TOUR 10B: LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE STEAMER TRIP, 65 m., Steamer ‘Mount Washington,’ 4 hrs.

Via The Weirs, Center Harbor, Wolfeborough, Alton Bay.

Season, June 22 to Sept. 12. Leaves The Weirs weekdays, 8 and 1. Sundays, 9 and 1.25. Round trip fare, adults $1, children 5–12 yrs., 50¢.

FROM THE WEIRS (see Tour 3, sec. b) and to the east the wide-spreading Meredith Bay is passed (L). Meredith, 4 miles up the bay, includes the strip of land just beyond the bay known as Meredith Neck.

Soon is visible (L) Spindle Point, with its attractive lighthouse tower. The large island on the right is GOVERNOR’S, the fourth largest in the lake, containing 495 acres. The stone mansion, now in ruins, was the summer home of Baron Speck von Sternberg and the summer German Embassy. The island is controlled by a development company, looking to the establishment of a smart summer colony.

Another large island (L) is PITCHWOOD ISLAND, beyond which is a small island (L), EAGLE, owned by Jack Wright of Boston, prominent member of the Winnipesaukee Power Boat Association. The next island of size (L) is STONEDAM, so called because at one time a stone cause-way, the remains of which are visible during low water, connected it with the mainland on Meredith Neck. The passage between the island and the mainland, Stonedam Narrows, is difficult to navigate.

Ahead is an expanse of nearly 20 miles of open water. Wolfeborough and Alton Bay he right. Ahead are two islands, TIMBER, and farther forward (R), MARK.

The wooded shoreline of the lower end of Meredith Neck comes into view (L) along with little Horse Island. Right is the lower end of BEAR ISLAND, the second largest in the lake, with an area of 750 acres, which received its name from the fact that a bear was once killed on the west side of the island. The lower end of the island bears the name of Aunt Dolly’s Point, being the site of a house once owned by Dolly Nichols, who formerly ran a ferry from that point to the mainland on Meredith Neck. She is said to have sold cider and rum to fishermen, and many stories are told of her muscular feats. She frequently rowed to The Weirs for a barrel of rum, loading it into the boat herself and on reaching home would pull the barrel up over her knees and take a drink out of the bunghole.

On the summit of BEAR ISLAND, the first stop, is St. John’s Church-on-the-Lake (services held Sundays throughout summer), the only island church on Winnipesaukee. Camp Lawrence for boys is also on Bear Island and the only island post office on the lake is situated at the northern end of the island.

Leaving Bear Island, LOON ISLAND (L) and the small group of AUNT DOLLY’S ISLANDS (R) are visible. Next is PINE ISLAND. Just after passing the latter a series of striking mountain views is presented. Right is the long mass of the Ossipee Range (alt. 2975). Left of them appears Mt. Chocorua (alt. 3475). Still farther left the Sandwich Range is visible with Red Hill (alt. 2029) in the foreground.

Proceeding now toward the north side of the lake, the steamer passes THREE MILE ISLAND (private), owned and occupied by the Appalachian Mountain Club. A large rough granite clubhouse provides living quarters. Sleeping-cabins and tents are along the shore.

Next is the island group (L) known as the Beavers. The largest, BIG BEAVER, is the summer home of Ben Ames Williams, short-story writer.

The boat passes between BIG MILE ISLAND (L) and LITTLE MILE ISLAND (R) (so named because they are a mile from Center Harbor) to enter Center Harbor Bay.

The first regular landing is at CENTER HARBOR, attractive despite its commercial developments (see Tour 10, sec. a).

After turning around and heading east the boat passes a group of small islands (L) known as TWO MILE ISLANDS. Some distance further is (L) BLACKCAT ISLAND followed by the large THREE MILE ISLAND. At the end of Three Mile are HAWK’S NEST ISLAND and ABBIE’S ISLAND. At this point the large red-roofed estate of the Demerritt Farm is visible (L) on Moultonborough Neck.

