WE’VE REACHED THE D-WORD. ALL THE EARLIER CHAPTERS HAVE LED UP TO THIS, SO LET’S talk about managing our expectations. Everybody has a different idea of what dinner is and should be. My perspective about this meal has changed dramatically, from being a total time-suck to an opportunity to create, nourish, and connect with myself and my family. This change in attitude has been the most fulfilling aspect of my entire cooking journey.
I had this notion that dinner was a magical time, when you’d gather around a perfectly curated table with family and friends and feel loved while eating some meat and vegetables. This meal would be calculated for maximum health and balance, based on the USDA Food Guide Pyramid, and then we’d all laugh and ask about each other’s days.
I grew up on shows like Family Matters and Full House, and contrary to my own real experience, I still thought this was what I’d eventually get to do when I grew up. However, that food guide was totally messed up, and who is going to make all that food, set the table, and get everyone to sit down at the same time?
Real dinner isn’t all white-toothed smiles and freshly steamed broccoli. Sometimes it’s misshapen vegetables and a glass of wine by myself at 3 p.m., sometimes it’s a cold-cut sandwich in my car or at my desk, and sometimes it’s a really healthy juice and nothing else. Reality, meet empty fridge.
I still have that idea of the perfect dinner in my heart, but life has taught me that it doesn’t have to be perfect. In fact, it can be simple and easy, which is more my style anyway. My real-life cooking experiences have always been defined by time constraints. It wasn’t a choice: Make time to paint and therefore order out, or spend time in the kitchen (especially not in NYC, with the ease and convenience of free delivery and Seamless take-out).
I had felt that cooking was a waste of my valuable time. That all changed when I started asking troubling questions like: Is learning how to feed myself really so terrible? or Why do I continue to want certain things and then do nothing to create those situations? Is working nonstop as meaningful and worthwhile as I am telling myself?
These are all questions that you need to answer for yourself, but my conclusion was that if I ever wanted those magazine-worthy dinner scenes, I would need to take responsibility and create them. First, learn how to cook some dinners. And once I made time for that, they weren’t as time-consuming as I had expected.
Baked meals like roasted chicken will take a while to cook, but it’s not like you’re staring at the oven the entire time. You can do other things and let the oven do all the work. To make pasta from scratch takes half an hour, then an hour of waiting, and then it’s ready to be cut and cooked. Making dinner is really not that big of a deal—it’s figuring out what to cook and then gathering people together that is the hardest part.
Some other things I learned about making dinner: It tastes a hundred times better than anything you can buy at a restaurant (give or take a few exceptions) and is a fraction of the cost. There’s no way you can get Korean bulgogi in the quantities we all want to eat it at a restaurant for less than it costs to make it at home, even if you buy the choicest beef. That pasta dish costs pennies to make and will only be as good as the restaurant chef, and not tailored to your personal preference.
Not that I don’t love going out to eat, but if you’re comparing quality to cost, cooking at home will always be the better choice. Aside from ramen (the alkaline water-based, fresh noodles in a full-bodied broth that has been cooking for 2 days) and other specialized foods that take a long time to cook or need to be made in large quantities, you can make most five-star dishes in the comfort of your own home. And for me, it’s better to spend the extra money on nice table settings and linen.
Here are some of the dinners that I make on a regular basis and have happily cooked for small dinner parties or romantic meals in the garden.
One big thing I eventually learned were the types of meat and where they are on an animal. This is super relevant, since the location of these cuts determines the texture, price, and ultimately how to cook them. For example, you’re not going to use a NY strip for a beef stew. It doesn’t make sense economically and won’t taste as good in a stew as the cheap chuck cut. Here’s the breakdown.
1—Blade Shoulder: a.k.a. “Boston butt” or “pork butt,” even though this is from the front leg. Mostly used for pulled pork.
2—Arm Shoulder: a.k.a. “picnic ham,” which is usually cured and smoked.
3—Loin: A cut along the top of the rib cage, made into pork chops or steaks, pork tenderloin, Canadian bacon, or baby back ribs.
4—Ribs: These are the spare ribs, St. Louis ribs, Kansas City-style ribs, and rib tips. They tend to be flatter and fattier than baby back ribs.
5—Belly: This cut is used for pork belly, bacon, side pork, and pancetta.
6—Leg: a.k.a. “ham.” It also is used for pork leg, pork cutlets, strips, cubes, and roasts, and can be purchased with or without the bone.
7—Hocks & Trotters: A ham hock, a.k.a. “pork knuckle,” is the shank portion of the pig leg. Mostly made of skin and tendons, it needs to be cooked for a long time. Trotters are the pig feet, used to make stocks and gravy.
1—Chuck: Chuck steak and chuck roast are the more economical cuts. Great for stewing, slow cooking, or braising. Also used as ground beef, chuck eye, cross-rib, top blade, and shoulder/arm roast.
2—Brisket: This is the breast or lower chest area and is a tough cut, with a lot of connective tissue because it carries much of the cow’s body weight while the cow is standing. This cut takes preparation to use, and it is typically marinated and cooked slowly as corned beef, stew meat, or BBQ.
