FOR YEARS, SOUPS WERE A HUGE MYSTERY FOR ME. I ALWAYS LOVED THEM, ESPECIALLY THE creamy versions, but the idea of making them from scratch was intimidating. I had imagined they were insanely complex and assumed I would screw it up. But when I actually saw my mother-in-law, Basia, make a tomato soup from scratch in 45 minutes, I was amazed.
Seeing the simplicity of soup-making stirred me. Suddenly, many of the foods I had assumed were impossible for an amateur were within my reach. It broke down my idealization of chefs and gave me the courage to roll up my sleeves and cook.
Of course, I didn’t master anything overnight. I saw Basia make that soup years before I started to seriously dabble in the world of stocks and stews, but that awe stayed with me and was one of the reasons why I chose to learn to cook. If generations of grandmothers and mothers could do it, maybe it was high time for me to master the art too.
I started making chicken noodle soup using bouillon cubes or store-bought canned/boxed stocks. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with starting there—in fact, I recommend it, especially if time is a factor for you. After you get comfortable with this method, you can move on to making your own stock too.
My first few tries weren’t pretty, but they tasted a hundred times better than the canned options. This is what I did! Bring a medium-sized pot of water to a boil. Add the bouillon cubes (check the package for the correct ratio; however, I usually used ½ cube more than what was specified for more flavor), then reduce to a simmer. Chop an onion in half, peel 1 clove of garlic, roughly cube 2 carrots and 2 potatoes, and add it all to the pot. Then add 3 to 4 allspice berries, a bay leaf, a pinch of salt, some cooked, shredded chicken, and stir. Let it simmer for 30 minutes or until the potatoes are cooked.
Taste the broth to see if you need more salt. Then discard the bay leaf, allspice, and onion (these are just flavor enhancers), make some pasta separately, and serve the soup hot over the pasta. Please note that if you cook the pasta in the soup, it will absorb all the liquids and become giant, soft noodles if there are leftovers (just like the canned versions). So factor in the absorption rate and add a bit more water.
The magical thing about soups is that you can easily transform one into another by adding a few simple ingredients. For example, if I wanted a creamy potato soup, I’d remove the carrots, add 2 to 4 tablespoons heavy cream once it was done cooking, stir, and serve. If I wanted a thicker potato soup, I’d also add a roux.
Don’t be afraid, a roux is very simple. You take a small pan, melt 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat, then quickly stir in 2 tablespoons of flour until it becomes a thick and even paste. This happens quickly and you don’t want to burn it, so pay attention. You can add more flour for a thicker roux, but I like the 1:1 ratio. Remove it from the heat, add some of the soup liquids to the roux and stir (this helps remove any clumps), and then add it to the soup while it simmers. Stir, then give it 5 minutes, and it should thicken up nicely.
Let’s say you want a tomato soup instead. Take 4 to 8 tablespoons of tomato paste (depending on how tomato-y you want it) and place it in a cup. Add some of the chicken noodle soup liquids to the cup and stir, using a spoon, until the tomato paste is dissolved and well combined. Add this to the soup, simmer for 5 minutes, and it’s done. For a creamy tomato soup, add 2 to 3 tablespoons heavy cream after simmering, stir and serve.
For a very Polish soup, try making a pickle soup. The key here is to buy the kosher dill pickles in brine found in the refrigerated section, not the sweet kind! When you’re adding the carrots and potatoes, grate 2 to 3 of these pickles into the soup and add ¼ cup of the pickle brine to the soup. Bring to a boil, then simmer until the potatoes are tender.
Once you get the hang of that, you can try adding more flavorful herbs like fresh parsley, dill, basil, thyme, etc. You can add them in the beginning of the soup-making process for a less pronounced taste, or at the end for a brighter, more acute flavor. It’s crazy simple and infinitely flexible. Here are some other soup recipes to expand your soupertoire.
