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Slow-cooked Chinese spiced belly of pork

Faggots

Pork knuckles cooked in a chilli broth

Borscht beef casserole – Valentine’s beef

Slow-braised ox cheek in stout

Blanquette of veal

Veal kidneys in a rich mustard sauce

Classic osso buco with gremolata

Risotto Milanese

Malay lamb

Scotch broth

Spent hen or yard cockerel casserole

Bag-poached Bresse chicken with Madeira sauce

Chicken & vegetable broth

Turkey & mango curry

Casseroles, stews & pan cooking

Suitable cuts for casseroles, stews and braises

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Beef

Shin

Tail

Flank

Chuck

Clod & sticking

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Pork

Shoulder

Hand & spring

Neck

Belly

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Lamb

Shoulder

Neck

Breast

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Poultry and Game

Whole

Jointed

Leg

Thigh

Rules for stewing

1. Choose the right sort of cut. A piece of lean meat will make a poor casserole, so make sure you buy something robust with some marbling of fat. Don’t be tempted to trim off excess fat before slow-cooking; it will render into the finished dish, giving body and flavour. If you’re concerned about the effects on your waistline, have a salad for lunch the next day.

2. Keep the meat in fairly big chunks, around 5cm (2in) cubes, or else cook as a whole piece. This helps retain succulence, as smaller pieces will dry out much faster.

3. Brown the meat beforehand in a little oil, either at a high temperature in the oven or in a hot frying pan. Meat should be browned very quickly so that the inside remains pink while the outside develops a crust; it is the crust that really makes the flavour of the finished dish.

4. Slow cook in the oven rather than on the hob, as the meat cooks much more evenly. Use a deep baking dish that allows the meat to be spread out in an even, closely packed layer. Add some vegetables – always an onion or two – some herbs, a little stock and seasoning if required and cook at a very low temperature no more than 140°C/225°F/gas mark 1 until tender.

Slow-cooked Chinese spiced belly of pork

  1. Place the pork in a dish in a single layer. Add the five-spice, ginger, star anise, soy sauce, fish sauce, garlic, cinnamon stick and stock and turn to coat. Cover and place in the fridge for 24 hours, turning frequently.
  2. Heat 100ml (3½fl oz) of water in a pan large enough to hold the pork in a single layer. Add the meat, skin side down, bring to the boil, then cover with a lid and cook over the lowest possible heat for 50 minutes.
  3. Turn the pork and add enough water to come halfway up the meat. Cover again and cook very gently for another 50 minutes, adding a little more liquid if necessary.
  4. Before serving, sprinkle with the chopped herbs and serve with stir-fried vegetables.

Serves 8
Takes 2 hours, plus overnight marinating

While belly of pork is delicious when its skin is crisp and crunchy, it’s also fantastic when gelatinous and sticky – as it is in this recipe.

Faggots

  1. Put all the ingredients except the caul fat, onions, lard and stock in a bowl and mix. Form into balls about 5cm (2in) in diameter, and wrap each in a sheet of caul fat.
  2. Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2. Fry the onions in the fat until soft. Set aside and brown the faggots in the pan.
  3. Place the faggots and onions in a baking dish, pour in stock to come halfway up the faggots. Cook in the oven for 1–1½ hours.

Serves 4
Takes 2 hours

Faggots are an economical and savoury dish. Order the caul fat in advance from your butcher.

Pork knuckles cooked in a chilli broth

  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.
  2. Put the chillies, garlic and oil in an ovenproof pan and sauté until just golden. Add the pork knuckles and cook until brown all over.
  3. Add the ginger, vinegar, soy sauce, sugar and enough stock to almost cover the knuckles. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid and transfer to the oven for 1 hour. Turn the hocks, reduce the heat to 170°C/325°F/gas mark 3 and cook for a further 2 hours, turning the hocks twice.
  4. Before serving, use a metal spoon to skim off any excess fat floating on the surface of the stock. Add the chopped coriander and serve in bowls with steamed rice and cabbage.

Serves 2–4
Takes 3½ hours

Here’s a truly rich and delicious way of cooking pork. Forget about crispy skin – this is all about gently cooking the hocks so that the skin breaks down to a soft, velvety texture. Of course, eating the skin is not to everybody’s liking, so in that case, simply peel it back and eat just the tasty gems of tender hock meat underneath.

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Borscht beef casserole – Valentine’s beef

  1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
  2. Place the beef and caraway seeds in a roasting tin with half the olive oil and toss to coat.
  3. Place the onions, beetroot and garlic in another roasting tin, add the remaining oil and toss well.
  4. Place both tins in the oven for 20–30 minutes, until browned, then remove and reduce the temperature to 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2.
  5. Add the flour to the meat and mix well. Stir in the beef stock, then add the roasted vegetables, tomato purée, seasoning, mixed herbs and orange zest and juice. Stir well, adding a little more stock if needed to keep the meat submerged (this depends on the size of the roasting tin).
  6. Cover with foil and cook in the oven for 3 hours, checking every hour and adding more stock if necessary. Serve topped with the soured cream and chopped chives.

