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Union Square and Chinatown | SoMa | Hayes Valley | Financial District | Nob Hil and Russian Hill | Van Ness/Polk | North Beach | On the Waterfront | Cow Hollow | The Castro | The Mission | Japantown | Western Addition | The Richmond
Make no mistake, San Francisco is one of America’s top food cities. Some of the biggest landmarks are restaurants; and for some visitors, chefs like Daniel Patterson are just as big a draw as Alcatraz. In fact, on a Saturday, the Ferry Building—a temple to local eating—may attract more visitors than the Golden Gate Bridge: cheeses, breads, “salty pig parts,” homemade delicacies, and sensory-perfect vegetables and fruits attract rabidly dedicated aficionados. You see, San Franciscans are a little loco about their edibles. If you ask them what their favorite season is, don’t be surprised if they respond, “tomato season.”
Some renowned restaurants are booked weeks or even months in advance. But you can get lucky at the last minute if you’re flexible—and friendly. Most restaurants keep a few tables open for walk-ins and VIPs. Show up for dinner early (5:30 pm) or late (after 9 pm) and politely inquire about any last-minute vacancies or cancellations.
Katana-Ya.
$ | JAPANESE | From the moment it opens, there’s a line in front of this hole-in-the-wall ramen house across from the American Conservatory Theater. Hand-drawn pictures of specials punctuate a colorful interior with too-close tables and a couple of stools around the bar. There’s nothing fancy, but the ramen is among the most authentic in town, and the place stays open late (till 2 am). Add a couple sushi rolls and gyozas to your order and be on your way. | Average main: $8 | 430 Geary St., Union Sq. | 415/771–1280 | Reservations not accepted.
FAMILY | R&G Lounge.
$$ | CHINESE | Cravings for salt-and-pepper Dungeness crab are deliciously sated at this bright, three-level Cantonese eatery that excels in the crustacean. A menu with photographs will help you sort through other HK specialties, including Peking duck and shrimp-stuffed tofu. Much of the seafood is fresh from the tank. Expect a packed dining room during peak hours. Dim sum is also served. TIP Crab portions are easily splittable by three, especially when accompanied by appetizers and another dish. | Average main: $16 | 631 Kearny St., Chinatown | 415/982–7877.
Fodor’s Choice | Benu.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Chef Corey Lee’s modern Californian Mecca is a must-stop for those who hop from city to city, collecting memorable meals. Each dish in the 15- to 19-course tasting menu is a marvel of textures and flavors, presented meticulously enough to make this one of only two restaurants in the city to earn three Michelin stars (the other is Saison). Lee, formerly of French Laundry, handles Asian ingredients—a thousand-year-old quail egg, xiao long bao dumplings, and sea cucumber—with a Western touch. You may find dishes like Hokkaido sea cucumber stuffed with lobster, pork belly, eggplant, fermented pepper or eel. An extremely professional staff is behind the quick pacing and on-point wine pairings. Bare-wood tables and a minimalistic interior guarantees concentration on the plate. The tasting menu is mandatory. | Average main: $195 | 22 Hawthorne St., SoMa | 415/685–4860 | www.benusf.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
The Cavalier.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | This Anna Weinberg–Jennifer Puccio production is no different than the two others (Marlowe and Park Tavern): insanely popular and loud, yet deliciously comforting. Chef Puccio gives British Pub grub a Nor Cal makeover (fresh ingredients rightly cooked). The darkly painted space, with high ceilings and large arched windows, is decorated with stuffed animal heads, horses, and clusters of paintings imparting a decidedly British temperament that attracts the clubby tech crowd. The gin-based cocktails pair well with starters such as deviled quail eggs, brussels sprouts chips, and hearty mains like the Sunday chicken—bathed in a bacon-mustard jus. | Average main: $23 | Hotel Zetta,360 Jessie St., SoMa | 415/321–6000 | thecavaliersf.com.
Citizen’s Band.
$$ | DINER | This fresh take on the classic American diner always seems to pack its coveted 40 seats. The draw: one of the city’s tastiest versions of mac and cheese (topped with onion rings), and fried chicken with red-eye gravy. Other “fine diner” dishes—among them seasonal salads and pan-roasted rock cod—further reveal chef-owner Chris Beerman’s experience in upscale restaurants. The vibe is very SoMa, with an edgy and eclectic crowd that can match the rock-and-roll playing (sometimes loudly) on the stereo or at the club next door, but the well-chosen wine list keeps things elevated. The restaurant shares restrooms with the rock club next door. | Average main: $22 | 1198 Folsom St., at 8th St., SoMa | 415/556–4901 | www.citizensbandsf.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Marlowe.
