On ne fait pas d’omelette, sans casser des oeufs.
You cannot make an omelette without breaking eggs.
—French proverb.
Eggs have been held in high esteem around the Mediterranean since the days of the pharaohs. The Egyptians and the Phoenicians loved ostrich eggs. The Romans preferred to eat the eggs of partridges, pheasants, and chickens, but peacock eggs were considered the greatest delicacy. The Romans cooked eggs in various ways: boiled, pickled, fried, and cooked over hot coals. They also liked ova mellita—a dish of eggs baked with honey that was the forerunner of the omelette. In the Middle Ages, eggs were widely eaten in France, Spain, and Italy, where they were often dubbed “the meat of the poor.”
Today most countries around the Mediterranean have a vast repertoire of egg dishes, especially scrambled eggs and thick substantial omelettes filled with vegetables. These include the Spanish tortilla, the Italian frittata, the Arab eggah, and the North African chakchouka. These omelets are very good hot or served cold for a buffet or picnic.
Brouillade aux Cepes
This classic dish is very popular all over southern France. The secret of making good scrambled eggs is not to overcook them. Some French cooks are so fanatic about obtaining the desired soft, creamy consistency that they cook them in a bain-marie, but you can have very good success if you simply stir the eggs constantly with a wooden spoon over very low heat.
1/2 pound cèpes, or other good quality mushrooms
2 tablespoons butter
6 eggs
2 tablespoons crème fraiche or heavy cream
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Wash the cèpes carefully and wipe dry. Chop them fairly finely. Heat the butter in a heavy frying pan and add the cèpes. Cook over a gentle heat until they are tender. Beat the eggs with the crême fraîche in a bowl. Season with salt and black pepper.
Pour over the cepes and cook over gentle heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the eggs have a creamy consistency. Serve at once. Serves 3 to 4.
Imbrogliata di Carciofi
Scrambled eggs with artichokes are also very popular in southern France and Spain. In this recipe from Liguria, the dish is delicately flavored with garlic, parsley, and Parmesan cheese. Frozen artichoke bottoms make it very quick and easy to prepare.
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
5 frozen artichoke bottoms, thawed and thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
4 eggs
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the artichokes bottoms over moderate heat until they start to turn golden. Add the garlic and parsley and cook for a further 2 or 3 minutes.
Meanwhile beat the eggs in a bowl and add the Parmesan cheese. Mix well and season with salt and black pepper. Pour the egg mixture over the artichokes. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, over gentle heat until the eggs have reached a creamy consistency. Serve at once. Serves 2 to 3.
Strapasada
Variations of strapasada are made all over the Ionian Islands. This recipe comes from Corfu where it is usually flavored with basil or oregano and a little grated cheese. On the island of Zakynthos, they like to add garlic. Sometimes a little finely chopped fresh chili pepper is added, in which case the cheese is usually omitted.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 eggs
2 tablespoons torn basil leaves
¼ cup grated Kefalotyri or Parmesan cheese
½ pound ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and add the tomatoes. Cook over a moderate heat for 8 to 10 minutes or until the sauce is thickened. Beat the eggs in a bowl and add the basil and cheese. Mix well and season with salt and black pepper.
Pour the egg mixture over the tomatoes. Cook over gentle heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the eggs have a creamy consistency. Serve at once. Serves 2.
Revuelto de Espinaka
Scrambled eggs with spinach are especially smooth and creamy. In Spain, they are usually served on top of slices of bread fried in olive oil.
2 pounds spinach
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons heavy cream
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Wash the spinach carefully and cook in a covered saucepan over moderate heat for 5 to 7 minutes or until it is tender. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain, squeeze dry, and chop finely. Set aside to cool.
Beat the eggs lightly in a bowl and add the cream. Season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Stir in the chopped spinach. Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and pour in the egg mixture. Cook over a gentle heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the eggs have reached a creamy consistency. Serve at once. Serves 4.
Menemen
Menemen is prepared in most bus and train stations throughout Turkey. It is usually made with long green tapering peppers called sivri biber that can vary from mild to hot, but a combination of bell peppers and chili peppers is equally good.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 green bell pepper or 2 sivri biber, cored, seeded, and finely sliced
1 green chili pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
3 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
4 eggs
¼ cup feta cheese or beyaz peynir, crumbled
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the peppers over moderate heat until they are tender and about to turn golden. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook until the liquid is evaporated.