Serves 6
Takes 4 hours

The colour of this casserole is just amazing – shades of mahogany and deepest red. When working on this recipe in February, I decided to serve it to friends who came to supper on the 14th, so I named it Valentine’s beef. Forget the red roses – just serve this dish to warm the heart of anyone who tastes it. Mashed potatoes make the ideal accompaniment.

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Slow-braised ox cheek in stout

  1. Trim the cheeks of any sinew or fat, then cut into quarters. Place in a glass bowl with the stout and marinate in the fridge for 24 hours.
  2. Preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/gas mark 3.
  3. Remove the cheeks from the marinade, reserving the beer, and pat dry with kitchen paper. Place in an ovenproof pan with the oil and fry until brown. Set the cheeks aside and fry the onions and garlic for 4 minutes.
  4. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the flour. Slowly pour in the marinade liquid and stock, return to the heat and bring to a simmer. Add the chilli, tomato purée, bay leaf, Worcestershire sauce, seasoning and finally the cheeks. Depending on the size of your pan, you might need to add more liquid, as the beef and vegetables should be covered, so top up with water if necessary.
  5. Cover the pan with a cartouche (circle of baking parchment or greaseproof paper), put a lid over it and gently cook in the oven for 4¼ hours. Check the pan from time to time, giving it a stir and adding more liquid if needed.
  6. When the beef has cooked, peel and cut the carrots and potatoes into equal-sized pieces about 5cm (2in), unless you are using baby carrots. Stir them into the pan and cover again with a cartouche and the lid. Return to the oven for a further 45 minutes. Serve in bowls with Creamy mashed peas.

Serves 8–10
Takes 5½ hours, plus overnight marinating

You might need to order the ox cheeks from your butcher, but it’s worth doing so because I’m sure you will enjoy the unctuous richness of this dish. Do not try to rush it, as the cheek is a well-worked muscle and needs long, gentle cooking.

Blanquette of veal

  1. Trim the veal of any excess fat or sinew and place in a medium to large pan with the studded onion, carrots, leek, celery and bouquet garni. Add the stock (there should be enough to cover everything) and bring to the boil. Skim the top of the liquid carefully, then reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour.
  2. Add the baby onions and mushrooms and simmer for a further 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside for 20 minutes.
  3. Discard the studded onion, vegetable chunks and bouquet garni. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat, baby onions and mushrooms to an ovenproof serving dish, cover and keep warm.
  4. Return the pan of stock to the heat and boil until it has reduced to about 600ml (1 pint). Add seasoning and all but a tablespoon of the cream, then bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes, until the mixture has thickened slightly and become a sauce. Remove from the heat.
  5. Whisk the remaining cream with the egg yolks, then whisk into the sauce off the heat. Place the sauce on a very low heat and warm until just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Do not boil or the eggs will scramble and give the sauce a gritty appearance.
  6. Return the veal and reserved vegetables to the sauce along with the chopped parsley. Mix gently and serve with long-grain rice and spinach.

Serves 6
Takes 2¾ hours

This is a classic white casserole, where the meat is cooked so gently in butter that it does not brown. The vegetables are cut into large chunks as these are easier to extract later.

Veal kidneys in a rich mustard sauce

  1. Trim the kidneys of any fat or skin, cut in half and remove the central sinewy bits.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan, add the butter and, when foaming, add the kidneys. Cook for 2–3 minutes, then turn and cook for another 2–3 minutes. Remove from the pan and keep warm.
  3. Drain all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the pan, add the shallot and sauté for 2 minutes, until soft.
  4. Pour in the wine and stock and boil rapidly until reduced by half. Add the mustard and stir thoroughly.
  5. To serve, slice the kidneys thinly, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then place on hot toast with the sauce spooned over.

Serves 4
Takes 20 minutes

Veal kidneys are superb and need very little cooking. Ideally, they should be pink in the middle, but if that is not to your liking, cook for a little longer, taking care not to overcook them or they will be tough.

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Classic osso buco with gremolata

  1. Preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/gas mark 3.
  2. Dredge the shins in the seasoned flour, coating them all over. Heat the olive oil in a large, flameproof casserole dish, then brown the shins in it, one side at a time. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
  3. Add the onions, garlic, carrot and celery to the casserole dish and sauté gently until soft. Sprinkle in any leftover seasoned flour and mix well. Remove from the heat, slowly stir in the wine, then return to the heat and simmer until you have a rich sauce.
  4. Return the shins to the pan and add the tomatoes, stock, bay leaf and seasoning. The liquid should just cover the meat – if not, add a little extra stock if needed. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and cook in the oven for 3 hours.
  5. Just before serving, mix all the gremolata, ingredients together. Spoon the osso buco onto deep plates and top each serving with a spoonful of gremolata, offering the rest at the table.

