Explorer’s Guide Arkansas

images — TROUT FISHING ON THE UPPER WHITE RIVER

THE OZARK MOUNTAINS

Covering the northwestern and north-central part of Arkansas, the Ozarks are known for their rugged topography. Rivers have carved deep valleys into the high, flat plateaus here. A common rock known as limestone has formed brilliant caves like those found at Blanchard Springs near Mountain View. The Paleozoic rock is broken by valleys cut by the state’s best-known fishing rivers, including the White, Buffalo, King’s, Mulberry, Norfork, and Little Red. Lakes like Beaver, Norfork, and Bull Shoals are hugely popular recreational sites.

The magnetism of the Ozark Mountain range has drawn travelers to its beautiful bluffs since Native Americans first climbed these hills. But within the Ozark Plateau there are really three dramatically different worlds with their own topography, geology, history, and culture: the Springfield, the Salem, and the Boston Plateaus. Distinct geology defines each of the three and, in addition to shaping their landscape, was pivotal in defining the lives of the people who settled here.

The craggy cliffs of the Boston Plateau, more commonly known as the Boston Mountains, were notoriously difficult for those brave enough to venture to travel here, so modern man is the first to have easy access to its dazzling beauty. The Bostons skirt both the Springfield and Salem Plateaus, and you are most likely to experience them while passing through them to get to the other two. There are some treasures to be found along the way, so don’t be in a hurry. It is a good idea to double, or triple, the time you allot for your journey to allow you to take advantage of the many shops and overlooks along the winding roads. The businesses and people you will find clinging to the precipitous cliffs of the Boston Mountains are like bonsai, beautifully crafted by their environment.

With its extensive, fairly level areas, the Springfield Plateau was much easier to develop for transportation, agriculture, and urban centers than the Boston Mountains. Because it combines the scenery and quality of life of the Ozark Mountains with relatively level topography that can be readily developed, the Springfield Plateau has become a growth center of significance not only in Arkansas but regionally and nationally as well. That growth has occurred in spite of previous barriers to transportation, now addressed by an interstate highway and a regional airport.

Like the Springfield Plateau, the Salem Plateau, at an elevation of about 1,500 feet, often forms extensive plains, as at Berryville. Several distinct areas of hills have been cut into the plateau by rivers, most prominently along the White River and its tributaries. Other extensive hills have been cut by the Spring and Strawberry Rivers. The Salem Plateau is often underlain by dolomite or dolostone, similar to limestone. Although dolostone is not dissolved by water as readily as limestone, caves are present, as well as large springs such as the one at Mammoth Spring near the eastern border of this area.

As different as each of the plateaus may be from the others, they share a dependence on Arkansas’s pure waters and their ability to draw travelers their way. The rivers that carve their way through the northern half of the state have drawn millions of people through the years, looking for the thrill of rushing whitewater, the comfort of healing mineral waters, or the challenge of a river teeming with trout. Damming of the rivers created lakes which became major recreational attractions in their areas. When damming compromised the native fish that inhabited the streams, hatcheries were built to support populations of trout. Today, White River trout fishing is world famous. Flippin, Cotter, Mountain Home, and, to some extent, Calico Rock have benefited from recreational use of the White River. Hardy and Mammoth Spring have become thriving communities, in large part based on tourism associated with the Spring River and the Mammoth Spring at its source.

The forests of the Ozarks are mostly upland hardwood; oak and hickory trees are numerous. The density of the forest combines with the cooler climes to produce glorious displays of color in fall that are named with New England’s as the nation’s most beautiful. The once formidable roads are now prized as pleasure drives by motorists with four wheels and two. Handmade quilts, dulcimers, furniture, and pottery, once accessible only to the adventurer, are now sold all over the country. As technology advances and the world seems to grow smaller, the remote expanse and seclusion of the Ozarks are now selling points.

Just a little over a century ago, the railroad broke the isolation of the Ozark region. Today, major industries like Tyson and Walmart have made the Ozarks their home. Emigration to the northwestern corner of the state is very high, and the region is one of the most popular vacation areas in the state. Time has marched on in the Ozarks, as it has all over the world. But this is one place where a commitment to the environment ensures that its beauty will not be trampled by the parade of progress.

AREA CODES Most of the northwestern corner of the state uses the 479 area code. Destinations from about Berryville eastward are located in the 870 area code.

The Springfield Plateau and Western Boston Mountains

GUIDANCE The unspoiled beauty of the Ozark Mountains has inspired visitors to blaze trails through its remote wilderness since the nineteenth century. It comes as no surprise that northwest Arkansas’s tourism bureaus are experts in guiding travelers through the Boston Mountains to the progressive communities on the Springfield Plateau. The Northwest Arkansas Tourism Association (479-855-1336; www.nwatourism.org) publishes a regional brochure with details on events and destinations in the Northwest Corridor. The scenic, winding roads of the Ozarks have inspired a number of motorcycle rallies to the delight of riders throughout the country. The Fayetteville Convention & Visitors Bureau (1-800-766-4626; www.experiencefayetteville.com) maps out the details for Bikes, Blues, and BBQ, the largest nonprofit rally in America. If you’re wondering why the chicken crossed US 71, it was to get to Springdale (Springdale Chamber of Commerce; 1-800-972-7261; www.springdale.com), best known as home to Tyson Foods and J. B. Hunt. The addition of Arvest Ballpark, Ballpark.com’s Best New Ballpark of 2008, now lures more than chickens to venture across the highway for minor league baseball, concerts, and events.

It’s hard to imagine a corporation having a greater impact on a region than Walmart has had on northwest Arkansas. In fact, you could say that Walmart put Bentonville (479-273-2841; www.bentonvilleUSA.com) on the map. By 1998, the volume of corporate travel to their global headquarters necessitated a new regional airport to accommodate the traffic. Nothing succeeds like success, and nationally recognized retailers soon followed to set up shop in the neighboring communities of Rogers and Lowell (479-636-1240; www.rogerslowell.com). Today, nearly 20 years after the opening of the Northwest Arkansas Regional Airport (XNA), there are as many people traveling to the Northwest Corridor for an art experience as there are going to watch the Razorbacks play. The 2011 opening of the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art transformed the town, once again, and its impact is visible throughout the region. The town has gained respect nationally largely due to the surprisingly high level of quality and diversity in its hospitality product. It doesn’t just have an upscale, boutique hotel. Bentonville has a 21C Museum Hotel, a remarkably unique property that considers itself “an art museum with sleeping rooms.” Looking for a fun place for your kids to play and learn and, oh by the way, they range in age from 2 to 15? One word. Amazeum. If Willy Wonka’s candy factory were an educational experience, it would be Amazeum.

GETTING THERE By auto: If you are coming from the north, US 71 enters Arkansas at Bentonville before turning into I-540, which extends north and south through the length of the Northwest Corridor.

By air: The airport in Bentonville, Arkansas Regional Airport (479-205-1000; www.flyxna.com), 1 Airport Boulevard, Bentonville. Airlines offering flights to XNA include Allegiant Air, American Airlines, Delta, and United. Expanded flight options are available at the Little Rock National Airport (501-372-3439; www.clintonairport.com), 1 Airport Drive, Little Rock. Allegiant Air, American Airlines, Delta, Frontier Airlines, Southwest, United, and Via Air offer service to the capital city.

MEDICAL EMERGENCIES Northwest Medical Center of Benton County (479-553-1000; www.northwesthealth.com), 3000 Medical Center Parkway, in Bentonville, and the Northwest Medical Center of Washington County (479-751-5711; www.northwesthealth.com/nmew.cfm), 609 West Maple Avenue in Springdale, are both managed by the Northwest Health Group. At the southern end of the corridor, over 200 physicians represent 37 areas of specialty at the Washington Regional Medical Center (479-713-1000; www.wregional.com), 3215 N. Northhills Boulevard in Fayetteville. Washington Regional Medical Center is the newest high-tech medical center in Fayetteville, located near the intersection of I-540 and US 71. The facility provides 233 beds and contains state-of-the-art equipment and technologies.

images Wandering Around

EXPLORING BY CAR National Scenic Byway AR 7, Harrison (www.byways.org). One of the most scenic drives in the country, AR 7 runs from the Louisiana border to Missouri, passing through both the Ouachita and Ozark Mountains. You will cross into the Boston Mountains at Russellville (you can also jump on Scenic 7 from I-40 here, if it better suits your itinerary or schedule). You can make the drive from Russellville to Missouri in three hours or three days. There are numerous resorts and attractions along the route, as well as scenic overlooks. It is particularly popular with motorcyclists, with a number of resorts that cater specifically to two-wheelers. You will cross the Buffalo River at Jasper, offering at least one chance to wet your feet in the waters of the nation’s first federally protected river. Downtown Jasper is something of a surprise; native rock facades on a number of the businesses on the downtown square add to its unique character and relationship to the river. Wildlife management areas flank AR 7 for the majority of its Ozark section, offering ample wildlife-watching opportunities, and you will definitely want to keep an out eye for deer.

The Boston Mountains Scenic Loop, Scenic US 71/I-540. This scenic loop offers breathtaking vistas of the hills and valleys of the Arkansas Ozarks and makes a great half-day excursion. Take I-540 in Fayetteville to US 71, then south to I-40. Go west on I-40 to I-540 North for a 40-minute drive back to Fayetteville. The US 71 part of your drive winds through the Boston Mountains and was one of the primary connections to the northwestern corner of the state before the interstate highway was built. Small towns like Mountainburg, Winslow, and West Fork enjoyed steady traffic from travelers who were actually headed to Fayetteville but were inspired to stop regularly along the way to take in the scenery. When I-540 opened, the majority of traffic past the small burgs chose it over US 71, not just because it is the quicker route, but because it offers a terrific vantage point from above the mountains. Antiques and craft shops and cafés are still scattered sporadically along US 71, stocked with a combination of handmade crafts by native artisans and hand-me-down treasures from family ancestors. Three state parks are within 20 minutes of I-540, including Devil’s Den State Park, which is situated among the crevices of the Boston Mountains, and you can get a completely different perspective of them from here. The restaurant at Devil’s Den is open for breakfast and lunch (call for hours, seasonal times vary) with daily specials, burgers, and sandwiches. The I-540 section of the drive is 37 miles and will give you a chance for a real overview of this area, as bridges and overpasses leap over the valleys below. Kids love to honk the horn in the lengthy Bobby Hopper Tunnel that cuts through the Boston Mountains near Winslow.

Pig Trail Scenic Drive. Recognized as the most scenic route in the northwest corner of the state, the actual Pig Trail is only 19 miles of AR 23, from the south boundary of the Ozark National Forest to its intersection with AR 16 at Brashears. From Fayetteville, you will start by heading southeast on AR 16 as it snakes its way parallel with the upper White River, before turning south at Brashears on AR 23. The heavy canopy envelops the road in places, and leaf peepers are drawn to its tunnels of scarlet and umber in the fall. This drive takes you by the Ozark Highlands Trail and across the Mulberry River. On the byway you will find lodging and outfitters, including public facilities at Turner Bend. Nearby White Rock Mountain Recreation Area also offers cabins and campgrounds, and makes for a panoramic picnic area from its setting 2,260 feet up. This is all a relatively short drive, so you can turn around at its end in Ozark for the return trip. Or you might want to take I-40 west to Alma, and take I-540 north back to the Northwest Corridor for a snappy, yet spectacular, drive over the mountains.

EXPLORING BY FOOT All Seasons Trail (1-800-766-4626; www.fayettevilletourism.com), 15 West Mountain, Fayetteville. This is a 90-minute self-guided driving tour through historic neighborhoods; a brochure is available at the chamber of commerce office. Handicapped accessible.

Buffalo National River Civil War Heritage Trail (870-741-5443; www.nps.gov/buff). The Buffalo National River is a 95,000-acre national park that preserves unique natural and cultural features of the Arkansas Ozarks. During the Civil War, the rugged terrain became a battleground for aggressive independent Confederate units and the Union forces holding northwest Arkansas. Skirmish sites, saltpeter caves, and Civil War–era farms are interpreted within the most scenic and recognizable wilderness area in Arkansas. Exhibits are on display at the Tyler Bend Visitor Center on US 65 at Silver Hill.

Historic Van Winkle Trail, Hobbs State Park. Just a couple of miles west of the Hobbs Visitor Center is the Historic Van Winkle Trail, a level-ground walk through the remnants of a historical plantation that was once a thriving sawmill, gristmill, blacksmith shop, and antebellum garden. This nineteenth-century former commercial hub is accessed through a walking tunnel underneath AR 12. You will stroll on the same road used by Yankee and Confederate soldiers during the Civil War, when the Van Winkle mill ground the corn to feed both sides.

Ozark Highlands National Recreation Trail (479-964-7200; www.fs.fed.us/oonf/Ozark). This 178-mile trail winds along mountaintops and bluffs, past waterfalls and over streams, while passing through some of the most remote and scenic country in the Ozark National Forest and near the Buffalo National River. The trail is used for day hikes as well as weekend and extended backpacking trips. The national forest contains campgrounds, picnic areas, cabins, wilderness areas such as East Fork, Hurricane Creek, Leatherwood, and Richland Creek, and many additional hiking trails.

EXPLORING BY RIVER The three distinct and heavily eroded plateaus that characterize the Ozark Mountain landscape also belie the age of this grand old range. The Paleozoic rock is broken by valleys cut by small streams that are also headwaters of the state’s best-known fishing rivers, including the White, Buffalo, Kings, Mulberry, and Little Red. The White River meanders in every direction for 720 miles, from its headwaters near Fayetteville and up through southern Missouri to its reentry in Arkansas and on down to the Mississippi. In its entire journey, the river’s flow is interrupted by at least eight dams, six in Arkansas and two more in Missouri.

The headwaters of the White are similar to the beginning stretches of other Ozark streams—fast and furious in the wet months, and comparatively calm the rest of the year. Here you’ll find a series of pools and shoals with overhanging trees, tight turns, and gravel bottoms amid bluffs, forests, and quiet pastures. As its journey continues, the White feeds dammed lakes, and its tailwaters then become rewarding cold waters for trout fishing below Beaver Dam and Bull Shoals Dam. Scenery is popular here too, with picturesque bluffs and thin layers of fog suspended delicately above the stream each morning around sunrise. Here, water level is determined less by rainwater and more by power generation at dams. There are numerous access points to the river provided by state and federal agencies and private resort owners.

The upper White River’s assortment of bass (smallmouth, largemouth, rock, and Kentucky), catfish (channel, blue, and flathead), and sunfish should satisfy nearly any angler. Spinnerbaits, crawfish imitators, and skirted jigs (with pork tails) are recommended, along with minnows, crawfish, and other natural baits. Below Bull Shoals Dam, the White River takes on an entirely different character. Here it is internationally known for premier trout fishing. The Game and Fish Commission stocks hundreds of thousands of rainbows in the White annually, and more than 90 percent of them are caught each year by anglers who come here from all corners of the globe. Stream-running walleye are also found in the upper White. Guides and outfitters are as plentiful as the fish and much easier to catch. In fact, guides along the shores of these rivers know not only where to find them but their preferred menu for the day.

images Towns and Villages

Bentonville. More than 2,000 hotel rooms and 100 restaurants are testament to the economic impact Sam Walton made on his corner of the universe. Now widely recognized as one of the fastest-growing cities in America, Bentonville has proven enormously successful at converting business travelers into full-time residents as the company’s vendors took up residence there. Literally millions of Americans refer to their local Walmart as Wally World, and they look forward to their weekly visits to the store with the anticipation of a 12-year-old planning a trip to Six Flags. The Walmart Visitor Center, located in the original variety store on Main Street, gives you a peek behind the curtain and a look at Sam Walton’s journey from Main Street merchant to national retail giant.

Bentonville transformed again when Helen Walton, Sam Walton’s daughter, realized her vision for the town as a national center for the arts. The Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art is her brainchild, and she apparently learned well at the foot of her father. Among the important American art treasures that grace the walls of this stunning facility: George Washington by Gilbert Stuart and Kindred Spirits by Asher Durand. Visitation to the town has grown dramatically every year, and local businesses have elevated their products, their services, and their thinking to take a more artistic approach to their work. Actress Geena Davis was so enamored with the town, she founded an annual film festival focused on the contribution of women in film. Each edition of the Bentonville Film Festival (BFF) introduces new people from around the world to this little slice of elegance in the Ozarks, and the town continues to grow deliberately, thoughtfully, and artistically.

Fayetteville. High-octane, urban experiences await you in the heart of Fayetteville. This is definitely not your typical sleepy little college town. As the epicenter of entertainment in northwest Arkansas, the downtown is alive with a nightlife unparalleled in the region. Aside from the unique shops, excellent restaurants, and lively bars, the area also hosts a number of annual festivals and events, including Bikes, Blues, and BBQ (www.bikesbluesandbbq.org) and the Fayetteville Arts Festival (www.fayettevilledowntown.org/faf). Fayetteville’s mark on American history is preserved at countless historic sites, most notably the first home of a newly married future president, William J. Clinton. The town is also home to the University of Arkansas, the Walton Arts Center, and the Fayetteville Public Library.

Rogers. In 1881, C. W. Rogers, vice president and general manager of the Frisco Railroad, had the foresight to strike a deal that sent the Frisco Line right through this area. Local business prospered through trade and train passenger service, and in appreciation residents named their city after him. A century later, the city’s roots in the railroad industry are displayed at Frisco Park, and merchants trade their wares in its historic downtown area, one of only 19 Main Street communities in Arkansas. Throughout the Northwest Corridor, each community seems to have its own niche in making this part of the state both progressive and historic. In Rogers you will find great shopping and dining, with more national brands and larger hotels. This same timeless charm is also found in the newer, more cosmopolitan shopping venues in Rogers. Pleasant Crossing, with more than 1 million square feet of lifestyle center shopping, incorporates a pedestrian-friendly main street design complete with water features, landscaping, and public spaces.

Springdale is a major industrial center with a population that almost doubled between 1980 and 2000 and is still on the increase; as of 2017, it was estimated at just over 72,000. In 2003, Forbes magazine rated it third best in the nation for business and career opportunities. People have lived here for about 12,000 years. Early settlers came and stayed because of abundant natural resources, just as later European settlers did. The community’s continued appreciation for those resources was reiterated when a majority of voters dubbed Springdale’s new minor league baseball team the Northwest Arkansas Naturals.

WALTON’S VISION IS REALIZED AT CRYSTAL BRIDGES

Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art (479-418-5700; www.crystalbridges.org), 600 Museum Way, Bentonville. Open Monday 11–6, Wednesday through Friday 11–9, and Saturday and Sunday 10–6.

When Helen Walton finally went from the ranks of the knowledgeable private collectors to a public philanthropist building a significant collection of American art for public display, she attracted national attention. There were those who were outraged she would take national treasures like George Washington’s official portrait to a small unknown town in the Ozarks. There were more who questioned the wisdom of the investment and the museum’s ability to draw viewers to the collection. Today, years after its opening in 2011, Walton’s dream is now a reality, and the result is an art experience that is unmatched because of its unique, rural setting in small-town Middle America. Most important art museums are located in downtown areas in cities with hundreds of thousands, even millions of people. But until you have experienced art in a scenic and relaxed environment, you can’t imagine the difference it makes to have the art removed from the frenetic energy of a busy downtown district. Everything about the museum encourages you to savor each of its pieces in harmony with the natural setting of its verdant grounds. There are walkways throughout the 100-acre campus with benches, a picnic table, and sculptures installed along the way.

Crystal Bridges takes its name from the unique glass-and-wood building design, created for the natural setting by world-renowned architect Moshe Safdie. The museum’s campus is within walking distance of downtown Bentonville. The complex includes 100,000 square feet of gallery space; library, meeting, and office space; a Great Hall; areas for outdoor concerts and public events; as well as sculpture gardens and walking trails. Crystal Bridges houses an impressive permanent collection of masterworks from American artists along with galleries dedicated to Native American and regional art. The growing inventory is composed of paintings and sculptures by American artists from the colonial period through the modern era. Temporary exhibits rotate regularly; check the museum’s website for a current schedule of events.

The design reflects an appreciation for the natural beauty of the Ozarks and an awareness of its importance to the visitor’s total experience. Architects specifically approached the Crystal Bridges site with a goal of enhancing and protecting the natural beauty of the site, employing cutting-edge conservation technologies to maximize sustainability. Plant life is integrated into the architecture, creating a constant dialogue between the building and the landscape.

In 2013, Crystal Bridges purchased the Bachman-Wilson House, an example of Frank Lloyd Wright’s classic Usonian architecture. Usonian is a term Wright used to describe a distinctly American style of residential architecture he developed during the Great Depression to be within the reach of the average middle-class American family. Helen Walton’s collection has grown to reflect the country’s artistic expression in every form it can be found.

Even the food. The restaurant at the museum, 11, specializes in modern American comfort food with an emphasis on traditions of the High South—the Ozarks. Their goal is to continue the narrative of a great story of American spirit inspired by the art, natural beauty, and connection to history that surrounds it.

Walmart sponsors admission to Crystal Bridges, so there is no charge to view the museum’s permanent collections; however, there is frequently a charge for special exhibits.

images To See

ARTS CENTERS AND GALLERIES Arts Center of the Ozarks (479-751-5441; www.artscenteroftheozarks.org), 214 South Main Street, Springdale. Ticket prices vary and are available for purchase online. This 425-seat theater offers live performances of dramas and musicals. Classes are offered in visual arts. Check the website for information on gallery showings and special events.

MUSEUMS Clinton House Museum (479-444-0066; www.clintonhousemuseum.com), 930 California Drive, Fayetteville. Open Monday through Saturday 8:30–4:30. Newlyweds Bill and Hillary Clinton called this 1930s English-style bungalow home during their years in Fayetteville. As the story goes, Hillary turned down the first proposal, so the future president sweetened the deal with a $3,000 downpayment on the $17,000 house. She said yes, and the rest is history that you can explore in the couple’s first home. The museum features photographic and memorabilia displays, and videos replay campaign commercials and political debates from Clinton’s first campaigns in Arkansas. A gift shop sells Clinton-related souvenirs. Admission is $5 per person.

Daisy Airgun Museum (479-986-6873; daisymuseum.com), 202 West Walnut, Rogers. Open Monday through Saturday 9–5; closed major holidays. Located in Rogers’ historic downtown is Daisy Manufacturing Company, Inc., the world’s oldest and largest manufacturer of air guns, ammo, and accessories. Introduced in 1939, the Daisy Red Ryder has sold over 9 million units, easily making it the most famous BB gun ever built. In March of 2000, Daisy relocated its extensive collection of antique Daisy air guns and advertising memorabilia from its corporate offices into its current location, a building that dates back to 1896 and is best known to local residents as the old Rexall Drug Store and Soda Fountain. Gun and history enthusiasts come to see the collection of antique air guns dating to the 1600s. In 2016, private equity firm Bruckmann, Rosser, Sherrill & Co. in New York acquired the historic BB gun manufacturer. BRS also owns Gamo Outdoor, a global manufacturer of airguns, accessories, and archery products. Daisy collectors come to walk through the company’s timeline and view old packaging and advertising. Baby boomers come to see an example of the first Daisy made and reminisce about the one they had as a kid. Shoppers come for the complete line of current Daisy products and unique collectibles, which are exclusively available through the Daisy Airgun Museum. Admission is $2 per person.

Headquarters House Museum (479-521-2970; www.washcohistoricalsociety.org), 118 East Dickson Street, Fayetteville. Call or check their website for current operating hours and special event information. This Greek Revival–style home was built by Judge Jonas Tebbetts in 1853 and miraculously survived the Civil War. The Battle of Fayetteville was fought on its front lawn, and a doorway bears the scar of a Minié ball, preserved in testament to the battle that earned the intersection of College and Dickson the title Bloody Corner. This home served as headquarters for both Union and Confederate forces during the Civil War. Located in the historic district of Fayetteville, the museum offers daily house tours, walking tours of the gardens and grounds, and educational programs to teach local children about the history of Fayetteville. The site hosts the annual Heritage School during summer months to promote awareness of past traditions and manners. It also provides numerous luncheons and receptions each year for visitors and guests. Group tours and living history presentations are available by appointment. Free.

Museum of Native American Artifacts (479-273-2456; www.museumofnativeamericanartifacts.org), 202 Southwest O Street (AR 72), Bentonville. Open Monday through Saturday 9–5. This museum features artifacts from the private collection of founder David Bogle, along with 47 items from the former University of Arkansas Museum. Among the pieces on display are nine rare pots in the shapes of a head or body. The 5,000-square-foot space west of downtown provides individual audio wands that lead visitors on self-guided tours. Free.

Rogers Historical Museum (479-621-1154; www.rogersarkansas.com/museum), 322 South Second, Rogers. Open Tuesday through Saturday 10–4; closed major holidays. The caboose is open the same hours from May 1 through October 31. The history of Rogers is told through thought-provoking exhibits crafted to immerse visitors in the bygone days of its origin. The Attic captures the imagination and attention of kids, while adults take guided tours of the historic 1895 Hawkins House. Museum staff will also lead guided tours of Rogers’ historic downtown area. Call before you travel. Free.

Shiloh Museum of Ozark History (479-750-8165; www.shilohmuseum.org), 118 West Johnson Avenue, Springdale. The museum takes its name from the pioneer community of Shiloh, which became Springdale in the 1870s. In 1881, a five-year-old Nebraska boy named Guy Howard found an arrowhead in the family garden, sparking an interest in Native American lore that would last a lifetime. The Howard family moved from Nebraska to Springdale by covered wagon in the 1890s, and Guy Howard soon discovered that the Ozarks were full of American Indian artifacts. His collection grew and grew. By the 1920s, local people were flocking to the Howard home to see Guy Howard’s museum. In 1966, Springdale purchased the huge collection, which contained some 10,000 prehistoric and historic artifacts and 260 books and pamphlets on anthropology and archaeology. The Shiloh Museum officially opened on September 7, 1968, with exhibits featuring artifacts from Howard’s collection, medical instruments used by local physicians, and a research library. In the 1980s, four historical buildings (an 1850s log cabin, an 1870s general store, an 1870s country doctor’s office, and a 1930s outhouse) were moved onto the museum campus, complementing an 1870s home already on the property. Free admission.

