Makes 10 to 12 servings
THESE ARE AMONG my all-time favorite tapas, little kebab-skewers of bite-size pieces of pork, lamb, or veal, macerated in an East-West blend of spices with garlic and pimentón or paprika. They’re especially popular in Andalucia, where tapas first evolved, and they’re a nifty accompaniment to a chilled glass of fino sherry or manzanilla. In Andalucian markets you can buy an already prepared mixture of spices but your own mixture, made up for the occasion, will be fresher and more interesting. Try the aromatic proportions suggested below, then, if you wish, adjust them to your own taste.
In Andalucia these are strung on little bamboo skewers that have been soaked in water so they don’t burn. They’re grilled over a charcoal brazier but you can also cook them under an oven broiler.
In my experience, pork is the best meat to use for pinchos, especially a cut such as country-style boneless ribs, with fat mixed with lean so the bits of meat don’t dry out too much.
Serve these with drinks as part of a tapas tray, along with bowls of roasted salted almonds and spicy olives.
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon turmeric
2 teaspoons mildly hot Spanish paprika (pimentón)
freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1¼ pounds pork, cut into small pieces (about ½ inch to a side)
Crush the garlic with the salt in a mortar until you have a paste.
Combine the coriander and cumin seeds in a dry skillet. Set over medium-low heat and toast for several minutes, until the spicy aromas start to rise. Transfer the spices to the mortar and pound gently into the garlic paste. Mix in the turmeric, paprika, lots of black pepper, the olive oil, and the lemon juice. Transfer the mixture to a bowl.
Add the pork pieces and stir to mix well. Set aside, covered, for at least an hour or so, or overnight.
Half an hour before you’re ready to cook, if you’re using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for at least 30 minutes. (You will need 10 to 12 short skewers.) Get the grill or broiler ready to cook.
Thread the meat pieces on the skewers, 4 to 5 pieces to a skewer. Each piece should touch the others but not be jammed tightly together.
When the grill or broiler is ready, cook the skewers, turning them once, for a total cooking time of 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and serve immediately with a dry fino sherry or Manzanilla from southern Spain.