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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planning
Updated by Michele Bigley, Christine Ciarmello, Denise Leto, Fiona Parrott, and Jerry James Stone
On a 46½-square-mile strip of land between San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean, San Francisco has charms great and small. Residents cherish their city for the same reasons visitors do: the proximity to the bay, rows of Victorian homes clinging precariously to the hillsides, the sun setting behind the Golden Gate Bridge, the world-class cuisine. Locals and visitors alike spend hours exploring downtown, Chinatown, North Beach, the northern and western waterfronts, and Golden Gate Park, along with colorful neighborhoods like the Haight, the Mission murals, and the Castro.
The city’s attraction, though, goes much deeper than its alluring physical space, from the diversity of its neighborhoods to its free-spirited tolerance. Take all these things together and you’ll understand why many San Franciscans—despite the dizzying cost of living and the chilly summers—can’t imagine calling any place else home.
You won’t want to miss the City by the Bay’s highlights, whether it’s a cable car ride over Nob Hill; a walk down the Filbert Street Steps; gazing at the thundering Pacific from the cliffs of Lincoln Park; cheering the San Francisco Giants to beat L.A. in lively AT&T Park; or eating freshly shucked oysters at the Ferry Building. San Francisco is a beautiful metropolis packed with diverse wonders that inspire at every turn.
Top Reasons to Go
The bay: It’s hard not to gasp as you catch sight of sunlight dancing on the water when you crest a hill, or watch the Golden Gate Bridge vanish and reemerge in the summer fog.
The food: San Franciscans are serious about what they eat, and with good reason. Home to some of the nation’s best chefs, top restaurants, and finest local produce, it’s hard not to eat well here.
The shopping: Shopaholics visiting the city will not be disappointed: San Francisco is packed with browsing destinations, everything from quirky boutiques to massive malls.
The good life: A laid-back atmosphere, beautiful surroundings, and oodles of cultural, culinary, and aesthetic pleasures . . . if you spend too much time here, you might not leave.
The great outdoors: From Golden Gate Park to sidewalk cafés in North Beach, San Franciscans relish their outdoor spaces.
Getting Oriented
San Francisco is a compact city; just 46.7 square miles. Essentially a tightly packed cluster of extremely diverse neighborhoods, the city dearly rewards walking. The areas that most visitors cover are easy (and safe) to reach on foot, but many have steep—make that steep—hills.
What’s Where
Union Square and Chinatown. Union Square has hotels, public transportation, and shopping; walking through Chinatown is like visiting a bustling street in Beijing.
SoMa and Civic Center. SoMa is anchored by SFMOMA and Yerba Buena Gardens; the city’s performing arts venues are in Civic Center.
Nob Hill and Russian Hill. Nob Hill is old-money San Francisco; Russian Hill’s steep streets have excellent eateries and shopping.
North Beach. The city’s small Italian neighborhood makes even locals feel as if they’re on holiday.
On the Waterfront. Wandering the shops and attractions of Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39, and Ghirardelli Square, the only locals you’ll meet will be the ones with visitors in tow.
The Marina and the Presidio. The Marina has trendy boutiques, restaurants, and cafés; the wooded Presidio offers great views of the Golden Gate Bridge.
Golden Gate Park and the Western Shoreline. San Francisco’s 1,000-acre backyard has sports fields, windmills, museums, and gardens; the windswept Western Shoreline stretches for miles.
The Haight, the Castro, and Noe Valley. After you’ve seen the blockbuster sights, come to these neighborhoods to see where the city’s heart beats.
The Mission. When the sun sets, people descend on the Mission for destination restaurants, excellent bargain-price ethnic eateries, and the hippest bar scene around.
Pacific Heights and Japantown. Pacific Heights has some of the city’s most opulent real estate; Japantown is packed with authentic Japanese shops and restaurants.
Planning
When to Go
You can visit San Francisco comfortably any time of year. Possibly the best time is September and October, when the city’s summerlike weather brings outdoor concerts and festivals. The climate here always feels Mediterranean and moderate—with a foggy, sometimes chilly bite. The temperature rarely drops below 40°F, and anything warmer than 80°F is considered a heat wave. Be prepared for rain in winter, especially December and January. Winds off the ocean can add to the chill factor. That old joke about summer in San Francisco feeling like winter is true at heart, but once you move inland, it gets warmer. (And some locals swear that the thermostat has inched up in recent years.)
Getting Here and Around
Air Travel
The major gateway to San Francisco is San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 15 miles south of the city. It’s off U.S. 101 near Millbrae and San Bruno. Oakland International Airport (OAK) is across the bay, not much farther away from downtown San Francisco (via I–80 east and I–880 south), but rush-hour traffic on the Bay Bridge may lengthen travel times considerably. San Jose International Airport (SJC) is about 40 miles south of San Francisco; travel time depends largely on traffic flow, but plan on an hour and a half with moderate traffic.
Airports
San Francisco International Airport (SFO) | McDonnell and Link Rds. | 800/435–9736, 650/821–8211 | www.flysfo.com.
Oakland International Airport (OAK) | 1 Airport Dr., | Oakland, California, United States | 510/563–3300 | www.flyoakland.com.
