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Bass Lake | Oakhurst | Fish Camp | El Portal
People heading to Yosemite National Park, especially those interested in seeing the giant sequoias on the park’s south side, pass through Oakhurst and Fish Camp on Highway 41.
Bass Lake
50 miles north of Fresno via Hwy. 41 to Bass Lake Road 222.
Almost surrounded by the Sierra National Forest, Bass Lake is a warm-water reservoir whose waters can reach 80 degrees F in summer. Created by a dam on a tributary of the San Joaquin River, the lake is owned by Pacific Gas and Electric Company and is used to generate electricity as well as for recreation.
Where to Eat
Ducey’s on the Lake/Ducey’s Bar & Grill.
$$$ | AMERICAN | With elaborate chandeliers sculpted from deer antlers, the lodge-style restaurant at Ducey’s attracts boaters, locals, and tourists with its lake views and standard lamb, beef, seafood, and pasta dishes. It’s also open for breakfast: try the Bass Lake seafood omelet, huevos rancheros, or the Rice Krispies-crusted French toast. For less expensive eats, head upstairs to Ducey’s Bar & Grill for burgers, salads, tacos, and sandwiches. | Average main: $28 | Pines Resort,54432 Rd. 432 | 559/642–3121 | www.basslake.com.
Sports and the Outdoors
Bass Lake Water Sports and Marina.
This outfit on Bass Lake Reservoir, 3 miles north and 6 miles east of Oakhurst, rents ski boats, patio boats, fishing boats, canoes, tubes, and other things that float. The folks here also conduct guided fishing and scenic tours. In summer the noisy reservoir is packed shortly after it opens at 8 am (off-season hours are from 9 to 5). There’s also a shop with snacks and gifts. | 54406 Marina Dr. | Bass Lake | 559/642–3200 | www.basslakeboatrentals.com.
Oakhurst
40 miles north of Fresno.
Motels, restaurants, gas stations, and small businesses line Highway 41 in Oakhurst, the last sizeable community before Yosemite National Park and a good spot to find provisions. The park’s southern entrance is 23 miles north of Oakhurst on Highway 41.
Getting Here and Around
At the junction of highways 41 and 49, Oakhurst is about an hour’s drive north of Fresno. It’s the southern gateway to Yosemite, so many people fly into Fresno and rent a car to get here and beyond.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Yosemite Sierra Visitors Bureau. | 559/683–4636 | www.yosemitethisyear.com.
Exploring
Fresno Flats Historical Village and Park.
For a dose of colorful foothills history, make a quick stop at this engaging local museum centered around two 1870s houses. | School Rd. and Indian Springs Rd. | 559/683–6570 | www.fresnoflatsmuseum.org.
Yosemite Gateway Gallery Row.
Find out what mountain art is all about at this enclave of five galleries representing dozens of painters, sculptors, and other artists. | 40982 Hwy. 41, 1¼ mile north of Hwy. 49 | 559/683–5551 | www.yosemitegatewaygalleryrow.com | Free | Daily 10–5 (days and hrs vary for some galleries).
Where to Eat
The Branding Iron Steakhouse & Saloon.
$$$ | AMERICAN | This ranch-style restaurant near Yosemite Park’s south entrance—a sociable place for old-fashioned steak dinners—was totally renovated in 2015. Other meals here center on grass-fed burgers, seafood, lamb, and all-natural, free-range chicken. Weekend specials include tender, slow-roasted prime rib. TIP Come between 5 and 6:30 daily for twilight specials and light suppers. | Average main: $26 | Sierra Sky Ranch,50552 Road 632, off Hwy. 41 | 559/658–2644 | www.sierraskyranch.com.
Fodor’s Choice | Erna’s Elderberry House.
$$$$ | EUROPEAN | Erna Kubin-Clanin, the grande dame of Château du Sureau, created this culinary oasis, stunning for its understated elegance, gorgeous setting, and impeccable service. Earth-tone walls and wood beams accent the dining room’s high ceilings, and arched windows reflect the glow of candles. The seasonal six-course prix-fixe dinner ($108) can be paired with superb wines, with each course delivered in perfect synchronicity by the elite waitstaff. TIP Diners can also order à la carte, and a shorter bar menu is offered in the former wine cellar. | Average main: $48 | Château du Sureau,48688 Victoria La., off Hwy. 41 | 559/683–6800 | www.elderberryhouse.com | Reservations essential | No lunch Mon.–Sat.