$$$ | AMERICAN | A new location doubles the number of diners who can get a piece of chef Jennifer Puccio’s hearty American bistro fare, like roasted chicken, steak tartare, and one of the city’s best burgers. In hip SoMa, near the main Caltrain station, this spot has a lighter, airy touch with white penny tile floors, marble countertops, and butcher paper emblazoned with the day’s specials—including cocktails like the tequila-based la cuchilla. An outdoor patio is jam-packed in good weather. Chief pastry chef Emily Luchetti takes care of the kitchen’s sweet side, and makes us wonder why no one has thought of a farmers’ market sundae till now. TIP Avoid the crowds and order a burger off the bar menu. | Average main: $24 | 500 Brannan St., SoMa | 415/777–1413 | www.marlowesf.com | No lunch weekends.
Fodor’s Choice | Trou Normand.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Walk through the door of the 1925 Timothy Pflueger-designed building and it’s like entering the art deco period, greeted as you are with soaring ceilings, marble, and an enormous painted illustration of a nude. Welcome to the Roaring 2010s. Thad Vogler’s latest endeavor (Bar Agricole was the first) delivers on a fun boozy evening, introducing the French tradition known as trou normand—drinking a brandy between courses to settle your stomach. There are also about 40 house-cured salumi and charcuterie. Arancini, seasonal salads and pickles, and mains of pasta and roasted black cod round out offerings. An enclosed patio reads like a Parisian garden conservatory. Unfortunately, noise is a real issue out there, since it’s an after-work escape. TIP A small café within the restaurant serves up espresso and breakfast sandwiches in the mornings. | Average main: $25 | 140 New Montgomery St., SoMa | 415/975–0876 | www.trounormandsf.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun.
Nojo.
$$ | JAPANESE | For a little bonhomie before the symphony, this buzzy yakitori and izakaya spot serves stellar Japanese pub food, made from Bay Area ingredients. The menu is divided into items “on a stick” and “not on a stick.” Much of the “stick” is yakitori (grilled chicken), like chicken skin with matcha sea salt and tsukune (a chicken meatball) with egg yolk sauce. Not on a stick is the savory, rich custard, chawan mushi, with Dungeness crabmeat and shiitake mushrooms. Seating is at bamboo tables in a mod-Japanese-slash-San Franciscan setting with windows overlooking Hayes Valley’s main thoroughfare of Franklin. There are 20 sakes by the glass. TIP Nojo requires a credit card number to hold a reservation. | Average main: $20 | 231 Franklin St., Hayes Valley | 415/896–4587 | www.nojosf.com | Closed Tues. No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Rich Table.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | To leave co-chefs Evan and Sarah Rich’s popular place without ordering the porcini doughnuts, served with a raclette béchamel sauce, is a dining sin. That and the sardines in chip format are the two most popular bites, and you should wander to the mains half of the menu for one of the half-dozen pastas or proteins, like a seared black cod with crunchy skin. The room’s weathered-wood wallboards repurposed from a Northern California sawmill give it a homey vibe. There’s a nice selection of wines by the glass and artisanal cocktails. All seats are by reservation only and are not an easy acquisition. TIP Ten bar seats are available for walk-ins. | Average main: $30 | 199 Gough St., at Oak St., Hayes Valley | 415/355–9085 | www.richtablesf.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Zuni Café.
$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | After one bite of Zuni’s succulent brick-oven-roasted whole chicken with Tuscan bread salad, you’ll understand why the two-floor café is a perennial star. At the long copper bar a disparate mix of patrons communes over oysters on the half shell and cocktails and wine. Nearly as famous as the chicken are the Caesar salad with house-cured anchovies and the chocolatey flourless gâteau Victoire. The most cheerful spot to sit is at the tip of the “pyramid window” near the bar, easier to score if you plan a late lunch. Zuni’s world-famous chef-owner, Judy Rodgers, passed away in 2013, but thanks to her strong guidance, the food remains outstanding. | Average main: $28 | 1658 Market St., Hayes Valley | 415/552–2522 | www.zunicafe.com | Closed Mon.
Bocadillos.
$$ | SPANISH | The name means “sandwiches,” but that’s only half the story here. You’ll find a baker’s dozen bocadillos at lunchtime: plump rolls (pick two for $12) filled with everything from Serrano ham to Catalan sausage with arugula. At night are two-dozen choices of tapas, including roasted Monterey Bay squid, bavette empanadas, and corn fritters with house-made chorizo. There are ample wines by the glass but also a few sherries. A youngish crowd typically piles into the redbrick dining space, whose aesthetic includes wire chairs and small, square light fixtures. TIP Breakfast is served here, too. | Average main: $18 | 710 Montgomery St., Financial District | 415/982–2622 | www.bocasf.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.
