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Carmel-by-the-Sea | Carmel Valley | Pebble Beach | Pacific Grove
As Highway 1 swings inland about 30 miles north of Big Sur, historic Carmel-by-the Sea anchors the southern entry to the Monterey Peninsula—a gorgeous promontory at the southern tip of Monterey Bay. Just north of Carmel along the coast, the legendary 17-Mile Drive wends its way through private Pebble Beach and the town of Pacific Grove. Highway 1 skirts the peninsula to the east with more direct access to Pebble Beach and Pacific Grove.
Carmel-by-the-Sea
26 miles north of Big Sur.
Even when its population quadruples with tourists on weekends and in summer, Carmel-by-the-Sea, commonly referred to as Carmel, retains its identity as a quaint village. Self-consciously charming, the town is populated by many celebrities, major and minor, and has its share of quirky ordinances. For instance, women wearing high heels do not have the right to pursue legal action if they trip and fall on the cobblestone streets, and drivers who hit a tree and leave the scene are charged with hit-and-run.
Buildings have no street numbers—street names are written on discreet white posts—and consequently no mail delivery. One way to commune with the locals: head to the post office. Artists started this community, and their legacy is evident in the numerous galleries.
Getting Here and Around
From north or south follow Highway 1 to Carmel. Head west at Ocean Avenue to reach the main village hub. In summer the MST Carmel-by-the-Sea Trolley loops around town to the beach and mission every 30 minutes or so.
Tours
Carmel Walks.
For insight into Carmel’s history and culture, join one of these guided two-hour ambles through hidden courtyards, gardens, and pathways. Tours depart from the Pine Inn courtyard, on Lincoln Street. Call to reserve a spot. | Lincoln St. at 6th Ave. | 831/223–4399 | carmelwalks.com | From $25 | Tues.–Fri. 10, Sat. 10 and 2.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Carmel Chamber of Commerce. | Visitor Center, San Carlos, between 5th and 6th | 831/624–2522, 800/550–4333 | carmelcalifornia.org | Daily 10–5.
Exploring
Top Attractions
Carmel Mission.
Long before it became a shopping and browsing destination, Carmel was an important religious center during the establishment of Spanish California. That heritage is preserved in the Mission San Carlos Borroméo del Rio Carmelo, more commonly known as the Carmel Mission. Founded in 1771, it served as headquarters for the mission system in California under Father Junípero Serra. Adjoining the stone church is a tranquil garden planted with California poppies. Museum rooms at the mission include an early kitchen, Serra’s spartan sleeping quarters and burial shrine, and the first college library in California. | 3080 Rio Rd., at Lasuen Dr. | 831/624–1271 | carmelmission.org | $6.50 | May–Aug., daily 9:30–6:45; Sept.–Apr., daily 9:30–4:45.
Fodor’s Choice | Ocean Avenue.
Downtown Carmel’s chief lure is shopping, especially along its main street, Ocean Avenue, between Junipero Avenue and Camino Real. The architecture here is a mishmash of ersatz Tudor, Mediterranean, and other styles.
Fodor’s Choice | Point Lobos State Natural Reserve.
A 350-acre headland harboring a wealth of marine life, the reserve lies a few miles south of Carmel. The best way to explore here is to walk along one of the many trails. The Cypress Grove Trail leads through a forest of Monterey cypress (one of only two natural groves remaining) that clings to the rocks above an emerald-green cove. Sea Lion Point Trail is a good place to view sea lions. From those and other trails, you might also spot otters, harbor seals, and (in winter and spring) migrating whales. An additional 750 acres of the reserve is an undersea marine park open to qualified scuba divers. No pets are allowed. TIP Arrive early (or in late afternoon) to avoid crowds; the parking lots fill up. | Hwy. 1 | 831/624–4909, 831/624–8413 water sports reservations | www.pointlobos.org | $10 per vehicle | Daily 8 am–½ hr after sunset.
Worth Noting
Carmel Wine Walk By-the-Sea.
If you purchase a Wine Walk Passport, you can park the car and sample local wines at any nine of 14 tasting rooms, all within a few blocks of each other in downtown Carmel. Individual passports be used by two or more people at the same tasting room, and they entitle holders to free corkage at some local restaurants. | Carmel Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center, San Carlos St., between 5th and 6th Aves. | 831/624–2522, 800/550–4333 | carmelcalifornia.org | $65.
Dawson Cole Fine Art.
Amazing images of dancers, athletes, and other humans in motion come to life in this gallery that is devoted to the artworks of Monterey Bay resident Richard MacDonald, one of the most famed figurative sculptors of our time. | Lincoln St., at 6th Ave. | 800/972–5528 | dawsoncolefineart.com | Free | Mon.–Sat. 10–6, Sun. 10–5:30.
Tor House.
Scattered throughout the pines of Carmel-by-the-Sea are houses and cottages originally built for the writers, artists, and photographers who discovered the area decades ago. Among the most impressive dwellings is Tor House, a stone cottage built in 1919 by poet Robinson Jeffers on a craggy knoll overlooking the sea. Portraits, books, and unusual art objects fill the low-ceilinged rooms. The highlight of the small estate is Hawk Tower, a detached edifice set with stones from the Carmel coastline—as well as one from the Great Wall of China. The docents who lead tours (six people maximum) are well informed about the poet’s work and life. TIP To reserve a tour, which is recommended, email thf@torhouse.org. | 26304 Ocean View Ave. | 831/624–1813, 831/624–1840 direct docent office line, Fri. and Sat. only | www.torhouse.org | $10 | Hourly tours Fri. and Sat. 10–3 | No children under 12.
Beaches
Carmel Beach.
Carmel-by-the-Sea’s greatest attraction is its rugged coastline, with pine and cypress forests and countless inlets. Carmel Beach, an easy walk from downtown shops, has sparkling white sands and magnificent sunsets. TIP Dogs are allowed to romp off-leash here. Amenities: parking (no fee); toilets. Best For: sunset; surfing; walking. | End of Ocean Ave.
Carmel River State Beach.
This sugar-white beach, stretching 106 acres along Carmel Bay, is adjacent to a bird sanctuary, where you might spot pelicans, kingfishers, hawks, and sandpipers. Dogs are allowed on leash. Amenities: parking (no fee); toilets. Best For: sunrise; sunset; walking. | Off Scenic Rd., south of Carmel Beach | 831/649–2836 | www.parks.ca.gov | Free | Spring–fall, daily 8–7; winter, daily 8 am–½ hr after sunset.
Where to Eat
Andre’s Bouchée.
$$$ | FRENCH | The food here represents an innovative bistro-style take on local ingredients. A Monterey Bay sea scallop reduction adorns pan-seared veal tenderloin; grilled rib-eye steaks are topped with a shallot–Cabernet Sauvignon sauce. With its copper wine bar, the dining room feels more urban than most of Carmel. The owners operate the adjacent wineshop, which explains the dizzyingly comprehensive, 52-page wine list. | Average main: $30 | Mission St., between Ocean and 7th Aves. | 831/626–7880 | andresbouchee.com | Reservations essential | No lunch Mon. and Tues.