Vegetable, chicken, and beef stocks are hugely important when cooking and incredibly simple to make. These flavor condensers form the base for many delicious dishes and are an essential part of making soups. After a lot of trial and error, here are my foolproof stock recipes.
A vegetable stock is the quickest to make because you want to keep the flavors crisp—cook for too little time and you won’t get as much flavor, but cook for too long and it will taste dull and overdone.
TIP: For a deeper savory flavor, try roasting the vegetables at 400 ºF for 30 to 45 minutes (make sure they don’t char), then continue on to step 2.
INGREDIENTS
1 garlic clove
4 carrots
2 parsnips
½ celeriac root
1 onion
1 leek
2 bay leaves
5 black peppercorns
3 allspice berries
3 dried mushrooms
1 tsp salt
8½ cups water
1 Peel the garlic and roughly chop the carrots, parsnips, celeriac, onion, and leek into large chunks. Thoroughly wash and place in a stockpot.
2 Add the bay leaves, peppercorns, allspice, dried mushrooms, salt, and enough cold water so all the ingredients are submerged (about 2 quarts). Cover the pot with a lid and bring to a simmer.
3 Once you see small bubbles, remove the lid and cook for 30 minutes.
4 Remove the large vegetable chunks and strain the stock using cheesecloth.
If you only learn one thing from this book, let it be this recipe! A chicken stock is the mother of so many amazing recipes. I just can’t express how important it is.
TIP: To be more economical, what I like to do is roast a chicken for dinner, then, the day after, use any leftover meat and the chicken carcass to make a stock. It will taste slightly different than the recipe below, since the chicken is roasted and there is less meat, so add more vegetables and herbs and reduce the cooking time in step 5 to 3 hours (max).
INGREDIENTS
1 whole chicken
1 onion
3 carrots
3 celery stalks
3 garlic cloves
8½ cups water
½ tsp coarse salt
½ tsp peppercorns
2 sprigs fresh parsley
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
2 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
(place the herbs in a cheesecloth and tie with a string—this is called a bouquet garni and will be easier to add/remove.)
1 Wash and clean the chicken and vegetables. Cut the onion in half and chop the carrots and celery so they fit in the pot, or keep whole. Separate out the chicken breasts.
2 Place the chicken, onion, carrots, celery, and garlic in a large pot and cover with cold water so everything is submerged. Bring it to a boil, then immediately lower to a simmer.
3 Remove any foam that comes to the surface, and add salt, peppercorns, and the bouquet garni, and simmer for 1 hour.
4 Remove the chicken breasts for dinner or leave in the pot for a more flavorful stock.
5 Continue to simmer for 4 to 5 hours (max). Stir, taste, and season with additional salt lightly at hourly intervals.
6 Remove the chicken and vegetables and strain the broth using a cheesecloth. Let it cool completely before placing it in the refrigerator. The fat will separate and create a thick layer on the top. Scrape that off and it’s ready to use or store.
Similar to a chicken stock, a beef stock can add a lot of amazing depth to sauces, gravies, and soups. Whether you use only the bones or the meat with the bones, it’s crucial that you don’t leave the stock at a roaring boil. It should boil just to get things going, then immediately be reduced to a simmer. The reason for this is that when you simmer the stock, the scum (which consists of congealed proteins) and fat will rise to the surface where they can be skimmed off. If boiled for a long time, the scum will emulsify and make the stock cloudy and greasy in taste.
TIPS: To get more out of this stock, you can use a large chunk of beef shank (with the bone) instead of just the bones. This will create a richer taste, and you can eat that meat for dinner.
INGREDIENTS
1 onion
2 carrots
1 celeriac root
1 parsnip
6 garlic cloves
extra-virgin olive oil
2½ lbs beef bones (preferably with some meat)
8½ cups water
1 large parsley bunch
a few sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 tsp black peppercorns
2 tsp salt (optional)
1 Preheat the oven to 450 ºF.
2 Roughly cut all the vegetables into 3-inch pieces.
3 Place the bones and vegetables in a large roasting pan and drizzle with some olive oil, then roast for 30 minutes, turning the bones once at the 15-minute mark.