Michael Mina.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | The refined flagship outpost for this acclaimed chef remains a treat, with luxurious renditions of shabu-shabu (boiled beef) and lobster potpie with Meyer lemons and smoked potatoes. There’s a prix fixe–only menu for dinner, while lunch is the time to sample the mastery of Mina at half the price. | Average main: $38 | 252 California St., Financial District | 415/397–9222 | www.michaelmina.net | No lunch weekends |
Wexler’s.
$$ | BARBECUE | Four words: bourbon banana cream pie. Of course, there’s a slew of tempting barbecue items that threaten whether you’ll have room at the end of the meal. The interior is chic minimalist, with a couple of red chandeliers to liven up the place. Barbecue traditionalists should come with an open mind. The crispy Scotch eggs, fork-tender short ribs, and smoked wings (with Point Reyes blue cheese dressing) wander into more creative territory—chef Charlie Kleinman earns accolades. | Average main: $22 | 568 Sacramento St., Financial District | 415/983–0102 | www.wexlerssf.com | Closed Sun. No dinner Mon. No lunch weekends.
FAMILY | Yank Sing.
$$ | CHINESE | This granddaddy of teahouses in a quiet location on Stevenson Street—there’s also a big, brassy branch in the Rincon Center—serves some of San Francisco’s best dim sum to office workers on weekdays and boisterous families on weekends. The several dozen varieties prepared daily include both the classic (steamed pork buns, shrimp dumplings, egg custard tartlets) and the creative (scallion-skewered prawns tied with bacon, lobster and tobiko roe dumplings, basil seafood dumplings). The tab can rise quickly, so pace yourself. The take-out counter makes a meal on the run a satisfying compromise when office duties—or touring—won’t wait. TIP The Shanghai soup dumplings are perfection. | Average main: $16 | 49 Stevenson St., Financial District | 415/541–4949 | www.yanksing.com | No dinner.
Best San Francisco Restaurants for Kids
Kids can be fussy eaters, and parents can be, too. Fortunately, there are plenty of excellent options in the city that will satisfy both.
Barney’s Gourmet Burgers. With locations all over the Bay Area, including this one not far from Fort Mason, this chain caters to older kids and their parents with mile-high burgers and giant salads. But Barney’s doesn’t forget “kids under 8,” who have their own menu featuring a burger, an all-beef frank, and chicken strips. And they don’t forget parents, offering a nice selection of wines by the glass and beer on tap. | 3344 Steiner St., near Union St. | 415/563–0307 | www.barneyshamburgers.com.
City View Restaurant. Nearby in Chinatown, City View Restaurant serves a varied selection of dim sum, with tasty pork buns for kids and more-exotic fare for adults. | 662 Commercial St., near Kearny St. | 415/398–2838.
The Ferry Building on the Embarcadero has plenty of kid-friendly options, from Mijita Cocina Mexicana, which has its own kids’ menu, to Gott’s Roadside, for burgers, shakes, and more. (And the outdoor access can help keep the little ones entertained.)
Park Chalet. Finally, both kids and adults love to be by the ocean, and the Park Chalet, hidden behind the two-story Beach Chalet, offers pizza, mac and cheese, sticky ribs, and a big banana split. | 1000 Great Hwy., at Fulton St. | 415/386–8439.
Rosamunde Sausage Grill. In Lower Haight, the small Rosamunde Sausage Grill serves just that—a slew of different sausages, from Polish to duck to Weisswurst (Bavarian veal). You get your choice of two toppings, like grilled onions, sauerkraut, and chili, and since there are only six stools, plan on take-out. TIP Head to nearby Duboce Park, with its cute playground. | 545 Haight St., between Steiner and Fillmore Sts. | 415/437–6851.
Swan Oyster Depot.
$$ | TAPAS | Half fish market and half diner, this small, slim, family-run seafood operation, open since 1912, has no tables, just a narrow marble counter with about a dozen-and-a-half stools. Most people come in to buy perfectly fresh salmon, halibut, crabs, and other seafood to take home. Everyone else hops onto one of the rickety stools to enjoy a dozen oysters, other shellfish, or a bowl of clam chowder—the only hot food served. It’s all served up with a side of big personality from the jovial folks behind the counter who make you feel like a regular. TIP Come before 11 am or after 2 pm to avoid a long wait, and bring a full wallet: old-school Swan only takes cash. | Average main: $18 | 1517 Polk St., Nob Hill | 415/673–1101 | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | Closed Sun. No dinner.
Zarzuela.