Anton and Michel.
$$$$ | EUROPEAN | Carefully prepared European cuisine is the draw at this airy restaurant. The rack of lamb is carved at the table, the grilled halloumi cheese and tomatoes are meticulously stacked and served with basil and Kalamata olive tapenade, and the desserts are set aflame before your eyes. TIP For lighter fare with a worldwide flair, head to the bar, where small plates such as Dungeness crab ravioli and brochette of filet mignon with chimichurri sauce are served. | Average main: $32 | Mission St. and 7th Ave. | 831/624–2406 | antonandmichel.com | Reservations essential.
Fodor’s Choice | Aubergine.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | To eat and sleep at luxe L’Auberge Carmel is an experience in itself, but even those staying elsewhere can splurge at the inn’s intimate restaurant. Chef Justin Cogley’s prix-fixe regular menu ($110) includes four or five courses—perhaps chilled Dungeness crab with pumpkin seeds and spaghetti squash, yellowtail with seaweed and hibiscus, dry-aged rib eye grilled over binchotan (white charcoal), milk chocolate tart with pear and walnut, and an optional artisanal cheese plate. You can also choose the tasting menu ($145), for which the chefs assemble surprise courses. The well-informed sommelier helps diners navigate the wine list—Aubergine’s cellar holds 2,500 bottles—and offers wine pairings for your courses (from $75 to $175). | Average main: $110 | Monte Verde, at 7th Ave. | 831/624–8578 | auberginecarmel.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Basil.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Eco-friendly Basil was Monterey County’s first restaurant to achieve a green dining certification, recognition of chef-owner Soerke Peters’s commitment to using organic, sustainably cultivated ingredients in his cuisine. Peters grows many of his own herbs, which find their way into creative dishes such as black squid linguine with sea urchin sauce, creamy duck liver–pear pâté, and smoked venison and other house-made charcuterie. The grass-fed burger is a good lunch choice, as are, in season, the crab sliders. French toast with poached eggs and truffled mushrooms is a Sunday brunch staple. You can dine in the eight-table interior or on the outdoor covered patio, where heaters and blankets provide warmth year-round. | Average main: $23 | Paseo Square, San Carlos St., between Ocean Ave. and 7th Ave. | 831/636–8226 | basilcarmel.com | Reservations essential.
Casanova.
$$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | This restaurant inspires European-style celebration and romance: accordions hang from the walls, and tiny party lights flicker along the low ceilings. Dishes from southern France and northern Italy—game hen, osso buco, Wagyu beef tartare—predominate. Private dining and a special tasting menu are offered at Van Gogh’s Table, a relic from France’s Auberge Ravoux, the artist’s final residence. | Average main: $32 | 5th Ave., between San Carlos and Mission Sts. | 831/625–0501 | www.casanovarestaurant.com | Reservations essential.
The Cottage Restaurant.
$ | AMERICAN | This family-friendly spot serves sandwiches, pizzas, and homemade soups at lunch, but the best meal is breakfast (good thing it’s served all day). The menu offers six variations on eggs Benedict, and all kinds of sweet and savory crepes. | Average main: $15 | Lincoln St., between Ocean and 7th Aves. | 831/625–6260 | cottagerestaurant.com | No dinner.
Flying Fish Grill.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Simple in appearance yet bold with its flavors, this Japanese–California seafood restaurant is one of Carmel’s most inventive eateries. Among the best entrées is the almond-crusted sea bass served with Chinese cabbage and rock shrimp stir-fry. The warm, wood-lined dining room is broken up into very private booths. | Average main: $28 | Carmel Plaza, Mission St., between Ocean and 7th Aves. | 831/625–1962 | flyingfishgrill.com | No lunch.
Grasing’s Coastal Cuisine.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | Chef Kurt Grasing draws from fresh Carmel Coast and Central Valley ingredients to whip up contemporary adaptations of European-provincial and American cooking. Longtime menu favorites include artichoke lasagna in a roasted tomato sauce, duck with fresh cherries in a red wine sauce, a savory paella, and grilled steaks and chops. | Average main: $34 | 6th Ave. and Mission St. | 831/624–6562 | grasings.com | Reservations essential.
L’Escargot.
$$$$ | FRENCH | Chef-owner Kericos Loutas personally sees to each plate of food served at this romantic, unpretentious French restaurant. Order the pan-roasted duck breast or the cassoulet de Toulouse; or, if you can’t decide, choose the three-course prix-fixe dinner. | Average main: $32 | Mission and 4th Ave. | 831/620–1942 | escargot-carmel.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Lugano Swiss Bistro.
$$$ | SWISS | Fondue is the centerpiece here. The house specialty is a version made with Gruyère, Emmentaler, and Appenzeller. Rotisserie-broiled meats are also popular, and include rosemary chicken, plum-basted duck, and fennel pork loin. Ask for a table in the back room, which contains a hand-painted street scene of Lugano, or on the sunny patio. | Average main: $27 | Barnyard Shopping Center, Hwy. 1 and Carmel Valley Rd. | 831/626–3779 | www.swissbistro.com | Closed Mon. Oct.–Mar. except for private parties and tour buses.
Mundaka.
$$ | TAPAS | The traditional Spanish-style tapas, made with fresh local ingredients, and the full bar attract legions of locals to this downtown spot. Longtime favorites include the chorizo slider with truffle fries, the authentic Valencian paella, and a charcuterie platter made in-house. At the adjacent Mundaka Cafe, the breakfast menu includes Spanish tortillas, Belgian waffles, and homemade baked goods; among the lunchtime choices are sandwiches, soups, and salads. Leashed dogs are welcome at the patio tables. | Average main: $21 | San Carlos St., between Ocean and 7th Aves. | 831/624–7400 | www.mundakacarmel.com.
Tuck Box.
$ | AMERICAN | This bright little restaurant is in a cottage right out of a fairy tale, complete with stone fireplace. Handmade scones, good for breakfast or afternoon tea, are the specialty. | Average main: $12 | Dolores St., between Ocean and 7th Aves. | 831/624–6365 | tuckbox.com | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | No dinner.
Vesuvio.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Chef and restaurateur Rich Pèpe heats up the night with this lively trattoria downstairs and swinging rooftop terrace, the Starlight Lounge 65°. Pèpe’s elegant take on traditional Italian cuisine yields dishes such as wild-boar Bolognese pappardelle, lobster ravioli, and velvety limoncello mousse cake. Pizzas and small plates are served in the restaurant and two bars. Upstairs, relax in comfy chairs by fire pits and enjoy bird’s-eye views of the village. On most nights in summer there’s live music. | Average main: $26 | 6th and Junipero Aves. | 831/625–1766 | vesuviocarmel.com | No lunch.
Where to Stay
Cobblestone Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Stones from the Carmel River cover the exterior walls of this English-style country inn, and the works of local painters are on display inside. Guest rooms have stone fireplaces, patterned wallpaper and fabrics, and fluffy duvets on the beds. Antiques in the cozy sitting room, and afternoon wine and hors d’oeuvres, contribute to the homey feel. Pros: cozy; convenient access to Highway 1; great breakfast. Cons: tour buses park nearby; not ideal for families. | Rooms from: $210 | Junipero Ave., between 7th and 8th Aves. | 831/625–5222, 800/833–8836 | cobblestoneinncarmel.com | 22 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.