4 Pour everything into a large pot. Be sure to scrape those browned bits off the pan too (you may need to add some hot water to dislodge them).
5 Add cold water to the stockpot so everything is covered. Also add the parsley, thyme, bay leaf, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook for 5 hours, skimming off any fat or foam (at hourly intervals). Add salt to taste.
6 Strain through cheesecloth and use or refrigerate. There will be a layer of fat once chilled, so remove that before freezing or cooking with the stock.
Stocks store really well, but make sure they have cooled completely before placing in containers in the refrigerator or freezer. These stocks can be stored in the refrigerator for 1 week, or in the freezer for 6 months.
To Freeze: Once cooled, pour into ice cube trays or muffin pans and place in the freezer for 1 day. Remove from containers (you may need to place in a bowl of hot water to loosen), then transfer to Ziploc bags and place back in the freezer. (Note: It might be a good idea to get a separate ice cube tray, because stock-flavored ice cubes are gross.)
Bouillon Cubes/Concentrates: These quick, store-bought options are convenient and come in cube or liquid form. Just add boiling water to the ratio of bouillon you are using (see package), stir, and you have a stock. However, bouillon cubes and concentrates typically contain a high amount of salt because they are dehydrated and can have additives that are probably not the healthiest, so read the label beforehand.
Too Bland: This can happen when there’s too much water or too little salt. To fix, bring the stock to a boil, add a pinch of salt and reduce slowly. Taste every 15 minutes and add salt a pinch at a time. (Note: It’s OK for a homemade stock to be less salty than the store-bought kinds because you will likely season it again, once you use it in a soup or sauce).
Too Salty: Add more water or try adding some acid (like lemon or vinegar) or sugar. You can also add some pasta and/or potatoes to absorb some of the salt.
Too Sweet: Try adding some salt or 1 teaspoon of apple cider vinegar or white vinegar. Be sure to taste after each addition.
Too Bitter: This can happen to stews with beer or if you add too much lemon. To fix, bring to a boil for a few minutes and see if it evaporates out. Then try adding some salt, sugar, or garlic.
SERVES: 2–3
INGREDIENTS
2 carrots
2 potatoes
1 onion
6 cups chicken stock (1.4 L) or bouillon cubes
salt and pepper
1 cup flour (128 grams)
2 eggs
1 sprig fresh parsley
DIRECTIONS
1 Peel the carrots and potatoes and chop them into similar-size chunks. Cut the onion in half.
2 In a large pot over high heat, add the chopped vegetables and chicken stock (see pg 103) and bring it to a boil, then lower to a simmer. If using bouillon cubes, fill the pot with 6 cups of water and bring to a boil, then add the cubes and stir until dissolved. (Check the package for the correct bouillon:water ratio.)
3 Taste and season with salt and pepper, then simmer for 30 to 45 minutes.
4 Bring a small pot of water to a boil.
5 In a bowl, combine the flour and eggs and mix well until there are no lumps.
6 Slowly pour the batter into the boiling water until all the batter is used, forming long, noodle-like strings. Stir, then strain the egg noodles.
7 Place the egg noodles in a bowl, then add the soup and garnish with freshly chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
NOTE As a well-known remedy for all sniffles and colds, this recipe will keep you hydrated—it has electrolytes. The handmade noodles are very quick and easy, so you can get back to that couch or bed if you have to make it for yourself.
SERVES: 3–4
INGREDIENTS
3 slices bacon/pancetta
1 yellow onion
2 garlic cloves
1 tsp olive oil (5 ml)
1 can (28 oz) chopped tomatoes (0.8 L)
1 tbsp dried sage (12 grams)
a pinch of red pepper flakes
1 bay leaf
salt and pepper
1 can (14 oz) of cannellini beans (0.4 L)
4 cups chicken stock (1 L)
½ cup of ditalini pasta (125 grams)
Parmesan cheese
1–2 sprigs fresh parsley
DIRECTIONS
1 Finely chop the bacon or pancetta and the yellow onion. Mince the garlic.
2 In a large pot, heat olive oil over medium-high heat and sauté the bacon, onion, and garlic. Stir and cook for 5 to 8 minutes.