3—Shank: This includes the foreshank and the hind shank, and the meat tends to be tough and sinewy, making this cut cheap. It needs to be cooked for a long time in liquid. Great for a stew or making stock.
4—Rib: A primal cut of bone-in beef, sold as rib steak (a.k.a. rib-eye or cowboy cut) or short ribs.
5—Plate: Plate cut (or short plate) is from the belly of the cow, used for skirt steaks, hanger steaks, or pastrami. Typically cheap, tough, and fatty.
6—Short Loin: This includes the top loin and the tenderloin (including the coveted filet mignon, the most expensive of cuts) and is used to make porterhouse, strip steak (like NY Strip), and T-bone.
7—Sirloin: Steaks cut from the rear back to make top sirloin and bottom sirloin. This also includes some of the tenderloin.
8—Flank: A cut from the abdominal muscles. Typically long and flat. It can be grilled, fried, broiled, or braised, and it is best sliced against the grain.
9—Round: From the rear of the cow, this cut is lean and tough. It is divided into top round steak/roast, bottom round steak/roast, and rump.
If unsure about whether meat is thoroughly cooked and safe to eat (excluding rare meats, which should be cooked using very fresh meat), take the temperature using a food thermometer. Be sure to measure from the center of the thickest part of the meat.
Fish: 145 °F
Steaks, Roasts, Chops: 145 °F
Pork: 145 °F
Ground Beef, Pork, Veal, Lamb: 160 °F
Ground Turkey, Chicken: 165 °F
Chicken/Poultry: 165 °F
How to Sear Meat: This technique is essential for making whatever meat you’re cooking more flavorful. Think caramelized, deep brown, crispy yumminess. To do this properly, pat your meat dry beforehand using paper towels, and use a very small coating of oil (applied with a brush, spray, or paper towel). You should barely see it and it should be evenly spread over your pan. Then place your pan over VERY high heat!
Only when the oil starts to smoke should you add the meat. (You may also need to open some windows). And don’t crowd the pan. Give the pieces of meat enough space so they don’t overlap or touch. Lastly, be patient. Once you’ve added the meat, let it sit for a few minutes until it gets that golden brown color. It needs to stick to the pan to cook properly, but it will release when seared—then you can flip. Don’t forget the sides of the meat, either.
SERVES: 8
INGREDIENTS
fresh or packaged lasagna noodles
3–4 cups tomato or Classic Bolognese sauce (pg 180) (720-960 ml)
2 cups mozzarella cheese (400 grams)
2 cups ricotta cheese (480 grams)
½ cup Parmesan cheese (100 grams)
fresh parsley
DIRECTIONS
1 If using store-bought lasagna noodles, cook in salted boiling water according to the package. If using Homemade Pasta (pg 162) or the no-boil store-bought noodles, skip this step.
2 Preheat the oven to 350 °F (180 °C).
3 To assemble the lasagna, layer the noodles, sauce, ricotta cheese, and mozzerella cheese, and repeat until all the ingredients are used up.
4 Bake uncovered for 30 to 45 minutes or until the cheese has melted. If you want the top browned, broil for 3 to 5 minutes.
5 Let the lasagna cool for 10 minutes. Serve with Parmesan cheese and fresh parsley.
NOTE If you use the Homemade Pasta (pg 162) then you do not need to cook the dough beforehand. If you buy lasagna noodles, I suggest the no-boil option for the best outcome. I also suggest using fresh mozzarella cheese, the kind that comes in a large ball shape, rather than the shredded option.
SERVES: 4
INGREDIENTS
1 whole chicken
¼ cup sugar (55 grams)
½ cup salt (100 grams)
4 cups water (2 cups warm, 2 cups cold) (1 L)
2 tbsp olive oil (30 ml)
salt and pepper
a few sprigs of rosemary
DIRECTIONS
1 Wash the chicken inside and out, and remove any giblets. (Some whole chickens will include a small pouch in the cavity of the chicken that contains the liver, heart, and gizzard, which are called the giblets. Be sure to remove these before roasting.)
2 To make the brine: Combine sugar, salt, and 2 cups warm water. Mix well until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Add 2 cups of cold water and ice and make sure the solution is cool, then add the chicken. The chicken needs to be completely submerged. I like to place it in a large pot and flip the lid upside down with a weight on top. This way, the handle keeps the meat under the water. Let it soak for 4 to 5 hours on the counter.
3 Line a roasting pan with aluminum foil and place at the bottom of the oven to catch any drippings.
4 Preheat the oven to 350 °F (180 °C) and place a rack in the center.
5 Remove the chicken from the brine and pat dry with paper towels.
6 Rub all over with olive oil and season liberally with salt and pepper. Stuff the cavity with rosemary.
7 Once the oven is heated, place the chicken breast-side down, directly on the rack.
8 Bake for 2 hours or until the chicken is nicely browned and the internal temperature is 165 °F (74 °C). (It will sizzle a lot and make the house smell like chicken and rosemary. This method is a bit messy, since the drippings get on the rack. Alternatively, you can purchase a vertical roaster, which will also get all the sides evenly crispy without as much of a mess.)
