Accommodations: See Sleeping
Alcázar: Segovia, 118–119; Toledo, 149–150
Almudena Cathedral (Madrid): 22
Ambulance: 174
American Express: 174
Apartment rentals, in Madrid: 78
Archaeological museum, in Madrid: 29, 62
Architecture, Museum of (El Escorial): 102–103
Armory: Madrid, 36–37; Segovia, 119
Army Museum (Toledo): 140, 149–150
Arrival: in Madrid, 6–7; in Segovia, 112; in Toledo, 134–138
Art museums: CaixaForum (Madrid), 59; Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (Madrid), 28, 52–58; El Greco Museum (Toledo), 140, 152–153; Museo de Arte Contempor neo Esteban Vicente (Segovia), 119; Museo Sorolla (Madrid), 62; Museo Victorio Macho (Toledo), 140, 154–155; Museum of Paintings (El Escorial), 103; Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo), 140, 147–149; Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (Madrid), 28, 51–52. See also Prado Museum
ATMs: 171–172
Atocha Station (Madrid): 4, 6, 91–92
Ávila: 126–131; eating, 130–131; map, 127; sights, 128–129; sleeping, 129–130; tourist information, 126; transportation, 126–127, 131
Ávila Cathedral: 128
Ávila Wall: 128
Barajas Airport (Madrid): 7, 95–96
Bernabéu Stadium (Madrid): 67
Bisagra Gate (Toledo): 134, 138, 158; sleeping near, 161
Bocadillosde calamares: 88
Bookstores, in Madrid: 8–9
Bosch, Hieronymus: 43–44, 102, 106
Bravo, Juan: 123
Breakfast: Madrid, 89; Segovia, 123
Bruegel, Pieter: 44
Bullfighting bar, in Madrid: 19, 88
Bullfighting Museum (Madrid): 67
Bullfights: Madrid, 28, 66–67; Segovia, 116
Buñuel, Luis: 54
Burial of the Count of Orgaz (El Greco): 140, 151–152
Buses: 173–174; Ávila, 127, 131; El Escorial, 100; Madrid, 6–7, 10, 94; tours, 12, 13, 64–65; Segovia, 112, 124–125; Toledo, 134–139, 167
Cabs: See Taxis
CaixaForum (Madrid): 59
Calle Cava Baja (Madrid), tapas: 83–84
Calle Comercio (Toledo): 133
Calle de Jesús (Madrid), tapas: 82–83
Calle del Arenal (Madrid): 24–26
Calle de Postas (Madrid): 17
Calle Juan Bravo (Segovia): 113, 123
Calle Mayor (Madrid): 21–22
Car rentals: Madrid, 96–97; Toledo, 138
Car travel (driving): 174; Ávila, 127; El Escorial, 100–101; Madrid, 96, 97; Segovia, 125–126; Toledo, 137–138, 167–168
Casa Rúa (Madrid): 88
Casita Museo de Ratón Pérez (Madrid): 26
Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena (Madrid): 22
Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (Madrid): 28, 52–58
Centro de Interpretación del Misticismo (Ávila): 129
Centro Dram tico Nacional (Madrid): 65
Cervantes, Miguel de: 168–169
Chamartín Station (Madrid): 4, 6, 91–92
Chapel of San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 29, 63
Chapel of the New Kings (Toledo): 144
Chapter House (Toledo): 143–144
Charles III Bedroom (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 33–34
Churches and cathedrals: Almudena Cathedral (Madrid), 22; Ávila Cathedral, 128; Corpus Christi Church (Madrid), 20–21; St. Ginès Church (Madrid), 25–26; San Roman Church (Toledo), 151; Santos Justo y Pastor Church (Segovia), 119; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 140, 151–152; Segovia Cathedral, 117–118; Toledo Cathedral, 139, 141–146; Valley of the Fallen Basilica, 110–111; Vera Cruz Church, 120
Churros con chocolate: 71, 90–91
Circulo de Bellas Artes (Madrid): 59–60
Classical guitars, shopping for, in Madrid: 68
Clothing Museum (Madrid): 29, 63
Coin market, in Madrid: 18, 68
Consuegra: 168–169
Convent of St. Teresa (Ávila): 129
Corpus Christi Church (Madrid): 20–21
Corpus Christi Convent (Madrid): 20–21
Corpus Christi Convent (Segovia): 116
Cuatro Postes (Ávila): 125, 128
Currency and exchange: 171–172
Dalí, Salvador: 53–54