University of Arkansas Sports Museums (479-575-2000; www.uark.edu), University of Arkansas Campus, Fayetteville. Both museums are open during regular business hours. The Tommy Boyer Hall of Champions Museum in Bud Walton Arena and the Jerry Jones/Jim Lindsey Hall of Champions in the Frank Broyles Athletic Center display a century of Arkansas sports memories. Razorback heroes and hallmarks are remembered in photographic and video exhibits. Free admission.

CULTURAL SITES Fayetteville Visitor Center (479-521-5776; www.experiencefayetteville.com), 21 South Block Avenue, Fayetteville. Open Monday through Friday 8–5. The visitor center is a great resource for literature for all of northwest Arkansas. A brochure display contains Fayetteville information on one side, and regional and statewide information on the other. Fayetteville publications include the overall visitor guide as well as specifics on historic walking tours, trails, museums, antiques, shopping, and historical sites. City and parking maps are also on hand. The entire back wall of the center is a map of the city, with a magnified view of the downtown area and a small overview of the region. Icons symbolize trails, hotels, and attractions. A seating area, book of menus to Fayetteville restaurants, and wireless Internet access are other amenities. Retail items such as shirts and coffee mugs contain the Fayetteville or Arkansas Razorbacks logo. Also for sale are locally made food products, books from the University of Arkansas Press, snacks, and drinks.

Walmart Visitor Center (479-273-1329; www.walmartstores.com/AboutUs/287.aspx), 105 North Main Street, Bentonville. Open 9–5 Tuesday through Saturday. Located in Sam Walton’s original Bentonville variety store, the Walmart Visitor Center takes you from the company’s birth on Main Street to the world leader it is today. The center was created as an educational and informative facility for those interested in this American retailing success story. Admission is free.

Walton Arts Center (479-443-5600; www.waltonartscenter.org), 495 West Dickson Street, Fayetteville. The Walton Arts Center is the state’s largest performing arts center, drawing over 140,000 visitors annually. A regional showplace and the centerpiece of a vibrant arts community, the center hosts more than 350 public events annually and provides a wealth of arts programs you would normally find in major metropolitan areas. The 1,201-seat Baum Walker Hall attracts touring Broadway shows, and the 220-seat Starr Theatre is a versatile black box–type performance space that accommodates arts events, parties, and receptions. Bradberry Amphitheater is a 2,000-square-foot outdoor space in a gardenlike setting, a choice location for elegant events and weddings. The Nadine Baum Studios and Just Off Center administration building allow more versatility, with paintings, pottery, quilts, and other artwork displayed throughout. A detailed calendar is posted on their website; tickets are available for purchase by calling the box office or ordering online.

War Eagle Mill/War Eagle Bridge (479-789-5343), on War Eagle Road, off Scenic AR 12, Rogers. War Eagle Mill is open daily 8:30–5, February through November. Closed Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday during the winter. This working water-powered gristmill offers group tours demonstrating how the mill operates and the process of grinding. A gift shop stocks organic products, including salsas, flours, meals, cereals, whole grain mixes, jams, jellies, preserves, salad dressings, bread mixes, and soup starters. Each fall, the Ozark hills come alive with the sights, sounds, and aromas of the War Eagle Mill Antique & Craft Shows in October, easily the largest craft shows in Arkansas. Free admission.

ELEGANCE IN THE OZARKS

Bentonville’s first claim to fame was the great merchant for the masses, the late Sam Walton, founder of Walmart stores. The company may have grown into an empire, but Sam Walton always retained his image as a small businessman, albeit an extremely savvy small businessman. Walton nurtured this image, driving an older pickup and shrugging off the external, material trappings of wealth. Bentonville also embraced the image, preserving the “five-and-dime” storefront and ice cream parlor of the original Walmart on its main square.

As the business grew, sales executives and business owners flocked to the small town with the hope of placing their products on the successful retailer’s shelves. Today, the vendors and company executives own homes in Bentonville, having relocated to the Ozarks from around the world. Restaurants and shops reflect their broadened palates and tastes; diners find exotic flavors, and shops stock goods from every continent except Antarctica. Local farmers and ranchers learned how to satisfy the taste of discriminating chefs with top quality produce abundant enough to stock booths at the weekly farmers’ market.

When Walton died, his daughter Helen invested millions of dollars in acquiring the remarkable collection of American treasures displayed at the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in Bentonville. Just as her father’s vision for mass retailing transformed his variety store and the town around it, Helen Walton’s passion for Bentonville’s place in the world of American art has elevated the town once again. Artisans abound in Bentonville. Local businesses were already on the leading edge of products and palates, but Crystal Bridges inspired the community to grow to another level. Imagine Aspen in the Ozarks, complete with its own nationally ranked film festival founded by Geena Davis.

Bentonville includes one of the most artistically driven boutique hotels in the country, 21C Museum Hotel. Founders Steve Wilson and Laura Lee Brown launched their concept of an “art museum with sleeping rooms” in their hometown of Louisville, Kentucky, as an investment in downtown revitalization. Combining provocative contemporary art with reimagined historic space delivered a curated lodging product and rave reviews. A conversation with Helen Walton brought the third 21C Museum Hotel to charming downtown Bentonville. This time, however, the hotel is a juxtaposition to the historic square, in a newly built and site-specific modern brick and glass building.

Bentonville’s 21C continues the brand’s commitment to engaging the public with art. Exhibits are free and open 24/7, and if you take advantage of the sleeping rooms available above the gallery, you will find yourself drawn to the collections at all times of the day. From kinetic pieces that move when you do to digital media films to view, you should take your time exploring at 21C. Hotel guests are encouraged to interact not only with the art but also the mascot, any one of more than 200 three-foot-tall, lime-green plastic penguins scattered about the hotel. Dining alone? Not for long, because you will no doubt find one of these guys at the table with you at The Hive, the official restaurant for the hotel. The Hive offers its own signature dining experience under the guidance of executive chef and James Beard finalist Matt McClure.

There is an air of elegance now that permeates the town, spilling over into its shops, parks, and people. In the decade since Crystal Bridges opened its doors, artistic expression has reached Level 10 in Bentonville. And it’s going up.

HISTORIC SITES Fayetteville Confederate Cemetery (479-521-1710), Junction Rock and Willow Streets, Fayetteville. The cemetery was founded in 1872 by the Southern Memorial Association of Washington County, which paid to have the remains of Confederate casualties at Pea Ridge and Prairie Grove, as well as from less-storied combats, removed and reinterred in what remains a picturesque and moving site.

Pea Ridge National Military Park (www.nps.gov/peri), US 62, Pea Ridge. Pea Ridge National Military Park is the site of one of the largest Civil War battles west of the Mississippi River and is prized among Civil War enthusiasts as one of the nation’s best preserved. It marks the successful culmination of the Union’s effort to secure control of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers and protect the arsenal at St. Louis, which eased supply lines for General Grant’s Vicksburg campaign. The park spans over 4,300 acres and includes a 7-mile self-guided tour with 10 stops featuring wayside exhibits, a 9-mile horse trail, and a 7-mile hiking trail. If you are not up for the entire 7 miles, there are shorter loops accessible from tour stop #7. The park also has a visitor center, museum, and bookstore, and a 30-minute film of the Battle of Pea Ridge. Pea Ridge and Prairie Grove Battlefield State Park host annual battle reenactments the first weekend of December, swapping every year as host site. It is the largest battle reenactment in the state, drawing history buffs, schools, and families who not only get to witness the battle but can visit the battle camps to see great demonstrations of the life of the Civil War soldier. Pea Ridge hosts the event on the odd-numbered years.

Prairie Grove Battlefield State Park (479-846-2990) US 62, Prairie Grove. The museum is open daily 8–5. The picnic area and restrooms are open daily from 8 a.m. to one hour after sunset. Museum tours are $3 for adults, $2 for kids 6–12, and $10 for families. You can add a guided tour of the historic buildings for an additional $2 per adult, $1 per child, and $5 for families. The Battle of Prairie Grove was the last time two armies of almost equal strength faced each other for control of northwest Arkansas. The battle proved decisive in establishing Union control over the region. When the cannon smoke cleared on December 7, 1862, both sides had suffered massive casualties. It is believed to be the bloodiest day in Arkansas history. Recognized as one of the most intact Civil War battlefields, the site has a 5-mile driving tour that brings the battlefield to life. Arkansas’s largest battle reenactment is held here the first weekend in December on even-numbered years.

URBAN OASES Botanical Garden of the Ozarks (479-750-2620; www.bgozarks.org), 4703 North Crossover Road, Fayetteville. The Botanical Garden of the Ozarks sprawls luxuriously across the 86 acres it occupies adjacent to Lake Fayetteville. Themes portrayed in the nine 2,000-square-foot gardens include a children’s garden, Japanese garden, four seasons garden, herb and vegetable garden, rock and water garden, native Ozark species garden, rose and perennial garden, and a sensory garden. The children’s garden is enchanting. The closer you look, the more you see. Fairies and dragons peep beneath ground cover, and a concrete walkway leads to a bird’s-eye view of the grounds. The Carl A. Totemeier Horticulture Center and outdoor plaza are popular venues for weddings and special events. Unlike most public gardens, the Botanical Garden of the Ozarks was cultivated by a volunteer-led, grassroots effort, and the Center’s calendar of events is filled with creative events that are open to the public. From June through August, the garden opens every Tuesday evening from 5–8 p.m. for Terrific Tuesday Nights, a family friendly event featuring concerts and educational programs and demonstrations. Art in the Garden, Chefs in the Garden, and the Firefly Fling are just a few of the annually scheduled events posted on the garden’s website. Adults (13 and older) are $7; kids 5–12 are $4; children younger than 5 are free. The gardens also offer free admission Saturday mornings from 9–noon.

Compton Gardens (479-254-3870; www.comptongardens.org), 312 North Main Street, Bentonville. Hours: dawn through dusk daily. In 2002, the Peel House Foundation was given the 6.5-acre garden and home of Dr. Neil Compton, physician, author, photographer, naturalist, and savior of the Buffalo River. The garden has been developed into a native woodland garden, which is quickly becoming a regional destination. This beautiful and peaceful environment contains an extensive native and woodland plant collection. The garden is dedicated to the advancement and appreciation of gardening, horticulture, and conservation within an aesthetic landscape. The Compton home site has been remodeled to incorporate a conference center on its upper level. The lower level is home to the Northwest Arkansas Genealogical Society, the Benton County Historical Society, and the Benton County Cemetery Preservation Group. Admission is free for self-guided tours.

images To Do

Arkansas & Missouri Railroad (1-800-687-8600; arkansasmissouri-rr.com), 306 East Emma, Springdale. Travel through the Boston Mountains in vintage rail cars, on trestles over 125 feet high, and through the 1882 Winslow tunnel. Three excursions are offered, including one from Springdale to Van Buren with a layover for shopping and lunch. (See River Valley listing for more details.)

Scott Family Amazeum (479-696-9280; www.amazeum.org), 1009 Museum Way, Bentonville. Open Monday and Wednesday through Saturday 10–5, Sunday 1–5; closed Tuesday. This 45,000-square-foot playground emphasizes interactive art and science exhibits, including a climbable canopy structure, a “tinkering studio” for young inventors, and an acre of outdoor space. Exhibits include a market sponsored by Walmart, a pioneer-style cabin and farm, a water play room, a weather and nature section, and an art lab. There is a special Hershey’s Chocolate Lab, the only one outside of the company’s headquarters in Pennsylvania. The Nickelodeon Lab allows kids to play around with filmmaking and musical composition. The experiences are designed to foster imaginative play, prompt social interaction, and have the flexibility to provide new and evolving challenges as visitors grow and return to the gallery on repeat visits. Throughout the experiences, Nickelodeon characters provide encouragement and participate in the fun via graphics, digital representations, and as the subjects of the activities. Admission is $9.50 for everybody over 2 years of age.

SPAS Belladerm (479-521-BELL; www.belladermfay.com), 577 East Millsap Road, Fayetteville. Open Monday through Thursday 10–6, Friday 10–5, Saturday by appointment only. Warm brick walls give Belladerm an edgy industrial feel, but the grand crystal chandelier reminds you that you are in an elegant salon. It is a fitting environment for the cutting edge beauty treatments from which you can choose. Belladerm’s signature facial is 75 minutes of steam, exfoliation, massage, hydrating/soothing masque, extractions, AHA peel, and/or partial Dermasound. Oxygen infusion therapy, Dermatude, HydraFacials, a variety of peels, and several other non-invasive alternatives to face lifts are also available.

Glo Limited (479-571-4456; www.glolimited.com), 577 East Millsap Road, Fayetteville. Open Monday through Friday 10–5, Saturday 10–4. This elegant salon’s menu includes facials, massages, manicures, pedicures, microdermabrasion, and micro peel. Facials last about an hour and are customized for each customer featuring NaturaBisse products. Hand and arm massage are also part of the treatment. You can get waxed, scrubbed, and wrapped. Botox and Juvederm injections are also available. Facials range from $70–$175, and massages range from $70–$175, dependent upon the length of the session. This is a great place to pick up high-end makeup, and the Glo Girls are happy to share samples when they are available.

SPECTATOR SPORTS Northwest Arkansas Naturals (479-927-4900; www.nwanaturals.com), I-540, Springdale. Based in Springdale, the team is a member of the Texas League and serves as the Double-A affiliate of the Kansas City Royals. The Naturals season consists of 140 games—70 home games and 70 road games—and is five months long, beginning in early April and finishing Labor Day weekend. Typical game times are 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 4 p.m. Sunday. Special event game times will occur at various points throughout the season. The stadium is centrally located off I-540 at the southwest corner of 56th and Watkins.

University of Arkansas (479-575-2000; www.uark.edu). This scenic campus includes a number of historically significant structures, including the two towers of Old Main (completed in 1875), the Chi Omega Greg Theatre (built in 1930), and Edward Durrell Stone’s Fine Arts Center (1950). Just west of Old Main is the Fulbright Peace Fountain, designed by E. Fay Jones and commemorating the work of J. William Fulbright to promote international understanding. A nearby statue of Fulbright was dedicated by former president Bill Clinton. The Inn at Carnall Hall, a former women’s dormitory, is now a unique lodging option on campus. Other university sites include the University of Arkansas Sports Museums, Anne Kittrell Gallery, Fine Arts Center Gallery, Mullins Library, and Senior Walk.

images Wild Places

Hobbs State Park–Conservation Area (479-789-2380; www.arkansasstateparks.com), 20201 East AR 12, Rogers. Arkansas’s largest state park in land area sits on 11,744 acres on the southern shore of 28,320-acre Beaver Lake. Starting in the 1840s and continuing throughout his life, Peter Van Winkle, a successful Fayetteville wagon maker, acquired vast amounts of land in northwest Arkansas. The current property that makes up Hobbs State Park Conservation Area was part of Van Winkle’s holdings and is rich with archaeological artifacts relating to Van Winkle’s home and sawmill, which was the first steam-driven sawmill in Arkansas. The park is a natural area with little development. It currently offers hiking trails, an all-weather public shooting range, regulated seasonal hunting, undeveloped access to the lake, and interpretive programs. A multiuse trail with access to the Van Winkle Historical Site was opened in 2005. The area features remnants of the sawmill and an antebellum garden. Arkansas Archeological Survey digs have unearthed evidence of Van Winkle’s estate—slave quarters, a blacksmith shop, a slave graveyard, a mill site, the Van Winkle house site, and nineteenth-century dump sites. The park has four hiking trails, including a 0.25-mile barrier-free historical trail and a 16-mile multiuse trail. The story of this natural area is told through creative interpretive programming and exhibits displayed in the park visitor center.

PARKS Lake Fort Smith State Park (479-369-2469; www.arkansasstateparks.com/lakefortsmith), US 71, Mountainburg. Located on the western side of 1,400-acre Lake Fort Smith, this state park reopened in May 2008 in a completely new location due to the expansion of Lake Fort Smith and Lake Shepherd Springs into one reservoir to serve Fort Smith. The park evokes the WPA-style of its previous incarnation and features all new facilities, including campsites (20 Class AAA and 10 Class B), a group lodge with kitchenette that can accommodate up to 32 people (16 in each wing), picnic sites, pavilion, a 2,660-square-foot swimming pool with adjacent wading pool and splash pad, marina with boat rentals, double-lane boat launch ramp, hiking trails, a playground, and an 8,000-square-foot visitor center with exhibits, a meeting/classroom, and an outdoor patio featuring a native stone wood-burning fireplace and a view toward the lake. The exhibit gallery tells the story of how, through time, good water made this valley a place of hope, faith, and sacrifice. The gallery includes a log cabin, covered wagon, re-created Shepherd Spring, and a diorama of the lake. A 16-minute video further connects the water resources of this valley with man’s presence here. Interpretive programs are offered in the park throughout the year by the park staff. Campsites range from $27 a day for the Class AAA sites to $17 for Class B. Call the park for group rates.

LAKES Ask a local in Fayetteville, Rogers, or Springdale what they do for fun, and four out of five will recommend Beaver Lake (479-636-1210; www.beaver lake.com). The 28,370-acre reservoir with 487 miles of shoreline, completed in 1966, was one of the first Corps of Engineers reservoirs in the country to supply the municipal and industrial water supply needs for a community. The lake’s clear waters and idyllic setting encouraged the corps to further invest in recreational facilities that capitalize on its natural beauty. Paved access roads wind through 12 developed parks. Over 650 individual campsites are sprawled over 2,008 acres in the Ozark Highlands. Campers can enjoy such conveniences as electricity and fire rings. Drinking water, showers, and restrooms are nearby. Other facilities—picnic sites, swimming beaches, hiking trails, boat-launching ramps, sanitary dump stations, group picnic shelters, and amphitheaters—are also available in the parks. Marinas and outfitters are plentiful. Cabins, resorts, and other lodging ring the lake, and campgrounds are also available in good number.

Lake Atalanta (479-621-1117), Rogers. Two parks are located here. The city park on the lake has 17 acres with two handicapped-accessible restrooms, a large stage area, 27 picnic tables, a 2-mile walking trail with 18 exercise stations, large reflection pond with fountain, pavilion, miniature golf course, and a 100-year-old cabin available for small groups. The complex includes Lake Atalanta Bait Shop, with paddleboats, canoes, and fishing boat rentals available. Built in 1936, it is the second oldest park in Rogers. Other amenities include an Olympic-sized swimming pool with water slide and concessions. A 4,000-square-foot banquet facility can be rented for groups. There is also an 8,000-square-foot special event building that seats 680 people, with tables, chairs, and kitchen available. Below the Lake Atalanta Dam is a park that was completed in 1987. Full of beautiful mature trees, it contains 12 picnic tables, a playground, and is also connected to the 2-mile walking trail.

images Lodging

21C Museum Hotel (1-855-535-0273; www.21cmuseumhotels.com/bentonville) 200 Northeast A Street, Bentonville. Travel + Leisure magazine ranked 21C in the top 15 city hotels in the nation in the 2017 edition of its World’s Best Awards. If you love art, unique lodging, and great dining, this is a must-see-stay-do for the northwest corner of the state. The hotel features more than 12,000 square feet of exhibit space showcasing modern American artists in various mediums. Staff are briefed on the collections when they rotate every six months, and you will meet more than a few employees with art degrees who moved to Bentonville just to work at this hotel because they love art. The guest rooms and suites are spacious, with high ceilings, large windows, and a decidedly residential feel, providing a comfortable respite from the thought-provoking art and activity that fills the museum galleries. Outfitted with custom-designed furniture, comfortable beds, plush robes, and MALIN+GOETZ bath amenities, the rooms will make you feel refreshed, restored, and ready to explore. Room rates vary greatly and are based on availability, but you can expect to pay between $300 a night for a deluxe king up to $600 a night for a luxury suite. James Beard finalist Matt McClure’s restaurant, The Hive, provides the culinary artistry for the hotel. McClure elevates all the things grown local to a level you would never expect in a town with a population of 50,000. $$–$$$.

Aloft (479-268-6799; www.aloftrogers.com), 1103 South 52nd Street, Rogers. Aloft is just a few minutes from the global headquarters of Walmart, J. B. Hunt, and Tyson Foods, enhancing its popularity with corporate travelers. Easy access to Pinnacle Hills Promenade Shopping Center, golf courses, plus countless dining choices also attracts a healthy number of leisure travelers in addition to providing recreational and entertainment activities for business travelers. The hotel’s lobby bar is a cozy place for an after-dinner drink, and a 24/7 pantry stocks sweet, savory, and healthy snacks for your midnight cravings. Complimentary wireless is available hotelwide. Ultra-comfortable beds and oversized showers are standard in all rooms, as well as their nifty plug-and-play connectivity center for charging your electronics and linking to the 42-inch plasma TV. Room rates range from $109 per day for a standard room to $219 for the Aloft upgrade featuring the hotel’s signature Performance platform bed. $$–$$$.

Inn at Carnall Hall (1-800-295-9118; www.innatcarnallhall.com), 465 North Arkansas Avenue, Fayetteville. This completely restored 1906 building is now a first-class inn offering a unique lodging experience on the University of Arkansas campus. Carnall Hall is the U of A’s second-oldest building and its first women’s dormitory. Of course, its previous residents didn’t enjoy the numerous amenities available for guests today. The inn has 50 guest rooms, 6 with hot tubs.

Guests are pampered with nightly baked biscotti on their pillows, plush Egyptian cotton linens, high-speed Internet access, and valet parking. You will find almost as many locals as guests in the richly appointed, 50-seat lounge downstairs. Alumni rallied around the building’s conversion to public lodging and support the lounge and adjacent restaurant, Ella’s at Carnall Hall, through regular patronage. They will be more than happy to share stories of their good old college days on campus and share some insider insights into the many special events happening around town. Fayetteville is known for the excellence of its culinary products, with literally dozens of outstanding restaurants for every cuisine imaginable. But you need look no further than Ella’s for a superior fine-dining experience. The menu leans toward nouveau cuisine, and menu items change regularly based on the season. A continental buffet breakfast served daily features bagels, fruit, yogurt, pastries, cereal, and gourmet coffees. A full menu is also available and highly recommended. If you like pancakes, Ella’s rank with the best in the state. Smothered in fresh strawberries and dusted with powdered sugar, they will make you want to wake up early. $$–$$$.

LODGES AND CABINS Rocky Branch Resort (479-925-1688; www.rockybranchresorts.com), 20510 Park Road, Rogers. Rocky Branch Resort on Beaver Lake has a few different options for you to consider based on your lodging needs: the 14-room lodge; a cabin with fireplace and Jacuzzi; the Lake House; and the Treetop House. The freestanding units each sleep eight, and all have access to the resort’s swimming pool. An air-conditioned cabin sleeps people comfortably in two bedrooms with a king bed in each and a single sleeper sofa in the lounge. There is a huge fireplace in the living room, a Jacuzzi tub in the bathroom, a fully stocked kitchen, and a satellite TV with a DVD and stereo. The main lodge has 14 spacious and well-maintained rooms, all but 2 with kitchenettes. All rooms are furnished with a table and four chairs and have one king-, two queen-, or two full-sized beds. All rooms have combination tub/shower units. Outside each room are picnic tables, patio furniture, benches, and charcoal grills. The kitchenette units include a refrigerator, stove top, microwave, coffeepot, crock pot, and all the pots, pans, dishes, glassware, and flatware that you will need to make it seem like a home away from home.

The three-bedroom Lake House is huge and will very comfortably accommodate eight people. Just 50 yards from Beaver Lake’s shoreline, this unit is perfect for a weeklong stay. You will feel like you are home with the cozy living room with fireplace, family room, 36-inch satellite TV with DVD player, fully equipped kitchen, two bathrooms, and a sun porch for relaxing at the water’s edge.

The spacious and airy Treetop House is perched on top of the hill overlooking the resort. The beautifully appointed property will comfortably accommodate up to eight people with three bedrooms, two baths, and two fireplaces, making it a great getaway for large families or multiple couples. Two large living areas, a 54-inch satellite TV with surround sound and a DVD player provide all of the comforts of home. High-season rates for lodge rooms are $98 for rooms and $119 for suites nightly, the cabin rents for $229 per night, the Lake House is $399 per night, and the Treetop House rent for $359 per night. Off-season rates average $20 less per night for each property. $$–$$$.

BOUTIQUE INN Pratt Place Inn & Barn (479-966-4441; www.prattplaceinn.com), 2231 West Markham Road, Fayetteville. Pratt Place Inn on Sassafras Hill is a unique retreat in an urban milieu, which the third generation of the Pratt family is preserving. Just a few blocks west of the University of Arkansas campus, this elegant property tucks you away in peaceful solitude that is only disturbed when 80,000 fans are calling The Hogs. The seven-room inn is located on the hilltop property that Cassius and Margaret Pratt purchased in 1900. The house, built in 1895, was at the time the only house west of the university. The residence and its surroundings became known as Pratt Place, a name that is reborn with the restoration and expansion of the original house into one of America’s premier inns. Nearby is the English cottage Evangeline Pratt and her husband Julian Waterman built in 1929. In addition, there is a classical gambrel-roof barn in the adjacent pasture. These houses and barn are situated on 140 acres, now in the heart of Fayetteville between the university and I-540.

No expense was spared during the restoration, with each of the seven rooms richly appointed with antiques collected by its current owners during their world travels. All, however, have pillow-top king-sized beds, museum-quality French armoires, Ch’ing Dynasty wedding chests as TV cabinets, Persian rugs on hardwood floors, fireplaces, marble bathrooms with walk-in showers and double whirlpool tubs, and separate water closets. Five have private verandas overlooking the inn’s manicured grounds, woods, and the four Haflinger horses grazing in the pasture.

The Catalpa is the queen’s room of the mansion; its bathroom features a solid marble hand-carved replica of Cleopatra’s bathtub with two matching marble basins. This sumptuous bathroom also has a large walk-in shower. The room, with its bright periwinkle walls and king-sized canopy bed, has a large private veranda overlooking Sassafras Hills’ woods and pasture. Guests awaken to fresh fruit, scones, juice, and coffee, either in-room or in the dining room. The scones are perfection with a slightly crispy exterior and fluffy, sweet center. In the evenings, complimentary refreshments are served in the lounge or on the large wraparound porch. The inn has a private dining room, in-house spa, 49-seat conference room, and a media center. It sits on 140 acres atop Sassafras Hill and has 2 miles of private walking trails in the woods. Pratt Place Barn holds up to 350 and is used for weddings, parties, dances, and tailgating. Room rates range from $269 a night for the Catalpa to $199. A quaint, but well appointed two-bedroom cottage is also on the property, renting out for $495 nightly. Well-behaved children are welcome, pets are not. $$$.