9 Carefully remove the chicken from the oven and let it cool for 10 minutes.
NOTE This is the most frequently cooked dish in my house, hands down! It’s easy, cheap, and usually provides leftovers for Balsamic Chicken Salad (pg 58), soups (pgs 102–125), Chicken Gyoza (pg 136), Chicken Enchiladas (pg 166), etc.
A brine is a concentrated solution of salt and water, and it hydrates the meat, yielding a moist, tender chicken.
MAKES: LOTS OF PASTA
INGREDIENTS
1 cup white flour (128 grams)
1 cup semolina flour (128 grams)
⅛ tsp salt (0.5 grams)
3 eggs
olive oil
DIRECTIONS
1 Combine the white flour, semolina flour, and salt on a clean, flat surface and mix with your hands, then make a small well (hole) in the center of the flour mixture.
2 Crack the eggs into the well and, using a fork, whisk the flour and eggs until they become chunky.
3 Knead the dough until well-combined. This should take about 15 minutes. (You should be sweating a bit—that dough is tough, but it will soften later.)
4 Roll the dough into a ball and rub a little olive oil over the surface. Cover in plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature for 1 hour.
5 Lightly dust the counter with flour and divide the dough into quarters. Roll out each piece into long, thin strips. Try to get it as thin as possible. (You may need to use a few light dustings of semolina flour to prevent sticking.)
6 Cut into any pasta shape that you want, or store in an airtight container for up to 1 week. If making long noodles, cut the dough into a long rectangle, and roll it up, creating a cylinder. Then cut into strips, which will unravel into long strands.
7 To cook, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add a few drops of olive oil. Gently drop in the pasta and cook to desired texture. (The pasta should cook more quickly than the dried, store-bought kind. To test, remove one noodle and taste.)
8 Drain the pasta and top with your favorite sauce.
NOTE The key to this recipe is to use the “well method” (Step 2). You make a mound of flour, then hollow out a hole in the center, creating a crevice large enough to hold the eggs. Then, using a fork, gently mix, using small circular motions around the edges of the eggs until they are too thick to mix with a fork. Then start kneading.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
2–4 artichokes
2 cups breadcrumbs (400 grams)
½ tsp oregano (2 grams)
½ tbsp Parmesan cheese (7 grams)
2 garlic cloves, minced
salt and pepper
1 tbsp olive oil (15 ml)
DIRECTIONS
1 Cut the tips of each outer artichoke leaf with scissors. Using a knife, chop the top ½ inch off the artichoke, and shorten the stem so there is only an inch from the base of the artichoke to the bottom of the stem.
2 Thoroughly wash the artichokes. This is very important! Gently open each leaf (make sure they stay attached) and rinse inside, particularly in the center “choke” area.
3 In a bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, oregano, Parmesan cheese, minced garlic, a few shakes of salt and pepper, and olive oil. Stir. Stuff the mixture in between each artichoke leaf and in the center. It’s okay if some of the stuffing falls out but try to pack it in as much as you can.
4 You need a deep pot with a lid, in order to make sure that the artichokes will be completely covered. Place the artichokes upright and as straight as possible, so the stuffing doesn’t fall out. Add some water to the pot until it reaches the base of the leafy part of the artichokes, and bring it to a boil. Then reduce to a simmer and cover with a lid.
5 Cook for 1 hour. (Be sure to check every 15 to 20 minutes to make sure there is enough water in the pot. If not, add more water, or your pot will burn.)
6 Test if the artichokes are done by carefully removing one of the leaves from the middle of the artichoke. If it pulls out easily and the fleshy part is soft, then it’s ready. Remove with a large slotted spoon or tongs and let the artichokes cool for 5 to 10 minutes, then serve.
NOTE My grandma was a really amazing woman and cook. I loved it when she’d make this recipe and always thought it was so much fun to eat. There are some important things to know if you’ve never cooked or eaten an artichoke. When selecting, choose artichokes that are compact (if the leaves are open it won’t be as tasty). To consume, you pull the outer leaves off the plant and scrape the meaty parts off with your teeth. Eventually, you will get to the center, called the “choke,” which you do NOT eat! It is yellow, prickly, and hairy-looking—spoon that part out. Underneath will be the “heart,” and you eat the entire thing, stem included. This dish also reheats well. You can store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
SERVES: 4
INGREDIENTS
1 white onion
2–3 bell peppers
2–3 cups cooked chicken (250-375 grams)
1 tbsp olive oil (15 ml)
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 tsp chili powder (36 grams)
2 tsp ground cumin (8 grams)
2 tsp sugar (8 grams)
1 can (28 oz) tomato sauce (0.8 L)
1 cup water
salt and pepper
2 cups shredded cheddar cheese (250 grams)
½ cup fresh cilantro
6–8 flour tortillas
DIRECTIONS
1 Chop the onion and bell peppers. Shred the cooked chicken.
2 Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-low heat and sauté the onions and peppers for 3 to 5 minutes.
3 Stir in minced garlic, chili powder, ground cumin, and sugar.
4 Add the tomato sauce and water and bring to a simmer.
5 Preheat the oven to 400 °F (200 °C).
6 Add the chicken, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until the sauce thickens.
7 Using a strainer with a bowl underneath, strain the mixture to create the enchilada sauce. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
8 Place the strained chicken in a separate bowl and add 3 to 4 tbsp of the enchilada sauce, 1 cup of shredded cheddar cheese, and chopped cilantro. Stir.