Cypress Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | This luxurious inn has a fresh Mediterranean ambience with Moroccan touches. Rooms have wrought-iron bed frames and rattan armchairs; some rooms have fireplaces, some hot tubs, and one (Room 215) has a sunny veranda with an ocean view. The in-town location makes walking to area attractions easy, and pet owners will be pleased that in the spirit of the inn’s dog-loving co-owner, movie star Doris Day, animal companions are always welcome. Pros: luxury without snobbery; popular lounge and restaurant; British-style afternoon tea on weekends. Cons: not for the pet-phobic. | Rooms from: $250 | Lincoln St. and 7th Ave. | 831/624–3871, 800/443–7443 | cypress-inn.com | 39 rooms, 5 suites | Breakfast.
Hyatt Carmel Highlands.
$$$$ | HOTEL | High on a hill overlooking the Pacific, this place has superb views; accommodations include king rooms with fireplaces, suites with personal Jacuzzis, and full town houses with many perks. The excellent meals at the inn’s Pacific’s Edge restaurant ($$$$) are a blend of French and California cuisine. Even if you don’t dine here, order a cocktail and appetizers in the ocean-view Sunset Lounge. Pros: killer views; romantic getaway; great food. Cons: thin walls; must drive to Carmel. | Rooms from: $399 | 120 Highlands Dr. | 831/620–1234, 800/233–1234 | highlandsinn.hyatt.com | 46 rooms, 2 suites.
Fodor’s Choice | L’Auberge Carmel.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Stepping through the doors of this elegant inn is like being transported to a little European village. The rooms are luxurious yet understated, with Italian sheets and huge, classic soaking tubs; sitting in the sun-soaked brick courtyard makes you feel like a movie star. The inn’s intimate, 12-table restaurant, Aubergine (FWhere to Eat), epitomizes farm-to-table gourmet dining. Pros: in town but off the main drag; four blocks from the beach; full-service luxury. Cons: touristy area; not a good choice for families. | Rooms from: $435 | Monte Verde at 7th Ave. | 831/624–8578 | www.laubergecarmel.com | 20 rooms | Breakfast.
La Playa Carmel.
$$$$ | HOTEL | A historic complex of lush gardens and Mediterranean-style buildings, La Playa has light and airy interiors done in Carmel Bay beach-cottage style. Norwegian artist Christopher Jorgensen built this property’s original structure in 1905 for his bride, a member of the Ghirardelli Chocolate clan. Rooms are small but comfortable; some have views of gardens or the ocean. Rates include a daily champagne brunch. Pros: residential neighborhood; manicured gardens; two blocks from the beach. Cons: four stories (no elevator); busy lobby; some rooms are on the small side. | Rooms from: $458 | Camino Real, at 8th Ave. | 831/293–6100, 800/582–8900 | laplayahotel.com | 75 rooms | Breakfast.
Lobos Lodge.
$$ | HOTEL | The white-stucco motel units here are set amid cypresses, oaks, and pines on the edge of the business district. All accommodations have fireplaces, and most have private patios or balconies. Pros: walking distance from beach and village attractions; inviting lobby; continental breakfast delivered to your room. Cons: no outdoor facilities; sits on a busy avenue. | Rooms from: $175 | Monte Verde St. and Ocean Ave. | 831/624–3874 | www.loboslodge.com | 28 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.
Mission Ranch.
$$ | HOTEL | Movie star Clint Eastwood owns this sprawling property whose accommodations include rooms in a converted barn, and several cottages, some with fireplaces. The ranch is nicely decorated but low-key, with a 19th-century farmhouse as the central building. The ranch itself is gorgeous, and includes a sheep pasture, bird-filled wetlands, and a sweeping view of the ocean. Though the ranch belongs to Eastwood, relaxation, not celebrity, is the focus here. The inn’s sister property, The Homestead, has 12 rooms in an early 1900s home and cottages in downtown Carmel. Pros: farm setting; pastoral views; great for tennis buffs. Cons: busy parking lot; must drive to the heart of town. | Rooms from: $140 | 26270 Dolores St. | 831/624–6436, 800/538–8221, 831/625–9040 restaurant | www.missionranchcarmel.com | 31 rooms | Breakfast.
Pine Inn.
$$$ | HOTEL | A favorite with generations of visitors, the Pine Inn is four blocks from the beach and has Victorian-style furnishings, complete with grandfather clock, padded fabric wall panels, antique tapestries, and marble tabletops. The property includes a brick courtyard of specialty shops and a modern Italian restaurant. On weekdays the room rates include a buffet breakfast; weekend guests receive a voucher good for a $5 discount at the restaurant. Pros: elegant; close to shopping and dining. Cons: on the town’s busiest street; public areas a bit dark. | Rooms from: $179 | Ocean Ave. and Monte Verde St. | 831/624–3851, 800/228–3851 | pineinn.com | 43 rooms, 6 suites | Breakfast.
Sea View Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | In a residential area a few hundred feet from the beach, this restored 1905 home has a double parlor with two fireplaces, oriental rugs, canopy beds, and a spacious front porch. The rooms are individually done in cheery colors and country patterns, and the bathrooms have recently been remodeled. A feeling of quiet prevails here, in part because rooms have no TVs or phones (though there is free Wi-Fi). Complimentary wine and cheese are served in the evening. The inn welcomes children ages 16 and up. Pros: quiet; private; close to the beach; free Wi-Fi. Cons: small building; uphill trek to the heart of town. | Rooms from: $200 | Camino Real, between 11th and 12th Aves. | 831/624–8778 | seaviewinncarmel.com | 8 rooms, 6 with private bath | Breakfast.
Tally Ho Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | This inn is nearly all suites, many of which have fireplaces and floor-to-ceiling glass walls that open onto ocean-view patios. The motif is reproduction Old World and can lean heavily toward the floral, but all rooms have spa tubs and marble bathrooms. Evening aperitifs are served in the English garden courtyard, where a fire blazes on chilly nights. Pros: within walking distance of shops, restaurants, beach. Cons: small property; busy area. | Rooms from: $199 | Monte Verde St. and 6th Ave. | 831/624–2232, 800/652–2632 | tallyho-inn.com | 1 room, 11 suites | Breakfast.
Tickle Pink Inn.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Atop a towering cliff, this inn has views of the Big Sur coastline, which you can contemplate from your private balcony. After falling asleep to the sound of surf crashing below, you’ll wake to a continental breakfast and the morning paper in bed. If you prefer the company of fellow travelers, breakfast is also served buffet-style in the lounge, as are complimentary wine and cheese in the afternoon. Many rooms have wood-burning fireplaces, and there are six luxurious spa suites and a private two-bedroom cottage. Pros: close to great hiking; intimate; dramatic views. Cons: close to a big hotel; lots of traffic during the day. | Rooms from: $309 | 155 Highland Dr. | 831/624–1244, 800/635–4774 | ticklepink.com | 23 rooms, 10 suites, 1 cottage | Breakfast.
Tradewinds Carmel.
$$$ | B&B/INN | This converted motel with sleek decor inspired by the South Seas encircles a courtyard with waterfalls, a meditation garden, and a fire pit. Each room has a tabletop fountain and orchids that complement the antique and custom furniture from Bali and China. Some private balconies afford a view of the bay or the mountains. Treat yourself to an in-room shell massage; afterward, you’ll feel as if you just spent a week unwinding on a tropical beach. The chic boutique hotel, owned by the same family since it opened in 1959, is on a quiet downtown side street. Pros: serene; within walking distance of restaurants; friendly service. Cons: no pool; long walk to the beach. | Rooms from: $250 | Mission St., at 3rd Ave. | 831/624–2776 | tradewindscarmel.com | 26 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.