Full-blooded Spaniards swear by the paella at this tiny Old World–style bistro, complete with matador art on the wall, not far from the crookedest street in the world (Lombard). Also not to be missed is the homemade sangria—or the goat cheese baked in tomato sauce or poached octopus, all prepared by chef Lucas Gasco, who grew up in Madrid. Arched windows overlook Hyde Street and the cable cars rolling by. Riding the Powell–Hyde line to and from dinner adds to the romance of the evening and saves you the nightmare of parking in this neighborhood. | Average main: $21 | 2000 Hyde St., Russian Hill | 415/346–0800 | Reservations not accepted | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Acquerello.
$$$$ | ITALIAN | Devotees of chef-owner Suzette Gresham-Tognetti’s high-end but soulful Italian cooking have swooned for years over her Parmesan budino (pudding). Classics pepper the menu but there are also some cutting-edge touches, techniques, and flavors. Dinners are prix-fixe, with three, four, or five courses and at least four choices within each course. Co-owner Giancarlo Paterlini oversees the service and his son Gianpaolo presides over the roughly 1,900-bottle list of Italian wines. The room, in a former chapel, with vaulted ceiling and terra-cotta and pale-ocher palette, is refined but never stuffy. This true San Francisco dining gem is worth every penny. | Average main: $87 | 1722 Sacramento St., Van Ness/Polk | 415/567–5432 | www.acquerello.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Coi.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Chef Daniel Patterson is one of the biggest names in the food circuit, and his destination restaurant shows you, via an eight-course tasting, just how he’s gotten a golden reputation. Highly seasonal ingredients are obsessively sourced—some of it foraged. One example: the Dungeness crab raviolo with sheep sorrel and butter crab broth. A more casual front dining room is followed by a formal space, with natural linens, soft lighting, and handcrafted pottery. Patterson is always brining, curing, and innovating, including Coi’s pay-in-advance, nonrefundable ticketing system for reservations. TIP A vegetarian tasting menu is available with advance notice. Couldn’t get a reservation? Call. Tables do open up. | Average main: $195 | 373 Broadway, North Beach | 415/393–9000 | www.coirestaurant.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. No lunch.
FAMILY | Tony’s Pizza Napoletana.
$$ | PIZZA | Locals hotly debate who makes the city’s best pizza, and for many Tony Gemignani takes the prize. His reputation extends well beyond the city: at the World Pizza Cup in Naples he eclipsed the Italians for the title of World Champion Pizza Maker. The dough at his restaurant is flavorful and fired just right, with multiple wood-burning ovens in his casual, modern pizzeria turning out many different pies—the famed Neapolitan-style Margherita, but also Sicilian, Romana, and Detroit styles. Salads, antipasti, homemade pastas, and calzone, round out the menu. You can grab a slice next door. TIP If you’re dining with kids, ask for some pizza dough to keep them entertained. | Average main: $20 | 1570 Stockton St., North Beach | 415/835–9888 | www.tonyspizzanapoletana.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Tues.
Gary Danko.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | In high season plan on reserving two months ahead at Chef Danko’s namesake restaurant—his legion of fans typically keep the reservation book full. The cost of a meal is pegged to the number of courses, from three to five, and the menu spans a classic yet Californian style that changes seasonally. Dishes might include risotto with lobster and rock shrimp, or herb-crusted lamb loin. A diet-destroying chocolate soufflé with two sauces is usually among the desserts. The wine list is the size of a small-town phone book, and the banquette-lined rooms, with beautiful wood floors and stunning (but restrained) floral arrangements, are as memorable as the food and impeccable service. | Average main: $76 | 800 N. Point St., Fisherman’s Wharf | 415/749–2060 | www.garydanko.com | Reservations essential | Jacket required | No lunch.
Boulevard.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | Two local restaurant celebrities—chef Nancy Oakes and designer Pat Kuleto—are behind this high-profile, high-priced eatery in the 1889 Audiffred Building, a Parisian look-alike that survived the 1906 quake. The Belle-Époque interior and sophisticated American food with a French accent attract well-dressed locals and flush out-of-towners. Count on generous portions of mains such as grilled king salmon, Maine lobster ravioli, and a wood-grilled pork prime rib chop. Save room for one of the dynamite desserts, among them the dark-chocolate brioche custard. There’s counter seating for folks too hungry to wait for a table, and an American Wagyu beef burger with Cowgirl Creamery cheese at lunchtime. | Average main: $36 | 1 Mission St., Embarcadero | 415/543–6084 | www.boulevardrestaurant.com | Reservations essential | No lunch weekends.