3 Add the can of tomatoes, sage, red pepper flakes, and bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 20 minutes.
4 Rinse the cannellini beans thoroughly and add to the soup. Then add the chicken stock and continue to simmer for 30 minutes.
5 Add the pasta and cook until soft.
6 Ladle and serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese and chopped parsley.
NOTE In Italian this soup is called pasta e fagioli, which means “pasta and beans.” It is traditionally a meatless dish, but I like to use bacon or pancetta to add a robust, smoky taste and increase the amount of protein. A perfect dish for cold, rainy days, since tomatoes are rich in antioxidants. And like most soups, it tastes better the day after.
SERVES: 4
INGREDIENTS
2 leeks
1 red bell pepper
3–4 potatoes
1 corn cob
1 tbsp butter (14 grams)
1 tbsp olive oil (15 ml)
6 cups chicken stock (1.4 L)
1 bay leaf
½ tsp dried oregano (2 grams)
salt and pepper
¼ cup heavy cream (60 ml)
fresh chives
DIRECTIONS
1 Wash and dice the leeks, red bell pepper, and potatoes. Cut the corn off the cob.
2 In a large pot, heat the butter and olive oil over medium-low heat.
3 Add the diced leek and cook for 5 minutes.
4 Add the red bell pepper and cook for 3 minutes.
5 Add the chicken stock, potatoes, corn, bay leaf, oregano, and a few pinches of salt and pepper.
6 Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 30 minutes.
7 Taste and season with salt and pepper.
8 Add heavy cream, stir, and remove from the heat.
9 Add some chopped chives and serve.
NOTE To wash the leeks, rinse off any surface dirt, then chop off the root. Cut each leek lengthwise and rinse away any dirt in between each of the leaves. For especially dirty leeks, dice them, then place them in a bowl of cold water and rub clean to dislodge any remaining dirt. Remove the cleaned leeks using a sieve or your hands.
SERVES: 2–3
INGREDIENTS
a handful of dried mushrooms
2 cups cold water
2 bay leaves
2 cloves of garlic
6 cups vegetable stock (1.4 L)
4–5 beets
2 tbsp oregano (24 grams)
6 black peppercorns
4 allspice berries
salt and pepper
¼ lemon
fresh parsley
eggs, tortellini, or baby potatoes (optional)
sour cream (optional)
DIRECTIONS
1 Rinse a handful of dried mushrooms and place in a bowl. Add cold water, bay leaves, and cloves of garlic, and leave to soak overnight.
2 Bring the vegetable stock (see pg 102) to a boil in a large pot.
3 Wash, peel, and dice the beets into large cubes and add to the vegetable stock.
4 Season with oregano, peppercorns, allspice, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the beets are tender.
5 Place the soaked mushrooms in a small pot with the water they were soaked in and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer for 15 minutes or until soft. Strain the stock, keeping both the mushrooms and the liquid separate. Discard the bay leaves and garlic.
6 Turn off the heat, remove the beets with a strainer or ladle, and add the mushroom stock. In a small cup, squeeze the lemon and slowly add to the soup one teaspoon at a time, stirring and tasting to see if you want more or less. (You may not need that much.)
7 Chop the mushrooms and beets, and a handful of fresh parsley, then add back to the soup.
8 Bring a pot of water to a boil and cook the eggs, tortellini or baby potatoes and serve with the soup. You can add a dollop of sour cream for a richer taste.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
1 free-range chicken breast
salt and pepper
5 cups chicken stock (1.2 L)
1 cup fresh or canned corn (120 grams)
2 tbsp soy sauce (30 ml)
1 tbsp cornstarch (12 grams)
2 eggs
2 scallions
½ tsp sesame oil (7 ml)
DIRECTIONS
1 Cut the chicken breast into small cubes and season with salt and pepper.
2 Bring the chicken stock to a boil.
3 Add the chicken to the boiling stock and cook for 15 minutes.
4 Finely dice the corn into smaller pieces and add to the soup. Continue to boil for 2 to 3 minutes, and reduce to a simmer.
