EAT MORE VEGETABLES,” government diet specialists thunder, and the American Cancer Society chimes in: “Five a day! Five a day!” Everywhere the message is unmistakable—we Americans have to get more fresh vegetables into our diets, and the way to do that is not by doubling an order of french fries and ketchup to go with a lunchtime burger. Most people who give even a little thought to the relationship between food and health need no persuading that fresh fruits and vegetables, full of vitamins and fiber along with important antioxidants, polyphenols, and other trace elements that are even now not well understood, are the very foundation of a healthy diet. They know too that we should all be consuming more vegetables, including beans and grains, and a good deal less meat and meat products.
This is not a new or revolutionary idea. No less a patriot than Thomas Jefferson, writing to a friend in 1819, said: “I have lived temperately, eating little animal food, and that not as an aliment, so much as a condiment for the vegetables which constitute my principal diet.” Yet today, less than one-third of American adults and, somewhat more shockingly, only 20 percent of American children consume the recommended five servings a day.
Yet, if the message is unmistakable, the method is less than clear. Five a day of what exactly? And how am I supposed to do it? Say I have cereal and yogurt at breakfast (because I need the fiber and the calcium) and a half sandwich and a cup of soup at lunch (because I work in a midtown office and that’s the most acceptable lunch available). Then I come home tired but willing to put a little effort into the evening meal both because cooking is a good way to come down off a high-tension workday and because I care about the quality of what I put into my body and the bodies of those I nurture and cherish. What should I cook for dinner?
Adding vegetables to the diet doesn’t necessarily mean staring at a plate of naked broccoli at suppertime. As Mediterranean cooks know well, vegetables can be slipped into an overall menu plan in dozens of different ways, ways moreover that don’t just add bald quotients of nutrients to the diet but add appetizing flavor and color, verve and excitement to the plate. Think of a piece of grilled meat or fish on a plain white dinner plate. It was prepared in the proper manner, brushed with olive oil, sprinkled with fresh herbs, cooked until just done, and there it sits—interesting, but … as Gertrude Stein said of the city of Oakland, “There’s no there there.”
But add to that grilled meat or fish what Italians call the contorno (the word comes from the decorative arts and means “cornice” or “border”). Make the contorno broccoli, just for the sake of the argument. Only make it steamed lightly until very tender, so that the deep green color shines, then chopped coarsely and turned in a little salsina of warm olive oil with some minced garlic and broken fragments of red chili pepper. A few drops of lemon juice, a few grains of salt, and the contorno becomes what it was intended to be—delicious on its own and even more delicious as a border around that plainly grilled piece of meat or fish (see recipe, this page). It decorates, enhances, and adds to the value, both visual and gustatory, of the plate.
Precede that with a cup of lemony Tomato-Rice Soup (this page) that you may have made a few weeks back and kept frozen in single-serving quantities, or a quickly made carrot or beet salad (see here); follow it with an apple, an orange, or a bowl of fresh seasonal berries, and you’ve almost fulfilled your five-a-day commitment. All that remains is to add fruit to your breakfast yogurt and make sure your lunchtime soup is a hearty, beany mixture, and you’re there. Anything else you add is, as it were, icing on the cake—the fruit-and-veg cake, that is.
Vegetables are the heart and soul of Mediterranean cooking; grains and beans may be the backbone of the diet, but vegetables are what bring delight to these frankly rather stodgy staples. And not just as an accompaniment to what sits in the center of the plate, for vegetables are often served in their own right. An artichoke, at the height of its late-winter season, is seen as a special thing, something deserving of treatment on its own. As such it may be served as a first course with nothing more to garnish it than a little vinaigrette or green sauce into which the tender ends of the leaves are dipped before scraping them, in that sexy, intimate way of artichokes, between the teeth. Fresh peas in June, the tiny tender piselli romaneschi that are raised in little market gardens around Rome, issue forth from the kitchen almost as a stew, mixed with bits of cured-pork guanciale and impregnated with olive oil, a first course so tender and juicy it must be eaten with a spoon. Or leeks in winter, fat and alabaster-white, plainly steamed and cooled to room temperature, are served, with stunning simplicity, all by themselves with a mustardy vinaigrette that points up the sweet earthiness, the ancient nature of this fundamental vegetable.
Whatever the vegetable (and I could go on and on listing vegetables that are served on their own in this manner), the treatment makes it a star, to be appreciated for precisely what it is and nothing more. But it does something more than that, something a little more spiritual and philosophical. For in the Mediterranean it is a clear if unstated principle that you don’t eat artichokes in August or fresh peas in February or leeks in June or fresh fava beans in October. Acknowledging there is a season for each of these things forces us to recognize and salute their rarity and worth. It ties us ever more deeply to the agriculture that sustains us all, that is the foundation of our life on the planet, and it gives us (or at least it gives me) a sense of humble gratitude for all that went into creating this perfection, the skill of the farmer and the cook, the richness of the earth, the rain and sun and wind that urged the plant to fruition.