The first boat race between Harvard and Yale (1852) was held on Lake Winnipesaukee. A Yale University Athletic Association pamphlet thus describes the race:

       The Yale oarsmen had their eyes on the progress at Harvard and, largely through the efforts of James M. Whiton, ’53, a challenge was sent to Harvard to ‘test the superiority of the oarsmen of the two colleges’ and a race was arranged for August 3, 1852, at Center Harbor, Lake Winnipiseogee. The training of the men may be inferred from the remark of one of the Harvard crew, that they ‘had not rowed much for fear of blistering their hands,’ and there was a pleasing absence of all that childish formality that hedges a race at the present day. The ‘Oneida’ (’53) came down from Cambridge, while Yale had three boats, the ‘Halcyon,’ manned by the crew of the ‘Shawmut,’ the ‘Undine,’ the crew of which had to be filled out from the shore, and the ‘Atlanta,’ hired in New York for the race. So eager were they to race that they had in the morning a try out of the crews and the ‘Oneida’ won; but the real test came in the afternoon on a two-mile pull to windward from a stake-boat out in the lake. The Harvard boat again won the first prize, a pair of silver mounted black walnut sculls; the ‘Halcyon’ was second. Ten minutes was given as the time by the imaginative time-keeper. There was so much fun in the race that the crews thought they would have another go on the fifth; but that day was very stormy and the prize was given to the ‘Halcyon’ as second in the first race. Late in the day the storm lulled, and as a token of respect to the few visitors assembled, the uniforms were brought out, the boats manned, a little rowing indulged in, songs sung, the usual number of cheers given, and all said ‘Well Done.’ The whole party remained at the lake for a week and left together for Concord, where they parted. Such was the wholesome little regatta of 1852.

As the steamer continues, FIVE MILE ISLAND (L) and SIX MILE ISLAND (L), so named because they are approximately five and six miles from Center Harbor, are visible. At this point on a clear day the white crest of Mt. Washington (alt. 6288), about 50 miles away, can be seen from the stern of the boat through the deepest valley of the Sandwich Range topped (L) by Mt. Passaconaway (alt. 4060) and (R) by Carter Dome (alt. 4860). Halfway up the sides of the Ossipee Mountains can be seen the red-roofed buildings of the Thomas Plant estate.

Shortly appears (R) near the shoreline EAST BEAR ISLAND and inside of this DOLLAR ISLAND. Just beyond (R) is BIRCH ISLAND, at the end of which is STEAMBOAT ISLAND, receiving its name because the first steamer on the lake, the ‘Belknap,’ was wrecked there. A stock company built and launched it in 1833. It was a curious craft, the boiler set in brick, drawing so much water that a lighter was employed to load and unload its cargo. It took two years to build the boat and its launching was a great curiosity. The speed of the craft under good conditions was six to eight miles an hour. The steamer, however, was never a success and it was a great relief to the owners when it was wrecked on Steamboat Island in November, 1841. Back of Birch Island is JOLLY ISLAND, at one time the rendezvous of a colony of Methodist ministers.

LONG ISLAND (L), 3 miles long and 1 mile wide, is the largest island in the lake, comprising 1138 acres. Long Island Bridge connects it with the mainland. At one time the island was the scene of a prosperous farming community. A hotel on the eastern end is the center of a visiting population.

Leaving Long Island (L) and going eastward the steamer proceeds into the Broads, a wide stretch of water that is dangerous for small boats in a strong northwest wind. On SANDY ISLAND (L) the Boston Y.M.C.A. has a summer camp. Back of Sandy Island is LITTLE BEAR ISLAND or SAMOSET, named for Samoset, the only red-headed Indian ever known to have existed in this section. At this point and looking south across the Broads can be seen two ranges of mountains, the Altons (L) and the Belknaps (R), the two highest peaks of the latter being Mt. Belknap (alt. 2378), distinguished by a State Forest fire observatory on the summit, and Mt. Gunstock (alt. 2253).