5 In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce and cornstarch. Stir the soup while adding this mixture.
6 In a bowl, beat the eggs. Stir the soup, creating a whirlpool, and slowly pour in the eggs while continuing to stir. This will create fine threads.
7 Chop the scallions and add to the soup. Cook for 2 minutes.
8 Season with pepper and a few drops of sesame oil in each bowl (optional) and serve.
NOTE This is one of my favorite quick soups to make at home. From beginning to end, it takes 45 minutes. You don’t have to chop the corn, but I like to chop it because it adds a creamy texture. Feel free to replace the chicken with tofu or remove it all together. You can also replace the chicken stock with vegetable stock.
SERVES: 2–3
INGREDIENTS
1 onion
2 carrots
3 large potatoes
1½–2 lbs beef chuck (1 kg)
salt and pepper
½ tsp olive oil (3 ml)
8 cups beef stock (2 L)
1 tbsp tomato paste (14 grams)
2 cloves crushed garlic
½ tsp dried thyme (2 grams)
½ tsp dried oregano (2 grams)
¼ tsp salt (1 gram)
1 bay leaf
3 peppercorns
1 cup fresh or frozen peas (230 grams)
⅛ cup cornstarch (30 grams)
fresh baguette
DIRECTIONS
1 Dice the onion, carrots, and potatoes into 1-inch cubes.
2 Wash the beef and pat the meat dry using paper towels (this is very important). Cut the meat into cubes and season all sides with salt and pepper.
3 Heat olive oil in a large pan over high heat. Once the oil is very hot, add the beef and sear all of the sides (you will need to do this in batches so the meat doesn’t touch and stick together), then remove it to a plate to cool.
4 In the same pan, sauté the onion and carrots until lightly browned, then remove and place in a bowl.
5 Deglaze the pan using some of the beef stock and pour the fond into a soup pot. Add the rest of the beef stock, tomato paste, crushed garlic cloves, thyme, oregano, salt, bay leaf, peppercorns, and the cooked beef, then bring to a boil.
6 Reduce to a simmer and cook for 2 hours.
7 Add the vegetables and taste. Season very lightly with salt. (Note: Use less salt than needed because the liquids will reduce.) Cook for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.
8 Add the frozen or fresh peas.
9 In a cup, mix the cornstarch with some of the soup until there are no lumps. Add to the soup and cook for 10 minutes.
10 Serve with a fresh baguette.
NOTE Searing the meat on all sides is essential because it adds a huge amount of flavor. It also creates “fond” (pronounced “fahn”), which are the little caramelized bits of charred meat stuck to the pan. To incorporate them into the soup, you “deglaze” the pan using liquid and heat to dislodge them from the bottom (step 5).
SERVES: 4
INGREDIENTS
2 cans (28 oz each) whole peeled tomatoes
1 white onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (30 ml)
salt and pepper
¼ cup heavy cream (60 ml)
fresh baguette
DIRECTIONS
1 In a blender, combine the canned tomatoes, onion, and garlic. Blend until smooth. (This will look pink. That’s okay, it will redden as it cooks.)
2 Pour the tomato mixture into a large pot and bring to a boil.
3 Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Stir, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes.
