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McArthur–Burney Falls Memorial State Park | Alturas | Susanville | Lassen Volcanic National Park | Chester | Quincy
The Far North’s primitive, rugged backcountry is arguably full of more natural wonders than any other region in California.
McArthur–Burney Falls Memorial State Park
Hwy. 89, 52 miles southeast of Mt. Shasta and 41 miles north of Lassen Volcanic National Park.
One of the most spectacular sights in the Far North is Burney Falls, where countless ribbon-like streams pour from moss-covered crevices. You have to travel forested back roads to reach this gem, but the park’s beauty is well worth the trek.
Getting Here and Around
To see some stunning falls, head east off Interstate 5 on Highway 89 at Mt. Shasta. The drive is 52 miles. From Interstate 5 in Redding, head east 55 miles on Highway 299 to connect with Highway 89; follow signs 6 miles to the park. From Alturas, head west on Highway 299 for about 86 miles and hook up with Highway 89.
Exploring
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | McArthur–Burney Falls Memorial State Park.
Just inside the park’s southern boundary, Burney Creek wells up from the ground and divides into two falls that cascade over a 129-foot cliff into a pool below. Countless ribbonlike streams pour from hidden moss-covered crevices; resident bald eagles are frequently seen soaring overhead. You can walk a self-guided nature trail that descends to the foot of the falls, which Theodore Roosevelt—according to legend—called “the eighth wonder of the world.” On warm days, swim at Lake Britton; lounge on the beach; rent motorboats, paddleboats, and canoes; or relax at one of the campsites or picnic areas. The camp store is open from mid-April to mid-October. | 24898 Hwy. 89, 6 miles north of Hwy. 299 | Burney | 530/335–2777 | www.parks.ca.gov | $8 per vehicle, day use.
Alturas
86 miles northeast of McArthur–Burney Falls Memorial State Park on Hwy. 299.
Alturas is the county seat and largest town in Modoc County. The Dorris family arrived in the area in 1874, built Dorris Bridge over the Pit River, and later opened a small wayside stop for travelers. As in the past, travelers today come to see eagles and other wildlife, the Modoc National Forest, and active geothermal areas.
Getting Here and Around
To get to Alturas from Susanville, take Main Street/Highway 36 south for about 4 miles; turn left at U.S. 395 and stay on that highway for 99 miles. From Redding, take the Lake Blvd./299E exit off Interstate 5, head east and stay on Highway 299 for 140 miles. Sage Stage buses serve Alturas from Redding and Susanville.
Essentials
Bus Information
Modoc County Sage Stage. | 530/233–6410 | www.sagestage.com.
Visitor Information
Alturas Chamber of Commerce. | 600 S. Main St. | 530/233–4434 | www.alturaschamber.org.
Exploring
Modoc National Forest.
Encompassing 1.6 million acres in the northeast corner of California, Modoc National Forest protects 300 species of wildlife, including Rocky Mountain elk, wild horses, mule deer, and pronghorn antelope. In spring and fall, watch for migratory waterfowl as they make their way along the Pacific Flyway above the forest. The numerous campsites within the forest are all available on a “first come, first served” basis. | Park Headquarters,225 W. 8th St. | 530/233–5811 | www.fs.usda.gov/modoc.
Modoc National Wildlife Refuge.
The 7,021-acre Modoc National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1961 to protect migratory waterfowl. You might see Canada geese, sandhill cranes, mallards, teal, wigeon, pintail, white pelicans, cormorants, and snowy egrets. The refuge is open for hiking, bird-watching, and photography, but one area is set aside for hunters. Regulations vary according to season. | 5364 County Rd. 115, U.S. 395, 1½ miles south of Alturas, left on Rd. 56, then right on Rd. 115 | 530/233–3572 | www.fws.gov/refuge/modoc | Free | Daily dawn–dusk.