9 Warm the tortillas in the microwave or in a large pan over low heat to make them flexible.
10 Spoon the chicken mixture into the tortillas, roll them up, and place them in a tight row in a baking dish.
11 Pour the enchilada sauce on top and sprinkle with 1 cup of shredded cheese.
12 Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 20 minutes, then remove the aluminum foil and bake until the cheese is nicely melted.
13 Serve with cooked rice and beans.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
a large handful of dried linguine
a pinch of salt
1 tsp olive oil (5 ml)
1 cup pancetta (250 grams)
⅓ cup fresh peas (70 grams)
2 eggs
1 tbsp grated Pecorino Romano cheese (12 grams)
coarse pepper
DIRECTIONS
1 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the linguine. Add 1 tsp olive oil to the water to prevent the strands from sticking.
2 In a large pan, sauté the pancetta over medium-high heat until crispy.
3 Add the peas, stir, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes.
4 In a large bowl, crack the eggs, add the Pecorino Romano, and whisk together.
5 Once the pasta is cooked, reserve ⅛ cup of the pasta water and then strain the pasta.
6 Quickly add the pasta to the egg mixture and stir so the eggs thicken into a sauce. If you want the sauce to be more liquid, add the reserved pasta water and continue stirring.
7 Add the pancetta and peas, stir, and season with coarse pepper. Serve immediately.
NOTE For such a simple recipe, it took me a few tries to get this right. Timing is key to this dish. You need to add the pasta while it’s still hot enough to heat the egg, otherwise it will be a soupy mess. However, you don’t want the pasta to be too hot or it will cook the egg and be chunky. Practice makes perfect.
SERVES: 4
INGREDIENTS
2 cups light buckwheat flour (250 grams)
2 cups water (500 ml)
1½ tsp coarse sea salt (7.5 grams)
1 egg yolk
1 tbsp olive oil (15 ml)
4 fresh eggs
salted butter
4 tbsp grated Gruyère cheese
4 slices ham
DIRECTIONS
1 In a large bowl, combine the buckwheat flour and coarse sea salt. Slowly add the water and beat with a wooden spoon. The batter will be elastic and heavy. You’ll need some good muscles and patience as you beat the batter for 10 minutes. The longer you beat, the lighter the batter will become. Then cover with plastic wrap and let it sit in the refrigerator for 4 to 5 hours or overnight.
2 Separate one egg. Put the egg white aside for a different use. In a small bowl, combine the yolk with the olive oil and whisk. (Or you can just use olive oil.)
3 Heat a large pan until it’s uniformly very hot. Test by flicking water onto the pan—it should sizzle and evaporate. Grease the pan by dipping a rolled-up paper towel into the oil/egg mixture and carefully rub it across the pan, or just use oil.
4 Ladle the batter onto the surface and roll the pan to spread the mixture as thinly as possible, or use a râteau if you have one. Once the edges curl up and the bottom is browned, carefully run your spatula underneath and flip.
5 Slather with butter, then add an egg (you can break apart the white a little or spread it so it cooks more quickly), then the cheese, then the ham. Repeat 4 times. It’s nice to sprinkle the cheese to the sides so it gets that lovely crispness!
6 Fold like an envelope, leaving the middle open (see painting). Eat while hot!
NOTE This amazing recipe is from a good friend, Sanaë Lemoine, and has been passed down from generation to generation in her family. Galettes are similar to crêpes, but use buckwheat instead of white flour. You can fill them with just about anything, but I prefer the Lemoine way, with a fresh slice of ham and a lightly cooked egg.
SERVES: 4
INGREDIENTS
1 yellow onion
1 red pepper
1 yellow pepper
1 zucchini
2 heirloom tomatoes
a few tsp olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 bay leaf
5 sprigs fresh thyme
salt and pepper
¼ cup dry white wine (60 ml)
4 eggs
DIRECTIONS
1 Finely dice the onion, peppers, zucchini, and tomatoes.
2 In a large pot, heat a few teaspoons of olive oil and cook the onions over medium-low heat, until translucent.
3 Add the peppers, stir, and cook for 3 minutes.
4 Add the zucchini, minced garlic, bay leaf, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Stir and cook for 5 minutes.
5 Add the chopped tomatoes and dry white wine. Lower the heat, cover, and cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
6 Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve traditionally with a sunny-side up egg and fresh baguette (optional).
NOTE When I make this I tend to make a lot so I will have leftovers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, like so:
Breakfast: With hash browns or fried potatoes and a poached egg.
Lunch: Over a bed of spinach with a slice of toast or fresh baguette.
