Many ingredients are commonly used in masala chai and in Indian cookery, and many words are used to describe the experience of drinking chai. The following glossary should help you in your journey through the world of chai.

But first, a note on the languages you’ll find here: India is a country of many, many tongues, including Tamil, Assam, Bangalore, Goa, Gujarati, Punjabi, Telugu, Marathi, Urdu, and Nepali, plus the three most used in describing food: Bengali, Hindi, and Kashmiri. It is not unusual for words of one language to overlap into another, so I have opted for the phrase “generic Indian word” to describe such universal usage. These are words that everyone in India knows, whether they speak Punjabi or Urdu or anything in between. These are also the words used in most Indian spice shops and groceries here in the United States; when you want to order Indian items for yourself, these words will be clearly understood.

Sanskrit is the language used to describe aspects of the Ayurvedic system of health care so widely applied throughout India. I have retained these words as they are used by Ayurvedic practitioners throughout the world.

Ajwain or omum (Carum copticuma). Wild caraway, used to alleviate indigestion, colic, or internal gas.

Amla. A Sanskrit word referring to one of the six basic tastes in the Ayurvedic system, defined as “sour.”

Aroma. In tea tasting, this term (or the similar nose and fragrance) refers to the scent of a tea’s innate character. Dry leaves, infused leaves, and the tea liquor itself all have distinctive aromas peculiar to their region, and even to estate. Aromas are usually described by making analogies with flowers or fruits — for instance, an oolong’s aroma may be said to be peachlike.

Astringency. In tea tasting, this term refers to a flavor quality of bite or puckeriness in the liquor.

Bakey. In tea tasting, this term refers to an unpleasant taste caused by firing tea leaves at too high a temperature and thus removing too much moisture. A bakey taste is not as strong as a burned taste.

Besan. An Indian word for the chickpea flour commonly used to make savory snacks to be eaten with masala chai. Often referred to in English as gram flour.

Bite. In tea tasting, this term refers not to a taste, but to the astringent puckeriness that gives black tea its refreshing quality.

Black. In tea tasting, this term refers to the dark brownish black appearance of the fully dried leaf.

Bloom. In tea tasting, this term refers to sheen that results from careful handling, sorting, and manufacture of the tea leaves.

Body. In tea tasting, this term refers to viscosity, to the strength of the liquor combined with its weight on the tongue. Body may be “full,” “light,” and so forth.

Bright. In tea tasting, this term refers to a “bright” appearance in the tea leaf, or to a lively, sparkling taste in the tea liquor (the opposite of a dull taste).

Brisk. In tea tasting, this term refers to a flavor characteristic of liveliness, or a light, pleasurably dry taste in the mouth.

Camellia sinensis. The botanical name for the tea bush, an evergreen shrub that grows to great heights and in thirty-five different countries; India is the largest producer of teas in the entire world.

Camellia sinensis var. assamica. A variety of wild tea plant indigenous to the Assam region of India.

Cardamom. A seed used as a spice that comes from a pod. Unroasted cardamom seeds are green, and roasted are black. They add a smoky, soft taste to foods and beverages. In Indian stores, the spice is referred to as ilaichi or elaichi for green cardamom and chhoti ilaichi for black cardamom.

Chai. The Hindi word for tea. Many variations of the spelling, from cha to tcha to tay, have filtered down from the original Chinese cha to the English tea, referring to the beverage made from the leaves of the Camellia sinensis.

Chai latte. An American phrase that combines the Hindi word chai and the Italian word latte, to describe a drink of steamed milk made with chai spices, although the word latte is more commonly used to refer to a milky drink made with coffee.

Chaiwallah (chayvalas). The Hindi word for a vendor (wallah) who sells tea (chai), most typically in railroad stations throughout northern India.

Chevdo (chudra). The generic Indian word for the snack typically eaten with masala chai, a mélange of sharp spices, raisins, peanuts, and fried rice puffs. It’s also made with corn puffs.

Clean. In tea tasting, this term refers to a tea leaf free of fiber, dust, twigs, or similar particles.

Coppery. In tea tasting, this term refers to well-processed tea leaves that have a reddish overcast.

Creaming up. In tea tasting, this term refers to the bubbly residue that occasionally comes to the surface of black teas, especially Assams. It is harmless, and indeed desirable.