Damascene: 159
Descalzas Royal Monastery (Madrid): 61
Discounts: See Money-saving tips
Don Quixote (Cervantes): 168–169
Driving: See Car travel
Dürer, Albrecht: 42
Eating: 173; Ávila, 130–131; El Escorial, 107; Madrid, 78–91; Segovia, 122–124; Spanish restaurant phrases, 177; Toledo, 164–167; Valley of the Fallen, 111. See also Tapas
El Corte Inglés (Madrid): 8–9, 67, 89, 90
El Escorial: 100–107; eating, 107; history of, 104; maps, 101, 103; sights, 102–107; transportation, 100–101
El Escorial Monastery: 100, 102–107; map, 103
El Greco: biographical sketch, 153; El Escorial, 106; Museum (Toledo), 140, 152–153; Prado Museum (Madrid), 47; Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo), 149; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 140, 151–152; Toledo Cathedral, 144–145
El Martes (Toledo): 159
E-mail: See Internet access
Embassies: 174
Emergencies: 174
Entertainment: current schedule, 6; Madrid, 69–71; Segovia, 124
Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 29, 63
Euro currency: 171
Fans, shopping for, in Madrid: 68
Ferpal (Madrid): 26
Festivals: 175
Flamenco, in Madrid: 28, 69–70
Flea market, in Madrid: 7, 29, 68
Food: See Churros con chocolate; Eating; Markets; Mazapán; Roast suckling pig; Tapas
“Football,” in Madrid: 67
Fútbol House (Madrid): 26
Garden of Earthly Delights, The (Bosch): 43–44
Gasparini Room (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 33
Goya, Francisco de: 53, 145; Prado Museum (Madrid), 48–51; Tomb (Madrid), 29, 63
Granada: 167–168
Gran Vía (Madrid): 59–64; map, 60; nightlife, 69–70; sleeping, 72–75
Guernica (Picasso): 54–57
Guidebooks: Rick Steves, 175; Toledo, 138
Guided tours: See Tours
Guitars, shopping for, in Madrid: 68
Helpful hints: 174–175; Madrid, 7–10; Segovia, 112–113; Toledo, 138
Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 29, 63
History Museum (Madrid): 62–63
Holidays: 175
Hotels: See Sleeping
House of Siglo XV (Segovia): 116
Ice cream, in Madrid: 84
Information: See Tourist information
Internet access: Madrid, 8; Toledo, 138
Itineraries: Madrid, 3; Toledo, 133
Jazz bars, in Madrid: 71
Jewish museum (Toledo): 140, 153–154
Knives, shopping for, in Toledo: 158–159
La Granja Palace: 120
La Mallorquina (Madrid): 17
La Mancha: 168–169
Las Meninas (Velázquez): 44–45
La Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 19, 88
Laundry, in Madrid: 9
Lavapiés (Madrid): 65–66
Macho (Victorio) Museum (Toledo): 140, 154–155
Madrid: 1–97; at a glance, 28–29; arrival in, 6–7; eating, 78–91; experiences, 64–67; helpful hints, 7–10; layout of, 3–4; maps, 2, 5, 9, 14–15, 38, 73, 79, 81; nightlife, 69–71; orientation, 3–4; planning tips, 3; shopping, 67–68; sights, 27–64; sleeping, 71–78; tourist information, 4, 6; tours, 12–13; transportation, 10–12, 91–97; walking tour, 14–26
Madrid History Museum: 62–63
Madrid Royal Palace: See Royal Palace
Madrid Tower: 23
Madrid Town Hall: 21
Maids of Honor (Velázquez): 44–45
Mantegna, Andrea: 42
Maps: Ávila, 127; El Escorial, 101, 103; Greater Madrid, 5; Heart of Madrid, 9; Madrid, 2, 14–15; Madrid eating, 79, 81; Madrid Metro, 11; Madrid sleeping, 73; Madrid’s museum neighborhood, 38; northwest of Madrid, 99; Segovia, 114–115; Toledo, 135, 137, 160, 162
Markets: Ávila, 130; El Escorial, 107; Madrid, 7, 20, 29, 68, 88–89; Segovia, 124; Toledo, 159, 166
Mercado de San Miguel (Madrid): 20, 88–89
Mesón de Cándido (Segovia): 122
Metric system: 175
Metro (Madrid): 10, 96; map, 11
Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz (Toledo): 150–151
Modern District (Madrid): 64–65
Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales (Madrid): 61
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes (Toledo): 140, 156–157
Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial: 100, 102–107; map, 103
Money: 171–172
Money-saving tips: Madrid, 4, 6; Toledo, 134
Movie theaters, in Madrid: 71
Mozarabic Chapel (Toledo): 146
Murillo, Bartolomeo: 46
Museo Arqueológico Nacional (Madrid): 29, 62
Museo de América (Madrid): 29, 61–62
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Esteban Vicente (Segovia): 119
Museo de Historia (Madrid): 62–63
Museo del Arte Thyssen-Bornemisza (Madrid): 28, 51–52
Museo del Ejército (Toledo): 140, 149–150
Museo del Greco (Toledo): 140, 152–153
Museo del Jamón (Madrid): 84–86
Museo de los Concilios y de la Cultura Visigoda (Toledo): 140, 151
Museo del Traje (Madrid): 29, 63
Museo de Santa Cruz (Toledo): 140, 147–149
Museo Nacional del Prado (Madrid): See Prado Museum
Museo Sefardí (Toledo): 140, 153–154
Museo Sorolla (Madrid): 62
Museo Taurino (Madrid): 67
Museo Victorio Macho (Toledo): 140, 154–155
Museo Visigoda Iglesia de San Román (Toledo): 140, 151
Museum Neighborhood (Madrid): 37–58; map, 38
Museum of Architecture (El Escorial): 102–103
Museum of Paintings (El Escorial): 103
Museum of the Americas (Madrid): 29, 61–62
Music, in Madrid: 69–71
Mysticism Interpretation Center (Ávila): 129
National Archaeological Museum (Madrid): 29, 62
Nightlife: Madrid, 69–71; Segovia, 124
Organized tours: See Tours
Packing list: 176
Palacio Real (Madrid): See Royal Palace
Pans & Company (Madrid): 17, 90
Parador de Toledo: 164
Parque del Buen Retiro (Madrid): 28–29, 58
Paseo de la Castellana (Madrid): 64–65
Paseo del Arte (Madrid): 4, 38
Phoning: 172
Picasso, Pablo: 54–57
Planning tips: Madrid, 3; Toledo, 133
Plaza de Calloa (Madrid): 4
Plaza de Castilla (Madrid): 65
Plaza de Colón (Madrid): 4
Plaza de España (Madrid): 61
Plaza de Isabel II (Madrid): 23–24
Plaza de las Ánimas (El Escorial): 107
Plaza del Carmen (Madrid), sleeping near: 76
Plaza de Oriente (Madrid): 23
Plaza de San Martín (Segovia): 113, 116
Plaza de Toros (Madrid): 66–67
Plaza de Zocodover (Toledo): 133, 146–147, 157–158; eating, 165–167; map, 160; sleeping near, 159–160
Plaza Mayor (Madrid): 4, 17–18, 28; eating, 78–81, 88–89; information, 4; maps, 15, 79; sleeping near, 75
Plaza Mayor (Segovia): 116, 123
Plaza Santa Ana (Madrid): 65–66, 87
Police: 174
Porcelain Room (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 34
Prado Museum (Madrid): 28, 39–51; eating near, 88; free evenings, 8; information, 4; maps, 38, 40; self-guided tour, 41–51; sleeping near, 75, 77–78
Príncipe Pío Station (Madrid): 6, 94
Pronovias (Madrid): 26
Prostitution: 7–8
Puerta de Europa (Madrid): 64, 65
Puerta del Sol (Madrid): 3, 14–17, 28; eating near, 89–90; map, 15; shopping, 67–68; sleeping near, 72–75, 76–77
Reader feedback: 176
Real Fábrica de Tapices (Madrid): 63
Real Jardín Botánico (Madrid): 29, 58
Real Madrid: 67
Reina Sofía (Madrid): 28, 52–58
Resources from Rick Steves: 175
Restaurants: See Eating
Retiro Park (Madrid): 28–29, 58
Ribera, José: 106
Roast suckling pig: 80, 122–123
Roman Aqueduct (Segovia): 116–117
Royal Botanical Garden (Madrid): 29, 58
Royal Chapel (Madrid): 35–36
Royal families of Spain: 24–25
Royal Palace (Madrid): 22–23, 27–37; eating near, 87–88; map, 14; self-guided tour, 29–37; tours, 27–28
Royal Pantheon (El Escorial): 105–106
Royal Tapestry Factory (Madrid): 63
Royal Theater (Madrid): 23
Rubens, Peter Paul: 46, 61, 144
Sacristy (Toledo): 144–145
St. Ginès Church (Madrid): 25–26
St. Teresa Convent (Ávila): 129
Salamanca: 125–126