Coqueta.
$$$ | SPANISH | With its Embarcadero perch, Bay Bridge views, and stellar Spanish tapas, celebrity chef Michael Chiarello’s San Francisco debut has been an instant hit. Equal parts rustic and chic, his dining room’s bold decor—stained wooden beams, cowhide rugs, marble bar—sends out the visual message that Chiarello is on top of his game, and it’s fun to see him mingling with diners as they enjoy toothpicked pintxos (small snacks) such as quail egg with Serrano ham. The real draws, though, are the inventive cocktails, luscious paella, and dazzling variation on the cut of pork secreto Ibérico (Iberian secret). The desserts are also small bites, so you’ll likely have room to end your experience on a sweet note. TIP Book well in advance for dinner. | Average main: $30 | Pier 5, near Broadway, Embarcadero | 415/704–8866 | coquetasf.com | Reservations essential | No lunch Mon.
Hog Island Oyster Company.
$$ | SEAFOOD | A thriving oyster farm north of San Francisco in Tomales Bay serves up its harvest at this newly expanded raw bar and restaurant in the Ferry Building. Devotees come here for impeccably fresh oysters and clams on the half shell. Other mollusk-centered options include a first-rate oyster stew, baked oysters, clam chowder, and “steamer” dishes atop of a bed of local greens. The bar also turns out one of the city’s best grilled-cheese sandwiches, made with three artisanal cheeses on artisanal bread. | Average main: $20 | Ferry Bldg., Embarcadero at Market St., Embarcadero | 415/391–7117 | www.hogislandoysters.com | Reservations not accepted.
La Mar Cebicheria Peruana.
$$$ | PERUVIAN | Right on the water’s edge, this casually chic outpost, the chain’s first outside Peru, imports real Peruvian flavors to San Francisco. Your waiter will start you out with a pile of potato and plantain chips with three dipping sauces, but after that you’re on your own, choosing from a long list of ceviches, can’t-miss causas (whipped potatoes topped with a choice of fish, shellfish, or vegetable salads), and everything from crisp, lightly fried fish and shellfish to soups and stews. The view of the water is especially enjoyable during lunch or a warm evening. | Average main: $25 | Pier 1½, between Washington and Jackson Sts., Embarcadero | 415/397–8880 | lamarsf.com.
Slanted Door.
$$$ | VIETNAMESE | If you’re looking for homey Vietnamese food served in a down-to-earth dining room at a decent price, don’t stop here. Celebrated chef-owner Charles Phan has mastered the upmarket, Western-accented Vietnamese menu. To showcase his cuisine, he built a big space with sleek wooden tables and chairs, a cocktail lounge, a bar, and an enviable bay view. His popular dishes include green-papaya salad, daikon rice cakes, cellophane crab noodles, chicken clay pot, and shaking beef (tender beef cubes with garlic and onion). They don’t come cheap, but they’re made with quality ingredients. TIP To avoid the midday and evening crowds, dine at the bar, drop by for afternoon tea (2:30–4:30), or visit Out the Door, Phan’s take-out counter around the corner, which is less expensive. | Average main: $29 | Ferry Bldg., Embarcadero at Market St., Embarcadero | 415/861–8032 | www.slanteddoor.com | Reservations essential.
A16.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Marina residents—and, judging from the crowds, everybody else—gravitate to this trattoria named for a highway that runs past Naples into surrounding Campania and specializing in the food from that region, done very, very well. Rustic pasta favorites such as maccaronara with ragu napoletana and house-made salted ricotta might show up on the menu, and for an entrée perhaps petrale sole with crispy black trumpet mushrooms. The pizzas are also a highlight. The selection of primarily southern Italian wines, augmented by some California vintages, supports the food perfectly, and there’s a substantial beer list. TIP The animated bar scene near the door sets the tone; for a quieter time request a table in the alcove or try for the patio. | Average main: $27 | 2355 Chestnut St., Marina | 415/771–2216 | www.a16sf.com | Reservations essential | No lunch Mon. and Tues.
Greens.
$$ | VEGETARIAN | Owned and operated by the San Francisco Zen Center, this nonprofit vegetarian restaurant gets some of its fresh produce from the center’s organic Green Gulch Farm. Despite the lack of meat, hearty dishes from chef Annie Somerville—shepherd’s pie with wild mushrooms, for example, or the vegetable brochette plate—really satisfy. An à la carte menu is offered on Sunday and weeknights, but on Saturday a four-course prix-fixe dinner is served. Floor-to-ceiling windows give diners a sweeping view of the Marina and the Golden Gate Bridge. TIP A small counter by the front door stocks sandwiches, soups, and sweets for easy takeout, open in the morning. | Average main: $19 | Bldg. A, Fort Mason, off Marina Blvd., Marina | 415/771–6222 | www.greensrestaurant.com | Reservations essential | No lunch Mon.