Serves 4
Takes 4¼ hours

As we care about animal welfare at The Ginger Pig, we make this dish with veau sous la mère (veal under the mother), which means the calf has lived in a field with its mother and been fed naturally on her milk. The favoured breeds are Limousin and Belgian Blue as they put weight on quickly, and the calves are usually slaughtered at five or six months old (otherwise they are known as bullocks). The meat yielded from these animals is pink and very similar to lamb.

If you do not want to eat veal, this dish can also be made with beef shin, but it delivers a totally different flavour and a darker result. Although it’s delicious, I call it ‘poor man’s osso buco’. Serve with creamy mashed potatoes to mop up all the tasty juices, or try it with Risotto Milanese.

If you ever have any leftover gremolata from your osso buco, serve it tossed through a little pasta with a dash of olive oil for a light and zesty lunch dish.

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Risotto Milanese

  1. Place the stock in a pan and bring to a gentle simmer.
  2. Melt 50g (2oz) of the butter in a large frying pan, add the olive oil, then gently sauté the onions for 5 minutes.
  3. Pour the rice into the pan and stir well to coat with the oil. Add just enough hot stock to cover the rice, stir well and simmer gently, stirring frequently. When most of the stock has been absorbed, add the same amount again, along with the saffron, and continue simmering and stirring until it has been absorbed.
  4. Continue adding stock in this way until it has all been used; this will take about 15 minutes.
  5. Finally, add the vermouth, most of the Parmesan, reserving a little for finishing off, the remaining butter and some seasoning. Mix well and serve topped with a scattering of Parmesan.

Serves 4
Takes 40 minutes

If you want a dish to complement Osso buco, serve this classic risotto from northern Italy. It is beautifully flavoured, and also wonderful served on its own, topped with just a handful of peppery rocket leaves.

Malay lamb

  1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the lemongrass, garlic, chilli, ginger and onions and cook on a low to medium heat for 15 minutes, until soft.
  2. Add the lamb and cook until sealed. Mix in the curry powder, stir in the stock, season, then cover and cook gently for 3 hours, stirring frequently. When cooked, the sauce should coat the back of a spoon; if not, just increase the heat and reduce the liquid.
  3. Stir the coriander through the dish before serving with lime wedges and yoghurt.

Serves 4
Takes 3¾ hours

Full of rich, spicy flavour, this dish is also economical because it can be made with any cut of meat.

The slow cooking renders even the cheapest cut meltingly tender, so simply adjust the cooking time to suit. Mutton, if available, is a great alternative to lamb, and is what would normally be used in a Malayan kitchen.

Scotch broth

  1. Put the meat in a pan, add 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water and bring to the boil. Skim off any scum, then cover and simmer for 2 hours.
  2. Add the vegetables, pearl barley and seasoning. Tie the parsley stalks together and tie the end of string to the saucepan handle. Simmer for a further hour.
  3. Before serving, discard the parsley stalks and stir the chopped leaves into the soup. Check the seasoning and serve.

Serves 4
Takes 3½ hours

Here’s a delicious and hearty soup that is a marriage of subtle flavours.

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Spent hen or yard cockerel casserole

  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.
  2. Heat half the oil in a flameproof casserole dish and fry the chicken in batches, setting them aside once they have browned. Add the remaining oil to the pan and fry the mushrooms, onions, bacon and garlic for 3 minutes on a medium heat.
  3. Take the pan off the heat, sprinkle in the flour and mix with the oil. Slowly add the wine and stock, blending with the flour mixture, then return to the heat and gently bring to a simmer, stirring. Add the mustard, herbs and seasoning. Place the 4 carcass pieces at the bottom of the casserole dish, then add the remaining chicken pieces. Place a lid on the dish and cook in the oven – 1 hour for a senior fowl, and 30 minutes for a younger bird until the chicken pieces are cooked through.
  4. Meanwhile, make the topping. Place the flour, salt, suet and cheese in a large bowl and mix until evenly blended. Pour in the milk, mixing until a dough forms. Lightly flour a work surface and roll out the dough to a thickness of 1.5cm (¾in). Using a 6cm (2½in) pastry cutter or tumbler, stamp out 12 rounds, then brush the top of them with milk.
  5. Remove the casserole dish from the oven and transfer the chicken and sauce to a large ovenproof baking dish (about 30 x 22 x 10cm/12 x 9 x 4in). If there is too much sauce to fit, keep it warm and serve at the table in a jug. Arrange the dough rounds on top of the chicken mixture, then return to the oven for 30 minutes, until the scones are cooked.