In shifting from a meat-based diet to a largely plant-based diet, keep in mind that you will need to increase the quantity of vegetables in each individual serving. Because they lack fat, vegetables are less filling than meat; moreover, vegetables prepared in a Mediterranean style are so delicious that people just naturally seem to want more of them. I find, for instance, that it takes ½ pound of a vegetable like broccoli to make one serving as an accompaniment to a main-course meat or fish. If I am serving broccoli on its own or with other vegetables, I might increase that to ¾ pound, depending on whether it’s for lunch or dinner and how many courses come before or after.
One question comes up more often with vegetables than with any other food: should I buy organic? My answer to that is a resounding, but qualified yes, but with certain restrictions. Yes, because the term organic properly means that the soil in which the vegetables have grown is as healthy as it can be, and the healthiest vegetables can only come from healthy soil. It used to be said that there was no difference in nutritional values between organic and, shall we say, in-organic (or conventional) cultivation. But the jury is no longer out on that question and it is unmistakably clear now that, all things being equal, organically raised vegetables (and fruits and other things you might want to put in your mouth) are better for you overall, not just better for you because they don’t have pesticides and chemical fertilizers added to their nutritional profiles but because they are actively and positively more full of goodness. Michael Pollan, in his recent book In Defense of Food, gives some USDA statistics on the decline of nutritional values in basic foodstuffs since the widespread adoption of chemical fertilizers in the 1950s: vitamin C down 28 percent, riboflavin (aka vitamin B2) down 38 percent, calcium down 16 percent, and so on. And, although the present book is concerned with the environment only in a peripheral way, organic cultivation of our food also means healthier, greener, more pleasurable surroundings for us all, farmers and neighbors, city and country alike.
That said, however, there are many farmers and food producers who have chosen, for various reasons from the political to the economic, not to apply for organic certification—yet whose growing methods are as sustainable, if not more so, than many of the large, industrial organic producers. By scouting around farmers’ markets and farm stands, by asking smart (and not smart-ass) questions, you will find out who they are and you will want to buy and eat their products. For myself, I would far rather eat an apple harvested from a neighboring Maine farm where the farmer practices Integrated Pest Management, spraying her trees rarely and only in response to a threatened infestation—I would far rather have that apple than one raised halfway around the world by strictly organic methods and shipped by air to my local supermarket’s warehouse in New Jersey before it is further trucked to Maine. In other words, organic is fine but locally grown is also important, and, most important of all: neither course should be taken as an exclusive, rigid commitment. All those writers and bloggers who are suddenly telling us how they managed for a year (an entire year!) to eat nothing that had been grown more than 100 miles from their own back doorsteps—excuse me, but I’m really not ready yet to give up olive oil, wine, and citrus fruits, none of which can be produced successfully within a thousand miles from my Maine back doorstep.
So, yes, buy organic, but more important, buy fresh, raw, unprocessed food, as much of it as possible grown on farms not too far from your kitchen. How far is not too far? That’s up to you to decide. The best test may be the one devised by that preeminent farmer Eliot Coleman: the most important thing to know is the first name of the person from whom you buy your vegetables. Farmers’ markets, farm stands, community-supported agriculture (CSA—where you give the farmer money in the spring and she gives you vegetables throughout the growing season), and other ways of connecting solidly with local agriculture are really critical. It’s not always possible for people who live in inner cities to do this, and it often appears to be more expensive than buying conventional products, but it’s worth it in the end. Our governments, at the city, state, and federal level, should be doing a whole lot more to support healthy diets—and our public health system’s commissioners should demand it. I don’t believe it’s too late yet to reestablish the vital connections that were broken throughout the last century.
Plainly cooked vegetables are made more interesting by adding some sort of very simple sauce. See Chapter Five for some appropriate sauce recipes. The following are suggestions for combinations.
Steamed or poached artichokes, asparagus, beets, broccoli, green beans, leeks, steamed greens (spinach, chicory, broccoli rabe).
Mix up the vinaigrette (this page), adding finely chopped or minced green herbs if appropriate, and simply toss the finished vegetables in it while still warm. For best flavor, serve the vegetables hot or at room temperature but not chilled.
Steamed or poached asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, green beans, zucchini.
When the vegetables are tender, drain them and return to the pan. Add about a tablespoon of very fruity olive oil and a tablespoon of freshly grated parmigiano, feta, manchego, or other cheese for each pound of vegetables. Toss the vegetables over low heat just long enough to warm the oil and soften the cheese. With the oil and cheese you can also add sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, and minced fresh herbs if you wish.
Eggplant, tomatoes, zucchini, onions, peppers.
Slice them thickly (leave peppers whole or in halves), paint with olive oil, and grill over charcoal or wood embers until tender. Serve sprinkled with a few drops of lemon juice.
Beets, carrots, celeriac, potatoes, turnips, cut into chunks.
