Spaghetti Aglio-Olio-Peperoncino

Spagetti with Garlic, Oil, and Hot Chilies

The simplest, easiest, most basic pasta recipe imaginable, this is for when hunger strikes and there’s “nothing in the house to eat”—because there’s always spaghetti, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, and a dried hot red chili pepper or two. But the real beauty is this: The “sauce,” such as it is, can be whipped together in the time it takes the pasta to cook.

The technique we describe is one widely used in Italy called saltare in padella, meaning “sautéed in the pan.” The pasta is cooked until not quite done, then drained and finished in the sauce, so it absorbs flavors from the sauce and the sauce envelops the pasta. Very often, as here, a ladleful of pasta cooking water is also added to help the flavors come together.

SERVES 4 TO 6

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

About 1 pound (500 grams) spaghetti, linguine, vermicelli, or other long, thin pasta

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 plump garlic cloves, minced

1 small dried hot red chili, crumbled, or crushed red pepper flakes to taste

¾ cup minced flat-leaf parsley (optional)

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Following the directions here, add salt and the pasta and cook, checking the package recommendations for time.

While the pasta cooks, heat the oil over medium-low heat in a saucepan large enough to hold all the pasta once it has been drained. Add the garlic and cook very gently just until it softens and starts to turn golden—do not let it brown. Add the chili and parsley (if using), along with a ladleful of starchy pasta water. Turn the heat up a notch and let the sauce simmer vigorously for about 5 minutes.

When the pasta is almost done, drain and turn immediately into the pan, mixing the pasta together with the sauce. Let simmer for a minute or two, then serve immediately with more salt and pepper.