San Jose International Airport (SJC) | 1701 Airport Blvd., | San Jose, California, United States | 408/392–3600 | www.flysanjose.com.
Airport Transfers
American Airporter. | 415/202–0733 | www.americanairporter.com.
BayPorter Express. | 415/467–1800, 510/864–4000 | www.bayporter.com.
Caltrain. | 800/660–4287 | www.caltrain.com.
East Bay Express Airporter. | 877/526–0304 | www.eastbaytransportation.com.
GO Lorrie’s Airport Shuttle. | 415/334–9000 | www.gosfovan.com.
Marin Airporter. | 415/461–4222 | www.marinairporter.com.
Marin Door to Door. | 415/457–2717 | www.marindoortodoor.com.
SamTrans. | 800/660–4287 | www.samtrans.com.
South and East Bay Airport Shuttle. | 800/548–4664 | www.southandeastbayairportshuttle.com.
SuperShuttle. | 800/258–3826 | www.supershuttle.com.
BART Travel
BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) trains, which run until midnight, travel under the bay via tunnel to connect San Francisco with Oakland, Berkeley, and other cities and towns beyond. Within San Francisco, stations are limited to downtown, the Mission, and a couple of outlying neighborhoods.
Trains travel frequently from early morning until evening on weekdays. After 8 pm weekdays and on weekends there’s often a 20-minute wait between trains on the same line. Trains also travel south from San Francisco as far as Millbrae. BART trains connect downtown San Francisco to San Francisco International Airport; the ride costs $8.25.
Intracity San Francisco fares are $1.85; intercity fares are $3.80 to $11.65. BART bases its ticket prices on miles traveled and doesn’t offer price breaks by zone. The easy-to-read maps posted in BART stations list fares based on destination, radiating out from your starting point of the current station.
Contact
Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) | 415/989–2278 | www.bart.gov.
Boat and Ferry Travel
Several ferry lines run out of San Francisco. Blue & Gold Fleet operates a number of routes, including service to Sausalito ($11 one-way) and Tiburon ($11 one-way). Tickets are sold at Pier 41 (between Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39), where the boats depart. Alcatraz Cruises, owned by Hornblower Yachts, operates the ferries to Alcatraz Island ($30 including audio tour and National Park Service ranger-led programs) from Pier 33, about a half-mile east of Fisherman’s Wharf ($3 shuttle buses serve several area hotels and other locations). Boats leave 10 times a day (14 times a day in summer), and the journey itself takes 30 minutes. Allow roughly 2½ hours for a round-trip jaunt. Golden Gate Ferry runs daily to and from Sausalito and Larkspur ($10.75 and $10 one-way), leaving from Pier 1, behind the San Francisco Ferry Building. The Alameda/Oakland Ferry operates daily between Alameda’s Main Street Ferry Building, Oakland’s Jack London Square, and San Francisco’s Pier 41 and the Ferry Building ($6.25 one-way); some ferries go only to Pier 41 or the Ferry Building, so ask when you board. Purchase tickets on board.
Ferry Lines
Alameda/Oakland Ferry. | 510/522–3300 | sanfranciscobayferry.com.
Alcatraz Cruises. | 415/981–7625 | www.alcatrazcruises.com.
Blue & Gold Fleet. | 415/705–8200 | www.blueandgoldfleet.com.
Golden Gate Ferry. | 415/923–2000 | www.goldengateferry.org.
San Francisco Ferry Building. | 1 Ferry Bldg., at foot of Market St. on Embarcadero | 415/983–8030 | www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com.
Cable Car Travel
Don’t miss the sensation of moving up and down some of San Francisco’s steepest hills in a clattering cable car. Jump aboard as it pauses at a designated stop, and wedge yourself into any available space. Then just hold on.
The fare (for one direction) is $6 (Muni Passport holders only pay a $1 supplement). You can buy tickets on board (exact change isn’t necessary) or at the kiosks at the cable-car turnarounds at Hyde and Beach streets and at Powell and Market streets.
The heavily traveled Powell–Mason and Powell–Hyde lines begin at Powell and Market streets near Union Square and terminate at Fisherman’s Wharf; lines for these routes can be long, especially in summer. The California Street line runs east and west from Market and California streets to Van Ness Avenue; there’s often no wait to board this route.
Car Travel
Driving in San Francisco can be a challenge because of the one-way streets, snarly traffic, and steep hills. The first two elements can be frustrating enough, but those hills are tough for unfamiliar drivers. TIP Remember to curb your wheels when parking on hills—turn wheels away from the curb when facing uphill, toward the curb when facing downhill. You can get a ticket if you don’t do this.
Muni Travel
The San Francisco Municipal Railway, or Muni, operates light-rail vehicles, the historic F-line streetcars along Fisherman’s Wharf and Market Street, trolley buses, and the world-famous cable cars. Light rail travels along Market Street to the Mission District and Noe Valley (J line), the Ingleside District (K line), and the Sunset District (L, M, and N lines); during peak hours (weekdays, 6 am–9 am and 3 pm–7 pm) the J line continues around the Embarcadero to the Caltrain station at 4th and King streets. The T-line light rail runs from the Castro, down Market Street, around the Embarcadero, and south past Hunters Point and Monster Park to Sunnydale Avenue and Bayshore Boulevard. Muni provides 24-hour service on select lines to all areas of the city.