RESORTS AND LODGES Devil’s Den State Park (479-761-3325; www.arkansasstateparks.com), 11333 West AR 74, West Fork. This park’s rustic wood and stone structures date back to the 1930s, constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps, FDR’s answer to the country’s need to employ an idle workforce and provide much-needed conservation and development of the country’s natural resources. An impressive rock dam spans Lee Creek near the park’s restaurant, where a life-sized statue of a CCC worker pays homage to the enduring legacy left by this hard-working group of men. Every day, park interpreters organize a pickup game of softball with park visitors, a tradition that began with the CCC men who built Devil’s Den State Park. The turnout for the daily tribute is surprisingly heavy, and players range from elementary school–aged children to their grandparents. Fishing, canoeing, kayaking, and pedal boating are popular activities on Lake Devil, an 8-acre lake adjacent to the park’s restaurant and swimming pool. Hiking, backpacking, and mountain bike trails wind through the crevices and caves that frequently inspire park visitors to linger in their cool spaces. Park interpreters lead guided hikes along the park’s many trails, including the 15-mile Butterfield Hiking Trail. Seventeen cabins with kitchens and fireplaces, a group camp, standard pavilion, swimming pool, playground, and park store all bear the signature style of the CCC. The park also offers 143 campsites, including 42 located in the Horse Camp that have access to the horse trails as well as water and electrical connections. Cabin rental rates range from $100 per day for a studio with fireplace to $180 per day for a three-bedroom, two-bath cabin that has a fireplace and spa tub. Campsite rentals vary from $27/day for deluxe Class AAA sites with 50-amp electrical, water, and sewer to hike-ins (tent only) at $10/day. $–$$.

OUTFITTERS, CAMPING, RVS, AND CAMPGROUNDS Hideway Campground and RV Park (1-800-209-0081; www.beaverlakehideaway.com), 8369 Campground Circle, Rogers. This hideaway is tucked away on 66 acres along the shores of Beaver Lake, providing beautiful scenic views and easy access to the lake. The family-owned site offers its own amenities, including laundry facilities, a horseshoe pit, ping pong table, swimming pool, playground, convenience store, gift shop, tent sites, boat slips, cottages, and cabins. Daily rates are $20 for tent sites and $24–$26 for RV sites. The cottages rent for $35 a night and include a double bed, sleeper sofa, and microwave, but you will need to bring your own bedding. Poolside cabins include a queen bed, kitchenette, all utensils, and bedding, and are $60 nightly. A lakeside cabin with two full beds, full kitchen, outdoor grill, all utensils, and linens is $70 per night. $.

images Where to Eat

EATING OUT Emelia’s Kitchen (479-527-9800), 309 West Dickson Street, Fayetteville. When Kevork and Sara Ouyoumjian opened Emelia’s Kitchen on Dickson Street more than a decade ago, they had a clear vision of the flavors and feel they hoped to deliver to their diners. The menu is inspired by the traditional Armenian recipes of Kevork’s mother, Emelia Ouyoumjian, and updated with a Mediterranean flair. The menu includes kebabs made of lamb, shrimp, steak, chicken, and veggies ranging in price from $13–$18 per portion. Specialty items like chicken piccata, roasted pork loin, and citrus salmon range in price from $15 to $19 a plate. On Wednesdays and Sundays, Emelia’s offers a “Date Night Special,” that includes an appetizer, side salads, entrées, dessert, and a bottle of wine for $55 per couple. Brunch is served Friday, Saturday, and Sunday with spins on traditional brunch fare such as Lobster Eggs Benedict and specialty cocktails. $$–$$$.

The Farmers Table (479-966-4125; www.thefarmerstablecafe.com) 1079 School Avenue, Fayetteville. The Farmer’s Table serves breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Sunday from 7 a.m.–3 p.m.; dinner is served Friday and Saturday nights from 5–9 p.m. Locally sourced ingredients are spotlighted here, and each menu item names the specific farm, dairy, mill, or bakery providing the fresh products featured. You’ll find standard breakfast items like egg sandwiches, omelets, pancakes, and hash elevated by the quality of the produce, meats, cheese, and grains. Sweet potato pancakes, topped with candied pecans and cinnamon butter are a local favorite. Sandwiches and burgers comprise a significant portion of the lunch and dinner menus. A few specialty dishes emerge on the dinner menu, including orange beef, summer pappardelle, eggplant steak, and fried chicken. This is a great spot for vegetarians with substantial and creative choices beyond salads and grilled veggies. In addition to the eggplant steak and summer pappardelle, the swiss kraut banzo features a garbanzo patty and the mushroom mash gets its heartiness from vegan sausage. $–$$.

Herman’s Ribhouse (479-442-9671), 2901 North College, Fayetteville. This local icon is legendary for . . . wait for it . . . their ribs. Herman’s has been a Fayetteville favorite for decades, its smoky scents tantalizing drivers as they pass the faded, whitewashed brick building. The ribs are fall-off-the-bone tender, served with your choice of baked beans, potato salad, or creamy coleslaw. In addition to the ribs that made them famous, menu items include standard American fare; Herman’s hamburgers are a popular second choice. Herman’s is packed on weekends, so prepare for a wait if dining in prime time. $–$$.

Oven and Tap Restaurant and Bar (501-658-7724; www.ovenandtap.com), 215 Main Street, Bentonville. Bright and airy, this is the place your craft beer lover will remember. Named for the custom-built wood stove and tap wall that is the heart and inspiration for the restaurant, Oven and Tap’s menu is both rustic and contemporary. In addition to an inventive selection of wood-fired pizzas, the restaurant makes every item from scratch with locally sourced ingredients whenever they are available. Imagine homemade lasagna kissed with smokiness from that big wood stove. Almost anything you can cook in an oven they can cook in a wood stove, delivering a signature spin on classic dishes. Sixteen craft beers are poured from the tap wall, and house-made cocktails round out the libations available. Oven and Tap’s large deck is a great place to capitalize on the mild climate of northwest Arkansas, people watch, and enjoy fresh, homemade dishes that are a little bit Southern and a little bit Italian. $$.

The Hive (479-286-6575; www.21cmuseumhotels.com/bentonville/category/the-hive), 200 Northeast A Street, Bentonville. This chef-driven restaurant in the 21C Museum Hotel marries perfectly with the hotel’s brand. Chef Matt McClure’s approach to his menus reflects a respect for the farmers and ranchers in the region with an emphasis on the state’s culinary identity. Bone up on your lingo before you go because his food is so delicious you will be searching for words to describe it. McClure transforms ingredients into works of art. How does he coax so much flavor from a tomato for his gazpacho? Have you ever had a crispy pig tail? Imagine succulent pork ribs encased in a crispy light skin. McClure could probably make shoe leather tasty. He was a finalist or semifinalist for James Beard’s Best Chef in the South in 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, and 2018. Food and Wine magazine named him The People’s Best Chef in the Midwest in 2015. In 2014, Southern Living magazine named The Hive’s bar to its Top 100 Bars in the nation list; featured cocktails vary with the season and the harvest. Watch the master work in the open kitchen or take in the hotel’s art displayed throughout. A piece titled “BuzzKill” is designed to engage viewers with hidden surprises only uncovered when the three-dimensional piece is explored. Reservations are recommended. $$$.

Tusk & Trotter American Brasserie (479-268-4494; www.tuskandtrotter.com), 110 Southeast A Street, Bentonville. Open Monday 4–9:30, Tuesday through Thursday 11–9:30, Friday 11–11, Saturday 10–11, Sunday 10–9. Housed in Sam Walton’s former office and warehouse just off the town square, Tusk & Trotter retained the best features of the old building: exposed trusses, acid-stained concrete floors, Sam’s original warehouse door. Because it’s one of the few downtown restaurants open on Sunday afternoons, many tourists find it simply because it is open. Most leave planning to come back because there is more on the menu they want to try. Regulars advise to visit at least four times a year because the menu changes with the seasons—duck in the winter and lamb in the spring. Brunch is also a favorite, and it isn’t just about the bacon. Pommes Frites, Duck Ham Benedict, Figgy French Toast, Lemon Souffle Pancakes, and Crispy Pig Ear Salad share space harmoniously on the spring menu. There is a surprise and flavor for every diner at Tusk and Trotter. And, just as the name implies, from nose to tail, the chefs use local products in a sustainable manner. $$–$$$.

DINING OUT Bordino’s (479 527 6795;bordinos.com), 310 West Dickson Street, Fayetteville. Bordino’s serves upscale Italian fare in an elegant, modern environment. Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch from 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; for brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; and for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5–10 p.m., and Saturday from 5–11 p.m. Craft drinks and an innovative small plate menu make Bordino’s a local favorite. Highlights includes unctuous meatballs made with beef tenderloin and the charcuterie with its array of pate, cheese, sausage, and spicy condiments, while the vegan crabcakes and crispy Cajun-inspired calamari are worthy of a second visit if you skip them the first time. Pasta dishes, except the lasagnas, are available with gluten free options. The seafood risotto is rich with seafood and topped with a luscious bourbon mascarpone crema. Smoked duck breast, beef tenderloin, salmon, and pork Porterhouse highlight the proteins featured in specialty dishes composed with locally sourced ingredients whenever possible. $$–$$$.

Ella’s Restaurant (479-582-1400; www.innatlhall.com), Maple and Arkansas Avenues, Fayetteville. This world-class restaurant is located in the historic Inn at Carnall Hall, a former women’s dormitory that is now an upscale boutique hotel on the University of Arkansas campus. Heirloom vegetables are prominent throughout the menu; the heirloom tomato salad with fresh basil and buffalo mozzarella is a local favorite. The menu favors northern Italian cuisine, with homemade pastas and wood-fired pizzas topped generously with fresh herbs and fine cheeses. Seared fresh tuna and aged Angus beef are among the American entrées perfectly prepared in the kitchen at Ella’s. A number of excellent desserts are offered, with sorbet flavors changing daily. The restaurant also serves breakfast, with a choice between a continental buffet of pastries, fruit, cereal, and gourmet coffees and a full menu of omelets, egg and meat combos, waffles, and melt-in-your-mouth pancakes dressed with fresh strawberries and powdered sugar. Dinner for two with wine, appetizer, and dessert will run you about $150. Breakfast, off the menu, averages about $15 per person. $$–$$$.

Pesto Café (479-582-3330; www.pestocafe.com), 1830 North College, Fayetteville. Open Monday through Thursday 11–10, Friday and Saturday 11–11. Fayetteville’s first choice for gourmet Italian is Pesto Café, known for the rich, flavorful sauces that adorn their homemade pastas and pizza. Pesto and blended farm cheeses are favored ingredients on a number of the house’s specialty pizzas, which vary in price from $9.95 for the Pesto (an herb-based thin crust topped with pepperoni, fresh tomatoes, blended farm cheeses, fresh herbs, and pine nuts) to $11.95 for Le Chicken Coupe (pesto, bell peppers, grilled chicken, artichoke hearts, purple onions, squash, zucchini, carrots, sun-dried tomatoes, and farm cheeses). Naturally, classic Italian dishes like the lasagna will pass the taste test of all of The Family, with handmade pasta and homemade tomato sauce. On the more exotic side of the menu, Seafood Vera Cruz (with fresh shrimp and scallops seared with shallots, bell peppers, white wine, cilantro pesto, and capers, served over angel hair pasta in a cream sauce) highlights the café’s gourmet designation. The lasagna is served with angel hair pasta and is a bargain at $13.95. Even the specialty dishes, like the Seafood Vera Cruz, only top out at $23. The portions here are large and the desserts are excellent, so you might want to think doggie bag, or share your meal just to try the tiramisu or pear Frangelico (a pear sautéed in Frangelico, cinnamon, and nutmeg, served over vanilla ice cream). Both are under $5. Pesto features live music on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. $$.

Theo’s Bar & Dining Room (479-527-0086; www.theosfayetteville.com), 318 North Campbell Avenue, Fayetteville. Theo’s opened in 2005 and rapidly popped on the radar of Fayetteville foodies for its first-rate service, inviting atmosphere, but most significantly its sophisticated and elegant menu that is impeccably prepared by Executive Chef Brian Aaron. Theo’s is named after owner Scott E. Bowman’s father and grandfather, and Bowman’s passion for the restaurant is evident in every detail of its decor, design, and delivery. Gleaming black leather banquettes line the dark-paneled walls of the inviting 66-seat dining room, which is decorated with contemporary art. But Fayetteville’s mild weather makes the large patio irresistible seven months of the year. Restaurant aside, Theo’s is a destination for its cocktails alone. Famous for its martinis, the cocktail menu is as extensive as most restaurants’ dinner menus. Dozens of flavors of martinis, mojitos four ways, and specialty infusions live up to Theo’s philosophy of the drink, and the last sip is as good as the first. Appetizers are equally creative. For example, the quesadillas feature duck, jack cheese, crème fraîche, and tamarind BBQ sauce ($8). Pastas are made fresh in-house daily and range in price from $14–18 (try the lobster ravioli). In addition to their Italian dishes, the American Kitchen Classics menu includes bone-in double-cut veal chop ($29), seared rare filet of ahi tuna ($29), and molasses-marinated pork tenderloin ($24). The latter is served with a creamy cornbread pudding, haricots verts, and a bourbon reduction, and will make you want to kiss the cook. $$–$$$.

images Entertainment

DRIVE-IN THEATER 112 Drive-In (479-442-4542), 3352 AR 112, Fayetteville. The cooler climes of the Ozark Mountains are perfect for an old-time American favorite—the drive-in. The 112 Drive-In shows recently released, full-length movies for a $12-per-car admission. Open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Call for showtimes, as they have a tendency to run toward oh-dark-thirty.

NIGHTLIFE Dickson Street Entertainment District (479-571-3337; www.downtowndickson.com), Fayetteville. This colorful, eclectic area located near the University of Arkansas campus is filled with bistros, nightclubs, and galleries, and is home to the impressive Walton Arts Center. You’ll find a couple of local landmarks here, as well as two microbreweries.

Brewski’s Restaurant & Draft Emporium (479-973-6969), 408 West Dickson Street, Fayetteville. This microbrewery, one of two in Fayetteville, has an excellent selection of house brews, plus a full bar. Brewski’s menu features all-American favorites in the Dickson Street entertainment district.

Hog Haus Brewing Company (479-521-2739; www.ozarkbrew.com), 430 West Dickson Street, Fayetteville. Hog Haus Brewing Company has a complete bar, with domestic and imported beer on tap as well. Haus house specialties include Haus-made ales, an array of traditional and eclectic appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches, pizzas, steak, fish, and more. Hog Haus is located directly across the street from the Walton Art Center, toward the university’s end of Dickson Street. The second-floor balcony tables are perfect for enjoying Fayetteville’s mild climate and people-watching on Dickson Street.

SPORTS Arvest Ballpark (479-927-4900; www.nwanaturals.com), 3000 South 56th Street (off I-540 at the southwest corner of 56th and Watkins), Springdale. Home field for the Northwest Arkansas Naturals, a minor league baseball team based in Springdale. This beautiful park, named one of the country’s best new ballparks in 2008 by Ballpark.com, also hosts concerts and special events throughout the year. Built with natural stone mined in local quarries, the stadium is a refreshing departure from traditional red brick facilities and is particularly appropriate for a team known as The Naturals. Iron and glass enhance the open feel of the stadium, capitalizing on the scenic setting on which the park was built. Native plants are thoughtfully placed on the grounds, and lighted canopies finish the stadium providing a unique ambience for evening events and games. Performance schedule and ticket information is available on their website.

THEATER Arkansas Public Theatre (479-631-8988; www.arkansaspublictheatre.org), 116 South Second Street, Rogers. Call for showtimes. The Victory Theater, listed on the National Register, was designed by architect A. O. Clark and opened as the first motion picture theater in northwest Arkansas in 1927. The historic building is now the site for theater, concerts, and children’s shows. Performance and ticket information is available online. At the theater’s inception, founders Charley Marshall and John Cooper sought to enrich the relatively new town of Rogers, Arkansas, with a site that would bring entertainment and news to the town from many miles away. They invested $75,000, and with Clarke’s vision established a showplace not only for entertainment, but more importantly a place that people would be drawn to for decades. There is an inherent difficulty in trying to make a place. But with Rogers being relatively new as a town, the theater essentially acted as a common fairground for the development of the town’s sense of community.

images Selective Shopping

Artist Point Gift Shop & Museum (479-369-2226), 19924 US 71 Scenic Byway, Mountainburg. Open 9–5 daily. This scenic byway was the first major artery to traverse the Boston Mountains, linking the communities on the Springfield Plateau with the Arkansas River Valley. It’s hard to imagine the obstacles they encountered when they tackled this rugged terrain to build this road, but their efforts have been appreciated by the millions of awestruck travelers who have driven it since. With every mile you travel, yet another breathtaking view awaits. Most drivers start looking for a place to pull over and snap a photo shortly after they exit I-40 at Alma. Just about the time you are ready to park on the winding road’s gravel shoulder, you will reach Artist Point. Its observation deck overlooks a stunning view of the Boston Mountains with Lake Shepherd Springs and White Rock Mountain in the distance. Telescopes are available for a closer look. This family-owned business is run by the second and third generations. The gift shop has a variety of unique items, including handmade dolls, Indian artifacts, homemade jams and jellies, and other small treasures, all of which are produced by local craftsmen. Artist Point also has hiking trail access.

Dickson Street Bookshop (479-442-8182), 325 West Dickson Street, Fayetteville. Open Monday through Saturday 10–6. Antiquarians lose themselves for hours on end in this city landmark. Sure, every college has its used bookstore, shuffling the owners of collegiate texts. At the Dickson Street Bookshop, you will find 100,000 used and out-of-print books. It’s an excellent spot for hunters of antique and rare volumes.

Fayetteville Farmers’ Market, Downtown Square, Fayetteville. Open April through November, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday 7–1. The Fayetteville’s Farmers’ Market is one of the most popular and successful venues for localvores in Arkansas. It’s hard to say whether it is the charm of its downtown setting, or the quality and variety of freshly grown produce and handmade crafts that set it apart. Without a doubt, it’s a winning combination for the thousands of people lucky enough to stock their pantries amid its festive atmosphere. Saturday shoppers are frequently serenaded by talented musicians as they browse through everything from hand-thrown pottery to potted herbs and houseplants.

House of Webster (1-800-369-4641; www.houseofwebster.com), 1013 North Second Street, Rogers. Open daily 10–6. The House of Webster has successfully promoted the Ozark palate since its 1934 inception. Webster’s huge selection of Ozark food products includes jams, jellies, and preserves made from tame and rare wild fruits, War Eagle meats, and Hickory Creek cheese and candy. Homestyle pickles, relishes, and salsa are all packed in one-pint Mason fruit jars, labeled in longhand with gold-lacquered lids, just like your grandma did. Or maybe Martha Stewart’s grandmother. Cleverly titled packages, like The County Fair, bear colorful descriptions in true Ozark Mountain fashion—“made from wild and native fruit that is gathered by rugged mountaineers from the dwindling patches along the ravines, creek banks, ledges, and ridges . . . from deep in the wilderness.” The House of Webster also stocks canister sets and early American replica appliances.

Mount Sequoyah Gift Center (479-251-7754; www.mountsequoyah.org), 150 Northwest Skyline Drive, Fayetteville. Call ahead to confirm hours of operation. This gift center is located on the grounds of Mount Sequoyah Conference Center in the heart of Fayetteville. Mount Sequoyah specializes in Fair Trade gifts from around the world. Featured merchants include Ten Thousand Villages, A Greater Gift, and World of Good. Set amid 30 acres of wilderness hiking trails, grassy lawns, and acres of flowers overlooking historic downtown and Dickson Street.

Ozark Folkways Heritage Center (479-634-3791; www.ozarkfolkways.org), 22733 North US 71 Scenic Loop, Winslow. Open daily 9–5. Ozark Folkways is a unique learning center complete with a school of sculpture. The extensive gift shop features the work of about 145 native craftspeople, with art, pottery, heritage crafts, baskets, quilts, china paintings, dolls, jams, jellies, and woodwork. Have a free cup of coffee and learn about area culture, or learn a new craft such as wood carving or quilting.

Pinnacle Hills Promenade (479-936-2160; www.pinnaclehillspromenade.com), I-540, Rogers. Open Monday through Saturday 10–9, Sunday noon–6. White House/Black Market, Coach, Anne Taylor LOFT, Fossil, Build-A-Bear Workshop, and Hollister are just a few of the recognizable retailers you will find at this upscale center along I-540. While you stroll among elegant shops and lush landscaping, dine at one of many premium restaurants such as P. F. Chang’s China Bistro, Houlihan’s, Mimi’s Café, or Longhorn Steakhouse. A 12-screen theater entertains the browsers, while serious shoppers explore a unique collection of shops and restaurants.

Riverside Furniture Factory Outlet (479-621-6400; www.riverside-furniture.com), 100 North Dixieland Road, Suite C-1, Rogers. Call for hours. Rogers is blessed with this outlet store for Arkansas-owned and -operated Riverside Furniture Corporation, a century-old company with manufacturing facilities and corporate offices in Fort Smith. Riverside manufactures and imports bedroom furniture, dinettes, home office furniture, entertainment centers, wall units, and occasional furniture.

Terra Studios (1-800-255-8995; www.terrastudios.com), 12103 Hazel Valley Road, AR 16 in Durham. Open daily 10–5. This unique art park’s claim to fame is a little glass bird crafted from molten glass, first introduced by Leo Ward in 1982. Since their introduction, over 9 million bluebirds have been sold. Each is individually crafted by artisans at Terra Studios and signed and dated. But the grounds of this amazing facility will engage you whether or not you consider yourself artistic. Composed of several areas, each is made unique by the individual artists who helped create it. Take the Mural Garden, for example, where the murals are glazed stoneware tiles. The pavilion is ferrocement with stained glass inserts and a fountain in the middle. Glass bluebird demonstrations (call for schedule) will let you see the artists in action.

images Special Events

June: 66th Annual Rodeo of the Ozarks (479-927-0464; rodeooftheozarks.org), Parsons Stadium, Springdale. The Rodeo of the Ozarks has been recognized twice by the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association (PRCA) as one of the top five rodeos in the country. Nearly 500 contestants, all professional athletes, compete in seven PRCA- and Women’s Professional Rodeo Association sanctioned events—tie-down roping, steer wrestling, barrel racing, bareback riding, saddle bronc riding, team roping, and the ever-popular bull riding.

August: Annual Tontitown Grape Festival (479-361-2615; www.tontitowngrapefestival.com), St. Joseph Festival Grounds, Tontitown. Tontitown Grape Festival is a celebration of family, fun, and tradition. There is no other festival like this anywhere in the country, and this one has loyal attendees who come from all over Arkansas every year for the spaghetti dinner and the grape stomp. There is something for everyone—free shows from nationally recognized performers each night, a huge carnival, internationally famous homemade Italian spaghetti dinners, arts and crafts fair, and grape ice cream! Spaghetti dinner tickets are $10 for adults and $5 for children. Armband prices are $20 for all ages and all rides. Armbands are only $15 Saturday from noon–4.

September: Bikes, Blues, & BBQ Motorcycle Rally (479-527-9993; www.bikesbluesandbbq.org), Dickson Street and The Randal Tyson Track Center, Fayetteville. The largest nonprofit, family-friendly motorcycle rally in the country for people seeking to enjoy the best in motorcycle riding, blues music, and BBQ while helping those in need. The rally has donated over $2 million to local charities since 2000. During the day, all main stage entertainment is free. In addition, for a reasonable price, some of the biggest headliners in the country perform at the Arkansas Music Pavilion (AMP) on Thursday and Friday nights. Past acts have included Molly Hatchett and the Marshall Tucker Band. Admission to the rally is free. Admission to the Beer Garden is $1. Saturday night concert fees are listed on the website.

November: Lights of the Ozarks (1-800-766-4626; www.experiencefayette ville.com), Downtown Square, Fayetteville. Lights of the Ozarks illuminates Fayetteville’s historic town square in early November. The entire downtown square is transformed into a winter wonderland, with over 400,000 lights, street vendors, carriage rides, local coffee, food, miniature horses, and timeless holiday family fun.

The Salem Plateau and Eastern Boston Mountains

The Salem Plateau’s beauty spans the state’s northern border with Missouri. For years, it was cut off from modernization by the Boston Mountains, capturing each community in its own moment in time. If there were ever a part of the world where each community inspires its own snow globe, this part of Arkansas is it. Every bank in the road reveals the Ozarks in their glory, and you will wonder that it is even possible that there are so many different panoramas to behold in one place. From endearing Eureka Springs to laid-back Mountain Home, it’s possible to fill albums with photographs you shoot in one day.

AREA CODES Within this area, you will find all three of Arkansas’s area codes represented. Eureka Springs falls under the 479 area code; Harrison, just 30 minutes down the road, uses the 870 area code. The Heber Springs area is reached with the 501 area code.

GUIDANCE The Ozark Mountains have been one of the most popular recreational areas in the state for years, and you will find the abundance of chambers of commerce and visitor bureaus (not to mention local residents) are knowledgeable about their area and eager to enhance your stay.

Northwest Arkansas Tourism Association (479-855-1336; www.northwestarkansas.org) will provide you with an excellent overview of the events and attractions in the northwestern section (Eureka Springs area) of this region.

Ozark Mountain Region (1-800-544-6867; www.ozarkmountainregion.com) masterfully markets destinations in the central Ozarks, from the Buffalo River area to just east of Mountain View. You will find maps, driving tours, and blogs reporting everything from festival schedules to preferred baits.

Greers Ferry Lake and Little Red River Tourist Association (www.visitgreersferrylake.org) covers the lake and river, and the lodges, cabins, and attractions around both.

Ozark Gateway Tourist Council (1-800-264-0316; www.ozarkgateway.com) represents eight counties in the eastern third of the range, starting near Mountain View and extending to its foothills in the north Arkansas Delta.