Dinner: Over pasta with Parmesan cheese and a glass of wine.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
½ lb grass-fed Angus steak, NY strip (225 grams)
½ tsp ground black pepper (2 grams)
½ tsp dried thyme (2 grams)
½ tsp garlic powder (2 grams)
½ tsp chili powder (2 grams)
¼ tsp sea salt (1 grams)
1 sprig fresh rosemary
2 garlic cloves
2 tbsps extra-virgin olive oil (30 ml)
5 tbsp butter (70 grams)
DIRECTIONS
1 Using a very sharp knife, trim off the the fat and gristle.
2 Combine the ground pepper, dried thyme, garlic powder, chili powder, and sea salt. Mix until well-combined.
3 Rub the steak with the spice mixture and rosemary.
4 Cut the garlic cloves in quarters and set aside.
5 Heat olive oil in a large nonstick pan over high heat. Wait until it is very hot and smoking.
6 Using kitchen tongs, carefully place the steak on the pan. (Be careful, it will splatter, so put the steak down and away from you.)
7 Sear the steak for 1 to 2 minutes on all sides. (Make sure the meat is browned, but not burned. A good guideline for cooking a steak is that you want the surface of the steak to be firm, with the middle tender and flexible).
8 Lower the heat to medium and add the garlic cloves to the pan.
9 Add 3 tbsp of butter. Carefully tilt the pan sideways and spoon the butter mixture onto the steak. This is called basting, and you want to do it for 1 minute, then flip and baste the other side for 1 minute.
10 Turn off the heat, and place the steak on a cutting board. Let it rest for 3 to 5 minutes (depending on the thickness of the steak).
11 Slice the steak to stop it from cooking and serve immediately.
NOTE Steaks need time to rest on a cool surface, which will allow the juices to absorb into the meat instead of spilling out, as they would if the meat were cut immediately. These juices make a steak taste better, so patience = flavor.
SERVES: 6–8
INGREDIENTS
1 can (28 oz) whole peeled tomatoes (0.8 L)
1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil (5 ml)
salt and pepper
2 eggplants
2–3 eggs
3 cups breadcrumbs (600 grams)
canola oil
2–3 cups shredded mozzarella cheese (400–600 grams)
fresh basil
DIRECTIONS
1 In a blender, purée the whole peeled tomatoes with olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper.
2 Wash and slice the eggplants into ⅛- to ¼-inch thick pieces.
3 In a bowl, whisk eggs (depending on how large the eggplants are).
4 Pour the breadcrumbs onto a plate. (Keep handy because you may need more.)
5 Heat a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat and add canola oil.
6 Wait until the pan is hot, then dip an eggplant slice into the egg and then the bread crumbs so the entire slice is coated. Place in the pan. Repeat until you fill the pan with eggplant slices and fry both sides. Remove the eggplant to a plate and pat down with paper towels. Repeat in batches until all the eggplant is cooked.
7 Preheat the oven to 350 °F (180 °C).
8 In a 2-quart baking dish, layer tomato sauce, eggplant, and mozzarella cheese. Continue layering until all the eggplant is used and bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the cheese is melted.
9 Serve with fresh basil and any extra tomato sauce.
NOTE This recipe is my mom Rosemary’s dish, and something I look forward to eating whenever I go home. It’s a labor of love since it takes a while to fry all the eggplant, but afterwards you’ll have a lot of leftovers to use throughout the week. It goes well over pasta or as a cold or hot sandwich. Store in an airtight container for up to 5 days.
SERVES: 2–3
INGREDIENTS
3–4 potatoes
2 tbsp butter (28 grams)
¼ cup heavy cream (60 ml)
salt and pepper
3–4 pork tenderloins
1 cup flour (128 grams)
2 eggs
2 cups breadcrumbs (400 grams)
canola oil
pickles (optional)
DIRECTIONS
1 Peel and chop the potatoes into cubes.
2 Place the potatoes in a pot of boiling water, reduce to a simmer, and cook until tender.
3 Drain the water and, using a masher or fork, mash the potatoes. They should give easily. Add the butter and the heavy cream and whip with a fork until fluffy. Season with salt to taste. (The salt makes it delicious, but the dish can become too salty very easily, so add little by little.)
4 Cut the fat from the pork and place the tenderloins in between two sheets of plastic wrap. Using a meat tenderizer, pound until the chops are about ¼ inch thick.
5 Season each side with a good pinch of salt and pepper and rub into the meat.
6 Coat each side of the meat with flour and shake off the excess.
7 Set up a workstation, because the frying happens fast. Whisk the eggs in a bowl, pour some breadcrumbs on a plate, and set up two large pans, one with a lid. Coat 1 pan with 2 tsp canola oil over medium-high heat. Place the other pan over low heat and cover (this will be used to keep the cutlets warm).
8 Once that is all ready to go, dip one of the pork chops in the egg until covered, then dip in the breadcrumbs, and place on the hot pan. Fry each side for about 3 to 5 minutes or until a golden crust forms, then place in the second pan to keep warm. You will need to fry in batches, so repeat these steps for all the cutlets.
9 Depending on how many cutlets you have, you may need to add more oil and clean the pan in between cooking, using a paper towel (be careful not to burn yourself).