Beat the eggs lightly and add the cheese. Season with salt and black pepper. Pour over the pepper and tomato mixture and cook over a gentle heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the cheese is melted and the eggs have a creamy consistency. Serve at once. Serves 2.
Ispanakli Çilbir
This dish makes a very good light lunch or supper dish. If you like, you can serve it with fried rather than poached eggs.
½ pound spinach
1 tablespoon butter or ghee
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
4 poached eggs
4 tablespoons thick creamy yoghurt
3 garlic cloves, crushed
½ teaspoon paprika
a pinch of cayenne
salt
Wash the spinach and cook in a covered saucepan over moderate heat for 5 to 7 minutes or until tender. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain well anthhop finely.
Heat the butter and olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is softened. Stir in the spinach and cook for 2 or 3 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish and arrange the poached eggs over the top. Mix the yoghurt in a bowl with the garlic, paprika, cayenne, and salt. Pour over the eggs and serve at once. Serves 4.
Omelette NiÇarde
This omelette from Nice is usually made with baby artichokes that are so tender that they can be eaten raw. However, frozen artichoke bottoms (that are readily available in most Middle Eastern stores) make a quick and easy alternative.
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 frozen artichoke bottoms, thawed and sliced fairly thickly
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
4 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
a pinch of thyme
4 eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat half of the olive oil in a frying pan and cook the artichoke bottoms over a moderate heat until they are tender and starting to turn golden. Add the garlic and parsley and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the tomatoes and thyme and continue to cook for a further 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. Set aside to cool.
Beat the eggs in a bowl and add the artichoke mixture. Season with salt and black pepper. Heat the remaining olive oil in a heavy frying pan and pour in the egg mixture. Cook over gentle heat until the bottom is lightly browned, shaking the pan from time to time to prevent sticking. Place under a hot grill for 20 seconds to set the top and proceed as for frittata con le melanzane on page 238. Serve hot, cut in wedges like a pie. Serves 2 or 3.
Frittata con le Melanzane
This frittata is usually with caciocavallo cheese (a hard cheese with a sharp flavor that is widely used in Sicilian cooking). The name derives from the ancient custom of hanging the cheese in pairs a cavallo (on horseback) to ripen.
3 small eggplants, about 1½ pounds
salt
extra virgin olive oil for frying
4 eggs
¼ cup grated caciocavallo or pecorino cheese
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 tablespoons torn basil leaves
freshly ground black pepper
Trim the ends of the eggplants but do not peel. Dice into half-inch pieces. Sprinkle with salt and set in a colander for 1 hour to release the bitter juices. Wash off the salt, drain, and pat dry with a paper towel. Fry in hot olive oil until golden on both sides. Beat the eggs in a bowl and add the fried eggplant, grated cheese, and herbs. Mix well and season with salt and black pepper.
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy frying pan. When it is very hot, pour in the egg mixture. Cook over gentle heat until the bottom is lightly browned, shaking the pan from time to time to prevent sticking. Place the frying pan under a preheated grill for 20 seconds to set the top, then slide the frittata onto a saucepan lid or plate. Place the frying pan over the uncooked side of the frittata and hold it snugly against the saucepan lid.
Quickly flip the saucepan lid over so the uncooked side of the frittata is on the bottom of the frying pan. Continue cooking the frittata on the stove until the bottom is golden. Slide it onto a serving platter and serve hot or at room temperature, cut in wedges like a pie. Serves 3 to 4.
Bayd bil Zitoun
This omelette is a good example of the mix of French and North African cultures. It is cooked in the traditional way of a French rolled omelette, but with the addition of two of North Africa’s favorite ingredients—olives and cumin.
4 eggs
½ cup black olives, pitted and sliced
½ cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground cumin
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon butter
Beat the eggs in a bowl and add the olives, parsley, and cumin. Mix well and season with salt and black pepper.