Serves 6–8
Takes 2 hours 20 minutes

A smallholder often has birds that are no longer producing eggs, or a cockerel that is no longer productive, so it’s time for the pot. As these are older birds, they need longer cooking than young ones, but they will have a richer flavour and denser texture. If you do not have a senior chicken to hand, you can still make this dish with a young bird, but reduce the cooking times as directed. Ask your butcher to joint the bird as follows: two lower legs, two thighs, breast cut into four and remaining carcass cut into four.

Bag-poached Bresse chicken with Madeira sauce

  1. Remove the wishbone from the bird. To do this, cut around the outside of it with a small knife, then bend it back and lift out. Cut off the wings.
  2. Carefully wriggle your fingers under the skin covering the breast and legs to make a space, then place the truffle slices between the skin and flesh. Tie the legs together to keep the bird in a good shape. Weigh the bird and calculate the cooking time, allowing 25 minutes per 500g (1lb 2oz) at a very gentle poach.
  3. Place the chicken in a strong plastic bag, then add the stock, Madeira and some seasoning. Tie a knot in the bag, and for extra security tie with string too.
  4. Place the bag in a large saucepan of barely simmering water. Cover and cook for 1¾ hours, checking every 15 minutes and turning the chicken to ensure even cooking.
  5. Meanwhile, sauté the shallots in the oil until just soft. Add the chicken feet, neck, wings, wishbone and giblets, cover with water and simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain the stock, then boil the liquid to reduce by half. Add the cream and simmer until thick, about 5 minutes.
  6. When the chicken is cooked through, transfer it from the bag to a board and pour the cooking juices into a jug. Carve the chicken and serve it on a bed of sautéed mixed vegetables. Just before serving, pour some of the cooking juices over it followed by the rich cream sauce.

Serves 4–6
Takes 1 hour 40 minutes

This is a traditional French dish that calls for the chicken to be cooked in a pig’s bladder, but I have substituted a strong plastic bag, which works just as well. The idea is to cook sous vide (in a vacuum) so that all the flavour is locked in. The result is a very delicate and balanced dish.

Poulet de Bresse is a high-quality bird sold complete, so get your butcher to draw it for you, but keep the neck, giblets and feet to make the stock.

Poulet de Bresse

Poulet de Bresse is considered to be the Rolls-Royce of chickens. Originating from the Rhône-Alpes region of France, they are reared to exacting standards on small farms, and are protected by law through their AOC (Appellation d’origine controlée) status, which they have held since 1957. In fact, this breed of chicken was the first livestock to receive such protection and honour.

Poulet de Bresse is favoured for its gamey depth of flavour, the fine texture of its meat and the even layer of fat that serves to keep the flesh moist during cooking. Chicken this good needs to be cooked simply as it would be a sin to disguise its superior flavour.

The Ginger Pig has been working hard to produce its own 100-day-old chickens with the Botterill family of Lings Farm on the Belvoir Estate in Leicestershire. Our chickens are a cross between a Cornish game cockerel and Sussex (Dorking) hen, and we believe they compete favourably with any other famous and recognized chicken breeds that our friends in France may be producing.

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Chicken & vegetable broth

  1. Place the chicken legs and stock in a saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer for 25 minutes until the chicken is cooked through. Lift out the chicken legs and, when cool enough to handle, remove and discard the skin. Flake off the meat and roughly chop.
  2. Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onion, garlic, leeks and carrots and sauté gently for 8 minutes without browning.
  3. Remove the pan from the heat, sprinkle in the flour and mix well. Slowly add the stock, stirring as you do so, then return the pan to the heat and bring to a simmer. Add the potatoes, chicken and seasoning and simmer for 15 minutes.
  4. Cut the corn kernels off the cobs, add to the soup and cook for 8 minutes until tender. Finally, stir in the parsley and serve.

Serves 6
Takes 1½ hours

A hearty soup that is good enough to serve as a main meal with lots of warm bread.

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Turkey & mango curry

  1. Put the garlic, onions, chillies, lemongrass and ginger in a large pan with the oil and sweat for 5 minutes. Add the turkey meat, cumin and ground coriander and mix well.
  2. Pour in the coconut cream, add 300ml (½ pint) of the stock and bring to a gentle boil for 5 minutes. Add the remaining stock and simmer for 10 minutes.
  3. Chop the mango flesh into small pieces and add to the pan along with some seasoning and cook for a further 2 minutes. Just before serving, stir in the coriander.

Serves 6
Takes 30 minutes

Although it’s not exactly British farmhouse fare, I’ve included this dish because I think it’s time to introduce some global flavours to the farmhouse table. All the ingredients are available in the UK, and lamb, chicken or beef can be used instead of turkey if you wish.