Steam until very tender, then put through a vegetable mill (much better than a food processor) and beat in a little yogurt and/or fruity olive oil, salt, pepper, and herbs.
Turnips, beets, cabbage, carrots, celery root.
Grate on the large holes of a grater and sauté in 1 or 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil, adding sea salt, pepper, and perhaps a little pinch of sugar or a thread of tomato sauce, if desired.
Artichokes (hearts only), mushrooms, fennel, small baby onions, carrots, very fresh zucchini.
Poach in 3 parts water to 1 part extra-virgin olive oil along with the juice of ½ lemon, 1 teaspoon whole peppercorns, 1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds, a little thyme and parsley, and a bay leaf. Cook, uncovered, until the water boils away and the vegetables are very tender; serve with their aromatic juices poured over them.
VEGETABLES AND ANTIOXIDANTS
Scientific chatter about the traditional Mediterranean diet inevitably comes around to antioxidants, which are said to be one of the most significant aspects of the diet in terms of supporting good health. Population studies have consistently shown that people who eat substantial amounts of fruits and vegetables, good sources of antioxidants, have a lower risk of cancer, heart disease, and some neurological diseases. But what are antioxidants exactly, why are they so valuable, and how can we get more of them?
The answer to the last question is quick and easy: eat more vegetables and fruits, in greater varieties, at least five servings a day, better yet nine, ten, or more, choosing from green leafy vegetables, cabbage-family vegetables, onions and garlic, and bright-colored squashes, melons, tomatoes, and citrus.
The answers to the other two questions are a little more complicated, probably more so than you really want to know, so I’ll try to be as brief and straightforward as I can.
Our bodies produce nasty molecules known as free radicals, all day every day, as the result of both natural processes, like breathing and aging, and unnatural ones, like exposure to tobacco smoke, environmental pollutants of all kinds, and even simple sunlight which, as we know, can be both health giving and harmful. Through a complex chemical process, these free radicals swimming through our metabolism initiate oxidation, and oxidation leads to cell damage that, research is beginning to show, may be linked to cancers, heart disease, and even diabetes. And the damage begins with those wretched free radicals, many of which are unavoidable.
Enter the antioxidants, which interfere with the oxidation process, by neutralizing the free radicals responsible for it. But that’s not all they do—some antioxidants actually help to repair cell damage while others may improve immune function and possibly lower the risk of infection.
Phytochemicals, vitamins, and other nutrients available from plant sources, i.e., from fruits and vegetables, and from products such as olive oil and wine that are derived from fruits and vegetables, are all antioxidants. They include familiar vitamins like C, E, and beta-carotene, but also less well-known phytonutrients such as allyl sulfides, from the onion family, isoflavones from the soy and cabbage families, and flavonoids from many different fruits and vegetables. Vegetables also provide nutrients such as copper, zinc, and iron that are not antioxidants as such but are used by the body to ensure specific biological reactions that bring about antioxidant effects.
But we don’t actually eat indole-3-carbinols or genistein or resveratrols or allyl sulfides; we eat broccoli and cabbage, garlic and onions, tomatoes, carrots, parsley, and celery. And we drink red wine. All of which are excellent sources of these inestimably valuable antioxidants. Don’t reach for the supplement bottle just yet. The best strategy for good health is to eat antioxidants in their natural state, with a diet abundant in fruits and vegetables. Fortunately, the Mediterranean diet is exactly that, and in fact, nutritional researchers have proposed that a major reason for the effectiveness of the diet is not one or two or many antioxidants, but rather the presence of so many of them all together, even some as yet undiscovered, acting as an ensemble, strengthening each other, just as a chorus of many different voices is stronger, and often more pleasing, than a single voice alone.
And when you go to market for your antioxidants, keep in mind that, according to researchers from the University of California at Davis reporting in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, organically raised tomatoes have much higher levels of flavonoids than conventionally grown tomatoes—and the case is similar for other organically raised vegetables and fruits. So eat your antioxidants—and for best results, make them organically grown at that.
All vegetables are good for you, but some are higher in antioxidants than others. If you’re concerned about getting enough healthy fruits and vegetables, think about eating as many different varieties as possible. Be sure to include some or all of the following at least four or five times a week, depending on the season: citrus fruits, melons, red grapes; tomatoes (both raw and cooked); onions, leeks, and garlic, all members of the great Allium family; leafy greens, both raw and cooked; cabbage-family vegetables (including many Asian vegetables—bok choy, Chinese broccoli—that respond well to Mediterranean treatments); nuts, especially walnuts and almonds; and deep-colored fruits—blackberries, pomegranates, and blueberries (not exactly Mediterranean but awfully good nonetheless). Some other foods are good sources of antioxidants as well, including especially red wine, tea (an important beverage in many parts of the Mediterranean), and of course that eternal friend of the Mediterranean diet, extra-virgin olive oil.