10 Serve the pork cutlets and mashed potatoes with pickles for the traditional Polish experience.
INGREDIENTS
2 carrots
3 celery stalks
1 onion
2 tbsp butter
2 tbsp olive oil (30 ml)
¼ lb ground pork (120 grams)
¼ lb ground veal (120 grams)
¼ lb ground beef (120 grams)
salt and pepper
1 can (6 oz) tomato paste (170 grams)
1 cup milk (240 ml)
1½ cup dry white wine (optional) (360 ml)
dried spaghetti
fresh basil
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
DIRECTIONS
1 Mince the carrot, celery, and onion.
2 Heat the butter and olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the vegetables and stir frequently. Cook for 20 minutes. (Make sure this does not burn!)
3 Add the ground pork, veal, and beef, and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Break apart the chunks using your spoon or spatula and cook over low heat for 40 minutes. Then raise the heat to medium and cook for 10 more minutes to slightly brown the meat. (This last part is optional: I like a more browned taste to my meat.)
4 Taste and season with salt and pepper. Add the tomato paste, stir until well-combined, and cook for 20 minutes over low heat.
5 Add the milk and cook for 5 to 8 minutes, until the milk has evaporated, and season again to taste. (At this point, you can stop here and eat it as is, so make sure it’s well-seasoned and delicious. But if you want a thinner sauce, continue on.)
6 Add the white wine and cook until the alcohol has evaporated, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Taste again and season with salt and pepper.
7 Cook the pasta in boiling water according to the package. (Or follow the Homemade Pasta recipe on pg 162.)
8 Add the pasta to the sauce and stir until everything is coated.
9 Serve with fresh basil and Parmesan cheese.
NOTE The key to this recipe is the carrot, celery, and onion combination, known as a “mirepoix” (pronounced meer-pwah). This trio of veggies is used to add flavor and aroma to stocks and sauces. It should be cooked over very low heat, and if it burns then you might as well start all over again.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
1 corn on the cob
1 shallot
2 garlic cloves
a handful of fresh tarragon
8 large sea scallops
salt and pepper
1 tbsp + 1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil (35 ml)
¼ cup dry white wine (60 ml)
¼ cup heavy cream (60 ml)
DIRECTIONS
1 Cut the corn off the cob and mince the shallot and garlic. Finely chop the tarragon leaves.
2 Season both sides of the sea scallops with salt and pepper.
3 Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the corn and lightly sauté.
4 Add the shallot and garlic and stir. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes.
5 Add the dry white wine, heavy cream, and tarragon. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the sauce thickens, about 5 minutes.
6 Lightly oil a pan over medium-high heat and cook the scallops on each side for 2 to 3 minutes or until caramelized and opaque.
7 Spoon the corn mixture on the plate and place the scallops on top. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
NOTE Tarragon tastes great with seafood. It is essential that you use fresh tarragon, which has a light anise or licorice flavor, reminiscent of fennel. The creamy, crunchy corn mixture, paired with the delicate texture of the scallops, makes this a transcendent dish for such a simple and quick recipe.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
½ white onion
4 oz thinly sliced beef (sirloin, eye round or rib eye)
2 garlic cloves
¼ inch piece ginger, peeled
2 tbsp soy sauce (30 ml)
2 tsp mirin (10 ml)
1 tbsp sugar (15 grams)
4 tsp sesame oil (20 ml)
1 tsp raw sesame seeds (4 grams)
coarsely ground pepper
½ zucchini
1 carrot
¼ tsp salt (1 gram)
3–4 shiitake mushrooms
1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil (5 ml)
toasted sesame seeds (see pg 71)
large butter lettuce leaves
cooked rice (optional)
DIRECTIONS
1 Thinly slice the onion, and beef into thin strips. Mince the garlic and ginger.
2 Combine the soy sauce, mirin, sugar, 2 teaspoons sesame oil, raw sesame seeds, minced garlic, minced ginger, and a pinch of coarsely ground pepper in a bowl. Add the onions and beef and marinate for 1 hour in the refrigerator.
3 Cut the zucchini and carrot lengthwise into thin strips and season with salt. Place in a bowl and leave for 10 to 15 minutes to remove the water.
4 Wash and slice the mushrooms.
5 Rinse the salt from the zucchini and carrot and squeeze out the water. In a large pan, cook the vegetables in 2 teaspoons sesame oil over medium-high heat for about 3 to 5 minutes, then place on a plate to cool.
6 Traditional bulgogi is grilled. However, if this is not an option, you can pan fry. In the same pan used to cook the vegetables, heat the olive oil over high heat. Once the pan is hot, add the beef strips and sear each side, then remove to the vegetable plate. (Use tongs so that you keep the marinade in the bowl. You may need to do this in batches.)
7 Reduce the heat to medium and add the mushrooms, sautéing until the water has evaporated. Then add the zucchini, carrots, and the marinade juices and cook for 3 to 5 minutes.
8 Add the meat back to the pan. Season with coarsely ground pepper and stir. Cook for 1 minute.
9 Season with toasted sesame seeds and serve wrapped in a large butter lettuce leaf with a side of rice.
NOTE The hardest part of this recipe will probably be finding the meat. Bulgogi meat is either rib eye, sirloin, or a tender cut, sliced very thin (⅛ to ¼ inch). It is sold pre-cut in Asian markets, but you can use thin flank or skirt steaks, or just ask your butcher to slice the meat for you. Buy meat with some marbling (the intramuscular fat in the beef that looks like marble) and don’t overcook it.
