lengthwise. With an apple corer, scoop out the flesh to leave a shell about one eighth of an inch thick. (Reserve the flesh for a soup or stew). Steam the shells for 8 to 10 minutes or until they are just tender. Set aside.
Wash the Swiss chard and cut away the stalks. Cook in a covered saucepan for 5 minutes or until tender. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain, squeeze dry, and chop coarsely. Set aside to cool slightly. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add the egg and half of the cheese. Season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Stuff the zucchini halves with the mixture.
Arrange in a single layer over the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish. Pour over the béchamel sauce and sprinkle the remaining grated cheese over the top. Dribble over the olive oil. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 minutes or until the top is golden and the sauce is bubbling. Serves 3 to 4.
Kolokithopita
All kinds of vegetable pies are made in Greece—with spinach, wild greens, onions, leeks, potatoes, eggplant, pumpkin, and zucchini. They make delicious snacks as well as main courses and may be served hot or cold.
FILLING:
2 pounds zucchini
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
a handful of dill, finely chopped
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup feta cheese, crumbled
⅓ cup freshly grated Kefalotyri or Parmesan cheese
freshly ground black pepper
½ pound fresh or thawed filo pastry
about 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Trim the ends of the zucchini and grate them coarsely.
Heat 4 tablespoons olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it starts to turn golden. Add the zucchini and continue to cook until they are tender and any liquid is evaporated. Add the parsley and dill and simmer for 2 or 3 more minutes.
Place the feta cheese in a mixing bowl and mash well with a fork. Add the egg and grated cheese and blend well. Stir in the cooked vegetables and season with black pepper. Mix well.
Place a sheet of filo pastry over the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish and brush lightly with olive oil. Repeat until two-thirds of the pastry is used up. Spread the filling over the top. Place another sheet of pastry over the filling and brush lightly with oil. Repeat until all the pastry is used up. Brush the top lightly with oil. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until the top is golden. Serve hot. Serves 6 to 8.
Pasticcio di Zucchine
A pasticcio is a layered pie, made with or without pastry, which usually contains béchamel sauce and eggs. This pasticcio from Trieste consists of layers of fried zucchini, a mixture of béchamel and tomato sauce, mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. It is also very good made with eggplant instead of zucchini.
2 pounds zucchini
flour
olive oil for frying
2 cups Béchamel Sauce (see page 213)
1 cup Tomato and Basil Sauce (see page 150)
½ pound mozzarella cheese
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Trim the ends of the zucchini and cut them into slices lengthwise about one eighth of an inch thick. Dust them in flour and fry in hot oil until golden on both sides. Arrange a layer of fried zucchini over the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish.
Combine the béchamel and tomato and basil sauce and mix well. Spoon a little sauce over the zucchini and top with slices of mozzarella. Sprinkle a little grated cheese over the top. Repeat the layers until all the ingredients are used up, finishing with mozzarella and grated cheese. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 30 minutes or until the top is golden and the sauce is bubbling. Serve hot. Serves 4.
Kabak Múcveri
These delicious fritters make a very good light lunch or supper dish served with a salad on the side. If beyaz peynir is unavailable, feta cheese may be used instead.
1 pound zucchini
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 green onions, thinly sliced
3 eggs
6 tablespoons flour
¾ cup feta cheese or beyaz peynir
2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh dill, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
oil for frying
Trim the ends of the zucchini and grate them coarsely. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the zucchini and green onions over moderate heat until they start to turn golden. Set aside to cool slightly.
Beat the eggs lightly in a mixing bowl and gradually add the flour to make a smooth batter. Add the cheese and herbs and season with salt and black pepper.
Heat a thin layer of oil in the bottom of a heavy frying pan. Drop heaping tablespoons of the mixture into the hot oil and fry until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels and serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.