CHAPTER FOUR
USE YOUR NOODLE
PASTA IS MY GO-TO INGREDIENT FOR EASY WEEKNIGHT DINNERS.
Pasta with Asparagus and Mushrooms
ACTIVE 1 HR
TOTAL 2 HR 15 MIN
SERVES 6
This hand-rolled pasta is inspired by cecamariti, a fresh pasta traditionally made using bread dough. Find 00 flour, a fine Italian flour, at specialty food shops and amazon.com.
1¾ cups (about 7 oz.) 00 flour
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
4 large egg yolks
1 large egg
5½ Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 lb. mixed mushrooms, cut into bite-size pieces
Black pepper
1 lb. asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-in. pieces
½ tsp. crushed red pepper
⅓ cup dry white wine
¼ cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Shaved ricotta salata, for serving
1. Place flour and 1 tablespoon salt in a food processor; pulse until combined. Beat egg yolks, whole egg, and 1½ tablespoons oil in a medium bowl. Add egg mixture to food processor, and pulse until dough just comes together. Gradually add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if dough is too dry or doesn’t come together. Transfer dough to a lightly floured work surface, and knead until very smooth, 5 to 10 minutes. Cover dough with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
2. Pinch off a ½-inch piece of dough, and roll it between your hands to form a thin 2- to 3-inch-long rope; transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough.
3. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until al dente, about 7 minutes. Drain, reserving ½ cup cooking liquid. Toss pasta with 1 teaspoon oil in a bowl to prevent sticking. Wipe out saucepan with paper towels.
4. Add remaining ¼ cup oil to saucepan, and heat over medium-high. Add mushrooms to pan, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add asparagus and crushed red pepper; cook, stirring, until crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add wine, and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until liquid is absorbed, about 2 minutes.
5. Add pasta, cream, lemon juice, and reserved ½ cup cooking liquid to pan. Reduce heat to medium, and cook, tossing, until pasta is lightly coated, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Transfer to shallow bowls, and serve with shaved ricotta salata.
WINE Stony, vivid Grüner Veltliner: 2016 Schloss Gobelsburg Gobelsburger.
No 17 WEEKNIGHT GENIUS TIP
Making fresh pasta at home doesn’t require special equipment, so skip the roller and cutter. Instead, pinch off a ½-inch piece of homemade dough, and roll it into a small rope. The uncooked pasta can be covered with plastic and refrigerated overnight.
Thin Spaghetti with Tomatoes, Kalamata Olives, Feta, and Mint
ACTIVE 15 MIN
TOTAL 25 MIN
SERVES 4
This simple one-pot pasta inspired by Greek ingredients is a satisfying meal for a summer evening. Drained jarred olives will work, but I love raiding the olive bar at Whole Foods or Fresh Market for the freshest selection.
1¼ lbs. multicolored cherry or grape tomatoes
12 oz. uncooked thin spaghetti (spaghettini)
2½ cups chicken or vegetable stock
2 cups water, plus more for sauce
1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper
¾ cup pitted kalamata olives, gently smashed
¼ tsp. black pepper
4 oz. feta cheese, crumbled (about 1 cup)
¼ cup packed mint leaves
¼ cup loosely packed oregano leaves
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1. Stir together tomatoes, pasta, stock, 2 cups water, 1 teaspoon salt, and crushed red pepper in a large saucepan; bring to a boil over medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until pasta is slightly softened, about 5 minutes.
2. Crush tomatoes in sauce-pan using the back of a spoon. Cook over medium-high, stirring occasionally, until pasta is al dente and liquid thickens and reduces slightly, about 6 minutes. (If needed, add additional water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until sauce is desired consistency.)
3. Stir in olives, black pepper, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Divide pasta mixture evenly among 4 bowls. Sprinkle with feta, mint, and oregano; drizzle with oil.
WINE Lemony, light-bodied Greek white: 2016 Argyros Estate Assyrtiko.