4 Add the heavy cream, stir, and cook for 10 minutes. (Make sure it doesn’t boil.)
5 Chop the baguette into cubes.
6 Heat the remaining olive oil over medium heat and add the cubed baguette. Fry until golden and serve with the soup.
NOTE This soup doesn’t get much simpler! Thick in texture, you can also use this as a tomato sauce if you have a small amount left. It’s just too good to throw out. It will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
½ white onion
2 cups broccoli (1 head broccoli)
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tbsp olive oil (15 ml)
3 cups chicken broth (0.75 L)
5 tbsp butter (70 grams)
½ cup flour (65 grams)
½ cup milk (120 ml)
½ cup heavy cream (120 ml)
salt and pepper
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese (235 grams), plus additional shreds for serving
DIRECTIONS
1 Finely dice the onion and broccoli and mince the garlic.
2 Heat the olive oil in a soup pot over low heat and sauté the onion and minced garlic for 5 minutes.
3 Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer.
4 To make a roux, melt butter in a pan over medium-high heat and add the flour. Using a whisk or spoon, stir the butter and flour until a thick and even paste forms.
5 Add the roux to the soup and stir until well-combined.
6 Slowly add the milk and heavy cream.
7 Add the diced broccoli and season with salt and pepper to taste.
8 Add the shredded cheddar cheese and simmer for 10 minutes.
9 Serve with a few sprinkles of shredded Cheddar cheese and season to taste.
NOTE The soup will be light and watery until you add the roux. You will be surprised at just how thick the soup will become once you add this, so add slowly until you like the consistency.
SERVES: 4
INGREDIENTS
1 cup rice (235 grams), divided
4 cups chicken stock (1 L)
1 small white onion (or ½ large onion)
1 tsp canola or vegetable oil (5 ml)
4 cups tightly packed fresh spinach (200 grams)
½ cup heavy cream (120 ml)
1 tbsp lime juice (15 ml)
salt and pepper
DIRECTIONS
1 Boil the rice in 2 cups of chicken stock until cooked, then let it cool completely.
2 Chop the onion and sauté in canola or vegetable oil over medium heat in a large pan.
3 Add the spinach and cook for 5 to 8 minutes until the spinach has wilted.
4 Let the spinach cool completely.
5 In a blender, add the cooked onion and spinach, 2 cups chicken stock, ½ cup cooked rice, heavy cream, lime juice, and a few shakes of salt and pepper. Blend until smooth.
6 Pour the soup in a soup pot and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes.
7 In a bowl, place a scoop of rice, then add the spinach soup on top. You can add a few drops of heavy cream (optional) and serve immediately.
NOTE One of my best friends, Anja, made this for dinner when I visited her in Germany. I was quietly scared to eat it—it was sooo green! After I took my first spoonful, I was hooked. The rice balances the dense, rich taste, and adds great texture, but be warned—it’s very filling.
SERVES: 4
INGREDIENTS
½ white onion
2 carrots
3 celery stalks
2–3 potatoes
½ cup + 3 tbsp butter (155 grams)
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (45 ml)
3 cans (6.5 oz each) of chopped clams (0.18 kg each)
2 cups milk (480 ml)
2 cups heavy cream (480 ml)
⅓ cup flour (43 grams)
salt and pepper
chives
oyster crackers
DIRECTIONS
1 Finely dice the onion, carrot, and celery. Cut the potatoes into cubes.
2 Sauté the onion, carrot, and celery in 3 tablespoons of butter and olive oil over medium-low heat for 5 minutes.
3 Strain the clams, reserving the clam juices, and add the juices to the sautéed vegetables. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 10 to 15 minutes. Put the clams aside for the moment.
4 In a pot, melt ½ cup butter over medium heat and whisk in the 2 cups of milk and 2 cups of heavy cream until smooth.
5 Add the vegetables with the clam juice to the pot and stir. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes.
6 Stir in the clams and cook for 10 minutes.
7 In a cup, combine the flour with a few ladles of soup and whisk until smooth. Then add to the soup and stir. Continue to simmer for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
8 Serve with freshly chopped chives and oyster crackers.
NOTE Making clam chowder from scratch is not as difficult as you would think. Unlike the restaurant versions, this soup has a slightly sweet and unique taste (thanks to the carrots) that I’ve yet to find in a restaurant.