Where to Eat
Brass Rail.
$$ | SPANISH | Prix-fixe dinners at this authentic Basque restaurant include wine, homemade bread, soup, salad, side dishes, coffee, and ice cream. Steak, lamb chops, fried chicken, shrimp, and scallops are among the best entrée selections. A lounge with a full bar adjoins the dining area. | Average main: $22 | 395 Lakeview Hwy. | 530/233–2906 | Closed Mon.
Susanville
104 miles south of Alturas via U.S. 395; 65 miles east of Lassen Volcanic National Park via Highway 36.
Susanville, established as a trading post in 1854, tells the tale of its rich history through murals painted on buildings in the historic uptown area. You can take a self-guided tour around the original buildings and stop for a bite at one of the restaurants now housed within them. If you’d rather work up a sweat, you can hit the Bizz Johnson Trail and Eagle Lake recreation areas just outside town.
Getting Here and Around
U.S. 395 connects Susanville and Alturas, about a 100-mile trip. From Red Bluff, take Interstate 5’s Highway 36E/Fairgrounds exit and drive east for about 3 miles; turn left at Highway 36E and continue through the mountains for 103 miles. Lassen Rural Bus serves Susanville Monday through Saturday, and surrounding areas on weekdays only.
Essentials
Bus Information
Lassen Rural Bus. | 530/252–7433 | www.lassentransportation.com/a/Lassen-Rural-Bus-LRB.php.
Visitor Information
Lassen County Chamber of Commerce. | 75 N. Weatherlow St., off Main St. | 530/257–4323 | lassencountychamber.com.
Exploring
Bizz Johnson Trail.
This trail follows a defunct line of the Southern Pacific Railroad for 25 miles. Known to locals as the Bizz, the trail is open for hikers, walkers, mountain bikers, horseback riders, and cross-country skiers. It skirts the Susan River through a scenic landscape of canyons, bridges, and forests abundant with wildlife. | Trailhead, old railroad depot,601 Richmond Rd., near N. Railroad Ave. | 530/257–0456 | www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/eaglelake/bizztrail.html | Free.
Eagle Lake.
Anglers travel great distances to fish the waters of this large lake where the trout is prized for its size and fighting ability. Surrounded by high desert to the north and alpine forests to the south, Eagle Lake is also popular for picnicking, hiking, boating, waterskiing and windsurfing, and bird-watching—ospreys, pelicans, and many other waterfowl visit the lake. On land you might see mule deer, small mammals, and even pronghorn antelope—and be sure to watch for bald-eagle nesting sites. | 16 miles north of Susanville, Eagle Lake Rd. off Hwy. 139 | 530/257–0456 for Eagle Lake Recreation Area, 530/825–3454 for Eagle Lake Marina | www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/eaglelake.html.
Where to Eat and Stay
Mazatlan Grill.
$ | MEXICAN | The sauces are prepared on-site in this friendly, family-run restaurant and lounge, with a full bar, which serves lunch and dinner daily. The dining room is simple and tidy, with comfortable upholstered booths. The extensive menu offers authentic, inexpensive Mexican fare ranging from fajitas and enchiladas to a vegetarian burrito. | Average main: $10 | 1535 Main St., at Park St. | 530/257–1800.
Best Western Trailside Inn Susanville.
$ | HOTEL | This large, business-friendly motel is in the heart of Susanville but only a quick drive from the area’s recreational sites. Some rooms have wet bars. Pros: central location; seasonal pool; free breakfast. Cons: Main Street location can be noisy. | Rooms from: $109 | 2785 Main St., near Russell St. | 530/257–4123 | www.bestwesterncalifornia.com/hotels/best-western-trailside-inn-susanville | 85 rooms | Breakfast.
High Country Inn.
$ | HOTEL | Rooms are spacious in this colonial-style motel on the eastern edge of town. A complimentary breakfast is provided; more extensive dining is available next door at a pizza restaurant and at fast food options within walking distance. Pros: great mountain views; seasonal heated pool. Cons: lots of traffic in the area. | Rooms from: $93 | 3015 Riverside Dr., at Main St. | 530/257–3450, 866/454–4566 | www.high-country-inn.com | 66 rooms | Breakfast.