FAMILY | Rose’s Café.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Sleepy-headed locals turn up for the breakfast pizza of smoked ham, eggs, and fontina; poached eggs with Yukon Gold potato and mushroom hash; and soft polenta with mascarpone and jam. Midday is time for pizza with wild nettles, or linguine with clams. Evening hours find customers eating their way through more pizza and pasta, or skirt steak and a glorious roasted chicken. The ingredients are top-notch, the service is friendly, and the seating is in comfortable booths and at tables and a counter. Heaters above the outdoor tables keep things toasty when the temperature dips. TIP Expect long lines for Sunday brunch. | Average main: $27 | 2298 Union St., Cow Hollow | 415/775–2200 | www.rosescafesf.com.
Frances.
$$$ | FRENCH | Still one of the hottest tickets in town, this small space belts out a delicious bacon beignet. You come to see what chef/owner Melissa Perello will execute. Standouts on the California-French menu are the savory bavette steak, duck confit, and baked clams with bacon cream. The apple galette for dessert hits all the right notes. The space is simply designed with a limited number of tables, so it can be extraordinarily difficult to get a reservation, except at 10 pm. Service is professional and warm. | Average main: $27 | 3870 17th St., Castro | 415/621–3870 | www.frances-sf.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. No lunch.
Bar Tartine.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | An offshoot of the cultlike Tartine Bakery, this artsy space provides a way to taste the bakery’s famed (and nearly always sold-out) country loaf. Flavor-packed cuisine is eclectic, influenced by Eastern Europe, Scandinavia, and Japan with California sensibility. The menu includes many house-pickled items, tempting langos (fried potato bread), and seasonal salads such as smoked potatoes with black garlic. Chicken paprikas and fisherman’s stew are among the homey dishes. Weekend brunch is one of the city’s more distinct offerings in that category, with buckwheat blintzes, and a beef-brisket hash with celery root, parsnip, Yukon Gold potatoes, and fried eggs. | Average main: $25 | 561 Valencia St., Mission | 415/487–1600 | www.bartartine.com | Closed for lunch weekdays.
Fodor’s Choice | Central Kitchen.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Californian cuisine in all of its freshness is on display in this offshoot of Flour + Water. You might taste raw hamachi topped with fennel, or one of chef Thomas McNaughton’s famous pastas. A planked-and-concrete tea-light strung courtyard, with a retractable awning, shares space with Salumeria (a deli and larder) and Trick Dog (an energetic cocktail bar). | Average main: $30 | 3000 20th St., Mission | 415/826–7004 | www.centralkitchensf.com | No lunch weekdays.
Fodor’s Choice | Delfina.
$$$ | ITALIAN | “Irresistible.” That’s how countless die-hard fans describe Craig and Anne Stoll’s Northern Italian spot. Don’t even think about an eye roll should we recommend you order the spaghetti with plum tomatoes. It’s been dialed to perfection. If Piemontese fresh white truffles have made their way to San Francisco, you are likely to find hand-cut tagliarini dressed with butter, cream, and the pricey aromatic fungus on the menu. The panna cotta is the best in its class. Tables are squeezed into an urban interior, with hardwood floors, aluminum-top tables, and a tile bar, that seems to radiate with happiness. | Average main: $25 | 3621 18th St., Mission | 415/552–4055 | www.delfinasf.com | Reservations essential | No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Dosa on Valencia.
$$ | INDIAN | If you like Indian food but crave more than chicken tikka masala and naan, this cheerful temple of South Indian cuisine is for you. Aside from the large, thin savory namesake pancake, the kitchen also prepares curries, uttapam (open-face pancakes), and various starters, breads, rice dishes, and chutneys. Dosa fillings range from traditional potatoes, onions, and cashews to spinach and fennel stems. Tamil lamb curry with fennel and tomatoes and poppy seed prawns are popular, as are the Indian street-food additions, among them vada pav (a vegetarian slider). A second, splashier branch is in Japantown. | Average main: $18 | 995 Valencia St., at 21st St., Mission | 415/642–3672 | www.dosasf.com | No lunch weekdays.
Flour + Water.
$$$ | ITALIAN | Diners used to flood into this hot spot for the blistery thin-crust Neapolitan pizza, but these days it’s the pasta that holds attention. The grand experience here is the seven-course pasta-tasting menu (extra for wine pairings). The homemade mustard tagliatelle with smoked lamb’s tongue is surprisingly zippy, with lemon zest lifting and extracting flavors. A whimsical interior includes tabletop beakers as candleholders, a moth-wing wall mural, and a cabinet of taxidermy in the bathroom. Expect a noisy, boisterous scene. Trying to get a reservation at Flour + Water is one of the longest-running jokes in town. Your best bet is to come when the doors open. | Average main: $26 | 2401 Harrison St., Mission | 415/826–7000 | www.flourandwater.com | No lunch.