CTC (crush, tear, curl). A method of processing black teas in which the leaves are broken and made into the stronger tasting, higher caffeine dark teas typically found in tea bags. CTC is not necessarily a low-grade tea, but it does generally provide a darker and more intensely flavored beverage in the cup than the more delicate whole-leaf teas, whether they’re processed green, oolong, or black.

Dark. In tea tasting, this term refers to a dull or dark color in tea leaves, indicating poor quality.

Doshas. The Sanskrit word used to describe the three humors or waste products of digestion cited in the Ayurvedic system of health. These three humors are known as kapha (water or phlegm), pitta (fire or bile), and vata (air or wind). Kapha, pitta, and vata are also Sanskrit words.

Flat. In tea tasting, this term refers to a soft, rather flabby-bodied tea that lacks bite and briskness, or to a dull, old taste that indicates a lack of freshness.

Fruity. In tea tasting, this term refers to a piquant flavor (characteristic of Nilgiris, for example) that is redolent of fruity scents.

Garam masala. A specific mixture of spices. This can be used either in cooking or in spice tea. The recipes are infinite.

Ghari (khurrie). A generic Indian word (literally “made with mud”) used to refer to the little clay chai-filled cups offered by chaiwallahs at train stations. The cups are thrown away when the tea has been drunk, making this an economical and hygienic way of serving tea to the masses.

Ghee. A generic Indian word used to refer to a style of clarified butter that’s used extensively in various cuisines throughout India.

Gone off. In tea tasting, this term refers to tea that has been spoiled by improper storage or packing, or is simply past its prime and stale. If your merchant tries to sell you this, go to another merchant. Quickly.

Goodh or gur (jaggery). The generic Indian words used to describe unrefined lump sugar made from the juice of sugarcane or palm sap that is boiled until thick, poured into molds, and allowed to dry into a lumpy mass. It adds a distinctive dark brown sugar taste to chai.

Gram. An English word for the chickpea flour that is used in Indian cuisine, especially in savory snacks. The Hindi words are channa (chickpea) and atta (flour).

Harsh. In tea tasting, this term refers to a rough taste that results from underwithering and careless manufacture.

High fired. In tea tasting, this term refers to a leaf that has been overfired but not to the point of becoming burned or off tasting. It is sometimes acceptable, but hardly the premier tea sought by connoisseurs.

Kapha. The Sanskrit word for one of the three doshas of the Ayurvedic system of health. Kapha governs water or phlegm.

Kasaya. A Sanskrit word referring to one of the six basic tastes in the Ayurvedic system, defined as “astringent.”

Katur. A Sanskrit word referring to one of the six basic tastes in the Ayurvedic system, defined as “pungent.”

Khakhra. Roasted wheat-flour chips eaten as snacks in India. Methi is made with red peppers and bitter greens; masala chips are made with red peppers; plain khakhra are lightly seasoned wheat chips.

Lavana. A Sanskrit word referring to one of the six basic tastes in the Ayurvedic system, defined as “salty.”

Leafy. In tea tasting, this term refers to those teas whose leaves are large or long.

Luong. The generic Indian word for clove; it may come from the Nepali language.

Madhura. A Sanskrit word referring to one of the six basic tastes in the Ayurvedic system, defined as “sweet.”

Malty. In tea tasting, this term refers to a subtle underlying flavor. It’s often characteristic of Assam teas.

Masala. A generic Indian word for any spice blend, but used in this book to refer to a spice blend for tea that includes some or all of the following: cloves, ginger, pepper, cinnamon, and cardamom.

Masala chai. The generic Indian phrase used to describe an Indian tea drink made with spices, or with spices and milk.

Mazedar chai. The generic Indian phrase for “tea that is fun to drink,” now archaic and rarely used. Mazedar is an adjective that means “fun.”

Muscatel. In tea tasting, this term refers to a grapy or winy taste characteristic of Darjeeling teas. Jungpana is the most sought-after “muscatel” Darjeeling.

Musty. In tea tasting, this term refers to a moldy smell that results from poor storage or packing. If you smell mustiness in any tea except a pu-erh, run to another merchant. Pu-erhs, however, are supposed to smell musty, even moldy, which reflects the “friendly” bacteria inherent in them.

Mutkah. The Hindi word for “mud.” The term is sometimes used in Bombay to refer to a clay pitcher.

Namkiin. The generic Indian word used to describe spicy, crunchy snacks made in hundreds and hundreds of styles, but generally with gram or besan (chickpea) or wheat flour, and sometimes with cashews or peanuts. They are frequently fried or roasted. Their tang and spiciness go well with creamy, frothy chai drinks.