Melt the butter in a heavy frying pan. When it starts to foam, pour in the eggs. Let the eggs cook for about 10 seconds to set the bottom, then tilt the pan away from you and gently push the eggs towards the center. Now tilt the pan towards you so the uncooked eggs cover the space you have made. Repeat a couple of times until the eggs are lightly set. Remove from the heat. Fold the omelette in half and slide onto a serving plate. Serve at once. Serves 2.
Omleta de Kalavasa
This recipe is one of the many dairy dishes that were traditionally made in the Jewish communities of Greece for lunch, an evening meal, or as a snack.
½ pound zucchini
2 medium onions, peeled
3 eggs
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
extra virgin olive oil
Trim the ends of the zucchini and grate them coarsely. Place in a mixing bowl. Grate the onions coarsely and add to the zucchinis together with the eggs and parsley. Mix well and season with salt and black pepper.
Heat a thin layer of olive oil in a heavy frying pan. When it is hot, drop heaping tablespoons of the mixture into the pan and spread out evenly with a fork to form little pancakes.
Cook a few at a time until they are golden on both sides. Remove from the pan and drain on a paper towel. Repeat until all of the mixture is used up. Serve hot. Serves 2 to 3.
Omleta Horiatiki
The ingredients of this omelette can vary according to the season. This one is made with purple onions, red peppers, black olives, and feta cheese, but it is also very good made with eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, new potatoes, or spinach instead of the peppers.
2 red bell peppers
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 medium purple onions, thinly sliced
4 eggs
¼ cup black olives, pitted and sliced
2 ounces feta cheese, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Cut the peppers in half and remove the core, pith, and seeds. Cut into thin strips. Heat half of the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the onions and peppers over a moderate heat until they are tender and starting to turn golden. Set aside to cool slightly. Beat the eggs in a bowl and add the onion mixture, black olives, feta cheese, and parsley. Mix well and season with salt and black pepper.
Heat the remaining olive oil in the same frying pan. When it is hot, pour in the egg mixture. Cook over gentle heat until the bottom is golden. Place under a preheated hot grill for 20 seconds to set the top and proceed as for frittata con le melanzane on page 238. Serve hot or at room temperature, cut in wedges like a pie. Serves 2 to 3.
Eggah bil Korrat
This omelette is flavored with sumac, which gives it a tangy, lemony flavor that goes very well with the leeks. It is also very good made with a bunch of green onions instead of leeks.
2 leeks (including the green tops)
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
4 eggs
1 tablespoon flour
½teaspoon sumac
½ teaspoon paprika
a good pinch of cinnamon
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Trim the ends of the leeks and cut in half lengthwise. Wash away any dirt that collects between the leaves and cut into 1 inch slices. Heat half of the olive oil in a heavy frying and cook the leeks over moderate heat until they are tender and starting to turn golden. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Set aside to cool.
Beat the eggs with the flour in a bowl. Add the leeks and spices and mix well. Season with salt and black pepper. Heat the remaining olive oil in the same frying pan and when it is hot, pour in the egg mixture. Cook over gentle heat until the bottom is golden. Place under a hot grill for 20 seconds and proceed as for frittata con le melanzane on page 240. Serve hot or at room temperature, cut in wedges like a pie. Serves 2 to 4.
Tortilla de Patata a la Espanola
The Spanish tortilla has been made in Spain for more than 400 years. Legend has it that it was originally created by a peasant for a hungry king—not, of course, with potatoes, which were not introduced into Spanish cooking until the eighteenth century. This version of the tortilla is made with separated eggs, which makes it very light and fluffy.
3 medium potatoes
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 eggs, separated
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Peel the potatoes and slice them fairly thinly. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy frying pan until it is very hot. Add the potatoes and stir briefly so they are well coated in oil. Reduce the heat and cook gently until the potatoes are tender and starting to turn golden. Remove with a slotted spoonand set aside.
Beat the egg yolks until they are pale. Season with salt and black pepper. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and fold into the egg yolks.
Lastly, fold in the potatoes. Heat the remaining olive oil in the same frying pan. When it is hot, pour in the egg mixture, spreading the potatoes evenly in the pan. Cook for a minute or two over fairly high heat to set the bottom. Reduce the heat and cook over gentle heat until the bottom is golden, shaking the pan from time to time, to prevent it sticking. Place the tortilla under a hot grill for 20 seconds and proceed as for frittata con le melanzane on page 240. Slice onto a serving plate and serve hot or at room temperature, cut in wedges like a pie. Serves 2 to 4.