San Antonio de la Florida Hermitage (Madrid): 63
San Juan de los Reyes Monasterio (Toledo): 140, 156–157
San Lorenzo de El Escorial Monastery: 100, 102–107; map, 103
San Miguel market (Madrid): 20, 88–89
San Roman Church (Toledo): 151
Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo): 140, 147–149
Santa María la Blanca Synagogue (Toledo): 140, 155–156
Santos Justo y Pastor Church (Segovia): 119
Santo Tomé (Toledo): 140, 151–152
SATE: 7
Segovia: 111–126; arrival in, 112; eating, 122–124; helpful hints, 112–113; map, 114–115; orientation, 111–112; sights, 116–120; sleeping, 120–122; tourist information, 112; transportation, 112, 124–126; walking tour, 113, 116
Segovia Cathedral: 117–118
Shopping: Madrid, 67–68; Segovia, 112; Toledo, 158–159. See also Markets
Siesta: 175
Sights: Ávila, 128–129; El Escorial, 102–107; general tips, 175; Madrid, 27–64; free, 8; Segovia, 116–120; Toledo, 139–158. See also specific sights
Sightseeing passes: Madrid, 4, 6; Toledo, 134
Silla de Felipe: 101
Sinagoga del Tránsito (Toledo): 140, 153–154
Sinagoga de Santa María la Blanca (Toledo): 140, 155–156
Sleeping: Ávila, 129–130; Madrid, 71–78; reservations, 172–173; Segovia, 120–122; Toledo, 159–164; Valley of the Fallen, 111
Sobrino del Botín (Madrid): 80
Soccer, in Madrid: 67
Sorolla (Joaquín) Museum (Madrid): 62
Spanish Civil War: about, 109
Spanish restaurant phrases: 177
Spanish survival phrases: 176
Stamp market, in Madrid: 18, 68
Stradivarius Room (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 36
Subway: See Metro
Tapas: 173; Ávila, 130; Madrid, 81–87; Segovia, 123–124; Toledo, 165
Taxis: Madrid, 10, 12, 96; Toledo, 134, 138, 167; Valley of the Fallen, 108
Teatro Real (Madrid): 23
Telephones: 172
Temple of Debod (Madrid): 63–64
Terrorism Memorial (Madrid): 92–93
Third of May (Goya): 49
Throne Room (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 32
Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (Madrid): 28, 51–52
Tiepolo, Giambattista: 30–32
Time zone: 174–175
Toledo: 132–168; at a glance, 140; arrival in, 134–138; eating, 164–167; helpful hints, 138; history of, 136; layout of, 133–134; maps, 135, 137, 160, 162; orientation, 133–134; planning tips, 133; shopping, 158–159; sights, 139–158; sleeping, 159–164; tourist information, 134; tours, 138–139; transportation, 167–168
Toledo: Its Art and Its History: 138
Toledo Cathedral: 139, 141–146; map, 142; self-guided tour, 141–146
Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 19, 88
Tour guides: Madrid, 13; Segovia, 112; Toledo, 139
Tourist information: 176; Ávila, 126; Madrid, 4, 6; Segovia, 112; Toledo, 134
Tours: El Escorial, 102; Madrid, 12–13; Royal Palace, 27–28; Rick Steves, 175; Toledo, 138–139
Train stations, in Madrid: 6, 91–92
Train travel: 173–174; Ávila, 126, 127; El Escorial, 100; Madrid, 6, 91–94; Segovia, 112, 124; Toledo, 134, 167
Transportation: 173–174; Ávila, 126–127, 131; El Escorial, 100–101; Madrid, 91–97; Segovia, 112, 124–126; Toledo, 134–135, 167–168; Valley of the Fallen, 108. See also Buses; Car travel; Metro; Taxis; Train travel
Travel agencies, in Madrid: 9
Treasury (Toledo): 145–146
Valle de los Caídos: 108–111
Valley of the Fallen: 108–111
Valley of the Fallen Basilica: 110–111
Van der Weyden, Roger: 42–43
Velázquez, Diego: 44–45, 106, 144
Vera Cruz Church: 120
Vicente (Esteban) Museum (Segovia): 119
Visigothic Museum (Toledo): 140, 151
Visitor information: See Tourist information
Walking tours, guided, in Madrid: 12–13
Walking tours, self-guided: Madrid, 14–26; Gran Vía, 59–64; Segovia, 113, 116
Yemas, in Ávila: 129