Greater Eureka Springs Chamber of Commerce (479-253-8737; www.eurekaspringschamber.com) is conveniently located “up top,” above the historic downtown area, for tram tours, local maps, and information on whatever festival is scheduled during your stay (they seem to average one per week). Their well-maintained website is also a great resource for dining, area attractions, and the dozens (hundreds?) of bed & breakfast inns and cabins in the area.

Harrison Convention & Visitors Bureau (1-888-283-2163; www.harrisonarkansas.org) is your best resource the Buffalo River area’s lodging, dining, and event information.

Mountain Home Area Chamber of Commerce (870-425-5111; enjoymountainhome.com) provides information on the area’s two lakes, three rivers, mountain scenery, and local attractions.

MEDICAL EMERGENCIES North Arkansas Regional Medical Center (870-414-4000; www.narmc.com), 620 North Main, Harrison, is a 174-bed, fully certified medical facility providing a wide range of hospital services.

Baxter Regional Medical Center (870-508-1000; www.baxterregional.org), 624 Hospital Drive in Mountain Home, is rated one of the top medical facilities in the state and offers a complete menu of health-care services.

images Wandering Around

EXPLORING BY CAR The majority of the Ozark National Forest’s 1.2 million acres is located in northern Arkansas, and no turn is a wrong turn for adventurous explorers looking for spectacular views seen by only a handful of people every year. The Sylamore Scenic Byway (870-269-3228; www.fhwa.dot.gov/byways) allows you to experience the rugged beauty of the Ozarks from the comfort of your car. The 26.5-mile route serves as the primary link between the quaint and aptly named town of Calico Rock to the north, and one of the forest’s most unique treasures—the town of Mountain View—to the south. The first 16.5 miles of the byway follow AR 5 from the patchwork bluffs of Calico Rock to the banks of the White River in Allison, where it merges with AR 16 for 6.7 miles. The final 3 miles along Forest Service Road 1110 terminate at Blanchard Springs Caverns, named “one of the most extraordinary finds of the century” by Life magazine. The Sylamore Byway’s lengthy stretches along limestone bluffs, rushing waters, and tranquil pools entice you to stop frequently and savor every minute (or hour?) of the all-too-brief drive. Both Calico Rock and Mountain View have charming shopping opportunities, and camping is readily available at Blanchard Springs, Gunner Pool, and Barkshed Recreational Areas. This drive is particularly stunning in the fall, when the white oak–hickory forest saturates the landscape in brilliant hues of scarlet, ochre, and amber. If you are an art lover, the annual Off the Beaten Path Studio Tour held in September spotlights the brilliance of the season on the byway as well as the many talented artisans that reside alongside it.

EXPLORING BY FOOT Eureka Springs Historic Downtown Walking Tours (479-244-5074), Eureka Springs. Guided tours of this storied Victorian village are offered Thursday through Saturday, leaving from Basin Spring Park at 11 a.m., noon, and 1 p.m. The tour is free and takes about a half hour. Wear comfy walking shoes. No reservations required; just show up!

Black Bass Lake, Eureka Springs. This way-cool trail takes a half hour to walk, is within five minutes of downtown, and even though you’re in the city limits you’d swear you were in the deep woods. Maps and more information are available at the Eureka Springs Visitor Center.

Pigeon Roost Trail, Eureka Springs. East of Hobbs State Park Conservation Area (HSPCA) Visitor Center is the trailhead for the Pigeon Roost Trail, a figure-eight formation of two 4-mile loops. Hikers can choose either loop or the entire 8-mile walk. This moderately strenuous trail has breathtaking overlooks of Beaver Lake, campsites with fire rings, and uncommonly bountiful wildlife.

Hidden Diversity Trail, Eureka Springs. This trail is actually four loops—Little Clifty Creek Loop is 9 miles; War Eagle Loop, 5 miles; Bashore Ridge Loop, 3 miles; and Dutton Hollow Loop, 3 miles. Together, with an added 1 mile of connecting trail, Hidden Diversity offers 21 miles of manicured, mostly level trails for hiking, biking, and horseback riding. There are designated watering holes for horses, and some trails are wheelchair accessible. Hidden Diversity Trail is designed for day use and is not open for camping. Most of the trail is within half a mile of a highway, so should you feel lost, you’re not. Stay put, bring a whistle, and you will be found and turned around in short order.

Shaddox Hollow Trail, Eureka Springs. On AR 303, 1 mile north of AR 12, is the Shaddox Hollow Trail. This trail is only 1.5 miles long, winding along a ridge before dropping down to the actual hollow. Because the trail has its moments of dramatic descent, remember that it will have the same exhilarating slope coming back up the ridge.

EXPLORING BY RIVER High in the mountains of Madison County lie the beginnings of the Kings River. From this steep country the stream twists its way northward to the White River and finally flows into southern Missouri’s Table Rock Lake, a distance of approximately 90 miles. In its upper reaches, the Kings cuts a narrow gorge through sandstone, shale, and limestone. Downstream the surrounding countryside is not quite so precipitous, but the water is the same—clear and cool. The Kings’ most attractive features are the flora and fauna found along its rocky banks and bluffs. The headwaters area at Kings River Falls Natural Area is favored by hikers, while the rest of the river offers excellent floating and fishing. Deep pools, overhanging trees, occasional rapids, and several large bluffs adorn your journey, and you will find some fine gravel bars in the lower stretch of the river for breaks and picnicking. The state’s fondness for this special stream was formalized in 1971 when the Arkansas General Assembly passed legislation protecting the portion of the river in Madison County, noting that it “possesses unique scenic, recreational, and other characteristics in a natural, unpolluted and wild state.”

Little Red River emerges from the Greers Ferry Dam, providing the icy cold waters that are essential for a thriving trout population. Trout were introduced to the Little Red in 1966, some three years after the completion of the lake project. Rainbows, browns, and cutthroats are caught for some 35 river miles below the dam near Heber Springs. The world record for a brown trout is 40 pounds, 4 ounces, caught by Howard “Rip” Collins on this river in 1992. Brown trout weighing 5 to 8 pounds are common, and a 20- to 30-pounder is always possible. Mid-October through November is when brown trout begin their spawning run, making this an excellent time for fishing the Red. This popular Ozark Mountain tailwater trout stream is beautiful in its own special way, running clear and cold, skirted by scenic hardwood hillsides alive with wildlife—otters, raccoons, deer, ducks, songbirds, and eagles.

The North Fork (of the White) River originates in Missouri, crossing into Arkansas as an arm of Norfork Lake. It flows only a scant 5 miles below the Lake Norfork Dam before merging with the main White River at Norfork, and yet its fame for world-class trout fishing rivals any river in the state, with numerous 10-pound-plus brown trout landed from its depths. When the water is low, wade fishing, particularly fly-fishing, is popular; when the generators raise the river’s depth, anglers float its length in canoes and johnboats. The river is a natural laboratory for the advancement of trout fishing: the nutrient-rich water supports an abundant and healthy population of the fish, and several access points, both public and private, encourage anglers to take advantage of its thriving population. Quarry Park, just below Norfork Dam, has both a concrete boat-launching ramp and public access for bank fishing and wading. Bank fishing at the mouth of Dry Run Creek, which enters the tailwater in Quarry Park, is popular. Fishing in Dry Run Creek is all catch-and-release with tackle restrictions, and only open to kids 16 years of age and younger and the disabled. River Ridge Access features a handicapped-accessible fishing pier and walk-in access. Four species of trout—brook, rainbow, cutthroat, and brown—are caught in the river. A world-record German brown trout weighed in at nearly 39 pounds in 1988, claiming the top spot on the list of record-breaking trophies landed within the river’s 5 short miles. This catch still ranks number two worldwide. The current state record brook trout was a chunky 5-pounder from these tailwaters. The mainstay of the North Fork is rainbows from 11 to 14 inches long, just as it is on all the state’s other trout waters. Fishing resorts on the North Fork provide excellent lodging, equipment rentals, boat rentals, and professional guide services.

The Spring River flows in a southeastern direction through nearly 75 miles of northeastern Arkansas before it empties into the Black River near Black Rock. Its headwater is at Mammoth Spring, adjacent to the Arkansas-Missouri state line, which expels more than 9 million gallons of water each hour through a vent located 80 feet below the surface of Spring Lake. The depth of the vent not only camouflages the impact of the spring as it feeds the lake, the consistent discharge at the lake’s bottom keeps the river above a minimum depth year-round. The Spring River is joined several miles downstream by the South Fork, which flows eastward from its origin near Salem. As it is not fed by Mammoth Spring, the South Fork carries a less consistent volume of water and sometimes is not suitable for canoeing during late summer and early fall; however, its extensive gravel bars provide good sites for camping and picnicking. The upper portion of the Spring River is especially popular for swimming and canoe trips. Fishing also draws many visitors to the river. In addition to fish native to the area, the cool water temperature allows the stocking of trout throughout the year. Fly-fishing for rainbow, brown, and cutthroat trout has become a popular sport. Two fish hatcheries are located on the Spring River. The first, Mammoth Spring National Fish Hatchery, is operated by the US Fish and Wildlife Service and is adjacent to Mammoth Spring State Park. The second, the Jim Hinkle Spring River State Fish Hatchery, is operated by the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission and located 2 miles downstream from Mammoth Spring.

From Bull Shoals to Newport, the White River flows through some of the most scenic regions Arkansas has to offer. The White meanders through the hills of the western Ozarks for some 300 miles before reaching Bull Shoals Lake. Boat launch facilities are located at most access points, and fishing resorts are available from Bull Shoals to Mountain View. Flat-bottomed johnboats, fitted with comfy seats, are the preferred method of fishing and viewing the scenery along the river. Several record-breaking browns and rainbows have been hooked on the upper White. Below Batesville, the White runs warmer and bass become popular targets. At Newport, the river turns southward across the Delta before joining the Mississippi River in southeast Arkansas. For White River information, call the Corps of Engineers at 870-425-2700.

images Towns and Villages

Eureka Springs (1-866-WISHEUREKA; www.eurekasprings.org). America’s Victorian Village was named one of America’s Dozen Distinctive Destinations by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. It first drew visitors to its remote Ozarks location because of its natural springs and rumors of their healing powers. During the late 1800s and early 1900s, the city became a popular spa resort, and it remains popular for its services today. Its entire downtown district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and the list of accolades it has received for its unique sense of place could fill an Explorer’s Guide of its own. While baths and spa treatments are still huge draws, the city is now nationally renowned for its art and well-preserved Victorian-era architecture. Eureka Springs is packed with attractions such as lush gardens, showy tour caves, the nation’s premier big cat sanctuary, and The Great Passion Play, which depicts the last week of Christ’s life on earth. The play has been updated through the years but remains one of the nation’s most-attended outdoor dramas, and with one of the country’s largest critter casts. Unique boutiques offer antiques, fine art, contemporary and vintage clothing, bells, handmade crafts, and more. A portion of history is uniquely preserved through ghost tours at the 1886 Crescent Hotel and Spa, one of several historic hotels in town. The Art Colony offers demonstrations and art for sale.

THE BUFFALO—AMERICA’S FIRST FEDERALLY PROTECTED RIVER

Buffalo National River (870-439-2502 or 870-741-5443; www.nps.gov/buff). There are various access points. The Buffalo National River, which runs through Newton, Searcy, Marion, and Baxter Counties, became the first national river in the United States on March 1, 1972. It is one of the few remaining unpolluted, free-flowing rivers in the lower 48 states. The portion of the river administered by the National Park Service, encompasses 135 miles of the 153-mile long river. Over 100 miles of trails have been blazed to allow you to explore this river selected for federal protection. Designated horseback riding trails are located in each district of the river, and resorts and outfitters are located throughout the river region. Camping is available at most access points, and primitive camping is allowed along the water.

President Richard M. Nixon signed the legislation that put the river under the protection of the National Park Service 100 years after the establishment of Yellowstone National Park. The law begins, “That for the purposes of conserving and interpreting an area containing unique scenic and scientific features, and preserving as a free-flowing stream an important segment of the Buffalo River in Arkansas for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations, the Secretary of the Interior . . . may establish and administer the Buffalo National River.” Behind that sentence, which set the mission for the park, were decades of debate and discussion regarding the use, ownership, and management of the Buffalo River.

Originating in the Boston Mountains, the river flows generally from west to east, traversing Newton, Searcy, and Marion Counties before flowing into the White River just inside the border of Baxter County. Although termed a national river, the park includes lands surrounding the river, as well as the river itself, giving it a total of 94,293 acres.

Since prehistoric times, the river has attracted the area’s inhabitants. The first European and American settlements of the late 1820s located many of their cultural sites on land that is now included in the park. These sites range from terrace village sites, to bluff shelters once occupied by Archaic period Indians, to cabins built by early settlers.

The Buffalo River provided flood plain terraces for agricultural fields, transportation for such local industry as timbering or mining, food, and recreation. Although somewhat isolated by the terrain, the area’s population fluctuated with the economy and outside influences, yet never prospered. Nevertheless, the residents who remained after World War II maintained a strong bond to the land and what had been a way of life for 150 years.

The Buffalo River and its surrounding Ozarks scenery were long admired for their beauty and potential for development. Two state parks were created along the river: Buffalo River State Park in 1938, constructed as a project of the Civilian Conservation Corps under the direction of the National Park Service, and Lost Valley State Park in 1966. The river’s hydroelectric potential was also seen. With the passage of the Flood Control Act of 1938, the Army Corps of Engineers selected two potential dam sites—one on the lower portion of the river near its mouth and one at its middle, just upstream from the town of Gilbert.

The constant threat of a dam on the river caught the attention of Arkansas conservation groups and the general public, who had begun using the river for recreation or simply appreciated it as a spectacular natural resource for the state. In the early 1960s, advocates for the dams and advocates for a free-flowing stream organized for a showdown. The pro-dam Buffalo River Improvement Association, established by James Tudor of Marshall (Searcy County), and the anti-dam Ozark Society, which included environmentalist Neil Compton, emerged as the leading players in the drama.

The dam proponents aligned with the Corps of Engineers and Third District Congressman James Trimble. The free-flowing stream advocates made overtures to the Department of the Interior. In 1961, a National Park Service planning team undertook a site survey of the Buffalo River area and was favorably impressed, recommending the establishment of a park on the Buffalo River and that it be designated a national river, the country’s first.

A decade of political maneuverings, speeches, and media attention—including a canoe trip on the Buffalo by Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas—came to a head in December 1965, when Governor Orval Faubus wrote the Corps of Engineers to express his concerns and stating flatly that he could not support the idea of a dam on the Buffalo River. The corps responded by withdrawing its proposal for a dam. However, steps to establish a park along the river gained traction the following year, when John Paul Hammerschmidt assumed the Third Congressional District seat and indicated that he would support the project. Congressman Hammerschmidt and Senators J. William Fulbright and John L. McClellan partnered to introduce the first Buffalo National River park legislation in 1967. The final legislation was introduced in 1971, and in February 1972 Congress voted to establish America’s first national river.

Park acreage, boundaries, and special considerations were written into the legislation. Total acreage could not exceed 95,730 acres. Hunting and fishing were allowed as a traditional use. Many permanent residents were granted an option of use and occupancy that lasted up to 25 years. Landowners in the three private-use zones of Boxley Valley, Richland Valley, and the Boy Scout camp at Camp Orr could choose to sell easements to the government instead of selling the land outright.

The first park management staff—the park superintendent, a chief ranger, and a secretary—arrived in 1972 and took up temporary office quarters in Harrison. Eventually, the park was divided into three management districts with staff in each district.

Today, the Buffalo National River is one of the leading tourist destinations in Arkansas, with park visitation averaging more than 800,000 people a year. Park headquarters are located in Harrison. Travelers can access the 135 miles of river within the park at launch points all along the river, but the US Forest Service protects its headwaters. Along with water activities, the park offers more than 100 miles of hiking trails, designated trails for horseback riding, and also includes three congressionally designated wilderness areas. As predicted in the early planning studies, the park’s overall array of resources is its greatest significance. Four historic districts in the park are on the National Register, as well as individual sites depicting the cultural history of the river’s peoples. The park’s karst topography includes Fitton Cave, the longest cave known in Arkansas, and others that are home to endangered bat populations. Mammals range from familiar river animals, such as the beaver and raccoon, to land species such as deer, black bear, and a thriving elk herd reintroduced to the area in the early 1980s. Smallmouth bass and catfish tempt the fisherman, but more than 50 other fish species have been recorded in the river. Bird and plant populations are varied, extensive, and represent a healthy ecological system. At the center flows the undammed, free-flowing Buffalo River, fed by tributaries and springs and dramatic pour-offs down the limestone bluffs—truly, in the words of native son songwriter Jimmy Driftwood, “Arkansas’s gift to the nation, America’s gift to the world.”

Harrison is a treasure for those who want to appreciate the unrefined splendor of the Buffalo River by day and enjoy the comforts of civilization at night. The beautiful downtown square celebrates its historic charm with colorful hanging baskets of flowers and awnings accentuating the old brick storefronts that line its perimeter. The square and a few adjacent buildings make up its National Historic District. You can get a real feel for the town by taking the Main Street Harrison Historic Walking Tour, which includes downtown parks, the historic Lyric Theater, the 1909 Boone County Courthouse, the 1914 Boone County Jail, and the 1929 Hotel Seville. Downtown Harrison also has quality restaurants, an art gallery, well-stocked antiques stores, and other retail shops. Two museums, the Boone County Heritage Museum and the Marine Corps Legacy Museum, are interesting and informative stops. Surrounding the downtown area is an urban sprawl of contemporary dining and shopping districts.

The tiny town of Hardy, perched on the bank of the Spring River, hosts a fascinating range of shops along the narrow main street of Old Hardy Town, from antiques to dulcimers to quilts. The annual arts and crafts show in April is well worth the trip.

Jasper’s downtown square is unique because of the native rock, harvested from the mountains that surround the Buffalo River, which decorates the exterior of the businesses downtown. The Ozark Cafe on the square, if you catch them on the right day, will grill you the best burger you ever tasted. On weekends, the Ozark is the town gathering spot for live music and hospitality. Legend says that Native Americans who were given food and a place to rest while traveling west on the torturous Trail of Tears gave the town its name. Surprised by the village’s warm hospitality, they named it Jasper after the stone prized for purity and strength. John M. Ross, a Choctaw Indian from Pennsylvania who is considered the founder of the town, compared the mellow color of the local stone to jasper, one of the 12 precious stones mentioned in the Book of Revelation.

Mountain Home is the largest city on the Salem Plateau, no small thanks to its placement between two of the Ozarks’ most important man-made natural resources, Bull Shoals and Norfork Lakes. The lakes and the White River continue to grow in importance to Mountain Home, bringing thousands of people to ground zero of the trout-fishing universe. Two of the state’s finest horse ranches, Horseshoe Canyon and Stone Creek Ranch, are within 20 minutes of Mountain Home, adding to the exceptional outdoor opportunities in this area.

Mountain View is located deep in the Boston Mountains and is the home of the Ozark Folk Center (see sidebar in chapter 1). Music, crafts, and a full array of outdoor adventures await visitors to this charming community.

Pocahontas is the county seat of Randolph County, situated on the eastern edge of the Ozarks on the banks of the Black River. Its historic downtown square boasts a stately 1872 courthouse and beautifully restored buildings from Arkansas’s territorial days.

images To See

ART GALLERIES Eureka Fine Art Company (1-866-715-7800; www.eurekafineart.com), 78 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Open daily 9–6; later hours for special events or by appointment. This is the largest gallery in the region, at over 10,000 square feet. The full-service gallery includes works from local Eureka Springs artists as well as nationally and regionally known artists. Custom framing and design services available.

Keels Creek Art Gallery and Winery (479-253-9463; www.keelscreek.com), 3185 East Van Buren, Eureka Springs. Open Sunday through Tuesday noon–5, Wednesday through Saturday 10–6. An open and airy Spanish-style building with 12-foot ceilings houses this award-winning winery. The spaciousness allows an open feel for the art. Guests can relax in the wingback chairs by the two massive stone fireplaces or sit in the enclosed patio, where the motif is accented by furniture made from old wine barrels. The gallery represents 17 artists, some local and some regional. The winery has a tasting room that is open to the public and a retail area stocked with over 80 Arkansas wines, the largest inventory of native wines in the state.

Quicksilver Gallery (479-253-7679; www.quicksilvergallery.com), 73 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Open Monday through Saturday 10–5. A hands-on exhibit of beautiful musical instruments on the lower level includes instruments you have seen before and some you haven’t—strumsticks, gongs and chimes, brass Tibetan singing bowls, and the melodious-sounding Freenotes, an offshoot of xylophones—and they are available for you to play. Explore unique art, including one-of-a-kind wall tapestries, wildlife watercolors, photographs, artist-made jewelry, limited edition prints, pottery (rustic, hand-thrown pieces fired in a wood-burning kiln, gold- or platinum-drenched porcelain, and raku fired with ostrich feathers) in a variety of shapes and glazes, and numerous works in wood and metal.

Susan Morrison Signature Gallery (1-800-522-9634; www.susanmorrison.com), 60 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Open Monday through Saturday 10–6, Sunday 10–5. This gallery is the only place you can buy new original drawings by nationally acclaimed landscape and wildlife artist Susan Morrison. Susan considers her art to be part of her mission to protect wildlife, and she captures the true essence of each animal she portrays. “I work in pen and ink and Prisma colored pencil in life size. The detail becomes more textural, the color more powerful, and the end effect, at times, monumental,” she says. She is also a poet, author, and environmentalist. She will frequently be found visiting guests at the gallery between 10 and 6 on Saturdays. Archival-quality, framed, original life-sized drawings, hand-enhanced giclée prints, lithograph prints, poetry, and Susan’s books are available for purchase.

Zarks Gallery (1-877-540-9805; www.zarksgallery.com), 67 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Open daily 9:30–5:30, usually later on Friday and Saturday. Zarks represents over 125 local, regional, and national artists. The main focus is on American hand-blown art glass, fine silver and gold jewelry, along with sculpture and two-dimensional works. In addition, the gallery is the showcase for the work of “The Studio,” a collaboration of artists established in 1970, and one of the oldest studios in Eureka. Zarks has been written up in articles in numerous national publications, including Craft Report, American Style, Southern Living, House & Garden, Midwest Motorist, New York Times, and others.

MUSEUMS 1901 Gavioli Chapel (1-877-933-0003), 80 Mountain Street, Eureka Springs. Call for hours. In June of 2006, noted preservationists Marty and Elise Roenigk purchased this historic chapel and began using it not only as a wedding chapel but also as a museum for special pieces of their world-renowned mechanical music collection. One such piece is their Gavioli Fairground Organ, which has 59 keys, 210 pipes, and is 15 feet wide and 11 feet tall. This ornate mechanical orchestra, which plays everything from festive turn-of-the-century dance tunes to sweet, melodic traditional wedding songs, is the interior focal point of the chapel. The organ is so spectacular that the Roenigks renamed the historic structure Gavioli Chapel. Free admission.

Aviation Cadet Museum (479-253-5008; www.aviationcadet.com), 542 CR 2073, Eureka Springs. Open Wednesday through Saturday 10–5. This museum is dedicated to the men who built the air arm of this nation’s defense forces: bombardiers, navigators, observers, and pilots from the Army Air Corps, US Air Force, Navy, Marine Corps, and Coast Guard, as well as all those on the ground who were an integral part of the total force. It is the location of the only public-use airport in Eureka Springs, Silver Wings Field, which carries an identifier of 5A5. Static displays contain an F-105-G and F-100-F. Free admission, excluding special events.

The Bible Museum (1-800-882-7529; www.greatpassionplay.com), 935 Passion Play Road, US 62 East, Eureka Springs. Open May through October, noon until The Great Passion Play begins. Come here to see over 10,000 Bibles in 625 languages and dialects. The museum has a large collection of parchments and artifacts, including an original page of the Gutenberg Bible, plus old and rare Bibles. Admission is $12 for adults; $7 for kids 5–12; and free for kids under 5.

Boone County Heritage Museum (870-741-3312; www.bchrs.org), 124 South Cherry Street, Harrison. Open Monday through Friday 10–4, March through November; Thursday only 10–4, December through February. The Boone County Heritage Museum is located in Harrison and sponsored by the Boone County Historical & Railroad Society, a nonprofit organization devoted to the preservation of the county’s historical heritage. Hundreds of collections and exhibits on three floors include a railroad showroom, genealogy records and library, Civil War exhibit, Mountain Meadows Massacre collection, Veterans of Foreign Wars (VFW) collection, medical room exhibit, an old post office, and much more. See the website for details. Admission is $2 for adults, free for kids under 12 if accompanied by an adult.

Eureka Springs Historical Museum (479-253-9417; www.eurekasprings.org), 95 South Main Street, AR 23, Eureka Springs. Generally open Monday through Saturday 9–4, Sunday 11–4. During winter, December through February, the museum closes on Monday. Before strolling down the quaint Victorian streets of Eureka Springs, step back into time and walk through the town’s very colorful history. The museum, built originally as a private residence in 1889, serves as a downtown visitor center and is both educational and entertaining. The museum houses a fascinating collection of personal items, local artwork, home furnishings, photographs, letters, other ephemera from Eureka’s early settlers, and a genealogy department. Displays change seasonally, so come often for a fresh new look into Eureka Springs’ past. Self-guided tours are $5 for adults and $2.50 for children. With a reservation, you can add a costumed guide for $8 per person with an eight-person group. Local historian Sondra Torchia books tours of the city through the museum; reserve your tour for $17.50 per person.

Frog Fantasies Museum & Gift Shop (479-253-7227; www.mizfrogspad.com/frog_fantasies.htm), 151 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Open Monday through Saturday 10–5. Miz Frog loves all things froggy, and this museum proves it. She has gathered frogs in every shape, size, and color in over 60 years of collecting. A gift shop featuring only frog items is available if you want to add to your collection, too. There are over 7,000 pieces displayed in this museum. Frog Fantasies was named a Rand McNally Best of the Road pick for 2007.

Marine Corps Legacy Museum (870-743-1682; www.mclm.com), 127 Rush Street, Harrison. Varied hours; call before visiting. Founded and maintained by two retired Marines—father and son—the Marine Corps Legacy Museum is an impressive volunteer effort. It displays the history of the Marine Corps from 1775 to present day in a chronological sequence. It is the only comprehensive Marine Corps museum in the central United States and the only private comprehensive Marine Corps museum in the country. In May 2007, it was featured in Leatherneck magazine. With 46 operational theme displays, the Marines are represented in almost every period of history. You will appreciate hearing the history of this branch of the armed forces from these committed alumni.