Lazy Bear.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | There’s no end to the buzz of chef David Barzelay’s pop-up turned permanent restaurant, or the quest for a ticket to one of his modern American dinners. A reservation for the 12- to 18-course prix-fixe menu that changes monthly is required. You might see Delta crawfish, hen jus, or duck with cracklins. An ode to the Western lodge, the two-level dining room includes a modern fireplace, charred wood walls, wooden rafters and tables made of American elm. You’re basically going to a dinner party for 40, with cocktails and bites enjoyed upstairs and dinner downstairs at two communal tables. Everyone is thoughtfully given a passbook for writing notes. | Average main: $120 | 3416 19th St., Mission | 415/874–9921 | Closed Tues. and Wed. No lunch | Reservations essential | www.lazybearsf.com.
Locanda.
$$$ | ITALIAN | The owners of lauded Delfina have bestowed another culinary gift on the city. Only this time the muse for the menu is Rome. An addictive starter is pizza bianca: chewy, hot bread that holds mini puddles of olive oil and is sprinkled with sea salt. The peppery and creamy pasta, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, is a signature. A good strategy here is to double down on pastas and antipasti, then share a main. Finely made cocktails arrive at dark-wood tables on a candlelit tray, and white Heath wall tiles lend a Mission vibe. This is a busy place with the bar stools constantly occupied. | Average main: $26 | 557 Valencia St., Mission | 415/863–6800 | www.locandasf.com | No lunch.
Mission Chinese Food.
$ | CHINESE | While the setting is somewhat one-star, the food draws throngs for its wildly different and bold take on Chinese. MCF has become so popular that it now has a satellite in New York. The kitchen pumps out some fine and superfiery kung pao pastrami as well as other Chinese dishes made with quality meats and ingredients, like salt cod fried rice with mackerel confit, and braised lamb cheek with shanghai noodles. Some of the dishes spike hot (ma po tofu) while milder dishes (Westlake rice porridge) are homey and satisfying. Because of long waits, we recommend lunchtime. Many locals rely on delivery for their fix. | Average main: $14 | 2234 Mission St., Mission | 415/863–2800 | www.missionchinesefood.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Wed.
FAMILY | SanJalisco.
$ | MEXICAN | This old-time, sun-filled, colorful, family-run restaurant is a neighborhood gem, and not only because it serves breakfast all day—though the hearty chilaquiles hit the spot. On weekends, adventurous eaters may opt for birria, a spicy goat stew, or menudo, a tongue-searing soup made from tripe, calf’s foot, and hominy. The latter is a time-honored hangover cure—but don’t come expecting margaritas (though you will find beer and sangria). Bring plenty of change for the jukebox loaded with Latin hits. | Average main: $11 | 901 S. Van Ness Ave., Mission | 415/648–8383 | www.sanjalisco.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Dosa on Fillmore.
$$ | INDIAN | As soon as the large door swings open to this happening two-level space, diners are greeted with a sexy atmosphere with bright colors, a lively bar, and the smell of spices in the air. This is the second location of the popular Dosa on Valencia, but it’s definitely the glamorous younger sister, with an expanded menu and much more room. The menu entices with savory fish dishes, fall-off-the-bone pepper chicken, and papery dosas. The restaurant handles group dining often. At lunch, indulge in the Indian street-food selections, and the famed pani puri (little crisp puffs you fill with mint and tamarind water and pop all at once into your mouth). | Average main: $17 | 1700 Fillmore St., Japantown | 415/441–3672 | www.dosasf.com | No lunch Mon. and Tues.
4505 Burgers & BBQ.
$$ | BARBECUE | Those who have ever wondered how a butcher would prepare meat will find the answer in the tender brisket here. The crust is deliciously charred, and the meat flavorful, spending 18 to 24 hours in a smoker as part of a process perfected by the butcher/owners. Every plate comes with two sides, and you should choose frankaroni as one of them. Possibly the work of the devil, this is macaroni-and-cheese with pieces of hot dog . . . deep-fried. You order at the counter in this chic-hipster shack on a rapidly evolving stretch of Divis that attracts long lines, though they move quickly. Seating is mostly outside at communal picnic tables. The restaurant’s sign, “Pig N or Pig Out” truly means it. They do take-out and delivery (via Try Caviar). | Average main: $15 | 705 Divisadero, at Grove St., Western Addition | 415/231–6993.