Performing Arts
Carmel Bach Festival.
The festival has presented the works of Johann Sebastian Bach, his contemporaries, and musical heirs in concerts and recitals since 1935. The festival runs for three weeks, starting mid-July. | 831/624–1521 | bachfestival.org.
Monterey Symphony.
The symphony performs classical concerts from October through May at the Sunset Center in Carmel and at the Performing Arts Center of the Steinbeck Institute of Art & Culture in Salinas. | 831/646–8511 | montereysymphony.org.
Pacific Repertory Theater.
The theater puts on the Carmel Shakespeare Festival from August through November and performs contemporary dramas and comedies at several area venues throughout the year. | 831/622–0100 box office, 866/622–0709 toll free | pacrep.org.
Sunset Center.
The Monterey Bay Area’s top venue for the performing arts presents concerts, lectures, and headline acts. | San Carlos St., at 9th Ave. | 831/620–2048 box office | sunsetcenter.org.
Nightlife
Bars and Pubs
Barmel.
Al Capone and other Prohibition-era legends once sidled up to this hip nightspot’s carved wooden bar. Rock to DJ music and sit indoors, or head out to the pet-friendly patio. Some menu items pay homage to California’s early days, and you can order Spanish tapas and wines from the adjacent Mundaka restaurant, which is under the same ownership. | San Carlos St., between Ocean and 7th Aves. | 831/626–3400 | www.mundakacarmel.com | No credit cards.
Jack London’s.
Among the few Carmel restaurants that serve food late, this publike hangout, also open for lunch, is a good stop for a beer or cocktail or to watch sports on TV. On most weekends Jack London’s hosts live music. The weekday happy hour (from 4 to 6) is a bargain. | Su Vecino Court, Dolores St., between 5th and 6th Aves. | 831/624–2336 | jacklondonscarmel.com.
Shopping
Art Galleries
Carmel Art Association.
Carmel’s oldest gallery, established in 1927, exhibits original paintings and sculptures by local artists. | Dolores St., between 5th and 6th Aves. | 831/624–6176 | carmelart.org.
Galerie Plein Aire.
The gallery showcases the oil paintings of a group of local artists. | Dolores St., between 5th and 6th Aves. | 831/625–5686 | galeriepleinaire.com.
Gallery Sur.
Fine art photography of the Big Sur Coast and the Monterey Peninsula, including scenic shots and golf images, is the focus here. | 6th Ave., between Dolores and Lincoln Sts. | 831/626–2615 | gallerysur.com.
Weston Gallery.
Run by the family of the late Edward Weston, this is hands down the best photography gallery around, with contemporary color photography and classic black-and-whites. | 6th Ave., between Dolores and Lincoln Sts. | 831/624–4453 | westongallery.com.
Carmel Plaza.
Tiffany & Co. and J. Crew are among the name brands doing business at this mall on Carmel’s east side, but what makes it worth a stop are homegrown enterprises such as Blue Lemon, for artsy, handcrafted clothing and jewelry; Madrigal and Sylvie Unique Boutique, for women’s fashion; and J. Lawrence Khaki’s for debonair menswear. Flying Fish Grill and several other restaurants are here, along with the Wrath Wines tasting room (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir). | Ocean Ave. and Mission St. | 831/624–1385 | carmelplaza.com.
Specialty Shops
Bittner.
The shop carries collectible and vintage pens from around the world. | Ocean Ave., between Mission and San Carlos Sts. | 831/626–8828 | bittner.com.
Intima.
The European lingerie that ranges from lacy to racy. | San Carlos St., between Ocean and 6th Aves. | 831/625–0599 | www.intimacarmel.com.
Jan de Luz.
This shop monograms and embroiders fine linens (including bathrobes) while you wait. | Dolores St., between Ocean and 7th Aves. | 831/622–7621 | www.jandeluz.com.
Carmel Valley
10 miles east of Carmel.
Carmel Valley Road, which heads inland from Highway 1 south of Carmel, is the main thoroughfare through this valley, a secluded enclave of horse ranchers and other well-heeled residents who prefer the area’s sunny climate to coastal fog and wind. Once thick with dairy farms, the valley has evolved into an esteemed wine appellation. Carmel Valley Village has crafts shops, art galleries, and the tasting rooms of numerous local wineries.
Getting Here and Around
From U.S. 101 north or south, exit at Highway 68 and head west toward the coast. Scenic, two-lane Laureles Grade winds west over the mountains to Carmel Valley Road north of the village.
Tours
Carmel Valley Grapevine Express.
An incredible bargain, the express—aka MST’s Bus 24—travels between downtown Monterey and Carmel Valley Village, with stops near wineries, restaurants, and shopping centers. | 888/678–2871 | mst.org | $10 all-day pass.
Exploring
Top Attractions
Bernardus Tasting Room.
At the tasting room of Bernardus, known for its Bordeaux-style red blend, called Marinus, and Chardonnays, you can sample current releases and library and reserve wines. | 5 W. Carmel Valley Rd., at El Caminito Rd. | 831/298–8021, 800/223–2533 | bernardus.com | Tastings $12–$20 | Daily 11–5.
Château Julien.
The expansive winery, best known for its Chardonnays and Merlots, offers daily public tours and a range of private tours and tastings, available by appointment. Tours take in some of the 16-acre estate and its traditional French-style buildings, gardens, and vineyards. | 8940 Carmel Valley Rd., at Schetter Rd. | Carmel | 831/624–2600 | chateaujulien.com | Tasting $15 (includes tour), private tours $20–$100 | Winery weekdays 8–5, weekends 11–5; public tour (reservations encouraged) daily at 12:30 and 2:30.
Cowgirl Winery.
Cowgirl chic prevails in the main tasting building here, and it’s just plain rustic at the outdoor tables, set amid chickens, a tractor, and a flatbed truck. The wines include Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé, and some blends. You can order a wood-fired pizza from sister business Corkscrew Café, and play boccie ball, horseshoes, or corn hole until your food arrives. | 25 Pilot Rd., off W. Carmel Valley Rd. | 831/298–7030 | cowgirlwinery.com | Tasting $13 | Sun.–Fri. 11:30–5, Sat. until 6 (until 7 Apr.–Oct.).
Holman Ranch Vineyards Tasting Room.
Estate-grown Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir are among the standout wines made by Holman Ranch, which operates a tasting room in Carmel Valley village. If the Heather’s Hill Pinot is being poured, be sure to try it. The ranch itself occupies rolling hills once part of the Carmel mission’s land grant. You can book winery and vineyard tours by appointment, and the ranch welcomes overnight guests at its 10-room hacienda. | 19 E. Carmel Valley Rd., Suite C | 831/659–2640 | holmanranch.com | Tastings $8–$12 | Late May–early Sept., Mon.–Thurs. 11–6, Fri.–Sun. noon–7; early Sept.–late May, daily 11–6.
Worth Noting
Earthbound Farm.
Pick up fresh vegetables, ready-to-eat meals, gourmet groceries, flowers, and gifts at Earthbound Farm, the world’s largest grower of organic produce. You can also take a romp in the kid’s garden, cut your own herbs, and stroll through the chamomile aromatherapy labyrinth. Special events, on Saturday from April through December, include bug walks and garlic-braiding workshops. | 7250 Carmel Valley Rd. | Carmel | 831/625–6219 | www.ebfarm.com | Free | Mon.–Sat. 8–6:30, Sun. 9–6.