Fodor’s Choice | South Gate Brewing Company.
$ | AMERICAN | Locals pack this family-friendly, industrial-chic restaurant to socialize and savor small-lot beers, crafted on site, along with tasty meals. The creative pub fare runs a wide gamut, from shepherd’s pie Wellington and thin-crust brick-oven pizzas to fish tacos, fish-and-chips, vegan black-bean burgers, and slow-roasted pulled-pork sandwiches. Save room for the house-made root-beer float or the brownie sundae, both topped with a scoop of locally made vanilla ice cream. When the weather’s good, musicians perform on most weekends and on some weekday evenings. | Average main: $13 | 40233 Enterprise Dr., off Hwy. 49, north of Von’s shopping center | 559/692–2739 | southgatebrewco.com.
Where to Stay
FAMILY | Best Western Plus Yosemite Gateway Inn.
$$ | HOTEL | Perched on 11 hillside acres, Oakhurst’s best motel has carefully tended landscaping and rooms with stylish contemporary furnishings and hand-painted murals of Yosemite. Pros: close to park’s southern entrance; on-site restaurant; indoor and outdoor swimming pools; frequent deer and wildlife sightings. Cons: some rooms on the small side; Internet connection can be slow. | Rooms from: $150 | 40530 Hwy. 41 | Oakhurst | 800/545–5462, 559/683–2378 | www.yosemitegatewayinn.com | 133 rooms, 16 suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Château du Sureau.
$$$$ | RESORT | You’ll feel pampered from the moment you drive through the wrought-iron gates of this fairy-tale castle. Adjacent to Erna’s Elderberry House, the inn is straight out of a children’s book. Every room is impeccably styled with European antiques, sumptuous fabrics, fresh-cut flowers, and oversize soaking tubs. Fall asleep by the glow of a crackling fire amid goose-down pillows and Italian linens, then awaken to a hearty European breakfast in the dining room. Afterward, relax with a game of chess in the piano room beneath an exquisite ceiling mural, or indulge in a treatment at the on-site day spa. Cable TV is available by request only. Pros: luxurious; great views; sumptuous spa facility. Cons: expensive; cost might not seem worth it to guests not spa-oriented. | Rooms from: $385 | 48688 Victoria La. | Oakhurst | 559/683–6860 | www.chateausureau.com | 10 rooms, 1 villa | Breakfast.
Homestead Cottages.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Set on 160 acres of rolling hills that once held a Miwok village, these cottages (the largest sleeps six) have gas fireplaces, fully equipped kitchens, and queen-size beds. Hand built by the owners out of real adobe bricks, the cottages are also stocked with soft robes, oversize towels, and paperback books. Pros: remote location; quiet setting; friendly owners. Cons: might be too quiet for some. | Rooms from: $179 | 41110 Rd. 600, 2½ miles off Hwy. 49 | Ahwahnee | 559/683–0495 | www.homesteadcottages.com | 6 cottages | Breakfast.
Sierra Sky Ranch.
$$ | HOTEL | Off Highway 41 just 10 miles south of the Yosemite National Park, this 19th-century cattle ranch near a hidden grove of giant sequoia trees provides a restful, rustic retreat. Upscale contemporary furnishings and amenities were introduced as part of a property-wide renovation in 2015, but the ranch’s historic character was preserved. Most rooms have French doors that open out onto airy porches that are ideal for unwinding on a summer evening, and guests stay connected to the modern world with cable TV and free Wi-Fi access. There’s a steak house on-site, and the swimming pool is open in summer. Heating and air-conditioning in all rooms make the ranch a four-season getaway—the stone fireplace in the Sierra Suite is a wintertime bonus. Pros: peaceful setting; historic property; full hot breakfast. Cons: some rooms on the small side; not in town. | Rooms from: $149 | 50552 Rd. 632 | Oakhurst | 559/683–8040 | www.sierraskyranch.com | 26 rooms | Breakfast.