Pickled Pepper Pasta and Cheese
ACTIVE 30 MIN
TOTAL 1 HR
SERVES 8
In this easy one-pan pasta, the noodles cook right in the baking dish.
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus more for brushing
4 cups half-and-half
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. pepper
1 cup water
1 lb. uncooked extra-wide egg noodles
2 cups shredded Fontina cheese
2 cups shredded sharp white cheddar cheese
1 cup chopped mixed hot and sweet pickled peppers, plus more
for garnish
1 cup panko
1. Preheat the oven to 425° F. Brush a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with butter.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk half-and-half with flour, salt, pepper, and 1 cup water. Stir in noodles, cheeses, and peppers. Scrape mixture into prepared baking dish, and bake until bubbling and noodles are tender, about 30 minutes.
3. Preheat broiler and position a rack 8 inches from heat. In a small bowl, toss panko with 3 tablespoons melted butter until evenly moistened. Sprinkle panko mixture over pasta and cheese, and broil until browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Garnish with peppers and serve.
WINE Full-bodied, creamy Chardonnay: 2014 Anaba Sonoma Coast.
No 18 WEEKNIGHT GENIUS TIP
Add crunch to a rich, cheesy pasta and cheese dish with crispy panko breadcrumbs.
Chorizo-Poached Shrimp Pasta
TOTAL 45 MIN
SERVES 4
To infuse this entire dish with excellent smoky flavor, cook chorizo in oil, then use that oil to cook shrimp and garlic.
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 oz. Spanish chorizo, cut into ½-in. pieces
1 lb. shelled and deveined large shrimp
4 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and pepper
12 oz. strozzapreti pasta
1 pt. cherry or grape tomatoes, halved if large
1 cup torn basil, plus more for garnish
1. In a medium saucepan, cook olive oil and chorizo over medium, stirring occasionally, until the chorizo is tender, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a small bowl. Add shrimp, garlic, and a generous pinch of salt to saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until shrimp are cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer shrimp and garlic to the bowl with the chorizo. Reserve oil.
2. Meanwhile, in a large pot of salted boiling water, cook pasta until al dente. Drain.
3. In the pot, combine tomatoes and ½ cup of the reserved chorizo oil; discard remaining oil. Cook over medium, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes just start to soften, about 3 minutes. Add shrimp mixture and pasta and cook, tossing, until hot and pasta is coated in a light sauce, about 2 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper, then stir in torn basil. Transfer to bowls, garnish with more basil and serve right away.
Curried Noodles with Shrimp
ACTIVE 30 MIN
TOTAL 50 MIN
SERVES 4
To infuse the rice noodles with excellent flavor, dissolve curry powder in boiling water to soak the noodles. Then sauté the noodles with shrimp, garlic, ginger, and plenty of fresh herbs for a bright flavor.
6 cups boiling water
2 Tbsp. Madras curry powder
Kosher salt and pepper
8 oz. stir-fry rice noodles
¾ lb. shelled and deveined large shrimp
¼ cup canola oil
¼ cup minced garlic
¼ cup minced peeled ginger
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, plus wedges for serving
2 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce
1 cup each chopped basil and cilantro, plus more for garnish
½ cup thinly sliced scallions
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced
1. In a 9-by-9-inch baking dish, mix the boiling water, curry powder and a pinch of salt. Add the noodles. Let stand until softened, 20 minutes. Drain.
2. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper. In a large saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil until shimmering. Add the shrimp and cook over medium-high, turning once, until just cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
3. Wipe out saucepan. Heat remaining oil in it. Add garlic and ginger and stir-fry over medium until softened, 2 minutes. Add noodles, shrimp, lime juice, and soy sauce and stir-fry until hot, about 3 minutes. Fold in herbs, scallions, and serrano. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with herbs; serve with lime.
WINE Lime-scented dry Riesling: 2015 Fritz Haag Estate Trocken.
