1 Mile or Kilometre Zero, from which the length of the Danube is measured: the lighthouse at Sulina.
2 Leaving Sulina with Adrian Oprisan, towards Crisan and Karaorman.
3 In the heart of the Danube delta, on the way to harvest reeds near Crisan – from Adrian Oprisan's boat.
4 Aunty Nicolina was not at home, but Uncle Simion was. ‘I never could stand fish.’ Outside their house in Sulina.
5 The Glykon in the National History and Archaeology Museum at Constanța: the head of a lamb, the ears of a man, body of a serpent, and the tail of a lion – like the Danube.
6 Pontus, the god of the Black Sea, rising out of the seaweed, clasping the rudder of a ship. From the Museum at Constanța.
7 The Kneeling Oak at Karaorman: keeping the Turks safely in the ground – or a place for donkeys to scratch their backs.
8 Alexander's grandmother in Karaorman: preparing a bucketful of carp to last Alexander a week at university in Tulcea.
9 The sweet waters of the Danube mingle with the Black Sea at the southern mouth of the Danube near Sfântu Gheorghe.
10 Babadag – Recep Lupu's wife and mother-in-law. ‘In the Pentecostalist church, you can marry who you wish!’
11 Gypsy girl in Babadag. ‘And anyway,’ Regina adds, ‘if we stayed at school, the boys would steal us.’
12 Mitya Alexi, fisherman in Ghindărești: ‘In my household, money is like the Danube. It flows through our fingers!’
13 Nikita Ivan, fisherman in Ghindărești: unravelling a net the colour of his full beard.
14 Momi Kolev and a camel called Emir, Koloseum Circus, Ruse, Bulgaria. ‘In Bulgaria…we enjoy life!’
15 Air pollution on the Romanian shore. A storm gathers over Nikopol in Bulgaria, site of the defeat of the last Crusade in 1386.
16 The Iron Gates from the water, looking upstream towards the Church Above the Water, which replaced the Church Beneath the Water.
17 Danube dawn at Eselnița, looking downstream towards the lost island of Ada Kaleh, across the storage lake formed by the Iron Gates dam.
18 Siege damage on the water tower at Vukovar: The doves of peace have taken over Vukovar's war monument.
19 Wetlands at Kopački Rit. ‘They [hunters] have to realise that now they have to move over, and make way for the nature conservers’: Tibor Mikuska.
20 The monument to the Soviet liberators at Batina, Croatia. The Red Army crosses the Danube in November 1944, under the onslaught of German artillery.
21 ‘The best flood protection is a wide floodplain, to absorb the rising waters’: snails waiting for the all-clear, after the floodwaters fell, Kopački Rit.
22 ‘The flood waters are already climbing the steps of the Hungarian Parliament, and are expected to peak in the capital on Sunday night.’ Budapest, June 2013.
23 The Danube bend in Hungary from the stern of the Tatabánya, March 2010. Just seven months later, she was wrecked off the Turkish coast.
24 At the helm of the Tatabánya, heading upriver with the mainland on the left, Szentendre Island on the right.
25 ‘The best job in the world.’ Hermann Spannraft at the wheel of the cable ferry, Ottensheim, Austria.
26 ‘I haven't eaten salmon for ten years' Josef Fischer and his fish, Rossatz, Austria. A love affair with a threatened species.
27 ‘I would like to look after people,’ says Hava, ‘because I have been through so much myself. I know how much help people need.’ The Atsaeva family in Grein, Austria.
28 Hi-tech from the nineteenth century. The cable ferry at Ottensheim, one of only four left on the Danube. The ferry uses no power other than the current of the river.
29 The Inn and the Danube meet at Passau. The ‘white gold’ of salt was exchanged for the yellow- orange gold of wheat.
30 The tailor of Ulm: The Danube dilutes his homesickness. ‘I'm glad that I live so close to a river which flows all the way to the Black Sea.’
31 The youth of Ulm. Geraldine, Erdem and Theresa. Three kids, just starting out. An image of a harmonious, modern Germany.
32 Mother Baar shows the young Danube the way to the Black Sea. The Baar is a plateau in south-western Germany, bordering the Black Forest.