Researching a guidebook is fun, but it’s no small task, and this sixth edition could not have been accomplished without the assistance of a coterie of selfless and supportive folk, not least the dozens of casa particular and paladar owners, Cuban entrepreneurs, and state employees who supported me in their own ways, large and small. They are too many to mention individually.
As always, I am indebted beyond words to my dear friends Jorge Coalla Potts, his wife, Marisel, and their daughter, Jessica. No words can express the devotion I have for this wonderful family, nor the appreciation I feel for their genuine affection, generosity, and support. Likewise, in Trinidad, Julio Muñoz Cocina and his wife, Rosa, continue to offer me the very best of friendship and support.
My time in Cuba in recent years has been blessed by the company of professional violinist and dear friend Ekaterina James Triana, who exemplifies the very best of the upbeat, compassionate, easy-going Cuban persona. This book is dedicated to her.
Thanks go to all my friends, acquaintances, and others who kindly forwarded clips and offered insight and tips on Cuba, and especially to those readers who took the trouble to write with recommendations, warnings, and general comments. Alas, they are too numerous to be acknowledged individually, although I would be remiss if I failed to single out my dear friend Ralph Martell, a cubaphile and bon vivant, as well as Matt Pickles, publisher of the astoundingly accomplished Cuba Absolutely online magazine.
I am also extremely grateful for the support of everyone who contributed in ways large or small to the production of the prior editions, helping lay the foundation of this all-new edition.
¡Gracias! too to the countless Cubans who shared insights and shone the light on obscure issues, displayed selfless hospitality, welcomed me into their hearts and homes, and with unequaled verve, virtue, charity, patience, and grace taught me that I, and the world, have much to learn. As always on my lengthy research trips, Cubans everywhere embraced and welcomed me, touching my heart.
This edition I was fortunate to spend the greater part of the past three years in Cuba leading “people-to-people” programs for National Geographic Expeditions, MotoDiscovery, and Santa Fe Photo Workshops. Together they unveiled countless venues I was previously unaware of and introduced me to a pantheon of notable and lesser-known Cubans whose insights have added invaluably to my understanding and knowledge of Cuba. Thank you!
Yet again, I came away feeling like my friend Stephanie Gervassi-Levin, who on her first visit to Cuba began dancing uncontrollably in a casa de la trova. The Cubans formed a line and, “like a diplomat,” took her hand, kissed her cheek. As I set out to write the first edition, she implored, “Chris, bring your genuine feeling into your pages. Breathe the innocence and beauty of Cuba without castrating Castro and his revolution.” She set me a difficult task.
Ernest Hemingway, who loved Cuba and lived there for the better part of 20 years, once warned novice writer Arnold Samuelson against “a tendency to condemn before you completely understand. You aren’t God, and you never judge a man. You present him as he is and you let the reader judge.”