SERVES: 6
INGREDIENTS
1 piece of white bread
½ cup milk (120 ml)
½ lb ground beef (225 grams)
¼ lb ground pork (113 grams)
a bunch of fresh parsley
1 tbsp dried dill (12 grams)
1 egg
2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
5–6 mushrooms
2 tbsp butter (28 grams)
2 tbsp flour (16 grams)
2 cups beef stock (480 ml)
¼–½ cup sour cream (60-120 ml)
salt and pepper
DIRECTIONS
1 Soak the bread in a bowl of milk. (You may need to cut it up to get it all submerged.)
2 In a large bowl, combine the ground beef and ground pork and mix well.
3 Finely chop some parsley. Squeeze the milk out of the bread. Add the parsley, dill, and bread to the ground meat mixture.
4 Crack an egg into the bowl with the ground meat and mix well. Then refrigerate for 1 hour to stiffen.
5 Roll the meat into balls. (The smaller they are, the faster they will cook.)
6 Heat a large pan with olive oil over high heat. Once hot, add the meatballs and toss frequently until all the sides are browned and the meat is cooked through. Then remove to a plate to cool.
7 Wash and slice the mushrooms. In the same pan, cook the mushrooms over high heat until all the water has evaporated.
8 Add the butter and, once melted, whisk in the flour to make a roux.
9 Add the beef stock, stir, and cook for 5 minutes.
10 Add the sour cream and stir, then add the meatballs back to the pan. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. (If too thick, add more stock. If too thin, add 1 tsp flour or sour cream.)
11 Serve with fresh parsley.
NOTE The key to making tender, springy meatballs is to use a “panade” a.k.a “panada.” This is made from bread soaked in milk, and it is combined with ground meats to add moisture and bind the ingredients together. Also, make sure the meatballs are fully cooked inside by slicing one open to see if it’s cooked through.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
2 lbs small clams (1 kg)
2 garlic cloves
1 shallot
a handful of fresh parsley
a handful of dried spaghetti
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (45 ml)
1 tbsp butter (14 grams)
⅛ tsp red pepper flakes (0.5 grams)
¼ cup dry white wine (60 ml)
salt and pepper
DIRECTIONS
1 When you’re ready to cook the clams, remove them from the refrigerator and check each clam carefully to make sure they are alive. Only cook live clams! (The clams should be closed tightly. If they are open, tap the shell or try squeezing closed gently to see if the clam will close by itself. If it doesn’t close after doing these things, discard it.)
2 Scrub and rinse the clams, then soak them for 30 minutes in cold water to filter out any salt or sand. Drain and rinse thoroughly again. You can repeat this one more time to make sure the clams are cleaned of sand and grit.
3 Mince the garlic and shallot. Chop the parsley.
4 Bring a pot of water to a boil and cook the pasta for 2 minutes less than the recommended time on the package, or so it is almost al dente (cooked but firm). Drain and drizzle a little olive oil on the pasta, then toss to prevent sticking.
5 Simultaneously, heat olive oil and butter over high heat in a large pan. Sauté the shallot for 1 to 2 minutes. Add a pinch of red pepper flakes, the clams, wine, and garlic. Stir, cover, and cook for 5 to 8 minutes.
6 Once the clams open, use tongs and place them on a plate.
7 Add the pasta and parsley to the clam liquids and cook for 2 minutes or until the liquids have evaporated and been absorbed. Add the clams back to the pan and stir. Drizzle a little bit of olive oil (optional) and season with salt, pepper, and fresh parsley.
8 Serve immediately.
NOTE Right after bringing the live clams home, make sure to place them in a bowl in the refrigerator, uncovered, so they can breathe. You want to cook them within a day of purchasing. As I mentioned in the recipe, it’s very important to only eat live clams. Remove any clams that have cracked shells or are open before cooking them. And once they are cooked, if there are clams that do not open, discard these also.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
4 sprigs fresh rosemary
3 garlic cloves
1 tsp dried oregano (4 grams)
½ cup olive oil (120 ml)
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar (15 ml)
1 lemon
salt and pepper
4 1-inch thick lamb chops
2 tbsp butter (24 grams)
1 tbsp olive oil (15 ml)
4 sprigs fresh thyme
DIRECTIONS
1 Remove the rosemary leaves from the stems and chop them finely. Mince the garlic.
2 In a shallow bowl or flat container, combine the chopped rosemary, garlic, dried oregano, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, the juice of 1 lemon, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Whisk together, then add the lamb chops and rub the marinade into the meat. Make sure the lamb is well-coated, then cover and refrigerate overnight.
3 Remove the meat from the refrigerator and let it warm to room temperature before cooking.
4 Preheat the oven to 400 ºF (200 ºC).
5 Heat the butter and olive oil in a large pan over high heat. Once hot, sear each side of the meat and baste by spooning the butter-oil mixture on top of the lamb until nicely browned.
6 Place the chops in a baking dish, then coat with the liquids from the pan and a few sprigs of fresh thyme. Bake for 15 to 35 minutes (depending on the thickness of the meat and how rare you want it). Be sure to test using a thermometer to determine when the chops are done, then let them cool for 5 minutes before serving.