Ejjet Ba’Doones
The Lebanese sometimes make their omelettes very small, like fritters or pancakes. They are usually served with a selection of salads or cooked vegetables dressed with olive oil and lemon juice.
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, about 4 ounces
½ bunch fresh mint
4 eggs
2 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon allspice
salt
freshly ground black pepper
olive oil for frying
Remove the outer stalks from the parsley and mint and discard. Chop the herbs finely. Beat the eggs in a large mixing bowl and add the parsley, mint, and spring onions and mix well. Add the spices and season with salt and black pepper.
Pour in enough olive oil to cover the bottom of a large frying pan. When it is hot, drop 2 tablespoons of the mixture into the pan and spread out evenly with a spatula to form a thin circle about 3 inches in diameter.
Cook 3 or 4 omelettes at a time. Fry until golden on both sides. Remove and drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining egg mixture until it is used up. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature. Serves 4.
Truita de Samfaina
This is one of the most popular omelettes in Catalonia. Samfaina is one of the five basic sauces of Catalan cooking. Reminiscent of the French ratatouille, it is made with a mixture of onion, sweet pepper, eggplant, tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil. When it is used as a sauce, a little water is added and the mixture is cooked down until it becomes the consistency of a jam or marmalade.
1 small eggplant, about ¼ pound
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 small red pepper, roasted, cored, seeded, and cut into strips
3 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
4 eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
To make the samfaina, trim the ends of the eggplant and dice into half-inch pieces. Heat 4 tablespoons olive oil in a frying pan and cook the onion over moderate heat until it is softened. Add the garlic and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the eggplant and pepper and stir well so they are coated in oil. Cover and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes or until tender. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook uncovered until the sauce is very thick. Set aside to cool.
Beat the eggs in a bowl and stir in the samfaina. Season with salt and black pepper. Heat the remaining olive oil in a heavy frying pan. When it is hot, pour in the egg mixture. Cook over gentle heat until the bottom is golden. Place under a hot grill for 20 seconds and proceed as for frittata son le melanzane on page 240. Serve hot, cut in wedges like a pie. Serves 2 to 4.
Troucho à la Niçarda
This tasty omelette can be made with Swiss chard or spinach or a combination of both. In Nice, it is often served cold for a picnic.
1 bunch Swiss chard (about 1 pound)
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 eggs
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon torn basil leaves
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Cut away the stalks and thick ribs of the Swiss chard and reserve for a soup or stew. Wash carefully and pat dry. Shred it finely. Heat half of the olive oil in a frying pan and add the Swiss chard. Cover and cook over moderate heat for 5 minutes or until it is wilted. Set aside.
Beat the eggs in a bowl and add the Swiss chard, herbs, and grated cheese. Mix well and season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper.
Heat the remaining olive oil in a heavy frying pan. When it is hot, pour in the egg mixture. Cook over gentle heat until the bottom is golden. Place under a hot grill for 20 seconds and proceed as for frittata on le melanzane on page 240. Serve hot or at room temperature, cut in wedges like a pie. Serves 4.
Omelette Provenfçale
In this recipe, the tomatoes are cooked down to make a kind of jam before they are added to the eggs. The omelette has a lovely orange color and a true Mediterranean flavor.
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 tablespoons torn basil leaves
5 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
4 eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and cook the garlic and herbs over a moderate heat for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for a further 10 to 15 minutes, stirring from time to time, until all the liquid is evaporated and the tomatoes are the consistency of jam. Set aside to cool slightly.
Beat the eggs in a bowl and add the tomato jam. Mix well and season with salt and black pepper. Heat the remaining olive oil in a heavy frying pan and when it is very hot, pour in the egg mixture. Cook over gentle heat until the bottom is golden, shaking the pan from time to time to prevent sticking. Place the frying pan under a hot grill and proceed as for frittata con le melanzane on page 240 Serve hot, cut in wedges like a pie. Serves 2 to 4.