Garland Ranch Regional Park.
Hiking trails stretch across much of this park’s 4,500 acres of meadows, forested hillsides, and creeks. | Carmel Valley Rd., 9 miles east of Carmel-by-the-Sea | 831/659–4488 | www.mprpd.org.
Where to Eat
Café Rustica.
$$ | EUROPEAN | European country cooking is the focus at this lively roadhouse. Specialties include roasted meats, seafood, pastas, and thin-crust pizzas from the wood-fired oven. It can get noisy inside; for a quieter meal, request a table outside. | Average main: $21 | 10 Delfino Pl., at Pilot Rd., off Carmel Valley Rd. | 831/659–4444 | caferusticavillage.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon.
Corkscrew Café.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Farm-fresh food is the specialty of this casual, Old Monterey–style bistro. Herbs and seasonal produce come from the Corkscrew’s own organic gardens, the catch of the day comes from local waters, and the meats are hormone-free. Popular dishes include the fish tacos, chicken salad, and wood-fired pizzas, which come with classic toppings and unusual ones such as Meyer lemon and prosciutto. You can dine indoors near the open kitchen, or outside in the garden patio. TIP Don’t miss the collection of corkscrews from the 17th century to the present. | Average main: $22 | 55 W. Carmel Valley Rd., at Pilot Rd. | 831/659–8888 | corkscrewcafe.com.
LokaL.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | After stints in Spain and Prague, where he ran a popular bar, local boy and chef Brendan Jones fashioned his restaurant (lokal is Czech slang for “local”) to encourage social interaction. Order Czech-style beer on tap at the 29-foot, recycled-redwood bar and dine on inventive tapas, burgers, and sandwiches that riff off Jones’s Spanish and Czech influences. | Average main: $25 | 13750 Center St., off Village Dr. | 831/659–5886 | No dinner Wed. Closed Mon. and Tues.
Wagon Wheel Coffee Shop.
$ | AMERICAN | This local hangout decorated with wagon wheels, cowboy hats, and lassos serves terrific hearty breakfasts, including oatmeal and banana pancakes, eggs Benedict, and biscuits and gravy. The lunch menu includes a dozen different burgers and other sandwiches. | Average main: $12 | Valley Hill Center,7156 Carmel Valley Rd., next to Quail Lodge | Carmel | 831/624–8878 | No credit cards | No dinner.
Will’s Fargo.
$$$ | AMERICAN | Around since the 1920s, this restaurant calls itself a “dressed-up saloon.” Steer horns and gilt-frame paintings adorn the walls of the Victorian-style dining room; you can also eat on the patios. The menu, for years mainly seafood and steaks, including a 20-ounce porterhouse, is evolving under new owners, the proprietors of Holman Ranch Vineyards. Their wines, along with those of other local vintners, dominate the extensive list. | Average main: $28 | 16 E. Carmel Valley Rd., at Via Contenta | 831/659–2774 | wfrestaurant.com | No lunch Sept.–mid-May, no lunch weekdays mid-May.–Aug.
Where to Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Bernardus Lodge.
$$$$ | RESORT | The spacious guest rooms at this luxury spa resort, which was completely remodeled before reopening in spring 2015, have vaulted ceilings, French oak floors, featherbeds, fireplaces, patios, and bathrooms with heated-tile floors and soaking tubs for two. Before you even check in, the valet hands you a glass of Sauvignon Blanc. The two restaurants, open daily, have seasonal menus that highlight local meats, seafood, and produce. Reserve the chef’s table in the main kitchen, and you can talk to the chef as he prepares your meal. Pros: exceptional personal service; outstanding food and wine. Cons: pricey; some guests can seem snooty. | Rooms from: $475 | 415 W. Carmel Valley Rd. | 831/658–3400 | bernarduslodge.com | 56 rooms, 1 suite.
Carmel Valley Lodge.
$$$ | HOTEL | Tong P. King, a South Korean–born poet, painter, and the author of 609020: Rainbow Ssambap, a book about a healthful, all-natural vegetarian salad he promotes, bought this small inn in 2014 and transformed it into a vegan-based, residential health resort. Classes in painting, poetry, and other body–mind boosting activities take place here. The inn is also open to the public for overnight stays, and rates include a full vegan breakfast. The accommodations options include rooms surrounding a garden patio, as well as separate one- and two-bedroom cottages with fireplaces and full kitchens. Open-beam ceilings and easy chairs give the rooms a casual, almost rustic air. Pros: peaceful property; good value; friendly staff; close to village. Cons: may be too health-oriented for some. | Rooms from: $189 | 8 Ford Rd., at Carmel Valley Rd. | 831/659–2261, 800/641–4646 | valleylodge.com | 19 rooms, 4 suites, 8 cottages | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Carmel Valley Ranch.
$$$$ | RESORT | The activity options at this luxury ranch are so varied that the resort provides a program director to guide you through them. Swing from a tree, hike in the woods, meditate on a hilltop yoga platform, or play a round of golf on the 18-hole Peter Dye golf course. Harvest honey at the on-site apiary and lavender field, or splurge on massages in the full-service Spa Aiyana. The main lodge is a slick, contemporary haven with Brazilian walnut floors, custom woodwork, and floor-to-ceiling windows that frame stunning valley views. Rooms have cathedral ceilings, travertine fireplaces, and large decks. For the ultimate in privacy, book a “treehouse” suite in a secluded oak grove, where your outdoor living room comes with a hanging sofa swing, a fireplace, and a soaking tub. The River Ranch center is a giant playground with a pool, a children’s splash zone, boccie courts, and a fitness center with TRX suspension training. Many of the ingredients used in the resort’s main restaurant come from a 2-acre organic garden on-site. Pros: stunning natural setting; tons of activities; state-of-the-art amenities. Cons: must drive several miles to shops and nightlife; pricey. | Rooms from: $335 | 1 Old Ranch Rd. | Carmel | 831/625–9500 | carmelvalleyranch.com | 181 suites | No meals.
FAMILY | Quail Lodge & Golf Club.
$$$ | HOTEL | A sprawling collection of ranch-style buildings on 850 acres of meadows, fairways, and lakes, Quail Lodge offers luxury rooms and outdoor activities at surprisingly affordable rates. In a former incarnation a hangout for Frank Sinatra and other celebs, the site was spruced up (to the tune of $28 million) and reemerged in 2013 as a casual, family-friendly enclave with swimming pools, a boccie court, a 9-hole putting green, nature trails, and conference rooms for business presentations, movie nights, and special events. Rooms are decorated with natural fabrics, wooden furnishings, and Spanish accents. All rooms have decks or patios, plasma TVs, and spacious bathrooms with deep soaking tubs and separate showers. Most suites and some guest rooms have fireplaces. Breakfast, included in the room rate, is served by the fireplace in the lobby building. Pros: on the golf course; on-site restaurant. Cons: extra fees for athletic passes and some services; 5 miles from the beach and Carmel Valley Village. | Rooms from: $195 | 8205 Valley Greens Dr. | Carmel | 831/624–2888, 866/675–1101 reservations | www.quaillodge.com | 77 rooms, 16 suites | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Stonepine Estate Resort.
$$$$ | RESORT | Set on 330 pastoral acres, the former estate of the Crocker banking family has been converted to a luxurious inn. The oak-paneled main château holds eight elegantly furnished rooms and suites, and a dining room for guests (nonguests can also dine here by reservation). The property’s “cottages” are equally opulent, each with its own luxurious identity. The Hermes House, for instance, has four fireplaces and a 27-foot-high living-room ceiling. Fresh flowers, afternoon tea, and evening champagne are offered daily. Pros: supremely exclusive. Cons: difficult to get a reservation; far from the coast. | Rooms from: $300 | 150 E. Carmel Valley Rd. | 831/659–2245 | www.stonepineestate.com | 10 rooms, 2 suites, 3 cottages | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Golf
Quail Lodge & Golf Club.