On buses and streetcars the fare is $2.25. Exact change is required, and dollar bills are accepted in the fare boxes. For all Muni vehicles other than cable cars, 90-minute transfers are issued free upon request at the time the fare is paid. These are valid for two additional transfers in any direction. Cable cars cost $6 and include no transfers.
One-day ($15), three-day ($23), and seven-day ($29) Passports valid on the entire Muni system can be purchased at several outlets, including the cable-car ticket booth at Powell and Market streets and the visitor information center downstairs in Hallidie Plaza. A monthly ticket is available for $80, and can be used on all Muni lines (including cable cars) and on BART within city limits. The San Francisco CityPass ($86), a discount ticket booklet to several major city attractions, also covers all Muni travel for seven consecutive days.
The San Francisco Municipal Transit and Street Map ($5) is a useful guide to the extensive transportation system. You can buy the map at most bookstores and at the San Francisco Visitor Information Center, on the lower level of Hallidie Plaza at Powell and Market streets.
Muni Info
San Francisco Municipal Railway System (Muni) | 311, 415/701–3000 | www.sfmta.com.
Taxi Travel
Taxi service is notoriously bad in San Francisco, and hailing a cab can be frustratingly difficult in some parts of the city, especially on weekends. Popular nightspots such as the Mission, SoMa, North Beach, the Haight, and the Castro have a lot of cabs but a lot of people looking for taxis, too. Midweek, and during the day, you shouldn’t have much of a problem—unless it’s raining. In a pinch, hotel taxi stands are an option, as is calling for a pickup. But be forewarned: taxi companies frequently don’t answer the phone in peak periods. The absolute worst time to find a taxi is Friday afternoon and evening; plan well ahead, and if you’re going to the airport, make a reservation or book a shuttle instead. Most taxi companies take reservations for airport and out-of-town runs but not in-town rides.
Taxis in San Francisco charge $3.50 for the first 0.5 mile (one of the highest base rates in the United States), 55¢ for each additional 0.5 mile, and 55¢ per minute in stalled traffic; a $2 surcharge is added for trips to the airport. There’s no charge for additional passengers; there’s no surcharge for luggage. For trips outside city limits, multiply the metered rate by 1.5; tolls and tip are extra.
Alternatively, you can download the Uber or Lyft apps to participate in the city’s user-generated car services. You basically join the group and pay via a credit card on your app, then order a car to pick you up from your destination and deliver you anywhere in the city. Rates vary by company, but are generally comparable to taxi rates.
Taxi Companies
DeSoto Cab. | 415/970–1300 | www.desotosf.com.
Luxor Cab. | 415/282–4141 | www.luxorcab.com.
Veteran’s Taxicab. | 415/552–1300.
Yellow Cab. | 415/333–3333 | yellowcabsf.com.
Complaints
San Francisco Police Department Taxi Complaints. | 415/701–4400.
Train Travel
Amtrak trains travel to the Bay Area from some cities in California and the United States. San Francisco doesn’t have an Amtrak train station but does have an Amtrak bus station, at the Ferry Building, from which shuttle buses transport passengers to trains in Emeryville, just over the Bay Bridge. Shuttle buses also connect the Emeryville train station with downtown Oakland, the Caltrain station, and other points in downtown San Francisco. You can buy a California Rail Pass, which gives you seven days of travel in a 21-day period for $159.
Caltrain connects San Francisco to Palo Alto, San Jose, Santa Clara, and many smaller cities en route. In San Francisco, trains leave from the main depot, at 4th and Townsend streets, and a rail-side stop at 22nd and Pennsylvania streets. One-way fares are $3.25 to $13.25, depending on the number of zones through which you travel; tickets are valid for four hours after purchase time. A ticket is $7.25 from San Francisco to Palo Alto, at least $9.25 to San Jose. You can also buy a day pass ($6.50–$26.50) for unlimited travel in a 24-hour period. It’s worth waiting for an express train for trips that last from 1 to 1¾ hours. On weekdays, trains depart three or four times per hour during the morning and evening, twice per hour during daytime noncommute hours, and as little as once per hour in the evening. Weekend trains run once per hour. The system shuts down at midnight. There are no onboard ticket sales. You must buy tickets before boarding the train or risk paying a $250 fine for fare evasion.
Train Contacts
Amtrak. | 800/872–7245 | www.amtrak.com.
Caltrain. | 800/660–4287 | www.caltrain.com.
San Francisco Caltrain station. | 700 4th St., at King St. | 800/660–4287.
Visitor Information
The San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau can mail you brochures, maps, and events listings. Once in town, you can stop by the bureau’s info center near Union Square.
Contacts
San Francisco Visitor Information Center. | Hallidie Plaza, lower level,900 Market St., at Powell St., Union Sq. | 415/391–2000 TDD | www.sanfrancisco.travel.