Frittata Fredda Contadina
This frittata from Campania was traditionally eaten cold for lunch by peasants working in the fields. If Scamorza is unavailable, mozzarella may be used instead.
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 large onions, thinly sliced
4 eggs, separated
2 tablespoons torn basil leaves
¼ cup Scamorza or mozzarella cheese, diced into small pieces
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat half of the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the onions over gentle heat until they are very soft and starting to turn golden. Set aside to cool slightly. Beat the egg yolks in a bowl. Whisk the egg whites until stiff and fold into the egg yolks.
Carefully fold in the onions, basil, and cheese and season with salt and black pepper. Heat the remaining olive oil in the same frying pan. When it is very hot, pour in the egg mixture. Cook over gentle heat until the bottom is golden. Place under a hot grill for 20 seconds and proceed as for frittata con le melanzane on page 240. Serve at room temperature, cut in wedges like a pie. Serves 4.
Piscirova cò basilica
A piscirova or piscidova literally means “fish made of eggs,” probably because the eggs are mixed with bread crumbs and cooked, like fish, in hot oil. Be sure to leave plenty of room for these light fritters to puff out during cooking.
4 eggs
¼ cup freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese
½ cup fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
¼ cup soft bread crumbs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
olive oil for frying
Beat the eggs lightly in a bowl and add the grated cheese, basil, and bread crumbs. Season with salt and black pepper. Fry tablespoons of the batter in hot oil until golden on both sides. Drain on a paper towel. Serve hot. Serves 2-4.
Chakchouka bil-Khodra
In Tunisia and Algeria, a chakchouka is a vegetable stew that is usually combined with eggs. In Morocco, it is made with meat rather than eggs. The vegetables vary according to the season—artichokes, broad beans, and potatoes in spring; eggplant, zucchini, peppers, and tomatoes in summer.
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 red or green peppers, cored, seeded, and chopped
1-2 red chili peppers, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
3 medium zucchinis, sliced into rounds
5 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
4 eggs
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and cook the onions over moderate heat until they are softened. Add the peppers, chilies, and zucchinis and stir well so they are coated in oil. Cover and cook over a gentle heat for 25 to 30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned, stirring from time to time so they cook evenly. Add the tomatoes and cook, uncovered, for a further 8 to 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken.
Season with salt and black pepper. Make 4 depressions with the back of a spoon and break in the eggs. Cover and cook for 5 to 6 minutes or until the eggs are set. Serve at once. Serves 4.
Rollatine con Ricotta e Spinaci
These little omelettes from the Veneto are made with a little flour which gives them the consistency of very light pancakes. First they are stuffed with a mixture of spinach and ricotta, then they are topped with tomato sauce and grated cheese and gratineed in the oven. If you like you can bake them in individual dishes—2 or 3 omelettes per person.
FOR THE OMELETTES:
3 tablespoons flour
3-4 tablespoons of water
6 eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
3-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
FILLING:
¼ pound spinach
¾ cup ricotta
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
TOPPING:
1 recipe Tomato and Basil Sauce (see page 150)
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
To make the omelettes, place the flour in a bowl and gradually add the water until the mixture is free of lumps and the consistency of single cream. Beat the eggs in another bowl until they are light. Stir in the flour and water mixture and blend well. Season with salt and black pepper.
Heat a little olive oil in a heavy 6-inch frying pan. When it is hot, pour in about 3 tablespoons of the egg mixture. Quickly tilt the pan in all directions so the egg evenly covers the pan. Cook for about 1 minute on each side. Slide onto a plate and repeat until all of the egg mixture is used up.
To make the filling, wash the spinach carefully and cook in a covered saucepan over moderate heat for 5 minutes. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain, squeeze dry, and chop finely. Set aside to cool. Place the ricotta in a bowl and mash with a fork. Add the spinach and grated Parmesan cheese and blend well. Season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper.
Spoon a little filling into the center of each omelette and roll them up. Place the omelettes side by side in the bottom of a well-oiled shallow baking dish and spoon over the sauce. Sprinkle grated cheese over the top. Bake in a preheated 400°F oven for 15 minutes or until the omelettes are heated through and the cheese is melted. Serve at once. Serves 4 to 6.
