Linguine from a Neapolitan Pantry
Ingredients tell the story of this recipe, which is an old Neapolitan favorite, made with what’s available in every dispensa, or pantry cupboard, in that crowded town, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Ingredients as important as these should be carefully selected to be sure you’re using only the very best. Check here for more information.
Black olives, for instance: Use naturally cured olives, perhaps small Gaeta olives, and be sure to take the pits out. If you can’t find Gaetas, use wrinkled, salt-cured Moroccan or French olives (sometimes called oil-cured olives, though they’re not actually cured in oil at all). And anchovies, for another instance: We love the elusive meaty, salty, umami flavor anchovies give to just about anything they’re added to. They’re a key component to this dish, so use a lot or a little, depending on your own preference, but don’t leave them out.
SERVES 6
6 to 8 oil-packed anchovy fillets
2 tablespoons salt-packed capers
1 cup pitted black olives, preferably Gaeta
Sea salt, for the pasta
About 1 pound (500 grams) linguine, vermicelli, spaghetti, or other long, thin pasta
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, chopped
½ cup minced flat-leaf parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
Chop the anchovy fillets into small pieces. Rinse the capers thoroughly to rid them of salt, then chop coarsely. Coarsely chop the pitted olives.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt and the pasta and cook following the directions here, checking the package recommendations for time. Linguine will take 10 to 12 minutes, thinner pasta a little less—but follow the package directions.
While the pasta is cooking, combine the oil and garlic in a pan over low heat and cook gently until the garlic softens and just begins to turn golden. Do not let it brown. Add the capers and olives with a ladleful of boiling pasta water. Add the parsley, with a little more water if it seems necessary, along with several grinds of pepper. Let the mixture cook at a bare simmer, then, just before the pasta is done, add the anchovy bits and mix well, pressing with a fork to dissolve the anchovies into the sauce.
As soon as the pasta is done, drain and turn it into a warm bowl. Immediately add the sauce and turn to mix well. Serve immediately.