Nightlife
Queen’s Inn Wine Bar & Beer Garden.
A combination wine bar, tasting room, and small inn, this popular hangout on a bluff above the Fresno River serves about 100 wines by the glass or flight, plus microbrews and imported beers. At the tasting room, open from Wednesday through Sunday between 11 and 5, you can sample ($5 tasting fee) Tempranillo, Pinot Gris, and other limited-production wines. | 41139 Hwy. 41, | Oakhurst | 559/683–4354 | queensinn.com | Closed Sun.–Tues.
Sports and the Outdoors
FAMILY | Zip Yosemite.
Fly through ponderosa and sugar pine trees and gaze at Fresno Dome and giant sequoias on a 1½-hour guided tour at this Sierra National Forest complex. The progressively challenging course, at elevation 5,000 feet, includes several zip lines, a suspension bridge, and daring rope lowers from 100-foot-high platforms. Participants should be at least 10 years old and weigh between 75 and 270 pounds. | Calvin Crest Retreat Center,45800 Calvin Crest Rd., 11 miles northeast of Oakhurst via Highway 41 and Sierra Sky Ranch Rd. (632) | Oakhurst | 559/642–6688 | zipyosemite.com | From $125 | Closed Dec.–Mar.
Fish Camp
14 miles north of Oakhurst.
As you climb in elevation along Highway 41 northbound, you see nothing but trees until you get to Fish Camp, where there’s a post office and general store, but no gasoline. (For gas, head 7 miles north to Wawona, in Yosemite, or 14 miles south to Oakhurst.)
Getting Here and Around
Highway 41 is the main drag here. YARTS public transit stops in Fish Camp on its route between Fresno and Yosemite Valley.
Exploring
FAMILY | Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad.
Travel back to a time when powerful steam locomotives hauled massive log trains through the Sierra. This 4-mile, narrow-gauge railroad excursion takes you near Yosemite’s south gate. There’s a moonlight special ($55), with dinner and entertainment, and you can pan for gold ($10) and visit the free museum. | 56001 Hwy. 41, 8 miles south of Yosemite | Fish Camp | 559/683–7273 | www.ymsprr.com | $22 | May–Sept., daily; Apr. and Oct., weekends and selected weekdays.
Where to Stay
Narrow Gauge Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | The well-tended rooms at this family-owned property have balconies with views of the surrounding woods and mountains. For maximum atmosphere, book a room overlooking the brook (runs in spring and early summer); for some serenity, choose a lower-level room on the edge of the forest. All the accommodations are comfortably furnished with old-fashioned accents. The restaurant, decorated with moose, bison, and other mounted heads, specializes in steaks and American fare. It’s open from late April until late October. Pros: close to Yosemite’s south entrance; nicely appointed rooms; wonderful balconies. Cons: rooms can be a bit dark; dining options are limited, especially for vegetarians. | Rooms from: $209 | 48571 Hwy. 41 | Fish Camp | 559/683–7720, 888/644–9050 | www.narrowgaugeinn.com | 26 rooms | Breakfast.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Tenaya Lodge.
$$$$ | RESORT | One of the region’s largest hotels, Tenaya Lodge is ideal for people who enjoy wilderness treks by day but prefer creature comforts at night. The buildings and giant parking lot blend in fairly well with their woodsy surroundings. The lobby lounge is striking, with high windows and sturdy beams. A $5.5 million remodeling, scheduled for completion in 2016, bestowed a fresh, contemporary feel. Wood floors and rugs brighten the hallways, and the ample rooms, done in earth tones, include upgraded baths with granite countertops and brushed-bronze fixtures. Deluxe rooms have refrigerators and other extras, and the suites have balconies. Embers, the resort’s signature restaurant, serves seasonal locavore dinners and flaming desserts at candlelit tables surrounding a double-sided fireplace. The other restaurants offer everything from continental cuisine to burgers, pizzas, and pastas. Pros: rustic setting with modern comforts; exceptional spa and exercise facility; close to Yosemite; activities for all ages. Cons: so big it can seem impersonal; pricey during summer. | Rooms from: $295 | 1122 Hwy. 41 | Fish Camp | 559/683–6555, 888/514–2167 | www.tenayalodge.com | 282 rooms, 20 suites | No meals.