Lassen Volcanic National Park
45 miles east of Redding on Hwy. 44; 48 miles east of Red Bluff on Hwy. 36.
Fissures and fumaroles burble and belch as reminders of Lassen Peak’s dramatic eruption a century ago. Four different types of volcanoes form part of this park’s fascinating geothermal landscape.
Getting Here and Around
Whether coming from the west or the east, reach the park’s southern entrance via Highway 36E, and turn onto Highway 89 for a short drive to the park. The northwest entrance is reached via Highway 44 from Redding and Susanville. No buses serve the area.
Exploring
Fodor’s Choice | Lassen Scenic Byway.
This 185-mile scenic drive begins in Chester and loops through the forests, volcanic peaks, geothermal springs, and lava fields of Lassen National Forest and Lassen Volcanic National Park, providing an all-day excursion into dramatic wilderness. From Chester, take Route 36 west to Route 89 north through the park, then Route 44 east to Route 36 west back to Chester. Parts of the road are inaccessible in winter. | 800/427–7623 CA Highway info service, 530/595–4480 Lassen Park visitor center | www.nps.gov/lavo.
Fodor’s Choice | Lassen Volcanic National Park.
A dormant plug dome, Lassen Peak is the focus of Lassen Volcanic National Park’s 165.6 square miles of distinctive landscape. The peak began erupting in May 1914, sending pumice, rock, and snow thundering down the mountain and gas and hot ash billowing into the atmosphere. Lassen’s most spectacular outburst occurred in 1915 when it blew a cloud of ash some 7 miles into the stratosphere. The resulting mudflow destroyed vegetation for miles in some directions; the evidence is still visible today, especially in the Devastated Area. The volcano finally came to rest in 1921. Today fumaroles, mud pots, lakes, and bubbling hot springs create a fascinating but dangerous landscape that can be viewed throughout the park, especially via a hiked descent into Bumpass Hell. Because of its significance as a volcanic landscape, Lassen became a national park in 1916. Several volcanoes—the largest of which is now Lassen Peak—have been active in the area for roughly 600,000 years. The four types of volcanoes found in the world are represented in the park, including shield (Prospect Peak), plug dome (Lassen Peak), cinder cone (Cinder Cone), and composite (Brokeoff Volcano). Lassen Park Road (the continuation of Highway 89 within the park) and 150 miles of hiking trails provide access to many of these volcanic wonders. TIP Caution is key here: heed signs that warn visitors to stay on the trails and railed boardwalks to avoid falling into boiling water or through dangerous thin-crusted areas of the park. Although the park is closed to cars in winter, it’s usually open to intrepid cross-country skiers and snowshoers. The Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center is open year-round with closures on Monday and Tuesday from November 1 to March 31. | Mineral | www.nps.gov/lavo | $20 per car, $10 per person if not in a car.
FAMILY | Sulphur Works Thermal Area.
Proof of Lassen Peak’s volatility becomes evident shortly after you enter the park at the southwest entrance. Sidewalks skirt boiling springs and sulphur-emitting steam vents. This area is usually the last site to close because of snow. | Lassen Park Rd., 1 mile from the southwest entrance ranger station | www.nps.gov/lavo.
Where to Stay
Drakesbad Guest Ranch.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | With propane furnaces and kerosene lamps, everything about this century-old property harks back to a simpler time. Meals, casual during the day and rather elegant in the evening, are included in the rates; nonguests also may call ahead and reserve meals. Reservations are hard to secure at this popular spot, but they may be made up to two years in advance via the ranch’s website. Pros: a true back-to-nature experience; great for family adventures. Cons: accessible only via a partially paved road leading out of Chester. | Rooms from: $348 | End of Warner Valley Rd. | Chester | 866/999–0914 | www.drakesbad.com | 19 rooms | Closed mid-Oct.–early June | All meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
Hiking
Fodor’s Choice | Bumpass Hell Trail.