Maynard Pioneer Museum & Park (870-647-2701), AR 328 West, Maynard. The museum is open May through September, Tuesday through Saturday 10–4 and Sunday 1–4. The park is built around a nineteenth-century log cabin relocated from nearby and restored to represent an 1800s rural family home, complete with period furnishings, textiles, and household implements that would have been found in a typical Ozark foothills farmstead or home. The cabin was about to be demolished in 1979 when several Maynard citizens elected to move it. They disassembled it, labeling each piece, and reassembled it at its current location. In 1982, an annex was added to house other artifacts. A second cabin was moved to the park in 1999, illustrating pioneer-days worship and education as a combination church and one-room schoolhouse. The museum also has many pictures, newspaper clippings, and historical documents, making it ideal for genealogy studies for people from that area. Also on the grounds is a park with three pavilions, BBQ pits, playground equipment, and four RV hook-ups. Every September, Maynard’s population of 381 increases by 4,000 to 8,000 due to its annual Pioneer Days Craft Fair and Festival. Free admission.

Randolph County Heritage Museum (870-892-4056; www.randolphcomuseum.org), 106 East Everett Street, Pocahontas. Open Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 10–4, Tuesday and Thursday 9–4:30, Saturday 10–1. Located on the historic Pocahontas Court Square. Using permanent and transitory exhibits, lecture presentations, interactive exhibits, and other informational programs, the museum is a living forum linking the present day to Randolph County’s rich and varied past. Remember the rocking horse you had as a kid? The original Wonder Horse, invented by William Baltz of Pocahontas, is displayed here. Baltz built the first Wonder Horse—named for Arkansas’s former nickname of the Wonder State—for his own children by removing the rockers from a rocking horse and suspending the horse from springs held by a wooden framework. Free admission.

CULTURAL SITES Blue Spring Heritage Center & Gardens (479-253-9244; www.bluespringheritage.com), US 62 West, Eureka Springs. Open daily 9–6, March 15 through Thanksgiving. Historic Blue Spring, which was a stop on the Trail of Tears, pours 38 million gallons of water each day into its trout-stocked, vivid blue lagoon. There is evidence of an old mill powered by the spring and other remnants of a community centered on the water. With exquisite arrays of plants and flowers, this site has served as a tourist attraction since 1948. In 1993, some 33 acres were transformed into the Eureka Springs Gardens. A decade later, the rich history of the land was blended with the beauty of the gardens and renamed the Blue Spring Heritage Center & Gardens. Artifacts, old photos, a historic film spanning the significance of the Blue Spring site, and walkways through the natural world all await visitors. View the historic film, stroll the garden paths, and visit the prehistoric bluff shelter, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The gardens demonstrate crops, plants, flowers, and healing herbs you will find in the Ozarks. Only seeing-eye dogs are permitted, so ensure your pets are comfortable in your vehicle if you bring them along. Admission is $7.25 adults, $4 students 10–17, free for kids 9 and under.

Celestial Windz Harmonic Bizaar (479-253-5288) 381 AR 23 South, Eureka Springs. Open Monday through Saturday 10–5. Eureka Springs loves art and music and artists and musicians, so it stands to reason that sometimes they all come together. Wind chime artist Ranaga Farbiarz erected the world’s largest tuned musical wind chime in the parking area of his gallery, Celestial Windz Harmonic Bizaar, just south of Eureka Springs. He employed some unusual tools to pull it off—a bucket truck and a 100-foot-tall oak tree. The top of the Celestial Windz world record chime is the roof of the tower built in the center of the Harmonic Bizaar gallery. Its dimensions are 8 feet tall by 6 feet across. For the purposes of documentation, the chime was erected in the large oak tree, utilizing a full-scale replica of the tower roof. The interior tower is now the permanent home of the world’s largest wind chime. As the centerpiece of the Harmonic Bizaar, it is available for free public viewing and listening during regular gallery hours.

One of my favorite stories about Eureka Springs is told by Richard Davies, director of the state’s parks and tourism agency. He says that there are two inane questions people ask all the time, one being “Is the Christ of the Ozarks statue natural or manmade?” (The second question, for those who want to know, is “Do you plant the diamonds at the Crater of Diamonds State Park?”) The white mortar figure of Jesus Christ is seven stories tall and weighs almost 2 million pounds. The statue is one of five giant statues of Christ in the world and one of only two in North America. It was sculpted by Emmet A. Sullivan and funded by the Elna M. Smith Foundation of Eureka Springs. Standing on a foundation of 320 tons of concrete with reinforcing steel, the statue was built to withstand winds of 500 miles an hour and has a 2-foot rectangle in the top of the head for pressure equalization in case of a passing tornado. The face itself is 15 feet long. The arms, with a spread of 65 feet between fingertips, suggest the crucifixion. The representation of Christ was built completely by hand, constructed of 24 layers of white mortar on a steel frame. The robes and hair were sculpted by workmen on scaffolds who built an elevator so that they could reach the higher segments of the statue. The statue was dedicated on June 25, 1966, although the folds of the robe took an additional three weeks to complete. Visible from a distance of 20 miles, the silhouette of Christ of the Ozarks appears to be a large white cross. It is visible from most anywhere in the area, particularly in winter, and from the rooftop deck of Dr. Baker’s Lounge at the Crescent Hotel.

Eddie Mae Herron Center (870-892-4433; www.herroncenter.org), 1708 Archer Street, Pocahontas. Open Monday through Saturday 10–3, but it never hurts to call first to make sure someone’s there. This center is more than a museum; it is also an education center, a community center, and a heritage and culture center. It preserves nearly 200 years of African American history in Randolph County, Arkansas. Through photographs, displays, books, and the spoken memories of the people who grew up around the old building and now care for it, the center works to tell the story of the African American past in the county, preserving that heritage for future generations of the local community and any visitors lucky enough to pass this way. It is housed in the former St. Mary’s Church/Pocahontas Colored School, an unadorned, one-room frame building constructed in 1919, and was named for Miss Eddie Mae, who taught at the black school from 1948 to 1965. The center’s Black History Month activities are widely recognized as the most comprehensive in the state.

St. Elizabeth’s Catholic Church (479-253-2222), 30 Crescent Drive, Eureka Springs. Open 24/7 year-round. Listed in Ripley’s Believe It or Not, this church is the only one in the world that is entered through the bell tower. It began as a chapel that Richard Kerens built in memory of his mother. According to a 1907 article in the Arkansas Traveler, the chapel was completed in 1906. Kerens was one of the builders of the Crescent Hotel and also donated the land for the Carnegie Library. Eventually, he built St. Elizabeth’s Catholic Church, which was dedicated in 1909. The church is connected to the chapel and replaced the Catholic Church that was on Fairmont Street. Free.

Thorncrown Chapel (479-253-7401; www.thorncrown.com), 12968 US 62 West, Eureka Springs. Open April through November, daily 9–5, occasionally closing at 3:30 p.m. for special events; March and December, 11–4. Closed January and February. This majestic glass and wood-beam chapel nestled in the Ozark Mountains was designed by Arkansas native E. Fay Jones, a nationally honored and recognized architect. The chapel was chosen in 2001 as one of the top 10 buildings of the twentieth century by the American Institute of Architects. It also won the institute’s Design of the Year for 1981 and Design of the Decade for the 1980s. This stunning chapel is the perfect place to give thanks for Nature’s abundance as she joins you for a seat at the altar. You are welcome to come out for services, held on Sundays at 9 a.m. and 11 a.m., April through October. During November through the third week in December, there is one service at 11 a.m. Services last approximately one hour and include inspirational music and biblically based preaching.

HISTORIC SITES Rush Historic District (870-741-5443; www.nps.gov/buff), AR 14 South, Yellville. Open daily 8:30–4:30. Watch the video about this 1,300-acre zinc-mining town dating from the mid-1880s to the mid-1930s. The site has hiking trails with interpretive exhibits. Often referred to as a ghost town, the site along the Buffalo River is now protected by the federal government.

images To Do

FISHING Bear Creek Springs Trout Farm (870-741-6031), 350 DeVito’s Loop, Harrison. Call for an appointment. The Ozarks is trout country, and if you have kids or you are looking for a sure thing, try Bear Creek Springs Trout Farm. Kids love watching the water boil as these beautiful rainbow trout work into a frenzy while trying to hop on your hook! No license is required and there is no limit. Bait and tackle are furnished, and your catch can be cleaned and packed on ice. You only pay for what you catch.

GOLF Big Creek Golf Club (870-425-0333; www.bigcreekgolf.com), 452 Country Club Drive, Mountain Home. Call for current course hours. In 2008, this 200-acre course received a five-star rating by Golf Digest for the third consecutive year and was rated first by the publication in several categories. It has been rated the number one public-access course by a leading Arkansas business publication for four years straight. The diversity of the hole layouts makes this 7,320-yard, 18-hole course challenging and enjoyable. The 15,000-square-foot clubhouse includes a fine dining room, a casual grill and bar, a fully stocked pro shop, and men’s and women’s locker rooms. The club also has two tennis courts and a large resort-style pool. Twilight rates are $55 after 1 p.m. and $45 after 3 p.m. Greens fees are seasonal; summer rates for play are $69 weekdays, $79 weekends and holidays. Appearance counts—no denim, guys must have collars and sleeves, ladies must wear appropriate casual tops, and golf shoes must have nonmetal spikes. The club sells libations, so please leave yours at home.

Mark Martin Museum (1-800-566-5561; www.markmartinmuseum.com), 1601 Batesville Boulevard, Batesville. No, your GPS isn’t off, it is located within a Ford dealership; what seems at first an unlikely locale makes terrific sense once you are drawn into its exhibits. This state-of-the-art facility features six exhibits built around, and featuring, pivotal vehicles driven by Martin during his stellar career. The multimedia displays mix interviews and race footage with film spoofs and a mock music video, creating an experience that is both informative and entertaining whether you are a Mark Martin fan, NASCAR aficionado, or just traveling with one. Centered among murals are the vehicles: the No. 6 Viagra Coca-Cola 600 win car, the ’90 Folgers Thunderbird, the No. 60 Winn-Dixie Busch car, the 2005 IROC car that Martin used to win his record fifth championship, and the ’89 Stroh’s Thunderbird. Several helmets and historic fire suits, trophies, and other memorabilia are also on display. A retail area stocks souvenirs featuring Martin and the NASCAR logo. Take advantage of an opportunity to explore Batesville, the second-oldest town in the state, rich in history and often listed among the best small towns in the country by national travel and retirement guides. Its place on the shores of the White River fueled the town’s economy, from the steamboats that motored goods on its surface to the world-class fish hiding in its clear depths. Explore its history by visiting one of its museums, touring its historic downtown, or driving residential areas populated with examples of architecture from every decade since the 1840s. Call for admission times and prices.

SAILING Castaway Sailing on Beaver Lake (479-684-9339; www.castawaysailing.com), US 62, Eureka Springs. There is just no topping the experience of gliding across the sparkling waters of Beaver Lake sailing aboard the 34-foot Defiance. All charters are private and include a licensed professional captain. Schedule a leisure trip for your group or learn to sail. Appointments are available March through November. Eagle-watching tours and corporate team-building charters are available year-round. Reserve by the hour, half day, or full day. Private hourly charters are offered at scheduled times and cost $25 per person per hour, with a $125 minimum. Half-day charters are also scheduled by appointment and are $20 per person per hour, with a $150 minimum. Call for a special rate for a full-day (10–5) charter.

SPAS Gryphon’s Roost Day Spa & Gallery (1-877-807-5667; www.gryphonsroost.com), 137 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Gryphon’s Roost is about inner and outer relaxation. Beautiful art and a peaceful environment almost seem to fill a void left in the mind once the massage soothes the body. The private, secluded outdoor hot tub with beautiful views is offered with and without massage ($55 for half-hour soak and half-hour massage). Or you can substitute the soak in the tub with time in the cedar and stained-glass sauna. Couples’ facilities are also available. Aromatherapy massage, herbal body wrap, facials, skin care treatments for men and women, and reflexology are part of a head-to-toe menu of pampering from which to choose. Gryphon’s Roost also offers an extensive selection of salon products for purchase in their gift shop, including essential oils (used in aromatherapy massage); stone elixirs; essence lotions; music for relaxation, meditation, and inspiration; as well as books on health, healing, and spirituality.

New Moon Day Spa and Salon (800-599-9772), 75 Prospect Avenue, Eureka Springs. Open Sunday through Thursday 9–6, Friday and Saturday 9–7. New Moon is located in the garden level of the historic Crescent Hotel. Elegance and history add to the tranquil environment of this full service, modern salon that offers a full range of spa and beauty treatments. Facials, massages, body treatments, peels, microdermabrasion, teeth whitening, and mud wraps are just a few of the services offered here. Spa guests are welcome to make a day of it by taking advantage of the sauna, hot tub, gardens, pool, and relaxation area on-site. Check the website for spa specials with, and without, lodging at the hotel included.

Serendipity Day Spa & Salon (870-204-6650), 205 West Ridge, Harrison. Open Monday through Friday 9–5, with evening appointments available. Serendipity Day Spa is a full-service salon and spa just one block from the Hotel Seville. Located in a Victorian-era home, the layout, design, and craftsmanship on the interior provide the perfect complement to spa services. Serendipity Day Spa & Salon offers manicures and pedicures, hot stone massage, Swedish and deep tissue massage, facials, waxing, and makeup. Call for pricing and special promotions.

Spa at Grand Central (479-283-4376; eurekagrand.com/spa), 37 North Main Street, Eureka Springs. Services and techniques include full-body massage, paraffin dips, muscle tension release, facials, essential oil delight, herbal wraps, reflexology, and Body Glo. A full-service hair salon specializes in custom cuts and color, and will gladly see you without an appointment. Their line of salon products, made locally, is available for purchase in their gift shop. Grand Central also packages lodging at the Grand Central Hotel with spa services that will let you save a little money on both. They offer a two-night stay in a Royal Suite that includes two 1-hour massages and two half-hour moisturizing facials for $525, including taxes but not gratuity.

Suchness Spa Rituals (479-253-2828; www.suchnessspa.com), 63 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Located in the historic New Orleans Hotel in downtown Eureka Springs, Suchness has a definite New Age emphasis in the services they deliver. Their menu includes the signature Suchness Massage, Crown Chakra Lightwork, Thai Herbal Steam and Lotus Shower, Glow Rituals, Body Cocoon Rituals, Facial Ritual, and Hands and Feet Ritual. They can even provide a minister for wedding services if needed.

TOURS Belle of the Ozarks (1-800-552-3803; www.estc.net/belle), 354 CR 146 (Starkey Park at end of Mundell Road), Eureka Springs. Open seasonally May through October, sailing daily (closed Wednesday) at 11 a.m., 1 p.m., and 3 p.m. The Belle also schedules an additional evening cruise at 6 p.m., Memorial Day through Labor Day. The 75-minute cruise on this excursion boat will take you on a 12-mile cruise around scenic Beaver Lake while the ship’s captain fills you in on the sights you see and the area history. The tour includes several local landmarks: Beaver Dam, Indian burial grounds, the Lost Bridge area, White House Bluff, a submerged homestead, and a 200-acre game preserve. Eagle watch cruises are added during the month of October. Admission is $17 for adults and $7.50 for kids 12 and under.

Eureka Springs Ghost Tours (479-253-6800), 44 Prospect, Eureka Springs. Office opens at 7:15 p.m., tour begins at 8 p.m. Tickets are available 30 minutes prior to tour time. It is widely reported that Eureka Springs has a fairly strong contingent of out-of-body residents who like to make their presence known. In fact, the television show Ghost Hunters kicked off their fall season a few years ago with their investigation of the Crescent Hotel. It included their first-ever footage that seemed to show one of these ethereal residents in the former morgue of the hotel. Tours are conducted by two mediums who have also conducted paranormal investigations of the hotel. Tickets for the Crescent Hotel tour are $18 for adults and $7 for children 5 and under. A second tour of the City Cemetery is also offered. Tickets are $15 for adults and $7 for kids under 5 (kids under the age of 16 must be accompanied by an adult).

Eureka Springs & North Arkansas Railway (479-253-9623; www.esnarailway.com), 299 Main, AR 23 North, Eureka Springs. The train runs Tuesday through Saturday, April through October; departures are at 10:30 a.m., noon, 2 p.m., and 4 p.m. (provided a minimum number of passengers is onboard). Trains also run on Sundays on Memorial Day and Labor Day weekends. From the first rumble of the engine and clanging of the bell to call boarders, it’s an exciting adventure and the ultimate nostalgia trip right down to the last blowing of the horn. On the Excursion Train, you can chat with the conductor and crew while switching operations are explained. The collection of vintage rolling stock at ES&NA is one of the Ozarks’ largest, and the authentic railroad memorabilia here re-creates the turn-of-the-century era and gives you a taste of how it was when rail service brought the first visitors to Eureka Springs in 1883. A ride on the rails is both fun and educational for the whole family. Passage for adults is $12; kids ages 4–10 are $6; kids under age 4 (with accompanying adult) are free.

Ghost Tour—Downtown Eureka Springs—Basin Park Hotel (1-800-643-4972; www.basinpark.com), 12 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Tours are offered Tuesday through Saturday at 8 p.m. The paranormal tour of the Basin Park Hotel and downtown Eureka Springs provides a unique history lesson into what was once a bustling Wild West town. The Haunting Tales of Downtown Eureka Springs and Ghosts of The Basin Park Hotel tour is a chance to learn more about the many tales and fascinating stories of the history of downtown Eureka Springs as well as possibly witness and/or capture our next ghost story on film. Tickets are available at the front desk of the 1905 Basin Park Hotel located in the hub of downtown Eureka Springs at 12 Spring Street. There are no reservations, so come early because space is limited. Still and video cameras are encouraged. The tour is $15 per adult and $7 for children under the age of 9. The tour begins inside the 1905 Basin Park Hotel and continues to Basin Spring Park and along historic Spring Street.

Southern Pride Carriage Tours (870-749-2665), Crescent Hotel, 75 Prospect Avenue, Eureka Springs. Days and hours vary with season. Spring and fall, tours are scheduled Thursday through Monday at 5 p.m.; summer tours start at 6 p.m. All tours are subject to cancellation due to bad weather. Enjoy old-fashioned carriage tours of historic Eureka Springs in a charming white carriage pulled by draft horses. Based at the Crescent Hotel, tours last approximately 30 minutes.

images Green Space

Pivot Rock and Natural Bridge (479-253-8860; www.eurekasprings.org), 1708 Pivot Rock Road, Eureka Springs. One of the more interesting geological features in Eureka Springs has been around for so long that it has attained historic status—as an attraction! Pivot Rock is one of several unique natural formations at Pivot Rock Park, located on Pivot Rock Road off Highway 62 West in Eureka Springs. First developed as a tourist attraction more than 100 years ago, the park features paved pathways winding through unique rock formations and the beautiful natural mountain scenery of the Ozarks. According to legend, however, the deep ravines and caves of the park attracted a different kind of visitor during the years after the Civil War. Tradition holds that this was one of the many hideouts of the outlaw Jesse James and the James–Younger Gang, the notorious band of Old West train and bank robbers. One bit of advice: the walk out the paved trail to Pivot Rock is a bit strenuous, so take your health into consideration before you make the attempt. Also, for some reason some visitors find the park a little hard to find, so—as the signs say—just make sure you follow Pivot Rock Road ALL the way to the end.

Quigley’s Castle (479-253-8311; www.quigleyscastle.com), AR 23 South, Eureka Springs. Open April through October, 8:30–5; closed Sunday and Thursday. This fascinating family home, built in 1943, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Quigley’s Castle is the dream home of Elise Quigley (1910–84), featuring her perennial garden of over 400 varieties of flowers. The garden paths wind around secluded benches, a lily pond, and birdbaths, up to her home that she beautifully covered with stones she’d collected since childhood. Tropical plants grow in the natural soil of the first floor and brush the ceiling of the second. A butterfly, fossil, crystal, arrowhead, and glassware collection encompasses an entire wall in a second-floor bedroom. Elise’s grandchildren conduct tours of the home and will gladly share the story of how this unusual place came to be. Admission is $6.50 per adult. Children 14 and under with a parent are free.

images Wild Places

Fred Berry Conservation Education Center on Crooked Creek (870-449-3484; www.fredberrycec.com), 851 Conservation Lane, Yellville. One of four Arkansas Game and Fish Education Centers, open Monday through Friday 8:30–4:30. The 421 Ozark acres that constitute FBCEC lie in a 2.75-mile crook of Crooked Creek just above Kelley’s access. The property, a former dairy farm, is now the site of a joint conservation education project between the Arkansas Game and Fish Foundation and the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission. The Creek Bottom Trail, a 2.5-mile loop on the floodplain, provides easy access to the creek for fishing or wildlife watching. The Woodland Edge Trail is the newest addition. The 1-mile loop is wheelchair accessible for 0.6 mile. Call for additional trail information. Birding and butterfly checklists are available at the on-site education building. Free.

LUNKER LABS—ARKANSAS’S NATIONAL FISH HATCHERIES

Thirty-five states in the country hold 70 national fish hatcheries; Arkansas is home to 3 of them: Mammoth Spring, Norfork, and Greers Ferry. Arkansas’s role in the conservation, protection, and enhancement of the fish population nationwide is key. Arkansas is the systems leader in trout production and has the only Gulf Coast striped bass facility in the world.

Mammoth Spring National Fish Hatchery (MSNFH), located in Mammoth Spring, was the first national hatchery established in Arkansas, dating back to 1903, making it one of the oldest in the country. Mammoth Spring is the seventh-largest spring in the United States and the largest in Arkansas. The hatchery is involved in the restoration of paddlefish, sturgeon, walleye, smallmouth and largemouth bass, bluegill, and Gulf Coast striped bass—the only captive spawning population in the world. Annually, the MSNFH is responsible for stocking an average of 40,000 paddlefish, 2,500 sturgeon, 400,000 walleye, 100,000 smallmouth bass, 100,000 largemouth bass or bluegills, 5,000 freshwater mussels, and 2 million striped bass.

Norfork National Fish Hatchery (NNFH) is a cold-water facility located near Mountain Home on the Norfork River. Norfork Dam (completed in 1944) and Bull Shoals Dam (completed in 1951) increased the need for this hatchery, which was established in 1955 and opened on August 15, 1957. NNFH is the highest-producing federal hatchery and the largest trout hatchery in the country. Annually, it released more than 2 million rainbow, cutthroat, and brown trout.

Greers Ferry National Fish Hatchery, another cold-water facility, is located in Heber Springs and was established in 1965 to mitigate the Greers Ferry Dam’s impact on the Little Red River. Cold hatchery water comes from 100 feet below the reservoir surface and has an average temperature of 44 to 56 degrees. Flowing through the hatchery at 15,000 gallons per minute, the water is ideal for raising rainbow and brook trout. Annually, 1 million trout are released for stocking, with an average of 182,000 released back into the Little Red River.

Ponca Elk Education Center (870-861-2432; www.poncaeec.com), AR 43, 0.25 mile from intersection with AR 74. Open Thursday through Monday 10:30–4:30. Elk are one of the largest members of the deer family in North America, and many of us associate this animal with western states. However, the eastern elk was a native of the Natural State. Unfortunately, this subspecies disappeared from our state after 1840, and for almost a hundred years, a bugling elk could not be heard throughout the hills of Arkansas. Between 1981 and 1985, elk were reintroduced to the Buffalo River area and have become one of Arkansas’s most successful reestablishment programs. The center houses an exhibit area focusing on elk ecology, wildlife, and area information. The building also contains classrooms for school and civic group use. It is an excellent Watchable Wildlife area with large shaded decks with bird feeders and an Ozark stream behind the center. Free admission.

CAVES Blanchard Springs Caverns (1-888-757-2246; www.fs.usda.gov/osfnf), Blanchard Springs Caverns is located 15 miles northwest of Mountain View off AR 14. Open daily 9:30–6. It should come as no surprise that in a land reported to hold over 4,500 caves, a king of caves would be found, and Blanchard Springs Caverns is definitely it. Dubbed by Life magazine as “one of the most extraordinary finds of the century,” this living cave is constantly in the process of formation. Two paved, lighted trails, one of which is handicapped accessible with assistance, are open to visitors of all ages. Led by knowledgeable Forest Service guides, the tour winds through water-carved passages that include an underground river and the world’s largest flowstone. The Wild Cave Tour is available by special arrangement for more adventuresome explorers. The spring itself pours out of the mountain into Mirror Lake, a great place to fish for rainbow trout. Nearby is a short, scenic walk to the falls where all water exits the caverns. This is one of the prettiest spots in the Ozark National Forest and not to be missed.

THE ARKANSAS SAFARI—TURPENTINE CREEK WILDLIFE REFUGE

Turpentine Creek Wildlife Refuge (479-253-5841; www.turpentinecreek.org), 239 Turpentine Creek Lane, Eureka Springs. Open every day except Christmas 9–6; winter hours are 9–5. Turpentine Creek is my favorite place in all of Arkansas. This 450-acre rescue facility houses over 120 big cats, plus a host of other animals, providing a lifetime home and refuge. The management and staff who rescue, rehabilitate, and then care for these animals are basically volunteers who live on the property. You will never see healthier or happier animals as you will see here. There is a sound called chuffing that tigers make when they are happy that is similar in nature, if not the same sound, as a cat purring. Only the newbies aren’t chuffing here, and when they do, it is considered an important benchmark in their recovery. Education of humans is an important element in the refuge’s mission, as humans create the necessity of a lifetime sanctuary to protect these animals. Tigers are social creatures, and once they bond with humans they will long for human contact for the rest of their lives, so release back into the wild is not really in their best interests. One of the refuge’s founders, Tanya Smith, tells a story of one of the first cats rescued by her father and their attachment to each other. Her dad’s health didn’t let him visit the refuge for over a year, but once the tiger heard his voice, he bawled for his attention.