The large island (L) appearing almost as mainland is COW or GUERNSEY ISLAND with an area of 519 acres. The change from the early name of Cow to Guernsey was made in 1933 by an act of the State legislature at the suggestion of the New Hampshire Guernsey Breeders’ Association, to honor the place to which was brought what is said to have been the first Guernsey imported into the country. In 1812 this island had the only gristmill in the lake region and attracted customers from all directions. The reproduction of this old mill, which was operated by a windmill, was placed on the top of the island by the New Hampshire Guernsey Breeders’ Association.

WINTER HARBOR (L), a part of the town of Tuftonborough farther inland, was so named because a loaded boat, destined for Moultonborough, was forced to seek shelter there and was frozen in and remained during the winter. Just beyond, down a long cove and looking left, is the low building of the Libby Museum, built in 1912 by the late Dr. Henry F. Libby of Boston. It has a collection of indigenous fish, birds, animals, and Indian relics (see Tour 10A).

To the east the wooded shoreline (L) is known as Wolfeborough Neck. Across the Broads (R), the large island with the three humps is RATTLESNAKE.

The boat rounds Jewell Point on the eastern end of Wolfeborough Neck and heads into Wolfeborough Bay with a good view of WOLFEBOROUGH (see Tour 13, sec. a), the second stop.

Leaving Wolfeborough Bay the boat heads for Alton Bay. The islands (L) are LITTLE BARNDOOR and back of it BIG BARNDOOR. The two small islands (R) are SHIP and MOOSE, the latter the larger. LITTLE MARK ISLAND (R), exactly 5 miles out of Alton Bay, has long served as a landmark for navigation.

Directly ahead in ALTON BAY and near the dock landing is a band-stand on a sunken ledge, from which concerts are given in the summer season.

ALTON BAY VILLAGE, a typical summer resort, is the next stop for the boat.

After leaving the village dock and proceeding a short distance, Rum Point is seen (L). In order, then, come HEAD ISLAND (L), the larger SLEEPER’S ISLAND with the conspicuous Gray Stone Castle of the Hale estate, and, between the two, CUT ISLAND. The boat at this point approaches RATTLESNAKE ISLAND (R), the highest island on the lake, with an altitude of 395 feet above the water. Although the fifth largest island in the lake, it is uninhabited owing to its rocky nature and perhaps owing to the fact that at one time rattlesnakes were common there.

As the steamer moves toward The Weirs the next island is (R) DIAMOND. Years ago this was a landing-place for steamers and an old hotel stood there. Not being successful, it was drawn over the ice in winter by 16 yoke of oxen to The Weirs and was used as the central part of a new Hotel Weirs, since destroyed by fire.

The next large island (R) is WELCH and on the brow of the hill above it is (L) Kimball’s Castle, built by Benjamin Kimball, one-time president of the Concord and Montreal Railroad; the building is a reproduction of one admired by Mr. and Mrs. Kimball while traveling in Germany. An architect was then commissioned to duplicate it.

Still farther is (L) a cove at the end of which is GLENDALE, a sizable summer resort. The small island left of the entrance to the cove is LOCKE’S, while a large one right is ROUND ISLAND. Just beyond is (R) TIMBER ISLAND. The piles of rocks (L) protruding above the water and called The Witches have a legendary history. During the period when belief in witchcraft was prevalent, a Gilford man was crossing the ice during the winter, and having imbibed too freely of the cup of good cheer became bewildered as night came on and in the dusk marched up to a hollow tree standing on the island. Mistaking it for a dwelling-house he gave several smart raps and such an unearthly sound resounded that he took to his heels in fright. Ever afterwards he insisted that the island was inhabited by witches.

Next is (L) GOVERNOR’S ISLAND again and beyond it (L) on the mainland is INTERLAKEN PARK, formerly known as Aquedoctan, the largest Indian village about the lake (see Tour 3, sec. b).

Near the wharf at The Weirs and right of the outlet channel is seen the little stone structure covering Endicott Rock (see Tour 3, sec. b).