Designer and high-street fashion can be found in the Eixample along Passeig de Gràcia and Rambla de Catalunya, though for new names and boutiques the best hunting ground is in the Old Town streets around Passeig del Born (La Ribera). Second-hand and vintage clothing stores line Carrer de la Riera Baixa (El Raval), there’s music and streetwear along nearby Carrer dels Tallers, and for antiques and curios it’s best in the streets near Carrer Banys Nous (Barri Gòtic). The markets, meanwhile, are king, from the heavyweight Boqueria to lesser-known gems like the Mercat Santa Caterina in trendy Sant Pere or Gràcia’s Mercat de la Llibertat.
OUR FAVOURITES: Artesania Catalunya. Bulevard dels Antiquaris. El Corte Inglés.
In popular Old Town areas food and service can be indifferent and expensive. There are some great bars and restaurants in tourist-heavy La Ribera and the Barri Gòtic, but you should explore the up-and-coming neighbourhoods of Sant Pere, El Raval and Poble Sec for the best local finds. Michelin stars and big bills are mostly found in the Eixample, while for the best fish and seafood head for harbourside Barceloneta or the Port Olímpic. The suburb of Gràcia is also a nice, village-like place to spend the evening, with plenty of good mid-range restaurants.
OUR FAVOURITES: Ca l'Estevet. Bodega la Plata. Gresca.
Whatever you’re looking for, you’ll find it here, from bohemian boozer to cocktail bar. Passeig del Born (La Ribera) is one of the hottest destinations, with Sant Pere hard on its heels, while there’s an edgier scene in El Raval and around Carrer de Blai (Poble Sec). The main concentration of designer bars (and the city’s gay scene) is in the Esquerra de l’Eixample, while the theme bars of Port Olímpic are mainstream playgrounds for locals and visitors. Bars usually stay open till any time between 11pm and 2 or 3am.
OUR FAVOURITES: Boada's Cocktails. Can Paixano. Milk.
Clubs in Barcelona start late and go on until 5 or 6am, and while Thursday to Sunday sees the most action, there are DJs on the decks every night. The big-name venues tend to be in the old industrial zones like Poble Nou; downtown clubs are often jazz-orientated, though local rock, pop, indie and even flamenco get regular airings in venues across the Barri Gòtic and El Raval. For typically Catalan surroundings, a concert at Sant Pere’s Palau de la Música Catalana can’t be beaten, while the principal venue in the Eixample is L’Auditori.
OUR FAVOURITES: Arena Madre. Bikini. Sala Apolo.