Turpentine works constantly to raise money for more habitats to house new neighbors, but an ever-growing list of animals in desperate situations means their work is never done. A compound near the visitor center houses bears, lions, and the younger cats. A small petting zoo here has a pot-bellied pig, goats, and sheep. The natural habitats are beyond the compound, spread over a lush hillside where many of the animals walk on natural turf for the first time in their lives. Each animal’s biography is posted outside their enclosures, including details of their rescue in many cases. Check out Turpentine’s website for endearing videos of the release of various cats into their new habitats. You can also keep up with the refuge’s twins, Mack and B. B. King, born here in summer of 2008 when the refuge rescued their mother. I was lucky to be in the first public group to meet the little guys; their eyes were not even open at the time. They are much bigger now, but I still recognize them from that first day. Visit this refuge, and I will bet you dollars to doughnuts you will also be enchanted with them and their work. They can use your help; annual operating expenses exceed $1 million, making fund-raising a critical issue for their ability to survive. You can adopt a cat and keep up with them year-round and help support their care. A gift shop sells the refuge’s annual calendar and various cat-related gear. You’ll be chuffing yourself by the time you leave. Admission for adults is $15; kids, seniors, and military get in for $10.

Three tours are offered. The Dripstone Trail takes you through the Cathedral Room, which is the size of three football fields, and the Coral Room, where pure calcite, or calcium carbonate, makes up limestone. The Discovery Trail navigates the routes of the early explorers, passing through their campsites. Before you leave, discover the colorful Ghost Room and the giant flowstone, one of the largest on earth. The Wild Cave Tour is for the true adventurer. Explore undeveloped sections of the cavern’s middle level. Climb steep slopes, crawl on your hands and knees, pass under low ceilings, and travel through red clay. End your tour at the Titans, a group of spectacular columns that you’ll have to see to believe. The caverns are also the site of one of the most moving Christmas pageants in Arkansas, Caroling in the Caverns. Blanchard’s Cathedral Room is the site for traditional folk Christmas music, its natural acoustics providing the perfect accompaniment for a hauntingly beautiful performance. Rates for the Dripstone and Discovery tours are $10.50 per adult and $5.50 for kids 6–15. The Wild Cave Tour is $75.50 per person with a $25 nonrefundable deposit. Tickets to Caroling in the Caverns performances are $17.

Cosmic Cavern (870-749-2298; www.cosmiccavern.com), 6386 AR 21 North, Berryville. Open daily 9–5 spring, fall, and winter; 9–6 summer. Cosmic Cavern, at 64 degrees, is the warmest cave in the Ozarks. Tours are offered every 25 minutes in spring and summer, and every 45 minutes in winter and fall. You will see two bottomless cave lakes during your 75-minute tour, with one having cave trout in the clear, dark waters. The first lake, South Lake, has had trout in it for nearly 50 years. Some trout have gone blind and most have lost their color. The bottoms of these lakes have yet to be found. Cosmic Cavern has been named as one of the top 10 show caves in the United States, so don’t forget your camera, as there are several photo opportunities throughout the cave. During the tour, you can see the newly discovered Silent Splendor area, which has been hailed as a must-see in Arkansas. It houses one of the longest soda straw formations in the Ozarks, measuring over 9 feet! As you journey along the inspected and safe walkways, you will see many unique and beautiful formations of stalactites, stalagmites, flowstones, soda straws, helictites, cave bacon, draperies, and many other speleothems along the cave routes. Among the awesome cave formations you will also get a chance to see a rare and threatened salamander, the Ozark blind cave salamander. Admission for adults (ages 13 and up) is $14; children (ages 5–12) are $7.50; 4 years and under are free.

Mystic Caverns (1-888-743-1739; www.mysticcaverns.com), AR 7 South, Harrison. Seasonal hours vary, so call ahead. Here you have two of the most spectacular caves in the Ozarks—Mystic Cavern and Crystal Dome Cavern—at one location. Although their entrances are only 400 feet apart, Crystal Dome was discovered more than 100 years after Mystic. Guided tours begin in Mystic and retrace steps early settlers first took in the 1850s. Crystal Dome showcases an 8-foot-high dome in pristine condition, a rock museum, and a gift shop. You get quite a price break if you purchase tickets to both: adults (13 and older) $14.99 each; kids (ages 4–12) $6.99. Tickets for one cavern are $12.99 for adults and $5.99 for kids.

Onyx Cave (479-253-9321; onyxcaveeurekasprings.com), US 62 East, Eureka Springs. Call for hours and rates. This small show cave located about 6 miles east of Eureka Springs has been a tourist attraction since 1893, making it the oldest show cave in Arkansas. While it does not contain true onyx, it does have a kind of flowstone called cave onyx, which has a similar appearance. During the nineteenth century and the beginning of the 20th, many caves were named Onyx Cave, which makes it difficult to keep them straight. Tours are not guided but are given by headsets, which receive short-range FM transmissions from small boxes that alert tourists to chambers and rock formations such as Friendly Dragon, Witches’ Fireplace, and the Lion’s Head. Since the cave has only one public opening, visitors must exit the cave the way they entered. The cave stays at an average temperature of 57 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. Most of the cave is not toured.

PARKS Bull Shoals-White River State Park (870-445-3629; www.arkanasstateparks.com/bullshoalswhiteriver), 153 Dam Overlook Lane, Bull Shoals. The visitor center is open daily 8–5, with extended hours during spring and summer months. Talk about prime real estate. Arkansas’s seventh state park, Bull Shoals-White River State Park, is sitting on a sweet spot between two of Arkansas’s most prized recreational assets, its namesakes: Bull Shoals Lake and the White River. The US Army Corps of Engineers built 2,256-foot-long Bull Shoals Dam in 1951 as part of a massive damming project on the White, an effort to institute flood control on the river and generate power. Bull Shoals Lake is a fortuitous recreational by-product of that flood relief system.

The James A. Gaston Visitor Center’s vantage point overlooks the lake, the dam, and the river, providing the perfect outdoor classroom for interpretation about all three. Interpretive exhibits are featured throughout the lobby, gift shop, Johnboat Theater, and Exhibit Hall, a 1,720-square-foot area filled with images of the river, lake, and dam. These state-of-the art exhibits and the video presentation in the theater tell about the histories and fisheries these renowned waters hold. The center also includes an observation tower, gift shop, two classrooms, and park offices.

The 732-acre park has lakeside and riverside facilities. The lakeshore section is a day-use area with picnic tables, a playground, and the 1-mile Lakeside Trail. The main section of the park is on the river below Bull Shoals Dam. It features campsites for tent camping or recreational vehicles, bathhouses, a sanitary trailer dump station, picnic areas, a pavilion, playgrounds, trails, a gift shop, a boat ramp, and a trout dock offering supplies, equipment, and boat, motor, and canoe rentals. Park interpreters conduct several programs from the shores of the lake and the river when telling the area’s story. You can take a 90-minute johnboat float trip on the river, a party barge tour, or an interpretive canoe or kayak tour. Rates for the johnboat tour are based on the number of people in the boat. Party barge tours are $8.50 per adult and $4.50 per child. Kayak tours are $15 for adults, while kids glide for $7.50 each. You can also rent watercraft for independent exploration at the park’s marina. If you have your own motor or really strong arms, a motorless boat is $38 for a half day and $48 for the whole day. Add a motor for about $60 per day more. Paddle the park’s shoreline in a canoe ($20/day) or kayak ($25/day), or float the river for $55 a day. That includes your shuttle back to the park. The trails concealed within the Ozark landscape that surrounds the park beckon to mountain bikers, so the park kindly rents mountain bikes by the hour ($6.50) and the day ($33.50), and a few options in between. Camping opportunities along the river are abundant; the park’s 103 campsites run the gamut of lodging available in an Arkansas state park. Starting at the top, Bull Shoals has three of the Rent-an-RV ($85) packages; one Rent-A-Camp package ($40/day includes use of a platform tent, two cots, camp stove, cooler, and light), and every class of campsite from AAA ($34/day) to the bare-bones sites with no hook-up ($13/day).

Davidsonville Historic State Park (870-892-4708; www.arkansasstateparks.com/davidsonville), 7953 AR 166 South, Pocahontas. There is a mystery that surrounds old Davidsonville. Established in 1815, the town included the Arkansas Territory’s first post office, courthouse, and land office. It is known that the town’s decline was a result of being bypassed by the Southwest Trail, a critical commercial artery that meant life or death to fledgling towns. But what is not known is what caused its remaining residents to leave behind personal effects that were in perfect condition. Today, archaeologists are uncovering remarkable finds of streets, foundations, and objects that tell a fascinating story of life on the Arkansas frontier following the Louisiana Purchase. Park exhibits and interpretive tours provide information about this important frontier town. Fishing is a major activity here today. The park borders the Black River (boat launch ramp) and a 12-acre fishing lake (no launch ramp), offering a barrier-free fishing pier, fishing boats (trolling motors only), pedal boats, and canoes. Anglers may also choose from the nearby Spring and Eleven Point Rivers. Facilities include 30 campsites: 12 Class AAA ($34/day), 8 Class A ($27/day), and 10 tent ($13/day) sites; picnic areas; two standard pavilions (screened); playgrounds; four hiking trails, including a self-guided walking trail though the old town site; and a visitor center with exhibits and a gift shop.

Lake Charles State Park (870-878-6595; www.arkansasstateparks.com/lakecharles), 3705 AR 25, Powhatan. This recreational park rests on the banks of 645-acre Lake Charles. The spring-fed lake in the Ozark foothills offers a good opportunity to snag bass, crappie, bream, and catfish in a peaceful setting. Pitch your tent at one of 57 campsites (22 Class AAA and 35 Class B), or take advantage of the convenient RV or cozy yurt that is permanently set up and equipped for roughing it the easy way. The Class AAA sites are $34/day and the Class B sites are $22. Within walking distance are picnic sites, hiking trails, a standard pavilion (screened with ceiling fans), launch ramp, swimming beach, and playground. The visitor center’s gift shop offers gift items, camping supplies, and snacks. Boat (and kayak) tours of the lake are led by park interpreters who will point out the plant and wildlife native to the area. Ninety-minute self-guided tours have also been mapped out for you for the price of a kayak ($10/solo, $15/tandem). Boat tours are $7 for adults and $3.50 for kids; guided kayak tours are $10 for adults and $5 for kids.

Lake Leatherwood Park (479-253-7921; www.cityofeurekasprings.org), 532 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. This city park offers 1,600 acres of Ozark Mountain countryside with an 85-acre spring-fed lake, hiking, picnicking, walking trails, playground, camping, RV full hook-up, cabins with kitchenettes, and a small marina for boating, canoes, and paddleboats. Pets are welcome. The lake is formed by one of the largest hand-cut native limestone dams in the country. The dam and several structures at the park were built in the early 1940s by the WPA and are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Open March 1 through mid-November.

LAKES Bull Shoals Lake (870-425-2700; www.swl.usace.army.mil/parks/bullshoals/index.html) and the White River below its dam are synonymous with fishing in Arkansas. There are 19 developed parks around the shoreline that provide campgrounds, boat launches, swim areas, and marinas, and the 60,000 acres of public land surrounding it provide a variety of other opportunities. The US Army Corps of Engineers project, located in north-central Arkansas on the Missouri-Arkansas state line, enjoys a wide reputation for lunker bass fishing along with its twin, Lake Norfork, just to the east. Bull Shoals Dam was completed by the US Army Corps of Engineers in 1951. It is the fifth-largest concrete dam in the United States. Including the portion located in Missouri, the lake totals some 45,500 surface acres, with almost 1,000 miles of rugged shoreline open to visitors.

The parks developed on the lake’s shore have both camping and picnicking facilities. There are grills, firewood, tables, and drinking water at the picnic sites. Commercial docks on the lake have boats, motors, and guides for hire. Waterskiing and swimming are popular at Bull Shoals, as is cruising the hundreds of miles of lake arms and coves by motorboat or sailboat. Scuba divers come to Bull Shoals from many states to enjoy their sport in the blue water.

Greers Ferry Lake (501-362-9067; www.swl.usace.army.mil/parks/greersferry), Heber Springs. At the foot of Round Mountain in the beautiful Ozark Mountains of north-central Arkansas stands Greers Ferry Dam, which formed the lake when it was completed in 1964. The lake and dam were dedicated in 1963 by President John F. Kennedy, his last public appearance before the fateful trip to Dallas. With over 30,000 acres of water surface, the lake serves as a playground for all kinds of water sports. The 18 parks on the shoreline provide modern campgrounds, boat launches, swim areas, and marinas. Greers Ferry Lake offers great walleye fishing and excellent crappie fishing. In fact, every game fish native to the state has been stocked in the clear waters of the lake by the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission. A rainbow trout hatchery is in operation and furnishes the trout for stocking and fishing in the lake and below the dam in the Little Red River. Record fish catches are a common occurrence at Greers Ferry, which abounds in game fish such as bream, channel catfish, rainbow trout, and largemouth and white bass.

Norfork Lake (870-425-2700; www.swl.usace.army.mil/parks/norfork) offers more than 550 miles of shoreline and some 22,000 acres of outdoor recreation options. There are 19 developed parks that provide plenty of opportunities for camping and water sports. Developed parks offer campsites that range from rustic to modern, with electrical hook-ups, playgrounds, group picnic shelters, designated swimming areas, and boat-launching ramps. Fees are charged for the use of some facilities. With wide-open, breezy stretches for sailing and quiet, secluded coves for skiing and swimming, the clear and uncrowded waters of Norfork are ideal for scuba diving, attracting divers from throughout the central United States. The wooded and undeveloped shoreline allows for ample room to enjoy the hills and hollows. Concessionaire-operated marinas provide boat and motor rental, fuel, and other related supplies and services. The Robinson Point National Recreation Trail and the Norfork section of the Ozark Trail enable nature observers and photographers to view the Ozark Mountains through the change of seasons. You can fish for all varieties of freshwater game fish in the lake, which is fed by the North Fork (also called Norfork) River and its tributaries. Bass, walleye, crappie, bream, and catfish all make their home in its waters. The oldest of Arkansas’s large man-made impoundments, Norfork has consistent variety in its fishing. Lake Norfork contains one of the best striped bass fisheries in Arkansas. The lake is stocked annually, and stripers over 40 pounds are commonly taken. Many in the 30-pound class are caught every year.

The clear, blue water of 53,000-acre Table Rock Lake (417-334-4101; www.swl.usace.army.mil/parks/tablerock) extends from Branson, Missouri, to Eureka Springs. The US Army Corps of Engineers, which built and manages the lake, operates 13 campgrounds adjacent to it. Full-service marinas, fishing guides, and resorts are numerous. Resort rentals, a golf course, and other recreational amenities are available at Holiday Island near Eureka Springs.

images Lodging

WESTERN SALEM PLATEAU

BED & BREAKFAST INNS 5 Ojo Inn Bed & Breakfast (1-800-656-6734; www.5ojo.com), 5 Ojo Street, Eureka Springs. This upscale, historic bed & breakfast is situated on a large 1-acre wooded lot in the heart of Eureka Springs. This inn is well known for its three-course gourmet breakfasts and luxurious amenities. All rooms are elegantly appointed with period furniture, private baths, cable television, in-room refrigerators, coffeemakers, and high-speed Internet access. Nine rooms are equipped with two-person Jacuzzis; seven have fireplaces. You also have use of the outdoor hot tub on the inviting deck around the inn, and complimentary drinks and snacks. Wedding and other packages are available. Rates are seasonal and based on the day of the week, but generally range from $119–195 a night. The Tree Top Suite, which is billed as the largest B&B suite in town, has a sitting area, one bedroom, two baths, Jacuzzi, and fireplace, with rates ranging from $165 in off-season to $195. $$–$$$.

1884 Bridgeford House Bed & Breakfast (1-888-567-2422; www.bridgefordhouse.com), 263 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Bedandbreakfastinn.com proclaimed this the best place to stay in Eureka Springs. Nicknamed “The Painted Lady,” the 1884 Victorian inn has five guest rooms and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Located in the silk stocking district of Eureka, the Bridgeford’s neighborhood is a favorite with walkers because of the stunning Victorian homes and gardens that line the street. Each of the inn’s rooms features a private bath, private entrance, and cable television; some have Jacuzzis and fireplaces. A four-course gourmet breakfast is served daily, and freshly baked treats will be in your room in the afternoon. The inn’s private decks afford beautiful views of Eureka Springs. $$–$$$.

Angel at Rose Hall Bed & Breakfast (1-800-828-4255; www.arkansasinn.com), 46 Hillside Avenue, Eureka Springs. This AAA Four Diamond award-winning, 7,000-sqare-foot Victorian mansion’s romantic decor and spectacular condition make it a favorite with brides looking for an intimate setting for their wedding. The inn’s spacious rooms are beautifully decorated with period antiques. King Jacuzzi tubs, fireplaces, balconies, and designer linens add to the pampered services for which this inn is known. Each room has its own elegant style, featuring king-sized beds, fresh flowers, and stained-glass windows. A full breakfast is served, and the inn’s concierge service will gladly book shows, spa services, or just provide local directions and recommendations. Lodging packages are posted on the inn’s website. This immaculate inn is located in the historic district of Eureka Springs. Rates are both seasonal and based on the days of the week you book. A premier king suite ranges between $165 and $219 a night. $$–$$$.

Arsenic and Old Lace Bed & Breakfast (1-800-243-5223; www.eurekaspringsromancebb.com), 60 Hillside Avenue, Eureka Springs. Luxury amenities in a romantic Victorian Queen Anne–style mansion make this inn a favorite for honeymooners. Each of the inn’s five guest rooms has a private bath, whirlpool tub, private veranda, cable television, complimentary snacks, and fireplace. A gourmet breakfast from one of the inn’s elegant menus will make you want to book another night. The inn can arrange golf privileges for you if want to hit the links while in town. An intimate parlor is a perfect site for nuptials. This inn does accept pets, but they need a reservation, too, before you travel. Room rates range from $115 to $259 nightly. $$–$$$.

1881 Crescent Cottage Inn (1-800-223-3246; www.1881crescentcottage inn.com), 211 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. This bed & breakfast has four rooms with Jacuzzis. The beautiful property is part of Arkansas’s political history as well as the town’s. It was the home of Gen. Powell Clayton, first governor of Arkansas after the Civil War. Rooms are based on season and range from $109–149. $$–$$$.

Call of the Wild Bed & Breakfast (479-253-5841; www.turpentinecreek.org), 239 Turpentine Creek Lane, Eureka Springs. For a lodging experience unlike any other in the state, Turpentine Creek Wildlife Refuge has a purrfect opportunity for you. Stay on the grounds of America’s premier big cat sanctuary and enjoy the wild sights and sounds of your feline neighbors. These lodging facilities vary from large, spacious rooms ($125) with oversized garden tubs and great views of the cats to a quaint, secluded tree house ($150) with its in-the-trees ambiance. Completely unique in the state is the Safari Lodge, with five cabins ($150/night) all decorated with fantastic art and adorned with incredible views of the mountains. Each cabin has its own theme corresponding with different regions of Africa—Congo, Kilimanjaro, Kalahari, Serengeti, Okavango. The Safari Lodge also has an incredible outdoor gas firepit along with an upscale hot tub. For those who travel with their second home on wheels or want to tent camp, Turpentine has an RV park and campground available, too. Amenities include electric, water, and sewer hook-up; picnic tables; and fire rings with grills attached. The cost is $25 (price does not include admission to the sanctuary). $–$$$.

Flatiron Flats (1-800-421-9615; www.eureka-net.com/flatiron), 25 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Eureka Springs is packed with interesting architecture. In fact, a suburban ranch would stick out like a sore thumb in this town. But one candidate for most unusual structure, as well as the most recognizable building in town, is the Flatiron. Its triangular face, wedged between Spring and Center Streets, is truly ground zero in historic downtown. Balconies on the Flatiron overlook both streets and are perfect for viewing the numerous parades (literally dozens annually) that wind their way around both sides of the building, offering you not one but two opportunities to enjoy your bird’s-eye view. Your room is elegantly decorated with luxury linens, king beds, two-person Jacuzzi tubs, and fruit and wine baskets. As with all of Eureka lodging, rates are both seasonal and based on day of the week. Call for updated rates, but you can expect to spend between $125 and $175 per room. $$–$$$.

Heartstone Inn Bed & Breakfast (1-800-494-4921; www.heartstoneinn.com), 35 Kingshighway, Eureka Springs. This is a full-service luxury bed & breakfast located on the historic loop with six suites, three rooms, and two cottages, all with private baths and entrances. It offers a full gourmet breakfast at a private table, Jacuzzis, fireplaces, cable TV/DVDs with complimentary movies, Wi-Fi, golf privileges, afternoon refreshments, extensive decks and a gazebo, and off-street private parking. Small weddings can be arranged, and there is a massage therapy studio on the property. $$–$$$.

3 Oaks Country Bed & Breakfast (1-866-362-5722; www.3oaksbb.com), corner of AR 7 and Devore Road, Harrison. This B&B is a plantation farmhouse with three guest rooms nestled on 23 acres atop Kirk Mountain in the beautiful Ozark Mountains. At 3 Oaks, you will appreciate the down-home hospitality, hearty breakfasts, and peacefulness of country living. All bed & breakfast guest rooms have private bath and queen-sized bed, TV/VCR/DVD/CD, and clock radio. There is a parlor on the main floor where you can relax, read, and listen to music, or choose a movie from the extensive library. There are two verandas and an enclosed back porch to enjoy the beautiful Ozark hills and clean air. Room rates are based on the accommodations, as well as the season, ranging from $89–119 during the peak seasons to $69–99 during slower months. $–$$.

Queen Anne House (1-800-419-9907; www.queenannehouse.net), 610 West Central Avenue, Harrison. The Queen Anne House is an elegantly restored two-story Victorian home just blocks from Harrison’s town square. A romantic ambiance permeates the property, with its gingerbread trim, stained-glass windows, beautiful gardens, large wraparound front porch with rockers, enclosed glass solarium, ornate fireplace, and period antiques. There is a 56-inch high definition TV with movie library in the parlor, high-speed Internet in the lobby, wireless Internet throughout the property, and free local calls. Guest rooms include either an infinity spa hot tub or claw foot tubs and showers. A traditional, hearty Southern breakfast is served daily. Complimentary evening desserts and beverages are provided. Several different price points for lodging are available, with and without breakfast. You can get a room for $35 without breakfast, all the way up to $125 per night for a luxurious three-room suite that includes it. Log on to the website or call the inn for details. $–$$$.

CABINS AND COTTAGES Beaver Lakefront Cabins (1-888-253-9210; www.beaverlakefrontcabins.com), 1234 County Road 120, Eureka Springs. These luxurious cabins have everything you could possibly want in a lakefront cabin, not to mention a mansion in your hometown. The cabins are elegantly decorated with custom cabinetry, trim, and doors, luxury linens, and that million-dollar view. Cabin amenities include romantic Jacuzzis for two overlooking the lake, 42-inch HDTVs, his-and-hers terry robes and slippers, complimentary DVD library with over 500 movies, fully equipped kitchens, pillow-top mattresses, continental breakfast provided daily, and free Wi-Fi. Walk-in showers with full-body massage showerheads, surround sound home entertainment systems, and radiant floor heat are just a few of the cabins’ elegant details. The property also offers upscale amenities you won’t find just anywhere. An indoor, heated fishing area with underwater lighting will help you catch fish rain or shine, night or day. Complimentary pedal boats, a swim deck, and a covered picnic area are yours to enjoy on the lake. A 20-foot deluxe pontoon barge is available for rent if you want to venture farther offshore. Guests are also invited to take advantage of the challenging golf course at Holiday Island nearby. Cabin rates are seasonal and range from $200–245 a day off-season to $245–295 in-season. $$–$$$.

Beaver Lake Cottages (1-888-701-8439; www.beaverlakecottages.com), 2865 Mundell Road, Eureka Springs. These luxurious lakefront cottages feature contemporary, airy floor plans on the wooded shoreline of Beaver Lake. Each has a king-sized Sleep Number bed, glass and marble shower, TV with complimentary satellite and DVD player plus free library, Jacuzzi for two, and fireplace, and is very well equipped for housekeeping. Your cabin will come with all towels, linens, dishes, pots, pans, cooking spray, salt, pepper, sugar, sugar substitute, coffee, nondairy creamer, tea, hot chocolate, paper towels and napkins, full-sized kitchen appliances (including microwave, coffeemaker, toaster, mixer, and propane BBQ grill), candles and bubble bath for the Jacuzzi room, firewood and firewood starter (fireplaces closed May 15 through September 30 or first frost), and in-room phone for outgoing calls only. For your first night, they also provide beverages (your choice of wine or sparkling juice) and snacks, and for your first morning a continental breakfast of juice, pastries, and coffee. The seasonal daily rates range from a one-bedroom with Jacuzzi for $160–240 to a two-bedroom for $220–280, with various packages in between. $$–$$$.

Livingston Junction Cabooses & Depot (1-888-87TRAIN; www.estc.net/cabooses), 927 CR 222, Eureka Springs. Livingston Junction Cabooses are recently restored, renovated, and decorated to create unique, cozy, comfortable, and nostalgic lodging. Each caboose has its own private driveway—fashioned to look like a railroad bed—and an outdoor hot tub on a large deck with outdoor furniture, a grill, and a hammock. The name Livingston Junction combines the name of the hollow viewed down below the cabooses and the intersection where the original railroad from Seligman, Missouri, headed south to Harrison and beyond. It spurs off to historic Eureka Springs. That same spur is used by the Eureka Springs & Northwest Arkansas Railway excursion train, so you can hear the steam engine chug. In the fall and winter, get a bird’s-eye view of the railroad bridges and railroad junction. The cabooses rent for $95 a night. $$.

Rogue’s Manor at Sweet Spring (1-800-250-5827; www.roguesmanor.com), 124 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Smith Truer, the rogue behind the manor, is a true Renaissance man if there ever was one. There is a wall-sized mural in the lounge at his restaurant depicting Smith and local celebrities in Middle Age garb, and Smith seems as suited for that era as this one. Elegant details are thickly layered throughout the decor of all his properties, and the bed & breakfast inn upstairs from the restaurant is no exception. Nooks and crannies mingle with vaulted ceilings for an interesting backdrop for fine antique furnishings. Fine dining is just downstairs, including steak, seafood, and BBQ. The four suites at Rogue’s Manor each have a unique theme, a whirlpool tub for two, individual climate control, cable television, coffeemaker, and decks and balconies overlooking historic Eureka Springs, with in-room dinner and drinks from the restaurant available. Room rates range from $80–135 weekdays to $125–200 on weekends. Special event rates and packages are posted on the website, along with detailed descriptions of each of these original rooms. $$–$$$.