Pappardelle with Chicken and Pistachio-Mint Pesto
TOTAL 30 MIN
SERVES 4 TO 6
Make a bright and nutty mint-and-pistachio pesto as the sauce for this fresh and summery warm pasta dish. The pistachio-mint pesto can be refrigerated overnight. Bring it to room temperature before using in the recipe.
1½ cups lightly packed mint leaves, plus more for garnish
½ cup shelled unsalted pistachios
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and pepper
8 oz. pappardelle pasta
12 oz. shredded rotisserie chicken (3 cups)
1 small zucchini, very thinly sliced or shaved
1 small yellow squash, very thinly sliced or shaved
1½ cups mixed cherry tomatoes, halved, or quartered if large
1. In a food processor, combine 1½ cups of mint with pistachios and lemon juice and pulse until finely chopped. With the machine on, gradually add olive oil until incorporated and pesto is nearly smooth. Scrape into a large bowl and season generously with salt and pepper.
2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook pasta until al dente. Drain well, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Add pasta, chicken, zucchini, yellow squash, tomatoes, and reserved cooking water to pesto and toss well. Season generously with salt and pepper and toss again. Garnish with mint leaves and serve right away.
WINE Floral, medium-bodied Italian white: 2015 Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina.
No 19 WEEKNIGHT GENIUS TIP
Here are 4 excellent white wines—all $15 a bottle or less—that are perfect for weeknight meals. (See for budget-friendly red wines.)
2017 VERA VINHO VERDE
Think lemon zest, a little sweet orange, and a hint of sea spray.
2017 TOAD HOLLOW CHARDONNAY
Ripe mango with a touch of lemon.
2017 PRINCIPE PALLAVICINI FRASCATI
Lightly spicy, floral, with tingly lemon flavors.
2017 SATELLITE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC
Bright and zesty.
Smoked Gouda Carbonara
TOTAL 30 MIN
SERVES 6
In this play on carbonara, I use smoked Gouda cheese, adding a deliciously smoky flavor to this silky, hearty and totally delicious pasta.
1 lb. spaghetti
5 large egg yolks
1 large egg
1 cup (4 oz.) finely shredded smoked Gouda, plus more for serving
Kosher salt and black pepper
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
6 oz. slab bacon, finely diced
¾ tsp. crushed red pepper
1. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook pasta until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.
2. In a large bowl, beat egg yolks with the whole egg, 1 cup Gouda, ½ teaspoon salt, and 2 teaspoons black pepper. Very gradually whisk in ½ cup reserved cooking water to temper eggs.
3. Meanwhile, in the large pot, heat olive oil. Add bacon and cook over medium until rendered but not crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Add pasta, crushed red pepper, and ¼ cup reserved pasta cooking water. Cook, tossing, until pasta is coated, 1 to 2 minutes. Scrape pasta mixture into the large bowl and toss vigorously until creamy, 1 to 2 minutes; add more cooking water if needed. Season with salt and pepper. Divide pasta into bowls and serve, passing more Gouda at the table.
WINE Smoky, intense Pinot Noir: 2015 J. Hofstatter Meczan.
Harissa-Lamb Skillet Lasagna
ACTIVE 35 MIN
TOTAL 1 HR
SERVES 6
Chicken stock dials up the richness of this stovetop lasagna, while harissa and ground lamb add a modern, Middle Eastern twist.
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. ground lamb
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
¾ tsp. black pepper, divided
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. harissa paste (such as Dea Harissa)
3 medium garlic cloves, sliced
6 cups fresh spinach leaves
1 lb. uncooked dried lasagna noodles, broken into 1- to 2-in. pieces
3 cups jarred marinara sauce
2 cups chicken stock
1¼ cups whole-milk ricotta cheese
¾ oz. Parmesan cheese, finely grated (about ½ cup), plus more for serving
Chopped flat-leaf parsley
1. Heat oil in a deep 12- to 14-inch skillet over medium-high until shimmering. Add lamb, and season with ½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cook, breaking up meat with a spoon, until fat has rendered and meat is browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer lamb to a bowl, and set aside. Spoon off and discard all but 1 tablespoon rendered drippings from skillet.