Papeton de merinjano
Papeton, or aubergines des papes as it is sometimes called, is a kind of eggplant flan that was created in Avignon for one of the popes. Originally, it was cooked in the shape of a crown. It can be served hot or cold with a little tomato coulis on the side.
2 pounds eggplants
about½ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
a pinch of thyme
4 eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup Tomato Coulis (see page 156)
Peel the eggplants and dice into half-inch pieces. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and add the eggplant, garlic, and herbs. Stir well so they are evenly coated in oil. Cover and cook over a gentle heat for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring from time to time so they cook evenly, or until the eggplant is tender and starting to turn golden. Force through a sieve or purée in a food processor.
Beat the eggs lightly in a mixing bowl and add the eggplant purée. Mix well and season with salt and black pepper. Pour into a well-buttered soufflé dish and sprinkle the grated cheese over the top. Place in a pan of hot water and bake in the lower third of a 190°F oven for 40 minutes or until the top is golden and the center is done. Serve hot or cold with tomato coulis on the side. Serves 4.
Sformato Verde
A sformato is a kind of molded soufflé or pudding that is usually made with puréed vegetables, béchamel sauce or ricotta cheese and eggs. It is much easier to prepare than a soufflé and makes a very good light lunch with a salad on the side.
1 pound spinach
1½ cups ricotta
3 eggs, separated
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons butter
dry bread crumbs
Wash the spinach and cook in a covered saucepan over a moderate heat for 5 minutes, or until tender. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain, squeeze dry, and chop finely. Set aside to cool.
Sieve the ricotta into a mixing bowl and add the egg yolks. Blend well. Stir in the spinach and ¼ cup Parmesan cheese and mix well. Season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper.
Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold into the mixture. Pour into a well-buttered souffle dish that has been dusted with bread crumbs. Sprinkle the remaining Parmesan cheese over the top. Bake in a preheated 375°F oven for 30 minutes or until the sformato is well risen and the center is done. Serves 4.
Markhouda bil-Batata
A markhouda is a cross between a French flan and a baked Italian frittata. In Tunisia, it is often called an omelette juive as it is a traditional dairy dish of Sephardic Jews.
1 pound potatoes
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
6 eggs, lightly beaten
½ teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon turmeric
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons butter
Cook the potatoes in lightly salted water for 20 minutes or until they are tender. Drain and peel when they are cool enough to handle. Force through a sieve into a mixing bowl. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the onions over moderate heat until the onions start to turn golden. Add to the potatoes together with the eggs, parsley, and spices. Mix well and season with salt and black pepper.
Pour into a well-oiled shallow baking dish and dot with butter. Bake in a preheated 375°F oven for 40 minutes or until the center is set and the top is nicely browned. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 4 to 6.
Kolokythakia Soufflé
This souffle is very light and easy to prepare.
2 pounds zucchini
about ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 large eggs
⅔ cup grated Kefalotyri or Parmesan cheese
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Trim the ends of the zucchini and slice them into rounds. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the zucchini over moderate heat until tender and starting to turn golden, stirring from time to time so it cooks evenly. Force through a sieve or purée in a food processor. Add the egg yolks and ½ cup grated cheese and mix well.
Season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Beat the egg whites stiff and fold into the mixture. Pour into a well-buttered soufflé dish and sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top. Bake in a preheated 400°F oven and reduce the heat immediately to 375°F. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes oruntil the soufflé is well risen and the center is done. Serve at once. Serves 4.
Soufflé di Carciofi
This savory soufflé from Liguria makes an elegant light lunch or supper dish with a salad on the side.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
8 or 9 frozen artichoke bottoms, thawed and sliced
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
¾ cup hot milk
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3 egg yolks
3 egg whites
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the artichoke bottoms over moderate heat until they are tender and starting to turn golden. Force through a sieve or purée in a food processor. Set aside.
Prepare a thick béchamel sauce with the butter, flour, and hot milk as directed on page 213. Remove from the heat and add the artichoke purée and grated cheese. Blend well and season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Add the egg yolks one at a time and mix well. Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold into the mixture. Pour into a well-buttered soufflé dish and bake in a preheated 400°F oven and reduce the heat immediately to 375°F. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the soufflé is well risen and the center is done, Serve at once. Serves 4.