Texaco Bungalow & Bungalette (1-888-253-8093; www.texacobungalow.com), 77 Mountain Street, Eureka Springs. A couple of the village’s unique lodging options are the Texaco Bungalow and Bungalette, a renovated vintage 1930s art deco–style service station with two separate rental units. The Texaco Bungalow is located at the intersection of Mountain and White Streets in the historic residential district—within easy walking distance of fine restaurants, spas, and carriage rides. The former garage bays now compose the Bungalette. The rate for the Bungalow on weekend or single weekday is $139 a night. Two or more weekdays are $99 a night, excluding holidays or special events. Rates at the Bungalette are $99 a night weekends or single weekday. For two or more weekdays, rates are $79 a night. You can also rent both cottages for couples, girls’ outings, or family for $209 a night. $$–$$$.

Treehouse Cottages (479-253-8667; www.treehousecottages.com), 165 West Van Buren, Eureka Springs. Six different units, each with its own decor and amenities, are suspended amid the canopy on the hillsides of Eureka Springs. All of the tree houses are more than 22 feet off the ground and have a stunning view of the beautiful surrounding forest. There are two unique locations: one is within walking distance of the beautiful downtown Eureka Springs historic district; the other is aloft in a pine forest just a mile away. In addition to the tree houses, there is also a two-story guest cottage that overlooks a terraced flower garden and features a hot tub on the deck. The rate is $145–165 per night, every night, year-round. Some of the room amenities include fresh flowers, complimentary snacks and beverages (including their famous homemade bread), champagne and chocolates for honeymoon and anniversary guests, fine linens and Egyptian cotton towels, and a free movie library for your enjoyment. $$–$$$.

HISTORIC HOTELS 1886 Crescent Hotel & Spa (1-800-342-9766; www.crescent-hotel.com), 75 Prospect Avenue, Eureka Springs. Overlooking the entire Victorian village of Eureka Springs, the 1886 Crescent Hotel & Spa is a must-see in Eureka Springs. The all-encompassing view from Dr. Baker’s Lounge is unmatched. Aside from the Christ of the Ozarks statue, there is no landmark that symbolizes this town as much as this hotel. It was lovingly restored when Marty and Elise Roenigk purchased it in 1997, pouring more than $12 million into its initial makeover. Before his tragic death in the summer of 2009, Marty Roenigk continued to invest in bringing the hotel back to its original splendor. A devoted preservationist, his legacy can be found all over the state, including War Eagle Mill, the Basin Park Hotel, and the Gavioli Chapel. Located in the historic district, which has more than 100 restored Victorian shops, restaurants, and galleries, the hotel retains its nineteenth-century character, from the Victorian-style Crystal Dining Room to the bold colors and antique furnishings in its guest rooms. The Governor’s Suite is a truly unique offering among the luxurious options available. It consists of two spacious bedrooms with elegant furnishings and luxury beddings. A Jacuzzi bath will help you relax after a day of shopping or outdoor recreation. A balcony off the sitting room of the suite overlooks the garden and St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral below. The resort boasts 12 acres of meticulous gardens, walking trails, and unsurpassed mountain views. Jacuzzi and penthouse suites provide the luxury of the grandest resorts, while the hotel has a wide offering of premium doubles, premium kings, and king balcony rooms. Fine dining is available in the award-winning Crystal Dining Room. Premium rooms are $149 a night; the Governor’s Suite is $299. $$–$$$.

New Orleans Hotel & Spa (1-800-243-8630; www.neworleanshoteland spa.com), 63 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. The New Orleans Hotel offers the finest in luxury and elegance; it features king or queen beds, luxury baths with water jets, coffee service, and in-room refrigerators with sodas and bottled water. A small meeting room and reception area is available. Built in 1892, at the end of the Victorian era, the hotel reflects the charm and history of Eureka Springs as much as any place in town. The downtown location puts visitors on one of Arkansas’s most popular walking and shopping streets. The entire downtown shopping district, including the New Orleans Hotel, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Suchness Spa is located on-site. Call for seasonal rates; standard rooms start at $99 per night. Spa and couples packages are featured on their website. $$.

Hotel Seville—An Ascend Hotel Collection Member (1-866-660-7136; www.hotelseville.com), 302 North Main Street, Harrison. This immaculately restored hotel has a polished entrance, upscale guest rooms with quality furnishings, LCD televisions, well-lit desk and work space, high-speed Internet (wired and wireless), and business services that remind you that you are in the twenty-first century. The immaculate decor and elegance that surround you make it hard to deny you are in a luxury hotel. What you may forget is that you are in the heart of the Ozarks, miles from a major metropolitan area. In addition to all the other great comforts and amenities, all rooms at the 1929 Hotel Seville include a continental breakfast ($–$$). The main hotel has 42 guest rooms and a Presidential Suite with parlor, wet bar, balcony, glass shower with dual heads and bench, and whirlpool tub. The suite annex adds 14 executive suites with seating area pullouts, multiple televisions, and finely appointed furnishings. This is the place in Harrison where locals gather to celebrate important milestones and marry off their kids. The historic hotel is adjacent to the downtown business district. John Paul’s Restaurant & Gathering Place, where the locals gather, is located in the hotel’s lobby. Rates range from $71 for a standard room to $155 for a suite with a kingsize bed. $$–$$$.

RESORTS Dinner Bell Ranch and Resort (1-800-684-3324; www.dinnerbellranchandresort.com), 4462 County Road 302, Eureka Springs. Located on 140 peaceful and relaxing acres in the beautiful Winona Valley in the Ozark Mountains, all the new cabins are decorated with the cowboy and horse lover in mind. Each cabin at the Dinner Bell Ranch and Resort has its own theme and is complete with full kitchen, including dishes, coffeemaker, toaster, and glassware. You will also find a TV, a fireplace for cozy winter months, and an 8-by-30 deck to enjoy the dogwood trees blossoming in spring and the colorful fall foliage in autumn. Enjoy fresh homemade biscuits and muffins delivered to your door every morning. Kids and pets are more than welcome at the resort. Although smoking is not permitted in the cabins, the large covered deck on your cabin is available. Rates are $139–149 per night for two; kids 12 and under stay free. Horseback rides for both experienced riders and beginners are available. $$–$$$.

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (1-800-480-9635; www.gohcr.com), AR 74 West, Jasper. Horseshoe Canyon sits on the most beautiful piece of land in the state, taking your breath away as you crest the hill at its gates. A western dude ranch with trail rides, hiking, and canoeing (in-season) on the Buffalo National River, Horseshoe Canyon is an outdoor playground for kids and adults alike. Your horse will be chosen with your particular needs in mind, so you can relax and enjoy each ride. The large bluffs surrounding the ranch inspire awe in all riders. As you ride through or past the wooded areas, chances are good that you’ll catch a glimpse of some wildlife; deer, and turkeys are among the creatures seen regularly. There’s also a possibility of coming up on a herd of Ozark Mountain goats kept to help out with the 350 acres of yard work. The ranch features guest amenities that include a hot tub, swimming pool, and fishing pond, as well as activities like rock climbing, shooting, campfires, cookouts, and a children’s program. Sleeping arrangements consist of 13 log cabin units that can accommodate families ranging in size from two through seven. The larger cabins have an enclosed bedroom with a queen bed and a loft with a queen and two twins, or four or five twins. There are two ADA units that also have queen hide-a-beds. Horseshoe Canyon bases their rates on the season, and daily and weekly rates are offered. In high season, cabins are $205 a day for adults, $1,095 per week. Kids stay for $160 a day, $865 a week. Nonriders get special rates of $170 per day, $920 per week. They have a three-day minimum during summer months. Rates include cabins, three excellent meals each day, maid service, children’s program, canoeing (in-season), and lots of horseback riding, rock climbing, and all other ranch activities. $$–$$$.

Lost Spur Guest Ranch (1-800-993-7605; www.rent-a-ranch.net), 8148 Lost Spur Road, Harrison. This is a pet-friendly rent-a-ranch with a log lodge. Bring your horses and fishing gear. The Lost Spur ranch is a unique 116-acre facility that is available for short-term rental (six nights). When you rent the ranch, you have total occupancy. The log lodge will sleep eight people, and there are eight 10-by-12 stalls in a semi-enclosed barn. There is a large corral and miles of seldom-traveled country roads for beautiful, peaceful horseback rides. The air-conditioned lodge features a great room with a fireplace, and just off the great room is a full kitchen and a 12-by-54-foot covered porch with gas grill. Ranch rental is based on the number in your party: one to four guests, $1,750/week (six nights); five to eight guests, $150 each per week. Horses are also available for $20 per night per guest. $–$$.

EASTERN SALEM PLATEAU

BED & BREAKFAST INNS Old Ferry Road Bed & Breakfast; River Creel Cottage (870-431-4446; www.oldferryroadbb.com), 706 Old Ferry Road, Lakeview. This luxury inn is located between the White River and Bull Shoals Lake on 300 wildlife-filled acres in the Ozarks. If you are there to fly-fish, there is a library with fly-tying station and plasma TV, along with a game/media room with billiards and projection TV. All guests enjoy a full breakfast, private baths, wireless Internet, complimentary refreshments, and evening dessert. $$–$$$.

The River Reel Cottage ($250/night) is only four lots upstream from Gaston’s resort. It features two bedrooms, a well-appointed living and dining area, full kitchen, washer and dryer, screened porch, luxury hot tub, TV, telephone, and tree-shaded decks leading to private walk-in access to some of the best trout fishing in the nation. Room rates vary from $89–159 nightly, depending on the room you choose. $–$$.

Country Oaks Bed & Breakfast (1-800-455-2704; www.countryoaksbb.com), 17221 AR 9, Mountain View. Jerry and Carole Weber relocated to Mountain View from California because they fell in love with the mountains and the people. They designed and built a beautiful country Victorian home with more than 3,000 square feet of porch wrapped around it that are perfect for visiting and relaxing. The Webers are well suited to the art of innkeeping, being hospitable, well-traveled, and truly interesting company. My first night at the inn, I spent three stimulating hours with them on their front porch, eating Tommy’s Famous Pizza, watching the sun set, and listening to how they fell in love with Mountain View and wound up in this pastoral setting. The main house has five large guest rooms, each with private bath. A second structure, the Carriage House, was added a couple of years later and has three additional rooms, and parlors and sitting areas with games, television, and a library of books. There are also some decent-sized fish in the 6-acre private lake for catch and release fishing. Jerry has blazed over 2 miles of hiking trails on the property, which will help you work off the tasty country gourmet breakfast the Webers serve in their spacious dining room every morning. Jerry makes the best smoothies anywhere. Room rates range from $100–135 nightly. $$–$$$.

The Inn at Mountain View (1-800-535-1301; www.theinnatmountainview.com), 307 Washington, Mountain View. This AAA-rated bed & breakfast is on the National Register of Historic Places, but the 11 guest rooms offer today’s amenities, all with private baths, air conditioning, and wireless Internet. Each overnight stay at The Inn at Mountain View includes a full country breakfast served with farm-fresh country eggs, but if you find yourself hungry throughout the day, a guest pantry with refrigerator, teas, and home-baked snacks are yours to use. This rustic Victorian inn has common areas that offer a big-screen satellite television with DVD player, pool table, and games. A business center with Wi-Fi, a fax machine, and a conference room will let you maintain contact with the cold, cruel world, and a waterfall garden will help you escape it. Room rates range from $96 a night for a standard room to the Garden Suite for $145. $–$$.

Wildflower Bed & Breakfast on the Square (1-800-591-4879; www.arkansas-inn.com), 100 Washington Street, Courthouse Square, Mountain View. This circa 1918 Craftsman-style inn has six guest rooms and suites, each with private bath, queen and king beds, ceiling fans, and cable TV. Corporate rooms are available for business travelers, with phone, data port, and work area. There is free wireless Internet. Wildflower’s full buffet breakfast in their sunny dining room is a great way to fuel up for a day of sightseeing or enjoying the Ozark outdoors. Each day the inn features a different hot entrée made with rich golden eggs from a local farm. You will be served fruit, hickory-smoked bacon or ham, savory sausage, fluffy biscuits, and homemade sausage gravy. The buttermilk waffles and pancakes are light and fluffy, and the muffins and sweet breads are made from scratch. Be sure you try the homemade rhubarb sauce, plus delicious jellies and spreads made in Arkansas. Room rates, based on the room you select, range from $85–135 with nice discounts for midweek bookings. $–$$.

CABINS AND COTTAGES Buffalo Camping, Canoeing, and Cabins (870-439-2888; www.gilbertstore.com), 1 North Frost Street, Gilbert. These fully equipped cabins are located near the historic Gilbert General Store. Buffalo Benjamin’s Cabin ($275/night for 1 to 4 people; additional $20/night for additional guests) sleeps up to 10 and includes a hot tub and fireplace; River Cabins #5 and #6 ($200 per night for 1 to 4 guests) sleep up to 7, and each includes a fireplace and a spa tub for two; the Gilbert Cabins ($85 per night) are duplexes and sleep up to 4 each; Caroline’s Cottage ($200) sleeps up to 10; Mother Moore’s ($200) hosts up to 12; Cousin Hayley’s ($100) holds up to 5. All are within walking distance of the Buffalo National River; canoeing and rafting trips are available. This outfitter services the Middle District of the river. This section is classified as Class 1 whitewater, which is the easiest and suitable for beginning canoeists. If this is your first trip, they will be happy to give you some basic canoeing instruction. Shuttle fees are based on the length of your float and number of people in your group; call for a price. Rafts rent for $25/day, kayaks are $30/day, and canoes rent for $45/day. The campground has tent sites, and some RV sites with hook-ups are available, too. Tent sites are $7 per person; RV sites are $25 per couple. $–$$.

YOU GO FISHING, SHE GOES CATCHING

His Place Resort (1-866-435-6535; www.hisplaceresort.net), 89 Chamberlain Lane, Cotter. Owners Steve and Julie Raines have equipped this resort with everything you need for a thrilling, relaxing, and memorable fishing trip on the legendary White River: boat rentals; tackle shop; guided fishing trips; fully equipped housekeeping units (all have river views except for #8 and #9); covered riverside pavilion; nature trail; camping area; wildlife watching; and mountain bike rentals. While this is all great, the real treasures here are Steve and Julie. Not only are they full of interesting river stories and fish tales, they are exceptional anglers. Julie is the self-proclaimed Trout Diva, and she writes a fun blog for their website. These two are fishing the river every day—because they love it. Dale Douglas, one of the hired guides who books out of the resort, can spot a trout from 200 yards away and follow that by casting 10 yards upstream from them. The resort has different sizes and price points for lodging to fit your needs and budget. On two separate trips with them, we landed two trout worthy of forced release (accompanied by souvenir pin and certificate) in less than three hours on the first trip. The second trip was not marked by trophies but by the size of the stringer. We caught more than 17 really nice trout in less than half a day. We stayed in a cozy little cabin on the river. The smaller units hold 2 people ($80/day weekdays, $90/day weekends), and the largest holds up to 11 ($245/day weekdays), with sizes in between. Each unit has a charcoal grill for cookouts and is no smoking/no pets for your comfort. Licensed, professional, insured fishing guides know where the trout are for spin fishing and fly-fishing. A fully stocked fly and tackle shop plus a helpful heads-up on the preferred menu for the day are good support for your self-guided trip. Johnboats with motors, canoes, and kayaks are available for rent from their private boat dock. A little note to ladies: His Place Resort is wildly popular with guys about to get married, and you can meet some pretty cute single guys who are along for the celebration. Makes you want to take up fishing . . . girlfriends’ getaway, anyone? $–$$

3 Rivers Outfitters (870-856-4945; www.3riversoutfitters.com), 400 Church Street, Hardy. In Hardy, 3 Rivers Outfitters offers lodging and outfitter services on the Spring River and has a number of different lodging opportunities. The Couple’s Cabin has a full-sized bed, bath, refrigerator, coffeemaker, cable TV, and deck for $60 per night for two adults. The Eagle’s Nest is perched atop the 3 Rivers Outfitters Hill with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains. It has two rooms with a queen-sized bed and a full-sized sleeper sofa, bath, microwave, refrigerator, coffeemaker, cable TV, and a deck with a grill for $79 per night for two. The Cedar Cabin is situated along the banks of the beautiful Spring River and has a full kitchen, bath, two bedrooms, deck, and cable TV for $159 per night. The resort’s luxury offering is The Heron Cabin, with its king-sized bed, full kitchen, bath, cable TV, and futon sleeper sofa for $160 a night. Float trips range in duration from two to eight hours and have several different put-in points on the Spring River. Canoe rental rates range from $20–38; kayaks are $24–35. $–$$.

Little Red River House (501-375-7767; www.littleredriverhouse.com), outskirts of Heber Springs. Little Red River House includes a main house and a bunk house, both with fully equipped kitchens, baths with showers, natural rock fireplaces, decks with grills, TVs with cable and DVD, plus full access to the dock and the river. Seasonal pricing varies; rental rates range from $275 for a two-night stay to $700 a week. Pets are welcome, with their own rate and deposit. Boat rentals are $100, and you are on your own for gas. $$–$$$.

RESORTS Gaston’s White River Resort & Restaurant (870-431-5202; www.gastons.com), 1777 River Road, Lakeview. Gaston’s White River Resort is one of the foremost resorts on the White River, capable of enticing a travel writer to stop in midstory for a vacation day on his own dime. Known for first-class amenities, Gaston’s has no fewer than 12 different types of accommodations. They range from a standard room with two double beds for $85 a night to the two-story River Villa cabin with 10 bedrooms, 10 bathrooms, and large kitchen/dining/den area for $1,186 per night. The glass-enclosed restaurant is on the riverside and offers some of the most creative trout dishes you will ever eat. It provides three meals a day for resort guests. Breakfast is buffet style ($10) and served from 6–10 to ensure you can get on the water early or sleep late—your call. The lunch menu is offered from 10–5, so you can grab a snack no matter when you get off the river. The menu includes sandwiches, soups, and plate dishes like chicken-fried steak, with prices averaging $11 per person. The dinner menu features steaks, seafood, and, of course, trout prepared more ways than Bubba could name for Forrest Gump. Prices average $25 per entrée, topping out at $39 for the restaurant’s acclaimed filet mignon. A seasonal swimming pool, tennis court, hiking/nature trails, lounge, gift shop, private air strip for fly-in guests, and high-speed Internet complete the resort’s amenities. $–$$$.

Lindsey’s Rainbow Resort (1-800-305-8790; www.lindseysresort.com), 350 Rainbow Loop, Heber Springs. Lindsey’s has cozy rustic log cabins and a camping area. Each cabin has an equipped kitchen with range top, refrigerator, and sink; a sitting/dining area with cable TV; private bathroom; and is situated on or near the Little Red River. The campground has full RV hook-ups with cable TV, picnic tables, and hot showers. A modern trout dock with trout fishing pier, bait, tackle, snacks, and gifts all but put the fish in your boat for you. Boat and motor rentals and guide services are available. Pot O’ Gold Restaurant lets you dine beside the river on prime rib, steaks, catfish, sandwiches, and an extensive list of appetizers. The restaurant will also pack your lunch for you for fishing trips, and then prepare your catch with all the fixings when you get back. There is a large swimming pool and a playground for small children. Cabins have one to four bathrooms and one to four bedrooms; some have fireplaces and Jacuzzis. Rates for cabins are seasonal and based on amenities, ranging from $75–192 a night. $–$$$.

Puddin’ Ridge Farm (1-800-633-8166; www.puddinridge.com), 3050 Brownsville Road, Greers Ferry. This resort offers a country farm vacation experience with convenient access to area amenities, plus farm animals and a private fishing pond. Puddin’ Ridge has a lot of lodging options from which to choose: deluxe cozy cabins at the Farm or the Cove, and two lakefront homes. All are located on beautiful, clear Greers Ferry Lake in the heart of the Arkansas Ozark foothills. Cabins at the Farm have fireplaces, Jacuzzis for two, decks overlooking the woods, kitchenettes, and gas grills. They will run you $110–125 a night. At the Cove, the Lizard Trail Lakefront House sleeps 10 to 12 people, with three bedrooms, fully equipped kitchen, living room (with queen sleeper sofa), screened porch with futons, washer and dryer, and wood-burning fireplace. It is $200/night double occupancy. $$–$$$.

Red Apple Inn (1-800-733-2775; www.redappleinn.com), 1000 Club Road, Heber Springs. Red Apple Inn’s original design was meant to remind one of a Spanish villa. The furnishings were acquired while traveling Europe to give the inn an Old World charm. Each room is unique in style and furnishings. Fireplace rooms have king or double beds, with some rooms offering a balcony or patio. Suites consist of two separate living areas, with a king bed dominating the sleeping room and the living area holding a sofa, chairs, and television. They both open onto a natural breezeway, and one suite has a private balcony. A whirlpool tub makes bath time spa time. Free wireless Internet access is available in all guest rooms. The restaurant at the inn is one of Arkansas’s favorites for fine dining. The dining room is situated for lovely views in several different directions overlooking the lake, the landscaped patio, or the pleasantly shaded breezeway. It has been hailed in Southern Living magazine and specializes in delicious European fare with a Southern accent. Top off your meal with an elegant flaming dessert or the famous Sticky Pudding Cake. As with all of Arkansas’s resorts, rates at Red Apple Inn are seasonal, ranging from $80–95 for deluxe rooms to $110–130 for suites. Vacation homes are also available for rent through the inn, starting at $300 a night. Condominiums on the property have one to three bedrooms and range from $160–250 a night. $–$$.

Shepherd of the Ozarks (817-310-0280; www.shepherdoftheozarks.com), Harriet. Maps are downloadable from the website, or call for directions to this rural destination. Shepherd of the Ozarks (SOTO) has the most unusual group lodging you will find in the state. It’s not really about the amenities, though they are numerous. At SOTO, it’s all about the lodging. Nestled in this wilderness setting are six luxurious log cabin–style lodges varying in decor and size to sleep from 6 to a group of 400 people. All of them include kitchens, meeting rooms, private bedrooms, and bunk areas. Massive rock fireplaces, rocking chairs on the porch, and comfortable beds invite you to come away for refreshment and relaxation. Listing the amenities just doesn’t do them justice. Creatively designed with artistic handmade detail, the cabins have secret bedrooms where children can hide away for their own space. There is one cabin with a fireman’s theme that has an impressive display of uniforms, fireman’s hats, and a full-sized antique fire truck downstairs. All of its rooms are upstairs and incorporate the theme in handmade lighting and accessories. If you need to make a quick exit, there’s a fire pole from the sleeping area to the downstairs floor. SOTO is also popular with groups because of the amenities on its 460 acres. If it is active adventure that you want, SOTO has a high ropes challenge course, wilderness paintball, laser tag, and a cliffhanger swing (per person rates). Horseback riding on scenic trails is available year-round ($10 per hour). The Animal Arcade has lemurs, wallabies, llamas, and deer that are fun to pet and feed and watch. There’s a tame buffalo named Buford you can pet. The lodges vary in decor and size, and floor plans and photos will help you decide the one that best fits your needs. SOTO is great for groups, with sleeping areas tucked throughout the lodges. Firehouse Lodge sleeps 53; Indian Bluff Lodge sleeps 25–53; Big Creek Lodge sleeps 30–77; Wilderness Lodge sleeps 60–61; Cedar Lodge sleeps 15–39; Mini-Lodge sleeps 14–15; and the Hideaway Lodge sleeps 12. The Buffalo Center has 20,000 square feet for meetings and includes a full-service dining room, 500-seat auditorium, a loft for smaller gatherings, and four lodge rooms. Call for rate information for the lodging of your choice. $$–$$$.

Stetson’s Resort (870-453-8066; www.stetsons-resort.com), 906 County Road 7002, Flippin. The beautiful log cabins are located on the White River and can accommodate up to 10 in the five-bedroom, four-bath unit. All cabins have a great room with wood-burning fireplace, satellite television, and fully equipped kitchens. If you have come to the White River, you have come to fish. Guided fishing trips, boat, and motor rentals are available to ease your passage to the river. A swimming pool is also on the property for guests’ use. Weekend rates range from $160/night for a one-bedroom, one-bath unit to $720 a night for a five-bedroom, four-bath cabin. Weekday rates average 10 percent cheaper. $$–$$$$.

THE HORSE WHISPERER OF THE OZARKS

StoneCreek Ranch Resort (1-888-203-7433; www.stonecreekranchresort.com), 626 Circle B Lane, Mountain Home. StoneCreek is number two on my list of all-time favorite Arkansas destinations, and that is only because Arvell and Karry don’t have as many horses as Tanya and Scott have tigers. Arvell is a true-blue, genuine horse whisperer. I have seen him take a four-year-old, unbroken mare and lay two fingers on her hip and gently guide her direction. Did you know that every horse has an emergency brake? They do, and he will show you how to use it and eliminate the source of 95 percent of the fear most people have when they step on a horse. Arvell will teach you the right way to approach a horse to ensure that the animal is not afraid of you and show you how to recognize the gentle eye the horse will give you once you have passed its test. And it all happens on the smartest horses on the planet—cutting horses lovingly coached by Arvell himself. Accelerate your ride with gentle pressure with your shins, or stop on a dime with a slight pull of the reins and shifting your seat back in the saddle. I watched a seven-year-old German girl cut a calf from its herd without the need to learn the English language. (The story behind Arvell and Karry’s move to the Ozarks is a book in itself, and I will let them share it with you themselves.)