NOTE This recipe sears the lamb, creating a nice crust, and finishes the cooking process in the oven. Make sure the meat is at room temperature before cooking, otherwise you’ll need to cook it much longer. The internal temperatures should be: medium-rare = 145 ºF (63 ºC), medium = 160 ºF (72 ºC), well-done = 170 ºF (77 ºC).
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
2 boneless free-range chicken breasts
salt and pepper
¼ cup flour (32 grams)
2 garlic cloves, minced
¼ tsp salt (1 gram)
¼ tsp black pepper (1 gram)
¼ tsp dried oregano (1 gram)
3–4 white or cremini mushrooms
a few sprigs fresh parsley
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (30 ml)
2 tbsp butter (28 grams)
½ cup dry marsala wine (120 ml)
DIRECTIONS
1 If you have a thick cut of chicken breast, you may want to cut it in half horizontally and pound it down, to create thinner and therefore quicker-cooking meat. Season both sides of each chicken breast with some salt and pepper.
2 In a bowl, combine the flour, minced garlic, salt, pepper, and dried oregano.
3 Wash and slice the mushrooms thinly and chop the parsley.
4 Heat olive oil in a large pan over high heat.
5 Once the pan is very hot, dredge the chicken in the flour mixture and add to the pan.
6 Sear the first side (about 5 minutes) then add the butter and mushrooms. (Do not crowd the mushrooms. Make sure they don’t overlap or stick together.)
7 Sear the second side of the meat, stir the mushrooms, and add the marsala wine.
8 Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the internal temperature of the chicken is at least 165 ºF (74 ºC). (If the marsala evaporates before then, just add a little more and continue to simmer until cooked.)
NOTE Marsala is a wine made in Sicily, and comes in a sweet or dry style. Dry marsala wine is used for cooking savory dishes and adds a nutty, caramelized flavor. If you don’t have this handy, you can substitute it with dry white wine and 1 tsp of brandy.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
14 oz extra-firm tofu or meat (400 grams)
a handful of snow peas
1–2 peppers
1 tbsp peanut or vegetable oil (15ml)
¼ cup cornstarch (32 grams)
FOR THE SAUCE
2 garlic cloves
1–2 tsp ginger (6 grams)
1 tbsp soy sauce (20 ml)
1 tbsp honey (20 ml)
¼ cup water (60 ml)
DIRECTIONS
1 Remove the tofu from the package and squeeze as much water out as possible. Place between two paper towels and add a heavy weight or object on top to squeeze the water out. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes. (You can use meat or shrimp instead; just make sure the meat is cut into small, similar-size pieces.)
2 Cut the peppers into small, similar-size pieces and mince the garlic and ginger for the sauce.
3 Combine the sauce ingredients and mix well. Have everything you will need to cook with within arm’s reach because the frying happens fast.
4 Heat a wok or large pan over high heat. Once hot, add the oil and swirl so the pan is evenly coated.
5 Fill a shallow bowl with cornstarch and coat the tofu, meat, or shrimp in the cornstarch. Add to the pan and cook for 5 to 8 minutes, tossing once or twice so all the sides cook evenly and nothing burns, then remove to a plate.
6 Add the vegetables, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes.
7 Once the vegetables have softened, add the tofu or meat back to the pan, and pour the sauce over everything.
8 Toss so everything is coated in the sauce and cook for 1 to 2 minutes.
9 Serve over your grain of choice.
NOTE A stir-fry happens quickly, so it’s good to make sure all the ingredients are chopped, mixed, and ready to go. When you cut up the meat and vegetables, make sure they are equal in size so they cook evenly. It is best to use a wok, but a large pan will work too. Just make sure the pan is hot and cook the vegetables and/or meat in batches, so nothing burns.
SERVES: 2
INGREDIENTS
2 tbsp brown sugar (30 grams)
1 tbsp honey (20 ml)
1 tbsp butter (14 grams)
½ tsp ground ginger (2 grams)
2 tbsp Dijon mustard (30 ml)
2 salmon fillets
1 tbsp olive oil (15 ml)
DIRECTIONS
1 Preheat the oven to 450 ºF (230 ºC).
2 In a small saucepan, combine the brown sugar, honey, butter, ginger, and mustard. Heat over medium low and stir until everything is melted and well-combined. Then remove from the heat.
3 Cut the salmon into 2 to 3 inch fillets (if not separated already) and brush one third of the honey mustard mixture over the salmon.
4 Heat the olive oil in a large pan over high heat. Once it is very hot, place both fillets skin-side down and fry for 6 to 7 minutes, then turn over and fry the other side for 2 to 3 minutes or until golden. (Don’t worry if the skin burns.)
5 Place the fillets in a baking dish, skin-side down, and brush another third of the honey mustard glaze on the fillets.
6 Bake for 5 minutes.
7 Remove the skin, brush on more of the glaze, and serve immediately.
NOTE It’s best to buy fillets from the center of the fish, where the meat is thickest, preferably from wild-caught salmon. If the fish is thinner than 1 inch, cut the cooking and baking times in half.