2. Reduce heat to medium, and add chopped onion, harissa, garlic, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in spinach until just wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in lasagna noodles, marinara, stock, and reserved lamb (it’s OK if noodles aren’t completely submerged). Bring to a simmer over high; reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until pasta is al dente and most of sauce is absorbed, 20 to 25 minutes, stirring once after 10 minutes.
3. Dollop ricotta over lasagna; sprinkle with Parmesan. Cover and cook over medium-low until cheese is hot and melted, about 5 minutes. Garnish with parsley and additional Parmesan.
Baked Ziti with Meatballs
ACTIVE 30 MIN
TOTAL 1 HR 45 MIN
SERVES 6 TO 8
This tip for making pasta without boiling it in a pot of water is going to change your life. Combining uncooked pasta with sauce and water in a baking dish not only saves you time and dirties one less pot, it results in a surprisingly luscious dish.
½ lb. ground pork
½ lb. ground beef
½ cup plain dry breadcrumbs
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
⅓ cup lightly packed torn basil, plus more for garnish
¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving
Kosher salt and pepper
1 lb. ziti or rigatoni
1 lb. fresh mozzarella, torn into 1-in. pieces
3 cups marinara sauce
2½ cups water
1. Preheat oven to 400° F. In a large bowl, combine pork, beef, breadcrumbs, eggs, ⅓ cup torn basil, ¼ cup Parmesan, and 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper; mix well. Form mixture into 1-inch balls.
2. In a 9-by-13-inch ceramic baking dish, spread half of pasta in an even layer. Arrange half of meatballs and mozzarella on pasta. Spoon half of the marinara on top and season with ½ teaspoon salt. Repeat with remaining pasta, meatballs, mozzarella, and marinara, then season with ½ teaspoon salt. Add 2½ cups water to baking dish and cover tightly with foil.
3. Bake for about 1 hour, until pasta is tender and most of liquid is absorbed. Uncover and bake for 5 minutes longer, then turn on broiler and broil 8 inches from heat until top is lightly browned. Let pasta stand for 5 minutes, then garnish with basil and Parmesan and serve.
No 20 WEEKNIGHT GENIUS TIP
Layer dried pasta with meatballs, cheese and sauce in a baking dish. Add water, cover tightly with foil, then bake.
Pork and Ricotta Stuffed Jumbo Shells
ACTIVE 45 MIN
TOTAL 2 HR
SERVES 6 TO 8
Amp up the filling in stuffed shells by including ground pork, and keep it simple by using your favorite prepared tomato sauce. You can assemble the recipe ahead through Step 3 and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature before baking.
12 oz. jumbo pasta shells
1¼ lbs. ground pork
1¼ cups fresh ricotta
¾ cup panko
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 large egg, beaten
½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
½ cup finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish
½ cup heavy cream
Kosher salt and pepper
4½ cups prepared marinara sauce
½ lb. fresh lightly salted mozzarella, torn
1. Preheat oven to 375° F. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook shells until they are al dente, about 9 minutes. Drain well and transfer to a baking sheet to cool slightly.
2. In a large bowl, combine pork, ricotta, panko, garlic, egg, Parmigiano, ½ cup parsley, ¼ cup cream, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper; mix well.
3. In a medium bowl, mix marinara sauce with remaining ¼ cup cream. Spoon half of sauce into a 9-x -13-inch baking dish. Stuff each shell with a heaping tablespoon of the filling and nestle in the sauce. Spoon remaining sauce over shells and scatter mozzarella on top.
4. Cover and bake for 45 minutes, then uncover and bake for 15 minutes longer, until bubbling and pork is cooked through. Let stand for 10 minutes, then garnish with parsley and serve.
WINE Medium-bodied Italian red: 2014 Cecchi Sangiovese Tosca.