Robert Muir Graves designed this championship semiprivate 18-hole course next to Quail Lodge that provides challenging play for golfers of all skill levels. The course, which incorporates five lakes, edges the Carmel River. For the most part flat, the walkable course is well maintained, with stunning views, lush fairways, and ultrasmooth greens. | 8000 Valley Greens Dr. | Carmel | 831/620–8808 golf shop, 831/620–8866 club concierge | www.quaillodge.com | $175 Apr.–Oct., $150 Nov.–Mar. | 18 holes, 6500 yards, par 71.
Rancho Cañada Golf Club.
With two 18-hole courses at reasonable rates, this public facility is a local favorite. The gently rolling fairways crisscross the Carmel River, and views of the tree-studded Santa Lucia Mountains appear from nearly every vantage point. | 4860 Carmel Valley Rd., 1 mile east of Hwy. 1 | Carmel | 831/624–0111, 800/536–9459 | ranchocanada.com | $70 | East Course: 18 holes, 6125 yards, par 71; West Course: 18 holes, 6357 yards, par 71.
Spa
Fodor’s Choice | Refuge.
At this co-ed, European-style center on 2 serene acres you can recharge without breaking the bank. Heat up in the eucalyptus steam room or cedar sauna, plunge into cold pools, and relax indoors in zero-gravity chairs or outdoors in Adirondack chairs around fire pits. Repeat the cycle a few times, then lounge around the thermal waterfall pools. Talk is not allowed, and bathing suits are required. | 27300 Rancho San Carlos Rd., south off Carmel Valley Rd. | Carmel | 831/620–7360 | refuge.com | $44 | Daily 10–10 | $109 50-min massage (includes Refuge admission), $12 robe rental, hot tubs (outdoor), sauna, steam room. Services: Aromatherapy, hydrotherapy, massage.
Pebble Beach
Off North San Antonio Avenue in Carmel-by-the-Sea or off Sunset Drive in Pacific Grove.
In 1919 the Pacific Improvement Company acquired 18,000 acres of prime land on the Monterey Peninsula, including the entire Pebble Beach coastal region and much of Pacific Grove. Pebble Beach Golf Links and The Lodge at Pebble Beach opened the same year, and the private enclave evolved into a world-class golf destination with three posh lodges, five golf courses, and some of the West Coast’s ritziest homes.
Getting Here and Around
If you drive south from Monterey on Highway 1, exit at 17-Mile Drive/Sunset Drive in Pacific Grove to find the northern entrance gate. Coming from Carmel, exit at Ocean Avenue and follow the road almost to the beach; turn right on North San Antonio Avenue to the Carmel Gate. You can also enter through the Highway 1 Gate off Highway 68. Monterey–Salinas Transit buses provide regular service in and around Pebble Beach.
Exploring
Fodor’s Choice | 17-Mile Drive.
Primordial nature resides in quiet harmony with palatial, mostly Spanish Mission–style estates along 17-Mile Drive, which winds through an 8,400-acre microcosm of the Pebble Beach coastal landscape. Dotting the drive are rare Monterey cypresses, trees so gnarled and twisted that Robert Louis Stevenson described them as “ghosts fleeing before the wind.” The most famous of these is the Lone Cypress. Other highlights include Bird Rock and Seal Rock, home to harbor seals, sea lions, cormorants, and pelicans and other sea creatures and birds, and the Crocker Marble Palace, inspired by a Byzantine castle and easily identifiable by its dozens of marble arches.
Enter 17-Mile Drive at the Highway 1 Gate, at Highway 68; the Carmel Gate, off North San Antonio Avenue; the Pacific Grove Gate, off Sunset Drive; S.F.B. Morse Gate, Morse Drive off Highway 68; and Country Club Gate, at Congress Avenue and Forest Lodge Road. TIP If you spend $30 or more on dining or shopping in Pebble Beach and show a receipt upon exiting, you’ll receive a refund off the drive’s $10 per car fee. | Highway 1 Gate,17-Mile Dr., west of Hwy. 1 and Hwy. 68 intersection | $10 per car, free for bicyclists.
The Lone Cypress.
The most-photographed tree along 17-Mile Drive is the weather-sculpted Lone Cypress, which grows out of a precipitous outcropping above the waves about 1½ miles up the road from Pebble Beach Golf Links. You can’t walk out to the tree, but you can stop for a view of it at a small parking area off the road.
Where to Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Casa Palmero.
$$$$ | RESORT | This exclusive boutique hotel evokes a stately Mediterranean villa. The rooms are decorated with sumptuous fabrics and fine art, and each one has a wood-burning fireplace and heated flooring; some rooms have private outdoor patios with in-ground whirlpools. A European-style breakfast is served in-room, and complimentary cocktail service is offered each evening in the main hall and library. The adjacent Spa at Pebble Beach is state-of-the-art, and guests have the use of all facilities at the Lodge at Pebble Beach and the Inn at Spanish Bay. Pros: ultimate in pampering; sumptuous decor; more private than sister resorts; right on the golf course. Cons: pricey; may be too posh for some. | Rooms from: $910 | 1518 Cypress Dr. | 831/622–6650, 800/654–9300 | www.pebblebeach.com | 20 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.
The Inn at Spanish Bay.
$$$$ | RESORT | This resort sprawls across a breathtaking stretch of shoreline, and has lush, 600-square-foot rooms. Pèppoli restaurant ($$$$), which serves Tuscan cuisine, overlooks the coast and the golf links; Roy’s Restaurant ($$$–$$$$) serves more casual and innovative Hawaiian-Asian fare. The inn’s guests have privileges at The Lodge at Pebble Beach and the Spa at Pebble Beach, which are under the same management. Pros: attentive service; many amenities; spectacular views. Cons: huge hotel; 4 miles from other Pebble Beach Resorts facilities. | Rooms from: $650 | 2700 17-Mile Dr. | 831/647–7500, 800/654–9300 | www.pebblebeach.com | 252 rooms, 17 suites.
The Lodge at Pebble Beach.
$$$$ | RESORT | Most rooms have wood-burning fireplaces and many have wonderful ocean views at this circa-1919 resort. The golf course, tennis club, and equestrian center are posh. Overlooking the 18th green, the Stillwater Bar & Grill ($$$$) serves expertly prepared contemporary seafood. Downstairs, also overlooking the 18th hole, the Bench ($$$) specializes in wood-fired pizzas. Guests here also have privileges at The Inn at Spanish Bay and The Spa at Pebble Beach. Pros: world-class golf; borders the ocean and fairways; fabulous facilities. Cons: some rooms are on the small side; very pricey. | Rooms from: $765 | 1700 17-Mile Dr. | 831/624–3811, 800/654–9300 | www.pebblebeach.com | 142 rooms, 19 suites | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Golf
Links at Spanish Bay.