Boiling springs, steam vents, and mud pots highlight this 3-mile round-trip hike. Expect the loop to take about two hours. During the first mile of the hike there’s a gradual climb of 500 feet before a steep 300-foot descent to the basin. You’ll encounter rocky patches, so wear hiking boots.WARNING: Stay on trails and boardwalks near the thermal areas, as what appears to be firm ground may be only a thin crust over scalding mud. Moderate. | Trailhead at end of paved parking area off Lassen Park Rd., 6 miles from the southwest entrance ranger station | www.nps.gov/lavo.
Fodor’s Choice | Lassen Peak Hike.
This trail winds 2½ miles to the mountaintop. It’s a tough climb—2,000 feet uphill on a steady, steep grade—but the reward is a spectacular view. At the peak you can see into the rim and view the entire park (and much of California’s far north). Bring sunscreen, water, and a jacket, since it’s often windy and much cooler at the summit. TIP After a multiyear restoration project, the trail is open again. | Trailhead past a paved parking area off Lassen Park Rd., 7 miles north of the southwest entrance ranger station | 530/595–4480 | www.nps.gov/lavo.
Chester
36 miles west of Susanville on Hwy 36.
The population of this small town on Lake Almanor swells from 2,500 to nearly 5,000 in summer as tourists come to visit. Chester serves as a gateway to Lassen Volcanic National Park.
Getting Here and Around
Chester is on Highway 36E. When snow doesn’t close Highway 89, the main road through Lassen Park, visitors can take Highway 44 from Redding to Highway 89 through the park and to Highway 36E and onto Chester and Lake Almanor. Plumas County Transit connects Chester to the Quincy area.
Essentials
Bus Information
Plumas County Transit. | 530/283–2538 | www.plumastransit.com.
Visitor Information
Lake Almanor Area Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau. | 328 #6 Main St., near Reynolds Rd. | 530/258–2426 | www.lakealmanorarea.com.
Exploring
Lake Almanor.
This lake’s 52 miles of forested shoreline are popular with campers, swimmers, water-skiers, and anglers. At an elevation of 4,500 feet, the lake warms to above 70°F for about eight weeks in summer. | Off Hwys. 89 and 36 | 530/258–2426 | www.lakealmanorarea.com.
Where to Eat and Stay
Kopper Kettle Cafe.
$ | AMERICAN | Locals return again and again to this tidy restaurant that serves home-cooked lunches and dinners. Head here for breakfast whenever you’ve got a hankering for scrambled eggs or biscuits and gravy. | Average main: $15 | 243 Main St., at Myrtle St. | 530/258–2698.
Best Western Rose Quartz Inn.
$$ | HOTEL | Down the road from Lake Almanor and close to Lassen Volcanic National Park, this small-town inn balances traditional decor and up-to-the-minute amenities like Wi-Fi. A large and lustrous piece of polished rose quartz anchors the outside entrance to the lobby. Small pets are allowed in some rooms. Pros: near national park; within easy walking distance of town’s restaurants. Cons: standard rooms on the pricey side. | Rooms from: $140 | 306 Main St. | 530/258–2002, 888/571–4885 | www.rosequartzinn.com | 51 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Bidwell House.
$$ | B&B/INN | Some guest rooms at this 1901 ranch house have wood-burning stoves, claw-foot tubs, and antique furnishings; a separate cottage with a kitchen sleeps six. Porch swings invite you to linger and do the puzzles and games in the sunroom. The blueberry-walnut pancakes are the stars of the inn’s gourmet three-course breakfast. Pros: unique decor in each room; beautiful wooded setting; near Lake Almanor. Cons: not ideal for kids. | Rooms from: $135 | 1 Main St. | 530/258–3338 | www.bidwellhouse.com | 14 rooms, 2 with shared bath | Breakfast.
Quincy
67 miles southwest of Susanville via Hwys. 36 and 89.
A center for mining and logging in the 1850s, Quincy is nestled against the western slope of the Sierra Nevada. The county seat and largest community in Plumas County, the town is rich in historic buildings that have been the focus of preservation and restoration efforts. The four-story courthouse on Main Street, one of several stops on a self-guided tour, was built in 1921 with marble posts and staircases. The arts are thriving in Quincy, too: catch a play or a bluegrass performance at the Town Hall Theatre.