Nopa.
$$$ | AMERICAN | This is the good-food granddaddy of the hot corridor of the same name (NoPa equals North of the Panhandle). The Cali-rustic fare includes an always winning flatbread topped with fennel sausage and caramelized onions; smoky, crisp-skin rotisserie chicken; and a juicy hamburger with thick-cut fries. This place is so lively—and high ceilings and concrete floors contribute to the noise factor—that raised voices are sometimes the only way to communicate. The weekend brunch is among the city’s best. TIP Late-night cravings can be satisfied until 1 am. | Average main: $24 | 560 Divisadero St., Western Addition | 415/864–8643 | www.nopasf.com | No lunch weekdays.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Nopalito.
$$ | MEXICAN | Those in the mood for Mexican will get some of the most authentic flavors here—and at the same time, be surprised by the creativity and fresh ingredients on the plate. All the tortillas are made from organic house-ground masa (dough), and Mexico’s peppers find their way into many of the offerings. The spicy beef empanada and succulent pork carnitas are skillfully prepared—not a goopy mess. The casual atmosphere is popular with families yet pleasing to adults lured by the well-selected tequilas. Expect a substantial wait in the evening, though you can call ahead to be put on the list. If you’re feeling truly impatient, order from the take-out window; or the second location in Inner Sunset may be less crowded. | Average main: $15 | 306 Broderick St., Western Addition | 415/437–0303 | www.nopalitosf.com.
The Progress.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Tables are coveted at this restaurant by the chef-owners of the Michelin-starred State Bird Provisions, and for good reason: the inventive dishes, marrying Californian and Japanese cuisine, are a culinary adventure served family-style. Dumplings are filled with Mt. Tam cheese and porcini, and Cali beef comes with a mustard miso-oyster sauce, all served on eye-popping ceramics. For $65 per person, tables collectively decide on six items to get off the 18-item menu (which includes three desserts). Next door to the revered State Bird Provisions and equally signless, the space is airy with soaring ceilings, a mezzanine, and exposed beams and concrete. Foodies of all ages come out in droves. TIP Nab one of the 12 bar stools, and you can forego the $65 prix-fixe menu, and order à la carte. | Average main: $65 | 1525 Fillmore St., Western Addition | 415/673–1294 | www.theprogress-sf.com | No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | State Bird Provisions.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | A reservation here is practically impossible to get, but if you do walk in and commit to a 90-plus minute wait you’ll eventually be treated to a festive parade of bites that roll around on carts dim-sum style. Choices include half-dollar-size thick, savory pancakes stuffed with sauerkraut; giant nori chips topped with hamachi, radishes, and avocados; and about 15 or so other nightly creations, often with a Japanese slant. The colorful dining room with pegboard walls has a high-school art-room vibe. The staff remains super friendly, even though they turn away dozens. TIP Get here an hour before opening and wait in line, or come at 5:30, leave your number, and the host will page you when the table is ready. | Average main: $30 | 1529 Fillmore St., Western Addition | 415/795–1272 | www.statebirdsf.com | No lunch.
Aziza.
$$ | MOROCCAN | Chef-owner Mourad Lahlou’s California-Moroccan food boasts a healthy dose of modernity that keeps locals coming back for his unique flavors and thoughtfully sourced ingredients. Diners enjoy inspired and gorgeously plated mains, ranging from squab with smoked farro to lamb shank with a kumquat glaze and cranberry couscous. Desserts here are as sophisticated as the savory dishes. Cocktail enthusiasts can choose from more than two dozen inspired drinks that use ingredients like tarragon, kaffir lime, and cumin. The attractive three-room dining area is a warm, inviting sea of tiles, arches, and candlelight. | Average main: $20 | 5800 Geary Blvd., Richmond | 415/752–2222 | www.aziza-sf.com | Closed Tues. No lunch.
Burma Superstar.
$ | ASIAN | Locals make the trek to the “Avenues” for the extraordinary tea-leaf salad, a combo of spicy, salty, crunchy, and sour that is mixed table-side, with fermented tea leaves from Burma, fried garlic, and peanuts. Another hit is the hearty vegetarian samusa soup. The modestly decorated, no-reservations restaurant is small, so lines can be long during peak times. Leave your number and wait for the call. TIP Walk a couple blocks east to B-Star, owned by the same people but lesser known and often less crowded. | Average main: $14 | 309 Clement St., Richmond | 415/387–2147 | www.burmasuperstar.com | Reservations not accepted.
FAMILY | Park Chow.
$ | AMERICAN | What do spaghetti and meatballs, Thai noodles with chicken and shrimp, salads in three sizes, and big burgers have in common? They’re all on the eclectic comfort-food menu here, and all are made with sustainable ingredients yet offered at unbeatable prices. This neighborhood standby is also known for its desserts: the fresh-baked pies and ginger cake with pumpkin ice cream are among the standouts. Kids get their own menu. In cool weather fires roar in the dining-room fireplaces; in warm weather, the outdoor tables are the place to be. There’s another Chow in the Castro neighborhood. TIP You can call ahead to put your name on the waiting list. | Average main: $13 | 1240 9th Ave., Inner Sunset | 415/665–9912 | www.chowfoodbar.com.