Yosemite Lodging at Big Creek Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | A romantic bed-and-breakfast in a woodsy setting south of the park, the inn offers perks that place it ahead of the competition. There’s a sundeck with a Ping-Pong table, and the three guest rooms, all equipped with Blu-ray players and satellite TV and Wi-Fi access, have private balconies with creek and meadow views. Hot tip: if you’re visiting on a snowy winter’s night, ask for a room with a gas fireplace. Pros: friendly, knowledgeable innkeeper; hearty home-cooked breakfast; intimate setting. Cons: with only three rooms it books up quickly; no pets allowed. | Rooms from: $239 | 1221 Hwy. 41 | Fish Camp | 559/641–2828 | www.yosemiteinn.com | 3 rooms | Breakfast.
El Portal
14 miles west of Yosemite Valley on Hwy. 140.
The market in town is a good place to pick up provisions before you get to Yosemite. You’ll find a post office and a gas station, but not much else.
Getting Here and Around
The drive here on Highway 140 from Mariposa and, farther west, Merced, is the prettiest and gentlest (in terms of steep uphill and downhill portions) route to Yosemite National Park. Much of the road follows the Merced River in a rugged canyon. The Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System (YARTS | www.yarts.com) is a cheap and dependable way to go between Merced and Yosemite Valley; all buses stop in El Portal, where many park employees reside.
FAMILY | Evergreen Lodge at Yosemite.
$$$ | RESORT | Amid the trees near Yosemite National Park’s Hetch Hetchy entrance, this sprawling property is perfect for families. The 88-cabin complex includes a playground, an amphitheater, a movie room, a restaurant, a gift shop, a pool, and an activities desk where you sign up for more than 30 guided tours. The cabins are wood-paneled and cozy. None has a phone or television, although the lodge has a giant-screen TV and Wi-Fi. You can also stay in family tents ($90–$125). Pros: near the underrated Hetch Hetchy Valley; family atmosphere; clean cabins. Cons: not cheap; about an hour’s drive to Yosemite Valley. | Rooms from: $240 | 33160 Evergreen Rd., 33 miles north of El Portal, 30 miles east of town of Groveland | Groveland | 209/379–2606 | www.evergreenlodge.com | 88 cabins.
Yosemite Cedar Lodge.
$$ | B&B/INN | Rooms at this motel-style lodge in the pines range from standard double queen beds to romantic accommodations with whirlpool tubs for two, and there are two three-bedroom apartments with private pool and hot tub. The lobby is filled with teddy bears. Pros: clean; comparatively affordable; nearby general store. Cons: could use a modest overall update. | Rooms from: $149 | 9966 Hwy. 140 | 209/379–2612, 888/742–4371 | www.stayyosemitecedarlodge.com | 188 rooms, 22 suites, 2 apartments.
Yosemite View Lodge.
$$$ | HOTEL | Two miles outside Yosemite’s Arch Rock entrance, this modern property is the most convenient place to spend the night if you are unable to secure lodgings in the valley. All rooms have good views, but the ones with balconies that overlook the Merced River are the best. You have your choice of four pools here, one of which is indoors. The restaurant cooks up an impressive breakfast buffet, and there are both a restaurant and a pizza joint on-site (the latter open only from April through October). Many of the rooms, however, come with kitchenettes. Pros: great location; good views; lots of on-site amenities. Cons: somewhat pricey; it can be a challenge to get the dates you want. | Rooms from: $189 | 11136 Hwy. 140 | El Portal | 209/379–2681, 888/742–4371 | www.stayyosemiteviewlodge.com | 313 rooms, 22 suites.