Nan. A spicy or plain fried bread, thin and crisp, common in Indian cuisine; its shape resembles that of a tortilla, but incorporates Indian spices and wheat flour.

Pai cha. The Chinese phrase for “white tea.” Still a rarity in India, white tea requires plucking only the tender buds of the tea bush and lightly withering them; no oxidation takes place at all.

Papdi gathiya. Chips made from gram or besan (chickpea) flour and shaped into wavy pieces. These snacks are typically eaten with spicy masala chai and are hugely popular throughout India.

Peak. In tea tasting, this term refers to the high point of the tasting experience when, some instants after the liquor enters your mouth, its body, flavor, and astringency make themselves fully felt. Greens and oolongs do not peak, but stand immediately and fully revealed.

Pitta. The Sanskrit word for one of the three humors of the Ayurvedic system of health. Pitta governs fire or bile.

Ragged. In tea tasting, this term refers to badly manufactured tea that is uneven.

Self-drinking. In tea tasting, this term refers to any tea with sufficient aroma, flavor, body, and color to stand alone and in no need of blending for improvement.

Sev. Perhaps the best-known snack throughout India, made from besan or gram flour.

Soft. In tea tasting, this term refers to a flavor quality that is the opposite of brisk. Inefficient firing causes this lack of liveliness and flat taste.

Stalk and fiber. These plant residues are generally included in lower-grade teas but should be at a minimum in higher grades. They reflect sloppy or indifferent sorting.

Stewed. In tea tasting, this term refers to oversteeped tea leaves that have turned bitter; it can also refer to leaves that have been poorly fired at low temperatures and with insufficient airflow, resulting in a brew with a bitter taste.

Tarry. In tea tasting, this term refers to a smoky aroma (found in Lapsang Souchong or some Russian Caravan–style teas, for instance) that derives from being smoked over wood or charcoal.

Thick. In tea tasting, this term refers to a brew with rich color, taste, and strength.

Thin. In tea tasting, this term refers to a tea that lacks body and/or color; one that tastes more watery than flavorful.

Tip. Literally, the tip of the youngest tea leaves. The presence of tips on tea leaves is a sign of good picking. Tip can appear to be golden or silvery.

Tippy. In tea tasting, this term refers to tea leaves that have a generous amount of silvery or golden tip, or budding leaf.

Tisane. An herbal infusion, usually made with flowers, weeds, or herbs. A chamomile “tea” is therefore not a tea, but an herbal infusion or tisane.

Titka. A Sanskrit word referring to one of the six basic tastes in the Ayurvedic system, defined as “bitter.”

Vata. The Sanskrit word for one of the three humors of the Ayurvedic system of health. Vata governs air or wind.

Well twisted. In tea tasting, this term refers to fully withered tea leaf that has been tightly rolled lengthwise.

Winy. In tea tasting, this term usually refers to a mellow quality that fine Darjeelings (or Keemuns) acquire with six months to a year or more of aging. More rarely, the term is used as a negative descriptive for overdried tea.

Wiry. In tea tasting, this term refers to stylish, thin whole tea leaves, quite often O.P. (orange pekoe) grade.

Portrait of a Lady

Objects are lessons; from bowls, hairpins, brooches,

you learn of forgotten lives. The stories say

my grandmother was a fever tree;

two birds sat on her branches, one pecking

at a grape, the other singing an aria.

What history’s bookkeepers do not show

is the tremor down the spine she felt,

the tendril of blood that coiled in her nose

when the whistle of a train announced

her husband’s return from a tour of duty.

In the stories, she’s an actor, a pilgrim;

shadow-boxing with a thunderstorm,

she slips through scrubbed floors

and ember beds. She leaves me

a loaf of shortbread in the oven,

a page of couplets in a script I cannot read

and wrapped in a peel of green appleskin,

a tea cup glazed with a Dutch windmill,

the last one of the set.

The urchin-cut waif in the vignette above

is the child she was. Voyeur, clairvoyante, [sic]

she stares in at windows, her head a gourd

hollowed by the age she ever reached

in life, her hair a silver floss.

Objects are lessons; the light seeps

through the slats, sets off a shimmer

on her lace. She’s crocheted the evening

and its creatures: the silken thread

that she pulls from her pattern

knots tight around my neck.

— Ranjit Hoskote

Glossary

Portrait of a Lady