This course, which hugs a choice stretch of shoreline, was designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr., Tom Watson, and Sandy Tatum in the rugged manner of traditional Scottish links, with sand dunes and coastal marshes interspersed among the greens. A bagpiper signals the course’s closing each day. TIP Nonguests of the Pebble Beach Resorts can reserve tee times up to two months in advance. | 17-Mile Dr., north end | 800/654–9300 | www.pebblebeach.com | $270 | 18 holes, 6821 yards, par 72.
Fodor’s Choice | Pebble Beach Golf Links.
Each February, show-business celebrities and golf pros team up at this course, the main site of the glamorous AT&T Pebble Beach National Pro-Am tournament. On most days the rest of the year, tee times are available to guests of the Pebble Beach Resorts who book a minimum two-night stay. Nonguests can reserve a tee time only one day in advance on a space-available basis; resort guests can reserve up to 18 months in advance. | 17-Mile Dr., near The Lodge at Pebble Beach | 800/654–9300 | www.pebblebeach.com | $495 | 18 holes, 6828 yards, par 72.
Peter Hay.
The only 9-hole, par-3 course on the Monterey Peninsula open to the public, Peter Hay attracts golfers of all skill levels. It’s an ideal place for warm-ups, practicing short games, and for those who don’t have time to play 18 holes. | 17-Mile Dr. and Portola Rd. | 831/622–8723 | www.pebblebeach.com | $30 | 9 holes, 725 yards, par 27.
Poppy Hills.
An 18-hole course designed in 1986 by Robert Trent Jones Jr., Poppy Hills reopened in 2014 after a yearlong renovation that Jones supervised. Each hole has been restored to its natural elevation along the forest floor, and all 18 greens have been rebuilt with bent grass. Individuals may reserve up to a month in advance. Chef Johnny De Vivo grows and sources organic ingredients that inspire the menus at the course’s restaurant. TIP Poppy Hills, owned by a golfing nonprofit, represents good value for this area. | 3200 Lopez Rd., at 17-Mile Dr. | 831/622–8239 | poppyhillsgolf.com | $210 | 18 holes, 7002 yards, par 73.5.
Spyglass Hill.
With three holes rated among the toughest on the PGA tour, Spyglass Hill, designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr. and Jr., challenges golfers with its varied terrain but rewards them with glorious views. The first five holes border the Pacific, and the other 13 reach deep into the Del Monte Forest. Reservations are essential and may be made up to one month in advance (18 months for resort guests). | Stevenson Dr. and Spyglass Hill Rd. | 800/654–9300 | www.pebblebeach.com | $385 | 18 holes, 6960 yards, par 72.
Horseback Riding
Pebble Beach Equestrian Center.
The center offers guided trail rides along the beach and through 26 miles of bridle trails in the Del Monte Forest. The center also hosts world-class equestrian shows and events. | 3300 Portola Rd. | 831/624–2756 | www.pebblebeach.com | From $65.
Pacific Grove
3 miles north of Carmel-by-the-Sea.
This picturesque town, which began as a summer retreat for church groups more than a century ago, recalls its prim and proper Victorian heritage in its host of tiny board-and-batten cottages and stately mansions. However, long before the church groups flocked here the area received thousands of annual pilgrims—in the form of bright orange-and-black monarch butterflies. They still come, migrating south from Canada and the Pacific Northwest to take residence in pine and eucalyptus groves from October through March. In Butterfly Town USA, as Pacific Grove is known, the sight of a mass of butterflies hanging from the branches like a long, fluttering veil is unforgettable.
A prime way to enjoy Pacific Grove is to walk or bicycle the 3 miles of city-owned shoreline along Ocean View Boulevard, a cliff-top area landscaped with native plants and dotted with benches meant for sitting and gazing at the sea. You can spot many types of birds here, including the web-footed cormorants that crowd the massive rocks rising out of the surf. Two Victorians of note along Ocean View are the Queen Anne–style Green Gables, at No. 301—erected in 1888, it’s now an inn—and the 1909 Pryor House, at No. 429, a massive, shingled, private residence with a leaded- and beveled-glass doorway.
Getting Here and Around
Reach Pacific Grove via Highway 68 off Highway 1, just south of Monterey. From Cannery Row in Monterey, head north until the road merges with Ocean Boulevard and follow it along the coast. MST buses travel within Pacific Grove and surrounding towns.
Exploring
FAMILY | Lovers Point Park.
The coastal views are gorgeous from this waterfront park whose sheltered beach has a children’s pool and a picnic area. The main lawn has a volleyball court and a snack bar. | Ocean View Blvd. northwest of Forest Ave. | 831/648–5730.
FAMILY | Monarch Grove Sanctuary.
The sanctuary is a reliable spot for viewing monarch butterflies between October and March. TIP The best time to visit is between noon and 3 pm. | 250 Ridge Rd., off Lighthouse Ave. | www.pgmuseum.org/monarch-viewing.
Pacific Grove Museum of Natural History.
The museum, a good source for the latest information about monarch butterflies, has permanent exhibitions about the butterflies, birds of Monterey County, biodiversity, and plants. There’s a native plant garden, and a display documents life in Pacific Grove’s 19th-century Chinese fishing village. | 165 Forest Ave., at Central Ave. | 831/648–5716 | pgmuseum.org | $9, free last Sat. of the month | Tues.–Sun. 10–5.
FAMILY | Point Pinos Lighthouse.
At this 1855 structure, the West Coast’s oldest continuously operating lighthouse, you can learn about the lighting and foghorn operations and wander through a small museum containing U.S. Coast Guard memorabilia. | Asilomar Ave., between Lighthouse Ave. and Del Monte Blvd. | 831/648–3176 | pointpinoslighthouse.org | $2 | Thurs.–Mon. 1–4.
Beaches
Asilomar State Beach.
A beautiful coastal area, Asilomar State Beach stretches between Point Pinos and the Del Monte Forest. The 100 acres of dunes, tidal pools, and pocket-size beaches form one of the region’s richest areas for marine life—including surfers, who migrate here most winter mornings. Leashed dogs are allowed on the beach. Amenities: none. Best For: sunrise; sunset; surfing; walking. | Sunset Dr. and Asilomar Ave. | 831/646–6440 | www.parks.ca.gov.
Where to Eat
Beach House.
$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Patrons of this blufftop perch sip classic cocktails, sample California fare, and watch the otters frolic on Lovers Point Beach below. Standouts among the appetizers include the crispy shrimp—tossed in a creamy, spicy sauce—and oysters Rockefeller on ciabatta crostini. Among the entrées worth a try are pan-roasted duck breast with brandy-persimmon wild rice, bacon-wrapped meat loaf, and crab-stuffed sole topped with saffron cream. The sunset discounts between 4 and 6 (reservations recommended) are a great value. TIP For the best views of the beach and bay, sit on the heated outdoor patio. | Average main: $21 | 620 Ocean View Blvd. | 831/375–2345 | beachhousepg.com | No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Fandango.