Getting Here and Around
Quincy is on Highway 70 and is accessible from all directions via mountain roads. Highway 70 goes through the Feather River Canyon to Highway 149, then Highway 99 to Chico and Red Bluff, a 198-mile trip. From Quincy, Highway 70 connects to Highway 89 and then to Highway 36E toward Susanville in the east, or westward toward Chester and Lassen Park. Plumas County Transit serves Chester and Quincy. Lassen Rural Bus connects Quincy and Susanville.
Essentials
Bus Information
Lassen Rural Bus. | 530/252–7433 | www.lassentransportation.com/a/Lassen-Rural-Bus-LRB.php.
Plumas County Transit. | 530/283–2538 | www.plumastransit.com.
Visitor Information
Quincy Chamber of Commerce. | 336 Main St., inside Plumas Bank | 530/283–0188 | www.quincychamber.com.
Exploring
Bucks Lake Recreation Area.
The main recreational attraction in central Plumas County is 17 miles southwest of Quincy at elevation 5,200 feet. During warm months the lake’s 17-mile shoreline, two marinas, and eight campgrounds attract anglers and water-sports enthusiasts. Trails through the tall pines beckon hikers and horseback riders. In winter much of the area remains open for snowmobiling and cross-country skiing. | Bucks Lake Rd. | 530/283–0188 | www.plumascounty.org/communities/buckslake.htm.
Plumas County Museum.
The cultural, home arts, and industrial history displays at the Plumas County Museum contain artifacts dating to the 1850s. Highlights include collections of Maidu Indian basketry, pioneer weapons, and rooms depicting life in the early logging and mining days of Plumas County. Out in the Exhibit Yard are a working blacksmith shop, a restored goldminer’s cabin, and a railroad exhibit. | 500 Jackson St., at Coburn St. | 530/283–6320 | www.plumasmuseum.org | $2 | Tues.–Sat. 10–4.
Plumas National Forest.
Plumas County is known for its wide-open spaces, and the 1.2-million-acre Plumas National Forest, with its high alpine lakes and crystal clear woodland streams, is a beautiful example. Hundreds of campsites are maintained in the forest, and picnic areas and hiking trails abound. You can enter the forest along highways 70 and 89. | U.S. Forest Service,159 Lawrence St., near W. Main St. | 530/283–2050 | www.fs.usda.gov/plumas | Office weekdays 8–4:30.
Where to Eat and Stay
Sweet Lorraine’s.
$$ | AMERICAN | Hearty fare served in this casual, bustling restaurant in Quincy’s historic downtown area includes meaty dishes like St. Louis–style ribs as well as vegetarian options and lighter fare; there’s also a good selection of wines. If the weather is mild, dine alfresco on the patio. Counter seating is fast and friendly. | Average main: $18 | 384 Main St., at Harbison Ave. | 530/283–5300 | Closed Sun. and Mon.
Fodor’s Choice | Ada’s Place.
$ | RENTAL | This place is actually four uniquely beautiful cottages, secluded on a quiet street one block from the county courthouse and downtown Quincy. Each is decorated with a different motif—Ruth’s Garden has floral accents, while the serene Hop Sing’s (with lovely wood floors) has Oriental-art details—and each has a private yard or deck and a full kitchen. Pros: on-site owners’ meticulous upkeep. Cons: no pets allowed. | Rooms from: $110 | 562 Jackson St., near Court St. | 530/283–1954, 877/234–2327 | www.adasplace.com | 4 cottages | No meals.
Lariat Lodge.
$ | HOTEL | This small, single-story motel 2 miles east of downtown is a quiet haven surrounded by views of the Plumas National Forest. Ask for one of the updated rooms. Pros: inexpensive rooms; lovely setting. Cons: older facility. | Rooms from: $75 | 2370 E. Main St. | 530/283–1000, 800/999–7199 | Fax 530/283–2164 | www.lariatlodge.com | 19 rooms | No meals.