Two fully equipped, two-bedroom cabins sleep up to six each. But my favorites are the two guest rooms in the Barn Loft that overlooks the indoor arena. It lets you visit your horse in its stall at any time, and the sound of them whinnying peacefully in their stalls below makes a nice lullaby at night. You also have access to a full kitchen and dining area. Activities include indoor riding in the arena, outdoor riding, trail riding, and the cutting horse experience for the adventuresome. Pets are allowed by special prior arrangement. There is world-class fishing on the nearby White and North Fork Rivers, and water sports packages are available. StoneCreek has two deluxe cabins that sleep five to seven people in two queen bedrooms and one futon in the living room, plus one full bathroom. Price is $150 per night, with a three-night minimum for the first four people. The Barn Loft ($120 per night, two-night minimum) also sleeps four to six people and has two queen beds, one bunk bed, a full private bathroom, and a full kitchen. Eight Cowboy guest rooms in the Lodge sleep two and have their own plumbed vanity, sharing a toilet/shower with the adjoining room. All lodging includes use of a large lounge, dining room, conference area, full kitchen, and an indoor activity room with basketball and table tennis.

images Where to Eat

WESTERN SALEM PLATEAU

EATING OUT Café Soleil (479-253-2345; www.cafesoleilrestaurant.com), 3094 East Van Buren, Eureka Springs. Open Tuesday through Saturday 11–9, Sunday 10–9 (brunch until 2 p.m.). This is simple, elegant dining in a relaxed atmosphere with a menu featuring a fusion of international and contemporary American cuisine along with a surprisingly diverse selection of vegetarian offerings. The Chicken Soleil is a sure bet with roasted chicken breast, pine nuts, dried tomatoes, spinach, and goat cheese for $16. The freshly baked bread is also something you must try before your meal. Entrées range from $5 to $20. $–$$.

Casa Colina Grill & Cantina (479-363-6226), 173 Main Street, Eureka Springs. This upscale Mexican restaurant is located in an 1890s-era home on the top of Planer Hill in the Eureka Springs historic district. The menu features fresh traditional Mexican cuisine in an elegant yet relaxed atmosphere. The decks, porches, and dining rooms are further enhanced by the acres of natural wooded surroundings. Specials of the house include skewers of grilled steak with guacamole and mango salsa, Aztec boudin, and blackened red snapper with pineapple salsa. They have full beverage service and some of the best margaritas this side of the Rio Grande. Entrées range from $25–35 per person. $$–$$$.

DeVito’s of Eureka Springs (479-253-6807; www.devitoseureka.com), 6 Center Street, Eureka Springs. Open for dinner daily except Wednesday 5–9, brunch Saturday and Sunday 10:30–2. Authentic Italian cuisine voted the best in Arkansas (Readers’ Choice Award, Arkansas Times). Located on Center Street in historic downtown Eureka Springs, DeVito’s offers intimate dining in beautiful surroundings. The restaurant has been recommended twice by the New York Times and Southern Living, and has appeared in Gourmet and Bon Appetit. It is moderately priced, with most entrées between $15–20. $$–$$$.

DeVito’s Restaurant & Trout Farm (870-741-8832; www.devitosrestaurant.com), 350 DeVito’s Loop, Harrison. Open for dinner Monday through Saturday 5–9. This is the original DeVito’s family restaurant that started the culinary legend. This restaurant also features Italian cuisine with homemade pasta and toasted ravioli. The fresh seafood dishes, including the smoked trout pâté appetizer, are local favorites. My friend, who happens to be an Alfredo aficionado, proclaimed DeVito’s sauce to be the best she’s ever tasted. I couldn’t resist the trout, and what can you say about fish that was swimming that day? Fresh and flaky, perfectly prepared, and served by one of the best waiters who has ever served me. It’s not hard to imagine that a trout farm would have an extensive menu of dishes featuring the fish, and DeVito’s is no exception. It’s great fun to call ahead and catch your own trout at the on-site trout farm. Entrées range from $15–25. $$–$$$.

Ermilio’s Italian Home Cooking (479-253-8806), 26 White Street, Eureka Springs. Ermilio’s uses family recipes from northern and southern Italy, and serves them family-style to throngs of diners who wait on the porches of the restaurant for their reservation. Pick your pasta and made-from-scratch sauces like Aunt Millie and Uncle Sal used to make. You might want to walk from your hotel or B&B, as temptations like homemade Italian cream cake and tiramisu are not to be missed. Step away from the calorie counter for the duration of your meal. Ermilio’s is located on the historic route near the Crescent Hotel. Entrées average about $20 per person. $–$$.

Gaskins Cabin Steakhouse (479-253-5466; www.gaskinscabin.com), AR 23 North, Eureka Springs. Open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday 5–9, Sunday 5–8. Call for winter hours in December, January, and February. This outstanding restaurant is housed in an authentic log cabin built in 1864 by one of Eureka Springs’ first settlers—the well-known bear hunter, John Gaskins. It is the oldest standing property in Carroll County. Featuring famous prime rib and 21-day aged steaks, seafood, and chicken with generous portions and a romantic setting, Gaskins Cabin Steakhouse is a wonderful choice for any occasion. Entrées range from $17–30 per person. $$–$$$.

John Paul’s (870-741-2321), 302 North Main Street, Harrison. Open Tuesday through Saturday 3–10 p.m. for dinner. The Hotel Seville’s restaurant, John Paul’s, is the place to see and be seen. A classic neighborhood grill, the restaurant offers big burgers, hearty appetizers, and fun food, while diners also enjoy one of the few places in the county that serves cocktails. Decor is true to the proud history of Arkansas, with its most famous political statesman, John Paul Hammerschmidt, as its namesake. The menu is casual all day and features several fine dinner entrées after 5 p.m. Tap beers, burgers, appetizers, and specialty drinks served by employees in sharply pressed and appropriate uniforms complement the atmosphere. Entrées are extremely good values, topping out with a hand-cut 12-ounce rib eye that is grilled, blackened, or dry-rubbed and served with your choice of potato and the vegetable of the day for $18. $$–$$$.

Local Flavor (479-253-9522), 71 South Main Street, Eureka Springs. Open various hours; call to make sure they are open. Eclectic menu ranges from burgers to grilled salmon and oven-baked Brie; Sunday brunch features eggs Benedict, huevos rancheros, and omelets. Entrées start at $10 and range up to $25. $–$$.

Myrtie Mae’s Homestyle (1-800-552-3785; www.myrtiemaes.com), US 62 West, Eureka Springs. Open weekdays 7–8:30, weekends 7–9. Myrtie Mae’s is a relaxed, casual restaurant with a lovely view of the valley. Located in the Best Western Inn of the Ozarks, Myrtie Mae’s has been a tradition for many Eurekan visitors for decades. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily. The Sunday brunch menu features traditional Southern entrées: Ozark fried chicken, baked catfish, and steaks, as well as an extensive soup, salad, and fruit bar. All-you-care-to-eat lunch buffets are offered on Tuesday and Thursday. A children’s menu is available for kids under 12. Try their signature muffins and possum pie. Breakfast dishes run between $5–10 per plate; lunch runs from $6–12; and dinner entrées start at $10 and top out at $20. $–$$.

Mud Street Espresso Café (479-253-6732; www.mudstreetcafe.com), 22G South Main Street, Eureka Springs. Open Monday through Sunday (closed Wednesday) for breakfast 8–11 and lunch 11–3; open Friday and Saturday evenings for desserts, coffees, and spirits. This charming café was featured in Southern Living magazine for its food, but its decor is worth a trip all by itself. Exposed brick and hand-painted theatrical curtains will have your eye roaming and resting on a 360-degree visual feast. Burgers, chicken breast sandwiches, hot and cold sandwiches, wraps, soups, and salads are some of the many tasty menu choices that make Mud Street a favorite lunchtime spot in Eureka Springs. Entrées range from $7–15. $–$$.

Neighbor’s Mill Bakery & Café (870-741-MILL; www.neighborsmill.com), 1012 US 62-65 North, Harrison. Neighbor’s features whole wheat ground on a 100-year-old gristmill to make handcrafted American hearth breads and crusty European breads. Breakfast features French toast and pastries; lunch includes hot and cold sandwiches, focaccia pizzas, homemade soups, and salads; the dinner menu has expanded to include pasta. Gourmet coffee, tea, and espresso drinks are available. $–$$.

New Delhi Cafe (479-253-2525), 2 North Main Street, Eureka Springs. Open daily 8:30 a.m.–2 a.m. New Delhi serves Euro-style deli daily; it also has a great espresso bar on weekdays. The Friday through Sunday buffet featuring authentic East Indian foods contains all your favorites. New Delhi also hosts some great musical acts on weekends. Some of the Indian dishes are ridiculously cheap, starting at $3. You can get a nice sampling of their many dishes and a doggy bag for less than $15 per person. $–$$.

Rogue’s Manor at Sweet Spring (1-800-250-5827; www.roguesmanor.com), 124 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Rogue’s Manor is one of my favorite restaurants in the state. Owner Smith Truer is from Oregon, and his Pacific Northwest contacts make for high-quality and extremely fresh menu items right here in the Ozark Mountains. Two-bite oyster shooters and fresh sea bass are almost commonplace on Smith’s diverse menu. The Victorian structure with turrets and gables translates into multiple dining rooms for intimate dining, no matter how packed the restaurant might be. The lounge is especially cozy, with richly upholstered leather wingback chairs and a glass wall that reveals a well-lit waterfall just outside. It is very hard to pick a favorite here, but I have decided that I want to be buried in the potted Montrachet ($13) on the appetizer menu, so it is definitely worth mentioning. Entrées range from fettuccini Alfredo ($13) to the hand-cut aged beef porterhouse steak for $68. Rogue’s offers specialty desserts; the menu changes regularly, but if it’s offering a chocolate mousse, order it. Even if they have to pack it up to go for you. The lounge at Rogue’s is one of the best places in town for a cocktail, too, with bartenders who make their own simple syrups for mixers. They know how to properly pour an Irish coffee, too. Rogue’s Manor has been recognized by every travel publication to pass through this area, and a few cuisine magazines like Bon Appetit, too. $$–$$$.

Rowdy Beaver Restaurant & Tavern (479-253-8544; www.rowdybeaver.com), 417 West Van Buren, Eureka Springs. This nonsmoking, full-service tavern offers casual dining in a family atmosphere, with a separate outside deck and patio for smoking patrons. Rowdy’s diverse menu offers an option for every palate: pasta, pork chops, BBQ, mahi-mahi, tilapia, burgers, and salads. If that wasn’t enough, a Southern menu was added, too. $–$$.

Sparky’s Roadhouse Café (479-253-6001; www.sparkys.net), 147 East Van Buren, Eureka Springs. The menu is eclectic American with hamburgers, nachos, and quesadillas. Sparky’s has excellent soups made fresh daily. A large screened-in deck with ceiling fans in the back is a perfect place to unwind after fishing or shopping or feeding the tigers at Turpentine Creek. Entrées range from $10–20. $–$$.

EASTERN SALEM PLATEAU

178 Club (870-445-4949), 109 Central Boulevard, Bull Shoals. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday 11–9; open Sunday 9–8. The extensive menu includes something for everyone. For those with a sophisticated palate, calamari, escargot, and scallops will satisfy their need for fine dining. More casual diners will find that an extensive selection of burgers, nachos, chicken livers, and sandwiches are also available. $–$$.

Anglers White River Resort (1-800-794-2226; www.anglerswhiteriver.com), intersection of AR 5, 9, and 14, Mountain View. Open in summer, Sunday through Thursday 11–8, Friday 11–9, Saturday 7–9, Sunday 7–11 a.m. Winter hours are Wednesday and Thursday 11–7, Friday and Saturday 11–8, Sunday 11–3:30. This fishing resort is located in the Ozarks on the White River and Sylamore Creek. If the rustic exterior didn’t say fishing/hunting to you, once inside the taxidermy will make the point. The restaurant features American-style ribs, steak, catfish, and BBQ. It is located five minutes from the Syllamo Mountain Bike Trail; no pets are allowed inside the restaurant, so leave Fido in the cabin. Better yet, take him a doggy bag—at $15 per person for lunch or $25 for dinner, you can afford to take a little home. $–$$.

Brenda’s Sale Barn Café (870-892-0240), 706 Townsend Drive, Pocahontas. This is not the place to take your vegetarian friends. Brenda’s is located in a real live sale barn—a place where cattle ranchers meet to conduct business—and the menu reflects a deep appreciation for the product. Country-folk carnivores know that these places are among the best for the finest and freshest beef around. Brenda’s is no exception, and from her Southern-style breakfast to steaks cooked to order, you know that all of these regular customers you see are there because the food is great. If you like chocolate gravy, go for breakfast; Brenda’s has the best I have ever eaten anytime or anywhere. Breakfast runs about $7 each off the menu. Lunch and dinner run the gamut, but expect an average of $20 per person. $–$$.

Parachute Inn Restaurant (870-886-5918), 10 Skywatch, Walnut Ridge. Open Tuesday through Thursday 8–2. Part of this restaurant is now housed in a reconfigured Southwest Airlines Boeing 737. The interior has been restored to give it the original Southwest look, and the seats have been adjusted to fit the tables. Store your coats in the overhead bins. The Parachute Inn serves Southern homestyle cooking and seafood that is head and shoulders above your typical airline fare. It has been featured in USA Today, the Dallas Morning News, Splash News (Great Britain), and on ABC. Entrées average $15–22 per person. $–$$.

Tommy’s Famous . . . A Pizzeria, Inc. (870-269-3278; www.tommysfamous.com), AR 66 (West Main Street) at Carpenter, Mountain View. Open Tuesday through Saturday 11–9. Tommy’s serves Memphis-style ribs, hand-tossed pizza, and homemade pesto, drawing people here from hundreds of miles away and earning accolades from local media, Southern Living, and National Geographic Traveler. Awarded Arkansas Times’ best pizza in northeast Arkansas every year since 1996. Family owned and operated since 1991, Tommy’s is known for their ribs, but the calzones and pizza are also excellent. From the cooked-daily hickory-smoked BBQ, baby back ribs, and beans to the homemade coleslaw, each entrée has quite a following. The 5-pound Fatboy and veggie pizzas are perennial best-sellers. Go with a lot of people and practice your sharing skills. Expect to spend between $10 and $20 per person, without alcohol. $–$$.

images Entertainment

Free Music in Basin Spring Park (479-253-2586; www.eurekasprings.org), Basin Spring Park on Spring Street in historic downtown. Free performances in Basin Spring Park are held every Friday and Saturday from noon to 6 p.m. and Sundays from noon to 4 p.m. You will be amazed at the talented artists you find performing around this spring. Headliners from local clubs will frequently put in a set in this historic park right in the center of town, with the music serenading shoppers and diners throughout downtown.

Eureka Springs City Auditorium (1-888-855-7823; www.theaud.org), 36 South Main Street, Eureka Springs. This little auditorium is a real favorite with a lot of the nationally known performers who make it a point to include it when they go out on the road. I once worked on a movie that was filmed in Eureka Springs, Pass the Ammunition, about a televangelist who was just a wee bit shady, and his set was at the Aud, as it is affectionately called. The movie ends with the Aud in flames—fortunately, it was only a movie. The Aud offers an intimate setting with clear and distinctive acoustics. With the balcony and main floor, it seats 984. The auditorium has a long history of attracting stars; the first performance in the facility was John Philip Sousa and his 67-piece band. The auditorium was the dream of Mayor Claude A. Fuller, who pushed construction in 1928. He aimed to fill the needs and expectations of visitors who desired the most current entertainment available while visiting the Victorian town known for its beautiful scenery and soothing springs. It continues to attract big names such as John Prine, Alison Krauss, Emmylou Harris, Béla Fleck, and Willie Nelson.

Escape Room 13 (479-308-8624; www.escaperoom13.com), 13 North Main Street, Eureka Springs. Open 10–10 daily. This family friendly activity is suitable for anyone from eight to 80 years of age. Eureka Springs is a town with a rich and vibrant history from which the creators of Escape Room 13 have drawn upon when crafting their mysteries. The 1822 Eureka Springs bank heist is revisited, and visitors are challenged to solve the case with clues, secret messages, and hidden passages. Tickets for the one-hour experience are $25 per person. Group discounts are also available.

Fun Spot (479-253-7548), 3173 East Van Buren, US 62 East, Eureka Springs. Very varied hours; call ahead or stop if you see they are open, which it seems like they always are, except during church. This family entertainment center has go-carts, bumper boats, miniature golf, batting cages, and an arcade. It’s a great outing for restless dads and children who are tired of watching Mom shop.

Imperial Dinner Theatre (870-892-0030; www.imperialdinnertheatre.com), 1401 AR 304 East, Pocahontas. Open Friday and Saturday; dinner is served at 6:30 p.m., show starts at 7:30 p.m. A Sunday matinee serves lunch at 1, with the curtain going up on the first act at 2. This family-oriented dinner theater is in the charming atmosphere of the renovated 1930s Imperial Theatre. One of my favorite things about the Imperial is that it features a multigenerational resident acting company, which includes actors ages 7 to 80. The Imperial also has a studio for the arts that offers classes, workshops, and summer camps in all areas of fine arts. Tickets for dinner and the show are $25 for adults and $20 for students. You can also go and just see the show for $15 per adult and $10 per student.

Jimmy Driftwood’s Barn (870-269-8042), 19775 AR 5 North, Mountain View. Open Friday through Sunday from 7 p.m. until they close her down. Jimmy Driftwood is a local legend in these parts, and if you are in Mountain View for the music, his barn is a must-see for you. Local musicians play country, bluegrass, and gospel music year-round.

Lyric Theatre (1-888-283-2163; www.thelyricharrison.org), 113 East Rush Avenue, Harrison. This is a beautifully restored theater with a somber beginning. It opened the day after the stock market crashed in 1929, so it failed to receive the fanfare it might otherwise have. Soon after it opened, a painter came by and offered to paint murals on the walls in exchange for a place to stay and a little food and money. The vibrant scenes he left on the Lyric’s walls will rival any performance on its stage, yet the artist’s name is not even known. There are a number of events held here each year; check the website for performance and ticket information.

The Great Passion Play (1-866-566-3565; www.greatpassionplay.com), 935 Passion Play Road, Eureka Springs. The season runs May 1 through October 24; show times are based on sunset and posted on the website. An unforgettable and inspiring performance enjoyed by more than 7 million people from all over the world for over 35 years. The script has been updated within the past few years, as has the music. A cast of hundreds performs amid historically accurate stage settings; The Great Passion Play brings to life the thrilling, epic drama surrounding Christ’s last days on earth and his death and resurrection. Performed in a stunning 4,100-seat panoramic outdoor amphitheater, The Great Passion Play features state-of-the art sound and lighting effects and original music in a dramatic two-hour presentation. The story is told with a huge cast in a ginormous way: the colorful spectacle of the marketplace, the pageantry of the chariots and camel caravan, and the hustle and bustle of the crowds as they go about their daily activities drawing water from the well or herding their sheep through the streets of Jerusalem. You can join the cast if you are one of the first four to ask; call before you travel just to be safe if it is important to you. People come from all over the country as a pilgrimage just to be a part of the greatest story ever told.

Opera in the Ozarks at Inspiration Point (479-253-8595; www.opera.org), 16311 US 62 East, Eureka Springs. The view from Inspiration Point will make you want to do a Julie Andrews and burst into song. If you’re like me and can’t carry a tune in a suitcase, you can still enjoy Opera in the Ozarks; it presents three fully staged operas as part of an annual summer opera festival featuring outstanding young artists. The theater has roof coverage for the audience and stage, and open siding similar to the Santa Fe Opera. Check the website for performance and ticket information.

Ozark Mountain Hoe-Down (1-800-458-2113; www.theozarkmountainhoedown.com), 310 East Van Buren, Eureka Springs. Open daily except Tuesday; closed most of December and a lot of November, so check the website if you are traveling during those months. The Hoe-Down Gang performs contemporary, country, Cajun, pop, and gospel entertainment. Ticket prices are adult $21.50; senior $20.50 (62 and over); military $17.50.

Stone Drive In (870-269-3227; www.stonedrivein.net), off Highway 87 North near the water tower, Mountain View. Open Friday through Sunday, shows start at 8:45 p.m. Good old-fashioned family fun reigns in Mountain View. The Stone Drive In plays first-run movies beneath the starry skies of this hamlet in the Ozark mountains. Children 12 and under are free; over 13 years of age are $5. Rain or shine, the show goes on.

images Selective Shopping

Antique Warehouse (501-745-5842; www.antiquewarehouse.com), US 65 and AR 110, Botkinburg. Open Monday through Saturday 9–5, Sunday noon–5. The largest antique inventory in the country is stashed in 12 buildings, encompassing more than 90,000 square feet of warehouses, shops, and showrooms.

Arkansas Craft Guild Gallery (870-269-3897; www.arkansascraftguild.org), 104 East Main Street, Mountain View. Open Tuesday through Saturday 9:30–6. This retail shop features both fine art and handmade, traditional, and contemporary crafts by some 300 Arkansas artists who are members of one of the oldest craft guilds in the mid-South.

Black River Beads & Pottery (870-248-0450; www.blackriverbeads.com), 213 East Broadway Street, Pocahontas. Open Monday through Thursday 10–5, Friday 10–4, Sunday noon–5; closed Saturday. Located on the historic courthouse square in downtown Pocahontas, Black River Beads & Pottery features the work of James and Amanda Tinker, as well as the other local artists they promote in this shop. Handmade glass beads, stoneware pottery, hand-poured soy candles, and unique gifts are stocked in stunning displays. Each bead is individually crafted, and many original jewelry pieces are also available. If you are looking for jewelry for a special occasion or outfit, they will be glad to work with you to design a one-of-a-kind piece. The shop carries the work of several local artists.

Crystal Waters (479-253-0222), 7 Basin Spring Avenue, Eureka Springs. Generally open daily 11–5, occasionally later for special events. Crystal Waters specializes in Arkansas quartz crystals, and this shop has everything you need to create sanctuary in your life. Shelves are stocked to the brim with crystals and gemstones from around the world, incense, candles, jewelry, and art—an eclectic blend of nature and nurture. Located on the stairway directly across from Basin Spring Park, you can also book a tarot reading with a medium through the shop.

Iris at the Basin Park (479-253-9494), 8 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. This shop is located on the street level of the Basin Park Hotel and stocks beautifully handcrafted items created by talented local artists. They also carry a nice selection of art glass pieces and Judaica.

Earl’s Antique Mall (870-425-8578), 3328 Highway 62 West, Mountain Home. Open 10–5 daily. Earl’s Antique Mall is one of those stores where you are likely to find something you want even if you are just window shopping. If you can’t find something in their 11,000 square feet of shopping space, then you just aren’t trying. Forty room and 77 display cases break down the massive inventory into well organized clusters of gifts, antiques, and collectibles.

Quicksilver Gallery (479-253-7679), 73 Spring Street, Eureka Springs. Open Monday through Friday 10–5. This gallery features the works of over 120 local, regional, and nationally known artists. There is no shortage of one of a kind items when every item is handmade. Tapestries, wildlife watercolors, photographs, limited edition prints, pottery, and jewelry are displayed on two levels in the heart of downtown Eureka.

Shelby’s (870-741-5309; www.shopshelbys.com), 215 North Main Street, Harrison. Open Monday through Saturday 9–5. Shelby’s is a 7,500-square-foot freestanding establishment that’s been in business since 1976. Kitchen utensils and gadgets, bath and beauty products, server ware, and dozens of other household products are available both in their store and online.

White River Pottery (870-425-2164), 397 Remington Circle, Mountain Home. Seasonal hours; call before visiting. This craft store features hand-thrown pottery and the work of local artists.

images Special Events

April: 22nd Annual Ozark UFO Conference (501-354-8158; www.ozarkufo.com), Inn of the Ozarks Convention Center, Eureka Springs. It makes sense, if you think about it, that a town like Eureka Springs, with so many spectral citizens, might also attract a couple of aliens, too. Who more likely to embrace otherworldly visitors than those accustomed to supernatural ones? If you just want to believe, or if you consider Mulder and Scully to be folk heroes, this is a good conference for you. Lectures are offered throughout by nationally known authorities on various aspects of UFOs. There are usually between 9 and 10 speakers, plus vendors of books, tapes, and DVDs on all aspects of UFOs. Anyone with an interest in the subject should attend. Admission: $45 in advance, $50 at the door.

May: Syllamo’s Revenge Mountain Bike Challenge (870-269-8068), Mountain View. More than 50 miles of awesome mountain biking through the beautiful Ozark Mountains, Syllamo’s Revenge is rapidly gaining popularity with mountain bikers around the country. Unlike many mountain bike trails that have a limited area for trail construction, the Syllamo Mountain Bike Trail stretches over thousands of acres of the Ozark National Forest, offering riders changing scenery and beautiful views of the White River and Sylamore Creek Valleys and the Ozark Mountains.

September: Off the Beaten Path Studio Tour (870-269-4103; www.offthebeatenpathstudiotour.com), at 25 artists’ studios within 30 miles of Court House Square in Mountain View. This is a unique opportunity to visit the private working studios of artists and craft artisans and see firsthand the distinctive work created by these artists. The tour includes potters, jewelers, painters, photographers, metalworkers, wood turners, weavers, bead makers, and more. The studios are open Friday and Saturday 9–6, Sunday 10–4. There is also an artists’ reception on Friday evening. Admission is free for the studio tour, but call the chamber of commerce for information about the reception.

October: Annual Beanfest & Outhouse Races (870-269-8068; www.yourplaceinthemountains.com), Courthouse Square, Mountain View. More than 1,000 pounds of pinto beans are cooked in huge iron kettles around the courthouse square. Folks come from all around, armed with their secret ingredients and the determination to stir up the best batch of beans. Later the most outrageous race in the country takes place as outhouse racers are pushed down the course by teams vying for the coveted gold toilet seat.

Artisans Market on the Square (www.artisansmarketonthesquare.com), Courthouse Square, Mountain View. The Artisans’ Market at Beanfest takes one of Arkansas’s longest-running festivals and combines it with two of the Ozarks’ finest resources—artisans and craftspeople. The result is a fun-filled weekend featuring folk music, folk cuisine, and fine arts and crafts. Definitely worth the trip! The festival is held the last weekend of October. Market hours are noon–5 Friday and 9–4 Saturday. Handmade fine contemporary arts and crafts, heritage arts, and folk art are featured. Admission is free.

November: Annual Ozark Folk Festival (479-253-2586; www.eurekasprings.org/folk), Basin Spring Park and the Eureka Springs City Auditorium, Eureka Springs. This is the oldest continuously running folk festival in the country. Eureka Springs continues to draw the world’s best folk musicians to venues throughout the Victorian village. An updated list of events and performers is maintained on the website. Admission varies by the venue, with many free performances on the street.