$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | The menu here is mostly Mediterranean and southern French, with such dishes as osso buco and paella. The decor follows suit: stone walls and country furniture lend the restaurant the earthy feel of a European farmhouse. This is where locals come when they want to have a big dinner with friends, drink wine, have fun, and generally feel at home. | Average main: $28 | 223 17th St., south of Lighthouse Ave. | 831/372–3456 | fandangorestaurant.com.
Fifi’s Bistro Café.
$$ | FRENCH | Candlelight and music fill this small bistro known for its generous wine pours and French cuisine. The menu ranges from escargots to sand dabs sautéed in lemon beurre blanc to steak frites (french fries); lunches here are an exceptional value, as are the prix-fixe dinner specials offered from Sunday through Thursday. | Average main: $22 | 1188 Forest Ave. | 831/372–5325 | www.fifisbistrocafe.com | Reservations essential | No lunch Sat.
Fishwife.
$$ | SEAFOOD | Fresh fish with a Latin accent makes this a favorite of locals for lunch or a casual dinner. Standards are the sea garden salads topped with your choice of fish and the fried seafood plates. Diners with large appetites appreciate the fisherman’s bowls—fresh fish served with rice, black beans, spicy cabbage, salsa, vegetables, and crispy tortilla strips. | Average main: $22 | 1996½ Sunset Dr., at Asilomar Blvd. | 831/375–7107 | fishwife.com.
Joe Rombi’s La Mia Cucina.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Pasta, fish, steaks, and chops are the specialties at this modern trattoria, the best in town for Italian food. The look is spare and clean, with colorful antique wine posters decorating the white walls. Next door, the affiliated La Piccola Casa serves breakfast (baked goods) and lunch daily, plus early dinner from Wednesday through Sunday. | Average main: $23 | 208 17th St., at Lighthouse Ave. | 831/373–2416 | lamiacucinaristorante.com | Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Passionfish.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | South American artwork and artifacts decorate Passionfish, and Latin and Asian flavors infuse the dishes. Chef Ted Walter shops at local farmers’ markets several times a week to find the best produce, fish, and meat available, then pairs it with creative sauces. The menu might include sea scallops with a caper, raisin, and walnut relish, or banana walnut–bread pudding with honey-ginger ice cream. | Average main: $24 | 701 Lighthouse Ave., at Congress Ave. | 831/655–3311 | passionfish.net | No lunch.
Peppers Mexicali Cafe.
$$ | MEXICAN | This cheerful white-walled storefront serves traditional dishes from Mexico and Latin America, with an emphasis on fresh seafood. Excellent red and green salsas are made throughout the day, and there’s a large selection of beers, along with fresh lime margaritas. | Average main: $16 | 170 Forest Ave., between Lighthouse and Central Aves. | 831/373–6892 | peppersmexicalicafe.com | Closed Tues. No lunch Sun.
Red House Café.
$$ | AMERICAN | When it’s nice out, sun pours through the big windows of this cozy restaurant and across tables on the porch; when fog rolls in, the fireplace is lit. The American menu changes with the seasons but grilled lamb chops atop mashed potatoes are often on offer for dinner, and a grilled calamari steak might be served for lunch, either in a salad or as part of a sandwich. Breakfast on weekends is a local favorite. | Average main: $21 | 662 Lighthouse Ave., at 19th St. | 831/643–1060 | redhousecafe.com | No dinner Mon.
Taste Café and Bistro.
$$ | AMERICAN | Grilled marinated rabbit, roasted half chicken, filet mignon, and other meats are the focus at Taste, which serves hearty European-inspired food in a casual, open-kitchen setting. | Average main: $21 | 1199 Forest Ave., at Prescott La. | 831/655–0324 | tastecafebistro.com | Closed Sun. and Mon.
Where to Stay
Asilomar Conference Grounds.
$$$ | RESORT | On 107 acres in a state park, Asilomar stands among evergreen woods on the edge of a wild beach. Thirteen of the 30 buildings at the former YWCA retreat were designed by the celebrated California architect Julia Morgan between 1913 and 1928. The complex mostly serves groups and conferences, and a stay here may bring back fond memories of summer camp: there are games in the social hall, campfires outside, and paved paths between the buildings. Thankfully, the rooms are tasteful and modern, if simple. The general public can book individual rooms up to six months in ad | Rooms from: $190 | 800 Asilomar Ave. | 831/372–8016, 888/635–5310 | visitasilomar.com | 312 rooms.
Gosby House Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Though in the town center, this turreted butter-yellow Queen Anne Victorian has an informal feel. Florals, ruffles, and lace make the rooms rather country-grandma; the two most private rooms, which have fireplaces, balconies, and whirlpool tubs, are in the rear carriage house. Homemade cookies, sodas, and evening wine and hors d’oeuvres are complimentary. A buffet breakfast is served in the parlor or garden. Pros: peaceful; homey; within walking distance of shops and restaurants. Cons: too frilly for some; area is busy during the day. | Rooms from: $120 | 643 Lighthouse Ave. | 831/375–1287, 800/527–8828 | gosbyhouseinn.com | 22 rooms, 21 with bath | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Green Gables Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | Stained-glass windows and ornate interior details compete with spectacular ocean views at this Queen Anne–style mansion. Rooms in a carriage house perched on a hill out back are larger, have more modern amenities, and afford more privacy, but rooms in the main house have more charm. Afternoon wine and cheese are served in the parlor. Pros: exceptional views; impeccable attention to historic detail. Cons: some rooms are small; thin walls. | Rooms from: $155 | 301 Ocean View Blvd. | 831/375–2095, 800/722–1774 | www.greengablesinnpg.com | 10 rooms, 7 with bath; 1 suite | Breakfast.
Martine Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | The glassed-in parlor and many guest rooms at this 1899 Mediterranean-style villa have stunning ocean views. Thoughtful details such as robes and rocking chairs create an ambience of luxury and comfort. The inn is furnished with exquisite antiques, and the owner’s collection of classic race cars is on display in the patio area. Lavish breakfasts—and winemaker dinners of up to 12 courses—are served on lace-clad tables set with china, crystal, and silver. Because of the fragility of the antiques, the inn is not suitable for children, except in the two-bedroom family suite. Pros: romantic; exquisite antiques; fancy breakfast; ocean views. Cons: not child-friendly; sits on a busy thoroughfare. | Rooms from: $209 | 255 Ocean View Blvd. | 831/373–3388, 800/852–5588 | martineinn.com | 25 rooms | Breakfast.
Sports and the Outdoors
Golf
Pacific Grove Golf Links.
One of the best golf values in the region, the course here has spectacular ocean views on its links-style back nine, which borders 17-Mile Drive. Jack Neville designed this section in 1960. Golfers with a sense of history will appreciate that H. Chandler Egan, a giant of early-20th-century course architecture, designed the front nine. Tee times may be reserved up to 60 days in advance. | 77 Asilomar Ave. | 831/648–5775 | playpacificgrove.com | $46–$68 | 18 holes, 5800 yards, par 70.
Tennis
Morris Dill Tennis Courts.
These municipal courts are available for public play for a small hourly fee. The pro shop here rents rackets and offers lessons. | 515 Junipero Ave. | 831/648–5729.
Shopping
American Tin Cannery.
The outlet and specialty shops at this indoor complex carry designer clothing, jewelry, accessories, and home-decorating items at discounts between 25% and 65%. | 125 Ocean View Blvd. | 831/372–1442 | americantincannery.com.